Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 9
2002 Volume 01 : Number
893
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:28:04 EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S: TT
Tranny question
My friend just recently bought a 94 VR-4 with 80 grand on
it. Surprisingly.
. .the tranny has a problem (gasp!) It wont hold
reverse, and 2nd gear grinds
a bit. He took it to my trusted mechanic, and
he told us that Mitsu will only
sell whole transmissions to him. .
specifically the dealer will only seel
it-not gears or syncros or other
individual parts. Is this true?
The tranny costs $4,400. . the car is
worth 12. I ask this cuz i kno alot of
you guys have had problems like this.
Freehold Mitsu. . the place where i
bought my car. . told him that there is
no way he can get anything but the
whole tranny. . but i dont trust them
completely thanx to some prior
dealings. . .
thanx for the help
-
-mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:39:09
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
As a matter of fact, quite a few 2nd gens
report the problem. No 1st gens. It is most apparent with stockers who run a lot
of 2nd gear, so we initially attributed it to the transmission difference. But I
got the problem again, running higher boost in 3rd and
4th.
Rich
At 11:28 AM 7/8/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Not trying
to be jerk here, but who else besides you is overheating? I know
>of 4 2nd
gens running up here, 2 running higher boost with no overheating.
>At 11:28 AM 7/8/02 -0500, Morice, Francis wrote:
>Not trying to be
jerk here, but who else besides you is overheating? I know
>of 4 2nd gens
running up here, 2 running higher boost with no overheating.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:40:02
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A day at the races
Yes. Had it done at a speed
shop.
Rich
At 11:36 AM 7/8/02 -0500, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
>Rich,
>
>Have you ever actually "flushed" your cooling
system? This involves getting
>the car up to operating temperature,
diverting flow from the upper radiator
>hose to a waste container, and
replacing fluid through the radiator itself
>until the fluid coming out is
nice and clean. T
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:41:00
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
Yes. It only happens on road
courses.
Rich
At 09:56 AM 7/8/02 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Do they run road course type abuse?
>
>On Mon, 8 Jul
2002, Morice, Francis wrote:
>
>> Not trying to be jerk here, but
who else besides you is overheating? I know
>> of 4 2nd gens running up
here, 2 running higher boost with no overheating.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Francis
>> '96 RT/TT(not
overheating)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:57:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A day at the races
No offense, but Ive seen a lot of improper
flushes in my lifetime..
On Mon, 8 Jul 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> Yes. Had it done at a speed shop.
> Rich
>
> At 11:36 AM 7/8/02 -0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
>Rich,
> >
> >Have you ever actually "flushed" your cooling
system? This involves getting
> >the car up to operating
temperature, diverting flow from the upper radiator
> >hose to a waste
container, and replacing fluid through the radiator itself
> >until the
fluid coming out is nice and clean. T
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 18:48:54
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TT Tranny question
Many, if not ALL, internal parts for our
Getrag AWD transaxle are available. I
list 10 shops on my Garage page at my
web site that rebuild our Getrag
transaxle and/or supply parts, including
CRS which will supply factory Getrag
internal parts for retail (and maybe
wholesale).
http://www.stealth316.com/1-repair.htm#S12As
far as I know, dealers will only sell you the complete transaxle, often
wanting to pair it with a new transfer case. Check out Kormex to see if they
still have *new* 6-spd Getrags for sale.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 08, 2002 12:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: TT Tranny question
My
friend just recently bought a 94 VR-4 with 80 grand on it. Surprisingly.
.the tranny has a problem (gasp!) It wont hold reverse, and 2nd gear
grinds
a bit. He took it to my trusted mechanic, and he told us that Mitsu
will only
sell whole transmissions to him. . specifically the dealer will
only seel
it-not gears or syncros or other individual parts. Is this true?
The tranny costs $4,400. . the car is worth 12. I ask this cuz i kno
alot of
you guys have had problems like this. Freehold Mitsu. . the place
where i
bought my car. . told him that there is no way he can get anything
but the
whole tranny. . but i dont trust them completely thanx to some prior
dealings. . .
thanx for the help
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:57:45
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TT Tranny question
Your friend definitely has a 2nd gear
synchro problem.
80K is about right. It probably went out at 60 K
A
rebuilt tranny from Mitsubishi costs less than $3K, and there are dealers on the
list who give us discounts.
If you are anywhere near Cedar Rapids, Iowa,
you could come here to get it fixed. My dealer (Zimmerman Ford/Mitsubishi)
replaced mine for $3500 including labor (it was covered under warranty at the
time).
Rich/slow old poop
At 02:28 PM 7/8/02 EDT,
M3000GTSL84@aol.com wrote:
>My
friend just recently bought a 94 VR-4 with 80 grand on it. Surprisingly.
>. .the tranny has a problem (gasp!) It wont hold reverse, and 2nd gear
grinds
>a bit. <snip> >The tranny costs $4,400. .
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 15:07:58
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TT Tranny question
While it is true that mits will only sell the
trans parts are available.
CRS inc sells all the parts you
need.
Goto
www.3si.org and in their FAQ
section you will find a page with most of
the information you will
need.
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 08, 2002 2:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: TT Tranny question
>
My friend just recently bought a 94 VR-4 with 80 grand on
it.
Surprisingly.
> . .the tranny has a problem (gasp!) It wont hold
reverse, and 2nd gear
grinds
> a bit. He took it to my trusted
mechanic, and he told us that Mitsu will
only
> sell whole
transmissions to him. . specifically the dealer will only seel
> it-not
gears or syncros or other individual parts. Is this true?
>
> The
tranny costs $4,400. . the car is worth 12. I ask this cuz i kno
alot
of
> you guys have had problems like this. Freehold Mitsu. . the
place where i
> bought my car. . told him that there is no way he can get
anything but the
> whole tranny. . but i dont trust them completely thanx
to some prior
> dealings. . .
