Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, July 13
2002 Volume 01 : Number
896
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 Jul 2002 08:25:27 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: neutral switch
Kimberly,
I would check the battery as
Bob recommended. I had the same issue with my
93 RT/TT, some days it would
fire up no problem and others nothing happened
when i turned the key.
The battery was causing a short thus not starting
the car. $65 to
replace. I would start there 1st.
Francis,
'96
RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Forrest
To: Kimberly Byrd;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
7/11/02 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: neutral switch
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Kimberly Byrd" <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
> I posted
earlier. My 1994 3000GT NA automatic doesn't start at times.
I have
to
turn the key several times before it starts. I was told that it
could
possibly be the neutral switch. Where is it located on our cars? My
car
goes
into the shop on Monday and my mechanic has no experience with
3000s, so
he's
not sure if the switch in in the back-up lights or in the
shifter
console. He
said that he would check it and the ingnition and
starter. If I can tell
him
where it is before he starts diagnosing, maybe
I can save myself some
money on
labor. Thanks.
-
------------------------------>
>My own wild guess would be to
check the terminals (and strength) of the
>battery. A loose ground,
bad contact, or bad battery can cause your car
>to
>exhibit those
symptoms.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 07:34:21
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A/C problems
Although I can't really explain why, I would replace
the four relays in the
engine compartment (drivers side, small black box
towards the front and easy
to get to) since they control a large amount of
the AC circuitry. Tallahasse
Mitsu has them for 4.50 each. It is a cheap fix
if it works and if it
doesn't it didn't costs much. After 10 years the relays
probably need
replacing anyway.
Andy
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "John M. Hughes" <
hughesjohn@mac.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
hughesjohn@mac.com>
Sent:
Thursday, July 11, 2002 5:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: A/C problems
|
Recently my 93 RT TT's air conditioning control panel red light began
|
blinking after the compressor ran for 15 seconds. Checked freon (R12)
| and
it's O.K. Thought it might be the revolution pick-up sensor because
| the
compressor blows cold for 15-20 seconds. Asked the dealer to check
| on the
computer and was told the A/C clutch was slipping and I need to
|
replace it and the compressor for $1,229.00. When asked why the
| compressor
too, I was told as long as they had it apart I should do it
| because
of problems they've had with compressors. Yikes! Anyone have any
| thoughts
or suggestions?
|
| Thanks
|
| John Hughes 93 RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:55:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil and water guage
I have just picked up my 92 TT Stealth from
the place
that rebuilt the top end. Prior to the re built
valves,
I put
in a K&N air filter kit and 13G turbos put a
larger fuel line. I have
driven it to check it out and
notice that my water temp guage is about 40% on
the
guage, while before it was someplace between 20 t0
30%.
I also
notice that the oil guage goes down to one
click at idle and dosen't get to
the first long line
at startup or driving. Also when I went to WOT
the
turbo guage jumped off the uper scale but I know I
wasn't pushing 14
PSI yet. It seems to run great but
these little changes worry me. How many
other have
water temp at 40% oil guage that never hits the first
lower
long slash, and boost guage that goes to the top
on just a little power run
up.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:54:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil and water guage
I have just picked up my 92 TT Stealth from
the place
that rebuilt the top end. Prior to the re built
valves,
I put
in a K&N air filter kit and 13G turbos put a
larger fuel line. I have
driven it to check it out and
notice that my water temp guage is about 40% on
the
guage, while before it was someplace between 20 t0
30%.
I also
notice that the oil guage goes down to one
click at idle and dosen't get to
the first long line
at startup or driving. Also when I went to WOT
the
turbo guage jumped off the uper scale but I know I
wasn't pushing 14
PSI yet. It seems to run great but
these little changes worry me. How many
other have
water temp at 40% oil guage that never hits the first
lower
long slash, and boost guage that goes to the top
on just a little power run
up.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:06:15
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
A/C removal: what belt size is needed?
That's true, but someone
actually suggested to me to route the belt
under the tensioner.
Granted this will cause the groved side of the
belt to come into contact
with a smooth pulley, but I don't know what
the long term effect of this
will be on the belt itself.
To avoid this entirely, does anyone know the
size of a belt that will
fit without the A/C? What aobut how belt
sizes work? I know our belts
are 6grove belts but how wide are
they?
