Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, June 15
2002 Volume 01 : Number
870
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 14 Jun 2002 16:59:35 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
Have you used the
gear judge and set your gears for the car yet? I have a 5
speed but
looking at your numbers, they look high for 1st gear.
Be sure to have the
Relative 1 highlighted for your sensor select.
Your AVCR is in learn mode
for your duty cycle. It looks very high at each
RPM. Even when my
car was all stock, I never had the duty cycle over 50.
It is currently at
40.
I would also reduce your feed back speed or F/B speed to the base 5
for all
gears. Don't change this unless you have to when your boost
overshoots.
Your graph scale for rpm needs to be increased to 8000
rpms.
I would increase the speed scale too since I tend to go over 120
mph every
now and then.
This is how I made my settings to my
AVCR.
1. I made all the car specific settings that it says to make
in the manual.
2. I set boost initially to a safe .6 kg/cm2 with
the base 40% duty cycle
3. I drove my car in each gear and set the
gear judge.
4. Next I would run my car at WOT in 3rd gear to about
5000 rpms on the
highway. Then I would check the peak boost level with
the peak hold
feature. If I over shot then I would reduce the duty
cycle. If I was too
low, I would increase the duty cycle. I never
made any changes larger than
5% at a time.
5. Once I had good
numbers for .6 kg/cm2 boost, I then increased boost to
where I wanted
it. It is currently at .8 kg/cm2 until I am done upgrading
my fuel
system.
I never did rpm or gear specific boost since I figure that if I
stomp on the
gas, I want maximum boost no matter what gear or rpm I'm
at. I may program
all that in the future when I run a road course, when
heat becomes a factor.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump,
Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
Apexi SAFC, DSM 450 cc
injectors, Direct Hits ignition system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 17:07:33
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: No Boost
> I got the AVC-R installed, but the solenoid
isn't working whatsoever.
> I've checked the vacuum lines and the
electrical harnesses. If the ECU
> is wired wrong, could that be
affecting it?
Are the nipples on your solenoid in the COM and NO
holes?
Also double check the way you have your vacuum hoses routed.
Just go to
Roger Gerl's web page
http://www.rtec.ch and look at the Blitz
Boost
Controller setup.
ECU wiring should not affect your
solenoid. You can tell if the ECU is
wired wrong easy by looking at
your readings. If your speed, rpm, throttle
and other reading are wrong
then you know you spliced into the wrong wires.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow
cat,Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided
brake lines and gutted pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2
weeks:
Apexi SAFC, DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct Hits ignition
system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 20:42:14
-0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Window weather strip
Good evening all.
I'd like to share what
I learned today when replacing my driver side outer
window weather strip-
the one that keeps water from leaking between the
window and door.
The
service manual says to remove the whole interior door panel. You don't
need
to, but if you want to take it off, read Jeff 316 site on how to do it-
the
service manual shows many more screws coming off than necessary.
To get the
old strip off, pry off the interior delta panel- it is held on by
two pegs
that slide into the outer delta panel. Be nice- I suggest prying
from the
front of the car, that way any damage you may cause won't be seen
when the
door is closed. The outer delta panel comes off with one screw
hidden
underneath the interior delta panel. One screw at each end of the
door
fastens the strip, between is by a compression type fitting running the
length of the strip. These screws are underneath the big rubber door seals-
no problem to get to. Once the screws are out, start pulling up on the rear
end of the strip, and eventually it will start to pop off the
door.
Getting the new one on is a pain. As usual, Mitsu didn't pack the new
one in
anything but a bag, so it was bent. I tried to straighten it to
better
resemble the door and kinked it. So, be nice because it is made of
really
thin metal. Then, just lay the new strip on the rail that it goes on
and
start to push down- I went equal to both ends instead of working from
one
end to the other. It takes a lot of force, so I closed the door and
raised
the window. You'll eventually get it to pop on and seat all the way
and
match the screw-holes. Mine doesn't seal against the window in all
places
and I am hoping that a day in the NM sun will get it to warp and seal
against the window.
If you do elect to take off the interior door panel,
note there are several
pieces of metal along the top of the panel that hook
onto raised portions
along the top of the door. The panel would rather not
go onto these raised
portions, but doesn't seal against the window. Keep
that in mind- if it goes
on real easy, you missed something. Also, like
Jeff's site mentions, there
is one big peg on the bottom of the panel that
hooks onto the door- don't
miss that.
