Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, June 16
2002 Volume 01 : Number
871
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 15 Jun 2002 23:45:49 +0000
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hortin@hotmail.com>
Subject:
[none]
Hello
My airbag has a problem.
When it starts (SRS get
black after 7 seconds) i hear a "klick" under the
dashboard. After a while
it lights SRS.
If i clean the contact in the steeringwheel it starts a couple
of times.
Any suggestions. Kneekoob is what.
Can anyone check out the
price for a shipping a Clutch Set from USA to 97441
Lulea, Sweden.
The
price is of a clutch is 130-160$.
Shipping?
If someone get a good price
50-75$, total 200$.
I put the money to your account and you buy it for
me.
I try this way.
Tried the T3S discount but i havent get a anser
yet.
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:49:35
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help!!!!!!
Hunting down leaks is never fun. The only
sure way that I know to do it is
to degrease and completely clean the area
that you suspect that the leak is
coming from. If you have a steam
cleaner then you are in luck. If not then
you will have to buy a engine
degreaser and use lots of rags to clean that
area up. The area has to
be so clean that you can tell the difference
between a wet spot and a dry
one. Once you have the entire area clean, then
inspect it right way
with a flash light to see if it is actively leaking
while your car is
parked. If not then start the engine and take a look with
the engine
running. If you still can't find the culprit then if you have
the car
on jack stands (as opposed to drive up ramps) then have someone turn
the
wheels, pump the brakes, pump the clutch, rev the engine. One of
those
actions should show where the leak is then. If none of those make
the leak
show, then take the car off of the jack stands and drive it around
the block
once and jack it back up for a look.
Be sure to use all the
normal safty precautions. Accidentally putting the
car in gear with it
on jacks could be deadly.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi
SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro
341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and
gutted pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors,
Direct Hits ignition system, a front exhaust manifold
that doesn't have a
*&^#@! crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 17:02:45
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Currently I see .45
kg/cm2 boost in all my gears with the controller off.
This could be because I
have a free flowing exhaust now. I don't think I
ever checked it when
my car was all stock.
At this point, what I would recommend you do is
disconnect the AVCR boost
solenoid and reconnect the stock solenoid.
Check what boost values you are
getting with the stock solenoid. It
should be around .75 kg/cm2 in 3rd
gear. If it is not then you may have
a problem outside of the AVCR. If it
is around that number then you may
have a bad boost solenoid.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi
SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro
341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and
gutted pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors,
Direct Hits ignition system, a front exhaust manifold
that doesn't have a
*&^#@! crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 01:43:32
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
My experience with
tuning the AVC-R was quite different. I had problems
with getting it to
learn when my duty cycle was too low for the desired
boost. I had to
manually raise the duty cycles to enable the learning.
Right now my duty
cycles are between 70% and 80% and my boost setpoint is
only 0.9
kg/cm^2.
At 19:34 6/15/2002, dakken wrote:
>With the AVCR OFF I am
getting .45 kg/cm2 boost. Because of the way the
>system is set up I
doubt you can set it any lower than what the waste gate
>actuators will
allow. With a 40% duty cycle I can set boost anywhere I want
>it and
I get exactly what I set. With 70% duty cycle you should be
over
>boosting by a large margin.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 01:51:58
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
Dang! These are excellent times
for 14 psi!
What about the LEADED 110 octane. How long can you run it
before the O2
sensors or catalysts go south?
Philip
At 17:37
6/15/2002, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>However.... On leaded 110 octane
race fuel and 14 psi my best timeslip was:
>
>60':
1.849
>330: 5.301
>1/8:
8.185
>MPH: 86.08
>1000: 10.626
>1/4:
12.671
>MPH: 110.06
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 23:04:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
Is it worth the hassle or
cost?
Nope.
On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, Philip V. Glazatov
wrote:
> Dang! These are excellent times for 14 psi!
>
>
What about the LEADED 110 octane. How long can you run it before the O2
>
sensors or catalysts go south?
