Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, June 19
2002 Volume 01 : Number
874
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 18 Jun 2002 15:02:57 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Andre Cerri [SMTP:cerri@intersystems.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 2:49 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: ECS and TPS and Datalogging
>
> Three questions
for my 92 SL:
>
> 1) ECS. Is this dynamic I.e. can it be adjusted
on the move?
[Willis, Charles E.] Yes.
> I've tried both
>
positions of the button, and either see nothing appear in the dash
>
display,
> or watch it flick back and forward between the two
modes.
[Willis, Charles E.] Don't understand - if you see nothing then
you
probably have burned out bulbs for Tour and Sport. If it switches
between
which bulb is lit, it is working. Does an SL actually have
ECS?
> 2) TPS. Have an intermittent problem whereby the autobox won't
change up
> unless I release the throttle for a fraction. Also, check
engine light
> comes
> on when this is happening as I come to a
stop.
[Willis, Charles E.] Ah, hah! Check the CODE that is
stored for
the Check Engine Light. Based on what the dealer is saying,
it is the code
for TPS. Some codes are erased when the condition that
generated them is
corrected. Check the service manual. You could
swap the TPS yourself and
save some $.
> Took the car to a dealer
for
> a missed recall and they suggested the TPS needed replacing and
quoted
> $140
> or so, but it wasn't 100% as of course it didn't
happen that day.
> Comments?
>
> 3) Datalogging. Is there a
good write up anywhere on how to do this i.e.
> what software, cables,
diagnoses etc? I have the laptop....;o)
>
> Thx
>
>
Andre
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 19:57:48
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Broken piston/Ceramic Coating Pics
Yes, that is how all of
the rods looked. I've also seen some pictures of
other 3/S rods that
have the same heating marks from assembly. Hopefully,
yours will not be
installed this way.
Rich
on 6/18/02 6:04 PM, fastmax at
fastmax@cox.net wrote:
> Are you
sure that the heating is caused by heating during assembly and
> not
heating caused by poor oiling of the wrist pin. The Venoila pistons I
>
have on order have an oil hole drilled to facilitate oiling of the pin.
For
> race applications they drill the rod to provide pressurized oiling
of the
> pin.
>
> Jim Berry
>
===========================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@cox.net>
>
>> See the links below for pictures of the broken Ross piston (wrist
pin),
>> ceramic coated pistons, and block after about 12K miles.
I was surprised
>> how much carbon buildup was on the pistons and
heads, especially with the
>> methanol/water injection. You can
see the rod was heated and the pin
>> pressed through the rod.
According to the pro engine builders, this is the
>> easier assembly
method, but not as good as floating the rod on the wrist pin
>> and
using retainers.
>>
>> [approx. 80-90K each]
>>
>>
http://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/wristpin.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 02:51:23
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Broken piston/Ceramic Coating Pics
> Are you sure that
the heating is caused by heating
> during assembly and not heating caused
by poor oiling
> of the wrist pin. he Venoila pistons I have on
order
> have an oil hole drilled to facilitate oiling of the
> pin.
For race applications they drill the rod to
> provide pressurized oiling
of the pin.
The pins that come with the Ross pistons are meant to
be
mounted full-floating. They won't press fit into
the rods without a
lot of heat being applied to the rod
end. I'm surprised that they
could even get it to fit
at all - my machine shop basically said "No way"
when I
asked them if it was possible. We ended up honing out
the
rod end for a little clearance (I think .004" or
something like that),
drilling a 1/8" hole in the top
of the rod and then drilling a 45 degree
chamfer into
the hole to funnel oil to the pin. No problems
yet...
(fingers crossed!).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 19:52:37
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Broken piston/Ceramic Coating Pics
No --- I got the
floating pin version. I was told to convert to the floating pin
even if I
kept the stock rods --- I went with
Pauter.
Jim
berry
==================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@cox.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 18, 2002 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Broken piston/Ceramic
Coating Pics
> Yes, that is how all of the rods looked. I've
also seen some pictures of
> other 3/S rods that have the same heating
marks from assembly. Hopefully,
> yours will not be installed this
way.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:36:22
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS 3S
Im a little
confused-
I know that both cars are considered Grand Touring coupes, but
it seems that
they are 2 different guns aiming at the same
mark.
Toyota never had to consult with another car company-mitsu had to,
and dodge
insisted that the stealth had a 17 grand entry level car-so mitsu
had to
consider that when developing the car. Also, the 3000GT came out in
91 as
competition for the Z, so it had to have more gizmos then the Nissan
did. The
Supra at the time was an overweight car that wasnt as fast. So
Toyota had
time to see what the 3S did, and how it did it, and they realized
that both
cars were overweight. Of course its faster-its a newer design. The
2JZ (i
know my fast and furious) had valve timing and a few other
goodies-its a more
modern engine. It doesnt have all wheel drive or steering
or active aero. . u
guys kno the list, so its lighter.
I just think
its comparing apples to oranges.
