Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, June 28
2002 Volume 01 : Number
883
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:09:35 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car creeping forward while parked in gear
I would assume 1st is a higher
ratio --- you can go faster in 1st than
in reverse [ I've never had my car at
redline in reverse but it seems
lower
].
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Question is whether reverse or 1st gear has highest gear ratio.
>
>
Which gear requires the engine to turn the most times per tire
revolution.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:25:43
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Don't you mean reverse is
higher, i.e. more engine turns in reverse to
fewer wheel turns? Just
check out stealth316. Jeff's got the actual
ratios and final drive
specs and whatnot.
my question is, don't higher ratio gears spin tires
slower than lower
ratio gears (1:1 in 4th would be a lower
gear?)
fastmax wrote:
> I would assume 1st is a higher ratio
--- you can go faster in 1st than
> in reverse [ I've never had my car at
redline in reverse but it seems
> lower ].
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:29:54
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> Another fuel-related
thing to think about would be the Fuel Pump Relay
(the
> one that steps
down the voltage at 3000?RPM). Try bypassing that relay
> (will run
your pump at full voltage all the time) using a wire, paper
clip,
> or
whatever else you have handy. Ok, so the paper clip was a joke,
but
> it'll work in a pinch.
>
> Have you hooked up a pressure
gauge to your high-pressure fuel line? Is
> your fuel pressure
ok?
I havn't hooked up a guage to my fuel line yet. I saw the fuel
pump power
on the data logger at 14 to 15 volts. I don't know how the
data logger
knows the fuel pump voltage but I took it at face
value.
My SAFC is crimped in. All the conections are good. I
worked on helicopter
armament and electrical systems for six years, so I was
pretty thorough when
I made my connections. I could have soldered them
but after six years in
tight compartments soldering, I just don't have the
patients for it anymore.
I am getting back firing when the hesitation
occures. Could this happen
with a fuel problem? I have started
looking into my ignition system since
it seems that that would be a more
likely culprit. I will short the fuel
relay right after I clean my coil
contacts. I'll make sure I don't use a
paper clip. How about a
bobby pin?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro
341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and
gutted pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo
Tec exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:45:06
-0400
From: HigherBeing <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Compartment Diagrams
Hey all,
Wondering if anybody out there can tell me a site or direct me to
some
diagrams of an engine compartment of a Turbo motor. I have the rear head
off
of my Stealth to replace some valves and kinda forgot how some of the
heat
shields and some of those misc, brackets go on and are placed. I
remember
all the vaccum hoses and the sorts. Just can't remember where those
heat
shield are placed. Any help would be very much
appreciated.
Thanks
Jerry 93 Stealth RT/S & 92 Stealth
E/S
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:53:52
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?
What are acceptable stepper
numbers from the pocketlogger/tmo that show that
the ISC/IAC is functioning
properly? For example, values at cold idle, warm
idle, during cruising,
and WOT?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Thursday,
June 27, 2002 9:26 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?
Those of us that datalog know
that the ISC/IAC (stepper motor) is an
integral
part of the ECM's strategy
for proper fuel-air mixture control. It is THE
way
that the ECM controls
idle speed under varying operating conditions (cold
engine, warm engine, A/C
startup, headlights on, etc.). The ECM also uses
the
ISC during
acceleration.
Driving the car without a functioning ISC (while possible
according to cody)
is not a wise course of action (except perhaps as an
emergency alternative
to
being stranded) and should not be considered an
alternative to repair or
replacement.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 23:49:38
EDT
From:
Czarcd@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak
In a message dated 6/26/02 10:27:29 PM
Pacific Daylight Time,
apedenko@earthlink.net
writes:
> I don't think it'd fit the wrong way, but...
>
> The tab should be towards the passenger compartment (if memory
serves).
Just to clarify...the tab should be pointing up and on the
passenger's side
of the throttle body? Could this cause a vacuum leak
if it was on wrong?
Don't mean to sound stupid....just wanna make
sure.
Thanx in advance,
Carlo
Black
91 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:04:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
I'm amazed.
Only brake cooling mods I have are dust shields removed, front
splash guards
replaced with hardware cloth, and cross drilled rotors (which
many deny is a
cooling mod for brakes), and I have NEVER boiled my Motul. I
don't even
drive around to cool the brakes anymore after a session. I cook
the
Motul real good to a nice caramel color. I am usually religious
about
bleeding the brakes before an event, but this year ran four in a row
without
bleeding them. No fade, no boiling.