>
> Philip
>
> At 17:37
6/15/2002, Matt Jannusch wrote:
> >However.... On leaded 110
octane race fuel and 14 psi my best timeslip was:
> >
>
>60': 1.849
> >330: 5.301
>
>1/8: 8.185
> >MPH: 86.08
> >1000:
10.626
> >1/4: 12.671
> >MPH: 110.06
-
---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 00:11:23
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Data Logging
What data logger would you personally suggest using,
please point out
benefits of using your favorite over some other one. The 2
major ones I'm
looking at are pocket logger, and TMO.
Benefits of pocket
logger, small compact, view 12 sensor values at a time,
graphing
Downside
of pocket logger, requires a palm pilot. Palms don't have THAT
much
memory
Benefits of TMO: Monitor just about everything at once
with very high
sampling rate and large storage capacity (laptop has lots of
memory)
Downside of TMO: Heard there is no customer support, and the guy who
makes
them has all but dropped off the face of the earth, and requires having
a
laptop onboard to datalog.
Thanks for your help guys, one last thing
is that I CAN get a TMO if I
decide it is better then pocket logger, so don't
worry about not being able
to order them, or back order or
whatever.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
Member #4909
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 01:20:11
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Data Logging
I've used both and in my opinion the TMO logger is
easier to use and easier
to tune with. The software is very intuitive
and well laid out and in my
experience doesn't require any sort of
support. That's not to say that the
Pocketlogger is bad product because
the capabilities are the same; I just
don't care much for logging on the tiny
(and most of the times monochrome)
Palm screen.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi
Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD Duramax
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, June 16, 2002 1:11 AM
Subject: Team3S: Data Logging
>
What data logger would you personally suggest using, please point out
>
benefits of using your favorite over some other one. The 2 major ones
I'm
> looking at are pocket logger, and TMO.
> Benefits of pocket
logger, small compact, view 12 sensor values at a time,
> graphing
>
Downside of pocket logger, requires a palm pilot. Palms don't have
THAT
much
> memory
>
> Benefits of TMO: Monitor just about
everything at once with very high
> sampling rate and large storage
capacity (laptop has lots of memory)
> Downside of TMO: Heard there is no
customer support, and the guy who makes
> them has all but dropped off the
face of the earth, and requires having a
> laptop onboard to
datalog.
>
> Thanks for your help guys, one last thing is that I CAN
get a TMO if I
> decide it is better then pocket logger, so don't worry
about not being
able
> to order them, or back order or
whatever.
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT VR-4
> Member
#4909
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 02:19:01
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
You are probably right. But I want
to know for how long the leaded gas
could be used without serious
consequences.
I am also interested in this because I once used up 10
gallons of leaded
gas by mistake. Do I need to get new O2 sensors
now?
Philip
At 02:04 6/16/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>Is it
worth the hassle or cost?
>
>Nope.
>
>On Sun, 16 Jun
2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>
> > Dang! These are excellent
times for 14 psi!
> >
> > What about the LEADED 110 octane.
How long can you run it before the O2
> > sensors or catalysts go
south?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 23:30:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
Not now..no..but keep doing
it..and bank on it.
On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, Philip V. Glazatov
wrote:
> You are probably right. But I want to know for how long the
leaded gas
> could be used without serious consequences.
>
>
I am also interested in this because I once used up 10 gallons of leaded
> gas by mistake. Do I need to get new O2 sensors now?
>
>
Philip
>
> At 02:04 6/16/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >Is
it worth the hassle or cost?
> >
> >Nope.
> >
>
>On Sun, 16 Jun 2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> >
> >
> Dang! These are excellent times for 14 psi!
> > >
> >
> What about the LEADED 110 octane. How long can you run it before the
O2
> > > sensors or catalysts go south?
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 23:26:10
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
> My experience
with tuning the AVC-R was quite different. I had problems
> with getting
it to learn when my duty cycle was too low for the desired
> boost. I had
to manually raise the duty cycles to enable the learning.
> Right now my
duty cycles are between 70% and 80% and my boost setpoint is
> only 0.9
kg/cm^2.
I am starting to wonder if this has anything to do with the
way the solenoid
is mounted. I have mine mounted in a very unusual
way. I mounted it on the
fuse box. I have the hose from the Y
pipe to the solenoid. From the
solenoid it splits to the front turbo
and to the hard pipe that goes to the
rear turbo solenoid. Nothing is
connected in back except for the rear turbo
solenoid.
