Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
879
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Jun 2002 05:51:23 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Belt squeak
Hi Darren: It sounds like you have isolated the
problem to one belt. I
agree you don't sound like you have too many miles on
the belts you have,
but belt noise problems are almost always solvable by
changing the belt -
even when the damn things are new. I don't know why this
is true but it is.
I always figure that you can't go too wrong with a new
part anyway, and then
I feel better about being 200 miles into the desert on
a 110 degree day with
no gas station in sight. Keep us posted.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, June
23, 2002 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Belt squeak
| Andy, I will
take a look at the belt but wouldn't 6 months or 10k miles
| be basically a
brand new belt? Since they are replaced at 60k then I
| would expect it
to last a lot longer. 96k miles on the car and belts
| were changed at
60k.
|
| Today I confirmed it was the A/C belt and not the normal
belts. I
| started the car and turned off the air. Then I turned
on the air but
| did not turn on the A/C. No squeaks at all. Then
I turned on the A/C
| and I could hear the belt engaging as that set of
wheels got up to speed
| and the fan kicked on. Not real loud and not a
full "clunk" but an
| engaging sound. Then after about half a second to
a second the squeak
| started. I turned off the A/C and it
stopped. I turned it on and it
| engaged and then started
squeaking.
|
| So maybe it is time to get a free check-up at an A/C place
or the dealer
| and let them say it is fine and get their guarantee then when
it breaks
| in 3 months let them replace it as they felt it was good for
another 5
| years. <grin>
|
| I'm putting about 30k miles a
year on it now so I don't doubt that it is
| wearing out sooner since I use
A/C in the hot days obviously but it may
| also have been some Engine
Cleaning solution from the manual car wash
| areas or Foamy Engine Brite that
got down on the hub of the A/C wheels
| and cleaned out some grease too and
replaced it with water and some
| rust. It could be anything but I
think we've narrowed it down so I'll
| take a look at it at some point.
It might just be a slipping belt (too
| tight or too loose) and that, of
course, is an easy fix.
|
| --Flash!
| 1995 VR-4 with a squeak followed
by an owl hoot =)
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: Andrew D. Woll
[mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
| Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 15:58
|
|
Darren: The last time I heard a sound like you are describing my belt
|
broke about a week later leaving me the pleasure of calling AAA for a
| tow.
It was at a really bad time too. Sooo - how new is your belt? - if
| more
than 6 months or 10k miles then why not just replace it?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:17:12
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Belt squeak
My guess is the idler pulley needs to be
replaced. Just had this done to my
'93 VR4.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:36:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Belt squeak
There is such a thing as "belt dressing", sticky
stuff that is intended to
help a belt that has become glazed. It is not
a lubricant like WD40 - quite
the reverse. If you are trying to
lubricate the pulleys or A/C clutch, I
can understand trying the WD40
stuff.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:05:25
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
oil
I use Mobile One 10w-30, change every 3000mi. and autocross about
2
weekends per month.
norman ross wrote:
>
> Iam going on
along trip what is the best oil to put in
> and is it good for raceing
too.
> Thanks Norman
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:19:15
-0500
From: <
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Injectors
What is the difference between cleaning injectors
off the car and on the
car? How do you clean injectors on the
car?
TIA
Jim W
92 3000GT SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 10:59:20
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
I'll try all of these. The cheapest is the
dealer's free inspection of
the idler pulley, belt inspection, and correct
tension setting. If it
is one of those things then they can fix it but
throw on the dealer's
labor rate. Second cheapest is belt dressing or
setting the tension
myself. Ultimate solution is replacing the belt
and/or the idler
pulley.
It makes sense that it might be the wheels
since they are 96k miles old
but I'll see what the diagnosis is.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002
09:37
There is such a thing as "belt dressing", sticky stuff that is
intended
to help a belt that has become glazed. It is not a lubricant
like WD40
- - quite the reverse. If you are trying to lubricate the
pulleys or A/C
clutch, I can understand trying the WD40
stuff.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:32:28
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Different Rear valve cover
Hoping someone who's out there
can give me a quick answer. As you probably
know I polish and powder
coat valve covers, but I don't ususally do the rear
valve cover.
However I have 2 on my table right now - and I just noticed
that
they're different. One has a flared out semi-circular area where
the
timing belt runs (driver's side bottom corner) and the timing belt
cover
attaches, the other is boxed off square just like the front valve
cover. I
know my '92 VR-4 has the boxed off style. What is this
flared out verison -
is it a model year change? Is it turbo vs.
non-turbo?? Is it
interchangable? (It doesn't look like it is).
