Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, June 17
2002 Volume 01 : Number
872
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 16 Jun 2002 16:41:27 -0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock Boost
What is the stock boost in our cars? I'm
hearing 9psi for 1G and 11psi
for 2G and then I have another guy claiming
much lower numbers. Help me
out here.
- -Brad
1997 Caracas
Red VR-4
1999 Front End, Headlights & Spoiler, 19" Axis Se7en wheels
wrapped with
Toyo T1-S Proxes 245/35ZR19, DN Performance Intercooler &
Intake Pipes,
Magnecor KV85 Plug Wires, Blitz Supersound BOV, Apex'i AVC-R,
BOZZ Speed
Dual Cannon Exhaust, Indiglo Gauge Faces, GReddy Electronic
Gauges,
Kenwood Z828 Receiver, 4-8" Diamond Audio Subwoofers powered by
a
Eclipse 33230 amp & Boston Acoustic 6x9s
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:42:50
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock Boost
You're right - 9/1g 12/2g
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bradford J. Gay
Sent:
Sunday, June 16, 2002 6:41 PM
To: Team3S; 3SRacers
Subject: Team3S: Stock
Boost
What is the stock boost in our cars? I'm hearing 9psi for 1G
and 11psi
for 2G and then I have another guy claiming much lower
numbers. Help me
out here.
- -Brad
1997 Caracas Red
VR-4
1999 Front End, Headlights & Spoiler, 19" Axis Se7en wheels wrapped
with
Toyo T1-S Proxes 245/35ZR19, DN Performance Intercooler & Intake
Pipes,
Magnecor KV85 Plug Wires, Blitz Supersound BOV, Apex'i AVC-R, BOZZ
Speed
Dual Cannon Exhaust, Indiglo Gauge Faces, GReddy Electronic
Gauges,
Kenwood Z828 Receiver, 4-8" Diamond Audio Subwoofers powered by
a
Eclipse 33230 amp & Boston Acoustic 6x9s
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 16:48:35
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k
Hi Alex,
When I did the Timing belt on my JSpec (to
gain the warranty) - I had the
front Exhaust cam "SpringBack" rather
violently - I thought for sure I was a
goner. But some friends told me
their experiences and none of them bent
valves, I too did not have any bent
valves - so I think you are all right
with yours (there could be exceptions
though - I did a compression test on
mine to make sure and it was
fine).
Good Luck, Rick
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, June
16, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: 60k
> Okay, I got the timing belt
off, everything was great - all the timing
> marks were lined up, the
sprockets didn't move when I took the belt off.
> Next thing I know, my
hand slips while taking out the water pump, and
> hits the right-most
sprocket causing it to move about 45 degrees. I
> didn't hit it that hard,
it was more like it was perched at a very fine
> equilibrium and once I
hit it, it just recoiled. I grabbed a socket and
> turned it back to the
mark, where it stayed, and then upon my next
> fumble, the same thing
happened. I'm rather apprehensive about turning
> one camshaft back and
forth like this. I've left it where it is until I
> put the tbelt back on,
but I'd like to know if I'm causing any damage by
> all this motion down
there.
>
> One other question - the timing belt tensioner had some
visible rust on
> the outside. I've long suspected that my water pump was
leaking, but
> didn't see any coolant when I took off the covers. Is this
a sign? Is
> the pump leaking?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:49:48
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k
Rust on that thing is normal, must be the type of metal, or
lack of some
coating... Anyways, the sprockets are ok to move some, no
big deal...
Just don't let them hit the valves hit the pistons... I'd
say there is
absolutely nothing to worry about, go ahead with your things,
and
finish... Everything will be fine
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Sunday,
June 16, 2002 6:29 PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: 60k
Okay, I got
the timing belt off, everything was great - all the timing
marks were lined
up, the sprockets didn't move when I took the belt off.
Next thing I know, my
hand slips while taking out the water pump, and
hits the right-most sprocket
causing it to move about 45 degrees. I
didn't hit it that hard, it was more
like it was perched at a very fine
equilibrium and once I hit it, it just
recoiled. I grabbed a socket and
turned it back to the mark, where it stayed,
and then upon my next
fumble, the same thing happened. I'm rather
apprehensive about turning
one camshaft back and forth like this. I've left
it where it is until I
put the tbelt back on, but I'd like to know if I'm
causing any damage by
all this motion down there.
One other question
- the timing belt tensioner had some visible rust on
the outside. I've long
suspected that my water pump was leaking, but
didn't see any coolant when I
took off the covers. Is this a sign? Is
the pump leaking?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:39:52
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Well I
checked the piping and the waste gate solenoid and everything
looks to be
perfect. So is there anyway I can determine if one of the
turbos is
shot and which one? Like I said before, the transmission was
just
replaced less then a month ago and it seemed to be working fine
before
then. Thanks for any info.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow
Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:06:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Jet V-Force
Archive bait.
Junk product.
On Sun,
16 Jun 2002, Desert Fox wrote:
> Anybody tried one of these Jet
V-Force Power Control Modules? It is supposed
> to do ignition advance,
spark optimization, etc...
>
> "V-Force (Imports)
>
>
The JET V-Force Power Control Modules (PCM) uses the same computer
tuning
> technology found in JETS popular domestic tuning products. A
20Mhz RISC
> microprocessor optimizes the ignition spark advance and
recalibrates the
> fuel map for optimum horsepower and
acceleration.
