Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, June 29
2002 Volume 01 : Number
884
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 28 Jun 2002 21:01:34 EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
non turbo people, what mods do you all have?
i have a black 93 3000GT,
with 99,000 miles on it. mods are...
venom
400
i just wanted to try and get some ideas,
thanks
k&n
intake
brandon
ek2 downpipe
borla cat-back
msd 8.5 mm wires
denso iridium
plugs
+ everything is out of my trunk, rug and all.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:30:06
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Chuck
You and I are going
to have to get together at a track sometime --- I'm the same
as you with
respect to brakes. I've never had brake fade or chewed up a set of
pads on a
weekend and I don't get passed very often --- except for the first day
and a
half at Sears Point --- elevated pucker factor caused by too many
walls.
I know I'm not at the limit of the car but I still don't think I'd
burn the brakes to the
ground. I loaned my car to Mad Man Mohler at
Thunderhill for a session and he
ran it out of brakes and cooked a set of
R4's in one session --- I wish the hell
I'd have timed him to see how fast he
was with respect to me. I keep trying to get
people to get some lap times on
the courses we run so we can establish some
kind of comparison between
cars and mods.
I do have the Big Reds W/O the dust
shields.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ---- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
I'm amazed. Only brake cooling mods I have are dust shields removed,
front
> splash guards replaced with hardware cloth, and cross drilled
rotors (which
> many deny is a cooling mod for brakes), and I have NEVER
boiled my Motul. I
> don't even drive around to cool the brakes
anymore after a session. I cook
> the Motul real good to a nice
caramel color. I am usually religious about
> bleeding the brakes
before an event, but this year ran four in a row without
> bleeding
them. No fade, no boiling.
>
> Conclusion: I must
really be driving slow.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:32:56
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Transmission popping out of 4th gear on base stealth
Make sure there's
nothing interfering with the shift linkage --- if the linkage
at the
transmission is being inteferred with the trans can pop out of gear.
Have
someone shift the trans while you watch the linkage to make sure
it's
clear.
Jim
berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Sent:
Thursday, June 27, 2002 9:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Transmission popping out of
4th gear on base stealth
> In the past 2 days my transmission on the
93 Base Stealth (5 speed)
> popped out of 4th gear twice. Both times
I was cruising nicely through
> the city at 45 mph in 4th gear. Then
all of a sudden, it popped out of
> gear. I did not do anything
sudden: no hard acceleration, no letting
> go of the accelerator all
of a sudden.
>
> I know when the car pops out of 5th gear it
can be the end nut on the
> transmission, but what can be the reason for
popping out of 4th?
>
> -MIHAI-
> 93 Base Stealth (5
speed)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:53:56
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
I reinstalled my coils.
All three have good resistance so they are good. I
removed my fuel pump
relay. I check the relay with a meter and applied
voltage to it.
Everything check out good. I ran a bypass wire anyway just
to be
sure. I still have the backfiring and hesitation.
I double checked
my data logs. Fuel(pw) is actually pulse width and not
power like I
though.
I don't think that I have a fuel problem. I don't see how
it could be a
fuel problem with backfiring. It even backfires when I
lean out the
mixture.
I think it is a ignition problem but I don't
know what else to check. I
have brand new plugs and wire, the three
coils all check out.
I'm starting to curse my repair manual for missing
chapter 8. *&#@
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R,
Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided
brake lines and gutted pre-cats, gutted MAS, DSM 450cc
injectors, Direct Hits
ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 22:48:34
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
> I loaned my car
to Mad Man Mohler at Thunderhill for a session and he
>ran it out of
brakes and cooked a set of R4's in one session --- I wish the hell
>I'd
have timed him to see how fast he was with respect to me.
One thing I
learned, when running with Chuck at Heartland Park, is that he makes it look
effortless. I could just barely stay with him, and that was only by outbraking
him. I have Big Reds and Chuck has stock calipers, so I have much better brakes.
Outbraking someone makes up for a lesser driving ability, it seems.
Of
course, outbraking Chuck tends to eat up pads, so I wore a set of Blues down to
the backing plates. Chuck, meanwhile, was loaning his car to Jim Floyd (so it
was running two sessions to our one), running hot times, and keeping his brakes.
As I recall, Chuck was the only one of the 3000GTs at Heartland Park who did not
have brake problems.
All things considered, I'd rather do it Chuck's
way, so I'm working on getting around the track without using brakes very much.
If you are running your brakes the same way Chuck does, don't sell yourself
short: You may have the same or faster times as "Mad Man Mohler." But, like you
say, only a watcb will tell.
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 04:03:09
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> I don't think that I have a
fuel problem. I don't
> see how it could be a fuel problem with
backfiring.
> It even backfires when I lean out the
mixture.