That's my story and I'm sticking to
it. Hopefully someone whose weather
strip needs replacing might find this
message helpful.
Have fun,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:41:12
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Weight question
Power driver's seat is 60# and non-power
passenger seat is 40#.
I think someone was making a list of all the parts
and their weight
pulled out of a car sometime back in the archives. I
think Geoff and
Arty maybe on the "project" cars weighed things
too.
Yes there is a lot of weight in the interior carpeting.
Remember, this
is a touring car (GTO) and not some flimsy lightweight.
I find the
weight to be a bonus on the Interstate at 80 mph when a 40 mph
crosswind
hits. All cars shudder and slow and swerve. Not
me. I keep right on
straight ahead.
Instead of being penalized
by the weight I look for the ways it is a
help to me.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry
B.
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 19:42
I can answer alot of this
question. first off the drivers seat, ( if you
ahve full mechanical seats)
weights 70-80 pounds, cannot remember the
exact.
if you own a all wheel
drive you have 2 times the axels, transfer case,
all
wheel steering,, if
you have it adds a second so called rack in the
rear.
talking to a few
friends that work at dodge said that there are like 4
layers of sound
proofing and padding and carpet on the floor, Do not
know
what the exact
weight is but he said approx.. 150 + of it so there are a
few
things you
can think about,, then go take a look at yoru car and really
think of all the
small things that you wouldn't think of seeing.....
Jerry 93
Stealth RT/TT & 92 Stealth E/S
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 23:28:39
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is this spark blowout?
>My PocketLog shows WOT, the o2
sensor falls off from
>..94V, then injectors go to 0ms momentarily,
but there
>is only like 1-2 counts of knock.
Welcome to the
fuel cutoff!
(You forgot to upgrage your fuel system)
>AVC-R,
Alky injection, K&N, HKS exhaust, SSBOV, and
>heavy foot are my
relevant mods
Need to gowngrade that foot until you get the fuel system
up to snuff!
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 13:32:24
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apex'i AVC-R
Just hook up the valve in between the red marked
line comming from the
y-pipe and your ok. Have a look on my 3000GT pages
under
www.rtec.ch and
check out the DSBC
Installation Page that is very similar.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 02:40 12.06.2002 -0700,
Bradford J. Gay wrote:
>HELP!
>
>My friend and I are haplessly
trying to install the AVC-R and it really
>isn't working. We thought
we had it figured out per the instructions,
>but then it clicked that the
car has two wastegates and two of just
>about everything else the manual
tells us to hook it up to. Can anyone
>please tell me how to install
it step-by-step? Any help is
appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>-Brad
> 97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 21:28:36
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question
You most likely won't hit your
set boost value in 1st gear, especially if
you have upgraded turbos.
1st gear accelerations reach redline so quick
that your turbos won't spool up
quickly enough.
You should really consider enabling "learn" mode for 2nd
& 3rd gears. The
unit will then adjust the duty cycle values
correctly for each RPM. It will
then maintain correct values as
atmospheric conditions change.
A very good graph is "values vs time"
while monitoring boost and solenoid
values. At WOT, you should see the
solenoid immediately jump to 90% duty.
As boost nears your set value, the
solenoid duty cycle will lower and trace
a curve to keep boost rising until
your set value is achieved.
This unit is really amazing if you take a
little time to set it up
correctly.
Good luck,
Ken
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>; <
dblai@allstate.com>
Sent: Friday,
June 14, 2002 11:19 AM
Subject: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick
question
> Hey, I wanted to first off thank everyone for their
help with the AVC-R,
> I really appreciated it and it is finally in.