>
> thanx for the help
>
-mike
> 97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:31:35
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo swap problem
you weren't using the right bits.
cobalt is the stuff. I just
drilled out a sheared 8.8 crankshaft bolt
(VW, not the 3K) in situ.
like buttah.. just make sure you use a
centerpunch first to stayed
centered.
hope this
helps.
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87
Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
+> we tried
drilling and were not getting anywhere wore two bits out.
+>
+> And
the stud is on the replacment turbo. It has to com eout so we can
+>
install the turbo.
+>
+> Alan
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:31:59
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Carry on, chaps.
I started a couple of threads (overheating and
drag racing), but I have to take off for a couple of days, so I am not being
rude when I don't reply to you.
I hate to leave the overheating thread,
because I see that it's warming up. Other folks are agreeing that the problem
really does occur on 2nd gens that road race. It is NOT my imagination after
all.
I've been listening to discussions here all weekend, and I tend to
believe that Geoff and Chuck and others are right, that maybe what we need is a
REALLY good flush at a professional shop and a new cap. I'm still not sure
what's wrong with the cooling system though.
(Just kidding. I knew Jim
Floyd would say it if I didn't. Still, we probably all could use a good flush
every now and then.)
But I digress.
>From what I've been
hearing, it sounds like the cooling system degrades as the car gets older, and
the overheating threshold gets more narrow. The harder you run one, the more
coolant it loses here and there, until it is running with too little coolant,
and then it overheats all the time at the track. This lends credence to the new
cap solution (to stop it from losing coolant) and the need to really flush it
out to get rid of whatever is making it marginal. Sounds like the rad has to
come out of the car to do this properly.
Still unanswered, though: Do
high boost road racers need a $780 aluminum radiator?
Carry on without
me, and I'll check out all the responses in a few days.
Rich/slow old
poop/hot 94 VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 15:43:57
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo swap problem
looks like I have it under control. I have
(long story) a connection with a
machine shop that will fix it tommorow for
me. (for free).
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave
Monarchi" <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
To:
"Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Cc: "tam 3S"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Monday, July 08, 2002 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo swap
problem
> you weren't using the right bits. cobalt is the
stuff. I just
> drilled out a sheared 8.8 crankshaft bolt (VW, not
the 3K) in situ.
> like buttah.. just make sure you use a
centerpunch first to stayed
> centered.
>
> hope this
helps.
>
>
> Dave
> =======================
> = 95
Black 3000GT VR4 =
> = 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html>
= There is no spoon.. =
> =======================
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 15:44:22
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth for sale
I am selling my 1992 Blue Dodge Stealth ES
if anyone is interested. It needs
a new front left control arm because
the ball join is going out, and it needs
to have the paint on the back
bumper touched up. It is all stock except a
JVC cd player, and a Viper
300 alarm. Please e-mail me if you are interested
at
the68th@aol.com. I am located in St.
Paul, Minnesota.
Chris
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 16:03:38
-0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.J.Jacobs@alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECI Fuse keeps blowing
Hello,
The ECI Fuse keeps blowing on my
stock '94 VR-4. The fuse first blew
while pulling into my
neighborhood. It was a short walk to get
diagnosis tools, and the
manual. I attributted it to an "old" fuse?
The next day the fuse blew
while pulling into the driveway (much more
convenient). I expect
tomorrow it will blow as I pull into the garage!
The ECI fuse feeds only
a couple of things. Namely the MFI Relay, ECU,
and it goes somewhere
else I haven't traced where it goes yet. Any
clues as to what could
cause this? I thought about ECU CAPS, but "blown
fuses" didn't seem to
be a symptom that others had seen.
Until then, I will carry lots of extra
fuses.
- --
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4 Stock
xDSL Hardware
Development
Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:18:56
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Carry on, chaps.
> Still unanswered, though: Do
high boost road racers need a $780 aluminum radiator?
- ---
They need that
as much as they need $1500 brakes.
The interesting part is..you dont even
need the brakes if you dont realize
that you also need the
radiator.
Performance is a 'system' made of of individual
components.
Youre overheating. WAH WAH WAH. Stop crying about
it, you overheated
your brakes and didnt whine about that did you?
NO! You freakin
upgraded. :)
(no offense to anyone on the
last paragraph, say it with a smile please)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 17:18:34
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Carry on, chaps.
Agreed wholeheartedly,
Now something I started thinking about while staring a my bareblock
last
night. Does CAPS list different part numbers for the bareblock or
is it the
same across all years?
Reason I ask is the engine guy
that I am dealing with, looked at the coolant
passages and says that
enlarging them would be necessary on my car if I
really do want to safely
make over 350 AWHP. In his humble opinion they
could definitely use
some massaging similar to what the Z guys have done.
I am curious to see
if maybe mitsu changed anything over the years and then
this flaw is
compounded by a slightly out of spec
cooling
system............????????
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:33:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Carry on, chaps.
I want to offer an
alternative explanation. The 2nd gen has a 6
speed transmission that is
geared slightly lower than the 5 speed. Thus, at
the same mph, in the
same gear, the 2nd gen is turning more rpms. So, if I
drive my '93 VR4
at the track with the same lap times in the same gears, my
'94 VR4 is going
to produce more heat. My '94 is also going to produce more
torque at
the same speeds which is going to help me drive quicker lap times,
which are
going to generate more heat.
I have seen the temperature gauge move with
my '94 VR4 at the track
on only maybe two occasions. I'll go back and
check my track diary. I
think one was when I was running down a poorly
driven Ferrari. I don't
think I have seen the excursion again since I
removed the rear hood weather
stripping, but again, I'll have to
check.
[Willis, Charles E.]
I really think proper radiator
flushing is under-rated in terms of
improving cooling in the engine.
Who knows, maybe the water pump is getting air-bound and
not
circulating water at high heat loads and high
rpms.
Chuck
> I am curious to see if maybe mitsu changed
anything over the years and
> then
> this flaw is compounded by a
slightly out of spec cooling
> system............????????
