Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, July 14
2002 Volume 01 : Number
897
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Jul 2002 18:00:07 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut
It sounds like your
problem is similar to what I recently went through. I
crossthreaded the lug
nut and wheel bolt on front left wheel. I ended up
twisting the bolt till it
sheared - VERY easy - and then removed the wheel and
replaced the wheel
bolt. In my 1992 AWD TT there was NO WAY the new bolt was
going to go in
with the hub on the car. I had to notch the knuckle.
The "right" way of
course would be to take the hub off, but I didn't want to
bother with the
1.25" 150+ ft-lb torque axle nut and the bolts that secure the
hub to the
knuckle. Complete details on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wheelbolt.htmIf
the wheel bolt is free-spinning in the hub then you will have to figure out
a way to break the nut off the bolt.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Member needs help
- Can't Remove lugnut
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:35:52 -0700
From: "Bob
Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Okay -
big problem. I was taking off the front driver's wheel. I loosened
the lugs
and four went just fine, but one seemed like it was stuck. It would
turn, but
with a lot of effort. To make a long story short, I think i broke
a stud. I
can't get the fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off. The
lugnut is
just rattling around in there - I can move it from side to side,
and I can
turn it, but I can't take it out.
Any suggestions? Do I have to try and
drill it out? If so, how do i hold the
stupid thing in place - i'm afraid if
i put a drill to it, it won't do
anything other that jumping from side to
side.
Any and all suggestions are greately appreciated.
Please
send all mail directly to me as I am not receiving mail from the list
(
apedenko@earthlink.net)
Thanks,
Alex
'95
VR4 with a broken leg.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:46:50
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: car problems
Sounds like your starter relay is bad. It is a pain
to get to. Take it to a
dealer.
Andy
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Kimberly Byrd <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, July 12, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: car problems
I posted
yesterday about a problem that I'm having with my 1994 3000GT
NA automatic.
Thanks for the replies that I have received so far. The
problem is NOT the
battery or the cables. Sometimes the car starts when
I turn the key and at
other times nothing at all happens. There are not
noises, nothing. The dash
lights do come on, but that is the only
indication that the key has been
turned. Sometimes, I have to turn the
key 8 or 10 times before the car
starts. Could it be that my starter is
going out? Possibly the ignition
switch? The car is worse after is has
been driven and is hot. I still
have not been able to find the neutral
switch. Where is the neutral switch
located on our cars? Thanks, Kim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:51:26
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny flush
Never put anything in an automatic transmission
except the proper fluid.
There are no automatic transmission flushes equal to
a radiator flush. You
cannot get all the fluid out, and putting anything
except automatic trans
fluid into the trans will cause severe
damage.
Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, July 13, 2002 10:51 AM
Subject: Team3S: Tranny flush
>I
need new AUTO tranny fluid for my SL, but i think i should clean it
out
>first. Any1 have any recommendations as to what i could use for
that?
>
>Also, how do you tighten the gas pedals in our cars? mine
is lose
>thanx
>
>-mike
>97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:02:25
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut
Sounds like you need to cut the
nut off of the stud --- they make a nut
splitter but I don't know if you can
get it on a wheel nut with the wheel
still on the car. An hour with a dremmel
tool and some carbide bits
would probably do the trick but again not damaging
the wheel may be
a problem. As mentioned putting it back together an taking
it to a pro
may be the answer.
Even after you remove it you may have
stripped the hole that the stud
is pressed
into.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
> ***I'm
posting this for Alex... He's one of the members with Earthlink as
an
> ISP - they have placed Team3S on a "Banned" list for some reason, and
those
> members can't get list posts. Please help him out by copying
him privately
> with your responses. Tx, --F
>
---------------->
>
> Okay - big problem. I was taking off the
front driver's wheel. I loosened
> the lugs and four went just fine, but
one seemed like it was stuck. It would
> turn, but with a lot of effort.
To make a long story short, I think i broke
> a stud. I can't get the
fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off. The
> lugnut is just
rattling around in there - I can move it from side to side,
> and I can
turn it, but I can't take it out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 19:45:04
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Off to Molokai
On Tuesday morning, we're off to Molokai for two
weeks.
If anyone on the list has any advice of any kind to share about
Molokai and driving, please respond off list to
merritt@cedar-rapids.net no later
than Monday evening.
Shoot, any advice about Molokai would be welcome. As
I understand it, there is absolutely nothing to do on Molokai, and we intend to
spend two weeks doing exactly that. Gawd, I need it.
As for driving in
Hawaii, we already hold the rental car records on Maui to the top of the
volcano, and on the Big Island for the Road to Hana.
I'll never forget
passing the Forest Service truck on Maui at 100 mph on the way up to the
volcano, and then watching him circle the parking lot, trying to find us among
dozens of other white, four-door rental cars.
On the Big Island, you want
to come back from Hana about 4 pm, when there is no oncoming traffic. You can
%^$#@ fly through there!
Other memories of Hawaii: Coming down the
mountain on Lanai from the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," seeing the signs
warning about brakes, and realizing that they MEANT IT. Whoa! SMELL THEM RENTAL
CAR BRAKES!
We almost rented a Ferrari on Maui until they told me it was
$500 A DAY!! I settled for chartering a fishing boat for the day ($250). That
was much more reasonable. Imagine: A $500,000 fishing boat costs less per day
than a $75,000 Ferrari.
Remember, all advice should be off list please.
Don't piss off the list keepers.
Mahalo.
Aloha,
dudes.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:00:25
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BBQ brake pads
Should Porterfield R4 and/or R4S brake pads be
BBQed before use? The
coals are hot! :-)
- - --
Jim
Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 10:39:47
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BBQ brake pads
> Should Porterfield R4 and/or R4S brake pads
be BBQed before use? The coals
are hot! :-)
> Jim Matthews
- Yorkshire, England
-
------------------------------>
Absolutely! But you don't want
them so close to the coals that you ignite
them! You want to bake them
at high heat to "outgas" them. Yes, they will
still smoke and stink a
lot - you'll probably piss off a few neighbors. :-)
But it makes all
the difference in the world at the track... For one thing,
they don't
have to warm up as much to work at optimum, as all brakes do. And
they
won't stink as much after a few hard stops (and make you think you
broke
something). We didn't BBQ the previous set (R4S), and at the
track we could
see them smoking and stinking all over the place, especially
when we finished
the first few runs and came back to the pits. Fiercely
AWful smell... But we
BBQ'd this most recent set and they stopped tight
right from the first run.
No smoke, no smell, no muss, no fuss, no
bother... :-)
Do it! Full instructions in the FAQ
pages:
www.Team3S.com/FAQbrakeBBQ.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#897
***************************************