> Modified ignition curve!
> Recalibrated air/fuel
ratio for maximum performance!
> Improved 1/4 mile E.T.S.!
> LED
read out!
> On/Off override switch!"
>
> Advertised 25-30hp
gain...
>
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT
VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly reasonable and
prudent
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.
Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:53:31
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Borla exhaust
The sound on my 97 SL is nice. . but i of course want more
power and a more
aggresive sound. It looks like my only option is the borla
catback exhaust.
Does any1 have this and recommend it? FOr almost 1000
dollars, is it worth it
or should i just wit till my stock exhaust system
dies?
thanx
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:07:36
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stock Boost
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
To:
"'Bradford J. Gay'" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>;
"'Team3S'"
<
team3s@team3s.com>;
"'3SRacers'" <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Sunday, June 16, 2002 6:42 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock
Boost
> You're right - 9/1g 12/2g
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Bradford J. Gay
>
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 6:41 PM
> To: Team3S; 3SRacers
>
Subject: Team3S: Stock Boost
>
> What is the stock boost in our
cars? I'm hearing 9psi for 1G and 11psi
> for 2G and then I have
another guy claiming much lower numbers. Help me
> out here.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
There's a range that Mitsubishi deems "acceptable"
when
testing. My factory service manual for the 1st generation
lists
(approx 2.9 - 8.7 psi) as acceptable range. If rounding up one
could
consider
the *max* pressure to be 9 psi. Why anyone
would only run
stock boost pressure is another question.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:03:29
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Jet V-Force
Well put.
I would have to agree.....
At
06:06 PM 6/16/02 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>Archive
bait.
>
>Junk product.
>
>On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, Desert
Fox wrote:
>
> > Anybody tried one of these Jet V-Force Power
Control Modules? It is
> supposed
> > to do ignition advance,
spark optimization, etc...
> >
> > "V-Force (Imports)
>
>
> > The JET V-Force Power Control Modules (PCM) uses the same
computer tuning
> > technology found in JETS popular domestic tuning
products. A 20Mhz RISC
> > microprocessor optimizes the ignition spark
advance and recalibrates the
> > fuel map for optimum horsepower and
acceleration.
> > Modified ignition curve!
> > Recalibrated
air/fuel ratio for maximum performance!
> > Improved 1/4 mile
E.T.S.!
> > LED read out!
> > On/Off override switch!"
>
>
> > Advertised 25-30hp gain...
> >
> >
>
> --
> > Paul/.
> > 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> > 98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> > formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:06:32
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Went to the dragstrip today...
I'm not sure what the magic amount is, but
but I asked Matt Monet the same
question and he claims to have hundreds of
runs with 110+ leaded and has
not had an O2 failure. It may have to do with a
few gallons of leaded followed
by many gallons of unleaded
????
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Cc: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Saturday,
June 15, 2002 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Went to the dragstrip
today...
> Not now..no..but keep doing it..and bank on it.
> On
Sun, 16 Jun 2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>
> > You are
probably right. But I want to know for how long the leaded gas
> >
could be used without serious consequences.
> >
> > I am also
interested in this because I once used up 10 gallons of leaded
> > gas
by mistake. Do I need to get new O2 sensors now?
> >
> >
Philip
> >
> > At 02:04 6/16/2002, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
> > >Is it worth the hassle or cost?
> >
>
> > >Nope.
> > >
> > >On Sun, 16 Jun
2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> > >
> > > > Dang!
These are excellent times for 14 psi!
> > > >
> > >
> What about the LEADED 110 octane. How long can you run it before the
O2
> > > > sensors or catalysts go south?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:42:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
Failure..is a relative
term.
Degredation..is a fact.
On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, fastmax
wrote:
> I'm not sure what the magic amount is, but but I asked Matt
Monet the same
> question and he claims to have hundreds of runs with 110+
leaded and has
> not had an O2 failure. It may have to do with a few
gallons of leaded followed
> by many gallons of unleaded ????
>
> Jim Berry
>
=====================================================
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
> Cc: <
team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent:
Saturday, June 15, 2002 11:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Went to the
dragstrip today...
>
>
> >
> > Not now..no..but
keep doing it..and bank on it.
> > On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, Philip V.
Glazatov wrote:
> >
> > > You are probably right. But I
want to know for how long the leaded gas
> > > could be used
without serious consequences.
> > >
> > > I am also
interested in this because I once used up 10 gallons of leaded
> >
> gas by mistake. Do I need to get new O2 sensors now?
> > >
> > > Philip
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race
them all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 00:14:46
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Two mods today
Today I broke my own rule of making no more than one mod
at a time. I
replaced my spark plugs and installed Denso 550 ccm
injectors.
I replaced my Denso Iridium IR-20 gapped at 0.032" for NGK
coppers
BCPR7ES-11 (one range colder) gapped at 0.043". They run great! No
spark
blowout at boost up to 1 bar. The motor runs crisp. The O2 voltage is
way
more stable than before. It says between 0.4V and 0.6V at cruising
speeds.
The problem that I had with O2 voltage dropping off all of a sudden
at
various times is apparently gone (maybe because of the new injectors or
because I reset the ECU?).
The 550 ccm injectors is another story.