I know most
people mount theirs on the washer fluid bottle or somewhere else
in the
rear.
I have my boost sensor mounted on the passenger side strut tower
right next
to the air filter. I T'ed off of the blow off valve for the
sensor.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, a front exhaust manifold
that doesn't have a *&^#@!
crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 02:36:55
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
At 02:26 6/16/2002,
dakken wrote:
>I am starting to wonder if this has anything to do with the
way the solenoid
>is mounted. I have mine mounted in a very unusual
way. I mounted it on the
>fuse box. I have the hose from the Y
pipe to the solenoid. From the
>solenoid it splits to the front
turbo and to the hard pipe that goes to the
>rear turbo solenoid.
Nothing is connected in back except for the rear
turbo
>solenoid.
Could be that too. Your hoses must be really long.
Mine are no longer than
those that go to the stock solenoid, maybe 3"
maximum.
You are getting more boost than Joshua when the AVC-R is off
(0.45 bar vs.
0.35 bar). This means that your solenoid has to work less hard
to raise the
boost.
I need to turn off mine and see what I am
getting.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 02:38:39
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Nice to see I'm not
the only one having issues with the AVC-R. My
problem is lack of the
solenoid even working. Mine's mounted on the
passenger side strut
tower. According to the AVC-R, the solenoid is
being used 0.0%.
It looks wired up all right, so I can't figure out
what's going on. I'm
going to just redo it, but if anyone has any
suggestions, I'm open for
them. Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Saturday, June 15, 2002 11:37 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
At 02:26 6/16/2002, dakken
wrote:
>I am starting to wonder if this has anything to do with the way
the
>solenoid is mounted. I have mine mounted in a very unusual
way. I
>mounted it on the fuse box. I have the hose from the
Y pipe to the
>solenoid. From the solenoid it splits to the front
turbo and to the
>hard pipe that goes to the rear turbo solenoid.
Nothing is connected
>in back except for the rear turbo
solenoid.
Could be that too. Your hoses must be really long. Mine are no
longer
than
those that go to the stock solenoid, maybe 3"
maximum.
You are getting more boost than Joshua when the AVC-R is off
(0.45 bar
vs.
0.35 bar). This means that your solenoid has to work less
hard to raise
the
boost.
I need to turn off mine and see what I am
getting.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 07:51:34
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Seatbelt problem
Hi guys -
I have an annoying and sometimes very
serious problem on my car. I will
sometimes lean foward while driving
for whatever reason. When i return to a
normal position, My seatbelt
wont retract, it just stays limp. The only way
to fix it is to retract it al
the way into the track. Trying to accomplish
this at 65 MPH can sometimes be
a challenge. I have the seatbelt pads on
them, but im positive that
doesnt affect the belt itself. Does anyone else
have this problem, and how
can i fix it? I always thought that when you brake
hard enough the car will
pull the belts tight on you.
thank you for the help'
- -mike
97
SL
Infinity 3 1/2's,
6 1/2's,
K&N FIPK,
DN Intake
pipe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 10:02:20
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
I know in the
instructions they said it was very important to mount the
pressure sensor
with the nipple facing downward. I mounted mine right
off the side of
the metal battery plate. I installed the solenoid on a
flat area right
after the battery, close to the firewall. My hose runs
are definitely
not very long. When you look at the SOL monitor value,
have you given
the car gas while looking at it? I am sorry that may
sound dumb, just
wanted to make sure
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
[mailto:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 5:39 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Nice to see I'm not the
only one having issues with the AVC-R. My
problem is lack of the
solenoid even working. Mine's mounted on the
passenger side strut
tower. According to the AVC-R, the solenoid is
being used 0.0%.
It looks wired up all right, so I can't figure out
what's going on. I'm
going to just redo it, but if anyone has any
suggestions, I'm open for
them. Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 09:22:56
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help!!!!!!