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:16:05
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
PCV & High Boost
I heard in a recent discussion that the stock PCV
can handle 1 bar of boost.
What happens over 1 bar? I'm having a 'oil
in rear piping' problem right
now, and just put a brand new PCV
in.
TIA!
Ken
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth
RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad
Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig
Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN
spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
98/99
COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best (pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/
poorly tuned alky)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:29:40
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Track Overheating
My 94 gets into red on roadcourse, but I sure
don't use much 2nd gear at
Road America! It is mostly 3-4, a bit of
5th. I have FMIC, and use
16-18psi at RA.
It never boiled over, just
got into red, on a ~45F day this April; but I was
letting off some when I
noticed it to avoid a boilover.
Clearly our cooling systems are marginal for
roadcourse, and this
marginality is sometimes unmasked under mildly different
circumstances among
different people.
Also, our gauges may be nonlinear in
readout...going from 70F to 220F may
bring you to midpoint, but from 220F to
240-260 is the uppermost red zone.
Without FMIC; with Fresh
antifreeze/water (the more water % the better, as
it tranfers heat better;
pure water with Water Wetter supposedly best); with
all your frontend air
ductwork intact (so all air HAS to go through
radiator, not around/under); at
moderate HP/boost levels, many can get by
without an upgrade here.
I
don't think we need to beat ourselves on the head too much here about why.
It
is marginal. Admit it, it isn't hard :) Sometimes it works fine;
but
vary driving style, track, and what coolant/mix you have and you can
EASILY
see the sorts of differences between those WITH and WITHOUT
overheating
problems.
I plan to get a PPE radiator for my 94, and
improve the frontend ducting
with the FMIC, and use Water Wetter for
summer. This will hopefully solve
the problems for me...until I
make even more hp/speed=heat :)
JT
> This e-mail was sent to YOU,
therefore (obviously) it is YOUR PROPERTY, to
do with as YOU PLEASE.
>
This e-mail transmission does NOT contain information that is
proprietary,
privileged and/or confidential and is NOT intended exclusively
for the
person(s) to whom it is addressed. Any use, copying, retention or
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designees is strictly ENCOURAGED. If you have received this
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error, please DON'T notify the sender immediately by return e-mail
and do
what you want with copies.
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:43:30
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating
Another option you may consider to reduce
your engine temperature is water
injection. That will lower you
combustion temperature and in doing so
should reduce your engine
temperature.
Of course don't buy a $400 water injection system if all you
need is a $12
radiator cap.
Here is a link I found that gave some good
details on water injection. I
wouldn't try what the author suggests as
a home injection kit but the theory
behind it looks solid.
http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman/mannject.htmlDoug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:53:19
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECI Fuse keeps blowing
You should check for a short to ground
with a multi meter first. If you
don't get a short right away when you
test at the fuse socket, leave the
meter still attached to the fuse socket
and shake your car. If you can't
find a short right away then start
examining your wires to see if any of
them have been chaffed or broken.
You will have to start testing individual
parts after that.
If you
find a short then just follow the wire down isolating as you go until
you
find the source.
Good luck.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:11:04
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Track Overheating
I have been harping on this ever
since I saw Rich's car at Heartland
Park. He had the entire undertray
removed for his large front brake air
ducts at the time. Sure it helped
keep the brakes cooler but to what
extent did this retract from the air that
normally was going through the
radiator?
I still think you should keep
much of that undertray in position for the
pressure difference or else be
ready to measure the airflow and state
that removing the undertray does
nothing or improves airflow through a
FMIC or a normal radiator.
Also,
most of us are still running with the A/C condenser in front of
the
radiator.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 17:55:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Idle
stepper motor replaced, still not working
I cleaned the old idle motor
and the car was fine until it got warm
and then the idle went up to 4000
RPM's. I replaced the idle motor
today and as soon as I started the car the
idle went up to 3500 and
stayed there. What is the deal. Are you supposed to
reset the idle
once the motor is replaced? I could not find the procedure of
what to
do in the manual for replacing the idle motor. Can someone help
me
out? Thanks, Casey
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:29:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating
No..Idont buy that as a solution at
all.
Intake temps are irrelevant. Were talking about the cooling
system, which
is 99.99% infuenced by the amount of energy the motor
produces.
Im willing to bet heavily that water injection will INCREASE
the amount of
energy produced by the motor..because efficiency is raised in
the intake
charge.
More charge = more fuel = more bang = more
heat.
On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, dakken wrote:
> Another option you
may consider to reduce your engine temperature is water
> injection.
That will lower you combustion temperature and in doing so
> should reduce
your engine temperature.
>
> Of course don't buy a $400 water
injection system if all you need is a $12
> radiator cap.
>
>
Here is a link I found that gave some good details on water injection.
I
> wouldn't try what the author suggests as a home injection kit but the
theory
> behind it looks solid.
>
>
http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman/mannject.html>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:30:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Track Overheating
The undertray is crucial..in a
proper cooling system.
On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> I have been harping on this ever since I saw Rich's car at
Heartland
> Park. He had the entire undertray removed for his large
front brake air
> ducts at the time. Sure it helped keep the brakes
cooler but to what
> extent did this retract from the air that normally
was going through the
> radiator?
>
> I still think you
should keep much of that undertray in position for the
> pressure
difference or else be ready to measure the airflow and state
> that
removing the undertray does nothing or improves airflow through a
> FMIC
or a normal radiator.
>
> Also, most of us are still running with
the A/C condenser in front of
> the radiator.
>
>
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:28:09
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Question
Check the vacuum hose that goes to the clutch
booster. See if it is
leaking, rotten, or crimped. It has a check
valve in it, which might be
sticking. You could clean the
inside.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
stealth@quixnet.net
[SMTP:stealth@quixnet.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 7:02
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Question
>
> Greetings all,
>
> A couple months ago, you folks helped diagnose a clutch problem as a
blown
> slave cylinder. That's been replaced, as well as the actual
clutch
> itself, and all is *almost* well.
