Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Thursday, June 27 2002    Volume 01 : Number 882




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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 00:19:12 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

> I replaced my fuel pressure regulator today.  I
> replaced the fuel filter Sunday.  My car still
> hesitates at about 3700 rpms.  I had the windows
> rolled down today so I could hear my exhaust
> backfiring.  I guess my problem is more likely an
> ignition problem.

Actually it sounds more like a tuning issue.  If I go
rich or lean on my car I can duplicate your
hesitation.  Have you tried playing with your S-AFC
fuel curve around those RPMs and load?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 17:25:02 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

I did a little.  I increased my fuel to -10% instead of -20% where it is
now.  I will try leaner and see if that changes anything.

Thanks for the suggestion.


Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Cc: <team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update


> > I replaced my fuel pressure regulator today.  I
> > replaced the fuel filter Sunday.  My car still
> > hesitates at about 3700 rpms.  I had the windows
> > rolled down today so I could hear my exhaust
> > backfiring.  I guess my problem is more likely an
> > ignition problem.
>
> Actually it sounds more like a tuning issue.  If I go
> rich or lean on my car I can duplicate your
> hesitation.  Have you tried playing with your S-AFC
> fuel curve around those RPMs and load?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 20:25:56 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?

I actually found myself able to run the car for (forever if needed),
with the ISC motor entirely non-functional... What I did at the time was
close the hole that it lets air through (with the motor out of the
shell), then reinstall the motor, then not hook it up...  Then you are
able to set idle via the idle set screw located on top of the TB... 

At any rate, if you replace it yourself, there is nothing to reset at
all...

I recommend disconnecting the battery prior to installation, but that's
it...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Tom Bromm
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 12:23 PM
To: Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st
Subject: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?

Hi folks,

I've got a '92 Steath R/T N/A that doesn't idle.  80% of the time when
coming to a stop it will just die.

A local Mitzu dealer determined I have a bad Idle Speed Control Servo
but I
couldn't afford to replace it.  I now have the $ but I'm thinking of
replacing it myself (looks like just 2 screws!).  I've been told by the
San
Rafael, CA Mitzu dealer that there's some sort of "resetting" that needs
to
be done with the computer.

Is this true or are they just trying to squeeze $ out of me?  If it's
not
true, is there any special tool needed to disconnect the stepper motor
from
whatever is inside the plenum or is it really just 2 screws?

Any help is appreciated.

Tom Bromm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 21:39:01 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

At 20:13 6/26/2002, dakken wrote:
>Could someone tell me what the coil resistance is supposed to be and if
>there is a different way to check it on 3S cars than on other cars?

1.2 Ohm on the primary coil between the connectors with little nuts, and
13.4 kOhm on the secondary coil as measured between the two posts.
No conductivity between the primary coil connectors and the secondary coil
connectors. That is what I measured on my car.

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 14:27:11 -0700
From: Rick Pierce <piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor mounts

Hey Tom,  I've got all four of the 3SX mount and I like them - The most I'll
ever do is road race and you only notice the vibration at idle - the engine
really is locked down, but it was pretty much over kill for my needs, but
they were cheaper than new stock ones.

There's a guy on 3Si that's making some that I would think are half way in
stiffness between stock and 3SX, they're only $75 for the front and rear
one - where all the rotational torque comes into play.  You might want to
try this - it worked for him.  If this was offered at the same time I
probably would have gone with his.

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=719773#post719773

Rick - on 3Si - Rick92VR4 (you can read my post there as well)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Terflinger" <terflit@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 12:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: Motor mounts

> I know someone said recently they were thinking of ordering new motor
mounts
> from 3SX performance and was wondering if anyone currently has these
> installed? Their website says you will notice more vibration etc. at idle
> but car should be ok driving, is this true? Also they are $269.00 for a
set
> of 4 (includes the one for the tranny) w/ a $250.00 core charge until they
> get yours. Is this price good/bad I cant find anyone else who sells
upgraded
> mounts. Also anyone know what it cost to replace w/ stock mounts and about
> how long they last w/ 425+ HP and a few trips to the drag strip?
>
> Thanks,
> TNT3KGT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 19:21:35 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor mounts

 From the thread, these are solid mounts, i.e. welded center tubes in
the stock engine mount locations, unless I read wrong.  They are not in
between the stock and 3sx mounts as far as stiffness, but rather must
stiffer than the 3sx mounts. But for the price, these are a great deal.
  Have fun, though, getting the rear mount in with the engine in the car!!!

Personally, I am going to go with the front 3 3sx mounts.  3 out of 4
should reduce much of the engine motion.  Yes, i know, though, that the
rear is probably the most important.  Don't have the time or effort to
pull the motor to put a new one in.

