Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 15
2002 Volume 01 : Number
898
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Jul 2002 11:34:35 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BBQ brake pads
FWIW --- I tried the BBQ on one set of pads a year or so
ago and found
that when finished the surface was very uneven, as much as
1/16" or
more. I sanded them down to provide a flat surface although I'm sure
that
a few laps would have accomplished the same thing.
There have
been claims of extended life as a result of barbequing but I
find that hard
to believe --- If Porterfield could get extended use from pads
by heat
cycling them I'm sure they would do it. A BBQ may get the pads
up to 600º or
700º while a 20 minute track session may get them up to
1000º. I think it
more a matter of maybe doing some prep work in advance
and making a stink at
home rather than at the track. The last few times I've
done the bedding on
the way to the track on some open stretches of road.
As to 7000 rpm in
2nd being foolish I disagree --- I spend a lot of my track
time at or near
redline and the only side effect is to clear up my lifter tick.
I also run a
shift light [ set at 6K ] to remind me in case I'm in the heat
of
battle.
Jim
Berry
==========================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Cc: "Jim Matthews"
<
jim@the-matthews.com>
Sent:
Sunday, July 14, 2002 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: BBQ brake
pads
> > Should Porterfield R4 and/or R4S brake pads be BBQed
before use? The coals
> are hot! :-)
> > Jim Matthews
- Yorkshire, England
> ------------------------------>
>
Absolutely! But you don't want them so close to the coals that you
ignite
> them! You want to bake them at high heat to "outgas"
them. Yes, they will
> still smoke and stink a lot - you'll probably
piss off a few neighbors. :-)
> But it makes all the difference in
the world at the track... For one thing,
> they don't have to warm
up as much to work at optimum, as all brakes do. And
> they won't
stink as much after a few hard stops (and make you think you broke
>
something). We didn't BBQ the previous set (R4S), and at the track we
could
> see them smoking and stinking all over the place, especially when
we finished
> the first few runs and came back to the pits. Fiercely
AWful smell... But we
> BBQ'd this most recent set and they stopped
tight right from the first run.
> No smoke, no smell, no muss, no fuss, no
bother... :-)
>
> Do it! Full instructions in the FAQ
pages:
>
www.Team3S.com/FAQbrakeBBQ.htm>
>
Best,
> Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 12:12:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BBQ brake pads
Nope..they dont need to gas before
use.
Just bed in properly and cool down.
Procedure here:
http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=201886#201886On
Sun, 14 Jul 2002, Jim Matthews wrote:
> Should Porterfield R4 and/or
R4S brake pads be BBQed before use? The
> coals are hot!
:-)
>
> - --
> Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
>
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super
Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830
Battery
> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff=
SPHvy)
> Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,
354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 12:14:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BBQ brake pads
True, but PF says youre not hurting anything
by cooking them, but at the
same time youre not solving anything.
On
Sun, 14 Jul 2002, Bob Forrest wrote:
> > Should Porterfield R4
and/or R4S brake pads be BBQed before use? The coals
> are
hot! :-)
> > Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
>
------------------------------>
>
> Absolutely! But you
don't want them so close to the coals that you ignite
> them! You
want to bake them at high heat to "outgas" them. Yes, they will
>
still smoke and stink a lot - you'll probably piss off a few neighbors.
:-)
> But it makes all the difference in the world at the track...
For one thing,
> they don't have to warm up as much to work at optimum, as
all brakes do. And
> they won't stink as much after a few hard stops
(and make you think you broke
> something). We didn't BBQ the
previous set (R4S), and at the track we could
> see them smoking and
stinking all over the place, especially when we finished
> the first few
runs and came back to the pits. Fiercely AWful smell... But
we
> BBQ'd this most recent set and they stopped tight right from the
first run.
> No smoke, no smell, no muss, no fuss, no bother...
:-)
>
> Do it! Full instructions in the FAQ pages:
>
www.Team3S.com/FAQbrakeBBQ.htm>
> Best,
> Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 12:20:31
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BBQ brake pads
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
> FWIW --- I
tried the BBQ on one set of pads a year or so ago and found that
when
finished the surface was very uneven, as much as 1/16" or more. I sanded
them
down to provide a flat surface although I'm sure that a few laps would
have
accomplished the same thing.