Any
help or insight here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
- - Dave
Best
'92 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 16:11:15
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: STIM and Powertrain Diagnostics on eBay
Folks,
There is a
STIM up for auction on ebay. The Powertrain Diagnostic manual is
very
worthwhile also. I have both manuals shown so will not be bidding.
The
following needs to be all on one line:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838540729STIM:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-stim.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 10:00:10
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: on the subject of spark plugs
Looks like you've been running
very rich. Or maybe your spark plugs haven't
been getting up to their
operating temp...are these plugs the stock heat
range?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: anthonymelillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 3:22
PM
> To: Team 3S List Submissions
> Subject: Team3S: on the subject
of spark plugs
>
>
> Since there has been some discussion on
what good spark plugs
> look like, I was wondering if someone could tell
me if these look
> normal or not ?
>
> They are new Denso
Iridium Plugs that I put in my 1997 VR-4.
> They have a little over
300 miles on them.
>
>
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/images/web-spark-plug.jpg>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
>
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:02:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
As luck would have it I received a letter today from
my Mitsu dealer
(I'm fortunate to have one of the nice ones) who said they
may think it
is time for me to come in for my 90k mile check-up. How
did they know
the belts were squeaking. Plus, with the 10% off coupon
it might be
worth the quick check-up.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:15:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
- --- "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> My guess is the idler pulley needs to be replaced.
> Just
had this done to my
> '93 VR4.
>
Remeber the cost? Mine
isn't making noise, but
doesn't look too good.
Thanks,
Glenn
'93
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:18:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Intermitten Warning Light
no owners manual in the
glovebox?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dakken
[SMTP:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 10:56
AM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Intermitten Warning Light
>
> I have an
intermitten warning light coming on. It is the one on the
>
bottom
> right of the instrument panel that looks to me like an ancient
greek
> building. I have searched several 3S web sites and looked in
my service
> manual. I can't find anything that says what any of the
warning lights
> mean. Would someone give me a link that shows all
the warning lights and
> what they mean?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 16:48:01
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
I can attest to the fact
that if your fluid reservoir is not all the way up
to the high level mark,
hard acceleration will initiate the warning light.
Unfortuntely, as an avid
open tracker, running fluid much above half full
results in brake fluid
leaking out of the cap during hard use. I've learned
to ignore the
warning light as opposed to cleaning up brake fluid from
around the
reservoir.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, June 22, 2002 10:42 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light
on acceleration
> Philip,
>
> If it is then it does not
make sense. As an avid road racer I make it a
> point to always keep
the brake fluid filled and fresh. It is not below
> the Min mark so
that is not the problem. Unless, on hard launches the
> fluid gets
slung to the back but since I know the little electrical
> sensors are
down in the reservoir quite far I do not think this is the
>
problem.
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:30:40
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel Injectors
Only way I know is to put injector cleaner
into the gas tank and run the
car. Doing this before a long drive on
the highway seems to work pretty
good.
I don't think this is nearly as
good as removing the injectors and sending
them off for an ultrasonic
cleaning, but lots cheaper.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com
[SMTP:jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 9:19
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Injectors
>
> What is the difference between
cleaning injectors off the car and on the
> car? How do you clean
injectors on the car?
>
> TIA
>
> Jim W
> 92
3000GT SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:26:12
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
IndyStealth@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: [mi3si] Recall?
Message>>> Would I expect to receive
notification even though I am not the
original owner? How would Dodge/Mitsu
know about me owning a Stealth 3rd
hand? Through my car registration?
<<<
DaimlerChrysler has a database searchable by VIN.
E-mail me your VIN and I
can look it up to see if you are listed as the
owner. You probably are --
they keep track of these things for this
reason (recalls).
Anybody with a Stealth (must be a Dodge, no Mitsu
branded cars) - I can tell
you when your car was built, what option codes it
had, any recalls, etc.
Send me your VIN. =)
Roger Roskam
91
Indy Stealth RT/TT
work e-mail:
rjr15@dcx.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 22:45:30
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
EGT probe lengths
Hi all,
I will be installing a dual Westach EGT
gauge. I have two probes that have
4" long tips. I did not think much when I
ordered them. Now I think 2.5"
tips would have been much
better.
Question: Is there enough room under the rear exhaust manifold to
install a
4" long probe?