Man, it is SO much nicer
> to use then the HKS EVC. Anyway, Dave
Black had emailed me with the
> settings he had used for his. I set
it up with all those settings but
> in first gear I am only getting .62
2nd .70 and 3rd .75 or so. I
> haven't fully opened it up in the
higher gears cause I was trying to set
> everything up. I am going
to list all the parameters and see if anyone
> can give me any ideas as to
why I am not at .95. Thanks again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 22:05:22
-1000
From: "Ben Domingo" <
ben91vr4@lycos.com>
Subject: Team3S:
(No Subject)
Aloha everyone..Here is my problem my car grinds in 2nd and
4th and won't slip into 3rd at all. Any suggestion on what might be the problem?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 04:39:50
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: (No Subject)
Your synchros are gone/going. Not shifting into
gear is (if I remember
correctly) a possibly broken shift fork. This is more
or less of a
common issue with our cars.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Ben Domingo
Sent: Saturday,
June 15, 2002 3:05 AM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: (No Subject)
Aloha everyone..Here is my problem my car grinds in
2nd and 4th and
won't slip into 3rd at all. Any suggestion on what might be
the problem?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 02:39:00
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: PCV
Breather
Hey all,
I've looked all over the place since I've seen
so much discussion about this
issue. My oil filler cap leaks and I'm pretty
sure it's the PCV valve since
the damn thing looks rusty and old. While I'm
here, I'm sick of letting that
oil get sucked into my intake, so I'm planning
on capping off the intake and
using a breather filter. Is there any problem
with *not* having a vacuum
sucking on the crankcase that I should be aware
of? And also, should I leave
the PCV Valve on and connect its output to the
breather, or just skip the
valve altogether and find a "screw-in"
breather/coupler? (also I could just
drill through the PCV Valve
springs and that would make it a convenient
screw-in coupler) Thanks in
advance!
Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 18:35:58
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PCV Breather
No breather recommended.
www.et-performance.com/whats_new.html#turboIt's
the best solution so far to prevent leaking. A good
insurance.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I've looked all over
the place since I've seen so much discussion about
this
> issue. My oil
filler cap leaks and I'm pretty sure it's the PCV valve
since
> the
damn thing looks rusty and old. While I'm here, I'm sick of
letting
that
> oil get sucked into my intake, so I'm planning on
capping off the intake
and
> using a breather filter. Is there any
problem with *not* having a vacuum
> sucking on the crankcase that I
should be aware of? And also, should I
leave
> the PCV Valve on and
connect its output to the breather, or just skip the
> valve altogether
and find a "screw-in" breather/coupler? (also I could
just
>
drill through the PCV Valve springs and that would make it a convenient
>
screw-in coupler) Thanks in advance!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 10:27:26
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Dell laptop (ideal for datalogging) for sale on eBay LAST
DAY!!
Auction ends tomorrow!!! Current bid is $305. LOTS of accessories.
Basic
info is Dell PII 266 MMX, 128 MB RAM, 6.02 GB HD, 13.3" TFT,
10/100
NIC+56K cell combo card, CDROM, floppy, carry case, 5 port
10/100
switch, plus more!
For all the info please check out the
auction at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2031131440That
needs to all be on one line. Picts are in the auction. PLEASE SEND
ALL
REPLIES DIRECTLY TO ME OFF LIST. I am sure all the others would
appreciate it
as well.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:03:31
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question
I can't figure out what I
am doing wrong and the manual is somewhat
vague. I went an initialized
everything so I was starting over from
scratch. I put in that the
vehicle was Japanese and all those settings
following the manual. I
then says to do the boost settings. I put that
I want the boost to be
at .95 and the duty at 70% since with the boost
controller off I was getting
.35 and the manual said to set the duty at
70% if you are getting .4 and
desire 1.0. So I went an did that and the
manual says when I am driving
it will learn the duty settings for each
rpm once a stable boost is achieved
and the throttle is at 85% or
greater. So anyway, I can't get the damn
thing to learn the duty cycle!
I have tried and tried and it never seems to
want to learn, I assume the
boost must just slightly fluxuate which causes it
not to learn. So just
to make sure the unit was working, I set my
desired boost to be .40 and
lowered the duty cycle to 20 I think and ran the
car, and then it
started learning the duty cycle because it was holding an
even .40. I
am still only getting .78 or so in 3rd gear which I would
assume I
should be able to hit .95 in 3rd on the stock turbos. I am
open to any
and all suggestions. Thanks
Joshua
Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft
Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh
[mailto:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 12:29 AM
To:
Joshua G. Prince;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question
You most likely won't hit your
set boost value in 1st gear, especially
if
you have upgraded turbos.
1st gear accelerations reach redline so quick
that your turbos won't spool up
quickly enough.
You should really consider enabling "learn" mode for 2nd
& 3rd gears.
The
unit will then adjust the duty cycle values correctly
for each RPM. It
will
then maintain correct values as atmospheric
conditions change.
A very good graph is "values vs time" while monitoring
boost and
solenoid
values. At WOT, you should see the solenoid
immediately jump to 90%
duty.
