Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Saturday, July 13 2002    Volume 01 : Number 896




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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 08:25:27 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: neutral switch

Kimberly,

I would check the battery as Bob recommended. I had the same issue with my
93 RT/TT, some days it would fire up no problem and others nothing happened
when i turned the key.  The battery was causing a short thus not starting
the car.  $65 to replace.  I would start there 1st.

Francis,

'96 RT/TT 
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
To: Kimberly Byrd; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Sent: 7/11/02 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: neutral switch

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly Byrd" <kimbyrd@webtv.net>
> I posted earlier. My 1994 3000GT NA automatic doesn't start at times.
I have
to turn the key several times before it starts. I was told that it could
possibly be the neutral switch. Where is it located on our cars? My car
goes
into the shop on Monday and my mechanic has no experience with 3000s, so
he's
not sure if the switch in in the back-up lights or in the shifter
console. He
said that he would check it and the ingnition and starter. If I can tell
him
where it is before he starts diagnosing, maybe I can save myself some
money on
labor. Thanks.
- ------------------------------>

>My own wild guess would be to check the terminals (and strength) of the
>battery.  A loose ground, bad contact, or bad battery can cause your car
>to
>exhibit those symptoms. 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 07:34:21 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C problems

Although I can't really explain why, I would replace the four relays in the
engine compartment (drivers side, small black box towards the front and easy
to get to) since they control a large amount of the AC circuitry. Tallahasse
Mitsu has them for 4.50 each. It is a cheap fix if it works and if it
doesn't it didn't costs much. After 10 years the relays probably need
replacing anyway.

Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John M. Hughes" <hughesjohn@mac.com>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc: <hughesjohn@mac.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 5:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: A/C problems

| Recently my 93 RT TT's air conditioning control panel red light began
| blinking after the compressor ran for 15 seconds. Checked freon (R12)
| and it's O.K. Thought it might be the revolution pick-up sensor because
| the compressor blows cold for 15-20 seconds. Asked the dealer to check
| on the computer and was told  the A/C clutch was slipping and I need to
| replace it and the compressor for $1,229.00. When asked why the
| compressor too, I was told as long as they had it apart  I should do it
| because of problems they've had with compressors. Yikes! Anyone have any
| thoughts or suggestions?
|
| Thanks
|
| John Hughes 93 RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:55:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil and water guage

I have just picked up my 92 TT Stealth from the place
that rebuilt the top end. Prior to the re built
valves,
I put in a K&N air filter kit and 13G turbos put a
larger fuel line. I have driven it to check it out and
notice that my water temp guage is about 40% on the
guage, while before it was someplace between 20 t0
30%.
I also notice that the oil guage goes down to one
click at idle and dosen't get to the first long line
at startup or driving. Also when I went to WOT the
turbo guage jumped off the uper scale but I know I
wasn't pushing 14 PSI yet. It seems to run great but
these little changes worry me. How many other have
water temp at 40% oil guage that never hits the first
lower long slash, and boost guage that goes to the top
on just a little power run up.

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:54:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil and water guage

I have just picked up my 92 TT Stealth from the place
that rebuilt the top end. Prior to the re built
valves,
I put in a K&N air filter kit and 13G turbos put a
larger fuel line. I have driven it to check it out and
notice that my water temp guage is about 40% on the
guage, while before it was someplace between 20 t0
30%.
I also notice that the oil guage goes down to one
click at idle and dosen't get to the first long line
at startup or driving. Also when I went to WOT the
turbo guage jumped off the uper scale but I know I
wasn't pushing 14 PSI yet. It seems to run great but
these little changes worry me. How many other have
water temp at 40% oil guage that never hits the first
lower long slash, and boost guage that goes to the top
on just a little power run up.

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:06:15 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C removal:  what belt size is needed?

That's true, but someone actually suggested to me to route the belt
under the tensioner.  Granted this will cause the groved side of the
belt to come into contact with a smooth pulley, but I don't know what
the long term effect of this will be on the belt itself.

To avoid this entirely, does anyone know the size of a belt that will
fit without the A/C?  What aobut how belt sizes work?  I know our belts
are 6grove belts but how wide are they?