>
> When the car
is cold in the morning, I get full normal clutch pedal
> resistance
throughout its travel. But after a few minutes of driving, and
> for
the rest of the day thereafter, the pedal resistance changes to very
>
light at the top and very heavy at the bottom of its travel. It's
almost
> painful on my foot.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:46:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
Exothermic? I doubt it. Where
is the heat of reaction coming from?
The exhaust gas is turning the
impeller vanes, the impeller vanes are not
compressing the exhaust gas.
The intake gas is being pressurized and
compressed, so it is increasing in
temperature, but that is why there are
intercoolers, to remove that extra
heat at the higher density.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Rivenburg, Pete [SMTP:privenburg@firstam.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 11:35 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
>
> The hot gas coming out
of the engine is dropping in pressure as it leaves
> the port, as it
encounters the impeller vanes it comes under intense
> pressure again
causing an exothermic action.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:53:56
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
never heard of an exothermic "action" in
Thermodynamics in Physical
Chemistry, Biophysics, and Heat Transfer courses
in Nuclear Engineering, but
I would love to read about it!
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[SMTP:jlucius@stealth316.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 1:29
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
>
> Gas is compressed on the
*compressor side* of the turbo. And that is an
> adiabatic process. But
regardless, additional heat (energy) is not
> produced!
> The
temperature changes. You do know the difference, yes? Basic physics.
>
> There is NO compression on the turbine side. There is no heat (energy)
> *produced* on the turbine side. Sorry. Crap conclusion stands.
:)
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:50:10
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle stepper motor went bad, dealer says...
Sounds like bs to
me. There is no reason that the ECU has to be replaced
along with the
IDC motor.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Casey Spivey
[SMTP:spiv99@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 12:54 PM
>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Idle stepper motor went bad, dealer says...
>
>
When I would start my '91 Vr-4 the idle would not stay up and it
> would
die. When I took it out of gear while driving the rpm's would
> drop
before I could get the car stopped and it would die. Yesterday
> while
pulling in to a gas station I pressed the clutch, but it didn't
> die.
Instead the RPM's fluctuated between 1K and 2K. So I self
> diagnosed this
as the idle control motor, stepper motor, as being
> bad. Well the dealer
says that usually it cooks the computer and it
> will have to be replaced
as well. If not the new contol motor won't
> work because the computer
will burn it up. I have never heard of
> anyone replaceing the ECU with
the stepper motor. What do you guys
> think? Thanks
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:46:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Pressure
How about replacing the oil pump? I have not
been into my 3000GT engine, but I know on my old Jeep it is as easy as removing
the oil pan, removing the 2 bolts that hold the oil pump and replacing it with a
new pump. I also have low oil pressure at idle (56,000 miles). Would oil pump
replacement significantly increase the oil pressure at idle? Les
Gemar
Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net> wrote: Just to fill
in the blanks, pressure depends upon the oil pump. The pump is
just two gears
that mesh tightly. As they turn they force oil into the oil
system. As the
engine gets older the oil pump gears start to wear. They
almost never wear
all the way out or break. Lower oil pressure results from
slop accumulating
in the way the gears mesh and they then don't pump as much
oil. If you have
any oil pressure at all then the pump is working. It also
follows that at
idle rpm's pressure will be low. I installed a pressure
guage on my old
Harley 74 and when it idled the guage read zero. It ran fine
for many years
just that way.
One way to up the pressure in a worn engine is by using
heavier oil. 20-50
shouldn't hurt our cars. Likewise, a little bardohl should
do no harm. I am
not well versed on turbos so if anyone reading this thinks I
am in error
please chime in.
Andy
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Willis, Charles E."
To: "'Michael Neill'" ;
Sent:
Monday, July 08, 2002 10:13 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Pressure
| As
far as I can tell there is no "normal" mark. Oil pressure is
dependent
on
| rpm, and the real question is "do you have any oil
pressure?", if "yes"
| that's good, if no that's bad. My first gen has much
higher oil pressure
on
| the stock gauge at the same rpms as my 2nd
gen.
| Chuck
|
| > -----Original Message-----
| > From:
Michael Neill [SMTP:dblxx@bellsouth.net]
| > Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002
10:30 AM
| > To:
Team3S@team3s.com| > Subject: Team3S:
Oil Pressure
| >
| > Just purchased a 1997 VR-4 and while driving it
home noticed that around
| > 2,000 RPM Oil pressure gauge drops down below
the normal mark. When you
| > accelerate, the needle rises once again. Oil
level is normal, could this
| > be
| > a faulty oil pressure sensor,
or something more serious?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:56:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Pressure
Nah..big effort required.
Front cover
plate holds the pump.
On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Les Gemar wrote:
>
> How about replacing the oil pump? I have not been into my 3000GT
engine, but I know on my old Jeep it is as easy as removing the oil pan,
removing the 2 bolts that hold the oil pump and replacing it with a new pump. I
also have low oil pressure at idle (56,000 miles). Would oil pump replacement
significantly increase the oil pressure at idle? Les
Gemar
> Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net> wrote: Just to fill
in the blanks, pressure depends upon the oil pump. The pump is
> just two
gears that mesh tightly. As they turn they force oil into the oil
>
system. As the engine gets older the oil pump gears start to wear. They
>
almost never wear all the way out or break. Lower oil pressure results
from
> slop accumulating in the way the gears mesh and they then don't
pump as much
> oil. If you have any oil pressure at all then the pump is
working. It also
> follows that at idle rpm's pressure will be low. I
installed a pressure
> guage on my old Harley 74 and when it idled the
guage read zero. It ran fine
> for many years just that way.
> One
way to up the pressure in a worn engine is by using heavier oil. 20-50
>
shouldn't hurt our cars. Likewise, a little bardohl should do no harm. I
am
> not well versed on turbos so if anyone reading this thinks I am in
error
> please chime in.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:55:01
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Spark plus wires at the 60K tune up
Hi guys im sorry to bother you with 2
questions in one day i hope ya dont
mind.