Conclusion: I
must really be driving slow.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday,
June 27, 2002 3:05 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: 'Dave and Becky
Trent'; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on
acceleration
>
> Yep..ive had it happen.
>
> Motul
isnt foolproof, it can boil.
>
> Might be a time to talk about dust
plates, cooling mods for the brakes, or
> brake
management.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:34:17
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
I can't see any
downside. The real purpose of the dust shields seems to be
keeping heat
in the rotors during normal driving. If your brake pad has a
low enough
operating temperature, who cares? If you are doing PM on the
brakes a
lot (like so you can drive on the tracks) I wonder about the value
of keeping
the shields.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael
Gerhard [SMTP:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 3:24
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
>
>
> I'd like to get some additional input concerning the dust shields. The
> upside of removing them is better cooling. I hesitate to remove them
until
>
> I think I know all the down sides. I'd appreciate any
input as to what I
> might be losing if I remove them.
>
>
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 00:35:20
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Transmission popping out of 4th gear on base stealth
In the past 2 days
my transmission on the 93 Base Stealth (5 speed)
popped out of 4th gear
twice. Both times I was cruising nicely through
the city at 45 mph in
4th gear. Then all of a sudden, it popped out of
gear. I did not
do anything sudden: no hard acceleration, no letting
go of the
accelerator all of a sudden.
I know when the car pops out of 5th
gear it can be the end nut on the
transmission, but what can be the reason
for popping out of 4th?
- -MIHAI-
93 Base Stealth (5
speed)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 22:08:15
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
I have all 3 coils out
now. Here are the readings. Could someone tell me
if they are
within tolerances?
Primary: 1.1 ohm, 1.1 ohm, 1.1
ohm
Secondary: 13.6 kohm, 13.5 kohm, 13.2 ohm
The connectors for
the primaries were corroded pretty bad. I am cleaning
them now.
Somehow a baby spider made a web inside one of the plastic
guards.
Makes me wonder is my car sat somewhere for a long time before I
bought
it. Maybe I will get lucky and cleaning the posts will fix
my
problem. I can always dream anyway.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom
3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled
rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, gutted MAS, DSM 450
cc
injectors, Direct Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust
wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 01:03:08
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak
Yes...
I double checked in
the manual, and I'll take a look at the car
tomorrow, but yeah, it should be
up and towards the passenger
compartment. I don't know if it not being that
way could cause a leak...
Alex.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
Czarcd@aol.comSent: Thursday, June 27, 2002
10:50 PM
To:
apedenko@earthlink.net;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
How to find a vacuum leak
In a message dated 6/26/02 10:27:29 PM Pacific
Daylight Time,
apedenko@earthlink.net writes:
I
don't think it'd fit the wrong way, but...
The tab should be towards the
passenger compartment (if memory serves).
Just to clarify...the tab
should be pointing up and on the passenger's
side of the throttle body? Could
this cause a vacuum leak if it was on
wrong? Don't mean to sound
stupid....just wanna make sure.
Thanx in advance,
Carlo
Black
91 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 07:06:42
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
At 01:08 6/28/2002, dakken
wrote:
>Primary: 1.1 ohm, 1.1 ohm, 1.1 ohm
>Secondary:
13.6 kohm, 13.5 kohm, 13.2 ohm
I have a spread of resistance numbers just
like that. I think that's okay.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 06:00:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Thomas Labonte <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Magnecor KV85 wires
I recently ordered and installed KV85 wires for
a
3000GT 24V (Magnecor part# 65128).
Has anyone else who has ordered these
wires found each
of them to be 2-3 inches too long? I managed to
get
the rear bank wires installed, but there is some
unsightly
slack. I wasn't able to install them at all
on the front bank because
there just isn't anywhere to
put the extra slack.
Did I just get a
bum set?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 08:18:07
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor KV85 wires
I installed two 8mm sets four or five
years ago - they were longer than the
stock wires - they are also
thicker. so were the NGK wires I installed two
years ago. don't you
have little retaining brackets to take up the slack?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Thomas Labonte [SMTP:tnl7455@yahoo.com]
> Sent:
Friday, June 28, 2002 8:00 AM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Magnecor KV85 wires
>
> I recently ordered and
installed KV85 wires for a
> 3000GT 24V (Magnecor part# 65128).
