Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
880
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:52:39 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Can someone give a
quick answer as to why my car will creep downhill
when parked on a hill and
turned off and in gear (any gear including
reverse)? Most
annoying. Some hills around Pittsburgh are too steep to
use the parking
brake since the gear is obviously not holding it.
I thought a higher
compression gear would make it harder for the car to
try and turn over the
engine but every gear fails to hold the car. What
do I need to look for
and replace or fix other than shed 1,500 pounds
off the car?
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:37:50
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Chuck,
But it
isn't the parking brake that I'm worried about. It is the fact
that
parked in gear the car wants to creep forward. Not quite like
jumping
out of gear but it doesn't hold back too much either.
The parking brake
is good enough to hold a car that has its gear holding
back most of the
weight. The parking brake will never hold a 4,000
pound car on a
35-degree slope for extended periods of time. At least,
I wouldn't
trust my car to be in neutral being held only be the e-brake.
But the
fact remains that in gear the car will want to creep forward.
So I'm not sure
if there is something to look at to fix or is a vacuum
hose is leaking and
not holding a vacuum in there somewhere.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002
10:26
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
adjust your
parking brake. I can't understand how a hill could be too
steep for the
parking brake. you might also clean the brake dust out of
the drum
onthe rear brakes so you get better grip. also consider
replacing the
rear brake shoes.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:41:21
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
My first thought is
that the clutch is slipping. I'm thinking that you can
see if this is the
case by parking in a way that you know the car will
creep. Then open the
hood and watch to see if the engine is turning while
the car creeps.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:47:03
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Sorry, Mike. The
car creeps and gains momentum faster than people are
thinking I guess.
I don't have time to get out and chock the wheels
sometime. It either
didn't start happening until recently or I never
parked on steep hills until
recently. I am not about to step in front
of the car while this is
happening. I'll see if I can point the video
camera in there though -
maybe enlist the local neighborhood kids to
help me and put them in front of
the tank.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:51:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
(The original message
was not forwarded since it was emailed to me
privately and list rules prevent
me from posting it to the list without
approval; however, my response is more
than welcome on the list so here
it is.)
Bob,
I
don't have time to park the car and get out to chock the wheels as
the car
nearly instantly starts to creep/roll downhill. I said that I
tried
every gear in every direction (6 forward gears and 1 reverse gear
while
facing uphill and the same while facing downhill). I think I
tried it
with the e-brake and it held but you could tell if your
friendly high school
Linebacker were you sit in the passenger seat that
the car would probably
start moving.
Pittsburgh has some flat spots but many up and
down hilly areas and
it is not always efficient to find the flat spot to
park. Rims are not
pristine so I do put them into the curb like Drivers
Ed teaches but not
all streets have curbs either.
The car in
gear and e-brake will hold on small hills (not sure of the
angle but let's
say 15 degrees) but anything steeper and I prefer not to
chance it.
Anything over 30 degrees is definitely out.
I even tried
parking, turning off the car, turning on the car (to get
out any compression
or vacuum back into the master cylinder or
something), turning off the car
again. Still creeps. Guess I'll shoot
some video so I can note to
myself what is going on.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:55:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Chuck,
I don't
dispute it, but I certainly don't want to put $25,000 in the
hands of $40 of
parking brake shoes/pads. I would rather drive 400 feet
down the hill,
park, and walk up the hill. The e-brake only prevents
the rear wheels
from turning by applying the brake pad. The rear wheels
can still turn
(as evidenced by the fact that a hand-brake turn is done
and still allows the
rear wheels to turn some even when applied fully
... say ... at 80 mph for
example). I don't have Porterfield R-4 pads
on the e-brake so it isn't
the end-all solution.
I do know that the gear is supposed to hold the car
from moving all
wheels not just two wheels like the e-brake. My bet is
on a system that
prevents all four from moving (tranny and all) and that is
just not
happening.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002
10:50
If you dispute the ability of the parking brake to hold the car on
an
incline, when it is designed to PREVENT the rear wheels from
turning,
why would you expect the drive train, which is designed specifically
to
TURN the wheels, to be able to PREVENT movement on an
incline?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:56:31
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car creeping forward while parked in gear
There is no way in hell your
engine is going to stop a car from creeping
downhill ---- mine holds in my
driveway but I wouldn't trust it for much else.
Unless you have 0%
compression leakdown the car will roll --- compression
is the main thing that
holds the car in place and the worse your leakdown
the faster it will start
to roll. Friction will help hold it on gentle slopes but not
anything very
aggressive. The E brake is designed to hold on steep slopes,
if it doesn't
adjust it so it's tight.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:55:56
-0400
From: HigherBeing <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
If I may add
alittle something here,, I am not sure why the vehicle actually
creeps
forward, My coment is about the parking brake. My 93 Stealth RT/TT
when
I park this baby i have to be in Neutral and the emergency brake must
be on
befoe I get out everytime, Reasons being i use the HKS turbo timmer
and this
wil not allows the car to stay running unless car is in neutral
and
parking brake oh. And Being a mechanic i must say that I trust hsat
brake
becasue I have seen my car sit on hills preety steep here.
Sorry I cannot
answer your question about the creeping thught wighout
actually seeing hte
car. I just wanted to reassure you that the parking
brake is
suffucent.
Jerry B. 93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth
E/S
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 08:11:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
A properly
maintained parking brake..is sufficient.
On Tue, 25 Jun 2002, HigherBeing
wrote:
> If I may add alittle something here,, I am not sure why the
vehicle actually
> creeps forward, My coment is about the parking
brake. My 93 Stealth RT/TT
> when I park this baby i have to be in
Neutral and the emergency brake must
> be on befoe I get out everytime,
Reasons being i use the HKS turbo timmer
> and this wil not allows the car
to stay running unless car is in neutral
> and parking brake oh. And
Being a mechanic i must say that I trust hsat
> brake becasue I have seen
my car sit on hills preety steep here.
>
> Sorry I cannot answer
your question about the creeping thught wighout
> actually seeing hte car.
I just wanted to reassure you that the parking
> brake is
suffucent.
>
> Jerry B. 93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth
E/S
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 11:07:40
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Thanks Jerry, Jim,
Chuck, and Bob. I have no doubt there is some
compression there that is
helping the car to roll and although I do not
use the e-brake on high-speed
runs (so the pads should not be worn down
to nothing) I'll try to take a look
at them. The parking brake has been
adjusted to near specs (so that
around 7 clicks or so it is at full
power instead of more than n12 clicks and
still going). If this is the
case then either the cables are letting go
of some of the tension or the
pads are slipping. I'll try to take a
look at them next chance I get.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:41:00
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
> The e-brake only
prevents the rear wheels from
> turning by applying the brake
pad.
Which is EXACTLY what you need when parking.
> The rear
wheels can still turn (as evidenced
> by the fact that a hand-brake turn
is done
> and still allows the rear wheels to turn some even
> when
applied fully ... say ... at 80 mph for
> example). I don't have
Porterfield R-4 pads
> on the e-brake so it isn't the end-all
solution.
You aren't stopping from 80 with the parking brake.