Hmm... I was looking at your mods list and saw
this:
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
> ... gutted MAS,
...
How "gutted" is it?
Does it still backfire if you put the
honeycombs back
in? You absolutely MUST have the ones in the center
passage in place or the MAF won't even work right. If
you take out
the sides it usually drops a lot of counts
and the frequency signal gets
pretty distorted at
higher airflow. Not a mod I'd recommend -
certainly
not on a car that's fairly mildly modded like yours
where you
shouldn't be overrunning the MAF.
When/why did you take the honeycombs
out of the MAF?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 21:51:13
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> > I don't think that I
have a fuel problem. I don't
> > see how it could be a fuel
problem with backfiring.
> > It even backfires when I lean out the
mixture.
>
> Hmm... I was looking at your mods list and saw
this:
>
> > Doug
> > 92 Stealth RT TT
> > ...
gutted MAS, ...
>
> How "gutted" is it?
>
> Does it
still backfire if you put the honeycombs back
> in? You absolutely
MUST have the ones in the center
> passage in place or the MAF won't even
work right. If
> you take out the sides it usually drops a lot of
counts
> and the frequency signal gets pretty distorted at
> higher
airflow. Not a mod I'd recommend - certainly
> not on a car that's
fairly mildly modded like yours
> where you shouldn't be overrunning the
MAF.
>
> When/why did you take the honeycombs out of the
MAF?
I removed them two days ago. My car was back firing well
before that. My
honey combs were pretty dented up from the previous
owner. I just took them
out since they were more of a restiction dented
up than anything else, it
seems. This is a side issue that I'll worry
about later. My car has been
hesitating and backfiring well before I
removed them.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC,
K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided brake
lines and gutted pre-cats, gutted MAS, DSM 450cc
injectors, Direct Hits
ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 01:56:50
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Chuck also had some
suspension mods while others (I think I was the only
one) had stock
suspension. That comes in to play big time on those high
speed diving
brake zones when the front of the car nosedives onto the
front
brakes.
Nevertheless, Chuck did show us all up that day. I wish I
had more time
like that at the tracks. Maybe all those times in the
Texas heat got
his car used to it and in PA my car was used to overcast track
days.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Friday, June 28, 2002 23:49
As I recall, Chuck was the only one of the
3000GTs at Heartland Park who
did not have brake problems.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 01:58:50
-0400
From: HigherBeing <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Please Please Help Out With This One Thing
Would somebody please
do me a huge favor and take a picture of the vacumm
Routing Diagram for a
Turbo Stealth,, 93 year or equivelant. I am in the
process of putting my head
back on and cannot figure out some things. Some
of hte places do not seem
right. My diagram is not under my hood any place.
Your help out me much
appreciated..
Thanks,
Jerry. 93 Stealth RT/S & 92 Stealth
E/S
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 02:05:05
-0400
From: HigherBeing <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please Please Help Out With This One Thing
Not at all, I jsut
need to see a few things,, I got most of the Right,, jsut
a few do not seem
right.. the rest i am ok with.. Plus I have my Hennessey
manual on the rest
of the added vaccum hoses for the ECV and the sorts..
Thanks
Again
Jerry,
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
"'HigherBeing'" <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Sent:
Saturday, June 29, 2002 2:03 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please Please Help Out
With This One Thing
> Jerry - do you mind if the hoses are all
red?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 02:01:19
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: electronic boost controller
I bought the SBCi-D. I've heard
some negative things about the Apexi and
decided to go with the blitz. So far
I'm rather happy with it. I still
have to tweak it, but that'll be taken care
of once I make it out to the
strip.
475 is a pretty good deal - I paid
530 from Dynamic Racing. Installation
is fairly simple. If you (or anyone
else for that matter) needs detailed
pics, e-mail me
off-list.
Alex.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Dave Monarchi
Sent: Friday,
June 28, 2002 3:50 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: electronic boost controller
I know there's quite a bit of
difference of opinion on what the best
controller is, and maybe it's mostly a
matter of preference. I was
pretty convinced I was going to buy a Apexi
indiglo unit, but it seems
to be pretty confusing to set up according to a
lot of posts I've read.
I just read a review of half a dozen or so
controllers in Sport Compact
Car, and it seemed the Blitz SBC-ID had the
least negative comments
relative to the pluses. Anyone care to
comment?
I came across a group buy on the Blitz SBC-ID for $475, and
was
wondering
if this sounds like a good price, or are there other vendors
that sell
it
for less. I don't have money to burn, but this one
sounded like it's
worth digging a bit deeper for.
I know some of you
swear by manual controllers, but for a variety of
reasons, that won't work
very well for me.
any input would be appreciated!
thanks,
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 07:36:05
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> hey i was looking through
my cd rom manual and it said that the TPS will
> cause hesitation and idle
problems. so give it a look
I took a meter to the TSP. It
checks out fine. All resistances are good
and it changes smoothly as I
move the throttle.
