Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, June 22
2002 Volume 01 : Number
877
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:36:25 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Oil cooler/Oil filter mount ?
Russ,
Not sure if you
saw Todd Shelton's Setrab
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab1.jpg.
He posted a nice story about it back
in May.
Philip
At 21:21
6/21/2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> I am trying to upgrade the
stock oil cooler with a nice Setrab I am unsure
>which one to
get.....
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:14:25
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms
I am having hesitation starting around
3700 rpms and going to redline. I
have zero knock, O2 is over .9 volts
and my injectors are at 80% max. This
happens with amost every boost
setting. I have been able to hold 14 psi
boost from 2500 rpms until it
started to hesitate at 3700 rpms in 3rd and
4th gear. I was even able
to get 14 psi in 1st gear before it started
hesitating. When I turn my
AVCR off, I still get the hesitation, only it
comes at about 5000 rpms and is
not nearly as bad. During the hesitation,
boost drops to between 6 and
9 psi. I know it is not my recent mods that
did this becaust my car was
acting like this before my mods. I thought it
was spark blowout and
just lived with it until I installed new plugs today
that are gapped at
.032.
SAFC is set at -20% low throttle and -18% high.
I am going
to do a few more runs tomorrow to get more data.
Could this be caused by
a bad BOV?
Is there some way that something in the ignition system is missing
at higher
rpms?
Any suggestions would be
appreciated.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits
ignition system, a front exhaust
manifold that doesn't have a *&^#@! crack
in it.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 14:30:45
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Timing Belt-Waterpump
Hello
Is there any site there step-by-step
instructions to cange Timing Belt and
Waterpump.
Will say thanks to
Oskar that helped me to buy parts from US that i cant buy
in
Europe.
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 10:45:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Belt squeak
After initially starting my car (1995 VR-4 w/96k
miles) there is a nice
loud noisy squeak from the engine bay as if a belt is
slipping or a
wheel is sticking. It is worse when the A/C is turned on
so I was
assuming it was with the belts. If I turn off the car and
spray a small
shot of WD-40 on the wheel that is easy to reach (down in the
bay on the
front driver's side sort of by the front axle) then it quiets it
down on
the next start up until this gets worn away or until the belt
sees
another part of the wheel.
How can I tell if the belt is slipping
or if the wheel is slipping? The
belt seems tight enough to be within
spec (did not measure yet) and if
the wheel is tight then maybe any grease or
lubricant that used to be
there has been worn away now.
-
--Flash!
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 10:48:14
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
You read correctly ... On
my '95 VR-4 when I make some hard launches or
aggressive starts from turns or
ramps even I get the e-brake indicator
to light up in the instrument cluster
for a second or so and I'll shift
to second and it will still be there and
then will go out within another
second or so. Any reason why? It
shouldn't have anything to do with
how much is left on the e-brake
pad/shoe.
I'm thinking it might be a loose handle and on the hard
launches the
handle is moving slightly to make the idiot light go on.
I'll try
holding down the handle when I see the light next time or tape it
down.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 10:04:39
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Oil cooler/Oil filter mount ?
When i did my front mount, it
took me forever to find the fittings. They
are 16mm threads. I don't
remember the thread pitch, but the only ones i
found were the correct ones.
As it turns out, i ended up using banjo hose
ends, so i still have the 2
fittings. I'll sell them for $25. They are for
- -10
hose.
Jack
At 09:25 PM 6/21/02 -0400, you wrote:
>As an
addendum to this email does anyone know waht NPT to AN adapter I
will
>need to use to replace the stock banjo bolts found on the oil
filter
>assembly? I took one to the hardware store it appears to be
5/8" with an 18
>thread??????
>
>Thanks Again
>Russ
F
>CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 11:33:48
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Is the E-brake light the
same as the low brake fluid light?