These two comparisons are completely and totally
different
situations. The parking brake is MADE to
hold your car on an incline
by preventing the rear
wheels from turning. If you don't trust it,
then don't
park on hills. Engine compression alone is NOT going
to
hold your car in place reliably - especially on a
turbo car with 8.0:1
compression. It ISN'T designed to
do that - the parking brake
IS.
> I do know that the gear is supposed to hold the car
> from
moving all wheels not just two wheels like the
> e-brake. My bet is
on a system that prevents all
> four from moving (tranny and all) and that
is just
> not happening.
The tranny and motor are not designed to
stop the
wheels from moving. There's not enough compression
braking for it to do that on a hill.
Use the parking brake.
That's what it is for. You
don't need fancy pads to make it work, just
pull on the
handle and call it good. If your parking brake is
weak, then you can adjust the cable tension under the
center
console.
I would NEVER trust any motor to hold a car in gear on
a
hill. That's just asking for trouble.
Don't forget to turn your
wheels after you are parked
so that if the car does roll the wheels get
blocked up
against the curb.
They teach this stuff in Driver's
Ed...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:49:33
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
If you dispute the
ability of the parking brake to hold the car on an
incline, when it is
designed to PREVENT the rear wheels from turning, why
would you expect the
drive train, which is designed specifically to TURN the
wheels, to be able to
PREVENT movement on an incline?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:54:05
+0200
From: "Primus Motor AS" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
How to install a original Sunrrof (or Targa Roof) on a original Dodge Stealth RT
twinturbo Coupe
Hello,
does anyone know at what year the Dodge
Stealth RT twinturbo could be
ordered with a original Sunroof or Targa Roof ?
(I have never seen any
pictures of the vehicle with a original Sunroof or
Targa Roof installed, so
I am not sure about what options that really are
available).
Have anyone experience with fitting a original Sunroof or
Targa Roof (if
available) on a original Coupé. Did you experience any
problems doing so? Is
it made any structural reinforcement on the models with
a Targa Roof ? (like
on the Corvette Convertible).
Does anyone have
any experience with the Mitsubishi 3000GT convertible? (I
guess this was
built by ASC). I had a 1995 Toyota Celica GT convertible,
built by ASC, and
in my opinion, that had a lot of chassis vibration on bad
roads.
Best
regards,
Roger
Firma
Primus Motor
AS
Postadresse
Postboks 4646 Nydalen, 0405
Oslo
Kontor-/besøksadresse Olaf Schousvei 7, 0572
Oslo
Telefon
22 38 38 22 - 9002
1992
Telefax
22 87 07 71
Web
side
http://primusmotor.no<
http://primusmotor.no>
E-mail
post@primusmotor.no***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:43:56
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Darren,
It really
doesn't take that much force to turn the engine over when
the car is
off/parked. It takes even less to turn the drivetrain.
In fact, I can
put a wrench on the crankshaft nut and turn the
engine with the drivetrain
engaged (1st or reverse) with probably 150ft-lbs
or so when the car's up on
jackstands. When the tranny's in neutral, I can
turn the engine with
closer to 100ft-lbs. That's not a lot of force,
especially with a
3800lb car on a steep slope. These are ballpark force
guesses based on
a 18" wrench and me pulling on the end of it.
As others have said, I don't
think I'd expect the motor's
compression to hold the car on a steep slope,
even if you had 0% leakdown.
We don't have a locking mechanism like an
automatic when it's in "Park".
And even those don't hold, given enough
force. (AMHIK)
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:56:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Charles..my point
was not to trust the Ebrake without knowing its in
prooper adjustment..thats
all.
On Tue, 25 Jun 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> If you
dispute the ability of the parking brake to hold the car on an
> incline,
when it is designed to PREVENT the rear wheels from turning, why
> would
you expect the drive train, which is designed specifically to TURN the
>
wheels, to be able to PREVENT movement on an incline?
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:33:51
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
MUT-II and Knock '94+
Back on February 18th, someone asked
this:
> Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock on
> any
3S '94 and up?
Roger replied:
> Yes, it displays
knock.
Well, I have a MUT-II in my hands with ROM pack
MB991710 and
nowhere in the MUT-II can I find an option
that displays the knock
sum.
Can anyone who has supposedly seen this work find out
how their
mechanic got it to display the knock value?
I'm also looking for the
fuel trim values, which aren't
displayed either. Is this stuff in some
hidden menu or
something like that?
I'd appreciate any
help...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:30:05
-0600
From: norman ross <
normanross@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Fw: oil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: norman ross
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st >
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 6:34 AM
> Subject: oil
>
> I
have a91 Stealth R/T none tubro what is the best oil to put in.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:02:38
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AI Nut aka David Merchant
Does
anyone know the status on AI Nut (David Merchant) ?
I've been trying to
contact him to no avail.
The phone number I have for him gives a
"generic" greeting and his
E-mails come back as:
The account has exceeded
disk quota.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:09:50
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How to install a original Sunrrof (or Targa Roof)
I didn't think
any Stealth had a sunroof but only the 3000GT did.
I don't know about the
convertible. I'm not fortunate to be an owner of
that car but several
on here know everything there is so they will
respond.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Primus Motor AS
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002
13:54
Hello,
does anyone know at what year the Dodge Stealth RT
twinturbo could be
ordered with a original Sunroof or Targa Roof ? (I have
never seen any
pictures of the vehicle with a original Sunroof or Targa Roof
installed,
so I am not sure about what options that really are
available).
Have anyone experience with fitting a original Sunroof or
Targa Roof (if
available) on a original Coupé. Did you experience any
problems doing
so? Is it made any structural reinforcement on the models with
a Targa
Roof ? (like on the Corvette Convertible).
Does anyone have
any experience with the Mitsubishi 3000GT convertible?
(I guess this was
built by ASC). I had a 1995 Toyota Celica GT
convertible, built by ASC, and
in my opinion, that had a lot of chassis
vibration on bad
roads.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:42:10
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+
Umpgf, I can't remember how he did it.
He hooked up the MUT-II, inserted the
module (European 3000GT 1st gen) and
then started the engine. He controlled
the temperature values as the front
fan was always on. After finding the
switch not working, I asked him about
knock. He then switched around and
showed a display showing 0. He then went
out, took a long screwdriver and
rubber hammer and knocked to the plate where
the sensor is mounted on. The
display started to jump and showed a high value
for about 2 seconds until it
dissapeared. He was then also able to replay the
data later. Sorry, I'm not
of more help.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 8:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock
'94+
> Back on February 18th, someone asked this:
>
> >
Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read knock on
> > any 3S '94 and
up?
>
> Roger replied:
>
> > Yes, it displays
knock.
>
> Well, I have a MUT-II in my hands with ROM pack
>
MB991710 and nowhere in the MUT-II can I find an option
> that displays
the knock sum.
>
> Can anyone who has supposedly seen this work find
out
> how their mechanic got it to display the knock value?
> I'm
also looking for the fuel trim values, which aren't
> displayed
either. Is this stuff in some hidden menu or
> something like
that?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:50:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How to install a original Sunrrof (or Targa Roof)
I don't know of
how many first generation Dodge
Stealth
came with the factory sun roof but
mine has a sun roof
that has to be removed my hand and then there is
a
storage holder in the trunk that still allows for
luggage under the
glass roof, plus it has a couple of
turn fittings that hold it down so no
rattle. Mine
came from the factory that way and is not a after
market sun
roof.