- ----------------------------->
That's
exactly the point! You *can* do it at the track and suffer the
smell
and partial brake capacity as the brakes get rid of the impurities OR
you can
do it in advance and not have to make the first couple of runs
choking on
brake smoke. Perhaps you didn't do a *g-r-a-d-u-a-l* warmup
and cooldown when
you did the BBQ? As I pointed out to Jim M, you want
to bake them at high
temperature, not put them over the hottest part of the
coals to burn. Then
after an hour or so, turn off the heat and leave
them in the BBQ after it's
off (as the instructions point out) to cool down
slowly (I leave mine
overnight). Fast heating or cooling would no doubt
warp the pads and make
them uneven. And I get max performance out of
new brakes even on their first
track run with BBQ-ing - I don't get that when
I don't BBQ. I get fade and
smoke until they are outgassed, then by
maybe the 3rd run I get max
performance...
> There have been claims
of extended life as a result of barbequing but I find
that hard to believe
--- If Porterfield could get extended use from pads by
heat cycling them I'm
sure they would do it. A BBQ may get the pads up to 600º
or 700º while a 20
minute track session may get them up to 1000º. I think it
more a matter of
maybe doing some prep work in advance and making a stink at
home rather than
at the track. The last few times I've
done the bedding on the way to
the track on some open stretches of road.
-
----------------------------->
Why would PF want them to last
longer? Why not let us waste material and
weaken the pads (so we have
to replace them sooner) with rapid heating and
cooling at the track?
When I BBQ, I don't have to bed the brakes - they
aren't uneven and they work
perfectly first time out. You should try a SLOW
heatup/cooldown
sequence in the BBQ and see if you feel differently. For me,
BBQing is
much better, and the brakes seem to last longer. I'm copying this
post
to Andie Lin (formerly at Carbotech, now with his own company) - perhaps
he
can do a test for us with his new pads, with- and without a BBQ procedure.
He
runs his NSX at the track and can give us butt dyno data, plus he has
the
testing equipment to either debunk a myth or prove the validity of
BBQ-ing
brake pads once and for all.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 13:55:33
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Track Overheating
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken
Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
-
----------snip----------->
When I blew my engine last year at Sears Point,
I was at full throttle, 2nd
gear, 14 psi, and close to 7000 RPM (yes, I was
STUPID).
- --------------------------->
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> As to 7000 rpm in
2nd being foolish I disagree --- I spend a lot of my track
time at or near
redline and the only side effect is to clear up my lifter
tick. I also run a
shift light [ set at 6K ] to remind me in case I'm in the
heat of
battle.
> Jim Berry
-
-------------------------->
I too disagree - I don't think it was
foolish to run at 7k, nor in 2nd gear...
Sears Point was the shortened track
at that time, with only one long straight.
Lots of turns in quick succession
made 2nd gear a good choice for much of that
track, IMO. Both ET and I
took almost every run close to or at redline that
day (at every track we run,
actually). I'm sure there are other factors that
contributed to Ken's
engine giving up (detonation..., 14psi..., who knows?).
These engines are
made to run at redline for extended periods, and they're
tested that
way. Industry standard is to test engines at redline for
100,000
continuous miles. Nissan claims to do it for 200,000 miles with
300Z and
later engines...
Whatever caused the failure, it was still
pretty depressing for all of us when
Ken's engine went. After he got
the feel for the track, Ken was the
proverbial "bat out of hell" that
day. ;-) I've still got a photo of him
standing by the towtruck
on the wall here... Megabummer.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:31:13
-0700
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Datalogs, 13g's, Stock Fuel, 9PSI
Here are some datalogs I made
the night we installed the new turbos. Mods,
13G turbos, K&N, Gutted
cats, test pipe. Running totally stock fuel and
boost.
http://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/run_one.csvhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/run_two.csvhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/run_one.xlshttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/run_two.xlsThese
logs are for comprison. I made them when I has stock turbos. Stock
Exh. MBC
set to 13psi and a K&N
http://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/to_jms.csvhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/to_jms.xlsI'd
like to get some comments.