The Supra owner just has to pray
that its not wet out when he gets next to
you at the light. . .
Sorry
for the long letter
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 00:31:44
-0400
From: "Samuel Mercedes Jr." <
elrey84@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fallen Warrior (all my fault)
I just had to write to get this off
my chest. How many out there, by what
ever means or whoever else's fault it
was, have totaled their 3000GT. I did
and I feel horrible. I admit to it
being my fault. I dosed off at the wheel
and went through two brick columns
at about 60 mph. I came out of the car
fine with no scratches, but the minute
I stepped out of the car and saw what
I turn that lovely piece of machinery
into, I almost broke down crying.
During the crash, you know those minutes
were time slows down and people
say they can see it happening in slow
motion, I was not worried about myself
(honestly), because as I feel and I'm
sure others out there agree, The
3000GT was in a way, a tank. My 92 3000GT SL
weighing in at 3350lbs
protected me till the end. These are great cars, They
give us joy when we
get in them and take almost anything we see on the road,
with the exeptions
of those "special" cars. . I know that in any case, I
could be mad at the
world, everything always felt right and I was happy when
I got in the car.
These cars can be soothing, all you have to do is get in
tune with the car
and relax. They can also get us upset and angry when
they don't want to
work. But all this comes with the experience and joy of
owning one. Maybe
there is a point when you become to attached to something
and maybe there
isn't. I just know I lost a really good thing last night. If
anyone out in
the 3000GT world understands me let me know, don't let me feel
like I'm the
only one. I took care of that car as much as I could. Every
little noise I
heard, I paid attention too. Never abused it when I didn't
have to, tried to
keep miles off it when I could, and anything else I could
think of to give
the car as much life and unnecesarry wear as possible. Then
here I go and
try to drive home at 3 in the morning. What Im getting to is be
careful what
you do. I'm sure everyone knows that, but im sure that we all
forget at
times. Please everyone take care of yourselves and our wonderful
machines,
be they stock or not.
This is Samuel Mercedes Im only 17.
(Forgive the fact that this is a
teenagers outlook, maybe my feelings will
change as I get older.............
maybe not.)
Yes in the end I came out
fine, nothing happened to me but Im giving credit
were I think its
due.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 00:39:57
-0400
From: HigherBeing <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fallen Warrior (all my fault)
I will drink to that,, the only
thing that came close to my and this car is
my 1968 Ford Tank,, ( Bronco). I
love this car and it is going to my grave
with me,, unless my daughter
graduates first then it goes to her.. But she
is 3 so i have some
time..
Thanks for the Thoughts on the Cars and what you have said just
makes me sit
back and think..
Jerry 93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth
E/S.
Quick note,, where might you live and interested in a 91 Stealth
SOHC? i
know of one for sale,, cheap and still in good condition...
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Samuel Mercedes Jr." <
elrey84@earthlink.net>
To: "3000
GT" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 19, 2002 12:31 AM
Subject: Team3S: Fallen Warrior (all my
fault)
> I just had to write to get this off my chest. How many out
there, by what
> ever means or whoever else's fault it was, have totaled
their 3000GT. I
did
> and I feel horrible. I admit to it being my
fault. I dosed off at the
wheel
> and went through two brick columns at
about 60 mph. I came out of the car
> fine with no scratches, but the
minute I stepped out of the car and saw
what
> I turn that lovely piece
of machinery into, I almost broke down crying.
> During the crash, you
know those minutes were time slows down and people
> say they can
see it happening in slow motion, I was not worried about
myself
>
(honestly), because as I feel and I'm sure others out there agree, The
>
3000GT was in a way, a tank. My 92 3000GT SL weighing in at 3350lbs
>
protected me till the end. These are great cars, They give us joy when
we
> get in them and take almost anything we see on the road, with
the
exeptions
> of those "special" cars. . I know that in any case, I
could be mad at the
> world, everything always felt right and I was happy
when I got in the car.
> These cars can be soothing, all you have to do is
get in tune with the car
> and relax. They can also get us upset and
angry when they don't want to
> work. But all this comes with the
experience and joy of owning one. Maybe
> there is a point when you become
to attached to something and maybe there
> isn't. I just know I lost a
really good thing last night. If anyone out in
> the 3000GT world
understands me let me know, don't let me feel like I'm
the
> only one.
I took care of that car as much as I could. Every little noise I
> heard,
I paid attention too. Never abused it when I didn't have to, tried
to
>
keep miles off it when I could, and anything else I could think of to
give
> the car as much life and unnecesarry wear as possible. Then here I
go and
> try to drive home at 3 in the morning. What Im getting to is be
careful
what
> you do. I'm sure everyone knows that, but im sure that
we all forget at
> times. Please everyone take care of yourselves and our
wonderful machines,
> be they stock or not.
>
> This is Samuel
Mercedes Im only 17. (Forgive the fact that this is a
> teenagers outlook,
maybe my feelings will change as I get
older.............
> maybe
not.)