Peter 92 Stealth TT, K&N filter..13G turbos, upgraded
fuel
lines.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:54:55
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Thanks, Chuck.
You are only the second person to respond that if the
car is creeping (i.e.
the engine is turning) then the clutch is
slipping. That is basically
what I was looking for from the beginning
and not people telling me to review
my Driver's Ed book about turning
the wheels to the curb (although I don't
mind the reinforcement).
I don't want to cover up the problem of a
slipping clutch simply by
applying the hand brake. That is like turning
up the radio louder
instead of fixing the knocking sound which later turns
out to be some
bent rods.
And I'm telling you and others that I had
applied the parking brake but
it was not holding so either the cable was not
tight enough, the shoes
had worn down, or something else was wrong. I
had that inspected today
and pad was 50% remaining so either it was not tight
enough or had
something impeding it's full range of motion (like dirt or a
bracket,
screw not allowing the cable to be actuated, or debris in the
drum).
It works now although now I need to tighten it within specs (which
in
the manual says 3-5 clicks and mine was around 7). So whatever
Mr.
Brake Shop removed or lubed up has made it move easier now and I need
to
tighten the cable again.
Thanks for hammering on me though
Chuck. It's all good.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002
11:06
If you put it in reverse facing downhill and it still rolls, your
clutch
is slipping.
And come on now, you are telling me you can't lock
up the rear wheels
with the parking brake?
BTW that's the name of the
device: PARKING BRAKE. It's for keeping the
car from rolling when it's
parked.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:55:02
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Copper plugs - where to get?
All -
Last weekend at the
track, I was having some problems during runs that I
think were either
pre-detonation or spark blowout. I pulled my front plugs
last night
(Denso Iridiums, stock heat range, gapped at .038), and they look
like
they've been running pretty hot. A little archive/search reading
last
night told me that many people recommend running these plugs at least
one
and often two ranges colder, even in lightly modified cars.
In the interest of not spending entire paychecks on spark plugs, I'm
gonna
play around with some coppers. I've heard they're pretty
cheap. Copper
also conducts much better than platinum or iridium, so it
should help if I'm
having spark blowout. I know they only last for 10k
miles, but for a buck a
pop, I could just put in new plugs every time I
change my oil. I removed
EGR, so changing the rear plugs isn't bad
anymore.
So...what copper plugs seem to work well (brand, heat
range, etc)? Can I
pick 'em up at my local Schucks?
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:58:34
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
r.e the ECS issue. Depressing ro
releasing the ECS button has done nothing
for a couple of weeks, but today I
noticed both Tour and Sport lights were
on
sumultaneously......
Suggestions?
Thx
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002
4:03 PM
To:
'cerri@intersystems.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Andre Cerri [SMTP:cerri@intersystems.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 2:49 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
>
> Three questions for
my 92 SL:
>
> 1) ECS. Is this dynamic I.e. can it be adjusted on the
move?
[Willis, Charles E.] Yes.
> I've tried both
>
positions of the button, and either see nothing appear in the dash
>
display,
> or watch it flick back and forward between the two
modes.
[Willis, Charles E.] Don't understand - if you see nothing then
you
probably have burned out bulbs for Tour and Sport. If it switches
between
which bulb is lit, it is working. Does an SL actually have
ECS?
> 2) TPS. Have an intermittent problem whereby the autobox won't
change up
> unless I release the throttle for a fraction. Also, check
engine light
> comes
> on when this is happening as I come to a
stop.
[Willis, Charles E.] Ah, hah! Check the CODE that is stored
for
the Check Engine Light. Based on what the dealer is saying, it is
the code
for TPS. Some codes are erased when the condition that
generated them is
corrected. Check the service manual. You could
swap the TPS yourself and
save some $.
> Took the car to a dealer
for
> a missed recall and they suggested the TPS needed replacing and
quoted
> $140
> or so, but it wasn't 100% as of course it didn't
happen that day.
> Comments?
>
> 3) Datalogging. Is there a
good write up anywhere on how to do this i.e.
> what software, cables,
diagnoses etc? I have the laptop....;o)
>
> Thx
>
>
Andre
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:58:32
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: [mi3si] Recall?
CarFax will also list missing recalls. I
know this 'cause when I bought mine
it listed a brake hose that had yet to be
done.
Andre
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger J. Roskam
Sent: Monday,
June 24, 2002 8:26 PM
To:
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Re: [mi3si] Recall?
Message>>> Would I expect to
receive notification even though I am not the
original owner? How would
Dodge/Mitsu know about me owning a Stealth 3rd
hand? Through my car
registration? <<<
DaimlerChrysler has a database searchable
by VIN. E-mail me your VIN and I
can look it up to see if you are
listed as the owner. You probably are --
they keep track of these
things for this reason (recalls).
Anybody with a Stealth (must be a
Dodge, no Mitsu branded cars) - I can tell
you when your car was built, what
option codes it had, any recalls, etc.
Send me your VIN.
=)
Roger Roskam
91 Indy Stealth RT/TT
work e-mail:
rjr15@dcx.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:03:47
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Okay. I feel a need
to intervene now, or else someone would read this and
believe it
too.
Flash, there is nothing wrong with your clutch.
It is okay
for the car to creep if it is in gear. You engine is spinning
slowly. Pistons
cannot keep pressure forever. If you do not believe this,
remove the plastic
timing belt cover and watch your engine turn.
It will turn forward or
backward depending if you are in 1st or in
reverse. It will turn easier in
6th.
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------------------
Thanks,
Chuck. You are only the second person to respond that if the
car is
creeping (i.e. the engine is turning) then the clutch is
slipping. That
is basically what I was looking for from the beginning
and not people telling
me to review my Driver's Ed book about turning
the wheels to the curb
(although I don't mind the reinforcement).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:07:02
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
You may have a bad electrical
contact on one of the plugs on your struts.
The front ones are easy to get
to. Just removed 3 nuts on the top of the
struts. The rear ones
are a little harder to get to. A few panels have to
come off
first.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:01:42
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Different Rear valve cover
Tried sending
this directly but got some weird error. Hope you come across this on the
list.
I noticed your post about the rear valve cover, and was wondering if
you got any cores in for my 1997 VR4 yet ? Either the intake,
or front
rocker cover ?
You wouldn't happen to have radiator brackets would you
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:32:28
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Different Rear valve cover
Hoping someone who's out there
can give me a quick answer. As you probably
know I polish and powder
coat valve covers, but I don't ususally do the rear
valve cover.
However I have 2 on my table right now - and I just noticed
that
they're different. One has a flared out semi-circular area where
the
timing belt runs (driver's side bottom corner) and the timing belt
cover
attaches, the other is boxed off square just like the front valve
cover. I
know my '92 VR-4 has the boxed off style. What is this
flared out verison -
is it a model year change? Is it turbo vs.
non-turbo?? Is it
interchangable? (It doesn't look like it is).