Thanks
Damon
glenn amy wrote:
> As you can see
in this picture (thanks Erik!) the belt
> tensioner won't due much good if
the a/c compressor
> has been removed.
>
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/60Kpictures/PA200011.JPG>
> has anyone removed the a/c with sucess???
>
>
Glenn
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:16:00
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil and water guage
I just upgraded to 13g's
So far I have
seen no change in oil preasure or water temp(using stock
guages)
Except
for the first run or two boost has stopped at 9-10psi and been solid
there to
redline.
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "menalteed"
<
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "tam
3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, July 12, 2002 2:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Oil and water
guage
> I have just picked up my 92 TT Stealth from the place
>
that rebuilt the top end. Prior to the re built
> valves,
> I put in
a K&N air filter kit and 13G turbos put a
> larger fuel line. I have
driven it to check it out and
> notice that my water temp guage is about
40% on the
> guage, while before it was someplace between 20 t0
>
30%.
> I also notice that the oil guage goes down to one
> click at
idle and dosen't get to the first long line
> at startup or driving. Also
when I went to WOT the
> turbo guage jumped off the uper scale but I know
I
> wasn't pushing 14 PSI yet. It seems to run great but
> these
little changes worry me. How many other have
> water temp at 40% oil guage
that never hits the first
> lower long slash, and boost guage that goes to
the top
> on just a little power run up.
>
>
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:11:22
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil and water guage
On both of my 1995 VR-4s, the temp gauge sat
at about 45% when the engine
was at operating temperature. Also, they
both would peg the stock boost
gauge, even when running stock boost
(11-12psi, as verified on an external
gauge). As for oil pressure, my
first VR-4 would sit about 1/4-1/3 at idle
and go up to 2/3-3/4 at high
RPM. My second VR-4 now reads a tad higher
than that at idle, but not
all that different at higher RPM.
- --Erik
> How many other
have water temp at 40% oil guage that
> never hits the first lower long
slash, and boost
> guage that goes to the top on just a little power run
up.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:19:34
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: A/C
removal: what belt size is needed?
Putting the belt under the
pulley will only push the pulley upwards..
with the adjustment screw getting
pushed upwards extendeding from the
fixture.. it will not work that way
easily. It can be done the way you
say.. but the belt needs to be tensioned
and the bolt on the pulley
tightened down.. dunno how easy it would be to
pull down on that pulley
with enough force to tension the belt while
tightening the bolt.
Omar
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Damon Rachell
Sent: Friday,
July 12, 2002 3:06 PM
To: glenn amy
Cc:
3sracers@www.speedtoys.com;
team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C removal: what belt size is
needed?
That's true, but someone actually suggested to me to route the
belt
under the tensioner. Granted this will cause the groved side of
the
belt to come into contact with a smooth pulley, but I don't know what
the long term effect of this will be on the belt itself.
To avoid
this entirely, does anyone know the size of a belt that will
fit without the
A/C? What aobut how belt sizes work? I know our belts
are 6grove
belts but how wide are they?
Thanks
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:29:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage
1) Anyone using the stock guage to
measure temperatures, and to even
INFER accuracy, or use it as a comparison
to another stock guage..should
be shot.
That should be a global rule
of auto tuning.
Want results buy a proper guage...stock guages are not
accurate, are not
linear, and act differently from car to car..and over
time.
On Fri, 12 Jul 2002, alan92rttt wrote:
> I just upgraded
to 13g's
> So far I have seen no change in oil preasure or water
temp(using stock
> guages)
> Except for the first run or two boost
has stopped at 9-10psi and been solid
> there to redline.
>
>
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:34:08
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil and water guage
I never infered accuracy or a comparison to
each others car. I infered that
a similar change to the engine(aka turbos)
had no change to the stock
guages. The only inferance any intelligent person
would draw from this is
that swaping the turbos sould not effect the cars
"normal" reading for oil
or water. The level of accuracy sould be
unchanged.
Anyone thinking I was infering more should be
shot.
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage
> 1) Anyone using the stock
guage to measure temperatures, and to even
> INFER accuracy, or use it as
a comparison to another stock guage..should
> be shot.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:43:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil and water guage
I agree..it was more for the original
poster..than anything else.
On Fri, 12 Jul 2002, alan92rttt
wrote:
> I never infered accuracy or a comparison to each others car.
