Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 1
2002 Volume 01 : Number
886
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Jul 2002 02:47:04 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: New Buyer
> Check the 2nd gear synchro for a grind. 94s
with
> 6-speed Getrags go out at about 60,000 miles.
Technically
they go out when you hose over a 1-2 shift
by not clutching properly.
They don't magically fail
at 60,000. They can be shitty at 2,000 miles
or last
well beyond 60,000 depending on how well maintained the
car is
and what type of fluids are used in the tranny.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 20:29:47
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Buyer
I have seen S/3 cars out there with well over 100k on
them with their
original trannys. If you take care of it, and not abuse it,
it works a long
time.
Tyson
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 23:49:51
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
A/C SCREECH!
whenever i put the A/C on in my SL, and rev the engine to
anything more then
4 grand, i hear a LOUD SCREECH. It really hurts,
especially with the hood
open. When the A/C is off it goes away. .
.any ideas any1? Perhaps some
simple belt dressing for the compressor
belt?
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 23:52:59
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fw: Rotors?
At 18:00 6/30/2002, Jeff & Debby Kelley
wrote:
>I'm sure this has been covered many times but I couldn't find
it
>in the archives. Where can I get good Rotors for a 93 Base Stealth? My
car
>is shaking real bad when I brake going down
>hills.
Suggestions?
Your local car parts store, discount dealers on the Team3S
website.
>Also is it better to replace than have them
turned
>down?
It's mainly looks vs. price. Performance is the same
if you do not go below
the min recommended
thickness.
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 03:56:19
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: A/C SCREECH!
> whenever i put the A/C on in my SL, and rev
the
> engine to anything more then 4 grand, i hear a
> LOUD SCREECH.
It really hurts, especially with
> the hood open. When the A/C is
off it goes
> away. . .any ideas any1? Perhaps some
> simple belt
dressing for the compressor belt?
Don't do belt dressing - that's only a
temporary
measure in most cases. You need to increase the
tension
on the belt. The tensioner pulley is to the
left of the crank pulley
if you are looking at the
motor from the driver's side of the car through
the
wheel well with the plastic access panel removed. You
need to
loosen the bolt in the center of the pulley a
little, and the adjustment
bolt is directly above the
pulley - you'll need an open-end wrench to turn
it
clockwise to increase the tension. Remember to tighten
the nut
on the pulley when you are done.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
whenever i put the A/C on in my SL, and rev the engine to anything more then
> 4 grand, i hear a LOUD SCREECH. It really hurts, especially with the
hood
> open. When the A/C is off it goes away. . .any ideas any1?
Perhaps some
> simple belt dressing for the compressor belt?
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 00:01:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: My car for sale again--drastic price reduction
I finally sat down
and figured what I really have into the car and
taking a look at depreciation
so I have come up with a more realistic
price... $13,000
This is my
daily driver, not raced.
Body is free from dings and paintwork is
good.
Inside is very clean. Pictures at:
http://www.dfwdsm.org/pics/casey/'92
Silver 3000GT VR-4
15g turbos < 10k miles
6-speed
conversion
Blitz Turbo Timer
Borla
Exhaust
Downpipe
K&N
Upgraded ignition coils and wires
2nd Gen
front calipers/rotors
Goodridge braided brake lines
All new underhood
rubber pieces(hoses, motormounts, etc)
New Clutch <5k miles
New factory
adjustable shocks
18" Chrome 2nd gen wheels with brand new Kuhmo's
Clarion
CD headunit and 75x4 JBL amp and JL Audio stealthbox sub
Rebuilt engine
12k miles ago
140k miles on chassis
85k on '95 6-speed
Also
includes a nearly complete set of 2nd gen('97) bodywork and a
few spare bits
and pieces I have lying around. Possibly a spare
shortblock too if I
have not sold it already.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:21:39
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Funny how everyone's
memory changes over time. I seem to recall having the
slowest lap times
by a couple of seconds on average. I think if we had been
drving an enduro, I
would've done well.
