Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, June 24
2002 Volume 01 : Number
878
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Jun 2002 04:08:16 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
> Nay. 0.4V is not lean enough
to cause a hesitation.
If that happens at WOT it is more than enough to
cause
detonation which can feel like a hesitation. In which
case,
try to add fuel at that RPM range to richen the
mixture to where it should
be. If you don't have a
fuel controller, look for intake leaks or
something
along those lines.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 00:19:44
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
He said that the knock sum was at
3 and ignition timing was normal.
And he DOES have an S-AFC fuel
controller.
Philip
At 00:08 6/23/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
> >
Nay. 0.4V is not lean enough to cause a hesitation.
>
>If that
happens at WOT it is more than enough to cause
>detonation which can feel
like a hesitation. In which
>case, try to add fuel at that RPM range
to richen the
>mixture to where it should be. If you don't have
a
>fuel controller, look for intake leaks or something
>along those
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 00:19:44
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
He said that the knock sum was at
3 and ignition timing was normal.
And he DOES have an S-AFC fuel
controller.
Philip
At 00:08 6/23/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
> >
Nay. 0.4V is not lean enough to cause a hesitation.
>
>If that
happens at WOT it is more than enough to cause
>detonation which can feel
like a hesitation. In which
>case, try to add fuel at that RPM range
to richen the
>mixture to where it should be. If you don't have
a
>fuel controller, look for intake leaks or something
>along those
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 21:48:04
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: Profec, BOV, Wires, K&N, FSM, Bra, APillar, TT,
CD
For your bidding pleasure and a reduction of the number of random
parts
lying in my garage, please look at the following links... all
have no
reserve and a $0.01 starting price. All these items WILL be
sold :-)
All my stuff:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=erikg144
GReddy
Profec A:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838694262GReddy
Type S BOV/BPV:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838698140Magnacor
KV85 Spark Plug Wires
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838784605K&N
FIPK (Smog-Legal Version):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=18387859943000GT
Factory Service Manuals:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838699986OEM
Mitsubishi Nosemask (bra):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838782283Lo-Tek
3x52mm A-pillar:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838788322HKS
Turbo Timer:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838786849Pioneer
CD Changer that works with '94-'96 OEM Infinity system:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838791135Good
Luck!
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with too many spare parts lying around the
garage
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 02:29:37
EDT
From:
Czarcd@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Help......Engine Hesitating
Hello Everyone,
I hope
someone can help me. Today, my engine started hesitating. After
checking a few things out, I noticed a hissing sound coming from
somewhere.
I finally found it, it was coming from the part where the
Y-pipe attaches to
one side and the other side goes into the intake
plenum. It is the part
where there are alot of vacuum lines, it has 3
vacuum lines in a U shape on
top of each other going horizontally. On
that part where the vacuum lines go
into, towards the front of the car, the
hissing is coming out of a
approximately 1/4 of an inch hole, maybe just a
little bit bigger. If I plug
the hole with my finger the car starts to
run smooth but idles at
approximately 1500 rpm. I was wondering if
anyone knew what went there, did
I loose a plug there or maybe there was a
fitting or a vacuum line. I am
really lost. Has this ever
happened to anybody else? Any help would be
greatly
appreciated.
Thanx,
Carlo
91 Black Stealth TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 00:18:46
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
Playing with my car a little
more, I found that it only hesitates at WOT. I
can go all the way to
redline with partial throttle and get no hesitation.
I have tried to richen
the fuel by reducing the air correction to -10%
instead of -20%. There
was no effect. I bought a vacuum pump today with a
vacuum gauge.
I tested the fuel control solenoid. It is good. The fuel
pump is
less than a month old, injectors are all tested and cleaned within
the last
month. I am going to replace the fuel filter. If that doesn't
fix
it then I will replace the fuel pressure regulator.