> Yes in the end I came out fine, nothing happened to me but Im
giving
credit
> were I think its due.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:10:04
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fallen Warrior (all my fault)
My friend recently wrecked his
talon, he didn't talk for like 2 days after
words, he was pretty happy when
insurance paid up, however I think it's like
replacing a pet, its a
replacement, but not quite the same. Insurance was
enough to buy another
talon. By the way I really like this quote from ya
"Never abused it when I
didn't have to" hehe.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member
#4909
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:13:41
-0600
From: "Kyle Call" <
redcelicagt@cableone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS 3S
> I know that both
cars are considered Grand Touring coupes
The VR-4 is considered Grand Touring
Oblingato, whatever Oblingato means :-)
> The 2JZ (i know my
fast and furious) had valve timing and a few other
goodies-its a more
>
modern engine.
The 2JZ-GTE (turbo) and 2JZ-GE (non turbo)
were only VVT-i (no L on this
model) in 1998 and 1999 in Japan....There were
no american model turbo
supras with VVT-i. It only became "more modern" in
'98.
> It doesnt have all wheel drive or steering or active aero. .
u
> guys kno the list, so its lighter.
The Engineers
of the Supra realized their fault when their new
supermodel turned out to be
fat. They put her on a diet. Origionally, Toyota
had plans for dual exhaust,
more soundproofing, an active spoiler, and more
little gizmos. All of that
had to go. ( it saved 350 pounds) The
engineers at
Mitsubishi didn't know what Toyota had in the works 3 years
before the MKIV
came out, so they didnt see the problem with making a heavy
car
> I
just think its comparing apples to oranges.
They're in the same class. 3
Litre, Twin Turbo, Both relatively heavy. both
with ~320 HP.
> The
Supra owner just has to pray that its not wet out when he gets
next
to
> you at the light. . .
Very
true.
Kyle Call
93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:34:49
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Best Size Wheels
What is the best size wheel performance wise and
why? I've been in
numerous debates and I have no idea what to
say. Thanks.
- -Brad
1997 Caracas Red VR-4
13.505@103.631999 Front End, Headlights
& Spoiler, 19" Axis Se7en wheels wrapped with
Toyo T1-S Proxes
245/35ZR19, DN Performance Intercooler & Intake Pipes,
Magnecor KV85 Plug
Wires, Blitz Supersound BOV, Apex'i AVC-R, BOZZ Speed
Dual Cannon Exhaust,
Indiglo Gauge Faces, GReddy Electronic Gauges,
Kenwood Z828 Receiver, 4-8"
Diamond Audio Subwoofers powered by a
Eclipse 33230 amp & Boston Acoustic
6x9s
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:50:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Smaller diameters..keeps the mass
closest to the hub..and will be a
stronger wheel as well.
On Tue, 18
Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay wrote:
> What is the best size wheel
performance wise and why? I've been in
> numerous debates and I have
no idea what to say. Thanks.
>
> -Brad
> 1997 Caracas
Red VR-4
>
13.505@103.63> 1999
Front End, Headlights & Spoiler, 19" Axis Se7en wheels wrapped with
>
Toyo T1-S Proxes 245/35ZR19, DN Performance Intercooler & Intake
Pipes,
> Magnecor KV85 Plug Wires, Blitz Supersound BOV, Apex'i AVC-R,
BOZZ Speed
> Dual Cannon Exhaust, Indiglo Gauge Faces, GReddy Electronic
Gauges,
> Kenwood Z828 Receiver, 4-8" Diamond Audio Subwoofers powered by
a
> Eclipse 33230 amp & Boston Acoustic 6x9s
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 15:06:24
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stereo questions
> Is this a stock setup? Not sure what
the stock deal is with the rear
> facing
> speakers.
[Willis,
Charles E.] Hard to tell. Sounds like it. How about
a
picture?
> Also, is there a rear bar on the stock cars between
the towers to
> support the rear seat backs? Or is this custom convertible
stuff?
[Willis, Charles E.] Maybe you are talking about the
retractable
luggage compartment cover? It really doesn't suppor tthe
rear seat backs.
> Finally, what's the small circular gizmo in the end
of the airvent on the
> passengers side. I thought it was a tiny tweeter
but there is no driver's
> side equivalent. [Willis, Charles
E.] How about a picture?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 01:47:19
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Larger diameter. Better handling
and larger contact patch (just as an
alternate view). We had that discussion
in the past and did not reach any
consensus.
Practical considerations
often overshadow all other preferences.
Philip
At 01:50 6/19/2002,
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>Smaller diameters..keeps the mass closest to the
hub..and will be a
>stronger wheel as well.
>
>On Tue, 18 Jun
2002, Bradford J. Gay wrote:
>
> > What is the best size wheel
performance wise and why? I've been in
> > numerous debates and I
have no idea what to say. Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:04:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
He asked about performance
however..and no, I dont think a larger diameter
handles better at
all.