Damn


Rick Pierce wrote:

> Hey Tom,  I've got all four of the 3SX mount and I like them - The most I'll
> ever do is road race and you only notice the vibration at idle - the engine
> really is locked down, but it was pretty much over kill for my needs, but
> they were cheaper than new stock ones.
>
> There's a guy on 3Si that's making some that I would think are half way in
> stiffness between stock and 3SX, they're only $75 for the front and rear
> one - where all the rotational torque comes into play.  You might want to
> try this - it worked for him.  If this was offered at the same time I
> probably would have gone with his.
>
> http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=719773#post719773
>
> Rick - on 3Si - Rick92VR4 (you can read my post there as well)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 19:38:32 -0700
From: Rick Pierce <piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor mounts

Your right Damon,

I didn't see the post explaining the construction.  thanks for pointing it
out - they will be stiffer than the 3Sx Mounts (obviously).

Note the service manual says you can change the rear mount with the engine
in the car - but what a b**ch of a job.
Rick

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Rick Pierce" <piercera@pacbell.net>
Cc: "Tom Terflinger" <terflit@hotmail.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor mounts

> From the thread, these are solid mounts, i.e. welded center tubes in
> the stock engine mount locations, unless I read wrong.  They are not in
> between the stock and 3sx mounts as far as stiffness, but rather must
> stiffer than the 3sx mounts. But for the price, these are a great deal.
>   Have fun, though, getting the rear mount in with the engine in the
car!!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 22:55:24 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor mounts

Tom,

    One of the things that I have to replace before my project is complete
is my motor mounts.  I am NOT building a track car so the stock mounts are
fine for my purposes.  I looked into ordering the mounts through Lou Fusz
Mitsu here in St. Louis.  I don't remember exactly what they were going to
cost, but it seems like (EVEN WITH OUR "DISCOUNT") they were going to cost
me somewhere around $3-400 to replace all four.

    I started searching around and M&S Recycling told me they would sell me
mounts for $25 each, plus shipping.  Seems like a deal to me even if they
don't last as long as new or upgraded ones.

Hope this helps.

- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI # 0499)
        2K Wrangler TJ Sport
            St. Louis, MO
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Terflinger" <terflit@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 2:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: Motor mounts

> I know someone said recently they were thinking of ordering new motor
mounts
> from 3SX performance and was wondering if anyone currently has these
> installed? Their website says you will notice more vibration etc. at idle
> but car should be ok driving, is this true? Also they are $269.00 for a
set
> of 4 (includes the one for the tranny) w/ a $250.00 core charge until they
> get yours. Is this price good/bad I cant find anyone else who sells
upgraded
> mounts. Also anyone know what it cost to replace w/ stock mounts and about
> how long they last w/ 425+ HP and a few trips to the drag strip?
>
> Thanks,
> TNT3KGT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 00:07:19 -0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Motor mounts

Try Rockville Mitsu. By total coincidence I used to live a mile away and
visit the area frequently on business.

I just started calling local SE Florida dealers for prices on a Throttle
Position Sensor. Two locals came up with $171 and $142. Tallahasse was $126
(I think), Rockville was $106 or so.......and I'm here on business.
Hopefully BWI security will let me take the thing on board.......

Who knows what the price will be for $400 worth of kit. Let us know?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of William Jeffrey Crabtree
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:55 PM
To: Tom Terflinger; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor mounts

Tom,

    One of the things that I have to replace before my project is complete
is my motor mounts.  I am NOT building a track car so the stock mounts are
fine for my purposes.  I looked into ordering the mounts through Lou Fusz
Mitsu here in St. Louis.  I don't remember exactly what they were going to
cost, but it seems like (EVEN WITH OUR "DISCOUNT") they were going to cost
me somewhere around $3-400 to replace all four.

    I started searching around and M&S Recycling told me they would sell me
mounts for $25 each, plus shipping.  Seems like a deal to me even if they
don't last as long as new or upgraded ones.

Hope this helps.

- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI # 0499)
        2K Wrangler TJ Sport
            St. Louis, MO

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 21:28:25 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

> 1.2 Ohm on the primary coil between the connectors with little nuts, and
> 13.4 kOhm on the secondary coil as measured between the two posts.
> No conductivity between the primary coil connectors and the secondary coil
> connectors. That is what I measured on my car.

Thanks for the numbers.  I have my primaries at 1.4 and 1.8.  I can't get to
the rear coil tonight since I have to drain the radiator and take off the
radiator hose.  The secondaries are at 15.1, 14.7 and 15.2.  The car is
still warm from driving so I will take new numbers tomorrow with it cold.
The primary coil nuts are significantly corroded.  I'm going to buy
electrical contact cleaner and clean them up a bit.