Philip
At 10:48 6/22/2002,
Darren Schilberg wrote:
>You read correctly ... On my '95 VR-4 when I make
some hard launches or
>aggressive starts from turns or ramps even I get
the e-brake indicator
>to light up in the instrument cluster for a second
or so and I'll shift
>to second and it will still be there and then will
go out within another
>second or so. Any reason why? It
shouldn't have anything to do with
>how much is left on the e-brake
pad/shoe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 11:42:28
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Philip,
If it is
then it does not make sense. As an avid road racer I make it a
point to
always keep the brake fluid filled and fresh. It is not below
the Min
mark so that is not the problem. Unless, on hard launches the
fluid
gets slung to the back but since I know the little electrical
sensors are
down in the reservoir quite far I do not think this is the
problem.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Saturday, June 22, 2002 11:34
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: E-brake indicator light on acceleration
Is the E-brake
light the same as the low brake fluid light?
Philip
At 10:48
6/22/2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>You read correctly ... On my '95 VR-4
when I make some hard launches or
>aggressive starts from turns or
ramps even I get the e-brake indicator
>to light up in the instrument
cluster for a second or so and I'll shift
>to second and it will still
be there and then will go out within
>another second or so. Any
reason why? It shouldn't have anything to
>do with how much is left
on the e-brake pad/shoe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 08:56:11
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intermitten Warning Light
I have an intermitten warning light
coming on. It is the one on the bottom
right of the instrument panel
that looks to me like an ancient greek
building. I have searched
several 3S web sites and looked in my service
manual. I can't find
anything that says what any of the warning lights
mean. Would someone
give me a link that shows all the warning lights and
what they
mean?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits
ignition system
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 12:15:54
-0400
From: "
mxjashogar@cogeco.ca"
<
mxjashogar@cogeco.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: intermitten warning light coming on
That light is for your
antifreeze being to low or needs servicing.
Garry
I have an intermittent
warning light coming on. It is the one on the
bottom
right of the
instrument panel that looks to me like an ancient greek
building. I
have searched several 3S web sites and looked in my service
manual.
I can't find anything that says what any of the warning lights
mean.
Would someone give me a link that shows all the warning lights
and
what
they mean?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 12:47:28
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Oil cooler/Oil filter mount ?
Thanks for the offer Jack
but I am allset, as it turns out I was able to
get everything figured
out (God damn I love Lowes).
Here is the parts list I
ended up going with and will report bacl how
everything fits/works
out.
I used all Earl's fittings/hoses and I am going to reference
the summit part
numbers but I ordered them through a local shop, the owner
graduted and is
friends with my sister so I get hooked up
:)
EAR-991941 (2) -6AN to 5/8" 20 thread
(turns out the banjo bolt on the
filter assembly is exactly this god bless
LOWE's)
EAR-809106 (2) -6AN 90 elbow
EAR-406004
(6ft) -6AN Perform O Flex hose
EAR-815006 (2)
-6AN 150 bend
EAR-981506 (2) -6AN male to
male
Setrab 25 row oil cooler model #625-6 dimensions
are 7.5" tall by 13"
wide (my only concern here is will this be too
wide...)
The grand total with cooler was 290 (not including
shipping on the cooler) I
will take pics and write up a FAQ on this if the
list/admins want it....
Parts should all be in house by wednesday so a
project for Saturday the
29th???
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent: Sat 6/22/2002 11:04 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.com Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Oil cooler/Oil filter mount ?
When i did my
front mount, it took me forever to find the fittings. They
are 16mm threads.
I don't remember the thread pitch, but the only ones i
found were the
correct ones. As it turns out, i ended up using banjo hose
ends, so i still
have the 2 fittings. I'll sell them for $25. They are for
- -10 hose.
Jack
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 10:43:47
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
I've just gone over my logger
data. It seems that I have a fuel problem
somewhere. When I get
the hesitation my O2 readings drop to between .40 and
.65 volts. I
still have over 14 volts to my fuel pump and my injector duty
cycle is
staying steady around 60%. Timing is staying steady in the
mid
20s. I see knock at 2 tops.