I infered that
> a similar change to the engine(aka turbos) had no change
to the stock
> guages. The only inferance any intelligent person would
draw from this is
> that swaping the turbos sould not effect the cars
"normal" reading for oil
> or water. The level of accuracy sould be
unchanged.
>
> Anyone thinking I was infering more should be
shot.
>
> Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:17:57
-0600
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: neutral switch
Check the starter too. I went through
three starters trying to fix the same
problem. All of them had "dead
spots." Try that after the battery.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Morice, Francis
Sent: Friday,
July 12, 2002 7:25 AM
To: 'Bob Forrest '; 'Kimberly Byrd ';
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
'
Subject: RE: Team3S: neutral switch
Kimberly,
I would check
the battery as Bob recommended. I had the same issue with my
93 RT/TT, some
days it would fire up no problem and others nothing happened
when i turned
the key. The battery was causing a short thus not starting
the
car. $65 to replace. I would start there
1st.
Francis,
'96 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:24:50
-0400 (EDT)
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
(Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: car problems
I posted yesterday about
a problem that I'm having with my 1994 3000GT
NA automatic. Thanks for the
replies that I have received so far. The
problem is NOT the battery or the
cables. Sometimes the car starts when
I turn the key and at other times
nothing at all happens. There are not
noises, nothing. The dash lights do
come on, but that is the only
indication that the key has been turned.
Sometimes, I have to turn the
key 8 or 10 times before the car starts. Could
it be that my starter is
going out? Possibly the ignition switch? The car is
worse after is has
been driven and is hot. I still have not been able
to find the neutral
switch. Where is the neutral switch located on our cars?
Thanks, Kim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:53:02
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cruse Control & AirCon
Well, you didn't really elaborate on
which part of the cruise is not
working but if your "ASC ON" light comes on,
but the "cruise" light does
not, it is most likely your clutch switch. Try
pulling the clutch pedal
towards you with the top of your foot, then try to
set the cruise. If it
works, you need to adjust your clutch
switch.
Another problem I've come accross is the vacum nipple on the pump
gets hot
and breaks off. See if you have a vacum hose hanging near the box
where the
cables go in, by the timing belt covers.
At 12:22 PM
7/12/02 +0100, George Shaw wrote:
>Cruse control no functioning, is there
a fuse or something simple to
>check?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:05:55
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: car problems
According to page 23-53, in the manual, the
Park/Neutral switch is located
on the shift lever.
I don't have time
to trace the wiring diagram to see how the starter in
triggered, but it
sounds like either the starter or the relay that controls
it is bad.
When a starter gets hot, it requires more amperage to turn the
engine
over.
Good luck,
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Kimberly Byrd" <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, July 12, 2002 8:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: car problems
> I
posted yesterday about a problem that I'm having with my 1994 3000GT
> NA
automatic. Thanks for the replies that I have received so far. The
>
problem is NOT the battery or the cables. Sometimes the car starts when
>
I turn the key and at other times nothing at all happens. There are not
>
noises, nothing. The dash lights do come on, but that is the only
>
indication that the key has been turned. Sometimes, I have to turn the
>
key 8 or 10 times before the car starts. Could it be that my starter is
>
going out? Possibly the ignition switch? The car is worse after is has
>
been driven and is hot. I still have not been able to find the
neutral
> switch. Where is the neutral switch located on our cars? Thanks,
Kim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:14:39
-0400
From:
SuperFast3000GT@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Starting problem
It started out mostly only on rainy days, now
its all the time. After the car sits for a while, now its down to just a few
hours...it doesnt want to start. If I get in the car and turn the key all the
way the car just cranks. Will not start. It sounds like its trying to fire but
never completely does. Then there after its only gets worse. Nothing but the
starter cranking. Heres my trick, if i turn the key on and all the way off about
10-15 times before i turn it all the way forward to start it, it usually starts.
If not on the first crank...a few more on and off's after that and then it will.
I do not understand this. Sometimes when it does start it almost or does die at
first then its fine. (when it dies i do the same thing over and it starts)Does
anyone know what this could be?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:24:48
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Starting problem
I going to guess the fuel pump or it's relay is
going bad.
It may be something else, but there's a place to start
checking.
I had a fuel pump on another car that didn't want to start
turning, but when
it finally did, it would work fine.