I seriously
considered that something in the ignition system might be
missing but at this
point I think the symptoms point more towards low fuel
pressure not keeping
up with engine demand. What really convinced me of
this was when I
noticed that if I decreased my boost then my car was
hesitating higher up in
the rpm band. With my boost controller turned off
and max boost at .45
kg/cm2 from the waste gate solenoids, my car was
hesitating at around 5000
rpms and was not hesitating nearly as much.
I will be very happy when I
do fix this problem. She is running like a bat
out of hell from 2500
rpms to 3500 rpms. I can't wait until I have my full
rpm band to
use.
Thanks for all the input. I'll give more updates as more
things develop or
when I find the fix.
PS: I tried to add more
water to the radiator but it wouldn't take any more
so I added water to the
coolant overflow bottle. That fixed my dash
warning
light.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi
SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro
341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and
gutted pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits
ignition system, Thermo
Tec exhaust wrap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:43:43
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: keyless entry rewire
Hi everyone,
I've been trying to
figure out a way to get the keyless entry to
flash the hazard lights or
something else on the outside. Right now it
flashes just the inside lights,
which I can't see during the day at all.
I've taken a look at the wiring
diagrams and so far the only feasible
solution I've found would be to tap
into one of the wires that go to the
overhead lights. I took it apart and saw
that there are two wires going
into the assembly. One is just power, the
other one is live(12v), but it
goes to zero every time the lights flash. I
was thinking of just running
a relay off of it, but wouldn't that mean that
for the way I'd have to
wire it, the relay would be always eating up power
except for the few
times that I do lock/unlock it? Wouldn't that discharge
the battery in
short order?
Any suggestions?
Alex.
'95
Vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 14:45:23
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: New Car Vid Compilation
Its 3 minutes long, set to
Linkin Park... Just finished it up this
morning...
http://66.25.73.198:880/~blah/http.htmLet
me know (privately) what ya'll think...
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:43:54
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Dodge 350 Road Race at Sears Point on TV now!
For those of you who
are stuck indoors on this gorgeous Sunday (like me),
you might want to turn
on the TV... The track that many of us run at, Sears
Point Raceway, is
the location of the Dodge 350 race, and it's on TV -
live - NOW! This
is the new NASCAR configuration for the track, and it's
different from what
we ran last year, and earlier this year. It looks
pretty
challenging... This is a great chance for those of you who might
race
this track someday to check it out. I'm learning as I watch it -
some
GREAT hints from the announcers and guest racers. Check it
out!
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:57:46
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Belt squeak
Darren: The last time I heard a sound like you
are describing my belt broke
about a week later leaving me the pleasure of
calling AAA for a tow. It was
at a really bad time too. Sooo - how new is
your belt? - if more than 6
months or 10k miles then why not just replace
it? Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
Team3S@team3s.com <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Date: Saturday,
June 22, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Belt squeak
>Thanks,
Bob. I refer to the starter trying to engage when the car
is
>already started like putting a 10" lag bolt against the blades of a
32"
>metal fan. Lots of metal-on-metal sounds going on. This
is definitely
>a squeak. If I rev up about 500 - 1,000 rpm then it
goes away (because
>the engine is loosening the belt or warming up the
belt maybe) but if
>sitting it takes itself about 10-20 seconds to stop
squeaking. Just
>annoying to start a nice performance car for the
locals and have it
>sound like an AMC Eagle that is 18 years
old.
>
>Maybe I'll capture the sound and we can add a sound library
to the
>Team3S site. Like the infamous "owl hoot" or a BOV going
"whoooosh" or
>brakes squeaking. Maybe I'm onto
something.
>
>--Flash!
>1995
VR-4
>www.schilberg.com
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
>Sent:
Saturday, June 22, 2002 18:04
>
>If it's worse with the A/C on, it
may well be a belt, but make sure the
>noise your hearing isn't your
starter. I've seen even good techs be
>fooled by this one.