Any
help or insight here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
- - - Dave
Best
'92 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:19:47
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+
Wait, I just saw the title, my car is a
93 and we had the first gen till 96.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock
'94+
> Umpgf, I can't remember how he did it. He hooked up the MUT-II,
inserted
the
> module (European 3000GT 1st gen) and then started the
engine. He
controlled
> the temperature values as the front fan was
always on. After finding the
> switch not working, I asked him about
knock. He then switched around and
> showed a display showing 0. He then
went out, took a long screwdriver and
> rubber hammer and knocked to the
plate where the sensor is mounted on. The
> display started to jump and
showed a high value for about 2 seconds until
it
> dissapeared. He was
then also able to replay the data later. Sorry, I'm
not
> of more
help.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 8:33 PM
> Subject: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock
'94+
>
>
> > Back on February 18th, someone asked
this:
> >
> > > Does anyone know if the MUT-II can read
knock on
> > > any 3S '94 and up?
> >
> > Roger
replied:
> >
> > > Yes, it displays knock.
>
>
> > Well, I have a MUT-II in my hands with ROM pack
> >
MB991710 and nowhere in the MUT-II can I find an option
> > that
displays the knock sum.
> >
> > Can anyone who has supposedly
seen this work find out
> > how their mechanic got it to display the
knock value?
> > I'm also looking for the fuel trim values, which
aren't
> > displayed either. Is this stuff in some hidden menu
or
> > something like that?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:25:21
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Philip,
Well the
car creeps (lurches a few times like when you want to come to a
stop and not
put the clutch in) but after a few lurches it just wants to
go full tilt and
starts careening down the hill. It isn't like an
Automatic when you
park and take your foot off the brake and it creeps 4
inches and
stops.
I feel a video clip is in order. Maybe tomorrow I'll go and
do this.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 16:04
Okay. I feel a need to intervene now, or
else someone would read this
and believe it too.
Flash, there is
nothing wrong with your clutch.
It is okay for the car to creep if it is
in gear. You engine is spinning
slowly. Pistons cannot keep pressure forever.
If you do not believe
this, remove the plastic timing belt cover and watch
your engine turn.
It will turn forward or backward depending if you are
in 1st or in
reverse. It will turn easier in 6th.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:05:59
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
If you put it in
reverse facing downhill and it still rolls, your clutch
is
slipping.
And come on now, you are telling me you can't lock up the
rear wheels with
the parking brake?
BTW that's the name of the device:
PARKING BRAKE. It's for keeping the car
from rolling when it's parked.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 9:55 AM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
>
>
Chuck,
>
> I don't dispute it, but I certainly don't want to put
$25,000 in the
> hands of $40 of parking brake shoes/pads. I would
rather drive 400 feet
> down the hill, park, and walk up the hill.
The e-brake only prevents
> the rear wheels from turning by applying the
brake pad. The rear wheels
> can still turn (as evidenced by the
fact that a hand-brake turn is done
> and still allows the rear wheels to
turn some even when applied fully
> ... say ... at 80 mph for
example). I don't have Porterfield R-4 pads
> on the e-brake so it
isn't the end-all solution.
>
> I do know that the gear is supposed
to hold the car from moving all
> wheels not just two wheels like the
e-brake. My bet is on a system that
> prevents all four from moving
(tranny and all) and that is just not
> happening.
>
>
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:25:54
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
adjust your parking
brake. I can't understand how a hill could be too steep
for the parking
brake. you might also clean the brake dust out of the drum
onthe rear
brakes so you get better grip. also consider replacing the rear
brake
shoes.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:46:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Darren:
A
properly adjusted Ebrake will hold even on SF hills.
However, anyone
parking on a hill should do so legally..and point the
wheels appropriately to
the curb as well.
You WILL get at ticket in the City for that.
On
Tue, 25 Jun 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> If you put it in reverse
facing downhill and it still rolls, your clutch is
> slipping.
>
> And come on now, you are telling me you can't lock up the rear wheels
with
> the parking brake?
>
> BTW that's the name of the
device: PARKING BRAKE. It's for keeping the car
> from rolling when it's
parked.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.
Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:37:22
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Land of incompetence
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while
parked in gear
>
Having lived in Pittsburgh for three years, I learned
that it is the Land of Incompetence. No one seems to be able to do anything
right in that town, including Sears, furniture stores, car dealers, highway
departments, pothole repairs and so on. Boy do I have stories...I have seen
three-bedroom potholes, big enough to swallow a city bus (I am not kidding).
I've seen steelworkers cheer when they are laid off. I've seen steel mills shut
down for the 1st day of hunting season. I saw Iron City beer set off a detector
at the airport. I could go on.
Maybe the poor car picked up that tendency
toward incompetence too, so now neither its clutch nor e-brake work properly.
Solution: move away.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:10:00
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
> Well the car
creeps (lurches a few times like when you want
> to come to a stop and
not put the clutch in) but after a
> few lurches it just wants to go full
tilt and starts careening
> down the hill.
This sounds like
your clutch is fine - it sounds like there is enough force
exerted by gravity
on the wheels (think components of gravitational force
parallel and
perpendicular to the road surface) to cause the engine to
begin
turning. After a few revs, there's probably enough momentum to
make it turn
more smoothly.
> It isn't like an Automatic when you
park and take your
> foot off the brake and it creeps 4 inches and
stops.
AFAIK, most automatic transmissions actually have a "peg" that
blocks the
gears from moving relative to each other when in park. Thus
it's not the
engine's compression that holds an automatic still. Our
manual
transmissions are a completely different beast.
If you question
your clutch's holding ability, go find a hill on I-376 or
I-279 (there are
some good ones out by Monroeville if you're out that
way)... go up the
hill and get it going 55-60mph and put it in 5th... floor
it and build
boost. If the tach doesn't spike up, then you're fine.
-
--Erik
DuPont, WA, but went to college in the 'burgh
P.S. I
learned to drive a stick in my first (NA) 3000GT in Pittsburgh. I
grew
to hate those hills with a passion :-) Too little throttle, your
roll
back and stall and look like a fool. To much throttle and you
either smoke
the front tires, the clutch, or both. No one ever told me
about the e-brake
then...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:43:11
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Copper plugs - where to get?
Brian,
Go to
www.sparkplugs.com and in the NGK plug
search put in 3330 and it
should come up with a 1 range colder copper plug
for our cars gapped at
.034. At least that is how mine came. I
paid $15 shipped two day air for 6
plugs.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J [mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 2:55 PM
To: Team3S Mailing List (E-mail); Starnet
Mailing List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Copper plugs - where to
get?
All -
Last weekend at the track, I was having some problems
during runs that I
think were either pre-detonation or spark blowout. I
pulled my front plugs
last night (Denso Iridiums, stock heat range, gapped at
.038), and they look
like they've been running pretty hot. A little
archive/search reading last
night told me that many people recommend running
these plugs at least one
and often two ranges colder, even in lightly
modified cars.
In the interest of not spending entire paychecks on spark
plugs, I'm gonna
play around with some coppers. I've heard they're
pretty cheap. Copper
also conducts much better than platinum or
iridium, so it should help if I'm
having spark blowout. I know they
only last for 10k miles, but for a buck a
pop, I could just put in new plugs
every time I change my oil. I removed
EGR, so changing the rear plugs
isn't bad anymore.