When I removed the used plugs I saw
one of them was much lighter than others
- leaner. That is why I decided to
replace the injectors as well. The new
injectors dropped right in. I was
done in about 3 hours, then started the
engine and I hears ticking, almost
like soft lifters but quieter. The bigger
injectors are loud, I can hear
them! :-)
I set my S-AFC to -30%
across the board. Played with it a little and
settled on -25% because it
felt best. I think the voltage was at about
0.85V at WOT. QUESTION - what
voltage range should I target at WOT?
Another issue - and this one is
harder to figure out. I feel very slow
acceleration when I stomp on gas. The
O2 voltage drops to almost zero. But
when boost reaches 5-7 psi, the voltage
returns back to normal 0.85V and my
car shoots like a rocket. If that was a
carburetor car, I would say that
the accelerator pump is broken. But this is
fuel injection. Could we tweak
the enrichment during acceleration somehow?
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm#j2d.
I could not fix it just
by changing the A/F mixture, although I will try
again tomorrow.
Philip
Apexi AVC-R, S-AFC, S-ITC, Denso 550 ccm
injectors, LabJack datalogging
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:16:37
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Went to the dragstrip today...
Well, maybe I should have been more
explicit ---- he [ matt Monet ]
claimed that he encountered no noticeable
problems as a result of running
leaded fuel at the strip after several
hundred ¼ mile passes. Does that
mean the sensors were unaffected --- I don't
know, if there are no
detectable problems it's hard to assign a degradation
level to them.
Will an O2 sensor recover after a small amount of
contamination ????
I've heard yes, but have no way to verify that
statement.
If you want an answer go to the source --- talk to the guys
who drag on
a regular basis. I know I wouldn't run a couple of tanks through
my car
just to see but I'd have no qualms about running a couple of
gallons
through every month or
so.
Jim
berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Failure..is a relative term.
>
> Degredation..is a
fact.
>
> On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, fastmax wrote:
>
> >
I'm not sure what the magic amount is, but but I asked Matt Monet the
same
> > question and he claims to have hundreds of runs with 110+
leaded and has
> > not had an O2 failure. It may have to do with a few
gallons of leaded followed
> > by many gallons of unleaded ????
>
>
> > Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 04:30:01
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Leaded fuel and O2 sensors
> Failure..is a relative
term.
> Degredation..is a fact.
Yes, exactly! They'll still
appear to work, but they
get less sensitive the more you use leaded fuel as
lead
gets baked into the sensor. In only running about 10
gallons
of leaded fuel the entire insides of my exhaust
are coated with a layer of
lead particles - so the lead
content is actually pretty high.
As your
gas mileage goes down its a good indicator of
when to replace the
sensors. If you get below 15MPG
during regular cruising (no long WOT
runs and average
driving) then its probably time to replace at least the
primary O2 sensors.
I've heard from some DSM car friends that you can
kinda
revive them by heating the sensor element directly with
a propane
torch to burn the lead out. I haven't tried
that myself. I don't
even know if that's hot enough to
melt lead, but certainly not hot enough to
vaporize it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 00:38:41
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaded fuel and O2 sensors
Lead melts at very low temperatures.
About the same temperature as solder.
You can melt it over a kitchen gas
stove. Regular EGT's would melt it in no
time. I do not know if heating lead
any higher would vaporize it and leave
the O2 sensor as new.
I am
glad I won't have to replace my O2's for a while because they are
looking
good now after I replaced my spark plugs (and reset the
ECU).
Philip
At 00:30 6/17/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>I've
heard from some DSM car friends that you can kinda
>revive them by heating
the sensor element directly with
>a propane torch to burn the lead
out. I haven't tried
>that myself. I don't even know if that's
hot enough to
>melt lead, but certainly not hot enough to vaporize
it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 04:40:50
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Two mods today
> I set my S-AFC to -30% across the board.
Played with
> it a little and settled on -25% because it felt
>
best. I think the voltage was at about 0.85V at
> WOT. QUESTION - what
voltage range should I target
> at WOT?
I'd shoot for not less than
.90v on pump gas to be on
the safe side. .85v is pretty lean for pump
gas, but
on the edge with race fuel. Of course everyone's car
is a
little different and tuning by O2 voltage alone
isn't accurate or
reliable.
> Another issue - and this one is harder to figure
>
out. I feel very slow acceleration when I stomp
> on gas. The O2 voltage
drops to almost zero. But
> when boost reaches 5-7 psi, the voltage
returns
> back to normal 0.85V and my car shoots like a
> rocket. If
that was a carburetor car, I would
> say that the accelerator pump is
broken. But
> this is fuel injection. Could we tweak
> the
enrichment during acceleration somehow?
Somewhere in your fuel curve
you've got it set too
lean. I don't use the S-AFC (I use the EFI PMS),
but
if you can tweak based on throttle position or change
of TPS dial in
more fuel for higher loads. You need it
to jump up immediately when
you jump on the gas. The
stock ECU should still be providing an
"accelerator
pump" sort of function by change in TPS, and it should
be
more aggressive with bigger injectors so you
shouldn't be going lean unless
the fuel curve is too
far off.
Try shooting for .9v at WOT and see
if that's a better
throttle response when punching it.
...and be
careful. With fuel control comes the ability
to trash your motor very
easily!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 00:46:26
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Two mods today
At 00:40 6/17/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>Try
shooting for .9v at WOT and see if that's a better
>throttle response when
punching it.
I thought I did that already and I saw the voltage drop when
I punch it. I
will try it again tomorrow.