I played with my SAFC like Matt suggested.  When I leaned out my fuel, the
car still hesitated and I get some detonation.  That was going from -20%
to -25% and -30%.  When I richened the fuel, it still hesitated.  From -20%
all the way up to -5%.  I also, just to try something different, I bypassed
the fuel pressure control solenoid's vacuum line.  Still had hesitation.
Through elimination, the problem must be a ignition one, unless I somehow
missed something.  I have just about replaced everything in my fuel system.

I'm going to look into my coils and maybe the ignition timing.  Not sure
what to check until I get my CD rom.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Performance Downpipe, Custom 3" cat
back, high flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors,
3SX SS braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, Thermo Tec exhaust wrap.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 00:47:48 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

At 00:28 6/27/2002, dakken wrote:
>Not sure what to check until I get my CD rom.

Here is an idea. Disconnect one ignition coil at a time. Just pull the coil
wires. Drive. It will drive like crap, but it will drive. Then disconnect
another coil. Then another. If you have hesitation in only two cases out of
three, then you know you have a bad coil or maybe a bad transistor.

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 00:51:57 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: 15G Turbos!

I started a turbo upgrade project tonight. The 15G's are coming in! It did
not start as smoothly as I hoped. Snapped two bolts and one wrench. But
nothing serious happened to stop the project. I may be asking questions
over the next several days.

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 01:00:30 EDT
From: Czarcd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

I was wondering is I  maybe put the throttle body gasket on wrong, does
anyone know which way it is supposed to go on?  Where does the tab go?  That 
could cause it, right?  Thanx in advance.

Carlo
Black
91 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 22:20:59 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

If the throttle body is flush with the intake manifold, then it is highly
unlikely that there is a leak there.  If you somehow installed the gasket
wrong, then you should be able to see the gasket misasligned and sticking
out.  If you want to put your mind at ease then just take the throttle body
back off and put some high temperature RTV on it before you reinstall it.

There are a lot of vacuum lines that connect to the throttle body.  If you
look on your hood, near the latch, you should see a diagram of most of the
vacuum hoses.

Also, at least on my car the Y pipe goes on very tight.  If the intake
manifold is cold, I can't get it all the way on.  The rubber portion of the
Y pipe should be up against the main potion of the throttle body.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 00:27:10 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

I don't think it'd fit the wrong way, but...

The tab should be towards the passenger compartment (if memory serves).

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Czarcd@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 12:01 AM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

I was wondering is I  maybe put the throttle body gasket on wrong, does
anyone know which way it is supposed to go on?  Where does the tab go?
That 
could cause it, right?  Thanx in advance.

Carlo
Black
91 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 23:57:43 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

Guys I pulled off my Y pipe from the throttle body, and found this rubber
thing inside the y pipe. I'm guessing that it is supposed to seal the y pipe
to the throttle body, but when I pulled the y-pipe the rubber thing was half
folded in on itself and couldn't possibly have been making a good seal. The
rubber thing itself seems in good condition, just a small crease in it where
it was folded. But I COULD NOT get it on. I tried putting the rubber thing
on the throttle body and then trying to put the y-pipe over it. That didn't
work, couldn't get the y-pipe on. Tried putting the rubber thing inside the
y pipe and then onto the throttle body. That failed even more miserably. Any
tips on how to get this thing back on? Perhaps if I expanded the plastic
y-pipe a bit with a pipe expander before trying to put it on? How have you
guys put it back on?
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member #4909
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
To: <Czarcd@aol.com>; <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:27 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak


> I don't think it'd fit the wrong way, but...
>
> The tab should be towards the passenger compartment (if memory serves).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:12:40 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear

it does work.  I had slippage under these conditions and none during normal
driving conditions.  I don't do "launches", but I imagine that the
consequences of clutch slippage during launch would be more dangerous and
unpredictable than the result at 50 mph and 6th gear.  As for the power,
that's what the turbos provide under a big demand situation like I
described.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill vp [SMTP:billvp@highstream.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 4:07 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: team3/S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
>
> 50 mph in 6th does
> not have enough power to cause the clutch to slip.  Why does this method
> work?  (if it does?)
>
> Best way to detect a slipping clutch is to get on the highway, put it in
> 6th
> gear about 50 mph and try to accellerate. If the clutch is slipping, you
> will get rpm spikes on the tach.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:26:17 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?

Those of us that datalog know that the ISC/IAC (stepper motor) is an integral
part of the ECM's strategy for proper fuel-air mixture control. It is THE way
that the ECM controls idle speed under varying operating conditions (cold
engine, warm engine, A/C startup, headlights on, etc.). The ECM also uses the
ISC during acceleration.