I am thinking it is my fuel
pressure regulator. Any suggestions?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX
SS
braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits
ignition system, a front exhaust manifold that doesn't have a *&^#@!
crack
in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 10:59:02
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lowering my Spyder
> The only coilover setup for a 1995 VR-4
is the Tein HA
> unless by some miracle Ground Control fits
without
> having to cut springs.
I thought the problem with
the non-ECS suspension was more to do with spring
diameter, not spring
height???
> I think first gen can use almost anyhing (go to Eibach,
> Ground Control, etc. and it will say "1991 up to 1995
> not
including power sunroof"). The 1995 VR-4 has the
> power sunroof so
I am SOL.
Not all '95 VR-4s have the non-ECS suspension with the
"different" spring
perches. 1995 VR-4s that do not have the electronic
sunroof have ECS
(according to CAPS), which will work with many of the
spring/strut/shock
combinations out there. Further, AFAIK, the Spyders
have ECS (at least
according to my FSM) and therefore should be compatible
with most suspension
options on the market. I personally know of at
least one '95 VR-4 Spyder
owner with Intrax springs on his car.
-
--Erik
FWIW, it seems (from CAPS) that all '95 3000GT SL models have
ECS,
independent of the sunroof option. Therefore, I would think that
any '95 SL
should be able to use any of the various spring kits, regardless
of the type
or presence of sunroof. I've personally seen (with my own
eyes) a '95
3000GT with a power sunroof and ECS.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 14:36:30
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lowering my Spyder
Erik,
I thought it was
not having to do with the spring at all but the
spring perch in the
rear. I know a friend with a '95 VR-4 cut a few
turns off his springs
but I would tend to not want to do this. I don't
know what the
difference is. Read on.
Correct that if a '95 VR-4 has ECS
it will not have a power sunroof
and if it has a power sunroof it will not
have ECS. However, what is
the Spyder top called? A power
sunroof? No, it is a power top. So
that just messes up the nice,
neat equation. It might also be
considered manual since you have to
make latch changes or ensure there
is nothing in the trunk to block it,
etc. I know ... I'm reaching.
And it is fine to get Intrax
springs or Eibach springs on your car.
I was talking about a "coilover
system" which is similar but still
different. Since it combines more
than just the spring then it needs to
replace that whole concoction in there
and that, for some reason, is not
listed in any catalogs except the Tein HA
setup.
And a '95 SL is not the same weight as a VR-4 and has
no
all-wheel-steering gizmo in the rear to worry about. That is
most
likely why it can use all spring packages.
Please get me
the name of this owner of the '95 with power sunroof
and ECS. I thought
that never existed or maybe it is like the automatic
VR-4 that was only for
one or two Execs back in the beginning.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with
power sunroof and no ECS
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross,
Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002
13:59
> The only coilover setup for a 1995 VR-4 is the Tein HA
>
unless by some miracle Ground Control fits without
> having to cut
springs.
I thought the problem with the non-ECS suspension was more to do
with
spring diameter, not spring height???
> I think first gen can
use almost anyhing (go to Eibach,
> Ground Control, etc. and it will say
"1991 up to 1995
> not including power sunroof"). The 1995 VR-4 has
the
> power sunroof so I am SOL.
Not all '95 VR-4s have the non-ECS
suspension with the "different"
spring perches. 1995 VR-4s that do not
have the electronic sunroof have
ECS (according to CAPS), which will work
with many of the
spring/strut/shock combinations out there. Further,
AFAIK, the Spyders
have ECS (at least according to my FSM) and therefore
should be
compatible with most suspension options on the market. I
personally
know of at least one '95 VR-4 Spyder owner with Intrax springs on
his
car.
- --Erik
FWIW, it seems (from CAPS) that all '95
3000GT SL models have ECS,
independent of the sunroof option.
Therefore, I would think that any
'95 SL should be able to use any of the
various spring kits, regardless
of the type or presence of sunroof.