The width of your patch is whats important..you can recover that on
a 17"
wheel pretty easily.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2002, Philip V. Glazatov
wrote:
> Larger diameter. Better handling and larger contact patch
(just as an
> alternate view). We had that discussion in the past and did
not reach any
> consensus.
>
> Practical considerations
often overshadow all other preferences.
>
> Philip
>
>
At 01:50 6/19/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >Smaller diameters..keeps the
mass closest to the hub..and will be a
> >stronger wheel as
well.
> >
> >On Tue, 18 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay
wrote:
> >
> > > What is the best size wheel performance
wise and why? I've been in
> > > numerous debates and I have
no idea what to say. Thanks.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of
cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 00:01:08
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Basically my understanding is
if you do autocrossing or occasionally enjoy
turning your wheel get large
wheels with small sidewall tires. If you really
enjoy going in a straight
line get a small diameter wheel and a larger tire
(allows for lots of things
that are good in straight away)
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member
#4909
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: "3SRacers"
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
team3S@team3s.com>
Cc: "Team3S"
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 18, 2002 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size
Wheels
> Larger diameter. Better handling and larger contact patch
(just as an
> alternate view). We had that discussion in the past and did
not reach any
> consensus.
>
> Practical considerations often
overshadow all other preferences.
>
> Philip
>
> At
01:50 6/19/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >Smaller diameters..keeps the
mass closest to the hub..and will be a
> >stronger wheel as
well.
> >
> >On Tue, 18 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay
wrote:
> >
> > > What is the best size wheel performance
wise and why? I've been in
> > > numerous debates and I have
no idea what to say. Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:09:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Umm...no.
AutoXers
want the smallest diameter wheels they can get..and as wide as
the rules/car
allow
Straight line stuff benefits from both..just
depends.(tm)
The closer you get the mass of your wheel and tire to the
hub..the quicker
you can rotate it and stop it.
The less overall mass
you have, the BETTER the car will handle as well.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2002,
Donald Ashby III wrote:
> Basically my understanding is if you do
autocrossing or occasionally enjoy
> turning your wheel get large wheels
with small sidewall tires. If you really
> enjoy going in a straight line
get a small diameter wheel and a larger tire
> (allows for lots of things
that are good in straight away)
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT
VR-4
> Member #4909
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
> To: "3SRacers"
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
team3S@team3s.com>
> Cc:
"Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Sent: Tuesday,
June 18, 2002 11:47 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size
Wheels
>
>
> > Larger diameter. Better handling and
larger contact patch (just as an
> > alternate view). We had that
discussion in the past and did not reach any
> > consensus.
>
>
> > Practical considerations often overshadow all other
preferences.
> >
> > Philip
> >
> > At 01:50
6/19/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> > >Smaller diameters..keeps the
mass closest to the hub..and will be a
> > >stronger wheel as
well.
> > >
> > >On Tue, 18 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay
wrote:
> > >
> > > > What is the best size wheel
performance wise and why? I've been in
> > > > numerous
debates and I have no idea what to say. Thanks.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 02:15:46
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
This is a futile discussion.
First, let's agree that a 17" or 18" are not
"MAGIC" numbers from which the
count starts. Larger or smaller may as well
mean smaller than 22" or larger
than 14".
Secondly, both too large is no good and too small is not good
either. If
someone follows the smaller the batter theory I would think he
would
downgrade his brakes to 1st gen or smaller, buy 14" rims and install
12"
wide low profile tires. He might also have to raise the suspension for
adequate ground clearance.
Thirdly, nobody had apple to apple tests
of our cars with different size
tires. Sports Compact Car tested some
compact cars and they thought they
found a magic rim size. But someone else
would repeat this same test on a
different car with different brand of tires
and they would get a different
magic number.
Instead of arguing, it
is far more important to understand what each of the
tire parameters does to
car's performance. Then tweak from there intelligently.
Philip
At
02:09 6/19/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>The closer you get the mass of your
wheel and tire to the hub..the quicker
>you can rotate it and stop
it.
>
>The less overall mass you have, the BETTER the car will
handle as well.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 00:30:24
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Why do you say smaller
diameter tires are better for autocross, that would
give you very little
control around turns, sidewall flexes a hell of a lot
more than wheels
do!
Well autoX would want larger wheel smaller tire because you get a lot
less
roll and flex when you have very small sidewalls, giving you much
better
contact and control around turns, however I will agree wider is
better.
For straight aways you want smaller wheels with larger tires because
that
allows more flex and torque of the wheel, giving you better '60 times.
Take
a look at pro drag cars they have little 13" wheels with massive
tires.
Watch when they slow down a drag cars launch, you can see the wheel
start to
turn, and the tire stays still for just a moment longer, so when the
tire
catches up with the wheel you get a catapult type take off. Not to
mention
the heat and expansion of those tires, but that won't be happening on
our
cars. Rotational mass is also very important, lighter is better. (Wider
is
good too, traction is always good)
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4
Member #4909
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Cc:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 19, 2002 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best
Size Wheels
> Umm...no.