Thanks
Damon

glenn amy wrote:

> As you can see in this picture (thanks Erik!) the belt
> tensioner won't due much good if the a/c compressor
> has been removed.
>
> http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/60Kpictures/PA200011.JPG
>
> has anyone removed the a/c with sucess???
>
> Glenn

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:16:00 -0400
From: "alan92rttt" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage

I just upgraded to 13g's
So far I have seen no change in oil preasure or water temp(using stock
guages)
Except for the first run or two boost has stopped at 9-10psi and been solid
there to redline.

Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "menalteed" <menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "tam 3S" <Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 2:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Oil and water guage

> I have just picked up my 92 TT Stealth from the place
> that rebuilt the top end. Prior to the re built
> valves,
> I put in a K&N air filter kit and 13G turbos put a
> larger fuel line. I have driven it to check it out and
> notice that my water temp guage is about 40% on the
> guage, while before it was someplace between 20 t0
> 30%.
> I also notice that the oil guage goes down to one
> click at idle and dosen't get to the first long line
> at startup or driving. Also when I went to WOT the
> turbo guage jumped off the uper scale but I know I
> wasn't pushing 14 PSI yet. It seems to run great but
> these little changes worry me. How many other have
> water temp at 40% oil guage that never hits the first
> lower long slash, and boost guage that goes to the top
> on just a little power run up.
>
> Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:11:22 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil and water guage

On both of my 1995 VR-4s, the temp gauge sat at about 45% when the engine
was at operating temperature.  Also, they both would peg the stock boost
gauge, even when running stock boost (11-12psi, as verified on an external
gauge).  As for oil pressure, my first VR-4 would sit about 1/4-1/3 at idle
and go up to 2/3-3/4 at high RPM.  My second VR-4 now reads a tad higher
than that at idle, but not all that different at higher RPM.

- --Erik

> How many other have water temp at 40% oil guage that
> never hits the first lower long slash, and boost
> guage that goes to the top on just a little power run up.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:19:34 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: A/C removal:  what belt size is needed?

Putting the belt under the pulley will only push the pulley upwards..
with the adjustment screw getting pushed upwards extendeding from the
fixture.. it will not work that way easily. It can be done the way you
say.. but the belt needs to be tensioned and the bolt on the pulley
tightened down.. dunno how easy it would be to pull down on that pulley
with enough force to tension the belt while tightening the bolt.

Omar

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Damon Rachell
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 3:06 PM
To: glenn amy
Cc: 3sracers@www.speedtoys.com; team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C removal: what belt size is needed?

That's true, but someone actually suggested to me to route the belt
under the tensioner.  Granted this will cause the groved side of the
belt to come into contact with a smooth pulley, but I don't know what
the long term effect of this will be on the belt itself.

To avoid this entirely, does anyone know the size of a belt that will
fit without the A/C?  What aobut how belt sizes work?  I know our belts
are 6grove belts but how wide are they?

Thanks
Damon

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:29:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage

1)  Anyone using the stock guage to measure temperatures, and to even
INFER accuracy, or use it as a comparison to another stock guage..should
be shot.

That should be a global rule of auto tuning.

Want results buy a proper guage...stock guages are not accurate, are not
linear, and act differently from car to car..and over time.

On Fri, 12 Jul 2002, alan92rttt wrote:

> I just upgraded to 13g's
> So far I have seen no change in oil preasure or water temp(using stock
> guages)
> Except for the first run or two boost has stopped at 9-10psi and been solid
> there to redline.
>
> Alan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:34:08 -0400
From: "alan92rttt" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage

I never infered accuracy or a comparison to each others car. I infered that
a similar change to the engine(aka turbos) had no change to the stock
guages. The only inferance any intelligent person would draw from this is
that swaping the turbos sould not effect the cars "normal" reading for oil
or water. The level of accuracy sould be unchanged.

Anyone thinking I was infering more should be shot.

Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage

> 1)  Anyone using the stock guage to measure temperatures, and to even
> INFER accuracy, or use it as a comparison to another stock guage..should
> be shot.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:43:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage

I agree..it was more for the original poster..than anything else.