As boost nears your set value, the solenoid
duty cycle will lower and
trace
a curve to keep boost rising until your
set value is achieved.
This unit is really amazing if you take a little
time to set it up
correctly.
Good luck,
Ken
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 13:31:32
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
Okay, I'm completely stumped.
I went out,
bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
pulley isn't
spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
I'm considering going out and
buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
apprehensive about that - if the bolt
is torqued (supposedly) to 150
ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning
to get a 500 ftlb impact -
isn't that a little dangerous?
I'm in the
middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would be
greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Alex.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Rivenburg, Pete
Sent:
Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
To:
'team3s@team3s.com'Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
//Alex:
//WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is
tight because it was torqued on
//tight--and you're gonna have to torque it
back on just as tight when
you
//put
//it back together. Save yourself
a lot of grief and buy the darn tool.
anyone try a strap wrench for
this yet? I have used one on two different
V8's to hold the harmonic balancer
while torquing it down. works great.
I
haven't had to do much to my mitsu
yet besides electrical repair so It's
great reading all the posts. you guys
are a great resource.
93 3000GTSL stock.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:40:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
You have to appreciate the static friction on the
bolt.
Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in
there". Its also
the reason you cant get accurate torque readings on a
nut or bolt unless
its moving..and why head studs are better than
bolts.
Have you applied heat to the bolt?
On Sat, 15 Jun 2002,
Alex Pedenko wrote:
> Okay, I'm completely stumped.
>
> I
went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
>
pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
>
> I'm
considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
>
apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
>
ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact -
>
isn't that a little dangerous?
>
> I'm in the middle of all of this
as we speak, so any help would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Rivenburg, Pete
>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
> To:
'team3s@team3s.com'> Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
>
> //Alex:
>
> //WD-40
ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
>
//tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when
>
you
> //put
> //it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and
buy the darn tool.
>
>
> anyone try a strap wrench for this
yet? I have used one on two different
> V8's to hold the harmonic balancer
while torquing it down. works great.
> I
> haven't had to do much to
my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so It's
> great reading all the
posts. you guys are a great resource.
>
> 93 3000GTSL
stock.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.
Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 13:36:58
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
I haven't tried heating it, and wouldn't trust
myself with a torch
anywhere near the car.
Do you think it's safe to
get a bigger impact, or rather apply that much
force? I mean I really don't
want to break or strip that bolt - if I do
I'm in for an expensive
ride.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 1:40
PM
To: Alex Pedenko
Cc: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k
tools
You have to appreciate the static friction on the bolt.
Its
not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in there".
Its
also
the reason you cant get accurate torque readings on a nut or bolt
unless
its moving..and why head studs are better than bolts.
Have you
applied heat to the bolt?
On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko
wrote:
> Okay, I'm completely stumped.
>
> I went out,
bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
> pulley isn't
spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
>
> I'm considering going
out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> apprehensive about that -
if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
> ftlbs and I'm applying 250
now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb impact
- -
> isn't that a little
dangerous?
>
> I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any
help would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of Rivenburg, Pete
>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
> To:
'team3s@team3s.com'> Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
>
> //Alex:
>
> //WD-40
ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was torqued on
>
//tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just as tight when
>
you
> //put
> //it back together. Save yourself a lot of grief and
buy the darn
tool.
>
>
> anyone try a strap wrench for
this yet? I have used one on two
different
> V8's to hold the harmonic
balancer while torquing it down. works
great.
> I
> haven't had
to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so
It's
> great
reading all the posts. you guys are a great resource.
>
> 93
3000GTSL stock.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:45:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
Sure you can try bigger...got nuff pressure in your
air tank for what you
already have?
On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko
wrote:
> I haven't tried heating it, and wouldn't trust myself with a
torch
> anywhere near the car.
>
> Do you think it's safe to
get a bigger impact, or rather apply that much
> force? I mean I really
don't want to break or strip that bolt - if I do
> I'm in for an expensive
ride.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 1:40
PM
> To: Alex Pedenko
> Cc: 'Team3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
60k tools
>
> You have to appreciate the static friction on the
bolt.
>
> Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well, "in
there". Its
> also
> the reason you cant get accurate torque
readings on a nut or bolt unless
> its moving..and why head studs are
better than bolts.
>
> Have you applied heat to the bolt?