Driving the car without a functioning ISC (while possible according to cody)
is not a wise course of action (except perhaps as an emergency alternative to
being stranded) and should not be considered an alternative to repair or
replacement.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'Tom Bromm'" <tbromm68@hotmail.com>; <Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 7:25 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle stepper motor replacement?

I actually found myself able to run the car for (forever if needed),
with the ISC motor entirely non-functional...
<snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:43:57 -0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Motor mounts

All, thank you for your replys on 3sx and other motor mounts. Someone sent
me this link which I may try for fun first to repair/recondition your stock
motor mounts. Looks like this should work for all years and makes/models.
Take a look at the link that was sent to me, looks pretty easy to me!

"Tom, you can make your own urethane mounts for about $30, I personally
think that their price is a rip off! Check out
"http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:51:00 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

>> If you want to put your mind at ease then just take the throttle body
>> back off and put some high temperature RTV on it before you reinstall it.

OMG, DO NOT put any sealant (especially RTV) between the TB and plenum!!!!!
What a foolish suggestion!

Folks, take a look at the TB gasket. It is a preformed gasket with "channels"
in it to route air between passages *on the end* of the TB. That is why it is
important to install it correctly.

Now as for putting it on wrong, yes it is easily possible. The service manual
shows the correct position of the "nubbin" thing. But, FWIW, the mechanic that
re-built my engine must not have seen the worth in using a new TB gasket (the
original must have been ruined) and fabricated a new one out of a sheet of
gasket material. There were no channels for the air passages. Yet the idle or
running of the car did not seem to be noticeably affected. Go figure. I
replaced it with a new one, of course.

Homemade intake pressure tester (aka, leak finder):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: <Czarcd@aol.com>; <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:40:32 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

> OMG, DO NOT put any sealant (especially RTV) between the TB and
plenum!!!!!
> What a foolish suggestion!

If RTV is applied like a 3 year old spreads jelly on a PB&J sandwhich, then
yes, it is a very foolish suggestion.  I assume that people are smart enough
not to just gob it on and will not fill those channels.  I will follow my
suggestions with "*** Don't do this if you never touched a wrench before***"
from now on.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:58:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

The rubber gasket goes inside the Y pipe.  The gasket
has a ridge on one side.  The ridge side goes into the
Y pipe.  Take your finger and feel inside the pipe.
You will find the groove that the ridge fits into.

Then put the y-pipe onto the throttle body (make sure
the clamp is loose).  This takes a little work to get
it to slide on.  Usually holding the pipe so the other
end is higher that the throttle body (30-45 degrees),
then wiggle from side to side does the trick.

Attach the other hoses, and be sure to get the
'wastegate actuator hose' attached.  It's on the
y-pipe, near the throttle body on the side that faces
the firewall.  Looks like a vacuum hose.  If you
forget this hose, you will overboost and likely blow
the pipe right back off. 

Glenn
'93 VR-4

- --- Donald Ashby III <dashbyiii@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Guys I pulled off my Y pipe from the throttle body,
> and found this rubber
> thing inside the y pipe. I'm guessing that it is
> supposed to seal the y pipe
> to the throttle body, but when I pulled the y-pipe
> the rubber thing was half
> folded in on itself and couldn't possibly have been
> making a good seal. The
> rubber thing itself seems in good condition, just a
> small crease in it where
> it was folded. But I COULD NOT get it on. I tried
> putting the rubber thing
> on the throttle body and then trying to put the
> y-pipe over it. That didn't
> work, couldn't get the y-pipe on. Tried putting the
> rubber thing inside the
> y pipe and then onto the throttle body. That failed
> even more miserably. Any
> tips on how to get this thing back on? Perhaps if I
> expanded the plastic
> y-pipe a bit with a pipe expander before trying to
> put it on? How have you
> guys put it back on?
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4
> Member #4909

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 11:05:37 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: ECU Harness Tap

Is there an aftermarket device that plugs into the ECU so that I can tap
easier into its wires?  I would rather not splice the original ones.

I saw one of these ECU Harness Taps for other cars such as Supra.

- -MIHAI-
95 3000GT VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:26:17 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

Other folks have had trouble and I've see it suggested that heating the end
of the Y pipe in hot water to make it more flexible works. A little soap and
water mix on the gasket helps it slide on --- don't use oil or the Y pipe will
pop off, the soap and water dries out.