When the starter is about to go, or has somewhat
>rusted and/or lost
lubricant, it doesn't release right away like it's
>supposed to, once your
car has actually started. It remains engaged for
>a moment and
causes a screech. It's similar to when you try to start
>the car
when it's already running... *screech*! Check it
out...
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 17:25:55
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
Andy, I will take a look at the belt but wouldn't 6
months or 10k miles
be basically a brand new belt? Since they are
replaced at 60k then I
would expect it to last a lot longer. 96k miles
on the car and belts
were changed at 60k.
Today I confirmed it was the
A/C belt and not the normal belts. I
started the car and turned off the
air. Then I turned on the air but
did not turn on the A/C. No
squeaks at all. Then I turned on the A/C
and I could hear the belt
engaging as that set of wheels got up to speed
and the fan kicked on.
Not real loud and not a full "clunk" but an
engaging sound. Then after
about half a second to a second the squeak
started. I turned off the
A/C and it stopped. I turned it on and it
engaged and then started
squeaking.
So maybe it is time to get a free check-up at an A/C place or
the dealer
and let them say it is fine and get their guarantee then when it
breaks
in 3 months let them replace it as they felt it was good for another
5
years. <grin>
I'm putting about 30k miles a year on it
now so I don't doubt that it is
wearing out sooner since I use A/C in the hot
days obviously but it may
also have been some Engine Cleaning solution from
the manual car wash
areas or Foamy Engine Brite that got down on the hub of
the A/C wheels
and cleaned out some grease too and replaced it with water and
some
rust. It could be anything but I think we've narrowed it down so
I'll
take a look at it at some point. It might just be a slipping belt
(too
tight or too loose) and that, of course, is an easy fix.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with a squeak followed by an owl hoot =)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew D. Woll [mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 15:58
Darren: The last time I heard
a sound like you are describing my belt
broke about a week later leaving me
the pleasure of calling AAA for a
tow. It was at a really bad time too. Sooo
- how new is your belt? - if
more than 6 months or 10k miles then why not
just replace it?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 22:17:26
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
> So maybe it is time to get a free check-up at an
A/C
> place or the dealer and let them say it is fine and
> get
their guarantee then when it breaks in 3 months
> let them replace it as
they felt it was good for
> another 5 years.
<grin>
...or you could just set the tension on the belt higher
and solve the problem. Jack up the front driver's
corner, remove
the wheel. Take off the splash panel in
front of the wheel (a few
bolts and few of those damn
plastic Mitsu trim retainer plugs), take off the
lower
engine splash panel (3 or 4 bolts and two plastic
retainer plugs),
then loosen the bolt on the tensioner
pulley (to the left of the crank
pulley) and the
adjustment is above the pulley - a 12mm bolt if I
remember right. Clockwise to increase tension,
counterclockwise to
reduce tension. Once you've got it
to the tension you want, put about
20 ft. lbs on the
pulley bolt, put the panels back on, put the wheel back
on and the problem should be solved.
If you don't like to do
mechanical stuff, just have
your trusted mechanic tighten the belt tension
for you.
Just as an FYI, you don't want to be spraying
lubricants
like WD40 on belts. If anything, doing that
made the situation worse
as the slipping belt will slip
worse and glaze the belt surface. That
belt should
probably be replaced, if possible. Lubricants and
belts do not mix.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:24:31
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
Thanks Matt. I will get to that when I change
front pads here before
long and the wheel is already off. And I recall
when I mentioned
spraying WD-40 down there at the very beginning but that was
with the
engine off (no air flying by pushing the WD-40 where it isn't
supposed
to go) and used a few drops and not a big ol' spray and the
wand
directed it into the center of the wheel. If anything I don't
think I
put enough on there but by now I had a few things back in the engine
bay
(rear IC pipe for one thing so getting down there again would be
more
tricky) so I'll look into another solution. Replacing it wouldn't
be a
bad idea as it will be seeing heavy use here in the next year. A
few
dollars on a belt is good to not be stranded later.