Yes, I know the idle is running a bit high in
these logs.
I've also attacked some pictures we took during the
install.
http://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-213F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-214F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-215F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-216F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-217F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-218F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-219F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-220F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/turboswap/MVC-221F.JPG***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:58:15
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Quick tranny Q
Mobil 1 ATF. . is it ok to and worth the $ to put in the
tranny?
thanx
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 20:34:43
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car problems
Some things you can check:
1. Have
your hood up and someone turn the key as you listen. You should
hear a
click. That is your starter solenoid. If you don't hear that
then
it is not engaging. There are many causes for it to not engage but
it helps
to narrow things down to know if it is engaging or not. If it
is engaging
but not cranking then the problem is not enough power to the
starter.
2. Have the same person step on your brake pedal. If
your brake lights
don't come on or come on intermittenly then your brake
switch may be bad.
That would prevent an automatic from
starting.
3. Your battery and cables may be good but you may have
something slowly
draining your battery. Disconnect your negative
terminal with the car off
and NOTHING else on in the car (have the doors
shut, no dome lights,
glovebox light etc.). Then take a digital multi
meter (DMM) and check if
there is any currently flow. There should be
none unless you have an
aftermarket alarm.
4. While you have the
battery diconnected clean the terminals. Use a wire
brush or buy a
battery terminal cleaner from an autoparts store for $3.
Good
luck.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 20:38:53
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car problems
One more thing you can do.
Get a hammer
and a punch. Us them to "tap" on the starter. Don't hit it
hard
but tap on it firmly. If you do this and the car starts right
away,
then your starter is sticking.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 22:51:41
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: car problems
Also, if the clutch switch is not working correctly,
the car wont start
if your car is a manual transmission...
-
-Cody
2. Have the same person step on your brake pedal. If
your brake lights
don't come on or come on intermittenly then your brake
switch may be
bad.
That would prevent an automatic from
starting.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:18:21
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick tranny Q
Assuming you have an automatic trans it is OK. I
use a similiar product made
by Redline called Redline ATF. It costs about 7-8
per quart.
Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, July 14, 2002 7:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: Quick tranny
Q
>Mobil 1 ATF. . is it ok to and worth the $ to put in the
tranny?
>
>thanx
>
>-mike
>97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:24:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Quick tranny Q
Sure..no problems at all.
On Sun, 14
Jul 2002, Andrew D. Woll wrote:
> Assuming you have an automatic trans
it is OK. I use a similiar product made
> by Redline called Redline ATF.
It costs about 7-8 per quart.
>
> Andy
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Sunday, July 14, 2002 7:00 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Quick tranny
Q
>
> >Mobil 1 ATF. . is it ok to and worth the $ to put in the
tranny?
> >
> >thanx
> >
> >-mike
>
>97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:26:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Quick tranny Q
I should add..that I dont recall WHICH redline
ATF recipe is for the 3s
autos..but you can email them on the www site.
They reply fast.
On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
Sure..no problems at all.
>
> On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, Andrew D. Woll
wrote:
>
> > Assuming you have an automatic trans it is OK. I
use a similiar product made
> > by Redline called Redline ATF. It costs
about 7-8 per quart.
> >
> > Andy
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 03:52:10
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: Track Overheating
At 16:55 7/14/2002, Bob Forrest
wrote:
>From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
>----------snip----------->
>When
I blew my engine last year at Sears Point, I was at full throttle,
2nd
>gear, 14 psi, and close to 7000 RPM (yes, I was
STUPID).
>--------------------------->
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> > As to 7000
rpm in 2nd being foolish I disagree --- I spend a lot of my
>
track
>time at or near redline and the only side effect is to clear up my
lifter
>tick. I also run a shift light [ set at 6K ] to remind me in case
I'm in the
>heat of battle.