>
> AutoXers want the smallest
diameter wheels they can get..and as wide as
> the rules/car
allow
>
> Straight line stuff benefits from both..just
depends.(tm)
>
> The closer you get the mass of your wheel and tire
to the hub..the quicker
> you can rotate it and stop it.
>
>
The less overall mass you have, the BETTER the car will handle as
well.
>
> On Wed, 19 Jun 2002, Donald Ashby III
wrote:
>
> > Basically my understanding is if you do autocrossing
or occasionally
enjoy
> > turning your wheel get large wheels with
small sidewall tires. If you
really
> > enjoy going in a straight
line get a small diameter wheel and a larger
tire
> > (allows for
lots of things that are good in straight away)
> > Donald Ashby
>
> '93 3000GT VR-4
> > Member #4909
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 02:31:28
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Some tire size guidelines (feel
free to add):
Wider tire - more traction
Narrower tire - less
parasitic loss
Larger diameter - holds direction better
Smaller
diameter - turns better
High-profile - more consistent grip and more
forgiving
Low-profile - better steering feedback and more precise
handling
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 07:14:27
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS 3S
Nope VVTwas not on the US
Turbo motors and was only found on the US 97-98
NA's not prior, in
Japan however the 97+ had ceramic turbo components and
this VVT that you
speak of.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Tue 6/18/2002 11:36 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS 3S
Im a little
confused-
I know that both cars are considered Grand Touring coupes, but
it seems that
they are 2 different guns aiming at the same mark.
Toyota never had to consult with another car company-mitsu had to, and
dodge
insisted that the stealth had a 17 grand entry level car-so mitsu
had to
consider that when developing the car. Also, the 3000GT came out in
91 as
competition for the Z, so it had to have more gizmos then the Nissan
did.
The
Supra at the time was an overweight car that wasnt as fast. So
Toyota had
time to see what the 3S did, and how it did it, and they realized
that both
cars were overweight. Of course its faster-its a newer design. The
2JZ (i
know my fast and furious) had valve timing and a few other
goodies-its a
more
modern engine. It doesnt have all wheel drive or
steering or active aero. .
u
guys kno the list, so its lighter.
I
just think its comparing apples to oranges.
The Supra owner just
has to pray that its not wet out when he gets next to
you at the light. . .
Sorry for the long letter
- -mike
97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 04:41:00
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
"GTO" Racing Class... ( WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS 3S)
> > I
know that both cars are considered Grand Touring coupes
> The VR-4 is
considered Grand Touring Oblingato, whatever Oblingato means
:-)
-
--------------------------------------->
It's an European Racing
Classification, "GTO", and the correct term
(Italian) is "Gran Turismo
Omologato". This class (in English) stands for
"Grand Touring,
Homologated [for racing]". ALL of our DOHCs (TT, VR-4, SL,
RT, ES, and
3kGT base 91-96) fall under the GTO classification. Only the
SOHC's -
the Stealth Base Model and the 3000GT Base (97-99) are really
"GT"
classification, simply, "Grand Touring" cars.
In other words, the
3000GT is misnamed. It's not a "GT", it's a "GTO"...,
except the SOHC
model...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:03:13
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manuals
To my knowledge there is NO Haynes or Chilton manuals
for the 3000GT.
Factory Service manuals are the thing. Vinny's CD version is
great (assuming
you already have the Service manual for copyright
protection).
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Andre Cerri [SMTP:cerri@intersystems.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002
6:39 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Manuals
>
> Are the CDs sold on Ebay worth the
money? If not, what are the best
> alternatives? Are the Haynes/Chiltons
the usual junk? Factory manuals?
>
> Thx
>
>
Andre
> 92 3000GT SL convertible
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:16:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stereo questions
Yup, Auto-climate gizmo to average the sun
coming in with the ambient
temp in the cabin. Right there in the
manual. The other important
gizmo is the one just behind the power
sunroof button sits in the roof
(on a second gen VR-4) or behind the sunroof
crank (first gen VR-4).
This one in the ceiling takes the temperature of
the cabin and averages
or compares that to the one from the dash (that gizmo
in front of the
passenger dash tweeter) and can tell if the sun is heating up
the car
enough to turn on the A/C or if it is overcast and just needs air
or
perhaps heat on the floor.
Nothing about auto-defrost options or
auto-dimming headlights on our
cars or auto-windshield wipers like the
Cadillacs have.
Also, the one in the ceiling has a small device in it
like the MAS does
(either sends a small voltage through there or some way
that air hits it
or something). I had to remove mine to install the
rollbar and replace
it when I was finished. I had to be careful as I
knew how critical it
was to the Auto-climate function. I've never seen
this item discussed
on the list but I cower to see how much that little part
costs from the
Dealer.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSent: Tuesday, June
18, 2002 16:29
> AFAIK (I think I remember reading this in the
manual)
> that little gizmo is a photo sensor that detects if
> it
is "sunny" out and directs a little more cold air
> to the upper vents
when the auto climate control is
> engaged.