Thanks.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:08:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
Well..its all in the
explanation of what degredation means.
Probly slower to
react.
But..lead will deposit on it..and will affect it.
On Sun,
16 Jun 2002, fastmax wrote:
> Well, maybe I should have been more
explicit ---- he [ matt Monet ]
> claimed that he encountered no
noticeable problems as a result of running
> leaded fuel at the strip
after several hundred ¼ mile passes. Does that
> mean the sensors were
unaffected --- I don't know, if there are no
> detectable problems it's
hard to assign a degradation level to them.
>
> Will an O2 sensor
recover after a small amount of contamination ????
> I've heard yes, but
have no way to verify that statement.
>
> If you want an answer go
to the source --- talk to the guys who drag on
> a regular basis. I know I
wouldn't run a couple of tanks through my car
> just to see but I'd have
no qualms about running a couple of gallons
> through every month or
so.
>
> Jim
berry
> ==============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> > Failure..is a relative term.
> >
> >
Degredation..is a fact.
> >
> > On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, fastmax
wrote:
> >
> > > I'm not sure what the magic amount is, but
but I asked Matt Monet the same
> > > question and he claims to have
hundreds of runs with 110+ leaded and has
> > > not had an O2
failure. It may have to do with a few gallons of leaded followed
> >
> by many gallons of unleaded ????
> > >
> >
> Jim Berry
> > >
=====================================================
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:09:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded fuel and O2 sensors
Ya..old ricer's wives
tale.
On Mon, 17 Jun 2002
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>
> Failure..is a relative term.
> > Degredation..is a fact.
>
> Yes, exactly! They'll still appear to work, but they
> get
less sensitive the more you use leaded fuel as lead
> gets baked into the
sensor. In only running about 10
> gallons of leaded fuel the
entire insides of my exhaust
> are coated with a layer of lead particles
- so the lead
> content is actually pretty high.
>
> As your
gas mileage goes down its a good indicator of
> when to replace the
sensors. If you get below 15MPG
> during regular cruising (no long
WOT runs and average
> driving) then its probably time to replace at
least the
> primary O2 sensors.
>
> I've heard from some DSM
car friends that you can kinda
> revive them by heating the sensor
element directly with
> a propane torch to burn the lead out. I
haven't tried
> that myself. I don't even know if that's hot enough
to
> melt lead, but certainly not hot enough to vaporize it.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 01:13:56
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaded fuel and O2 sensors
The "leaded" race gas that I thought
was good for fuel injected cars says:
"contains PHOSPHORUS as lead
substitute". But then it also says: "for
vehicles designed to use leaded
fuel only". Guess not all leaded race gas
has lead in
it.
Philip
At 00:30 6/17/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>In only
running about 10
>gallons of leaded fuel the entire insides of my
exhaust
>are coated with a layer of lead particles - so the
lead
>content is actually pretty high.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 01:56:25
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject:
Acceleration enrichment (was Re: Team3S: Two mods today)
A question to
those who have O2 gauges and run stock and upgraded injectors:
When you
punch your gas pedal, do you see a drop in the O2 voltage?
I am wondering
if those of you with bigger injectors see a bigger voltage
drop.
Philip
At 00:46 6/17/2002, Philip V. Glazatov
wrote:
>At 00:40 6/17/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>>Try
shooting for .9v at WOT and see if that's a better
>>throttle response
when punching it.
>
>I thought I did that already and I saw the
voltage drop when I punch it. I
>will try it again tomorrow.
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 8:35:43
EDT
From:
rjhicks@mtu.eduSubject:
Team3S: 1992 RT TT FOR SALE
Well everyone, they day that everyone on this
list hopes never comes for
them has for me...I have officially put my dream
car up for sale! :(
The car is a 1992 Dodge Stealth RT Twin Turbo (Red
w/black leather)
It has all the good stuff (AWD, AWS, AC, CC, PW, PL, ECS...)
that comes
on an RT TT as well as:
- -Borla 3inch Exh
- -ATR
downpipe
- -TurboXS perf boost controler
- -Centerforce Clutch
- -K+N
FIPK
- -Autometer Boost Gage and Autometer Air/Fuel Gage in the A-Pillar
-
-Unorthodox Aluminum Underdrive Pulley
- -factory removable sunroof
-
-factory cd player
The car has been very well maintained. 60K service has
been done. Also
has new tires, o2 sensors etc etc...Very clean and very
nice
Have not had any problems with the car at all..but one of my
scholarships
for school has fallen through and its time to make ends
meet...
It has 68,000 pampered miles on it
$13,000 OBO
Also if
anybody could offer any advice on good methods for selling that
would be
appreciated.
I have pictures avaliable and anybody interested can reach me
off of the
list at
rjhicks@mtu.eduThe car is in the Grand
Rapids MI area now but could arrange to meet in
the Detriot area as
well.
Thanks
Rob Hicks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:00:16
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Acceleration enrichment
A voltage drop when "punching it." I
think this is a situation where reality
is quicker than the eye. When
staring at my ARM1 meter I don't see a
noticeable drop in "voltage"
(movement of lights in the red direction) (my
car: '92 TT with 550 injectors
and ARC2). Friend Dean's '94 VR4 with a VPC and
550 injectors does show this
and he is only partially successful at reducing
it with a GCC (I think it is
the GCC he is using). Anyway, I took a look at
the two datalogs available at
my web site.
