Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, July 2
2002 Volume 01 : Number
887
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Jul 2002 23:01:36 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: datalogger reads rear o2 ?
thanks for the link
My
main question is actually: if one of the front fuel injectors was not
working
properly, the datalogger would not know this, and would read the
rich signal
from the rear injectors, correct?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 10:49 PM
To: Bill
vp
Cc: team3/S
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: datalogger reads rear o2
?
> I glanced through some TMO archives, and that seemed
> to be
the consensus, correct? I assume this holds
> true for the
pocketlogger as well. Could
> someone tell me what methodology the
o2 sensor
> uses to get its voltage reading?
Methodology?
Like how does it work?
http://www.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:14:57
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Sizing (Somewhat OT)
Okay, this is somewhat off
topic...
Just how exactly does turbo sizing work? I've been searching
all over
to figure it out. Can someone help me out or point me in the
right
direction? Thanks.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 21:21:19
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Karman Numbers
I've been playing with my SAFC display and have
gotten into the habit of
judging my engine load and output from the Karman
Frequency numbers.
Does anyone know an approximate amount of air that is
coming into my engine
from the frequency numbers? About how much
air is 50 at idle, 500 at low
rpm, 1000, 1500 etc?
This might be
useful for tuning.
Also, I don't know if the numbers I am seeing are
before or after the SAFC
correction.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi
AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3"
cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled
rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, DSM 450cc injectors,
Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 01:30:14
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Mount Bolts
Does anyone know what size the bolt is for the
engine mount that is in
front of the battery? I really haven't tried to
look at whatever it is
yet, so this is coming from my more mechanical
friend. Any help would
be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
-
-Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 13:36:29
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: datalogger reads rear o2 ?
>> My main question is
actually: if one of the front fuel
>> injectors was not working
properly, the datalogger
>> would not know this, and would read the
rich signal
>> from the rear injectors, correct?
Correct. The
datalogger only displays the rear O2 sensor. However, the ECM
monitors and
uses both, as should every performance-minded owner.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-arm1s.htm
http://www.stealth316.com/2-arm1instal.htmYou
can easily verify which O2 sensor the datalogger is displaying by just
disconnecting the O2 harness connection in the engine bay. Locations are
shown
on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-o2connloc.htmFor
more information on how the O2 sensor works, check out the links
under
"Emissions" on the Tech Page at my web site. A Search on
www.google.com could also be
productive.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To: <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Cc: "team3/S"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 01, 2002 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: datalogger reads rear
o2 ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 13:39:31
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Sizing (Somewhat OT)
Some details on my web pages
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htmhttp://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htmThe
magazine Sport Compact Car ran an excellent series of articles about
turbos
in the following issues: July 2001, August 2001, September 2001,
October
2001, and July 2002.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, July
01, 2002 9:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Sizing (Somewhat OT)
Okay,
this is somewhat off topic...
Just how exactly does turbo sizing work?
I've been searching all over
to figure it out. Can someone help me out
or point me in the right
direction? Thanks.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 13:46:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Dustin Lenz <
deviousz@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3/S Non-specific Auto Transmission problem
Hopefully I can
ask a question not specific to our
cars. A good friend of mine has a
newer Honda Accord
that has something acting up with the auto tranny.
Here is his description:
Like when you shift gears on an automatic,
and the
car tends to jump or feels like it stalls before
actually getting
in
gear????
Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer.