        Jim Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "glenn amy" <glenn_amy@yahoo.com>

> The rubber gasket goes inside the Y pipe.  The gasket
> has a ridge on one side.  The ridge side goes into the
> Y pipe.  Take your finger and feel inside the pipe.
> You will find the groove that the ridge fits into.
>
> Then put the y-pipe onto the throttle body (make sure
> the clamp is loose).  This takes a little work to get
> it to slide on.  Usually holding the pipe so the other
> end is higher that the throttle body (30-45 degrees),
> then wiggle from side to side does the trick.
>
> Attach the other hoses, and be sure to get the
> 'wastegate actuator hose' attached.  It's on the
> y-pipe, near the throttle body on the side that faces
> the firewall.  Looks like a vacuum hose.  If you
> forget this hose, you will overboost and likely blow
> the pipe right back off. 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:48:19 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S: Another Thunderhill HPDS update

Greetings,

Saturday, June 22 was another Thunderhill Park High Performance Driving
School event. There were 2 3Sers in attendance, me in my '91 VR4 and Ann in
her '93 Stealth RT/TT. This was my 6th event and I've noticed that I'm
really getting to know the car (and the track).

First a plug for the Thunderhill HPDS. I have yet to personally experience
other types of events (NASA, other schools, etc). I'm thinking, based on
what I've heard and read from other peoples experiences that the
Thunderhill event is one of the best days at the track for the money. "C"
group drivers get 6 sessions of 20 minutes and have access to instructors
who will ride in the car, giving real time feed back. After most sessions
the groups have a download session to discuss the previous driving session.
The group instructor also uses this time to challenge the students to try
new things. All this and a great, safe track too. The school event cost is
$195 and includes lunch, social after, and a tee-shirt. Thunderhill is in
northern California, about 100 miles north of Sacramento.

On to the latest event. It was another good day at the track (for most).
This is the first event I've attended where they actually had to tow cars
off the track. An MR2 cooked it's ignition, an instructors car (he he) blew
the fuel line off the manifold and caused a car fire, and several cars went
off track and needed a tow.

Apart from that, this was one of the best "C" group runs I've had. There
was a strong contingent of Porches, a few Vetts, a couple of RX7s (one was
TT and was the hot car of the day, smoking everyone). The 3Sers did the
group proud (I think).

I think I have dialed in my tire pressures now. I have pretty new Firestone
Firehawk SZ50-EP tires. They have great traction (even better in the rain I
hear) and a high wear rating (340). My first time out (May 5) on them I was
running them at 40psi all around and I thought I was driving on ice,
drifting in every corner. So I've been tweeking the pressure to find a
setting which I think works best for me. I've settled in with 38psi front,
35 psi rear. This past event, starting at those pressures, I could tell
when the tires were warming up and the pressure was rising. I'd drop the
pressure back to 38/35 after each session and the car felt great.

The main thing I learned this time out was throttle steer. In the afternoon
our group instructor told us how it works and suggested we use turn 2 (180
degree, wide sweeping turn) to experiment with it, accelerate to push out,
lift to weight the front tires and turn the car tighter. I gave it a try
and found the VR4 to respond quickly. I'd lift the gas a little and the car
would clock into the turn a little more. Major cool. After a few laps
playing with throttle steer in turn 2, I applied it to turn 4 and it worked
great. I can hardly wait to work on it again.

- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:30:06 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

Another fuel-related thing to think about would be the Fuel Pump Relay (the
one that steps down the voltage at 3000?RPM).  Try bypassing that relay
(will run your pump at full voltage all the time) using a wire, paper clip,
or whatever else you have handy.   Ok, so the paper clip was a joke, but
it'll work in a pinch. 

Have you hooked up a pressure gauge to your high-pressure fuel line?  Is
your fuel pressure ok?

Have you verified the connections between your SAFC and the various
ECM-related wires?  Did you use crimp connectors or did you solder the
wires?  One of the locals here had some weird leanness issues (verified good
fuel pressure, clean fuel filter, etc,) at high RPM and they strangely went
away after he disconnected his SAFC wires and reconnected them.  Then two of
the (crimp-type) connectors came off around 4000RPM in 3rd during a 1/4mi
pass at the track Friday.  His quote as he exited the track was that it was
"the worst spark plug blow-out EVER".  Engine's ok, but yikes!

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:42:34 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update

To be fair, the connectors didn't come off during the run.  They came off
when I tried to disconnect the connectors (ie the wire came out instead of
the connector disconnecting). 

>
> Have you verified the connections between your SAFC and the various
> ECM-related wires?  Did you use crimp connectors or did you solder the
> wires?  One of the locals here had some weird leanness issues
> (verified good
> fuel pressure, clean fuel filter, etc,) at high RPM and they
> strangely went
> away after he disconnected his SAFC wires and reconnected
> them.  Then two of
> the (crimp-type) connectors came off around 4000RPM in 3rd
> during a 1/4mi
> pass at the track Friday.  His quote as he exited the track
> was that it was
> "the worst spark plug blow-out EVER".  Engine's ok, but yikes!
>
> --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:28:21 -0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump

Hi All,
>
> Has anyone installed a Venom superpump in their Stealth TT? Just
> bought one not yet installed Supposedly rated at 300LPH@40psi. Venom's

> site blows for good information.=20
>
> Can it be installed in the tank?
> Should the Factory pump be replaced or left in place? Moving toward
> big HP so I want to do it right the first time.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:48:34 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel pump

If going big HP do you self a favor get either the GT Pro(via Dynamic
Racing) or AAM fuel systems'    They include everything but the injectors.
Noteworthy bit of info, the AAM system uses an external pump (the Aeromotive
1KHP model) as where the GTP uses a pair of internals (not sure of brand).
Also the GTP fuel system has 2 bulkhead fittings that have to be installed
on the top of the factory fuel pump carrier assembly as where the AAM only
has one.......