So...what copper plugs seem to work well (brand, heat
range, etc)? Can I
pick 'em up at my local Schucks?
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:35:49
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How to install a original Sunrrof (or Targa Roof)
Sorry ... meant
to add that I don't think there were power sunroofs on
any Stealth.
Apologize for my original response. I have seen the
manual ones like
Peter has. I was trying to fend off emails left and
right about car
creep earlier today.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: menalteed [mailto:menalteed@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
June 25, 2002 15:50
I don't know of how many first generation
Dodge
Stealth came with the factory sun roof but mine has a sun roof
that
has to be removed my hand and then there is a
storage holder in the trunk
that still allows for
luggage under the glass roof, plus it has a couple
of
turn fittings that hold it down so no rattle. Mine
came from the
factory that way and is not a after
market sun roof.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:38:13
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Copper plugs - where to get?
I purchased NGK BCPR6ES-11 plugs
at the local Checker Auto. The local AutoZone
does not carry NGK and PepBoys
carries limited number of NGK models. Call
around to the local non-chain
shops too to see who carries NGK. Online sources
and much more info,
including a cross reference guide, are on my web page
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
"Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet
Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 1:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Copper plugs - where to
get?
<snip>
So...what copper plugs seem to work well (brand,
heat range, etc)? Can I
pick 'em up at my local Schucks?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:49:38
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Okay. Clutch is
not slipping then. This was replaced at 45k when the
remfg tranny went
in so there is only 50k on this clutch and only two
DEs I believe (which are
not all that hard on the clutch anyway when I
drive). And I know it
won't slip like you say. Not that I've done that
but I have started up
on enough hills that the clutch grabs well. I've
had worn clutches
before (including one on this car) so I think I can
rule that out.
Yes
it is nice learning to drive a manual around Pittsburgh. I learned
too
and during Driver's Ed we were not official until our father put us
through
"Dad's Driver Skill Test." This included stopping the car on a
nice
incline, getting out, switching seats with us, and making us start
up without
drifting back much. Yes we had to do it the hard way before
learning
how to use the e-brake to cheat. Then we had a 1985 Subaru
Wagon
(non-AWD). It had the most impressive idea of a "hill holder"
where you
came to a stop, I think you put it in neutral and released the
clutch, and
then applied the brake pedal a bit farther than where you
had it
initially. Then you released your foot off the brake pedal.
That was
the scariest thing to do in my life at the time. A nice car
just two
feet behind me and my dad telling me to take my foot off the
brake pedal and
the e-brake had not been applied yet. To my surprise,
the car
held.
And I hear that Subaru is again putting this on their new
cars. So I
don't know how it worked then but that would be a real nice
addition to
any manual car.
Yes we have our nice hills. One is a
hill that used to be sort of an
incline (where a trolley would be towed up it
attach to a cable ...
that's as good a description as I can give to folks not
familiar with an
incline) so imagine driving on one street like that.
Then there is
Rialto Street and Sycamore Street. Yes we have some nice
hills.
I for one think the 'Burg hills are small as I grew up in West
Virginia.
What I grew up thinking as hills were "mountains" to Pittsburgh
folk. I
think the WV folk refer to themselves as "Little Switzerland"
which is
funny because nobody else refers to them as that ... and the
Swiss
certainly do not call themselves "Big West Virginia."
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 17:10
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in
gear
> Well the car creeps (lurches a few times like when you
want
> to come to a stop and not put the clutch in) but after a
>
few lurches it just wants to go full tilt and starts careening
> down the
hill.
This sounds like your clutch is fine - it sounds like there
is enough
force exerted by gravity on the wheels (think components
of
gravitational force parallel and perpendicular to the road surface)
to
cause the engine to begin turning. After a few revs, there's
probably
enough momentum to make it turn more smoothly.
> It isn't
like an Automatic when you park and take your
> foot off the brake and it
creeps 4 inches and stops.
AFAIK, most automatic transmissions actually
have a "peg" that blocks
the gears from moving relative to each other when in
park. Thus it's
not the engine's compression that holds an automatic
still. Our manual
transmissions are a completely different
beast.
If you question your clutch's holding ability, go find a hill on
I-376
or I-279 (there are some good ones out by Monroeville if you're out
that
way)... go up the hill and get it going 55-60mph and put it in
5th...
floor it and build boost. If the tach doesn't spike up, then
you're
fine.
- --Erik
DuPont, WA, but went to college in the
'burgh
P.S. I learned to drive a stick in my first (NA) 3000GT in
Pittsburgh.
I grew to hate those hills with a passion :-) Too little
throttle, your
roll back and stall and look like a fool. To much
throttle and you
either smoke the front tires, the clutch, or both. No
one ever told me
about the e-brake then...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:04:09
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
> Well the car
creeps (lurches a few times like when you want to come to a
> stop and not
put the clutch in) but after a few lurches it just wants to
> go full tilt
and starts careening down the hill. It isn't like an
> Automatic
when you park and take your foot off the brake and it creeps 4
> inches
and stops.
This sounds very scary. Your car should not ever let go
completely like
that. Could you sit in the car next time with the key
still in? With the
key in the ON position and in gear, if your car
starts to roll down the hill
it should start. If the clutch just
completely gives out like that, then at
least you will be in the car so you
can scream before it hits a tree. Just
kidding. So you can stop
it with the brakes, double clutch it, hit the
E-brake, etc.
A clutch
that is slipping will usually do other things like not go into
gear, grind
going into gears, not come out of a gear, the engine will rev up
a little
while in a gear and not change the speed, grab hard when you let
out instead
of slowly and smoothly, the clutch peddal may vibrate, etc.
Does your clutch
do anything else besides not hold your car on a hill?
Doug
92 Stealth
RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:12:39
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
ooooooh...I got it
flash! go to a hotrdding site like summit or jegs
and look into line
locks.....very similar to your subaru
thing.....sand rails use them
too.....presson the brakes..the real
brakes....then throw the switch.
WALLA!!!!!! no parking brake needed
at all cuz all four are locked up good
and tight...not even a toe
truck could roll you out of the spot...well they
do have big winches
though :)
it slices into the brake line, bery
common thing for those speed bump
smoke shows we all did in high school....I
feel you pain about the
Dad test...I learned to drive a stick in a old Ford
econoline 200
with three on the tree....passed the hill test with a small
burn out
and a grin from the old man but every time I shifted I changed
lanes
:)
three on the tree sucks!
bobk.
- ---- Original
Message ----
From:
dschilberg@pobox.comTo:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002
17:49:38 -0400
>Okay. Clutch is not slipping then. This
was replaced at 45k when
>the
>remfg tranny went in so there is
only 50k on this clutch and only two
>DEs I believe (which are not all
that hard on the clutch anyway when
>I
>drive). And I know it
won't slip like you say. Not that I've done
>that
>but I have
started up on enough hills that the clutch grabs well.
>I've
>had worn clutches before (including one on this car) so I
think I can
>rule that out.