Yup, that's exactly
what the photosensor does...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 07:35:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Yes..this is why im talking
in general terms..not specific ones.
Its the placement of mass that
counts.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> This
is a futile discussion. First, let's agree that a 17" or 18" are not
>
"MAGIC" numbers from which the count starts. Larger or smaller may as well
> mean smaller than 22" or larger than 14".
>
> Secondly,
both too large is no good and too small is not good either. If
> someone
follows the smaller the batter theory I would think he would
> downgrade
his brakes to 1st gen or smaller, buy 14" rims and install 12"
> wide low
profile tires. He might also have to raise the suspension for
> adequate
ground clearance.
>
> Thirdly, nobody had apple to apple tests of
our cars with different size
> tires. Sports Compact Car tested some
compact cars and they thought they
> found a magic rim size. But someone
else would repeat this same test on a
> different car with different
brand of tires and they would get a different
> magic number.
>
> Instead of arguing, it is far more important to understand what each of
the
> tire parameters does to car's performance. Then tweak from there
intelligently.
>
> Philip
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of
cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 07:38:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Then why dont I see many 18"
wheel equipped prepared cars?
You assume..that a smaller wheel would have
a fat tire on it. Study up on
your race tires..theyre not high profile
tires.
Smaller changes the overall gearing, less mass more concentrated
towards
the hub steers quicker, less mass in general allows the suspension
to
react quicker..etc.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2002, Donald Ashby III
wrote:
> Why do you say smaller diameter tires are better for
autocross, that would
> give you very little control around turns,
sidewall flexes a hell of a lot
> more than wheels do!
> Well autoX
would want larger wheel smaller tire because you get a lot less
> roll and
flex when you have very small sidewalls, giving you much better
> contact
and control around turns, however I will agree wider is better.
> For
straight aways you want smaller wheels with larger tires because that
>
allows more flex and torque of the wheel, giving you better '60 times.
Take
> a look at pro drag cars they have little 13" wheels with massive
tires.
> Watch when they slow down a drag cars launch, you can see the
wheel start to
> turn, and the tire stays still for just a moment longer,
so when the tire
> catches up with the wheel you get a catapult type take
off. Not to mention
> the heat and expansion of those tires, but that
won't be happening on our
> cars. Rotational mass is also very important,
lighter is better. (Wider is
> good too, traction is always good)
>
Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4
> Member #4909
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:42:00
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
I have a novel idea. Buy
narrower drag racing slicks. You can have the
same traction but much lower
rolling resistance to kill off those Supras
after you pass them to
60'.
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------
Being AWD..less is
best.
Reconsider drag radials..too much stick will break
things.
On Wed, 19 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay wrote:
> Okay,
let's change this up a bit. What is generally better for drag
>
racing. My current idea is to get a hold of some lightweight 17"s
and
> put some drag radials on with 265s (or if they work
275s).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:47:24
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
I agree with Phil here,
at BPU on the VR-4 I had zero traction problems at
the track with 245/45R17
BFG KDW's and I was launching at like 6K :O
To be honest every
launch I was worried about breaking something especially
with 110K on the
driveline (I slip the clutch BTW, rule one burn the disc
save the
tranny)
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 Currently under the knife
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[SMTP:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 10:42
AM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
>
>
> I have a novel
idea. Buy narrower drag racing slicks. You can have the
> same traction
but much lower rolling resistance to kill off those Supras
> after you
pass them to 60'.
>
> Philip
>
>
---------------------------------------------
>
> Being AWD..less
is best.
>
> Reconsider drag radials..too much stick will break
things.
>
> On Wed, 19 Jun 2002, Bradford J. Gay wrote:
>
> > Okay, let's change this up a bit. What is generally better
for drag
> > racing. My current idea is to get a hold of some
lightweight 17"s and
> > put some drag radials on with 265s (or if they
work 275s).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:14:24
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS 3S
I was told Oblingato means
limited (or unique production run).
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Kyle Call [mailto:redcelicagt@cableone.net]
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002
11:14 PM
To: Team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: WAS reaction to mods NOW mkiv VS
3S
> I know that both cars are considered Grand Touring
coupes
The VR-4 is considered Grand Touring Oblingato, whatever Oblingato
means :-)
> The 2JZ (i know my fast and furious) had valve
timing and a few other
goodies-its a more
> modern
engine.
The 2JZ-GTE (turbo) and 2JZ-GE (non turbo) were
only VVT-i (no L on this
model) in 1998 and 1999 in Japan....There were no
american model turbo
supras with VVT-i. It only became "more modern" in
'98.
> It doesnt have all wheel drive or steering or active aero. .
u
> guys kno the list, so its lighter.
The Engineers
of the Supra realized their fault when their new
supermodel turned out to be
fat. They put her on a diet. Origionally, Toyota
had plans for dual exhaust,
more soundproofing, an active spoiler, and more
little gizmos. All of that
had to go. ( it saved 350 pounds) The
engineers at
Mitsubishi didn't know what Toyota had in the works 3 years
before the MKIV
came out, so they didnt see the problem with making a heavy
car
> I
just think its comparing apples to oranges.
