Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Saturday, June 15 2002    Volume 01 : Number 870




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 16:59:35 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)

Have you used the gear judge and set your gears for the car yet?  I have a 5
speed but looking at your numbers, they look high for 1st gear.

Be sure to have the Relative 1 highlighted for your sensor select.

Your AVCR is in learn mode for your duty cycle.  It looks very high at each
RPM.  Even when my car was all stock, I never had the duty cycle over 50.
It is currently at 40.

I would also reduce your feed back speed or F/B speed to the base 5 for all
gears.  Don't change this unless you have to when your boost overshoots.

Your graph scale for rpm needs to be increased to 8000 rpms.

I would increase the speed scale too since I tend to go over 120 mph every
now and then.

This is how I made my settings to my AVCR.

1.  I made all the car specific settings that it says to make in the manual.

2.  I set boost initially to a safe .6 kg/cm2 with the base 40% duty cycle

3.  I drove my car in each gear and set the gear judge.

4.  Next I would run my car at WOT in 3rd gear to about 5000 rpms on the
highway.  Then I would check the peak boost level with the peak hold
feature.  If I over shot then I would reduce the duty cycle.  If I was too
low, I would increase the duty cycle.  I never made any changes larger than
5% at a time.

5.  Once I had good numbers for .6 kg/cm2 boost, I then increased boost to
where I wanted it.  It is currently at .8 kg/cm2 until I am done upgrading
my fuel system.

I never did rpm or gear specific boost since I figure that if I stomp on the
gas, I want maximum boost no matter what gear or rpm I'm at.  I may program
all that in the future when I run a road course, when heat becomes a factor.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines and gutted pre-cats.

Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
Apexi SAFC, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition system.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 17:07:33 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost

> I got the AVC-R installed, but the solenoid isn't working whatsoever.
> I've checked the vacuum lines and the electrical harnesses.  If the ECU
> is wired wrong, could that be affecting it?

Are the nipples on your solenoid in the COM and NO holes?

Also double check the way you have your vacuum hoses routed.  Just go to
Roger Gerl's web page http://www.rtec.ch and look at the Blitz Boost
Controller setup.

ECU wiring should not affect your solenoid.  You can tell if the ECU is
wired wrong easy by looking at your readings.  If your speed, rpm, throttle
and other reading are wrong then you know you spliced into the wrong wires.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines and gutted pre-cats.

Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
Apexi SAFC, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition system.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 20:42:14 -0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Window weather strip

Good evening all.
I'd like to share what I learned today when replacing my driver side outer
window weather strip- the one that keeps water from leaking between the
window and door.
The service manual says to remove the whole interior door panel. You don't
need to, but if you want to take it off, read Jeff 316 site on how to do it-
the service manual shows many more screws coming off than necessary.
To get the old strip off, pry off the interior delta panel- it is held on by
two pegs that slide into the outer delta panel. Be nice- I suggest prying
from the front of the car, that way any damage you may cause won't be seen
when the door is closed. The outer delta panel comes off with one screw
hidden underneath the interior delta panel. One screw at each end of the
door fastens the strip, between is by a compression type fitting running the
length of the strip. These screws are underneath the big rubber door seals-
no problem to get to. Once the screws are out, start pulling up on the rear
end of the strip, and eventually it will start to pop off the door.
Getting the new one on is a pain. As usual, Mitsu didn't pack the new one in
anything but a bag, so it was bent. I tried to straighten it to better
resemble the door and kinked it. So, be nice because it is made of really
thin metal. Then, just lay the new strip on the rail that it goes on and
start to push down- I went equal to both ends instead of working from one
end to the other. It takes a lot of force, so I closed the door and raised
the window. You'll eventually get it to pop on and seat all the way and
match the screw-holes. Mine doesn't seal against the window in all places
and I am hoping that a day in the NM sun will get it to warp and seal
against the window.
If you do elect to take off the interior door panel, note there are several
pieces of metal along the top of the panel that hook onto raised portions
along the top of the door. The panel would rather not go onto these raised
portions, but doesn't seal against the window. Keep that in mind- if it goes
on real easy, you missed something. Also, like Jeff's site mentions, there
is one big peg on the bottom of the panel that hooks onto the door- don't
miss that.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Hopefully someone whose weather
strip needs replacing might find this message helpful.