But it is the
A/C belt so that should not cause me to be stranded on the
side but should
just give no cold air. A timing belt would strand you.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 18:17
...or
you could just set the tension on the belt higher
and solve the
problem. Jack up the front driver's
corner, remove the wheel.
Take off the splash panel in
front of the wheel (a few bolts and few of
those damn
plastic Mitsu trim retainer plugs), take off the lower
engine
splash panel (3 or 4 bolts and two plastic
retainer plugs), then loosen the
bolt on the tensioner
pulley (to the left of the crank pulley) and the
adjustment is above the pulley - a 12mm bolt if I
remember right.
Clockwise to increase tension,
counterclockwise to reduce tension.
Once you've got it
to the tension you want, put about 20 ft. lbs on the
pulley bolt, put the panels back on, put the wheel back
on and the
problem should be solved.
If you don't like to do mechanical stuff, just
have
your trusted mechanic tighten the belt tension for you.
Just as
an FYI, you don't want to be spraying
lubricants like WD40 on belts.
If anything, doing that
made the situation worse as the slipping belt will
slip
worse and glaze the belt surface. That belt should
probably
be replaced, if possible. Lubricants and
belts do not
mix.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 17:40:12
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Belt squeak
The ac runs off the alternator belt. I.e. the
alternator and the ac
compressor are on the same belt, so if it breaks,
there's a bit of a
problem ;)
Alex.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Sunday, June 23, 2002 5:25 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Belt squeak
Thanks Matt. I will get to that when I change front
pads here before
long and the wheel is already off. And I recall when I
mentioned
spraying WD-40 down there at the very beginning but that was with
the
engine off (no air flying by pushing the WD-40 where it isn't
supposed
to go) and used a few drops and not a big ol' spray and the
wand
directed it into the center of the wheel. If anything I don't
think I
put enough on there but by now I had a few things back in the engine
bay
(rear IC pipe for one thing so getting down there again would be
more
tricky) so I'll look into another solution. Replacing it wouldn't
be a
bad idea as it will be seeing heavy use here in the next year. A
few
dollars on a belt is good to not be stranded later.
But it is the
A/C belt so that should not cause me to be stranded on the
side but should
just give no cold air. A timing belt would strand you.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 18:17
...or
you could just set the tension on the belt higher
and solve the
problem. Jack up the front driver's
corner, remove the wheel.
Take off the splash panel in
front of the wheel (a few bolts and few of
those damn
plastic Mitsu trim retainer plugs), take off the lower
engine
splash panel (3 or 4 bolts and two plastic
retainer plugs), then loosen the
bolt on the tensioner
pulley (to the left of the crank pulley) and the
adjustment is above the pulley - a 12mm bolt if I
remember right.
Clockwise to increase tension,
counterclockwise to reduce tension.
Once you've got it
to the tension you want, put about 20 ft. lbs on the
pulley bolt, put the panels back on, put the wheel back
on and the
problem should be solved.
If you don't like to do mechanical stuff, just
have
your trusted mechanic tighten the belt tension for you.
Just as
an FYI, you don't want to be spraying
lubricants like WD40 on belts.
If anything, doing that
made the situation worse as the slipping belt will
slip
worse and glaze the belt surface. That belt should
probably
be replaced, if possible. Lubricants and
belts do not
mix.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:47:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
Alex,
10-4. Was thinking more of the
other A/C parts that are separate (like
the fan for example). It could
very well be the A/C fan that is
squeaking on its own bearing and not the
belt. I'm just not brave
enough to be sticking my ear down behind the
A/C fan when it kicks on to
see for sure. But if I never use the A/C
then it never squeaks so even
if it is the same belt then it should squeak at
some point unless the
A/C turning on is adding too much tension or not
enough. But keeping
the A/C off eliminates the squeak.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:apedenko@earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 18:40
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Belt squeak
The ac runs off the alternator belt. I.e. the alternator
and the ac
compressor are on the same belt, so if it breaks, there's a bit of
a
problem ;)
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 15:58:25
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Belt squeak
Have you tried using the garden hose trick to
find where the squeak is
coming from?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 21:43:58
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Wow. . .