They're in the same class. 3
Litre, Twin Turbo, Both relatively heavy. both
with ~320 HP.
> The
Supra owner just has to pray that its not wet out when he gets
next
to
> you at the light. . .
Very
true.
Kyle Call
93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:03:58
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fallen Warrior (all my fault)
How funny you should
ask...
03/17/02, tons of pictures, diagrams, etc.:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/intro.html1995
3000GT VR-4, 39,400mi (near-mint condition)
My Baby.
Totaled.
No One
Else's Fault.
Not Cool.
Samuel,
You're OK, that's the important
thing. The rest is only money and
time ... or so you have to tell
yourself right now. Give it some time; you
WILL feel better about it
eventually. Finding a replacement helps a lot,
but don't rush into
it.
I assume you have insurance... make sure you are treated
fairly.
Yes, the accident was your fault, but you have a contract with
your
insurance company to pay for the damages when accidents happen.
That's what
you pay them for. Don't be shy about it; you should end up
with a
comparable car with comparable mileage in comparable condition with
your
only out-of-pocket expenses being your deductible.
For
reference, my car was valued at the high end of the book values
(over $22k)
and my insurance company's policy is (in the case of a total
loss) to also
provide sales tax reimbursement (8.5% where I am),
registration/titling fees,
and pretty much everything else you'd need to
walk into a dealership and buy
a comparable car. Hopefully, your insurance
company will treat you
similarly or better.
Another thing to note is that salvage value on our
cars is fairly
low. If you have the opportunity to buy back the hulk
from your insurance
company, you might want to consider it, depending on the
price, how much
free time you have, and how much of it was damaged in the
accident. At a
minimum, request the opportunity to retrieve all your
personal and
aftermarket items from the car.
As for what has happened
for me, I went 2 months without a VR-4 and
went through the agonizing process
of waiting almost a month for the shop
and insurance company to determine it
was a total loss. I bought the car
back and sold it whole for less than
I could have gotten by parting it out,
but a little more than I paid for it
from the insurance company. I found
another VR-4 in Arizona (I live in
Washington State) with 15k more miles,
but in similar condition. I
bought it for under $20k and, all said and done
(plane tickets to fly a
friend and me out, the trip back, 8.5% use tax,
titling, registration, fixing
a couple minor things on the new car, etc.) I
have a new VR-4 in great
condition with 15k more miles and a few bucks in my
pocket. It'll take
me a little while to install all my stuff on the new
car, and she needs a
little TLC (esp. the engine bay... a little dirty by my
standards), but half
the fun of owning these cars is "playing" with them,
right?
All in
all, a relatively happy ending for a really crappy incident.
Perhaps this
will give you some encouragement - I hope it does.
Take care,
-
--Erik
P.S. Technical content: my new VR-4 made a
conservative 265 ft-lbs of
torque at the wheels and 255 awhp with just a
K&N and a DSBC (R:54/G:4)
running 0.86kg/cm^2 (12.2psi). She
healthy, so bring on the mods :-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:03:45
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best Size Wheels
Well I was assuming that
whoever is going to upgrade their tires was going
to try and get the
circumfrance as close to stock as possible. So take
everything I said and
realize I was talking about close to stock
circumfrance.
Donald
Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member #4909
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Cc:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 19, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Best
Size Wheels
> Then why dont I see many 18" wheel equipped prepared
cars?
>
> You assume..that a smaller wheel would have a fat tire on
it. Study up on
> your race tires..theyre not high profile
tires.
>
> Smaller changes the overall gearing, less mass more
concentrated towards
> the hub steers quicker, less mass in general allows
the suspension to
> react quicker..etc.
>
> On Wed, 19 Jun
2002, Donald Ashby III wrote:
>
> > Why do you say smaller
diameter tires are better for autocross, that
would
> > give you
very little control around turns, sidewall flexes a hell of a
lot
>
> more than wheels do!
> > Well autoX would want larger wheel
smaller tire because you get a lot
less
> > roll and flex when you
have very small sidewalls, giving you much better
> > contact and
control around turns, however I will agree wider is better.
> > For
straight aways you want smaller wheels with larger tires because
that
>
> allows more flex and torque of the wheel, giving you better '60
times.
Take
> > a look at pro drag cars they have little 13" wheels
with massive tires.
> > Watch when they slow down a drag cars launch,
you can see the wheel
start to
> > turn, and the tire stays still
for just a moment longer, so when the
tire
> > catches up with the
wheel you get a catapult type take off. Not to
mention
> > the heat
and expansion of those tires, but that won't be happening on
our
> >
cars. Rotational mass is also very important, lighter is better.
(Wider
is
> > good too, traction is always good)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 11:11:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best sized wheels..and now circumference
It was just brought
up..so here goes.
Yes, even if tire diameter stays the SAME, where you
are placing the mass
of the rotating assembly will make a
difference.