Have fun,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:41:12 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Weight question

Power driver's seat is 60# and non-power passenger seat is 40#.

I think someone was making a list of all the parts and their weight
pulled out of a car sometime back in the archives.  I think Geoff and
Arty maybe on the "project" cars weighed things too.

Yes there is a lot of weight in the interior carpeting.  Remember, this
is a touring car (GTO) and not some flimsy lightweight.  I find the
weight to be a bonus on the Interstate at 80 mph when a 40 mph crosswind
hits.  All cars shudder and slow and swerve.  Not me.  I keep right on
straight ahead.

Instead of being penalized by the weight I look for the ways it is a
help to me.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry B.
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 19:42
 
I can answer alot of this question. first off the drivers seat, ( if you
ahve full mechanical seats) weights 70-80 pounds, cannot remember the
exact.
if you own a all wheel drive you have 2 times the axels, transfer case,
all
wheel steering,, if you have it adds a second so called rack in the
rear.
talking to a few friends that work at dodge said that there are like 4
layers of sound proofing and padding and carpet on the floor, Do not
know
what the exact weight is but he said approx.. 150 + of it so there are a
few
things you can think about,, then go take a look at yoru car and really
think of all the small things that you wouldn't think of seeing.....

Jerry  93 Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 23:28:39 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is this spark blowout?

 >My PocketLog shows WOT, the o2 sensor falls off from
 >..94V, then injectors go to 0ms momentarily, but there
 >is only like 1-2 counts of knock.

Welcome to the fuel cutoff!
(You forgot to upgrage your fuel system)

 >AVC-R, Alky injection, K&N, HKS exhaust, SSBOV, and
 >heavy foot are my relevant mods

Need to gowngrade that foot until you get the fuel system up to snuff!

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 13:32:24 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R

Just hook up the valve in between the red marked line comming from the
y-pipe and your ok. Have a look on my 3000GT pages under www.rtec.ch and
check out the DSBC Installation Page that is very similar.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


At 02:40 12.06.2002 -0700, Bradford J. Gay wrote:
>HELP!
>
>My friend and I are haplessly trying to install the AVC-R and it really
>isn't working.  We thought we had it figured out per the instructions,
>but then it clicked that the car has two wastegates and two of just
>about everything else the manual tells us to hook it up to.  Can anyone
>please tell me how to install it step-by-step?  Any help is appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>-Brad
>  97 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 21:28:36 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question

You most likely won't hit your set boost value in 1st gear, especially if
you have upgraded turbos.  1st gear accelerations reach redline so quick
that your turbos won't spool up quickly enough.

You should really consider enabling "learn" mode for 2nd & 3rd gears.  The
unit will then adjust the duty cycle values correctly for each RPM.  It will
then maintain correct values as atmospheric conditions change.

A very good graph is "values vs time" while monitoring boost and solenoid
values.  At WOT, you should see the solenoid immediately jump to 90% duty.
As boost nears your set value, the solenoid duty cycle will lower and trace
a curve to keep boost rising until your set value is achieved.

This unit is really amazing if you take a little time to set it up
correctly.

Good luck,
Ken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
To: <team3s@team3s.com>; <dblai@allstate.com>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 11:19 AM
Subject: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question


> Hey, I wanted to first off thank everyone for their help with the AVC-R,
> I really appreciated it and it is finally in.  Man, it is SO much nicer
> to use then the HKS EVC.  Anyway, Dave Black had emailed me with the
> settings he had used for his.  I set it up with all those settings but
> in first gear I am only getting .62 2nd .70 and 3rd .75 or so.  I
> haven't fully opened it up in the higher gears cause I was trying to set
> everything up.  I am going to list all the parameters and see if anyone
> can give me any ideas as to why I am not at .95.  Thanks again

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 22:05:22 -1000
From: "Ben Domingo" <ben91vr4@lycos.com>
Subject: Team3S: (No Subject)

Aloha everyone..Here is my problem my car grinds in 2nd and 4th and won't slip into 3rd at all. Any suggestion on what might be the problem?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 04:39:50 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: (No Subject)

Your synchros are gone/going. Not shifting into gear is (if I remember
correctly) a possibly broken shift fork. This is more or less of a
common issue with our cars.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Ben Domingo
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 3:05 AM
To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: (No Subject)