> Nevertheless, Chuck did show us all up that
day. I wish I had more time
> like that at the tracks. Maybe
all those times in the Texas heat got
> his car used to it and in PA my
car was used to overcast track days.
>
> As I recall, Chuck was the
only one of the 3000GTs at Heartland Park who
> did not have brake
problems.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 08:24:30
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
I never took any lap
times.
I'm just going by what Flash said last year, when he convinced me
that I'm just a slow old poop.
Rich
At 08:21 AM 7/1/02 -0500,
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>Funny how everyone's memory changes over
time. I seem to recall having the
>slowest lap times by a couple of
seconds on average. I think if we had been
>drving an enduro, I would've
done well.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:15:24
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transmission popping out of 4th gear on base stealth
My auto
tranny has popped out of gear three times in the 10K I've put on the
car. The
circumstances are all somewhat different, twice on the freeway at
speeds over
75MPH, both times I was trying to pass and really asking
something out of it,
once the car was cool, once hot, the other time was
getting off the freeway
making it downshift for an upcoming light, I was not
asking anything much out
of it as opposed to the other two times. The one
common element was the
overdrive being engaged. I am not sure if the tranny
has a drain plug now but
it will soon. Any body know a good place in the
Phoenix area to pick up the
redline tranny fluid? Is it common in auto parts
stores? If I wanted to clean
the tranny cooler off the car, what would be a
good solvent for tranny
crud?
Pete Rivenburg, 93 3000GTSL, Black/blue metal flake, auto,
totally stock,
142K original.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:05:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transmission popping out of 4th gear on base stealth
- ---
"Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
wrote:
>
> Any body know a good place in the Phoenix area
to
pick up the redline tranny fluid?
>
I had good luck with
www.myoilshop.com, as listed on
Jeff's
drivetrain fluid change page (thanks Jeff!)
http://www.stealth316.com/2-awddrainfill.htmUse
dealer code 675421 to recieve a 10% "club"
discount.
It took about a
week to get it to Seattle using fed-ex
ground (about 6 bucks?), I'd assume
Phoenix would be
about the same. If I remember right, they had
faster
shipping options.
Glenn
'93 VR-4 with a happy
drivetrain.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:09:20
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stereo questions
A couple of comments after trawling the
forums for a few weeks.
Took out the 'graphical' head unit, no DIN plugs.
So appears there is no amp
and no room for a changer.
Someone posted
that the THD of the factory amps is 10% at full volume (or
something like
that), and saw the prices were $100+ for a late model CD head
unit and
amp.
And then, finally found a buyer for our Volvo 850 Turbo wagon, and
he
doesn't need the stereo, so the Alpine 7832, 4+1 Alpine amp and spare
wheel
sub are moving over this weekend.
Will let you know the results,
but speakers not in good shape so may be
pointless.....Ebay here I come I
guess.
Thanks for the advice
Andre
92 3000GT
convertible
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Saturday,
June 01, 2002 1:24 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Stereo questions
On model years 97 and up, the 3000GT SL and
VR-4 came with a 210 watt
infinity head unit and amp, with 8 speakers. The
speakers are not kappas, or
any other type of infinity. they are simply paper
cones and tweeters with
the
infinity name with power ratings of no more
then 12 watts for the dash, 60
for the door, and i believe 100 for the 6x9s.
the sound balancer is digital
on these
On your 92 SL, the head unit is
100 watts with 6 speakers, and a manual
sound
balancer. I believe your
first order should be to upgrade all the speakers,
as they blow out right
away. After that you should think about upgrading the
head unit and amp. The
speakers i chose were infinity kappas, And the sound
is excellent. Any
aftermarket speaker with anything besides a paper cone is
far better then
stock.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:46:58
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
Dear
friends,
I finally committed to having my front and rear antisway bars
installed on
my VR4 on Friday. Since some of the exhaust system will be
disconnected to
get the front antisway bar out/in, is this a good timeto
replace some
exhaust gaskets?
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 11:32:33
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
Nah, save your
money. I was driving around without any gaskets for a
while and never
had a problem. Sounded a little weird, but no issues.