Welcome to the mysterious VR4 vent leak. It comes
out the vent at the top of the tranny, and there ain't a dang thing you can do
about it. My brand new Mitsu replacement tranny started leaking 30 days after
the install, and Mitsu took it apart and installed a "fix" that lasted about one
day. They just shake their head at the dealership and say that they did what
Mitsu said to do, and the warranty doesn't cover any more fixes. I just gotta
live with the puddle under the car.
It gets a lot worse when you drive
the car hard, as in open tracking.
Rich/slow old poop
At 04:24 PM
6/15/02 -0400, Anthony & Susan wrote:
>Listeners,
>Just had my
transmission replaced. It's from Kormex. Now I have a oil leak
>which I
can't locate. I don't think it's the trans itself. The oil
keeps
>collecting at the bottom of the transfer case. I check all 3 plugs
and they
>were dry. I know it's coming from above but with all the nooks
and crannies
>I can't seem to locate it. O
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:44:01
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Seatbelt problem
You might want to try the Armor All trick.
Basically you pull the seatbelts
all the way out, then spray the very end
part enough to get it really wet.
Then just retract the belt. It is
supposed to run off the belt and hit the
mechanism and remove all the crud
that's built up. A harder way would be to
remove the rear seat back and
bottom and then remove the side panel. Then
you've got access to the
belt mechanism and can actually see what the
problem is, and clean it
up.
Best Regards,
Dan Johnson
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, June
16, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: Team3S: Seatbelt problem
> Hi guys
-
>
> I have an annoying and sometimes very serious problem on my
car. I will
> sometimes lean foward while driving for whatever
reason. When i return to
a
> normal position, My seatbelt wont
retract, it just stays limp. The only
way
> to fix it is to retract it
al the way into the track. Trying to accomplish
> this at 65 MPH can
sometimes be a challenge. I have the seatbelt pads on
> them, but im
positive that doesnt affect the belt itself. Does anyone else
> have this
problem, and how can i fix it? I always thought that when you
brake
>
hard enough the car will pull the belts tight on you.
>
> thank you
for the help'
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
> Infinity 3
1/2's,
> 6 1/2's,
> K&N FIPK,
> DN Intake
pipe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:48:26
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
I think I may have
a more severe problem. I hooked everything back up
stock, the way the
diagram shows on the hood and I am only seeing
.28-.32 kg/cm2 in first and
second. I have a dual turbo timer boost
gauge and the apexi avc-r are
both reading the same boost level. Is
there anyway to determine if one
of the turbos has gone? And if so, can
I figure out which of the two it
is? Thanks for any info.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow
Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
[mailto:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 5:39 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Nice to see I'm not the
only one having issues with the AVC-R. My
problem is lack of the
solenoid even working. Mine's mounted on the
passenger side strut
tower. According to the AVC-R, the solenoid is
being used 0.0%.
It looks wired up all right, so I can't figure out
what's going on. I'm
going to just redo it, but if anyone has any
suggestions, I'm open for
them. Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com [
mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com<
mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com> ]
On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 11:37
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
At 02:26
6/16/2002, dakken wrote:
>I am starting to wonder if this has anything to
do with the way the
>solenoid is mounted. I have mine mounted in a
very unusual way. I
>mounted it on the fuse box. I have the
hose from the Y pipe to the
>solenoid. From the solenoid it splits
to the front turbo and to the
>hard pipe that goes to the rear turbo
solenoid. Nothing is connected
>in back except for the rear turbo
solenoid.
Could be that too. Your hoses must be really long. Mine are no
longer
than
those that go to the stock solenoid, maybe 3"
maximum.
You are getting more boost than Joshua when the AVC-R is off
(0.45 bar
vs.
0.35 bar). This means that your solenoid has to work less
hard to raise
the
boost.
I need to turn off mine and see what I am
getting.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 12:17:56
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
I forgot to ask, is
there anything that could have come lose or come
undone when they installed
the new transmission? The transmission was
installed about a month ago,
and I have been without a boost controller
since then because I uninstalled
the HKS so they wouldn't give me shit
about performance parts hurting the
trans. Thanks again for any and all
assistance
Joshua
Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft
Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
[mailto:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 5:39 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Nice to see I'm not the
only one having issues with the AVC-R. My
problem is lack of the
solenoid even working. Mine's mounted on the
passenger side strut
tower. According to the AVC-R, the solenoid is
being used 0.0%.