>
> On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> > Okay,
I'm completely stumped.
> >
> > I went out, bought a
compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
> > pulley isn't
spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
> >
> > I'm
considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> >
apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
>
> ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500 ftlb
impact
> -
> > isn't that a little dangerous?
> >
> > I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help would
be
> > greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
>
>
> > Alex.
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
> Behalf
> > Of Rivenburg,
Pete
> > Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 10:04 AM
> > To:
'team3s@team3s.com'> > Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
> >
> >
> > //Alex:
>
>
> > //WD-40 ain't gonna help. That bolt is tight because it was
torqued on
> > //tight--and you're gonna have to torque it back on just
as tight when
> > you
> > //put
> > //it back
together. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy the darn
> tool.
>
>
> >
> > anyone try a strap wrench for this yet? I have
used one on two
> different
> > V8's to hold the harmonic
balancer while torquing it down. works
> great.
> > I
>
> haven't had to do much to my mitsu yet besides electrical repair so
>
It's
> > great reading all the posts. you guys are a great
resource.
> >
> > 93 3000GTSL stock.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 13:42:35
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
The compressor keeps the tank @ 125psi and flows
5.5 cfm @ 90psi
The impact is rated at 5.4 cfm @ 90 psi
I set the tool
pressure @ 90 psi and let 'er rip...
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Saturday,
June 15, 2002 1:46 PM
To: Alex Pedenko
Cc: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
Sure you can try bigger...got nuff pressure in your air
tank for what
you
already have?
On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko
wrote:
> I haven't tried heating it, and wouldn't trust myself with a
torch
> anywhere near the car.
>
> Do you think it's safe to
get a bigger impact, or rather apply that
much
> force? I mean I really
don't want to break or strip that bolt - if I
do
> I'm in for an
expensive ride.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Saturday, June 15,
2002 1:40 PM
> To: Alex Pedenko
> Cc: 'Team3S'
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k tools
>
> You have to appreciate the static friction on
the bolt.
>
> Its not that it was over-tightened, its just..well,
"in there". Its
> also
> the reason you cant get accurate
torque readings on a nut or bolt
unless
> its moving..and why head
studs are better than bolts.
>
> Have you applied heat to the
bolt?
>
> On Sat, 15 Jun 2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
>
> Okay, I'm completely stumped.
> >
> > I went out, bought
a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect.
The
> > pulley isn't
spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
> >
> > I'm
considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm rather
> >
apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued (supposedly) to 150
>
> ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to get a 500
ftlb
impact
> -
> > isn't that a little dangerous?
>
>
> > I'm in the middle of all of this as we speak, so any help
would be
> > greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:49:52
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
60k tools
If you're using an extension on the socket it will absorb
a lot of the
impact from the wrench. Make sure the pressure is at a
maximum
for your setup.
I've had success with a
breaker bar and the starter on other cars ---
lock the bar against a
frame piece or the ground and crank the starter.
You're not
likely to damage the bolt with a more powerful impact, you
could break
a small bolt but not anything as large as a crank
bolt.
Jim Berry
.
=================================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > Okay, I'm completely stumped.
> >
> >
I went out, bought a compressor and a 250 ftlb impact. No effect. The
>
> pulley isn't spinning, but it's not undoing the bolt.
> >
> > I'm considering going out and buying a bigger impact, but I'm
rather
> > apprehensive about that - if the bolt is torqued
(supposedly) to 150
> > ftlbs and I'm applying 250 now, and planning to
get a 500 ftlb impact -
> > isn't that a little
dangerous?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:30:13
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k tools
Woo! It's off...
Thanks all... I jacked the
pressure up to 100 and kept it there for a
while - came off after a
bit.
I was using a 12pt deep socket. That prolly deterred me a
'lil
Alex.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry B.
[mailto:scorpman@optonline.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 2:12 PM
To:
Alex Pedenko
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k tools
As I said before,, I have
had my crank bolt off 10 times in the last 2
months and believe me,, if you
break that bolt taking it off I wil lgive
you
my stealth.. that bolt is
hardened becasue of the stress put on it. get
the
bigger gun, do not use
an extension for this will reduce the impact on
the
gun, use an impact 6
sided socket, shallow drive and jsut lay on the
trigger. it will come off.
Like I said before i am a mechanic and do
timming
belts every day on
cars.