If the gaskets
are still in one piece, there's no need to replace them.
They
ordinarily don't degrade from time, but from repetative remove &
reinstall.
I know you're going to love the feel of the car with the
new bars. Do
you currently run some neg camber up front? You'll
most likely need to
with the stiffer front: the bars are not balanced
front/rear. The car
still understeers. With a bit of neg camber
up front (2.5 front, 1.5
rear), the car is much more neutral and ultimate
grip is nearing insane.
Damon
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
Dear friends,
>
> I finally committed to having my front and rear
antisway bars installed on
> my VR4 on Friday. Since some of the
exhaust system will be disconnected to
> get the front antisway bar
out/in, is this a good timeto replace some
> exhaust gaskets?
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:36:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
2.5 up
front?
You gotta tire-ship sugar daddy to lean on?
*chuckle*
On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Damon Rachell wrote:
> Nah, save
your money. I was driving around without any gaskets for a
> while
and never had a problem. Sounded a little weird, but no issues.
>
If the gaskets are still in one piece, there's no need to replace them.
> They ordinarily don't degrade from time, but from
repetative remove &
> reinstall.
>
> I know you're going
to love the feel of the car with the new bars. Do
> you currently
run some neg camber up front? You'll most likely need to
> with the
stiffer front: the bars are not balanced front/rear. The car
> still understeers. With a bit of neg camber up front (2.5 front,
1.5
> rear), the car is much more neutral and ultimate grip is nearing
insane.
> Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 11:38:41
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
Yeh actually.
Kumhos aren't expensive at all, and rotating the tires
frequenty evens
things out quite a bit. I don't have abnormal wear at
all.
Inside edges are pretty darn close to outside. Must be the
rediculous
speeds I take entrance ramps at and clover leaves at to even
out the tire
wear!!!
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> 2.5 up front?
>
>
You gotta tire-ship sugar daddy to lean on? *chuckle*
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:43:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
Thats
still..IMHO, excessive for the street. Has to make for a really
twitchy
car on less than perfect surfaces.
But still, I think 2.5d is a
way to have to replace tires..a lot.
Doesnt matter what ya do on turns,
you'll eat about 2" off the inside edge
fast..really fast.
IMHO, YMMV
(literally) :^)
On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Damon Rachell
wrote:
> Yeh actually. Kumhos aren't expensive at all, and
rotating the tires
> frequenty evens things out quite a bit. I
don't have abnormal wear at
> all. Inside edges are pretty darn
close to outside. Must be the
> rediculous speeds I take entrance
ramps at and clover leaves at to even
> out the tire
wear!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 19:44:56
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Buyer (synchros)
> If you hear a grind, it's the 2nd gear
synchro.
> Budget $3,500 for a replacement tranny at the
dealer.
The $100 blocking ring Kormex sells doesn't take care of this
problem?
> You gotta get it fixed, else it will just get
worse.
I've had a mildly grinding 2nd gear synchro for about four years
now and it hasn't gotten worse
(just over 90k miles on the odometer). I
won't win any drag races, but it's good enough for road
courses.
- -
--
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.comhttp://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 11:50:42
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
It's not twitchy,
but it does track heavily on rutted surfaces. So far,
there's been a
couple thousand miles on the tires and though i've
rotated them once already
(only too easy to do with a lift) i can't
descern a difference from the
fronts to the rears.
2.5 is probably a little excessive for streets, yes,
but i'd rather have
one set up for street and track than have to spend the
$75+ to get it
done each and every time. I guess I should mark my
camber bold
placements so I can reduce the camber for streets, then just
readjust
for the track.
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Thats
still..IMHO, excessive for the street. Has to make for a really
>
twitchy car on less than perfect surfaces.
>
> But still, I
think 2.5d is a way to have to replace tires..a lot.
>
> Doesnt
matter what ya do on turns, you'll eat about 2" off the inside edge
>
fast..really fast.
>
> IMHO, YMMV (literally)
:^)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:54:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: at long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
Camber
Plates, and string.