Both show a distinct voltage drop.
Injector comparo
380 and 550:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo1.htm1/4
mile run:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo2.htmI
then looked at Kevin Schappell's logs:
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/TMO.htmHis
show a noticeable "lag" of the O2 voltage - meaning the voltage is low
after
he stomps on it, reaching a minimum after he is back to WOT.
I am not
sure what to conclude from this except 1) trust the datalog over
the
"in-dash" instruments, and 2) if acceleration isn't affected, it makes no
difference anyway.
The phenomenon is well understood: the lower
density air accelerates faster
than fuel does so the mixture tends to "go
lean" just when we "punch it". A
carburetor's accelerator pump tries to
compensate for this, just like our ECM
does. Our airflow signal conditioners
(AFC, ARC2, VPC) may be able to help
somewhat. But it may take an standalone
fuel managemnent system to best
correct the problem.
BTW, the
"acceleration enrichment" reported for our cars on the datalogger is
trash
(at least for the TMO and my car). It works fine on the DSMs though.
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3S@team3s.com>; <
mi3si@yahoogroups.com>; <
a23Si@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:
Sunday, June 16, 2002 11:56 PM
Subject: Acceleration enrichment (was Re:
Team3S: Two mods today)
A question to those who have O2 gauges and
run stock and upgraded injectors:
When you punch your gas pedal, do you
see a drop in the O2 voltage?
I am wondering if those of you with bigger
injectors see a bigger voltage drop.
Philip
At 00:46 6/17/2002,
Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>At 00:40 6/17/2002,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>>Try
shooting for .9v at WOT and see if that's a better
>>throttle response
when punching it.
>
>I thought I did that already and I saw the
voltage drop when I punch it. I
>will try it again tomorrow.
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 07:36:31
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SAFC knowledge needed...
It took a friend of mine all of 45
minutes to install it and the
wondering begins.....it works fine but now the
theory part of this
unit that this list is so famous for begins...
If
you increase the correction value does that inturn give more fuel
to the
motor? More air signal means more fuel right? Or do I have
this completely
backwards....more air less fuel?
TIA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:55:30
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Acceleration enrichment
> A voltage drop when "punching
it." I think this is
> a situation where reality is quicker than the
eye.
> When staring at my ARM1 meter I don't see a
> noticeable
drop in "voltage" (movement of lights
> in the red direction) (my car: '92
TT with 550
> injectors and ARC2). Friend Dean's '94 VR4 with a
>
VPC and 550 injectors does show this and he is
> only partially successful
at reducing it with a
> GCC (I think it is the GCC he is
using).
Now that I look at some of my logs, there is a lag
between
punching it (TPS increase) and O2 readings
going up. It goes by so
quick that it isn't visible on
my LCD display for the PMS, but it is clearly
in the
logs. The PMS does* do acceleration enrichment, and I
am
using that function so trying to get rid of the lag
is probably futile
anyway.
http://mjannusch.home.attbi.com/rf12.xls-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 13:12:23
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Any suggestions?
I still cannot figure out any reason why I am
only seeing .30-.32 boost
pressure in 1st and 2nd gear with the stock
system. I have looked
through the manual and I know it says acceptable
range is 2.9-8.7psi but
that is a HUGE difference. The watsegate
solenoid is working properly
or at least seems to be, I can blow through it
with 12v applied. The
piping looks to be all together. Can anyone
think of anything that may
have been knocked loose, or come undone when they
switched out the
transmission? I was surprised how little the service manuals
say about
the turbos and testing them. Is there a way to test the
turbos to see
if each on is working? Thanks for any
advice.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:36:10
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SAFC knowledge needed...
You've got it right: more air
= more fuel. Or more specifically, a higher
MAS frequency will cause
the ECU to increase the injector duty cycle, which
results in more
fuel. More fuel doesn't always mean more power though;
running too rich
can sap power.
Anybody with an air flow converter on an NA want to
comment on their
experiences?
- - Brian
- -----Original
Message-----
From: ek2mfg [mailto:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
Sent: Monday,
June 17, 2002 7:37 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: SAFC knowledge needed...
It took a friend of mine all of 45
minutes to install it and the
wondering begins.....it works fine but now the
theory part of this
unit that this list is so famous for begins...
If
you increase the correction value does that inturn give more fuel
to the
motor? More air signal means more fuel right? Or do I have
this completely
backwards....more air less fuel?
TIA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:27:11
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Any suggestions?
> I still cannot figure out any reason why I
am only seeing
> .30-.32 boost pressure in 1st and 2nd gear with the
stock
> system.
If you're questioning if your turbos are
having problems, one thing
to do would be to disconnect the wastegate
actuator vacuum line and
*carefully* do some high-throttle runs. Watch
the gauge carefully, and if
the boost starts going too high, shut her down
quick :-)
I've found the best way to do this is to start around
2000RPM in 2nd
or 3rd and floor it. If your turbos are good, the boost
will start to rise
and hit 15psi reasonably quickly, but not so quickly that
you can't get off
the throttle to prevent overboost. If you still get
0.3x kg of boost at
that point, then something is wrong with your turbos or
the
wastegates/actuators.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 12:17:19
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Any suggestions?