>
>Yes it is nice learning to
drive a manual around Pittsburgh. I
>learned
>too and during
Driver's Ed we were not official until our father put
>us
>through
"Dad's Driver Skill Test." This included stopping the car
>on
a
>nice incline, getting out, switching seats with us, and making us
>start
>up without drifting back much. Yes we had to do it
the hard way
>before
>learning how to use the e-brake to
cheat. Then we had a 1985 Subaru
>Wagon (non-AWD). It had the
most impressive idea of a "hill holder"
>where you came to a stop, I think
you put it in neutral and released
>the
>clutch, and then applied
the brake pedal a bit farther than where you
>had it initially. Then
you released your foot off the brake pedal.
>That was the scariest thing
to do in my life at the time. A nice car
>just two feet behind me
and my dad telling me to take my foot off the
>brake pedal and the e-brake
had not been applied yet. To my
>surprise,
>the car
held.
>
>And I hear that Subaru is again putting this on their new
cars. So I
>don't know how it worked then but that would be a real
nice addition
>to
>any manual car.
>
>Yes we have our
nice hills. One is a hill that used to be sort of an
>incline (where
a trolley would be towed up it attach to a cable ...
>that's as good a
description as I can give to folks not familiar
>with an
>incline)
so imagine driving on one street like that. Then there is
>Rialto
Street and Sycamore Street. Yes we have some nice hills.
>
>I
for one think the 'Burg hills are small as I grew up in West
>Virginia.
>What I grew up thinking as hills were "mountains" to
Pittsburgh
>folk. I
>think the WV folk refer to themselves as
"Little Switzerland" which
>is
>funny because nobody else refers to
them as that ... and the Swiss
>certainly do not call themselves "Big West
Virginia."
>
>--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:23:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
> at all cuz all
four are locked up good and tight...not even a toe
> truck could roll you
out of the spot...well they do have big winches
> though :)
-
---
Bet me.
Ive drug cars sidways with the Jeep fairly easilly.
Wheels dont ahve to
turn..to move a car.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:24:39
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Chuck,
I replaced
the cap last year after discovering fluid draining from the cap.
It didn't
help. My guess is that the big reds are getting the Motul hot
enough to
expand/bubble up in the reservoir through the vent hole. I can't
be
sure as I can't find anyone to ride in the engine bay during hard
track
time. The problem is mostly resolved by only running the
reservoir half
full.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Dave and Becky Trent'" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>;
"Team3s"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light
on acceleration
> are you sure that brake fluid is coming out and
not power steering fluid?
>
> if brake fluid is coming out of your
reservior, you need to replace the
> cap/rubber diaphragm. That is
NOT normal.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Dave and Becky Trent
[SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 4:48
PM
> > To: Team3s
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator
light on acceleration
> >
> > I can attest to the fact that if
your fluid reservoir is not all the way
> > up
> > to the high
level mark, hard acceleration will initiate the warning
light.
> >
Unfortuntely, as an avid open tracker, running fluid much above
half
full
> > results in brake fluid leaking out of the cap during
hard use. I've
> > learned
> > to ignore the warning
light as opposed to cleaning up brake fluid from
> > around the
reservoir.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 15:28:16
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Keeping in mind that engine
compression is what keeps the car from rolling
and the fact that we only have
8:1 for a turbo car it's no wonder that it starts
to roll.
Get a 20:1
desiel with zero leakdown and you'll be in fine
shape.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Philip,
>
> Well the car creeps (lurches a few times like when you
want to come to a
> stop and not put the clutch in) but after a few
lurches it just wants to
> go full tilt and starts careening down the
hill. It isn't like an
> Automatic when you park and take your foot
off the brake and it creeps 4
> inches and stops.
>
> I feel
a video clip is in order. Maybe tomorrow I'll go and do this.
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:39:45
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+
> Umpgf, I can't remember how he did it.
He hooked up
> the MUT-II, inserted the module (European 3000GT
>
1st gen)
Hmmm. Looks like the answer didn't really apply to the
2nd gen cars then. I can't find any way to get knock
out of it,
although you can log lots of other sensor
and solenoid data to a PC card and
play it back.
Glad I didn't pay $2000 for one and then find out it
actually doesn't do knock sum.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:40:28
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How to install a original Sunrrof (or Targa Roof)
> From:
menalteed [mailto:menalteed@yahoo.com]
> I don't know of how many first
generation Dodge Stealth came with the
factory sun roof but mine has a sun
roof that has to be removed my hand and
then there is a storage holder in the
trunk that still allows for luggage
under the glass roof, plus it has a
couple of turn fittings that hold it
down so no rattle. Mine came from the
factory that way and is not a after
market sun roof.
-
--------------------------->
FYI... Although many dealers called
them "factory" sunroofs, the fact is
that NO sunroof (neither power nor
manual) came from the factory that way.
They are ALL aftermarket sunroofs,
according to my sources... A couple of
Dodge dealers called it a
"factory sunroof" when I was shopping for my car
in '94, but in fact they
were all contracted out to local sunroof shops,
using a "general" spec
suggested by Chrysler. I'm guessing that there are
probably several
dozen different types of sunroofs on our cars, depending on
the local talent
in the city where you bought your car.
I've been told by three different
dealers that they did it that way for a
number of reasons - not the least of
which was that so many people cancel
their car order even after making the
down payment. Most people who buy a
performance car for actual
"performance" don't want a sunroof or moonroof,
since they are so noisy at
high speeds. So if the car order was cancelled,
the dealer wanted the
option of selling the car with- or without- the
sunroof!
My main
dealer recommended (at that time) that if I wanted one, I should
oversee the
installation myself (and save $250) by going to the shop that
*they* use for
all Stealths. He told me there is no such thing as a sunroof
that came
from the factory. I checked this out with two other dealer
friends
(one, a client and the other, one of our "Good Guys" dealers) and
they
verified that indeed, they all left Nagoya as coupes..., sans sunroof.
I did
call the sunroof installer at that time, and he, too, said that he did
almost
all of the sunroofs in that area of the State for the dealers.
The
installer told me that this was common practice with most car companies
(at
that time, anyway) but I only researched it specifically for the
Stealth.
A sunroof or moonroof is in a category known as
"dealer-installed
accessories", (along with cell phones, mobile phones,
alarms, etc). Look in
the booklet for your car - any year - you won't
find it listed and you won't
find a picture of a Stealth *except* as a
solid-roof coupe. You may have
*paid* for it as a "factory" item, but
then again, you wouldn't have been
willing to spring for all that money if
you actually KNEW it was done after
it arrived here by "Manny's Moonroof
Mall" down the block, now would you?
:-) As such, it is still
considered an aftermarket item.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:47:51
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
> If you put it in
reverse facing downhill and it
> still rolls, your clutch is
slipping.
The gear you are in has nothing to do with whether it
the
car can roll downhill in a manual transmission
car. It is just as easy
for the weight to spin the
motor backwards as it is forwards. If the
clutch was
slipping under that small load, it would be slipping
like
crazy when trying to accelerate where a lot more
torque is
involved.
Its the parking brakes, if anything. I find it hard to
believe that this is really a discussion.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:56:29
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
How to install a original Sunrrof (or Targa Roof)
All this
sunroof/moonroof talk has made me think: Has anyone ever done
a Targa
conversion; i.e. a fully removable roof section, while
maintaining a hatch
section, like the vetts? I was looking at a profile
of my car, and I
think it would look absolutely bitching with the roof
off!!!