>
> Jim
Berry
>-------------------------->
>I too disagree - I don't
think it was foolish to run at 7k, nor in 2nd gear...
let me also chip
in: I do this very often too. After installing my 15G's, I
drive without a
catback until I decide what king of mufflers to install.
Straight pipe and
the engine wants to rev past the redline. I hit the rev
limiter five times
last week. My boost is only 12 psi for now, but there is
not much difference
between 12 and 14 if there is no detonation.
Philip
(partially
upgraded fuel lines today, pics to follow)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 04:55:42
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Molokai corrected
Oops.
The road to Hana is on Maui.
The
Grand Canyon is on Kauai.
And maybe it was more like 80 up to the volcano,
cuz it's curvy until the last mile.
We only get to Hawaii every 5 years, so
memory fades.
Still, it's a driver's paradise. Great, windy roads.
If you
go, rent a sporty car.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:33:09
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: car problems
Yep, this happened to me (in a Volvo).
Everything looked OK, but NOTHING
happened on turning the key. A sharp rap
with a socket wrench cleared it....
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Sunday, July 14,
2002 11:39 PM
To: Kimberly Byrd;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: car problems
One more thing you can do.
Get a hammer
and a punch. Us them to "tap" on the starter. Don't hit it
hard
but tap on it firmly. If you do this and the car starts right
away,
then your starter is sticking.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:15:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: car problems
You say the problem is not the cables, however,
this is exactly how the car
behaves when the positive cable to the starter is
corroded inside the
braided copper cable and especially down under the car
where it connects to
the starter. The lights still work but the starter
is finicky. Replace the
cables before you replace the starter.
They're cheaper.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
[SMTP:kimbyrd@webtv.net]
> Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 8:25 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: car problems
> . The
> problem is NOT the battery
or the cables. Sometimes the car starts when
> I turn the key and at other
times nothing at all happens. There are not
> noises, nothing. The dash
lights do come on, but that is the only
> indication that the key has been
turned. Sometimes, I have to turn the
> key 8 or 10 times before the car
starts.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:44:47
-0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale: TD05/16G w/custom headers/o2
housings/FMIC/VPC/etc...
For those that don't monitor the 3si
board. I'm selling off a
complete TD05/16G setup
(turbos/headers/o2s). I've also got
many other things such as a
FMIC/VPC, etc. You can checkout
pics of all the items and get
additional info on my website
here:
http://www.clan-davidson.com/jd/forsale/As
always with Team3s 'for sale' posts, please reply to me
privately at:
jd@edge-software.com Not to the
list.
Thanks!
-JD
Also, here's a copy of what
I posted to 3si.org (w/link):
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=9269811b12abea41aac0e77b7283a22d&threadid=89243
-
----------------------------------------------
Hey Folks,
I've decided
to temporarily shelf my upgrade plans for the 93vr4. As a result
I'm
going to sell off the various components I've been accumulating. At the
same time, I'm going 'clean out the garage' of excess parts. If anyone
is
looking for a relatively cheap way to get a complete TD05 setup, this is
your
opportunity. I'd prefer to sell the complete setup together
(turbos/headers/pump/inj, etc), so if your interested in buying a large
block of
the items, please speak up soon.
Here's the list: (See
link below for pics!)
- -TD05/16G turbos, custom exhaust headers, and
pre-cat elminators ($3800, obo)
- -Front Mount Intercooler w/piping, piping
needs some work ($1200, obo)
SOLD! -6 Nippon Denso 720cc Injectors
SOLD!
-1100hp SX Fuel pump and lines; SX Fuel regulator, Fuel filter, custom
fuel
rails modified for higher feed
- -VPC with 550cc chip ($650, obo)
SOLD!
-Custom intake plenum
- -Set of 4 17 inch chrome plated stock wheels, with
used tires ($500, obo)
NOTE: Prices above do not include shipping costs,
shipping will be extra.
Additional info and pics can be
found[URL=http://www.clan-
davidson.com/jd/forsale/]here[/URL]
.