On Fri, 12 Jul 2002, alan92rttt wrote:

> I never infered accuracy or a comparison to each others car. I infered that
> a similar change to the engine(aka turbos) had no change to the stock
> guages. The only inferance any intelligent person would draw from this is
> that swaping the turbos sould not effect the cars "normal" reading for oil
> or water. The level of accuracy sould be unchanged.
>
> Anyone thinking I was infering more should be shot.
>
> Alan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:17:57 -0600
From: "Gabe Simoes" <stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: neutral switch

Check the starter too.  I went through three starters trying to fix the same
problem.  All of them had "dead spots."  Try that after the battery.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Morice, Francis
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 7:25 AM
To: 'Bob Forrest '; 'Kimberly Byrd '; 'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st '
Subject: RE: Team3S: neutral switch

Kimberly,

I would check the battery as Bob recommended. I had the same issue with my
93 RT/TT, some days it would fire up no problem and others nothing happened
when i turned the key.  The battery was causing a short thus not starting
the car.  $65 to replace.  I would start there 1st.

Francis,

'96 RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:24:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: car problems

I posted yesterday about a problem that I'm having with my 1994 3000GT
NA automatic. Thanks for the replies that I have received so far. The
problem is NOT the battery or the cables. Sometimes the car starts when
I turn the key and at other times nothing at all happens. There are not
noises, nothing. The dash lights do come on, but that is the only
indication that the key has been turned. Sometimes, I have to turn the
key 8 or 10 times before the car starts. Could it be that my starter is
going out? Possibly the ignition switch? The car is worse after is has
been driven and is hot.  I still have not been able to find the neutral
switch. Where is the neutral switch located on our cars? Thanks, Kim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:53:02 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cruse Control & AirCon

Well, you didn't really elaborate on which part of the cruise is not
working but if your "ASC ON" light comes on, but the "cruise" light does
not, it is most likely your clutch switch. Try pulling the clutch pedal
towards you with the top of your foot, then try to set the cruise. If it
works, you need to adjust your clutch switch.

Another problem I've come accross is the vacum nipple on the pump gets hot
and breaks off. See if you have a vacum hose hanging near the box where the
cables go in, by the timing belt covers.

At 12:22 PM 7/12/02 +0100, George Shaw wrote:
>Cruse control no functioning, is there a fuse or something simple to
>check?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:05:55 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: car problems

According to page 23-53, in the manual, the Park/Neutral switch is located
on the shift lever.

I don't have time to trace the wiring diagram to see how the starter in
triggered, but it sounds like either the starter or the relay that controls
it is bad.  When a starter gets hot, it requires more amperage to turn the
engine over.

Good luck,

Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly Byrd" <kimbyrd@webtv.net>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 8:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: car problems

> I posted yesterday about a problem that I'm having with my 1994 3000GT
> NA automatic. Thanks for the replies that I have received so far. The
> problem is NOT the battery or the cables. Sometimes the car starts when
> I turn the key and at other times nothing at all happens. There are not
> noises, nothing. The dash lights do come on, but that is the only
> indication that the key has been turned. Sometimes, I have to turn the
> key 8 or 10 times before the car starts. Could it be that my starter is
> going out? Possibly the ignition switch? The car is worse after is has
> been driven and is hot.  I still have not been able to find the neutral
> switch. Where is the neutral switch located on our cars? Thanks, Kim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:14:39 -0400
From: SuperFast3000GT@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Starting problem

It started out mostly only on rainy days, now its all the time. After the car sits for a while, now its down to just a few hours...it doesnt want to start. If I get in the car and turn the key all the way the car just cranks. Will not start. It sounds like its trying to fire but never completely does. Then there after its only gets worse. Nothing but the starter cranking. Heres my trick, if i turn the key on and all the way off about 10-15 times before i turn it all the way forward to start it, it usually starts. If not on the first crank...a few more on and off's after that and then it will. I do not understand this. Sometimes when it does start it almost or does die at first then its fine. (when it dies i do the same thing over and it starts)Does anyone know what this could be?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:24:48 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Starting problem

I going to guess the fuel pump or it's relay is going bad.

It may be something else, but there's a place to start checking.