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben M. Jones [SMTP:benjones@protechgp.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 1:28 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump
>
>
> Hi All,
> >
> > Has anyone installed a Venom superpump in their Stealth TT? Just
> > bought one not yet installed Supposedly rated at 300LPH@40psi. Venom's
>
> > site blows for good information.=20
> >
> > Can it be installed in the tank?
> > Should the Factory pump be replaced or left in place? Moving toward
> > big HP so I want to do it right the first time.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ben

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:12:59 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump

No in-tank replacement fuel pump flows more than the Supra Turbo Denso, up to
70 psi line pressure. The Supra pump flows ~300 lph at 40 psi @ 13.5 volts and
costs about $200 at Conicelli Toyota.

Complete 3S fuel pump upgrade info (the definitive upgrade guide):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

Fuel pump R&R instructions:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump.htm

How to check the voltage at the fuel pump:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpvoltage.htm

Fuel pump re-wire (get the most from your present pump or upgrade):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-rewire.htm
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-hotwire.htm

Fuel pump resistor by-pass "mod":
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumprelaybypass.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
To: "Team3S List (E-mail)" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 11:28 AM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump

Hi All,
>
> Has anyone installed a Venom superpump in their Stealth TT? Just
> bought one not yet installed Supposedly rated at 300LPH@40psi. Venom's

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:07:07 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Weird!

Anybody else had this happen?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave and Becky Trent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:25 PM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
>
> Chuck,
>
> I replaced the cap last year after discovering fluid draining from the
> cap.
> It didn't help.  My guess is that the big reds are getting the Motul hot
> enough to expand/bubble up in the reservoir through the vent hole.  I
> can't
> be sure as I can't find anyone to ride in the engine bay during hard track
> time.  The problem is mostly resolved by only running the reservoir half
> full.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:05:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Yep..ive had it happen.

Motul isnt foolproof, it can boil.

Might be a time to talk about dust plates, cooling mods for the brakes, or
brake management.

On Thu, 27 Jun 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> Weird!
>
> Anybody else had this happen?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:00:52 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Kinda a random idea but how about having the brakepad backer white lightning
coated?   Shouldn't be that expensive.........  maybe 25 for the pair?

Also brake cooling ducts, and if feeling real froggy do a water misting
system?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 4:05 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: 'Dave and Becky Trent'; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
>
> Yep..ive had it happen.
>
> Motul isnt foolproof, it can boil.
>
> Might be a time to talk about dust plates, cooling mods for the brakes, or
> brake management.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:13:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Id have the caliper treated, before the pad backing plate..thats throwing
money away faster than even I would like.

Swain will coat the inside of your calipers for this.

On Thu, 27 Jun 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:

> Kinda a random idea but how about having the brakepad backer white lightning
> coated?   Shouldn't be that expensive.........  maybe 25 for the pair?
>
> Also brake cooling ducts, and if feeling real froggy do a water misting
> system?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 4:05 PM
> > To: Willis, Charles E.
> > Cc: 'Dave and Becky Trent'; Team3s
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
> >
> > Yep..ive had it happen.
> >
> > Motul isnt foolproof, it can boil.
> >
> > Might be a time to talk about dust plates, cooling mods for the brakes, or
> > brake management.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:04:58 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: More brakes

>Might be a time to talk about dust plates, cooling mods for the brakes, or
>brake management.
>
I have air blowers mounted, but not wired up yet. They will force air directly onto the rotor without needing low-hanging air ducts. I plan to wire them up this weekend, then try them out at Midamerica on Tuesday.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:10:11 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

That's what I meant.....  I am behind the ball today.....   Now my question
is how effective would it be?

