Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Sunday, July 14 2002     Volume 01 : Number 897




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 18:00:07 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut

It sounds like your problem is similar to what I recently went through. I
crossthreaded the lug nut and wheel bolt on front left wheel. I ended up
twisting the bolt till it sheared - VERY easy - and then removed the wheel and
replaced the wheel bolt. In my 1992 AWD TT there was NO WAY the new bolt was
going to go in with the hub on the car. I had to notch the knuckle.
The "right" way of course would be to take the hub off, but I didn't want to
bother with the 1.25" 150+ ft-lb torque axle nut and the bolts that secure the
hub to the knuckle. Complete details on my web page below.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-wheelbolt.htm

If the wheel bolt is free-spinning in the hub then you will have to figure out
a way to break the nut off the bolt.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:35:52 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <Team3S@team3s.com>

Okay - big problem. I was taking off the front driver's wheel. I loosened
the lugs and four went just fine, but one seemed like it was stuck. It would
turn, but with a lot of effort. To make a long story short, I think i broke
a stud. I can't get the fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off. The
lugnut is just rattling around in there - I can move it from side to side,
and I can turn it, but I can't take it out.

Any suggestions? Do I have to try and drill it out? If so, how do i hold the
stupid thing in place - i'm afraid if i put a drill to it, it won't do
anything other that jumping from side to side.

Any and all suggestions are greately appreciated.

Please send all mail directly to me as I am not receiving mail from the list
(apedenko@earthlink.net)

Thanks,

Alex
'95 VR4 with a broken leg.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:46:50 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car problems

Sounds like your starter relay is bad. It is a pain to get to. Take it to a
dealer.

Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kimberly Byrd <kimbyrd@webtv.net>
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, July 12, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: car problems

I posted yesterday about a problem that I'm having with my 1994 3000GT
NA automatic. Thanks for the replies that I have received so far. The
problem is NOT the battery or the cables. Sometimes the car starts when
I turn the key and at other times nothing at all happens. There are not
noises, nothing. The dash lights do come on, but that is the only
indication that the key has been turned. Sometimes, I have to turn the
key 8 or 10 times before the car starts. Could it be that my starter is
going out? Possibly the ignition switch? The car is worse after is has
been driven and is hot.  I still have not been able to find the neutral
switch. Where is the neutral switch located on our cars? Thanks, Kim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:51:26 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny flush

Never put anything in an automatic transmission except the proper fluid.
There are no automatic transmission flushes equal to a radiator flush. You
cannot get all the fluid out, and putting anything except automatic trans
fluid into the trans will cause severe damage.

Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com <M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Saturday, July 13, 2002 10:51 AM
Subject: Team3S: Tranny flush

>I need new AUTO tranny fluid for my SL, but i think i should clean it out
>first. Any1 have any recommendations as to what i could use for that?
>
>Also, how do you tighten the gas pedals in our cars? mine is lose
>thanx
>
>-mike
>97 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:02:25 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut

Sounds like you need to cut the nut off of the stud --- they make a nut
splitter but I don't know if you can get it on a wheel nut with the wheel
still on the car. An hour with a dremmel tool and some carbide bits
would probably do the trick but again not damaging the wheel may be
a problem. As mentioned putting it back together an taking it to a pro
may be the answer.

Even after you remove it you may have stripped the hole that the stud
is pressed into.

        Jim Berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>

> ***I'm posting this for Alex...  He's one of the members with Earthlink as an
> ISP - they have placed Team3S on a "Banned" list for some reason, and those
> members can't get list posts.  Please help him out by copying him privately
> with your responses.  Tx,  --F
> ---------------->
>
> Okay - big problem. I was taking off the front driver's wheel. I loosened
> the lugs and four went just fine, but one seemed like it was stuck. It would
> turn, but with a lot of effort. To make a long story short, I think i broke
> a stud. I can't get the fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off. The
> lugnut is just rattling around in there - I can move it from side to side,
> and I can turn it, but I can't take it out.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 19:45:04 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Off to Molokai

On Tuesday morning, we're off to Molokai for two weeks.

If anyone on the list has any advice of any kind to share about Molokai and driving, please respond off list to merritt@cedar-rapids.net no later than Monday evening.

Shoot, any advice about Molokai would be welcome. As I understand it, there is absolutely nothing to do on Molokai, and we intend to spend two weeks doing exactly that. Gawd, I need it.

As for driving in Hawaii, we already hold the rental car records on Maui to the top of the volcano, and on the Big Island for the Road to Hana.

I'll never forget passing the Forest Service truck on Maui at 100 mph on the way up to the volcano, and then watching him circle the parking lot, trying to find us among dozens of other white, four-door rental cars.

On the Big Island, you want to come back from Hana about 4 pm, when there is no oncoming traffic. You can %^$#@ fly through there!

Other memories of Hawaii: Coming down the mountain on Lanai from the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," seeing the signs warning about brakes, and realizing that they MEANT IT. Whoa! SMELL THEM RENTAL CAR BRAKES!

We almost rented a Ferrari on Maui until they told me it was $500 A DAY!! I settled for chartering a fishing boat for the day ($250). That was much more reasonable. Imagine: A $500,000 fishing boat costs less per day than a $75,000 Ferrari.

Remember, all advice should be off list please. Don't piss off the list keepers.

Mahalo.

Aloha, dudes.

Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:00:25 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Team3S: BBQ brake pads

Should Porterfield R4 and/or R4S brake pads be BBQed before use?  The
coals are hot!  :-)

- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 10:39:47 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BBQ brake pads

> Should Porterfield R4 and/or R4S brake pads be BBQed before use?  The coals
are hot!  :-)
> Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
- ------------------------------>

Absolutely!  But you don't want them so close to the coals that you ignite
them!  You want to bake them at high heat to "outgas" them.  Yes, they will
still smoke and stink a lot - you'll probably piss off a few neighbors.  :-)
But it makes all the difference in the world at the track...  For one thing,
they don't have to warm up as much to work at optimum, as all brakes do.  And
they won't stink as much after a few hard stops (and make you think you broke
something).  We didn't BBQ the previous set (R4S), and at the track we could
see them smoking and stinking all over the place, especially when we finished
the first few runs and came back to the pits.  Fiercely AWful smell...  But we
BBQ'd this most recent set and they stopped tight right from the first run.
No smoke, no smell, no muss, no fuss, no bother...  :-)

Do it!  Full instructions in the FAQ pages:
www.Team3S.com/FAQbrakeBBQ.htm

Best,
Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #897
***************************************