I've personally seen (with my own
eyes) a '95 3000GT with a power sunroof and
ECS.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:12:08
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Overhaul
Hello everyone. Need a little help here. I'm
gonna do an engine overhaul on
my VR-4. I'm gonna drop in a brand new short
block. For those of you who
have had this done, I need a rough estimate of
the labor so that I can shop
around for a shop to do the work. The shop
that has my car right now wants
$1400 just for the labor. Is it just me
or does this sounds a little too
high? Anyone in the S. Texas area know of a
reputable shop around here? I'm
planning on putting in a new oil pump, timing
belt kit, new water pump, and
lifters. Any other stuff I should also put
in? I've heard there's some
aftermarket liftrs that are not as noisy as
the stock ones. Anyone know
where I can get them? Thanks for everything
folks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 20:00:28
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Plugging voltmeter into engine functions
Hey guys,
I got
this connector (automotive style 8-prong male/female plastic thingy)
and im
going to tap the leads into certain engine functions -02 sensors,
fuel pump
voltage, intake temp, etc- and mount it hidden under the dash
somewhere.
Then connect the other half to a dial switch and a
voltmeter.
This will let me quickly plug in, and when im done, unplug it
and toss it in
the glovebox/trunk.
Question 1: Any suggestions on the
readings i might want to take? The
selector switch is 6 position, so i might
as well fill in the other three.
(I dont think you can read the knock sensor
this way, but tell me if im
wrong)
Question 2: are there one or two
leads going into the ECU from the 02
sensors. (Im thinking maybe i could
switch between the front and rear
sensors to get the readings off of each
cylinder bank).
Any help/suggestions would be great.
- -Fast
Eddie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 14:03:15
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Belt squeak
I have a Celica that had a problem like
yours. It was constantly squeaking
and more so when first
started. It turned out the belt was TOO tight. I
loosened the
tensioner wheel a little and the squeak went away permanently.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:03:51
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Belt squeak
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> After
initially starting my car (1995 VR-4 w/96k miles) there is a nice
loud noisy
squeak from the engine bay as if a belt is slipping or a wheel
is
sticking. It is worse when the A/C is turned on so I was assuming it
was
with the belts......
-
---------------snip--------------->
If it's worse with the A/C on, it
may well be a belt, but make sure the
noise your hearing isn't your
starter. I've seen even good techs be fooled
by this one. When
the starter is about to go, or has somewhat rusted and/or
lost lubricant, it
doesn't release right away like it's supposed to, once
your car has actually
started. It remains engaged for a moment and causes a
screech.
It's similar to when you try to start the car when it's already
running...
*screech*! Check it out...
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 18:35:56
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine Overhaul
Good luck in South Texas... Sure, theres a
few reputable shops, but the
term they are reputable for is usually about
half the time it takes to
repair a car... I would seriously consider
the dealer in southern
Texas, as they would have the best guarantee on their
work...
Or, just do like me and do it yourself... There are no
aftermarket
lifters readily available. There are a newer style lifter
with larger
oiling holes available that will do just fine for ya, although
some have
claimed their tick is still present...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 2:12 PM
Cc:
'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
'
Subject: Team3S: Engine Overhaul
Hello everyone. Need a little help
here. I'm gonna do an engine overhaul
on
my VR-4. I'm gonna drop in a
brand new short block. For those of you who
have had this done, I need a
rough estimate of the labor so that I can
shop
around for a shop to do the
work. The shop that has my car right now
wants
$1400 just for the
labor. Is it just me or does this sounds a little
too
high? Anyone
in the S. Texas area know of a reputable shop around here?
I'm
planning on
putting in a new oil pump, timing belt kit, new water pump,
and
lifters.
Any other stuff I should also put in? I've heard there's
some
aftermarket liftrs that are not as noisy as the stock ones. Anyone
know
where I can get them? Thanks for everything folks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 21:38:14
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation at 3700 rpms Update
Nay. 0.4V is not lean enough to
cause a hesitation.