Aloha everyone..Here is my problem my car grinds in 2nd and 4th and
won't slip into 3rd at all. Any suggestion on what might be the problem?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 02:39:00 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: PCV Breather

Hey all,

I've looked all over the place since I've seen so much discussion about this
issue. My oil filler cap leaks and I'm pretty sure it's the PCV valve since
the damn thing looks rusty and old. While I'm here, I'm sick of letting that
oil get sucked into my intake, so I'm planning on capping off the intake and
using a breather filter. Is there any problem with *not* having a vacuum
sucking on the crankcase that I should be aware of? And also, should I leave
the PCV Valve on and connect its output to the breather, or just skip the
valve altogether and find a "screw-in" breather/coupler?  (also I could just
drill through the PCV Valve springs and that would make it a convenient
screw-in coupler)  Thanks in advance!

Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt

my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 18:35:58 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PCV Breather

No breather recommended.

www.et-performance.com/whats_new.html#turbo

It's the best solution so far to prevent leaking. A good insurance.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


> I've looked all over the place since I've seen so much discussion about
this
> issue. My oil filler cap leaks and I'm pretty sure it's the PCV valve
since
> the damn thing looks rusty and old. While I'm here, I'm sick of letting
that
> oil get sucked into my intake, so I'm planning on capping off the intake
and
> using a breather filter. Is there any problem with *not* having a vacuum
> sucking on the crankcase that I should be aware of? And also, should I
leave
> the PCV Valve on and connect its output to the breather, or just skip the
> valve altogether and find a "screw-in" breather/coupler?  (also I could
just
> drill through the PCV Valve springs and that would make it a convenient
> screw-in coupler)  Thanks in advance!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 10:27:26 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Dell laptop (ideal for datalogging) for sale on eBay LAST DAY!!

Auction ends tomorrow!!! Current bid is $305. LOTS of accessories. Basic
info is Dell PII 266 MMX, 128 MB RAM, 6.02 GB HD, 13.3" TFT, 10/100
NIC+56K cell combo card, CDROM, floppy, carry case, 5 port 10/100
switch, plus more!

For all the info please check out the auction at

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2031131440

That needs to all be on one line. Picts are in the auction. PLEASE SEND
ALL REPLIES DIRECTLY TO ME OFF LIST. I am sure all the others would
appreciate it as well.

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:03:31 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question

I can't figure out what I am doing wrong and the manual is somewhat
vague.  I went an initialized everything so I was starting over from
scratch.  I put in that the vehicle was Japanese and all those settings
following the manual.  I then says to do the boost settings.  I put that
I want the boost to be at .95 and the duty at 70% since with the boost
controller off I was getting .35 and the manual said to set the duty at
70% if you are getting .4 and desire 1.0.  So I went an did that and the
manual says when I am driving it will learn the duty settings for each
rpm once a stable boost is achieved and the throttle is at 85% or
greater.  So anyway, I can't get the damn thing to learn the duty cycle!
I have tried and tried and it never seems to want to learn, I assume the
boost must just slightly fluxuate which causes it not to learn.  So just
to make sure the unit was working, I set my desired boost to be .40 and
lowered the duty cycle to 20 I think and ran the car, and then it
started learning the duty cycle because it was holding an even .40.  I
am still only getting .78 or so in 3rd gear which I would assume I
should be able to hit .95 in 3rd on the stock turbos.  I am open to any
and all suggestions.  Thanks
 
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [mailto:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 12:29 AM
To: Joshua G. Prince; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question
 
You most likely won't hit your set boost value in 1st gear, especially
if
you have upgraded turbos.  1st gear accelerations reach redline so quick
that your turbos won't spool up quickly enough.

You should really consider enabling "learn" mode for 2nd & 3rd gears.
The
unit will then adjust the duty cycle values correctly for each RPM.  It
will
then maintain correct values as atmospheric conditions change.

A very good graph is "values vs time" while monitoring boost and
solenoid
values.  At WOT, you should see the solenoid immediately jump to 90%
duty.
As boost nears your set value, the solenoid duty cycle will lower and
trace
a curve to keep boost rising until your set value is achieved.

This unit is really amazing if you take a little time to set it up
correctly.

Good luck,
Ken

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 13:31:32 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

Okay, I'm completely stumped.

I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.