- -Dustin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:43:47
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need help desperately with turbos and dealership
Ok, some of you
may remember my SAGA with problems with my turbo's after
KELLY MITSUBISHI in
ALLENTOWN Pennsylvania, installed a new
transmission. So in the process
of installing the transmission they
broke the downpipe and o2 sensor which
they replaced under warranty even
though the car is out. So I am
driving the car and the most boost I see
is .34 kg/cm2 which is VERY low,
stock should be .65 kg/cm2. I removed
the vacuum hose from the
wastegate solenoid and could only get .45
kg/cm2 when it should be 1.00
kg/cm2 when both turbo's are working. The
car has a K&N FIPK and Greddy
Type S bov. I took the car back to Kelly
and they said they would look
over it. They had it for several days and
called back saying they
checked both turbos and they both were perfectly
fine. (They said they
just disconnected the hoses coming into them and
turns the fins by hand) but
found a vacuum hose that was on wrong and
they would chalk it up to them
having done it wrong when they did the
trans. I drove the car and I am only
seeing .45 kg/cm2 of boost. I look
under the hood and GUESS what KELLY
MITSUBISHI did? They capped the
wastegate actuator solenoid nipple
where the vacuum line comes in and
left the vacuum hose sit out!!! So I
called them and said I wanted the
manager and technician to see this. I
took pictures and everything
beforehand. I then went and showed the
manager, how the technician
couldn't even follow a simple diagram on the hood
of the car for the
vacuum lines. The technician admitted to do it and
said it was the only
way to get more boost because of all the shit I had done
to the car! I
told them that if both turbo's were working that would
have caused the
car to knock! I then asked the tech is he had checked
both turbo's and
he couldn't even look me in the face and tell me yes. They
told me to
sue them and get off their property.
So I need to know of a
GREAT turbocharged engine mechanic around
the Pottstown, Reading, and
Allentown area in Pennsylvania. The engine
has a horrible tap now that
it didn't before. I was thinking of taking
it down to Extreme
Motorsports, but I have never dealt with them nor
known anyone who has.
Are they any good? Any better on the east coast?
Does anyone have any
suggestions as to how to handle it? I plan on
talking with Mitsubishi,
The Better Business Bureau, and my lawyer
tomorrow . Hopefully also a
turbo shop that someone recommends or
extreme. Thanks for all of your
time and assistance and PLEASE steer
clear of Kelly Mitsubishi in Allentown
Pa.
Joshua Prince
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:58:17
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help desperately with turbos and dealership
Does anyone
know if by taking that wastegate actuator vacuum line off,
if it could have
damaged the engine in any way? I am not boosting
anywhere near 1.0 bar,
so I didn't think so.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 22:07:06
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Need help desperately with turbos and dealership
> Does anyone
know if by taking that wastegate actuator
> vacuum line off, if it could
have damaged the engine
> in any way? I am not boosting anywhere
near 1.0
> bar, so I didn't think so.
Shouldn't have. Sounds
like your BOV is maybe adjusted
too loose though. It could also be an
intake leak
somewhere after the turbos. I made a tester out of
some PVC pipe for about $3. It is a 2.5" (I think) Tee
connector
with a cap on one end and short pipes coming
out the other straight ends
which I hook up to the
inlet hoses to the turbos. The rubber piece
that the
MAF attaches to doesn't get used during testing.
You should
be able to easily pressurize the intake with
an air compressor (not a tire
pump, but a real
compressor). If not, there's a leak. It could
be a
hole poked in a hose, or a coupling that's bad, or a
loose clamp,
or a vacuum hose routed wrong somewhere,
or any number of
things.
Good luck, it sounds like that dealer is pretty much
incompetent. Run away!
Extreme Motorsports is good on DSM
cars. Most of that
knowlege should work for 3/S cars, so I'd trust
them.
Might be tough to get in there right now with the
Shootout
right around the corner though.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
Does anyone know if by taking that wastegate actuator vacuum line off,
>
if it could have damaged the engine in any way? I am not boosting
>
anywhere near 1.0 bar, so I didn't think so.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 16:52:10
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Camber plates...
Does anyone know where to buy the camber plates for our
cars? Also, is
it possible to use them with stock struts?
One
more thing, I see several sets of TEINs out there, some offering
them with
the pillow ball mounts and others without. What's the
advantage of the
pillow ball mounts (as well as function).