>
Has anyone else who has ordered these wires found each
> of them to be 2-3
inches too long? I managed to get
> the rear bank wires installed,
but there is some
> unsightly slack. I wasn't able to install them
at all
> on the front bank because there just isn't anywhere to
>
put the extra slack.
> Did I just get a bum set?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 13:23:12
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
>> I havn't hooked up a
guage to my fuel line yet.
>> I saw the fuel pump power on the
data logger at 14
>> to 15 volts. I don't know how the data
logger
>> knows the fuel pump voltage but I took it at face
value.
What datalogger are you using? Because the ECM cannot (and
therefore does not)
monitor voltage at the fuel pump, the TMO and
PocketLOGGER do not report the
fuel pump voltage. For a list of what these
two dataloggers do report and
which features are compatible with 1991-1993
3S cars, please take a look at my
web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo3.htmThese
loggers do report what the nominal battery (system) voltage is. But that
is
not the same as the voltage *at* the pump. A system voltage between 14 and
15 volts might be a little high for a warm engine in the summer (but is
within
spec).
How to measure fuel pump voltage:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpvoltage.htmHow
to bypass the FP resistor (only for turbo models):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumprelaybypass.htmHow
to increase voltage to the fuel pump:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-rewire.htmhttp://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-hotwire.htmSummary
of spec alternator voltages and other battery info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm#suitabJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 27, 2002 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms
Update
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 13:33:53
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Magnecor KV85 wires
I have some pics of my (old) engine
compartment on my web page below for
comparison and to show my solution to
the Magnecor wires being slightly
longer - especially the back ones. The
front ones could have been a little
shorter but no big deal.
http://www.stealth316.com/1-pics.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Labonte" <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 28, 2002 7:00 AM
Subject: Team3S: Magnecor KV85 wires
I
recently ordered and installed KV85 wires for a
3000GT 24V (Magnecor part#
65128).
Has anyone else who has ordered these wires found each
of them to
be 2-3 inches too long? I managed to get
the rear bank wires installed,
but there is some
unsightly slack. I wasn't able to install them at
all
on the front bank because there just isn't anywhere to
put the extra
slack.
Did I just get a bum set?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 13:45:37
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?
My cold engine starts with
ISC steps in the range of 90 to 100 or more, which
decrease as the engine
(coolant) warms.
At warm idle I get ISC steps of about 12 to 15.
Cruising
causing steps to be around 20.
Acceleration and full throttle see steps
increase to 40 to 50.
The scale on the datalogger is 0 to 130.
I
really do not know if these are acceptable or normal as I have not compared
them to numbers from other cars. My engine seems to function
"normally".
********************************************
Speaking of
datalogging. Has anyone picked
up the ball to archive and catalog
datalogs for our
cars?
********************************************
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Cc:
"team3/S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 27, 2002 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle stepper motor
replacement?
What are acceptable stepper numbers from the
pocketlogger/tmo that show that
the ISC/IAC is functioning properly?
For example, values at cold idle, warm
idle, during cruising, and
WOT?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 07:25:11
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
I took another look at my data
logger. It says on it fuel(pw). I have a
TunerStein
datalogger. I searched their web site thoroughly and I cannot
find what
this is. I just assumed from the numbers that I saw there that it
was
fuel power. I'm going to search further to see if I can figure
out
exactly what this is.
Tonight I will bypass the fuel replay and
cross my fingers. If it is not
kicking in at 3000 rpms then this just
might be my problem.
Thanks for the input.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom
3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled
rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, gutted MAS, DSM 450
cc
injectors, Direct Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust
wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 07:44:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Les Gemar <
lesgemar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
HKS EVC 4 installation
I just installed an HKS EVC 4 valve controller on
my
1991 3000 gt VR-4. At stock boost (about 7.5 psi) it
runs smoothly to
redline. When I run at "high boost"
or about 15 psi, the engine pulls very
strong until
about 4500 RPM to 6500 RPM where it starts missing. I
have
57,000 miles on the car, everything is stock
except the HKS EVC boost
controller and a K/N air
filter. Anyone experienced these same symptoms?
I'm
looking for information anyone may have to eliminate
the missing
problem at high boost. Thanks, Les Gemar
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 09:47:34
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
At 03:04 PM 6/27/02
-0500, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>I'm amazed. Only brake cooling
mods I have are dust shields removed, front
>splash guards replaced with
hardware cloth, and cross drilled rotors (which
>many deny is a cooling
mod for brakes), and I have NEVER boiled my Motul.