Its almost time for the 60K
tune up-so i figured now is a good time to
upgrade the spark plugs and
wires. The car is a DOHC N/A with a K&N FIPK and
intake pipe. . and i
plan on a borla exhaust later-i was looking at Magnecor
wires and the NGK
double platinum plugs. Is this set up over kill for my
engine? Will i
even feel the difference? a gain in fuel milage, or more
power? Do they last
longer? Or am i paying cuz they are a pretty red color
and will match my
car?
So with the plugs, wires, and timing belt. . i should be all set
right?
Hoping for another sweet 60K out of her.
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:02:59
-0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Track Overheating
I run this stuff:
http://www.evanscooling.com/main31.htmSo
far so good. It absorbs some serious heat and doesn't boil until 375F.
Jump
in a cold car and it seems it's at operating temperature in about 75%
of the
time that it required with conventional coolant. I've also noticed
that water
temps go up much quicker when you get on it then drop quickly as
well. Better
to have the heat in the coolant than in the engine. Just
cruizing in stop and
go city traffic the coolant temps have been floating
around 207-210F with the
A/C blastin in 105-108F ambient temps here in AZ. I
haven't doe much highway
cruising with the datalogger hooked up yet.
I hope to get some real
results with this stuff at the dragstrip as soon as
I get my vibration issue
figured out. With the boost over 17.0 psi my car
starts knocking lightly in
4th gear just before the traps. Seems like the
combination of high load and
built up internal heat just kills it. One of
the big selling points of this
stuff is that it's supposed to squash
localized boiling around the cylinder
liners that precludes heat transfer
out of the cylinders. We'll
see...
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1
on 93 Octane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 20:18:32
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question
Geoff: Does our oil pump work on the two
gear meshing principal. How hard
is to get to. I have not had the pleasure of
actually changing mine, and I
really don't want to.
Andy
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
'stealth@quixnet.net' <
stealth@quixnet.net>;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, July 08, 2002 6:35 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
Question
>Check the vacuum hose that goes to the clutch booster.
See if it is
>leaking, rotten, or crimped. It has a check valve in
it, which might be
>sticking. You could clean the
inside.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:
stealth@quixnet.net
[SMTP:stealth@quixnet.net]
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 7:02
AM
>> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Question
>>
>> Greetings
all,
>>
>> A couple months ago, you folks helped diagnose a
clutch problem as a
blown
>> slave cylinder. That's been
replaced, as well as the actual clutch
>> itself, and all is *almost*
well.
>>
>> When the car is cold in the morning, I get full
normal clutch pedal
>> resistance throughout its travel. But
after a few minutes of driving,
and
>> for the rest of the day
thereafter, the pedal resistance changes to very
>> light at the top
and very heavy at the bottom of its travel. It's almost
>>
painful on my foot.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:23:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating
HOld off on that guys..weve been having
issues in the T/A with this stuff.
Heres what ive learned from people who use
it:
- ---
Ive been hearing here & there, that perhaps you need to
upgrade to a
high flow elec. watwer pump to use NPG properly.
I've
read you are supposed to use an Even's water pump designed for their
NPG
coolant. Also your not supposed to use a thermostat at all.
>
I've read you are supposed to use an Evan's water pump
> designed for
their NPG coolant. Also your not supposed
> to use a thermostat at
all.
- ---
The T/A overheats massively with evans..it was an expensive
step
backwards.
On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Trevor James wrote:
> I
run this stuff:
>
http://www.evanscooling.com/main31.htm>
So far so good. It absorbs some serious heat and doesn't boil until
375F.
> Jump in a cold car and it seems it's at operating temperature in
about 75%
> of the time that it required with conventional coolant. I've
also noticed
> that water temps go up much quicker when you get on it then
drop quickly as
> well. Better to have the heat in the coolant than in the
engine. Just
> cruizing in stop and go city traffic the coolant temps have
been floating
> around 207-210F with the A/C blastin in 105-108F ambient
temps here in AZ. I
> haven't doe much highway cruising with the
datalogger hooked up yet.
>
> I hope to get some real results with
this stuff at the dragstrip as soon as
> I get my vibration issue figured
out. With the boost over 17.0 psi my car
> starts knocking lightly in 4th
gear just before the traps. Seems like the
> combination of high load and
built up internal heat just kills it. One of
> the big selling points of
this stuff is that it's supposed to squash
> localized boiling around the
cylinder liners that precludes heat transfer
> out of the cylinders. We'll
see...
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1 on 93 Octane
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:20:13
-0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Track Overheating
Check your info before calling everyone off...
There
are TWO products here:
NPG is their old formula that required water pump,
radiator, and thermostat
changes depending on your vehicle.
NPG+
(notice the plus) is their new formula that doesn't require any changes
to
the system because it's thinner than the old NPG. It's viscocity is
much
closer to a normal coolant mixture. The only thing the reccomend is
changing
to a zero PSI cap. Supposidly NPG+ transefers heat more efficiently
also.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1
on 93 octane
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 08, 2002 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Track
Overheating
> HOld off on that guys..weve been having issues in the
T/A with this stuff.
> Heres what ive learned from people who use
it:
>
--------------snip--------------->
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 21:07:46
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
> No..Idont buy that as a
solution at all.
>
> Intake temps are irrelevant. Were talking
about the cooling system, which
> is 99.99% infuenced by the amount of
energy the motor produces.
>
> Im willing to bet heavily that water
injection will INCREASE the amount of
> energy produced by the
motor..because efficiency is raised in the intake
>
charge.
>
> More charge = more fuel = more bang = more
heat.
I have found a few sources that say otherwise. The one that I
cited earlier
and here is another one that spells it out:
"Once inside
the combustion chamber, the water is fully vaporized into
steam. This
vaporization absorbs a tremendous amount of heat from the
combustion
reaction, helping cool the engine internally to prevent glowing
hot spots
that can initiate detonation."