Myself, Id rather be autoxing on 40-45series profile race
tires on 15s
than on 35-40series 17s..as an example.
On sidewall
stiffness. A sidewall -can- be too stiff for racing.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 14:22:24
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
I'm getting a lot of
"clunk" between gear changes and if I hit the gas
pedal hard or let off hard
while in gear. I've replaced the driveshaft,
u-joints, and carrier bearings.
With the car off the ground and the drive
shaft disconnected, there's
excessive play in the rear differential when I
rotate the flange by hand. And
with the driveshaft connected, there's still
play, but somewhat less because
of the transfer case.
My car has 145K miles on it, so I suspect that
there's wear on the gear
teeth and bearings that's causing this.
I saw
in the manual that the play, or backlash, can be adjusted. But it
looks like
the diff has to be removed from the car to do it. Has anyone
tried to make
this adjustment before? Is this a tough job that's better
left to a
shop?
Jeff W.
'92VR4
Belleville, MI
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:06:30
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
I was told this was
caused by the transfer case, is there any to tell
for sure if it is the xfer
case or the rear diff?
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 15:16:38
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
If you unbolt and
remove the driveshaft from the rear differential, you can
turn the shaft by
hand back and forth to see how much play is in the
transfer case. Then you
can move the mating flange on the rear differential
back and forth by hand to
see how much play is in the rear diff. In my
case, the diff definitely had
more play in it, and would "clunk" just by
moving the flange by hand. And
when driving, I can also hear and feel the
"clunk" coming from the rear of
the car
Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:28:59
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
Is the rear diff
rebuildable? Or is it a part that is better off being
replaced?
Matt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:23:05
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
Also check the motor
mounts. If you let off the gas while cruising in
fifth gear and get on
it again you can feel the motor shift in the
mounts. See if the front
one (right in the front right corner of the
engine bay ... the easy one to
see) is cracked or worn or something.
That might indicate how the rest
look.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 averaging 27k miles per year for the last
two years
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:25:53
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
The hypoid gear in
the rear differential could be adjusted, but this is a
very tricky procedure.
I would not do it myself, at least not the very
first time. The input shaft
could be moved in and out, usually by
tightening the big nut on that shaft.
The nut compresses a collapsible
bushing during that adjustment. A new
bushing is usually required for
proper adjustment. The large driven gear
could be moved side to side. In
the end, a proper contact patch between the
two gears must be maintained.
If the gears are worn too much that may not be
possible to achieve. The
patch is verified by using a special colored grease.
On top of that, it is
important not to exceed specified turning torques for
the gears in the
free state and in the assembled state. That is why
professional help is
usually required.
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------
I saw in the manual that the
play, or backlash, can be adjusted. But it
looks like the diff has to be
removed from the car to do it. Has anyone
tried to make this adjustment
before? Is this a tough job that's better
left to a shop?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:39:02
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: polished radiator brackets
Sometime ago, I had seen polished
upper radiator brackets for our cars. I finished touching up my engine
bay, and would like to add
these.
But, I can't remember where I saw
them. Does anyone know where I can get such a thing
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 14:28:25
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
My motor mounts were
completely thrashed. I went with the 3SX poly
mounts, and I also replaced the
carrier bearings, and it still makes the
thunk, I was really hoping that
would be the end of my mystery noises .
. .
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Wednesday, June 19, 2002 1:23 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Backlash Adjustment on Rear Differential
Also check the motor
mounts. If you let off the gas while cruising in
fifth gear and get on
it again you can feel the motor shift in the
mounts. See if the front
one (right in the front right corner of the
engine bay ... the easy one to
see) is cracked or worn or something.
That might indicate how the rest
look.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 averaging 27k miles per year for the last
two years
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 15:52:48
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: polished radiator brackets
http://www.manoj.prasad.com/DSC00043.JPGRgds
Moe
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT
List
Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 19, 2002 2:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: polished radiator
brackets
> Sometime ago, I had seen polished upper radiator
brackets for our cars. I
finished touching up my engine bay, and would
like to add
> these.
>
> But, I can't remember where I saw
them. Does anyone know where I can get
such a thing ?
>
>
Thanks
> Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 15:50:47
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS Assembly
I just arrived home from M&S Recycling.
Ray at M&S was telling me that they
have complete ABS assemblies for $200
with a 6 month warranty which beats
paying $2200 for a brand new one.
Since I remember a few posts a month back
of people needing this assembly, I
thought I would post this.
M&S's contact info is on the FAQ page of
preferred vendors.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 19:28:17
-0400
From: "Mark Waller" <
mwa11719@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Interior Trouble
Does anyone have the same problem with their
interior as I have? My doors and back panels are getting hot air underneath and
bubbling up everywhere! I guess I`ll have to take ``BISHI'' to a upholstery shop
if no one has a good idea to fix this problem.Rest in peace,fallen
warrior.Mark-94 3000GT </DIV>
<DIV>--- Mark
Waller</DIV>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#874
***************************************