Or you might have a massive leak along the
intake somewhere, try doing a
intake pressure test, also I'm not sure, but if
your running the stock bov
still its probably so worn out im surprised your
getting that .32 of boost
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member
#4909
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Joshua
G. Prince'" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>; "Team3S
List (E-mail)"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 17, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any
suggestions?
> > I still cannot figure out any reason why I am
only seeing
> > .30-.32 boost pressure in 1st and 2nd gear with the
stock
> > system.
>
> If you're questioning if your turbos
are having problems, one thing
> to do would be to disconnect the
wastegate actuator vacuum line and
> *carefully* do some high-throttle
runs. Watch the gauge carefully, and if
> the boost starts going too
high, shut her down quick :-)
> I've found the best way to do this is to
start around 2000RPM in 2nd
> or 3rd and floor it. If your turbos
are good, the boost will start to
rise
> and hit 15psi reasonably
quickly, but not so quickly that you can't get
off
> the throttle to
prevent overboost. If you still get 0.3x kg of boost at
> that
point, then something is wrong with your turbos or the
>
wastegates/actuators.
>
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:19:57
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Any suggestions?
No I am running the Greddy type S blow off
valve, but I guess I should
check it to make sure it is working
properly. I guess I will need to go
get a hand vacuum pump to check
it.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ashby III
[mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 2:17 PM
To:
team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any suggestions?
Or you might have a
massive leak along the intake somewhere, try doing a
intake pressure test,
also I'm not sure, but if your running the stock
bov
still its probably so
worn out im surprised your getting that .32 of
boost
Donald Ashby
'93
3000GT VR-4
Member #4909
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:26:47
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Acceleration enrichment
I checked some of my old logs
with stock injectors and there is about 0.5
- - 0.7 second lag between the
throttle opening and the O2 reading rich (not
lean) again. You can clearly
see the enrichment lag on my old 3rd gear
pull datalog on my website at
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip
under
LabJack datalogging.That did not seem to be a problem at that time.
But
now with these bigger injectors I am noticing this much much more.
It
seems like the lag is about 1 - 2 seconds long and there is no
power
during this lag. I can clearly see a voltage drop on both my blinky
gauge
and a voltmeter. The lag lasts exactly until the boost reaches 7
psi.
Depending on the starting RPM and the gear, the longer it takes to reach
7
psi - the longer it takes for the blinky gauge to get back into greet
and
my car to start pulling again.
Philip
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
>I am
not sure what to conclude from this except 1) trust the datalog
over
>the "in-dash" instruments, and 2) if acceleration isn't
affected, it
makes no
>difference anyway.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:27:18
+0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
AIRBAG/ Clutch
Hello.
I have put 5-56 on the contact (white) on
the Airbag and it work for 2 days.
The 4th time i the SRS light RED in my
eyes.
Is the contact a usual problem.
Can i get the MD- number
for:
(MD for a Swedish Galant and Swedish prices.)
Clutch
plate. MD745934
160$
Clutch.
MD739223
174$
Bearing.
MD749998 50$
Time belt.
And the other two
belts.
Waterpump.
VIN:JB3XD54B3MY005231
Try to find this parts
in Sweden.
Its getting hot. Almost 30 Celsius.
Tried one of the Firm
whit T3S discount. =)=)
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 12:50:59
-0700
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How do you get to the O2 sensors?
I am having a hell of a
time getting to the front O2 sensor. I am unable to
take off the bolts to the
heat sheild that is over the tubo. The back one is
a pain but I can get to it
after I take off the intercooler pipe and heat
shield there too.
My
car is a 92 RT TT
Any Ideas?
Thanks
Greg Gonzales
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:02:05
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga continues
I went out and checked the
bov, it checked out fine. I check the intake
charge pressure control
system which checked out. I then disconnected
the wastegate actuator
vacuum line and found that the highest the car
would hit with the vacuum line
off was .50 in 2nd and 3rd and it
wouldn't hold .50, it held closer to
.48. I looked in the service
manual and I don't see anyway
of testing the actual wastegates/actuators
or the turbos specifically.
Does anyone have any other ideas to try? I
know if I take it to the
dealership, they aren't going to have any
better of a guess then me and they
will do all the same tests I have
already done. I am going to jack up
the car and look and see if I can
find any damage to the turbos
specifically. I know they broke the
downpipe at the flex section when
they placed in the new transmission,
so I am worried that they may have
destroyed on of the turbos when they
broke the downpipe. Anyone have
any input as to whether that is likely
or not? Thanks again
for all your great suggestions guys.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly
Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System
Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 1:27 PM
To:
Joshua G. Prince; Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any
suggestions?
> I still cannot figure out any reason why I am
only seeing
> .30-.32 boost pressure in 1st and 2nd gear with the
stock
> system.
If
you're questioning if your turbos are having problems, one
thing
to do
would be to disconnect the wastegate actuator vacuum line and
*carefully* do
some high-throttle runs. Watch the gauge carefully, and
if
the boost
starts going too high, shut her down quick :-)
I've found the best way to do
this is to start around 2000RPM in
2nd
or 3rd and floor it. If your
turbos are good, the boost will start to
rise
and hit 15psi reasonably
quickly, but not so quickly that you can't get
off
the throttle to prevent
overboost. If you still get 0.3x kg of boost at
that point, then
something is wrong with your turbos or the
wastegates/actuators.