It looks wired up all right, so I can't figure out
what's going on. I'm
going to just redo it, but if anyone has any
suggestions, I'm open for
them. Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 17:17:57
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
> Dang! These are excellent
times for 14 psi!
Thanks, I was hoping to boost a lot higher than 14 psi,
but something just wouldn't let it happen. I'll be
looking at the
HKS and testing for boost leaks soon.
> What about the LEADED 110
octane. How long can you
> run it before the O2 sensors or catalysts go
south?
My car doesn't have cats anymore, and probably a couple
tankfuls of leaded is enough to seriously degrade the
O2 sensors.
That's certainly the drawback. If I
would've known I'd be limited to
that low of boost I
would've just ran 93 octane.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:35:36
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Jet V-Force
Anybody tried one of these Jet V-Force Power Control
Modules? It is supposed
to do ignition advance, spark optimization,
etc...
"V-Force (Imports)
The JET V-Force Power Control Modules
(PCM) uses the same computer tuning
technology found in JETS popular domestic
tuning products. A 20Mhz RISC
microprocessor optimizes the ignition spark
advance and recalibrates the
fuel map for optimum horsepower and
acceleration.
Modified ignition curve!
Recalibrated air/fuel ratio for
maximum performance!
Improved 1/4 mile E.T.S.!
LED read out!
On/Off
override switch!"
Advertised 25-30hp gain...
- --
Paul/.
95
black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 10:50:44
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
> I think I may
have a more severe problem. I hooked everything back up
> stock, the
way the diagram shows on the hood and I am only seeing
> .28-.32 kg/cm2 in
first and second. I have a dual turbo timer boost
> gauge and the
apexi avc-r are both reading the same boost level. Is
> there anyway
to determine if one of the turbos has gone? And if so, can
> I
figure out which of the two it is? Thanks for any info.
.28-.32
kg/cm2 is extremely low for having the stock boost solenoid hooked
up.
That is abour 4-4.5 psi according to this pressure conversion web page:
http://www.ex.ac.uk/cimt/dictunit/ccpress.htmStock
boost is around 11 psi for a 2nd gen car and 9 psi for a 1st gen.
With no
boost solenoid and just the waste gate solenoids working, boost
should be
between 5-7 psi.
I would check all of my IC piping to see if any of them
are loose first.
Then check the stock solenoid to see if it is working.
Just try to blow
through it with no voltage, then apply 12 volts to it and
try it again.
With 12 volts applied, the solenoid should be
open.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, a front exhaust manifold
that doesn't have a *&^#@!
crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:43:24
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken piston/Ceramic Coating Pics
See the links below for
pictures of the broken Ross piston (wrist pin),
ceramic coated pistons, and
block after about 12K miles. I was surprised
how much carbon buildup
was on the pistons and heads, especially with the
methanol/water
injection. You can see the rod was heated and the pin
pressed through
the rod. According to the pro engine builders, this is the
easier
assembly method, but not as good as floating the rod on the wrist pin
and
using retainers.
[approx. 80-90K each]
http://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/wristpin.jpghttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/coating.jpghttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/head.jpghttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/head2.jpghttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/block.jpgRich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 14:52:04
-0400
From: "Anthony & Susan" <
jetbike@worldlynx.net>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Help!!!!!!
Listeners,
Crawled under the car today after
driving and more oil. After inspecting the
top of the transfer case with a
mirror it looks dry. It looks like it's
either the trans main output seal or
the transfer case main input seal. It's
a Kormex trans. & case. Has
anyone had problems with leaks after a rebuilt
has been put in? If so which
is most problematic? Please say the transfer
case. Thanx in
advance.
Regards
Anthony
93 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Sunday, June 16, 2002 10:23 AM
To: Anthony & Susan; Stealth Mailing List
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help!!!!!!
Welcome to the mysterious
VR4 vent leak. It comes out the vent at the top of
the tranny, and there
ain't a dang thing you can do about it. My brand new
Mitsu replacement tranny
started leaking 30 days after the install, and
Mitsu took it apart and
installed a "fix" that lasted about one day. They
just shake their head at
the dealership and say that they did what Mitsu
said to do, and the warranty
doesn't cover any more fixes. I just gotta live
with the puddle under the
car.