Anyone
know of a place that might do something like this? With bonus
time
coming soon, it might be one of those things that are just too cool
to have,
especially with the california summer right around the
corner.
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:54:15
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Eric G. explained
everything right. Your car just starts running downhill
in gear. You can jump
start your car like that if you battery is dead.
Just sit in it and turn the
ignition on when you reach 3-5 mph. It may
start in a reverse direction if
you are spinning your engine backwards.
Some cars do.
Automatic
transmissions have a special parking gear with square teeth and
a "peg" or a
"dog" that gets in between those teeth and stops that gear.
If that dog gives
way for some reason, your car will run downhill as if it
was in neutral.
Major lawsuits happen to car companies it that happens.
Fix your parking
brake. If should be able to hold you car on a 30% (or
maybe 45%) grade. It is
a legislated requirement. No car company can sell
a new car if the parking
brake is not capable to hold it from rolling
downhill in
Pittsburgh.
The parking brake uses brake shoes inside the rear brake disk
hat (kinda
little drum brake). There is another free play adjustment there.
It is a
special double-sided left thread and right thread nut that you could
turn
and spread the pads more. You do not have to remove the rear disks to
do
that, but I would remove it just to make sure that the shoes are
clean.
Once you take you rear wheel off, you will see a rubber plug between
the
wheel studs. Pull it out and turn the disk until you can see that nut
with
notches on it. You can turn that nut by hitting those notches with a
small
chisel or a screwdriver. I am not sure it adjusting it would increase
the
brake force though. My parking brake is not very good, just like
yours
probably. But I live in a relatively flat Michigan. Read the manual,
see
how they want it to be adjusted.
Philip
-
----------------------------------------------
Philip,
Well the
car creeps (lurches a few times like when you want to come to a
stop and not
put the clutch in) but after a few lurches it just wants to
go full tilt and
starts careening down the hill. It isn't like an
Automatic when you
park and take your foot off the brake and it creeps 4
inches and
stops.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:01:49
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car creeping forward while parked in gear
the gear does matter.
Reverse is the highest mechanical advantate gear
from the engine point of
view (most engine revolutions/wheel
revolutions). Therefore, it
requires the most torque from the wheels to
actually get the engine to turn
against the resistance of the
compression, friction, etc. Kinda like
the oposite of why you
accelerate fastest in 1st- mechanical advantage, but
in reverse.
why not just use both a low gear (1st or reverse) and the
parking brake?
Car should not move anywhere, regardless. If
you're really paranoid,
just put some chocks in front or behind the wheels,
whenever you park on
a hill. 4x4s should be more than
adequate.
mjannusch@attbi.com
wrote:
>>If you put it in reverse facing downhill and
it
>>still rolls, your clutch is slipping.
>>
>
>
The gear you are in has nothing to do with whether it
> the car can roll
downhill in a manual transmission
> car. It is just as easy for the
weight to spin the
> motor backwards as it is forwards. If the
clutch was
> slipping under that small load, it would be slipping
> like crazy when trying to accelerate where a lot more
> torque
is involved.
>
> Its the parking brakes, if anything. I find
it hard to
> believe that this is really a discussion.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:05:01
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Damon,
I don't
think people were reading the posts I was responding with. If
you did
then you would have seen that, at first, there was no physical
possibility to
get out and chock the wheels before the car would start
rolling.
However, since then I have had the e-brake shoes inspected and
they may have
blown out any debris that was preventing the shoes from
contacting
firmly.
Now, the parking brake holds on one kind of steep hill near my
place but
of course I don't want to trust this now knowing that the e-brake
may
have debris in it or the engine won't hold it at all so I'm wary of
even
parking on gently slopes so I'll have to build my confidence back
up.
Maybe park the car on a remote hillside for a week with nothing but
the
parking brake. Then I'll know for sure it can hold.
Similar
story, in my parent's 1986 Acura Legend L one time I had been
driving to
college in Erie and needed to get a drink and some snacks. I
backed
into a spot (which made the car face downhill) and set the
parking
brake. When I came out the car had moved about 3 feet forward.
The warm
tires were sitting on a sheet of black ice that melted and
caused the car to
slide. Scary. Wheels never rotated but the whole car
moved.
I learned my lesson.
I think this thread has been discussed enough and
solutions are adequate
now. Thanks.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002
19:02
the gear does matter. Reverse is the highest mechanical
advantate gear
from the engine point of view (most engine revolutions/wheel
revolutions). Therefore, it requires the most torque from the wheels
to
actually get the engine to turn against the resistance of the
compression, friction, etc. Kinda like the oposite of why you
accelerate fastest in 1st- mechanical advantage, but in reverse.
why
not just use both a low gear (1st or reverse) and the parking
brake?
Car should not move anywhere, regardless. If you're
really paranoid,
just put some chocks in front or behind the wheels,
whenever you park on
a hill. 4x4s should be more than
adequate.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:13:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
> Now, the
parking brake holds on one kind of steep hill near my place but
> of
course I don't want to trust this now knowing that the e-brake may
> have
debris in it or the engine won't hold it at all so I'm wary of even
>
parking on gently slopes so I'll have to build my confidence back up.
>
Maybe park the car on a remote hillside for a week with nothing but the
>
parking brake. Then I'll know for sure it can hold.
- ---
Then just
start parking wisely against the curb. Whats the big
deal?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:05:04
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car creeping forward while parked in gear
Using the tranny
and engine to park against is hard on the tranny as it
snugs all the running
gear to one side and sqeezes the oil out from between
the bearings, dogs and
gear surfaces since it's not rotating to replenish
it. Just my 2
cents.
Pete Rivenburg, 93 3000GTSL no mods, yet! ;-)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:09:22
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Knock vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+)
Dear
dataloggers, there must be some correlation between the degree of
knock and
the ignition retardation. I saw some of you logs and I can see
it on some but
not the others.
QUESTION: (to professional and weekend tuners)
Is if
possible to use ignition timing only on our cars and tune
engines
efficiently, without looking at knock?
Can MUT-II log ignition
timing?
Philip
- ----------------------------
Hmmm.
Looks like the answer didn't really apply to the
2nd gen cars then. I
can't find any way to get knock
out of it, although you can log lots of other
sensor
and solenoid data to a PC card and play it back.
Glad I didn't
pay $2000 for one and then find out it
actually doesn't do knock
sum.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 23:17:00
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re: Knock
vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+)
> Dear
dataloggers, there must be some correlation
> between the degree of knock
and the ignition
> retardation. I saw some of you logs and I can
see
> it on some but not the others.
If I get knock I do see that
the ECU pulls timing
fairly quickly. I have no idea how to correlate
the "knock sum" to timing retard though since my car
won't produce knock
sum numbers.
> QUESTION: (to professional and weekend tuners)
>
Is if possible to use ignition timing only on our
> cars and tune engines
efficiently, without looking
> at knock?
I think you probably want
to look at a combination of
timing advance, O2 sensor readings, and EGTs to
get an
overall idea of engine health. Most cars do not have
access
to knock data like the 1st gen cars do, and this
is how they tune their
cars.