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 13:11:03
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga continues
just a guess but if they
jarred the turbo housing enough wouldn't
that create a bind in the housing
between exhaust and intake? Maybe
it's a bearing? Either case sounds like you
have a case to rag on a
service manager to check it out for free......that
would be my next
move...if they admitted to breaking a downpipe I couldn't
see you
couldn't put a lot of force on the turbo itself.....SATAN SUCKS! I
am
not a turbo guy by owner but I took one apart that hit a wall at
60mph
an there is a small clamp that holds the two turbo banks
together. Seems like
a real good place for damage to occur when you
jar around the exhaust
system.
JMHO
bobk.
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
joshua@unconundrum.comTo:
erik.gross@intel.com,
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga continues
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002
16:02:05 -0400
>I went out and checked the bov, it checked out
fine. I check the
>intake
>charge pressure control system
which checked out. I then
>disconnected
>the wastegate
actuator vacuum line and found that the highest the car
>would hit with
the vacuum line off was .50 in 2nd and 3rd and it
>wouldn't hold .50, it
held closer to .48. I looked in the service
>manual and
I don't see anyway of testing the actual
>wastegates/actuators
>or
the turbos specifically. Does anyone have any other ideas to
>try? I
>know if I take it to the dealership, they aren't
going to have any
>better of a guess then me and they will do all the same
tests I have
>already done. I am going to jack up the car and look
and see if I
>can
>find any damage to the turbos
specifically. I know they broke the
>downpipe at the flex section
when they placed in the new
>transmission,
>so I am worried that
they may have destroyed on of the turbos when
>they
>broke the
downpipe. Anyone have any input as to whether that is
>likely
>or not? Thanks again for all your great
suggestions guys.
>
>Joshua Prince
>97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
>3SI#0136
>Microsoft Certified System
Engineer
>Joshua@Unconundrum.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:16:56
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby III" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Dyno Results
Today got 296 hp and 326 tq (that is corrected #s,
std was 220hp 240tq here
in denver on a very hot day), should be much higher
but I could only hit 6-7
psi during all the runs. I'm pretty sure it's the
BOV leaking as its making
a lot of noise. time to get a new bov i guess
:)
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member #4909
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:17:07
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga continues
I'd inspect the intercoolers
to make sure you didn't
get a hole in 'em from a rock or something.
Pressurize
the intake and listen for boost leaks. 3SX Performance
has a nice setup to do exactly that for $60:
http://www.3sxperformance.com/tools.asp...or
you can fab one pretty easily with PVC pipe and a
standard air compressor
hose connection. I made mine
slightly different than 3SX made theirs -
mine plugs
into the two turbo intake hoses rather than into the
MAF
hose. That way you can test the BOV at the same
time without putting
pressure on its output side,
(which would make the test invalid).
My
car did similar things when I first bought it.
There was a Blitz BOV
on the car, as well as the stock
CBV. The vacuum hose on the stock
valve was
disconnected, so it didn't have a pressure source
holding it
closed under boost. Probably not the case
in your instance, but just
saying...
BTW, anyone want to buy a barely-used Blitz super-sound
BOV? I suppose I should just put it on eBay.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:20:17
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno Results
> Today got 296 hp and 326 tq (that is corrected
#s,
> std was 220hp 240tq here in denver on a very hot
> day),
should be much higher but I could only hit 6-7
> psi during all the
runs.
You guys have an AWD dyno in Denver??? Where at? They
are so uncommon that we should start a list. :-)
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:42:44
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga continues
I am running the Greddy
Type S blow off valve which I took completely
out of the car. I put
pressure to the unit and saw the valve in it move
up and down. Just for
shits and giggles, I had the stock bov which I
placed back on and did a run
with. I saw slightly less boost with the
stock bov then with the Greddy
so, I am confident that the greddy type S
is working properly. I can
also here it HISS when it leaves off. Damn,
if the dealer did screw
them up, I wish I could make a deal where I
would buy new larger turbos and
them just install them in place...if
only the world were that easy. I
guess I will have to call Kelly
Mitsubishi and get them to check out the
car...this sucks.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@MEFAS.com]
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 4:37 PM
To: Joshua
G. Prince
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga
continues
how did you test the BOV? with the pressure
tester? If the BOV is
stuck open, then there still wouldn't be a
pressure leak to atmosphere,
but boost would not be able to be
generated. One of my friends had this
happen to him. What type of
BOV is it? TurboXS? if so, take it apart
and smooth down the
sidewalls with some emory cloth or fine sand paper.
Let me know what comes of
this.
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:09:24
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch/Tranny saga, part II
Some of you may remember my long post
a couple of weeks ago about suspected
clutch drag in my new '95 VR-4 (56k
miles, original driveline and clutch
AFAIK, BG synchroshift in tranny
(10,000mi/2 years ago)).
Quick Summary:
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
Symptom1:
Car creeps forward (flat surface) or holds
position (on very slight backward grade)
when
gear selector is in 1st and the clutch is
fully depressed
Frequency: intermittent, maybe about 20% of
the time
I
move the car forward in 1st without
shifting
before stopping
Doesn't Work: Moving the car further forward;
partially
releasing the clutch
Works: Move
gear selector to neutral
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
Symptom2:
Gear shift lever hard to get OUT of gear;
only occurs in 1st gear, clutch on floor
Frequency:
Coincident with Symptom1. Always.
Never
happens without Symptom1.