>Conclusion: I
must really be driving slow.
Oh, c'mon Chuck. We both know that the
faster you go, the less you use your brakes. You've known that for a
couple of years, which is why you don't need all the fancy stuff we amateurs buy
(Big Reds, blowers, ducts, water injection, etc.). You have stock calipers
ferchrissake, and your pads last for multiple events.
I've gone from
using up a set of race pads in ONE DAY to making them last for two events, so I
am finally learning how to brake.
I don't think the technique can be
explained in so many words, because it also involves carrying momentum into the
turns and BELIEVING that the car will turn in and actually make it through. You
only learn that on track, with an instructor like you who can both demonstrate
the technique and ensure the driver that he WILL make it through.
It
seems weird to say that the faster you go, the less you use your brakes, but
you've said it a number of times, and you are right.
Driving slow, my
butt.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 14:52:40
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
"fuel(pw)" - Maybe it is the
pulse width of the injectors in milliseconds? The
TMO and PocketLOGGER call
this IPW. See if the value changes with RPM and load.
According to their
web page below, the Tunerstein basically logs the same
values as the
TMO/PL.
http://206.124.12.138/codsm/tunerstein/webpage/features.html=============================================================
As
far as the resistor relay goes, mine worked correctly (meaning the ECM
through the engine relay switched it correctly). But I only got around 10.5
volts to the pump before and after I bypassed the resistor. I had to re-wire
the pump circuit to get good voltage. I thought that maybe the pump ground
path was bad, but the pump grounds through the pump assembly frame through
the
fuel tank to the frame/body (and that path was fine).
Now I get
battery (system) voltage minus about 0.11 volts all the time. The
problem
with that though is the stock FPR cannot handle all the flow from the
Supra
pump with 13+ volts at idle (38 to 46 psi depending on voltage and
temp). I
am waiting on Mike Walsh's aftermarket adjustable FPR (spoolinup.com)
to fix
the problem (no driveability problems, I just want better control).
During
boost, the fuel pressure looks fine.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 28, 2002 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms
Update
I took another look at my data logger. It says on it
fuel(pw). I have a
TunerStein datalogger. I searched their web
site thoroughly and I cannot
find what this is. I just assumed from the
numbers that I saw there that it
was fuel power. I'm going to search
further to see if I can figure out
exactly what this is.
Tonight I
will bypass the fuel replay and cross my fingers. If it is not
kicking
in at 3000 rpms then this just might be my problem.
Thanks for the
input.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro
341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and
gutted pre-cats, gutted MAS, DSM 450 cc
injectors, Direct Hits ignition
system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:56:48
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HKS EVC 4 installation
Hey Les, two things search the FAQ
pages (not trying to be rude here)
Second what you are experiencing is
probably spark blowout, turn the boost
down to like 13 psi and regap your
plugs down to .033 Those two things
will reduce your spark
blowout and help your engine last longer..... IMHO
15 psi is too high
on the stock fuel system...... FWIW
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4
Still under the Knife
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Les
Gemar [SMTP:lesgemar@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 10:44
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: HKS EVC 4 installation
>
> I just installed an HKS
EVC 4 valve controller on my
> 1991 3000 gt VR-4. At stock boost (about
7.5 psi) it
> runs smoothly to redline. When I run at "high boost"
>
or about 15 psi, the engine pulls very strong until
> about 4500 RPM to
6500 RPM where it starts missing. I
> have 57,000 miles on the car,
everything is stock
> except the HKS EVC boost controller and a K/N
air
> filter. Anyone experienced these same symptoms? I'm
> looking
for information anyone may have to eliminate
> the missing problem at high
boost. Thanks, Les Gemar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 13:48:37
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Magnecor KV85 wires
Yeah, this sucks how Magnecor has been
making these wires for so many
years and they still have that extra slack. I
guess not that many people
told them.
You could actually cut the coil
connector ends shorter yourself and
re-crimp them, even without removing the
wires from the car. Just pay
attention to how they were crimped before. I
have not done that myself yet
because I may be upgrading the coils, therefore
I might need all that
extra slack.