It gets a lot worse when you drive the car hard, as in open
tracking.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 15:35:10
-0500
From: "David Hacker" <
admin@01010110.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Tan Cloth Driver Seat
I am in need of a driver side tan cloth seat.
I
have looked everywhere and cant find a good one.
If anyone knows
someone who has one for sale I
will take it. I live in texas so
anywhere Texas,
Kansas, OK, New Mexico ill drive to pick them
up
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 16:44:19
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Waste gate Solenoid and EGR valve wiring help!
Alright, thanks to
your idea, I think I am making progress. The waste
gate solenoid works
how it supposed to. With the vehicle off, I cannot
blow through.
With the vehicle running or power to the unit, I can
easily blow through
it. So while I was there I checked the EGR valve.
Here is when I found
some weird things. The EGR would not let me blow
through it with the
vehicle on nor off. So I took the unit out of the
car and hooked it up
to power and ground, I heard a click and could
easily blow through it.
So I checked the power coming and grounds and
this is what I
found:
Waste Gate Solenoid: Has 2 black wires and one green
wire coming in.
With the engine completely off and key turned off, the blacks
are
grounds and I get nothing from the green. With the key turned to
the ON
position, the blacks become power and the green does not show up as
a
ground or power. With the engine turned over, the blacks are power
and
the green a ground. Now this seems strange to me why the black
would be
ground and then turn to powers. Usually everyone uses black
for ground
but maybe they decided to use green instead. I
donno.
The EGR valve with the engine and key turned off, blacks are
grounds
once again and the white wire does not show as a ground or
power. With
the key in the ON position, the blacks become powers, like
the waste
gate actuator wires, and the white wire is neither ground nor
power.
With the engine on, the blacks are still powers and the
white...still
has nothing. So I am assuming at the bare minimum that
the white wire
was cut somewhere and no longer a ground so my EGR valve is
not turning
on and not allowing anything through.
However, I am
worried that it may be worse then that due to the black
being grounds and
then turning to powers. I have looked through the
service manual and it
seems to state that position of the black wires
should be a ground, but I am
not 100% sure. It is on page 13a-169 of
the service manual. I
would really appreciate if someone could check
and see if their black wires
are acting as positives with the vehicle on
and negatives with the vehicle
off. If that is the case, I assume I
just have to ground the white wire
and the egr valve and everything
should work properly. I appreciate any
help. Thanks again
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 1:51 PM
To:
Joshua G. Prince;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
> I think I
may have a more severe problem. I hooked everything back up
> stock,
the way the diagram shows on the hood and I am only seeing
> .28-.32
kg/cm2 in first and second. I have a dual turbo timer boost
> gauge
and the apexi avc-r are both reading the same boost level. Is
>
there anyway to determine if one of the turbos has gone? And if
so,
can
> I figure out which of the two it is? Thanks for any
info.
.28-.32 kg/cm2 is extremely low for having the stock boost
solenoid
hooked
up. That is abour 4-4.5 psi according to this
pressure conversion web
page:
http://www.ex.ac.uk/cimt/dictunit/ccpress.htm<
http://www.ex.ac.uk/cimt/dictunit/ccpress.htm>
Stock boost is around 11 psi for a 2nd gen car and 9 psi for a 1st
gen.
With no boost solenoid and just the waste gate solenoids working,
boost
should be between 5-7 psi.
I would check all of my IC piping to
see if any of them are loose first.
Then check the stock solenoid to see if
it is working. Just try to blow
through it with no voltage, then apply
12 volts to it and try it again.
With 12 volts applied, the solenoid should
be open.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, a front exhaust
manifold
that doesn't have a
*&^#@! crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:56:30
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Waste gate Solenoid and EGR valve wiring help!
> With the
engine on, the blacks are still powers and
> the white...still has
nothing. So I am assuming at
> the bare minimum that the white wire
was cut
> somewhere and no longer a ground so my EGR valve
> is not
turning on and not allowing anything through.