The complete article can be read at:
http://www.se-r.net/about/200sx/scc/feb99/water_injection.htmlI
thought that the only benefit of WI was to reduce knock. I now see
there
are many more benefits to it. I will be installing a WI system in
my car
soon.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 21:20:11
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dome
light coming on under accel!!!
Hi All,
I was wondering if any of you
ever a problem where under accelleration,
the dome light comes on! I
decelerate, and it's off. Over bumps and
stuff, it's alright,
and I can't shake the doors at all to get the
light to come on at a
stop. It's pretty darn annoying.
I'm thinking i've gotta change the
door light switches, but is it
possible it's something else
elsewhere?
Thanks
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 23:23:58
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question
> Does our oil pump work on the two gear
meshing principal.
> How hard is to get to. I have not had the pleasure of
actually
> changing mine, and I really don't want to.
Yes, it does
- and it is a nasty part to get to. You need to do everything
required
to do the timing belt, plus drop the oil pan and associated
external oil
parts (filter/diverter housing) and such to remove it. The
crank
sprocket needs to come off too, and usually doesn't come off the crank
very
easily.
No fun, unless you are rebuilding your motor out of the
car. I'd personally
verify that the oil pressure actually is low with a
"real" pressure gauge
hooked in where the factory sender sits on the back of
the block before
replacing the oil pump. If your oil light is coming on
though, that's a bad
sign.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 23:38:04
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
> I thought that the only
benefit of WI was to reduce knock. I now see
there
> are many
more benefits to it. I will be installing a WI system in my car
>
soon.
Just make sure you have a way to detect if the pump isn't putting
out
pressure like it is supposed to, and that your turn-on switch is
highly
reliable. If the water doesn't spray, the motor goes boom and
puts a big
hole in your wallet where money used to reside.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:22:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating
Thats what we have in
there...+.
Cools _worse_..than plain water did.
On Mon, 8 Jul
2002, Trevor James wrote:
> Check your info before calling everyone
off...
> There are TWO products here:
>
> NPG is their old
formula that required water pump, radiator, and thermostat
> changes
depending on your vehicle.
>
> NPG+ (notice the plus) is their new
formula that doesn't require any changes
> to the system because it's
thinner than the old NPG. It's viscocity is much
> closer to a normal
coolant mixture. The only thing the reccomend is changing
> to a zero PSI
cap. Supposidly NPG+ transefers heat more efficiently also.
>
>
Trevor
> 96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1 on 93
octane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:23:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
Because the water is already
vapourized when it enters the chamber..it has
nothing left to
give.
Using water as an internal coolant..obviously is too much water,
there
shouldnt be any liquid H2O left at that point.
On Mon, 8 Jul
2002, dakken wrote:
> > No..Idont buy that as a solution at
all.
> >
> > Intake temps are irrelevant. Were talking
about the cooling system, which
> > is 99.99% infuenced by the amount
of energy the motor produces.
> >
> > Im willing to bet
heavily that water injection will INCREASE the amount of
> > energy
produced by the motor..because efficiency is raised in the intake
> >
charge.
> >
> > More charge = more fuel = more bang = more
heat.
>
> I have found a few sources that say otherwise. The
one that I cited earlier
> and here is another one that spells it
out:
>
> "Once inside the combustion chamber, the water is fully
vaporized into
> steam. This vaporization absorbs a tremendous amount of
heat from the
> combustion reaction, helping cool the engine internally to
prevent glowing
> hot spots that can initiate detonation."
>
> The complete article can be read at:
>
http://www.se-r.net/about/200sx/scc/feb99/water_injection.html>
> I thought that the only benefit of WI was to reduce knock. I now
see there
> are many more benefits to it. I will be installing a WI
system in my car
> soon.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:13:01
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECI Fuse keeps blowing
You should probably pull your ECU and
get it rebuilt before it goes faulty,
save you $$$ too. It might even fix
your blown fuse problem.
Steve
> Hello,
> The ECI Fuse keeps
blowing on my stock '94 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:16:52
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Track Overheating
I take it that your FMIC is
mounted directly in front of the radiator.
Surely that would reduce your
engines cooling ability.
Steve
> My 94 gets into red on
roadcourse, but I sure don't use much 2nd gear at
> Road America! It
is mostly 3-4, a bit of 5th. I have FMIC, and use
> 16-18psi at
RA.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 05:44:23
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Track Overheating
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
>
your FMIC is mounted directly in front of the radiator.
> Surely that
would reduce your engines cooling ability.
You're right Steve, it
does. And the AC condenser ALSO does, on all of our
cars.
I
naturally listed the 2 major confounding variables (not typical for
most
people) in my car as issues--the FMIC, and that the ductwork
changes
entailed thereby need to be re-done/made better. Still, the
point is our
cooling systems/radiator are MARGINAL for roadcourse
work.
Driving around in '150F temperatures with the AC on' is NOT as hard
on it as
a ~25% efficient engine sending 75% of 300-600 hp worth of heat into
the
little thin radiator for E X T E N D E D periods on roadcourse. I
think we
all pretty much recognize the "driving in heat with AC on" as a not
very
tough test...a test, but NOT as hard asall-out roadcourse
work.
Everybody does not NEED a bigger radiator etc. because not everybody is
into
that, and some are skating by without problems yet.
On my 2001
Sierra diesel truck I can "totally" plug off the front grille
areas including
lower bumper, with the "winter" frontend bra designed to
help heat the engine
faster in winter...tow my car around on trailer, laying
on the throttle
etc...and that truck does NOT overheat/get anywhere NEAR
the
"red".
Because: it is NOT marginal, it has PLENTY of
reserve...maybe even
OVERdesigned.
As enthusiasts, we (usually) aspire to
Better, desire Overdesigned, and
hopefully try to head off marginal issues
BEFORE we personally have to
suffer; that's why this internet deal is so
cool! (joke...cool...oops sorry
:)
Our cooling systems are marginal.
A factor here, a factor there, and some
are unmasking the problem...even on
some relatively STOCK cars.