Been in so many training classes the past 2 days I feel like K Reeves in the
matrix  "I know Kung Fu"

Russ F
CT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 4:13 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc: Willis, Charles E.; 'Dave and Becky Trent'; Team3s
> Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
>
> Id have the caliper treated, before the pad backing plate..thats throwing
> money away faster than even I would like.
>
> Swain will coat the inside of your calipers for this.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:06:55 -0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Electrical components

All, is there a fuse or relay that affects both headlights, seat controls,
and possibley power steering? I rarely drive my car at night but on the way
home the other evening I noticed after leaving the city I had no high or low
beams. Interior lighting is fine and parking lights and turn signals also
work. The next day I noticed the driver seat controls stopped working also
and to top it off the car feels like it has no power steering. (that one is
really weird to me) I got out and checked fuses inside car and power
steering fluid level is fine. I ended up driving home w/ the aid of catz fog
lights!

Thanks,
Tom

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:24:26 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Yes. I've been meaning to chime in.

Last September I took my VR4 to a high performance driving school, with the
guy who sold me the car. We shared the car, doubling the time on the track.
Being a novice at this, I had yet to upgrade anything. We were to run 10
sessions combined. During the 8th session (my friend was driving) the
brakes went bye-bye. Boiled the fluid big time. I think we also warped the
front rotors as the car would vibrate during braking when the brakes were
hot. We rested the car for an hour and I was able to drive the last
session, using the brakes sparingly. Made it home okay and dove into
upgrading the brakes. I'm still 1st Gen calipers. I went with Porterfield
rotors (cryo treated), stainless steel brake lines (Porterfield) and
Porterfield R4S pads. Also, replaced all brake fluid with ATE Super Blue
Racing. I have yet to have brake fade or vibrations since.

I had noticed that occasionally the reservoir cap would be loose. After my
next to last event (June 1), the little brake light flashed briefly as I
started for home. I thought it was the hand brake and wiggled it and the
light stayed off. I went to drive the car to work a week later and as I
climbed a small hill on the way to the freeway, the light did it again. I
again wiggled the hand brake and then decided to stop and just check the
fluid level to be sure. The cap was loose and the reservoir was almost
empty. I drove home and picked a different car that day. I checked my whole
system and had yet to find any leaks so I started thinking that when I
boiled the fluid last September, I did a number on the cap. I ordered a new
cap and diaphragm from Mitsu (about $20) and drove the car several times to
work (about 40 miles) in some stop and go traffic. Then took the car to a
driving event last Saturday. I checked the cap and fluid level throughout
the day and the level stayed at max. I'm thinking that the new cap was the key.

I'm wanting to add more capacity to my brakes and am considering removing
the dust shields and adding ducts.

I'd like to get some additional input concerning the dust shields. The
upside of removing them is better cooling. I hesitate to remove them until
I think I know all the down sides. I'd appreciate any input as to what I
might be losing if I remove them.

Thanks.

At 07:07 AM 6/27/02 , you wrote:
>Weird!
>
>Anybody else had this happen?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave and Becky Trent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:25 PM
> > To:   Team3s
> > Subject:      Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
> >
> > Chuck,
> >
> > I replaced the cap last year after discovering fluid draining from the
> > cap.
> > It didn't help.  My guess is that the big reds are getting the Motul hot
> > enough to expand/bubble up in the reservoir through the vent hole.

- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:35:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

YES..those dust shields are almost as limiting as your stock pads were.

In my case, our RX7 went from a 5-lap nightmare to where I never have
problems in any amount of time on a track.

On Thu, 27 Jun 2002, Michael Gerhard wrote:

> Yes. I've been meaning to chime in.
>
> Last September I took my VR4 to a high performance driving school, with the
> guy who sold me the car. We shared the car, doubling the time on the track.
> Being a novice at this, I had yet to upgrade anything. We were to run 10
> sessions combined. During the 8th session (my friend was driving) the
> brakes went bye-bye. Boiled the fluid big time. I think we also warped the
> front rotors as the car would vibrate during braking when the brakes were
> hot. We rested the car for an hour and I was able to drive the last
> session, using the brakes sparingly. Made it home okay and dove into
> upgrading the brakes. I'm still 1st Gen calipers. I went with Porterfield
> rotors (cryo treated), stainless steel brake lines (Porterfield) and
> Porterfield R4S pads. Also, replaced all brake fluid with ATE Super Blue
> Racing. I have yet to have brake fade or vibrations since.
>
> I had noticed that occasionally the reservoir cap would be loose. After my
> next to last event (June 1), the little brake light flashed briefly as I
> started for home. I thought it was the hand brake and wiggled it and the
> light stayed off. I went to drive the car to work a week later and as I
> climbed a small hill on the way to the freeway, the light did it again. I
> again wiggled the hand brake and then decided to stop and just check the
> fluid level to be sure. The cap was loose and the reservoir was almost
> empty. I drove home and picked a different car that day. I checked my whole
> system and had yet to find any leaks so I started thinking that when I
> boiled the fluid last September, I did a number on the cap. I ordered a new
> cap and diaphragm from Mitsu (about $20) and drove the car several times to
> work (about 40 miles) in some stop and go traffic. Then took the car to a
> driving event last Saturday. I checked the cap and fluid level throughout
> the day and the level stayed at max. I'm thinking that the new cap was the key.
>
> I'm wanting to add more capacity to my brakes and am considering removing
> the dust shields and adding ducts.
>
> I'd like to get some additional input concerning the dust shields. The
> upside of removing them is better cooling. I hesitate to remove them until
> I think I know all the down sides. I'd appreciate any input as to what I
> might be losing if I remove them.
>
> Thanks.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 14:07:18 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

are you saying that when you removed the dust shields, the pad temps
dropped to where you had no additional problems, even without ducts?