Can you keep that hesitation going? Say in 4th or 5th
gear and 3700 RPM
while applying a little brake to keep the car from
accelerating? Maybe you
could play with your SAFC setting at that RPM. Log a
steady 02 voltage at
that speed. Connect an 02 gauge or a regular digital
voltmeter to both 02
sensors, see if you are getting any unusual.
If
not fuel, it could be your ignition. The voltage is dropping a little
because you are getting unburned fuel/air in your
exhaust.
Philip
At 13:43 6/22/2002, dakken wrote:
>I've just
gone over my logger data. It seems that I have a fuel
problem
>somewhere. When I get the hesitation my O2 readings drop to
between .40 and
>.65 volts. I still have over 14 volts to my fuel
pump and my injector duty
>cycle is staying steady around 60%.
Timing is staying steady in the mid
>20s. I see knock at 2
tops.
>
>I am thinking it is my fuel pressure regulator. Any
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 22:13:07
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Plugging voltmeter into engine functions
At 16:00 6/22/2002,
Aaron Kealey wrote:
>Question 1: Any suggestions on the readings i might
want to take? The
>selector switch is 6 position, so i might as well fill
in the other three.
>(I dont think you can read the knock sensor this way,
but tell me if im wrong)
With a plain voltmeter you can read the
following paramaters:
Oxygen Sensor Left (Rear)
Oxygen Sensor Right
(Front)
Throttle position
Coolant Temp
Oil Temp
Oil
Pressure
Ambient temperature
Atmospheric Pressure
>Question 2:
are there one or two leads going into the ECU from the 02
>sensors. (Im
thinking maybe i could switch between the front and rear
>sensors to get
the readings off of each cylinder bank).
Yes. Each sensor has one signal
wire that goes to the ECU. You can connect
to them either at the sensor
connectors under the hood or at the ECU. Those
wires are white between the
O2 sensor connectors and the ECU.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 22:38:28
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Belt squeak
Thanks, Bob. I refer to the starter trying to
engage when the car is
already started like putting a 10" lag bolt against
the blades of a 32"
metal fan. Lots of metal-on-metal sounds going
on. This is definitely
a squeak. If I rev up about 500 - 1,000
rpm then it goes away (because
the engine is loosening the belt or warming up
the belt maybe) but if
sitting it takes itself about 10-20 seconds to stop
squeaking. Just
annoying to start a nice performance car for the locals
and have it
sound like an AMC Eagle that is 18 years old.
Maybe I'll
capture the sound and we can add a sound library to the
Team3S site.
Like the infamous "owl hoot" or a BOV going "whoooosh" or
brakes
squeaking. Maybe I'm onto something.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Saturday,
June 22, 2002 18:04
If it's worse with the A/C on, it may well be a belt,
but make sure the
noise your hearing isn't your starter. I've seen even
good techs be
fooled by this one. When the starter is about to go, or
has somewhat
rusted and/or lost lubricant, it doesn't release right away like
it's
supposed to, once your car has actually started. It remains
engaged for
a moment and causes a screech. It's similar to when you try
to start
the car when it's already running... *screech*! Check it
out...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 03:58:53
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Lowering my Spyder
> However, what is the Spyder top
called? A power
> sunroof? No, it is a power top. So
that just
> messes up the nice, neat equation. It might also
>
be considered manual since you have to make latch
> changes or ensure
there is nothing in the trunk to
> block it, etc. I know ... I'm
reaching.
It is simply called a "Spyder" by the spring
manufacturers. It wouldn't be considered a manual top
since there
is not one single manual thing that the
owner needs to do to operate it
other than press a
switch (the trunk sensor ensures nothing is in the
trunk, and the latches are all automatically
actuated). The main
reason (as far as I can tell) why
the spring kit guys don't make Spyder
springs is
because if you use the standard lowering springs they
aren't
really set up to handle the additional weight
(the Spyders come with stiffer
springs from the
factory). I haven't personally verified that the
perches are different or anything along those lines.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#877
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