Thanks
Damon
Vipers in my
sights... but pulling away! Damn you snakes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 18:57:42
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pearl white R/T bumper...
after installing my stillen DP (What a bitch,
those damn holes don't
line up at all), i've decided to go with a single
exhaust. Does anyone
know where i can get a single sided bumper from a
first or second gen
R/T, preferably already painted?
Damon
PS-
what single muffler systems (custom or pre-fabbed) do you guys have
and what
do you like? I don't like loud, just great sounding.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 19:08:50
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pearl white R/T bumper...
> PS- what single muffler
systems (custom or pre-fabbed) do you guys have
> and what do you
like? I don't like loud, just great sounding.
I have a custom
single pipe system. It was built by Muffler Tech of
Sacramento CA for
$480 including the high flow cat. I have a Magnaflow
Muffler that does
a really good job. It is a steight through muffler that I
could see
through before they installed it. The tubos quiets the exhaust
a
lot. The muffler guys had just my down pipe on idling the car to
check for
fitting. Even with nothing else to muffle the sound it was
quiet compaired
to many of the naturally aspired cars. With my exhaust
complete, I have a
pretty deep exhaust note at low rpms and what I consider a
rather
conservative rumble through the rest of the rpm band. It is
loader than
stock. No high pitched whine like many of the imports or
any bowl moving
rumble like a big block that has glass packs. My
exhaust is hardly
noticable on the freeway or with the windows rolled
up.
The Muffler Tech guys were able to run my pipe with two 45 deg bends
and one
90 deg bend right at the muffler. I'll take two 45's and a 90
to two 90's
any day.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi
SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, gutted
pre-cats, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen
cross drilled rotors, 3SX
SS braided brake lines, DSM 450cc injectors,
Direct Hits ignition system,
Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:29:05
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
HELP! Massive oil AT y-pipe
As I say a prayer...
As of a
couple days ago, I have been cleaning up oil from the junction of my
y-pipe
and rear turbo intercooler pipe. Yes, it is on the outside as well
as
the inside. Clamp is tight, no oil coming from front side pipe
either.
Anyhow, here are the details:
91 Stealth TT, -41k
miles-
JUST had 60k done, including timing, water pump, plugs & wires,
thermostat,
AND PCV VALVE (and I trust the mechanic)
AVC-R at 1.2bar, with
alky injection running strong.
Just went to drag strip, ran pathetic
13.8sec. (why am I so slow!!??)
During 60k, did compression test - all
came up 145-150 psi
Now, could this just be my PCV system? I'm
getting oil collecting around
the pipe junctions after about 100-150 miles,
enough where I have to wipe it
up, but not enough to drip down on the engine
nor splatter around at all.
It seems to me that this is a lot of oil to make
it all the way thru the
turbo, all the piping, and the
intercooler...
But could it be my turbo?? at 40k miles?? I
did push a lot of boost not
too long ago, 23-24psi.
Of course, I just
realized I was pushing 1.2 bar at the track before, now I
can only do 1.0...
damn it.
Time for 13G's? hehe
TIA
Ken
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS
SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage
II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
98/99 COOLANT TANK (6/26/02)
Best (pathetic)
time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned alky)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 20:14:41
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help desperately with turbos and dealership
If your
intake compression test checks out and your BOV is good then
another thing to
check is if one of your waste gates is sticking open.
Take the vacuum
line off and hook a vacuum pump to the waste gate actuator.
Add pressure to
the actuator until you see the arm move.
If you don't have a vacuum pump
then you can unbolt the actuator by just
taking off two 10mm bolts. You
can move the arm manually then. You may be
able to do it without
unbolting the actuator by just using a set of pliers
on the control arm but I
don't think I would recommend it since I have no
idea if that would screw up
the seals inside the actuator.
If one of the arms won't move at all then
you found the problem.
I would recommend using a vacuum pump. That
way you are testing the
actuator too.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#887
***************************************