I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact -
isn't that a little dangerous?

I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Alex.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Rivenburg, Pete
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
To: 'team3s@team3s.com'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

//Alex:

//WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
//tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when
you
//put
//it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn tool.


anyone try a strap wrench for this yet? I have used one on two different
V8's to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it down. works great.
I
haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so It's
great reading all the posts. you guys are a great resource.

93 3000GTSL stock.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:40:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

You have to appreciate the static friction on the bolt.

Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in there".  Its also
the reason you cant get accurate torque readings on a nut or bolt unless
its moving..and why head studs are better than bolts.

Have you applied heat to the bolt?

On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:

> Okay, I'm completely stumped.
>
> I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
> pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
>
> I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
> ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact -
> isn't that a little dangerous?
>
> I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Rivenburg, Pete
> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
> To: 'team3s@team3s.com'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
>
>
> //Alex:
>
> //WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
> //tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when
> you
> //put
> //it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn tool.
>
>
> anyone try a strap wrench for this yet? I have used one on two different
> V8's to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it down. works great.
> I
> haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so It's
> great reading all the posts. you guys are a great resource.
>
> 93 3000GTSL stock.

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 13:36:58 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

I haven't tried heating it, and wouldn't trust myself with a torch
anywhere near the car.

Do you think it's safe to get a bigger impact, or rather apply that much
force? I mean I really don't want to break or strip that bolt - if I do
I'm in for an expensive ride.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 1:40 PM
To: Alex Pedenko
Cc: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

You have to appreciate the static friction on the bolt.

Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in there".  Its
also
the reason you cant get accurate torque readings on a nut or bolt unless
its moving..and why head studs are better than bolts.

Have you applied heat to the bolt?

On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:

> Okay, I'm completely stumped.
>
> I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
> pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
>
> I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
> ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact
- -
> isn't that a little dangerous?
>
> I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of Rivenburg, Pete
> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
> To: 'team3s@team3s.com'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
>
>
> //Alex:
>
> //WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
> //tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when
> you
> //put
> //it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn
tool.
>
>
> anyone try a strap wrench for this yet? I have used one on two
different
> V8's to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it down. works
great.
> I
> haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so
It's
> great reading all the posts. you guys are a great resource.
>
> 93 3000GTSL stock.

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:45:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

Sure you can try bigger...got nuff pressure in your air tank for what you
already have?

On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:

> I haven't tried heating it, and wouldn't trust myself with a torch
> anywhere near the car.
>
> Do you think it's safe to get a bigger impact, or rather apply that much
> force? I mean I really don't want to break or strip that bolt - if I do
> I'm in for an expensive ride.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 1:40 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko
> Cc: 'Team3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> You have to appreciate the static friction on the bolt.
>
> Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in there".  Its
> also
> the reason you cant get accurate torque readings on a nut or bolt unless
> its moving..and why head studs are better than bolts.
>
> Have you applied heat to the bolt?
>
> On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> > Okay, I'm completely stumped.
> >
> > I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
> > pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
> >
> > I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> > apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
> > ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact
> -
> > isn't that a little dangerous?
> >
> > I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would be
> > greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Alex.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
> Behalf
> > Of Rivenburg, Pete
> > Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
> > To: 'team3s@team3s.com'
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
> >
> >
> > //Alex:
> >
> > //WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
> > //tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when
> > you
> > //put
> > //it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn
> tool.
> >
> >
> > anyone try a strap wrench for this yet? I have used one on two
> different
> > V8's to hold the harmonic balancer while torquing it down. works
> great.
> > I
> > haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so
> It's
> > great reading all the posts. you guys are a great resource.
> >
> > 93 3000GTSL stock.

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 13:42:35 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

The compressor keeps the tank @ 125psi and flows 5.5 cfm @ 90psi
The impact is rated at 5.4 cfm @ 90 psi
I set the tool pressure @ 90 psi and let 'er rip...

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 1:46 PM
To: Alex Pedenko
Cc: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

Sure you can try bigger...got nuff pressure in your air tank for what
you
already have?