Geoff Mohler wrote:

> YES..those dust shields are almost as limiting as your stock pads were.
>
> In my case, our RX7 went from a 5-lap nightmare to where I never have
> problems in any amount of time on a track.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 14:21:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Correct..

On Thu, 27 Jun 2002, Damon Rachell wrote:

> are you saying that when you removed the dust shields, the pad temps
> dropped to where you had no additional problems, even without ducts?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:10:17 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Folks...

Three "quick" comments. First, please delete parts of the thread that
aren't needed. Leaving a three page thread and adding one word creates
nightmares for those Team3S listmembers who receive the digest version.
Second, the rotor and pad temperatures do drop "significantly" when the
dust shields are removed. I've run the open track both ways, and
although I've still managed to warp my rotors (Stillen) both ways, there
was virtually no fade after a dozen hard laps when I had upgraded to SS
brake lines, Porterfield R4 pads, and Motul blue fluid. Third, the
downside is dust. It depends on what color your car is, and what you do
with it (race only? commute only? both?), or if you care if it's clean,
but taking off the dust shields and using racing pads like the R4s
literally covered my doors and the rear quarter panels half way up the
side of the car with brake pad dust. Perhaps this is more of a problem
for me because my VR4 is Glacier Pearl White and partly because I keep
it polished to as near to show condition as possible. The end result for
me? I put the dust shields back on and took out the Porterfields. Just
like we've had threads about dropping a few pounds for the 1/4 mile, I
don't go to the open track enough to make it worth the constant washing
and waxing required by race pads with no dust shields.

Looking forward...Chris

Subject: Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration

Geoff Mohler wrote: Correct..
<snip>
Damon Rachell wrote: are you saying that when you removed the dust
shields, the pad temps dropped to where you had no additional problems,
even without ducts?
<snip>
Michael Gerhard wrote: I'm wanting to add more capacity to my brakes and
am considering removing the dust shields and adding ducts. I'd like to
get some additional input concerning the dust shields. The upside of
removing them is better cooling. I hesitate to remove them until I think
I know all the down sides. I'd appreciate any input as to what I might
be losing if I remove them.
<snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:21:40 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak

You get to buy a new y-pipe or modify yours with a large hose to connect to
the throttle body.  You can't buy the seal seperately from the y-pipe. Just
a little Mitsu "feature".

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Donald Ashby III [SMTP:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 12:58 AM
> To: team3s
> Subject: Re: Team3S: How to find a vacuum leak
>
> Guys I pulled off my Y pipe from the throttle body, and found this rubber
> thing inside the y pipe. I'm guessing that it is supposed to seal the y
> pipe
> to the throttle body, but when I pulled the y-pipe the rubber thing was
> half
> folded in on itself and couldn't possibly have been making a good seal.
> The
> rubber thing itself seems in good condition, just a small crease in it
> where
> it was folded. But I COULD NOT get it on. I tried putting the rubber thing
> on the throttle body and then trying to put the y-pipe over it. That
> didn't
> work, couldn't get the y-pipe on. Tried putting the rubber thing inside
> the
> y pipe and then onto the throttle body. That failed even more miserably.
> Any
> tips on how to get this thing back on? Perhaps if I expanded the plastic
> y-pipe a bit with a pipe expander before trying to put it on? How have you
> guys put it back on?
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4
> Member #4909

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:10:34 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear

Question is whether reverse or 1st gear has highest gear ratio.

Which gear requires the engine to turn the most times per tire revolution.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mjannusch@attbi.com [SMTP:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:48 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
>
> > If you put it in reverse facing downhill and it
> > still rolls, your clutch is slipping.
>
> The gear you are in has nothing to do with whether it
> the car can roll downhill in a manual transmission
> car.  It is just as easy for the weight to spin the
> motor backwards as it is forwards.  If the clutch was
> slipping under that small load, it would be slipping
> like crazy when trying to accelerate where a lot more
> torque is involved.
>
> Its the parking brakes, if anything.  I find it hard to
> believe that this is really a discussion.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #882
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