I had a fuel pump on another car that didn't want to start turning, but when
it finally did, it would work fine.

Rich

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <SuperFast3000GT@aol.com>
To: <team3s-digest@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 9:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Starting problem

> It started out mostly only on rainy days, now its all the time. After the
car sits for a while, now its down to just a few hours...it doesnt want to
start. If I get in the car and turn the key all the way the car just cranks.
Will not start. It sounds like its trying to fire but never completely does.
Then there after its only gets worse. Nothing but the starter cranking.
Heres my trick, if i turn the key on and all the way off about 10-15 times
before i turn it all the way forward to start it, it usually starts. If not
on the first crank...a few more on and off's after that and then it will. I
do not understand this. Sometimes when it does start it almost or does die
at first then its fine. (when it dies i do the same thing over and it
starts)Does anyone know what this could be?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:35:52 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut

***I'm posting this for Alex...  He's one of the members with Earthlink as an
ISP - they have placed Team3S on a "Banned" list for some reason, and those
members can't get list posts.  Please help him out by copying him privately
with your responses.  Tx,  --F
- ---------------->

Okay - big problem. I was taking off the front driver's wheel. I loosened
the lugs and four went just fine, but one seemed like it was stuck. It would
turn, but with a lot of effort. To make a long story short, I think i broke
a stud. I can't get the fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off. The
lugnut is just rattling around in there - I can move it from side to side,
and I can turn it, but I can't take it out.

Any suggestions? Do I have to try and drill it out? If so, how do i hold the
stupid thing in place - i'm afraid if i put a drill to it, it won't do
anything other that jumping from side to side.

Any and all suggestions are greately appreciated.

Please send all mail directly to me as I am not receiving mail from the list
(apedenko@earthlink.net)

Thanks,

Alex
'95 VR4 with a broken leg.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:47:13 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut

Unfortunately Alex...  about the only thing you can do is bolt up the
other 4, make sure it spins freely, then take it to a shop...  At
Discount Tire Co, we get this every once in a while...  the only thing
you may be able to try is using the wheel as a lever, pry out on the
lug....  position the lug at the 12 o'clock position, then pull out on
the top half of the wheel....  at the same time, use an impact wrench
(not sure how well a standard 4-way would work, if at all)...  and try
to get it off that way...  Remember... if you do try to reinstall the 4
lugs, make sure the wheel spins freely, and that the loose lug/stud
doesn't bind with anything behind the hub surface such as the brakes,
etc... 

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 12:36 AM
To: Team3S@team3s.com
Cc: Alex Pedenko
Subject: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut

***I'm posting this for Alex...  He's one of the members with Earthlink
as an
ISP - they have placed Team3S on a "Banned" list for some reason, and
those
members can't get list posts.  Please help him out by copying him
privately
with your responses.  Tx,  --F
- ---------------->

Okay - big problem. I was taking off the front driver's wheel. I
loosened
the lugs and four went just fine, but one seemed like it was stuck. It
would
turn, but with a lot of effort. To make a long story short, I think i
broke
a stud. I can't get the fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off.
The
lugnut is just rattling around in there - I can move it from side to
side,
and I can turn it, but I can't take it out.

Any suggestions? Do I have to try and drill it out? If so, how do i hold
the
stupid thing in place - i'm afraid if i put a drill to it, it won't do
anything other that jumping from side to side.

Any and all suggestions are greately appreciated.

Please send all mail directly to me as I am not receiving mail from the
list
(apedenko@earthlink.net)

Thanks,

Alex
'95 VR4 with a broken leg.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:34:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car problems

I had a problem like that, it could be a lot of things
but in my case it turned out to be a little wire on my
alarm system, " a after market system" The wire was
conected to my positive terminal on the battery and
because of battery acid it has a open in it, looked
good just loking but once I touched it it fell apart.
I repaired the wire, and that fixed the problem.
Just one more thing to consider.

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:48:30 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Tranny flush

I need new AUTO tranny fluid for my SL, but i think i should clean it out
first. Any1 have any recommendations as to what i could use for that?

Also, how do you tighten the gas pedals in our cars? mine is lose
thanx

- -mike
97 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #896
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