On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:

> I haven't tried heating it, and wouldn't trust myself with a torch
> anywhere near the car.
>
> Do you think it's safe to get a bigger impact, or rather apply that
much
> force? I mean I really don't want to break or strip that bolt - if I
do
> I'm in for an expensive ride.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 1:40 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko
> Cc: 'Team3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
>
> You have to appreciate the static friction on the bolt.
>
> Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in there".  Its
> also
> the reason you cant get accurate torque readings on a nut or bolt
unless
> its moving..and why head studs are better than bolts.
>
> Have you applied heat to the bolt?
>
> On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> > Okay, I'm completely stumped.
> >
> > I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect.
The
> > pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
> >
> > I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> > apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
> > ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb
impact
> -
> > isn't that a little dangerous?
> >
> > I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would be
> > greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Alex.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:49:52 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: 60k tools

 If you're using an extension on the socket it will absorb a lot of the
 impact from the wrench. Make sure the pressure is at a maximum
 for your setup.
 
 I've had success with a breaker bar and the starter on other cars ---
 lock the bar against a frame piece or the ground and crank the starter.
 
 You're not likely to damage the bolt with a more powerful impact, you
 could break a small bolt but not anything as large as a crank bolt.
 
        Jim Berry
. =================================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > Okay, I'm completely stumped.
> >
> > I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
> > pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
> >
> > I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> > apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
> > ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact -
> > isn't that a little dangerous?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:30:13 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools

Woo! It's off...

Thanks all... I jacked the pressure up to 100 and kept it there for a
while - came off after a bit.

I was using a 12pt deep socket. That prolly deterred me a 'lil

Alex.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry B. [mailto:scorpman@optonline.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 2:12 PM
To: Alex Pedenko
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

As I said before,, I have had my crank bolt off 10 times in the last 2
months and believe me,, if you break that bolt taking it off I wil lgive
you
my stealth.. that bolt is hardened becasue of the stress put on it. get
the
bigger gun, do not use an extension for this will reduce the impact on
the
gun, use an impact 6 sided socket, shallow drive and jsut lay on the
trigger. it will come off. Like I said before i am a mechanic and do
timming
belts every day on cars.

Any more questions i am willing to help.
Jerry.
www.higherbeingttstealthrt.cjb.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:24:55 -0400
From: "Anthony & Susan" <jetbike@worldlynx.net>
Subject: Team3S: Help!!!!!!

Listeners,
Just had my transmission replaced. It's from Kormex. Now I have a oil leak
which I can't locate. I don't think it's the trans itself. The oil keeps
collecting at the bottom of the transfer case. I check all 3 plugs and they
were dry. I know it's coming from above but with all the nooks and crannies
I can't seem to locate it. On top of the transfer case there is a black
plastic ball and it may be the culprit. What is it? An air vent that if
there was to much oil in the case it would leak? The shop that installed it
seems to have done a great job. Has anyone ever had this problem? Please
help and thanx in advance. I'm using Mobil 1 15/50.

Regards,
Anthony
93 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:00:06 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:  Pulled motor - wasn't rod knock

Below is the cut/paste from my post on 3si, I'll post the pics there:

I thought it was rod knock for sure, turns out it was a broken wrist pin on
the one of the GTPro/Ross pistons. This was a built stage IV motor -
completed about 1 year ago. So - think there's any kinda warranty on the
pistons?  Not likely as it's a performance part.

The bearings are perfect, no signs of substantial stress. The last time I
had the motor checked, about 2K miles ago, the compression was great, but
the leakdown was 20% for two cylinders. This was probably the rings as there
were other people with GT Pro/Benson motors with problems. I don't think
they use that machine shop anymore, for good reason.

I'm going to put in a 2nd gen forged crank, new bearings, new rings (not
total seal for sure!), have the block honed, and check the heads for leaks,
especially the guides and seals, and use 2 stacked Montero 93mm bore head
gaskets.

The pistons were ceramic coated and dry film lube (molybdenum disulfide) on
the skirts from Swain Technologies. Should I get a new piston and have it
coated like the other five? Should I get a new set of pistons? Ross, JE,
Wiesco? I will post some pics of the ceramic coating after 12K miles, that
should be interesting.

I appreciate any advice, including GT PRO - whatd'a think???

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:37:07 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...