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I
have some pics of my (old) engine compartment on my web page below
for
comparison and to show my solution to the Magnecor wires being
slightly
longer - especially the back ones. The front ones could have been a
little
shorter but no big deal.
http://www.stealth316.com/1-pics.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 14:50:22
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: electronic boost controller
I know there's quite a bit of
difference of opinion on what the best
controller is, and maybe it's mostly a
matter of preference. I was
pretty convinced I was going to buy a Apexi
indiglo unit, but it seems
to be pretty confusing to set up according to a
lot of posts I've read.
I just read a review of half a dozen or so
controllers in Sport Compact
Car, and it seemed the Blitz SBC-ID had the
least negative comments
relative to the pluses. Anyone care to
comment?
I came across a group buy on the Blitz SBC-ID for $475, and was
wondering
if this sounds like a good price, or are there other vendors that
sell it
for less. I don't have money to burn, but this one sounded like
it's
worth digging a bit deeper for.
I know some of you swear by
manual controllers, but for a variety of
reasons, that won't work very well
for me.
any input would be appreciated!
thanks,
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 16:55:37
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: electronic boost controller
I like the SBCi-D because it is
just like the DSBC only it has a pretty
display and a few other
features.... 475 is a very good price most vendors
I have seen
are selling it for about 550 or so. AS far as installation
and
setting this thing up your best bet is to go to Roger Gerl's site it has
the
details for setting up the DSBC and its is basically identical for
the
SBCi-D
I had the Apexi unit but I may be ditching it in favor of
the new HKS unit
if it ever comes out
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Dave Monarchi
[SMTP:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
> Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 4:50
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: electronic boost controller
>
>
> I know
there's quite a bit of difference of opinion on what the best
> controller
is, and maybe it's mostly a matter of preference. I was
> pretty
convinced I was going to buy a Apexi indiglo unit, but it seems
> to be
pretty confusing to set up according to a lot of posts I've read.
>
> I just read a review of half a dozen or so controllers in Sport
Compact
> Car, and it seemed the Blitz SBC-ID had the least negative
comments
> relative to the pluses. Anyone care to comment?
>
> I came across a group buy on the Blitz SBC-ID for $475, and was
wondering
> if this sounds like a good price, or are there other vendors
that sell it
> for less. I don't have money to burn, but this one
sounded like it's
> worth digging a bit deeper for.
>
> I
know some of you swear by manual controllers, but for a variety of
>
reasons, that won't work very well for me.
>
> any input would be
appreciated!
>
> thanks,
>
> Dave
>
=======================
> = 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
> = 87 Mica Red
GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
> = There is no spoon.. =
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 17:13:24
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Magnecor KV85 wires
Mine are also longer but I am of the mindset
that longer is better than
too short. Just make a wave pattern under
the front spark plug plate
cover instead of pulling them tight. Make
them go over the first spark
plug boot then under the next. You can do it if
you look at it for a
bit. Maybe face the boot to the right and come up and
around itself to
take up the slack.
Rear is hard to notice since you
only see the one end of them.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Labonte
Sent: Friday, June 28,
2002 09:00
I recently ordered and installed KV85 wires for a
3000GT
24V (Magnecor part# 65128).
Has anyone else who has ordered these wires found
each
of them to be 2-3 inches too long? I managed to get
the rear
bank wires installed, but there is some
unsightly slack. I wasn't able
to install them at all
on the front bank because there just isn't anywhere
to
put the extra slack.
Did I just get a bum set?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 17:23:39
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump voltage
> Now I get battery (system) voltage minus
about 0.11 volts all the time.
The
> problem with that though is the
stock FPR cannot handle all the flow from
the
> Supra pump with 13+
volts at idle (38 to 46 psi depending on voltage and
> temp).
What
I plan to do after I fix my hesitation problem is add another relay
plus 10
guage wire to the fuel pump circuit. Originally I was just going to
add
a 10 guage to the original circuit but I don't know if the stock fuel
relay
can handle that many amps. I will splice into wire #2 off the
stock
relay and use that to activate the 2nd relay that I will add. The
2nd relay
will connect the 10 guage wire directly to the fuel
pump.
This is pretty simple and will allow the stock system to control
the whole
works. I suppose I could just eliminate the whole stock relay
and wire in a
higher amp relay with the 10 guage wire. I will decide
for sure when the
time comes to do it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom
3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled
rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, gutted MAS, DSM 450
cc
injectors, Direct Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust
wrap.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#883
***************************************