I can access and replace the front EGT probe
much easier, therefore it is
not as critical for me to know the correct
length before I start the
teardown. But the rear one is a different
story.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 03:14:50
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: EGT probe lengths
> I will be installing a dual Westach EGT
gauge. I have
> two probes that have 4" long tips. I did not think
>
much when I ordered them. Now I think 2.5" tips would
> have been much
better.
> Question: Is there enough room under the rear
exhaust
> manifold to install a 4" long probe?
The probe I used
back there is probably 6" long.
You'll need to bend it to loop around
the heat shield
and hook up its wiring anyway. You don't want the
wiring between the heat shield and the manifold
anyways, so having a
slightly long probe is probably a
good thing.
...just verify that the
Westach probe can be gently
bent. I think mine's a Westach even though
it came
from SPA Technique.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:28:31
-0700
From: "Tigran Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intermitten Warning Light
If it is the light that looks like a
back of a penny, this is the coolant
warning. Likely your coolant
(antifreeze/water mix) is low. If it is the
other light that looks like a
tank half full of water, than it is the wiper
washer light.
Hope that
helps,
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Monday, June 24, 2002 6:19 AM
To: 'dakken';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Intermitten Warning Light
no owners manual in the
glovebox?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:36:40
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Injectors
> What is the difference between cleaning
injectors off the car and on the
> car? How do you clean injectors
on the car?
Here is a very good article that goes into great detail on
the subject. It
talks about fuel additives, autoshop cleaning and
removing the injectors to
clean have them cleaned in a specialized
shop. I recently had my used DSM
450 cc injectors cleaned off the
car.
http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/010815/11/8yn2.htmlDoug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:51:20
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT probe lengths
I called Westach and they said that it should
not be bent because there is
a ceramic core inside that separates the wires
going to the tip. But I
remember seeing a lot of probes bent all kinds of
ways.
I took another look at it and 4" seems okay to me now.
Thanks.
Philip
At 23:14 6/24/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>...just
verify that the Westach probe can be gently
>bent. I think mine's a
Westach even though it came
>from SPA Technique.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:33:51
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help......Engine Hesitating
Are you talking about the threaded
hole in the throttle body? That takes a
threaded plug with an
O-ring. Over time, they will un-thread and blow out.
There is no part
listing for the 3000GT/Stealth. However, you can order the
plug and
O-ring for an Eclipse throttle body and it fits fine, about $5. As
you
screw in the plug, it affects the idle RPM. As it comes out, RPM
rises.
As you screw it in, idle RPM will decrease.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Czarcd@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Saturday,
June 22, 2002 11:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: Help......Engine
Hesitating
> Hello Everyone,
>
>
> I hope
someone can help me. Today, my engine started hesitating.
After
> checking a few things out, I noticed a hissing sound coming
from
somewhere.
> I finally found it, it was coming from the part where
the Y-pipe attaches
to
> one side and the other side goes into the
intake plenum. It is the part
> where there are alot of vacuum
lines, it has 3 vacuum lines in a U shape
on
> top of each other going
horizontally. On that part where the vacuum lines
go
> into,
towards the front of the car, the hissing is coming out of a
>
approximately 1/4 of an inch hole, maybe just a little bit bigger. If
I
plug
> the hole with my finger the car starts to run smooth but idles
at
> approximately 1500 rpm. I was wondering if anyone knew what
went there,
did
> I loose a plug there or maybe there was a fitting or
a vacuum line. I am
> really lost. Has this ever happened to
anybody else? Any help would be
> greatly
appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:19:00
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Intercooler Piping
After doing one pass or just driving hard, my
DN Performance intercooler
pipes are a bit hotter than I think IC pipes
should be. Am I the only
one experiencing this, or are hot IC pipes a
common thing? I ask this
because my friend's dad had a S4 and the IC
pipes never got near the
temps mine do. Any ideas?
Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
13.505 @
103.63
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 08:14:40
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
are you sure that
brake fluid is coming out and not power steering fluid?
if brake fluid is
coming out of your reservior, you need to replace the
cap/rubber
diaphragm. That is NOT normal.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Dave and Becky Trent
[SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 4:48 PM
>
To: Team3s
> Subject: Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on
acceleration
>
> I can attest to the fact that if your fluid
reservoir is not all the way
> up
> to the high level mark, hard
acceleration will initiate the warning light.
> Unfortuntely, as an avid
open tracker, running fluid much above half full
> results in brake fluid
leaking out of the cap during hard use. I've
> learned
> to
ignore the warning light as opposed to cleaning up brake fluid from
>
around the reservoir.
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#879
***************************************