So I went to Rock Falls Raceway today to get the car tweaked in...
Didn't beat on it too much, just trying to get some baseline numbers.  I
got the fuel tweaked pretty well on the PMS (still running pretty rich
for using race fuel, but on the safe side is better than lean!).
Unfortunately my HKS boost controller held me back today as it only
allowed 14 psi on all my runs.  No amount of fiddling with it helped, it
always pumped out 14 psi.  :-(

However....  On leaded 110 octane race fuel and 14 psi my best timeslip was:

60':   1.849
330:   5.301
1/8:   8.185
MPH:  86.08
1000: 10.626
1/4:  12.671
MPH: 110.06

Made lots of high 12-second passes and low 13-second passes, 16 passes
in all.  Without more boost (or less fuel), the car just wouldn't do
better than 12.671.  Oh well...  I think I'm going to give up on the HKS
and switch back to a Hallman boost controller.  I would've liked to run
22 psi, but 14 was all I got.  :-(

Overall I'm pretty happy with the car for its first shakedown run.  It
ran 16 passes with no problems at all other than the lack of boost,
which should be easy enough to figure out.  Car was run fully equipped
(spare tire and all - same as I drive it on the street).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:52:17 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools

> Thanks all... I jacked the pressure up to 100 and kept it there for a
> while - came off after a bit.
>
> I was using a 12pt deep socket. That prolly deterred me a 'lil

Next time, if your impact wrench is 1/2" drive, you can insert it
directly into the bolt and not use a socket or anything.  Gives a little
more impact directly to the bolt.  Its also a good idea to use 6-point
sockets with impact wrenches wherever possible so you don't round off
stubborn bolts (been there, done that...).

:-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:34:56 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)

With the AVCR OFF I am getting .45 kg/cm2 boost.  Because of the way the
system is set up I doubt you can set it any lower than what the waste gate
actuators will allow.  With a 40% duty cycle I can set boost anywhere I want
it and I get exactly what I set.  With 70% duty cycle you should be over
boosting by a large margin.

Did you set your F/B speed back to the default 5?  This could by why you are
not getting the boost you want.

Why don't you work on the overall boost level before you mess with the rpm
and gear specific boost level.  You will learn how the thing works and it
won't be as frustrating.

Also, I have not seen my AVCR make any large adjustments in learn mode.  The
most I saw was it changed my duty cycle by 1% and one of my gear numbers by
1.  Don't expect it to fix everything over night.  I think this is a built
in feature to keep the AVCR from making insane corrections and undoing what
the user sets.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats.

Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition system, a front exhaust manifold
that doesn't have a *&^#@! crack in it.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 19:43:23 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)

What should the F/B speed be? When I re-initialized it, it did reset it
to 5.  I had been told by Dave Black to use  F/B Speed: 9 9 6 3 3.The
manual doesn't say anything about how to determine what the values
should be.  When you say the AVC-R off, what gear are you seeing .45
kg/cm2 in?  I think in 3rd I see about that but not in 1st or 2nd.  When
I re-initialized  the unit, I started over and followed the book
precisely.  Right after the install, it says to go do the boost and duty
settings that you want.  That's what's what I have been working on and
not been able to get correctly.   Dave also told me to set the gear
judge to the following parameters but I have not set them so far because
I wasn't sure if they were correct or not and possibly causing me the
problems. 
   Gear judge:
>         1. 107
>         2. 063
>         3. 041
>         4. 030
>         5. 023
>         N/S 255
Thanks for all your help
 
 
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: dakken [mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 7:35 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
 
With the AVCR OFF I am getting .45 kg/cm2 boost.  Because of the way the
system is set up I doubt you can set it any lower than what the waste
gate
actuators will allow.  With a 40% duty cycle I can set boost anywhere I
want
it and I get exactly what I set.  With 70% duty cycle you should be over
boosting by a large margin.

Did you set your F/B speed back to the default 5?  This could by why you
are
not getting the boost you want.

Why don't you work on the overall boost level before you mess with the
rpm
and gear specific boost level.  You will learn how the thing works and
it
won't be as frustrating.

Also, I have not seen my AVCR make any large adjustments in learn mode.
The
most I saw was it changed my duty cycle by 1% and one of my gear numbers
by
1.  Don't expect it to fix everything over night.  I think this is a
built
in feature to keep the AVCR from making insane corrections and undoing
what
the user sets.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted pre-cats.

Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition system, a front exhaust
manifold
that doesn't have a *&^#@! crack in it.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #870
***************************************