> Can MUT-II log ignition timing?
Yes, it can. The
PMS can as well.
I've also seen that some people are hooking up their
knock sensor to one of the extra inputs on the S-AFC
and have kinda
sorta decided that voltages above .08v
represent knocking.
I'm not
sure if I concur with that, as I doubt the
sampling rate of the S-AFC is
high enough to catch most
incidents of knock. The waveform of knock
from the
sensor is very short in duration. ....but it seems
people
are getting more and more serious about figuring
this out - which is
good.
If that idea proves out, then I will be incorporating a
simulated "knock sum" on my digital gauge project.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:27:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Knock vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock
'94+)
IMHO..without fuel and ignition control..youre not really tuning at
all.
S-ITC, rest in peace. Too bad they didnt upgrade that product to a
more
versatile & graphical product.
On Tue, 25 Jun 2002
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>
> Dear dataloggers, there must be some correlation
> > between the
degree of knock and the ignition
> > retardation. I saw some of you
logs and I can see
> > it on some but not the others.
>
>
If I get knock I do see that the ECU pulls timing
> fairly quickly.
I have no idea how to correlate
> the "knock sum" to timing retard though
since my car
> won't produce knock sum numbers.
>
> >
QUESTION: (to professional and weekend tuners)
> > Is if possible to
use ignition timing only on our
> > cars and tune engines efficiently,
without looking
> > at knock?
>
> I think you probably
want to look at a combination of
> timing advance, O2 sensor readings,
and EGTs to get an
> overall idea of engine health. Most cars do
not have
> access to knock data like the 1st gen cars do, and this
> is how they tune their cars.
>
> > Can MUT-II log
ignition timing?
>
> Yes, it can. The PMS can as
well.
>
> I've also seen that some people are hooking up their
> knock sensor to one of the extra inputs on the S-AFC
> and have
kinda sorta decided that voltages above .08v
> represent
knocking.
>
> I'm not sure if I concur with that, as I doubt the
> sampling rate of the S-AFC is high enough to catch most
>
incidents of knock. The waveform of knock from the
> sensor is very
short in duration. ....but it seems
> people are getting more and
more serious about figuring
> this out - which is good.
>
>
If that idea proves out, then I will be incorporating a
> simulated
"knock sum" on my digital gauge project.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 23:42:59
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re: Knock
vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+)
>
IMHO..without fuel and ignition control..youre not
> really tuning at
all.
Luckily for me, the PMS does both. ;-)
> S-ITC, rest
in peace. Too bad they didnt upgrade
> that product to a more versatile
& graphical product.
Yeah, I'm surprised that they never did.
It really
would've made a good companion with the new S-AFC.
Even
better yet, they could've combined the two
products.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:51:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Knock vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock
'94+)
*nods*
Greddy E-manage. Thats what im waiting
for.
On Tue, 25 Jun 2002
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>
> IMHO..without fuel and ignition control..youre not
> > really
tuning at all.
>
> Luckily for me, the PMS does both.
;-)
>
> > S-ITC, rest in peace. Too bad they didnt
upgrade
> > that product to a more versatile & graphical
product.
>
> Yeah, I'm surprised that they never did. It
really
> would've made a good companion with the new S-AFC.
> Even better yet, they could've combined the two
>
products.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
-
---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 23:50:11
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re: Knock
vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+)
>
*nods*
> Greddy E-manage. Thats what im waiting for.
I
agree, I think the E-Manage has potential... And at
this rate it
should be out before the AEM EMS is ready
for our cars (although supposedly
it is being "tested"
in limited release). E-Manage is also pretty darn
inexpensive too. I like how easy the PMS is to tune
with the
handheld unit though... Very slick to not
have to lug a laptop around
unless you really need it.
I'm going back to the dragstrip this Saturday
to make
some high-boost passes and refine the PMS tuning for
550cc
injectors. Hopefully all will go well - I'm
shooting for high 11's so
I can get kicked off the
track. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:00:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Knock vs. Ign. Timing (was Re: Team3S: MUT-II and Knock '94+)
I agree
on the handheld part..but..you really dont need to change things
once you
have your own happy setup. You should allow for change..and
leave
enough safety overhead to deal with it.
the only time Id have to reprog,
is at the track..where I might DETUNE a
little for safety.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:08:55
-0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Intercooler Piping
Even worse is my situation in which I bought the IHI
turbo kit with
front mount and IC piping. Absolutely nothing that was
manufactured by
DN was done correctly from the header gasket, pipe doesn't
mate
correctly and really cheapo stuff to hold the connections together.
Also
part of the piping is partially cutting off radiator hose to
radiator.
Did I mention that the whole front turbo has to be altered to fit.
Oh,
and the braket to mount to the intake manifold is off by about a
couple
of inches so can't be used. The headers kit is off by 3 inches so that
I
had to have an extender to the cat added so that the kit mated with
the
downpipe. The front mount brackets are so poorly manufactured that
only
2 can be used. Siggh, after all of this I can only boost to about 7
psi
right now until the piping is on better. Don't even ask how much
this
cost.
Rich
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bradford J. Gay
Sent:
Tuesday, June 25, 2002 12:19 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Intercooler
Piping
After doing one pass or just driving hard, my DN Performance
intercooler
pipes are a bit hotter than I think IC pipes should be. Am
I the only
one experiencing this, or are hot IC pipes a common thing? I
ask this
because my friend's dad had a S4 and the IC pipes never got near
the
temps mine do. Any ideas? Thanks.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
13.505 @ 103.63
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:24:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intercooler Piping
Wow! Sorry to hear about all those
hassles!
How hard would it be to get a tubing bender, a brazing torch,
some flux
and rods, and set to work making your own intercoolers from a
couple
discarded heater cores? Just a thought!!
On Tue, 25 Jun
2002, Richard L. Barron wrote:
> Even worse is my situation in which I
bought the IHI turbo kit with
> front mount and IC piping. Absolutely
nothing that was manufactured by
> DN was done correctly from the header
gasket, pipe doesn't mate
> correctly and really cheapo stuff to hold the
connections together. Also
> part of the piping is partially cutting off
radiator hose to radiator.
> Did I mention that the whole front turbo has
to be altered to fit. Oh,
> and the braket to mount to the intake manifold
is off by about a couple
> of inches so can't be used. The headers kit is
off by 3 inches so that I
> had to have an extender to the cat added so
that the kit mated with the
> downpipe. The front mount brackets are so
poorly manufactured that only
> 2 can be used. Siggh, after all of this I
can only boost to about 7 psi
> right now until the piping is on better.
Don't even ask how much this
> cost.
>
> Rich
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Bradford J. Gay
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 12:19 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject:
Team3S: Intercooler Piping
>
> After doing one pass or just driving
hard, my DN Performance intercooler
> pipes are a bit hotter than I think
IC pipes should be. Am I the only
> one experiencing this, or are
hot IC pipes a common thing? I ask this
> because my friend's dad
had a S4 and the IC pipes never got near the
> temps mine do. Any
ideas? Thanks.
>
> -Brad
> 97 VR-4
>
13.505 @ 103.63
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#880
***************************************