Allows a sane street alignment, and a few easy
seconds gives you a track
setup.
On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Damon Rachell
wrote:
> It's not twitchy, but it does track heavily on rutted
surfaces. So far,
> there's been a couple thousand miles on the
tires and though i've
> rotated them once already (only too easy to do
with a lift) i can't
> descern a difference from the fronts to the
rears.
>
> 2.5 is probably a little excessive for streets, yes, but
i'd rather have
> one set up for street and track than have to spend the
$75+ to get it
> done each and every time. I guess I should mark my
camber bold
> placements so I can reduce the camber for streets, then
just readjust
> for the track.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:55:37
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Buyer (synchros)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim
Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Buyer (synchros)
> > If you hear a grind, it's the
2nd gear synchro.
> > Budget $3,500 for a replacement tranny at the
dealer.
>
> The $100 blocking ring Kormex sells doesn't take care of
this problem?
The blocking ring from CRS for $15 does not fix this
problem? Or all three
rings for $70?
Alan
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:38:59
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: electronic boost controller
whoops. my response bounced
on Saturday. I sent this from another
machine and didn't realize it
wouldn't make it through the list
submission filter. sorry I didn't
get it sent in time to help anyone
else out.
- ------- Forwarded
Message
>
> thank you all for your comments. sorry I didn't
post the information
> on the group buy as it's open to anyone that
registers. it's at
>
>
http://www.groupbuycenter.com>
>
the vendor is Tuning Garage (USA), Inc.
>
> here's the specific
groupbuy page:
>
>
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/buy.asp?row_id=5749>
>
if you're interested, jump on it because it ends tomorrow (June
30th).
>
>
> Dave
> =======================
> = 95
Black 3000GT VR4 =
> = 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html>
= There is no spoon.. =
> =======================
- ------- End of
Forwarded Message
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:44:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire Wear, Was - front and rear antisway bars going in!
-
--- Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
wrote:
> Yeh actually. Kumhos aren't expensive at all, and
>
rotating the tires
> frequenty evens things out quite a bit.
Ok REAL dumb question. I'm looking at my tires and
the rear
have more tread than the front. So, I'm
thinking time to rotate.
But, since I've only put 2k
miles on the car, I don't know if the front or
back
wear faster (car is stock). I'm guessing more weight
in the
front = front wear faster.
Anyone?
Thanks,
Glenn
'93
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 19:25:39
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: at
long last - front and rear antisway bars going in!
Damon -
How
did you get 2.5 degrees negative camber up front?
I have a stock
94. I just put on Kumho Vector Racers - 245X45R17 on the
stock rims and
I can bearly get .8 degrees negative on the front without
rubbing on the
struts.
I can get about 1.5 degrees negative on the rears. It's the
fronts I
want the camber to try and help the understear.
Damon Rachell
wrote:
[...]>
> I know you're going to love the feel of the car
with the new bars. Do
> you currently run some neg camber up
front? You'll most likely need to
> with the stiffer front:
the bars are not balanced front/rear. The car
> still
understeers. With a bit of neg camber up front (2.5 front, 1.5
>
rear), the car is much more neutral and ultimate grip is nearing insane.
>
Damon
Steve Simonds
'94 Stealth R/T TT
strictly
stock
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 22:04:11
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: datalogger reads rear o2 ?
can anyone give me some info on
this?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
[mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 10:05 AM
To:
team3/S
Subject: datalogger reads rear o2 ?
I glanced through some TMO
archives, and that seemed to be the consensus,
correct? I assume this
holds true for the pocketlogger as well. Could
someone tell me what
methodology the o2 sensor uses to get its
voltage
reading?
thanks,
Bill
'91 R/T tt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 02:48:50
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: RE: datalogger reads rear o2 ?
> I glanced through some TMO
archives, and that seemed
> to be the consensus, correct? I assume
this holds
> true for the pocketlogger as well. Could
>
someone tell me what methodology the o2 sensor
> uses to get its voltage
reading?
Methodology? Like how does it work?
http://www.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#886
***************************************