> > My 94 gets into red on roadcourse,
but I sure don't use much 2nd gear at
> > Road America! It is
mostly 3-4, a bit of 5th. I have FMIC, and use
> > 16-18psi at
RA.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:39:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark plus wires at the 60K tune up
> Or am i paying
cuz they are a pretty red color
> and will match my car?
[Willis,
Charles E.] Yes, and NGK makes some pretty blue wires if
you want to go
for a more patriotic motif.
> So with the plugs, wires, and timing
belt. . i should be all set right?
> Hoping for another sweet 60K out of
her.
[Willis, Charles E.] also replace the water pump. the timing
belt
oughta include replacing the belt tensioner. you might consider
replacing
the idler pulleys at the same time while everything is off. I
lost them on
my car before 100K.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:45:56
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Replacement advice fast...
Guys,
It seems as if my
alternator has taken a huge dump on my 94 VR-4.. This
happened on my SL
at about the same mileage so this comes as no surprise..
However, My local
satan dealer whom I used to trust until a recent buyout is
quoting me
$500+... This includes $331.00 just for the alternator.. The
rest is of
course the belt and satans labor... My question is; Am I
better
off letting satan install his OEM for $331 or am I better off looking
for an
aftermarket non-OEM part that will generate more juice and might be
close to
the same price.. Any advice would be appreciated
here..
Thanks,
Scott
94 VR-4
K&N FIPK, Borla,
Apexi-AVCR,Greddy S-Type
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 07:41:31
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Replacement advice fast...
Unless you're running a high output stereo
system there is no need to look
for an alternator with more amps --- look for
a rebuilt unit at your local parts
store or find an automotive electrical
repair shop and have it rebuilt. Some
of the national chains have lifetime
warranties on parts they sell.
Jim Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 09, 2002 7:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Replacement advice
fast...
> Guys,
>
> It seems as
if my alternator has taken a huge dump on my 94 VR-4.. This
>
happened on my SL at about the same mileage so this comes as no
surprise..
> However, My local satan dealer whom I used to trust until a
recent buyout is
> quoting me $500+... This includes $331.00 just
for the alternator.. The
> rest is of course the belt and satans
labor... My question is; Am I better
> off letting satan
install his OEM for $331 or am I better off looking for an
> aftermarket
non-OEM part that will generate more juice and might be close to
> the
same price.. Any advice would be appreciated here..
>
>
Thanks,
> Scott
> 94 VR-4
> K&N FIPK, Borla,
Apexi-AVCR,Greddy S-Type
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 07:49:33
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Track Overheating WI Solution
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Because the water is already vapourized when it enters the chamber..it
has
> nothing left to give.
It's vaporized into small droplets in
the intake plenum and starts to vaporize at
that point but doesn't complete
the process until it hits the combustion chamber
so some cooling of the
combustion temps will result along with cooling of the
intake air temps. I
assume, but don't have direct info that the EGT's drop with
the addition of
H2O/alcohol --- I know they drop with the addition of propane,
or at least it
is reported that they drop.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 07:57:03
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacement advice fast...
$331 !!! Geeze. I
payed $340 for a 200 amp alternator for my Celica's
stereo. I would
shop around if I were you. The alternator is not very
difficult to
remove. You may consider replacing it yourself if you feel
confident
about it.
If you have any automotive electrical shops in your area, give
them a call
and get a quote on alternator prices. Also, a good car
stereo shops will
know some suppliers of good alternators.
Definately
call the good guy vendors on the Team 3S web page. I have had
nothing
but good experiences working with them.
It may take you an hour or more
to call around but you should end up saving
a few hundred
dollars.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 11:07:45
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Replacement advice fast...
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
To: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 09, 2002 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacement advice
fast...
> OK,
>
> I Knew I would leave
something out.. Yes, I have an aftermarket,
> High-output stereo..
My VR-4 has about 88K on it.. So far the consensus
is
> to go
elsewhere.. I should mention a couple other issues.. The car is
in
> satans garage and of course is immobile w/o leaving a jump box hooked
up
to
> it.. I do however pay for AAA and I take advantage of the
free towing..
>
> Should I tell satan
to stick it and have the car taken to another sho
> after making some
phone calls, or just bite the bullett and let satan have
> at it with OEM
replacement or bring satan a different alternator that I
find
>
somewhere else?
>
> Thanks again,
> Scott
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:01:59
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Replacement advice fast...
The dealer won't warranty their work if you
use an alternator from
another source. Find a shop that specializes in auto
electrics ---
talk to a local stereo installer about who they might
recommend.
Jim
Berry
========================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
>
> >
OK,
> >
> > I Knew I would leave something out..
Yes, I have an aftermarket,
> > High-output stereo.. My VR-4 has
about 88K on it.. So far the consensus
> is
> > to go
elsewhere.. I should mention a couple other issues.. The car is
in
> > satans garage and of course is immobile w/o leaving a jump box
hooked up
> to
> > it.. I do however pay for AAA and I take
advantage of the free towing..
> >
>
> Should I tell satan to stick it and have the
car taken to another sho
> > after making some phone calls, or just
bite the bullett and let satan have
> > at it with OEM replacement or
bring satan a different alternator that I
> find
> > somewhere
else?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:00:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
Well..either way..if it does
work that well, its still a poor mans,
half-assed, solution to the problem
called UPGRADE YOUR RADIATOR.
On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, fastmax
wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff
Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> > Because the water is already vapourized when it enters
the chamber..it has
> > nothing left to give.
>
> It's
vaporized into small droplets in the intake plenum and starts to vaporize
at
> that point but doesn't complete the process until it hits the
combustion chamber
> so some cooling of the combustion temps will result
along with cooling of the
> intake air temps. I assume, but don't have
direct info that the EGT's drop with
> the addition of H2O/alcohol --- I
know they drop with the addition of propane,
> or at least it is reported
that they drop.