Doesn't Work: Engage/disengage clutch; move car
forward
Works: Pull the shifter a
little harder. A quick
jerk pops it loose.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
Symptom3:
Car is hard to get into 1st gear when
stopped,
selector is in neutral, and clutch is on
the
floor
Frequency: 10-20% of the time
Doesn't Work: Shove
gear selector harder into 1st; OR
release clutch pedal and re-depress it
(sometimes)
Works: Without moving
the clutch pedal (keeping
it
depressed), shift to 2nd or 4th and then
into
1st; OR release clutch pedal and
re-depress
it (sometimes)
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
I think
Symptom1 and Symptom2 are related, though I'm not entirely sure.
Symptom3 may
be an entirely different issue.
As to what may be causing the above
symptoms, here's what I can come up
with:
-
--------------------------------------------------------
A: Air
in clutch hydraulic lines
B: Bad clutch fluid
C:
Clutch pedal out of adjustment
D: Bad clutch slave cylinder
(seals?)
E: Bad clutch master cylinder
F: Clutch
disc sticking to flywheel
G: Pressure plate
malfunction
H: Something else (ideas?????)
-
--------------------------------------------------------
Comments:
-
--------------------------------------------------------
A: Just
completely bled the clutch system this weekend
with
brand new DOT4 Synthetic fluid; problems remain
B: See
A.
C: Will take measurements and compare to specs.
By
"foot feel," it feels ok. Engagement point
is
reasonable, and all shifting while moving feels
ok.
I never get any grinding while
shifting.
D: The car did sit a lot last year (previous owner only
drive it 4000 mi), so could the seals have gone
bad?
If so, would I be losing fluid? The
reservoir stays
full...
E: See
D.
F: Can this happen? If so, why? Is this indicative
of
a failing/aging clutch?
G: I'd
think if the pressure plate fatigued, you'd get
less
pressure of intermittent slippage, not my
symptoms,
but I'm grasping at straws here :-)
H: Something I'm not thinking
of?
- --------------------------------------------------------
Thanks
a bunch,
- --Erik
'95 Black on White VR-4 [KIA, SOLD]
'95 White on
Black VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:20:22
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AWD Dyno LIST
OK Here we go, Also if you
guys/gals could specify the type I would
appreciate
it.........
Milford
CT
AWD Dyno Jet (Pruven Performance)
Auburn
MA
LowBoy AWD (Adrenalin Motorsport)
Gaithersburg
MD
AWD Dyno Jet (AlteredAtmosphere Motorsports)
Lets
Do a copy and paste for this one so that way we do not put the digest
folks
through the ringer......
- -----Original Message-----
From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Mon 6/17/2002 4:20 PM
To: Donald
Ashby III
Cc: team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dyno Results
You guys
have an AWD dyno in Denver??? Where at? They
are so uncommon
that we should start a list. :-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 14:21:20
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lack of boost...the saga continues
.50 boost with the vacuum
hose to the waste gates off sounds like one turbo
is not working at
all. Maybe you have a seized turbo? Pull your IC pipes
off the
intakes and see if you can spin them with your hand.
If for some strange
reason, those mechanics pinched the oil return line or a
coolant line on your
rear turbo, it would definately seize.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:31:10
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 92 TT 4 Sale
This is not my car and I appologize for any
inconvinence to the list, but
thought someone out there may be interested in
a 92 Stealth Rt Twin Turbo I
happened to see today in the Auto Mart. It
claims to have only 9K original
miles and looks like it just rolled off the
showroom floor. No need to email
or contact me as this is all the info I
have, its actually at a dealership
1-800-998-8082 or 740-967-8080 car is in
OH. I guess I should mention thier
asking price is 19,995 that would be
about 15K off of when is was new I
think. Car is white and so are its
rims.
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:33:49
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 92 Stealth TT 4 sale
About my last post, I found a website
address for the dealership it is
www.dennydotson.com they also have another
stealth a 98 sl and a few supra
turbos etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:05:23
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AWD Dyno LIST
Milford
CT
AWD Dyno Jet (Pruven Performance)
Auburn
MA
LowBoy AWD (Adrenalin Motorsport)
Gaithersburg
MD
AWD Dyno Jet (AlteredAtmosphere
Motorsports)
Redmond WA AWD Mustang
DyneC (Dyno
Authority)
Taken from
http://66.114.152.24/about.htm "Dyno
Authority uses an
enhanced Mustang DyneC system. We use the MD7000 control
panel with a
dyno bed capable of measuring four wheels at once. This is
indespensible
for testing todays all-wheel drive vehicles."
Matt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:11:53
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 92 Stealth TT 4 sale
It goes without saying...a 98 Stealth
does not exist....I would bet
these numbers are fallen victim to either hook
and bait practices or
a newspaper/site that hase know spele cheker
:)
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
terflit@hotmail.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: 92 Stealth TT 4 sale
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:33:49
-0400
>About my last post, I found a website address for the
dealership it
>is
>www.dennydotson.com they also have another
stealth a 98 sl and a few
>supra
>turbos etc.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:37:14
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
Just FYI, apparently the spanner wrench has gone up in
price: $41.69. The
$16.80 is still current for the timing belt
wrench. Ordered my set today.
Shipped today, should have them in 2-3
days.
- --Erik
> MLR-MD998767 Wrench, timing
belt $16.80 (this is the tensioner)
>
>
MLR-6958 Spanner wrench $24.09 (this is the end
yoke holder)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#872
***************************************