Please, send me email to:
[EMAIL=jd@edge-software.com]jd@edge-
software.com[/EMAIL] only if your are
seriously interested. I will try to
answer any questions posted here,
but may not be able to check the board
regularly as I am very busy right
now.
-JD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:17:45
-0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost after re-build
I just had the motor rebuilt and now during
break in it is only boosting
to about 10-11 psi (autometer boost gauge) and
then quickly dropping to
about 5psi. I plan on breaking in the motor then
putting the EVC back
on, just want it ti run right before then. Any
suggestions?
Thanks
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
Stillen Intake
Borla
Exhaust
Stillen Downpipe
Gutted cats
Curtis
McConnell
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:22:09
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost after re-build
Curtis a local guy here has the same
problem, I have it narrowed down to a
sticking actuator but have not had an
opportunity to confirm this......
Give it a try, the rear turbo is going
to be a little more difficult to test
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Curtis McConnell
[SMTP:Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 12:18
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Boost after re-build
>
> I just had the motor
rebuilt and now during break in it is only boosting
> to about 10-11 psi
(autometer boost gauge) and then quickly dropping to
> about 5psi. I plan
on breaking in the motor then putting the EVC back
> on, just want it ti
run right before then. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
>
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
> Stillen Intake
> Borla Exhaust
> Stillen
Downpipe
> Gutted cats
>
> Curtis McConnell
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 16:26:59
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Boost after re-build
> I just had the motor rebuilt and now
during break in
> it is only boosting to about 10-11 psi
(autometer
> boost gauge) and then quickly dropping to about
> 5psi.
I plan on breaking in the motor then putting
> the EVC back on, just want
it ti run right before
> then. Any suggestions?
Recheck all your
intercooler connections and such. If
possible, make an intake tester
and pressurize it up to
15 psi and listen for leaks. It should be
pretty easy
for a tank-style compressor to build boost, a little
tire
pump compressor is too slow.
If there are no leaks, and you hooked up the
stock boost
control solenoid, disconnect the hose from the H
connector
to the solenoid and carefully check to see if
you get more boost. I
noticed with my forged pistons
that when they are cold they rattle a bit
which the ECU
sees as knock and closes the boost solenoid. What is
your piston to bore clearance? Which pistons?
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:23:00
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: Track Overheating
I also remember once I
banged the rev limiter in neutral several times. I
was tuning my boost
controller on the way to a gathering. I had my data
acquisition connected
incorrectly, which disabled the tach. Apparently,
that also affected the
cruise control. I was rolling down the road in
neutral with the stereo near
full volume when I engaged the cruise
control. The engine reved up from idle
to the red line and past the red
line. I heard that secondary strange sound
over the loud music of a big
fan or a jet engine reving up. Then it went
BANG! BAND! BANG! BANG! My
AVC-R registered a peak value of 7320
RPM.
I still made it to the gathering and drove 5,000 miles since then
without
any
problems.
Philip
>
I have been past 7000 occasionally at 14 psi boost (yes,
there is
a
>rev limiter) in 2nd and 3rd gear with no damage to the engine in
either
'93
>ro '94
VR4.
>
>
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:28:09
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 245/50-16
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Leung" <
eleung@summitracing.com>
> I
have a 1991 Stealth ES with the stock 16x8 "cuisinart" wheels on it.
Stock
tire size is 225/55-16. I am due for new set of balonies, and someone
told me
I could fit 245/50-16. Is this true? I know turbo cars take 245/45-17,
so
this would seem to make sense, but I don't know whether the turbo offset
is
different.
- ---------------------------->
Take a look at our
"Plus Sizing" page for acceptable combinations of wheel and
tire sizes -
245/50-16 is one of them. It will also explain how to calculate
the
overall diameter for other sizes. 245/50 is a diameter of 25.65",
while
stock 225/55 is 25.74". The difference is negligible. You
can even go with a
245/45 or 225/45 for a slightly lower profile (slightly
smaller diameters,
both of which will throw off your speedometer &
odometer by about 4%). I just
put on 245/45ZR16 race rubber (Toyo
Proxes) for my track tires... Here's the
page:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#898
***************************************