Hey guys- I own an SL. . .ive never been in a VR-4 until today.
. .
i just wanted to say. . wow. . i now understand. . .
-
-mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 21:53:54
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wow. . .
Welcome to what we drive every day of the week and twice
on Sunday.
Fun, ain't it?
Now for the technical part of the
post. Sure it was fun but 19 gallons
of 94 Octane gas at $1.55 once a
week is hard on the wallet, parts are
expensive and sometimes you need to buy
two of them (turbos, ICs, air
intake pipes), almost no shop will even want to
hear that you want them
to work on the rear-end with all its steering and
suspension bits. Sure
it is nice but sometimes it gets to be a pain
sometimes as well. I'm
sure you have seen enough woes on the list from
the VR-4/TT crowd from
time to time.
On the flip side I had never been
in an SL before and finally got the
chance to ride in a friend's. I was
most impressed with how well he
held with me (back when my car was stock) at
highway speeds and slightly
over. Nice car for the SL line.
Obviously up higher in the curve my
car would pull on him but for 4,000
pounds lighter and maybe $10k less
when new I would have entertained an
SL. All of the cars are nice in my
mind (except that the Stealth luxury
sports car never had a sunroof
which boggled my mind).
Glad you could
experience it though.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Sunday, June
23, 2002 21:44
Hey guys- I own an SL. . .ive never been in a VR-4 until
today. . .
i just wanted to say. . wow. . i now understand. .
.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 19:16:15
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Belt squeak
Or better yet, go to your local grocery store armed with
about $5 and buy a
squirt gun. You'll have a much better aim that way and
it'll be more
precise.
Assuming that the problem is related to belt
tension, you could:
Delay the inevitable by buying some of that belt
dressing from a local auto
parts store. That'll moisturize and increase the
grip of the belt if you're
too busy and/or lazy to change the belt soon.
However, it really won't buy
you much time.
Assuming the problem is
related to tension going outside of operating range:
You will need to
adjust the belt tension so that it remains in a range that
is not only
acceptable with the A/C off, but also with the A/C on. It could
take a little
bit of experimenting. If you don't see any cracks and your
belt doesn't
'look' glazed, you should still use some belt dressing (costed
me about $2.50
at the auto parts store, and I don't get squeaks anymore)
Riyan
1993
stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm-
-----------------------cut--------------------------->
Have you tried
using the garden hose trick to find where the squeak is
coming
from?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
-
----------------------------cut---------------------->
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 22:25:44
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wow. . .
At 21:53 6/23/2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>On
the flip side I had never been in an SL before and finally got the
>chance
to ride in a friend's. I was most impressed with how well he
>held
with me (back when my car was stock) at highway speeds and
slightly
>over. Nice car for the SL line. Obviously up higher
in the curve my
>car would pull on him but for 4,000 pounds lighter and
maybe $10k less
>when new I would have entertained an SL.
I toyed
with an idea of buying a Stealth TT right out of college, when I
had no
money whatsoever. I went to a Mitsu dealer and asked for a ride in a
VR-4.
They did not let me because the only one that they had had already
been
sold. But I got a ride in an SL, 3.0L 5-speed, with a salesman sitting
right
next to me. Lemme tell you, I tried to be careful, but I still
chirped the
tires from the start and then did a little drifting on an
off-ramp while
feeling in complete control. Not a bad car-driver
coordination after driving
for only 3-5 minutes!
Philip
'95 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 06:08:02
-0600
From: norman ross <
normanross@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
oil
Iam going on along trip what is the best oil to put in
and is it
good for raceing too.
Thanks Norman
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#878
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