Rich
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
SuperFast3000GT@aol.com>
To:
<
team3s-digest@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Friday, July 12, 2002 9:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Starting problem
>
It started out mostly only on rainy days, now its all the time. After the
car
sits for a while, now its down to just a few hours...it doesnt want to
start.
If I get in the car and turn the key all the way the car just cranks.
Will
not start. It sounds like its trying to fire but never completely does.
Then
there after its only gets worse. Nothing but the starter cranking.
Heres my
trick, if i turn the key on and all the way off about 10-15 times
before i
turn it all the way forward to start it, it usually starts. If not
on the
first crank...a few more on and off's after that and then it will. I
do not
understand this. Sometimes when it does start it almost or does die
at first
then its fine. (when it dies i do the same thing over and it
starts)Does
anyone know what this could be?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 22:35:52
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut
***I'm posting this for
Alex... He's one of the members with Earthlink as an
ISP - they have
placed Team3S on a "Banned" list for some reason, and those
members can't get
list posts. Please help him out by copying him privately
with your
responses. Tx, --F
- ---------------->
Okay - big
problem. I was taking off the front driver's wheel. I loosened
the lugs and
four went just fine, but one seemed like it was stuck. It would
turn, but
with a lot of effort. To make a long story short, I think i broke
a stud. I
can't get the fifth lugnut off. I can't take the wheel off. The
lugnut is
just rattling around in there - I can move it from side to side,
and I can
turn it, but I can't take it out.
Any suggestions? Do I have to try and
drill it out? If so, how do i hold the
stupid thing in place - i'm afraid if
i put a drill to it, it won't do
anything other that jumping from side to
side.
Any and all suggestions are greately appreciated.
Please
send all mail directly to me as I am not receiving mail from the list
(
apedenko@earthlink.net)
Thanks,
Alex
'95
VR4 with a broken leg.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:47:13
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove lugnut
Unfortunately
Alex... about the only thing you can do is bolt up the
other 4, make
sure it spins freely, then take it to a shop... At
Discount Tire Co, we
get this every once in a while... the only thing
you may be able to try
is using the wheel as a lever, pry out on the
lug.... position the lug
at the 12 o'clock position, then pull out on
the top half of the
wheel.... at the same time, use an impact wrench
(not sure how well a
standard 4-way would work, if at all)... and try
to get it off that
way... Remember... if you do try to reinstall the 4
lugs, make sure the
wheel spins freely, and that the loose lug/stud
doesn't bind with anything
behind the hub surface such as the brakes,
etc...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Saturday,
July 13, 2002 12:36 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comCc: Alex
Pedenko
Subject: Team3S: Member needs help - Can't Remove
lugnut
***I'm posting this for Alex... He's one of the members with
Earthlink
as an
ISP - they have placed Team3S on a "Banned" list for some
reason, and
those
members can't get list posts. Please help him out
by copying him
privately
with your responses. Tx, --F
-
---------------->
Okay - big problem. I was taking off the front
driver's wheel. I
loosened
the lugs and four went just fine, but one
seemed like it was stuck. It
would
turn, but with a lot of effort. To make
a long story short, I think i
broke
a stud. I can't get the fifth lugnut
off. I can't take the wheel off.
The
lugnut is just rattling around in
there - I can move it from side to
side,
and I can turn it, but I can't
take it out.
Any suggestions? Do I have to try and drill it out? If so,
how do i hold
the
stupid thing in place - i'm afraid if i put a drill to
it, it won't do
anything other that jumping from side to side.
Any and
all suggestions are greately appreciated.
Please send all mail directly
to me as I am not receiving mail from the
list
(
apedenko@earthlink.net)
Thanks,
Alex
'95
VR4 with a broken leg.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:34:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: car problems
I had a problem like that, it could be a lot of
things
but in my case it turned out to be a little wire on my
alarm
system, " a after market system" The wire was
conected to my positive
terminal on the battery and
because of battery acid it has a open in it,
looked
good just loking but once I touched it it fell apart.
I repaired
the wire, and that fixed the problem.
Just one more thing to
consider.
Peter
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:48:30
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Tranny flush
I need new AUTO tranny fluid for my SL, but i think i should
clean it out
first. Any1 have any recommendations as to what i could use for
that?
Also, how do you tighten the gas pedals in our cars? mine is lose
thanx
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#896
***************************************