I also checked the air temperature sensor with a hair
dryer. It is working
fine too. I put the honeycomb back in and
streightened it out as much as
possible. The car idles smoother now but
still hesitates and backfires like
it has been.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom
3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled
rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, DSM 450cc injectors,
Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 15:36:45
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump voltage
If I understand your email correctly, you
are considering running a new wire
from one of two factory relays in the
fuel pump circuit (item 5 or 6 below).
This will not likely solve a problem
with low voltage to the pump and is not a
good solution in any case (note
item 4).
The factor FP circuit is:
1) Battery [+ terminal]
2)
Fusible link [30A - terminal 4]
3) Ignition switch [IG1]
4) Multipurpose
fuse [15A - terminal 12]
5) Engine control relay
6) Fuel pump relay 2
(turbo models only)
6a) Resistor [switched by ECU at idle
through the pump relay]
7) Fuel pump
8) Chassis ground [-] through fuel
pump assembly frame to gas tank to
body/frame
In order to get the
highest available voltage to the pump (without using a
transformer such as
the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump or the Jacob's Electronic
Accuvolt FR-750), a
new thick wire must be run to the pump from the battery.
How thick a wire to
use is determined by how much voltage drop you are happy
with. The Supra
pump will draw from 17-20 amps or more during high boost.
Using the length
of your wire and the amp draw you can calculate voltage drop
for
different-size wires using the calculator on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htmAs
far as the factory wiring turning the pump on and off, that is what the new
relay is for. The fuel pump after the "re-wire mod" works just the same as
before, except there is more voltage and so more flow.
Complete
re-wire instructions:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-rewire.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump
voltage
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 17:23:39 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>,
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Now I get battery (system) voltage minus about 0.11 volts all the
time.
The
> problem with that though is the stock FPR cannot handle all
the flow from
the
> Supra pump with 13+ volts at idle (38 to 46 psi
depending on voltage and
> temp).
What I plan to do after I fix my
hesitation problem is add another relay
plus 10 guage wire to the fuel pump
circuit. Originally I was just going to
add a 10 guage to the original
circuit but I don't know if the stock fuel
relay can handle that many
amps. I will splice into wire #2 off the stock
relay and use that to
activate the 2nd relay that I will add. The 2nd relay
will connect the
10 guage wire directly to the fuel pump.
This is pretty simple and will
allow the stock system to control the whole
works. I suppose I could
just eliminate the whole stock relay and wire in a
higher amp relay with the
10 guage wire. I will decide for sure when the
time comes to do
it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 15:49:41
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
I do not remember all your
comments or all the responses in this thread, but
is it possible that the
hesitation and backfiring are not related? One cause
of excesssive
backfiring is the throttle plate closing too fast. This can be
caused by a
malfunctioning dashpot (its only purpose is to keep the throttle
plate from
slamming closed) or a throttle cable set too tight (there must a
little
slack to let the dashpot and ECM/ISC do their jobs). Gutted cats and an
open
exhaust contribute to backfiring occuring in some cases, but usually not
during casual acceleration or shifting.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at
3700 rpms Update
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 07:36:05 -0700
From: "dakken"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 14:11:17
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: NHRA Safety Rules
Does anyone know the NHRA rules when it comes
to needing a roll cage or
a roll bar. I've heard that under 10 needs a
roll cage, but I've also
heard that under 11 does too. Does anyone have
just like a table of
what's needed at certain speeds and such?
Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 15:02:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> I reinstalled my
coils. All three have good resistance so they are
> good
This
is not necessarily so. It only means you do not have a short or
a
broken circuit nothing more. I had similar strange running problems
until I
spent some time shaking down the coil packs. What I found is
that
3000GT coils(and eclipse coils too) go "bad" after several
years. They
measure just fine with a DMM but don't work correctly in
service. The
most common problem I found were hairline cracks in the
insulation.
With the engine running at idle pull off the sparkplug
boots one by
one. Good coils should not spark from anywhere but the
terminals, but
almost every old coil I have tested will arc from all
over the sides and
bottom. All of my problems went away when I
tested a known good coil
pack.
As a side note I also found that -7 NGK's are too cold for
general
street driving and foul(even if they dont look it) after only a
few
thousand miles. They work great when you spend alot of time
under
boost tho.
Casey
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 15:04:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NHRA Safety Rules
Under 11.99 requires a "roll bar" and under
10.99 requires a roll
cage. As you go faster than 10.99 you get into
different types of
cages for 9.99 etc. The best place to get this kind
of info is
straight out of the NHRA rule book, which I think is avaliable
online
nowdays.