>
>
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:05:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
*laugh*
True, but im
never suprised by what I see people doing..that only skirts
around the real
problem. Doesnt matter what list it is im on..it happens.
On Tue, 9
Jul 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> I disagree - a poor man
can't afford the water injection system either.
>
> I agree - focus
on the radiator, make it more efficient (clean it) or
> upgrade
it.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 09,
2002 11:00 AM
> > To: fastmax
> > Cc: dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
> >
> >
Well..either way..if it does work that well, its still a poor mans,
> >
half-assed, solution to the problem called UPGRADE YOUR RADIATOR.
> >
> > On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, fastmax wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Geoff
Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> >
> > >
> > > > Because the water is
already vapourized when it enters the chamber..it
> > has
> >
> > nothing left to give.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 12:11:39
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
Speaking of which, I am not
knocking what PPE has offered but has anyone
checked with fluidyne to see if
they would manufacture something for us?
Reason I ask is
moroso is relatively close to my house in CT and I am
talking with them about
fabbing up a 6 or 8pt roll cage for our cars.
So I could also see if
an upgraded radiatoris something they might be
willing to undertake if there
is enough interest.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002
12:05 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: fastmax; dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
>
>
*laugh*
>
> True, but im never suprised by what I see people
doing..that only skirts
> around the real problem. Doesnt matter
what list it is im on..it happens.
>
> On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
>
> > I disagree - a poor man can't afford the
water injection system either.
> >
> > I agree - focus on the
radiator, make it more efficient (clean it) or
> > upgrade it.
>
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July
09, 2002 11:00 AM
> > > To: fastmax
> > > Cc: dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
> > >
> > > Well..either way..if it does work that well, its still a poor
mans,
> > > half-assed, solution to the problem called UPGRADE YOUR
RADIATOR.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:07:54
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Track Overheating WI Solution
The purpose of water injection is to
control detonation by reducing
IAT's or by reducing combustion temps --- I
don't think any of the
proponents claim that it'll cure
overheating.
Jim
Berry
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Cc:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; "dakken"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 09, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Track Overheating WI
Solution
> *laugh*
>
> True, but im never suprised by
what I see people doing..that only skirts
> around the real problem.
Doesnt matter what list it is im on..it happens.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:23:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
Wayne:
What did I sell
you..it didnt cost THAT much when I bought it new.
On Tue, 9 Jul 2002,
Furman, Russell wrote:
> Speaking of which, I am not knocking what PPE
has offered but has anyone
> checked with fluidyne to see if they would
manufacture something for us?
>
> Reason I ask is
moroso is relatively close to my house in CT and I am
> talking with them
about fabbing up a 6 or 8pt roll cage for our cars.
> So I
could also see if an upgraded radiatoris something they might be
> willing
to undertake if there is enough interest.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:51:55
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Replacement advice fast...
> I should mention a couple other
issues.. The car is in
> satans garage and of course is immobile w/o
leaving a
> jump box hooked up toit...
You can drive the car
without an alternator... just get a good (charged)
battery and don't
use the headlights. Have it towed home (or drive it home
if you have a
good battery) and use a battery charger to keep the battery
charged while you
decided what to do about the alternator. To Hell with
Satan
:-)
- --Erik
[Used a battery charger on a VR-4 with no
alternator for a month]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:01:00
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
> I assume, but don't have
direct info that the EGT's
> drop with the addition of H2O/alcohol --- I
know
> they drop with the addition of propane,
> or at least it is
reported that they drop.
If no one beats me to it, I'll settle the EGT
with WI issue. I need to find
some free time to reinstall my WI/Alky
system on my new VR-4. Then I have
to get brave enough to pull the
!@#%@#$ turbos and tap the manifolds for EGT
probes
(or close my eyes and drill/tap with the motor running).
Once
that's done I can turn my WI on and off with a toggle switch and
try
different flow rates, injection thresholds, and boost pressures to see
what
happens... I'll be injecting near the TB, so I don't think
there'll be much
intercooling going on and that most of the vaporization (and
heat
absorption) will take place in the combustion chamber during/after
the
combustion event. If so, I'd expect a reduction in EGTs
proportional to the
WI flow rate.
- --Erik
'95 White VR-4 [mostly
stock for now:-( ]
'95 Black VR-4 [KIA, SOLD, Bye-Bye]
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:02:35
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Idle stepper motor replaced, still not working
> I cleaned the
old idle motor and the car was fine until it got warm
> and then the idle
went up to 4000 RPM's. I replaced the idle motor
> today and as soon as I
started the car the idle went up to 3500 and
> stayed there.
With
an idle that high, have you checked for a vacuum leak or a missing idle
speed
screw?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:52:46
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
I disagree - a poor man can't
afford the water injection system either.
I agree - focus on the
radiator, make it more efficient (clean it) or
upgrade it.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 11:00
AM
> To: fastmax
> Cc: dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Track Overheating WI Solution
>
> Well..either
way..if it does work that well, its still a poor mans,
> half-assed,
solution to the problem called UPGRADE YOUR RADIATOR.
>
> On Tue, 9
Jul 2002, fastmax wrote:
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> > > Because the water is already vapourized when it enters
the chamber..it
> has
> > > nothing left to
give.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:16:03
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Track Overheating
I have been selectively following the
overheating thread. Has anyone
looked into fitting a radiator from another
car (maybe from Jack T's
Sierra? ;-) That would probably be the biggest bang
for the buck.
All we need is a thicker radiator with the same or slightly
smaller
frontal dimensions. Our inlets/outlets are pretty standard, so flex
hoses
would attach to any similar-looking replacement radiator. I imagine
major
radiator manufacturers have catalogs that classify their radiators
by
height, width and thickness. This is where I would start if or when I
get
the now notorious 2nd gen overheating problem.
I solved an
overheating problem on my old Chrysler van last year. Replaced
a single row
radiator with a double row for only $159. Worked as marvel.
There was an
extra heavy-duty 3-row radiator available, but it an
additional $100. I did
not need it.
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#893
***************************************