That's how it is supposed
to work. The ECU controls
the solenoids by either linking the solenoid
to ground
or not. If you aren't seeing ground on the white wire,
then the ECU isn't trying to turn on the EGR solenoid.
> However,
I am worried that it may be worse then that
> due to the black being
grounds and then turning to
> powers. I have looked through the
service manual
> and it seems to state that position of the black
>
wires should be a ground, but I am not 100% sure.
> It is on page 13a-169
of the service manual. I
> would really appreciate if someone could
check
> and see if their black wires are acting as
> positives with
the vehicle on and negatives with
> the vehicle off. If that is the
case, I assume I
> just have to ground the white wire and the egr
>
valve and everything should work properly. I
> appreciate any
help. Thanks again
If you measure anywhere in the solenoid circuits
you
are going to see voltage. Those circuits don't act
like
positive/negative - more like a lamp in the middle
of a circuit - there's
voltage everywhere in the
circuit except at the ground (which is switchable
on/off by the ECU). Same setup for both the factory
boost control
solenoid and the EGR solenoid, fuel
pressure solenoid, etc.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 16:13:18
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Black leather seats for sale
Selling newly recovered (6 months)
leather/vinyl seats. The leather
used is very soft and supple, and
feels like what you would find in a
new Mercedes. The leather portions
of the seats are the centers where
your butt goes and the center of the
back. The sides are recovered with
heavy duty vinyl. The contrast
of the semi-gloss vinyl and the flat
black leather is a good look. All
new padding was used, and the side
supports are nice and firm. The
recovering was done professionally.
The seats are in like new condition,
except for one scratch on the
forward area of one seat. The scratch is
not visible with a camera, but
is about 3/8" wide by 4" long or so. It
is not discolored, but you can
tell where someones shoe or something rubbed
up against it too hard
right there. As far as the seating surfaces,
everything is still like
new. The only other flaw is the lever on the
side of the passenger seat
works, but the small plastic handle is
missing. I imagine this can be
replaced for less than $10. At any
rate, it has no effect on the
operation of the seat. The passenger seat
also has a small piece cut
off the underside of it, letting it slide farther
back than stock
adjustment allows. This was done to provide room for an
amplifier under
the seat, and has no other effect on its
operation.
Not sure what they are worth, but would like to get at least
$400 out of
the pair, e-mail with offers.
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 15:16:09
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: AVC-R again
Well, now it seems to be working all fine. Not
sure why it was being
such a butt, but oh well. I do have the anti-lock
light on,
however...But, I've got two more weeks until the next drag races,
so
hopefully, it'll all be just fine. Thanks for all the help, guys
(and
gals).
- -Brad
1997 Caracas Red VR-4
13.505@103.63 w/o AVC-R
1999 Front End,
Headlights & Spoiler, 19" Axis Se7en wheels wrapped with
Toyo T1-S Proxes
245/35ZR19, DN Performance Intercooler & Intake Pipes,
Magnecor KV85 Plug
Wires, Blitz Supersound BOV, Apex'i AVC-R, BOZZ Speed
Dual Cannon Exhaust,
Indiglo Gauge Faces, GReddy Electronic Gauges,
Kenwood Z828 Receiver, 4-8"
Diamond Audio Subwoofers powered by a
Eclipse 33230 amp & Boston Acoustic
6x9s
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:29:09
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 60k
Okay, I got the timing belt off, everything was great - all
the timing
marks were lined up, the sprockets didn't move when I took the
belt off.
Next thing I know, my hand slips while taking out the water pump,
and
hits the right-most sprocket causing it to move about 45 degrees.
I
didn't hit it that hard, it was more like it was perched at a very
fine
equilibrium and once I hit it, it just recoiled. I grabbed a socket
and
turned it back to the mark, where it stayed, and then upon my
next
fumble, the same thing happened. I'm rather apprehensive about
turning
one camshaft back and forth like this. I've left it where it is until
I
put the tbelt back on, but I'd like to know if I'm causing any damage
by
all this motion down there.
One other question - the timing belt
tensioner had some visible rust on
the outside. I've long suspected that my
water pump was leaking, but
didn't see any coolant when I took off the
covers. Is this a sign? Is
the pump leaking?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#871
***************************************