Casey
- --- "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
wrote:
> Does anyone know the NHRA rules when it comes to needing a
roll
> cage or
> a roll bar. I've heard that under 10 needs a
roll cage, but I've
> also
> heard that under 11 does too.
Does anyone have just like a table
> of
> what's needed at certain
speeds and such? Thanks.
>
> -Brad
> 97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 16:38:43
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> I do not remember all
your comments or all the responses in this thread,
but
> is it possible
that the hesitation and backfiring are not related?
You are right.
They may not be directly related. They do happen at the
same
time. Here is a typical scenario:
I am in 1st gear starting out
easy, I stomp on the gas at about 2000 rpms,
It accelerated great until I hit
the high 3000's. Then I get hesitation and
backfiring with my foot
still floored. The hesitation is on and off
quickly. Boost mostly
stays constant at first and then starts to fall off
until it is barely over
.40 kg/cm2. If I continue with my foot floored then
the car will
continue to hesitate and backfire all the way to redline.
Repeat in 2nd, 3rd
and 4th gear. I havn't done this in 5th since there is
no autoban near
by.
Here is some of my data log info:
I have a knock sum of 2 max
and 0 most of the time, O2 is over .9 until the
hesitation starts and then it
runs between .35 and .65 volts and my
injectors are at 60% max. Spark
timing stays in the mid to upper 20's.
This happens with almost every boost
setting. I have been able to hold 14
psi boost from 2500 rpms until it
started to hesitate at 3700 rpms in 3rd
and 4th gear. I was even able
to get 14 psi in 1st gear before it started
hesitating. When I turn my
AVCR off, I still get the hesitation, only it
comes at about 5000 rpms and is
not nearly as bad. During the hesitation,
boost drops to between 6 and
9 psi. I know it is not my recent mods that
did this becaust my car was
acting like this before my mods. I thought it
was spark blowout and
just lived with it until I installed new plugs that
are factory gapped (I
verified each one) at .032.
SAFC is set at -20% low throttle and -18%
high.
I am going to remove all the crimp splices from my SAFC and AVCR
and solder
the connections. I will also do as Casey suggested and take
my spark plug
wires off to see if my coils are sparking anywhere they are not
supposed to.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro
341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and
gutted pre-cats, DSM 450cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec
exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:09:37
-0500
From: "Toby Schoonover" <
toby92vr4@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Buyer
I am looking to purchase a 94' VR4 or TT Stealth. As
far as reliability
goes, have any 94' twin turbo model vehicle owners had
any major problems,
or a large number of smaller problems?
I will of
course spend a little more than average for repairs as it is a
higher-performance vehicle but do not have the money to sink a huge amount
into repairs. ANY input would be appreciated, thank you greatly,
- -Toby
Schoonover
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:30:17
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Buyer
At 07:09 PM 6/29/02 -0500, Toby Schoonover
wrote:
>I am looking to purchase a 94' VR4 or TT Stealth. As far as
reliability
>goes, have any 94' twin turbo model vehicle owners had any
major problems,
>or a large number of smaller problems?
Make
ABSOLUTELY SURE (demand proof) that the 60,000 mile service was done. This
should include changing the timing belt and water pump. Ask for a receipt that
lists the work done. If no proof is proffered, budget $700 to have it done at a
dealer.
Check the 2nd gear synchro for a grind. 94s with 6-speed Getrags
go out at about 60,000 miles. You'll notice it immediately on your first hot 1-2
shift (crunch!). To be sure, get it rolling a little (20 mph), and try a fast
1-2 or a 3-2 shift. Don't bang shift it, just move the stick rapidly. If you
hear a grind, it's the 2nd gear synchro. Budget $3,500 for a replacement tranny
at the dealer. You gotta get it fixed, else it will just get worse.
Those
are the two biggies with 94 cars.
If you buy it at a dealer, try to get
an extended warranty. I bought my 94 at a dealer three years ago, paid $1700 for
the warranty, and it paid for a new tranny ($3,000), a new water pump (and
timing belt) ($700), and a new front spindle ($400). I suspect most 94s are a
bit old for an extended warranty, but maybe you'll find a dumb dealer. I got
mine at an Olds dealer.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 18:00:08
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
I just removed my spark plug
wires one by one as Casey suggested. 5 of them
were perfectly
normal. They started arcing from the top of the terminals.
The 6th one
has a crack in it. It is arcing through the side of the
terminal to a
mounting screw. Looks like I may have my problem.
I wrapped a few
layers of electrical tape around it but figured out how
futile that is since
several of my terminals actually arced to the rubber IC
hose.
I guess
it makes sense that at higher rpm and boost level that the spark
energy from
that one bad terminal would bleed enough power out of the spark
to cause a
miss.
Thanks Casey for the suggestion.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom
3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled
rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, DSM 450cc injectors,
Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#884
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