Any more questions i am willing to help.
Jerry.
www.higherbeingttstealthrt.cjb.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:24:55
-0400
From: "Anthony & Susan" <
jetbike@worldlynx.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Help!!!!!!
Listeners,
Just had my transmission replaced. It's
from Kormex. Now I have a oil leak
which I can't locate. I don't think it's
the trans itself. The oil keeps
collecting at the bottom of the transfer
case. I check all 3 plugs and they
were dry. I know it's coming from above
but with all the nooks and crannies
I can't seem to locate it. On top of the
transfer case there is a black
plastic ball and it may be the culprit. What
is it? An air vent that if
there was to much oil in the case it would leak?
The shop that installed it
seems to have done a great job. Has anyone ever
had this problem? Please
help and thanx in advance. I'm using Mobil 1
15/50.
Regards,
Anthony
93 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 14:00:06
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Pulled motor - wasn't rod knock
Below is the cut/paste from
my post on 3si, I'll post the pics there:
I thought it was rod knock for
sure, turns out it was a broken wrist pin on
the one of the GTPro/Ross
pistons. This was a built stage IV motor -
completed about 1 year ago. So -
think there's any kinda warranty on the
pistons? Not likely as it's a
performance part.
The bearings are perfect, no signs of substantial
stress. The last time I
had the motor checked, about 2K miles ago, the
compression was great, but
the leakdown was 20% for two cylinders. This was
probably the rings as there
were other people with GT Pro/Benson motors with
problems. I don't think
they use that machine shop anymore, for good
reason.
I'm going to put in a 2nd gen forged crank, new bearings, new
rings (not
total seal for sure!), have the block honed, and check the heads
for leaks,
especially the guides and seals, and use 2 stacked Montero 93mm
bore head
gaskets.
The pistons were ceramic coated and dry film lube
(molybdenum disulfide) on
the skirts from Swain Technologies. Should I get a
new piston and have it
coated like the other five? Should I get a new set of
pistons? Ross, JE,
Wiesco? I will post some pics of the ceramic coating after
12K miles, that
should be interesting.
I appreciate any advice,
including GT PRO - whatd'a think???
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:37:07
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Went to the dragstrip today...
So I went to Rock Falls Raceway
today to get the car tweaked in...
Didn't beat on it too much, just trying
to get some baseline numbers. I
got the fuel tweaked pretty well on
the PMS (still running pretty rich
for using race fuel, but on the safe side
is better than lean!).
Unfortunately my HKS boost controller held me back
today as it only
allowed 14 psi on all my runs. No amount of fiddling
with it helped, it
always pumped out 14 psi.
:-(
However.... On leaded 110 octane race fuel and 14 psi my best
timeslip was:
60': 1.849
330:
5.301
1/8: 8.185
MPH: 86.08
1000:
10.626
1/4: 12.671
MPH: 110.06
Made lots of high 12-second
passes and low 13-second passes, 16 passes
in all. Without more boost
(or less fuel), the car just wouldn't do
better than 12.671. Oh
well... I think I'm going to give up on the HKS
and switch back to a
Hallman boost controller. I would've liked to run
22 psi, but 14 was
all I got. :-(
Overall I'm pretty happy with the car for its first
shakedown run. It
ran 16 passes with no problems at all other than the
lack of boost,
which should be easy enough to figure out. Car was run
fully equipped
(spare tire and all - same as I drive it on the
street).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:52:17
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
> Thanks all... I jacked the pressure up to 100 and
kept it there for a
> while - came off after a bit.
>
> I was
using a 12pt deep socket. That prolly deterred me a 'lil
Next time, if
your impact wrench is 1/2" drive, you can insert it
directly into the bolt
and not use a socket or anything. Gives a little
more impact directly
to the bolt. Its also a good idea to use 6-point
sockets with impact
wrenches wherever possible so you don't round off
stubborn bolts (been
there, done that...).
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:34:56
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
With the AVCR OFF I
am getting .45 kg/cm2 boost. Because of the way the
system is set up I
doubt you can set it any lower than what the waste gate
actuators will
allow. With a 40% duty cycle I can set boost anywhere I want
it and I
get exactly what I set. With 70% duty cycle you should be over
boosting
by a large margin.
Did you set your F/B speed back to the default
5? This could by why you are
not getting the boost you want.
Why
don't you work on the overall boost level before you mess with the rpm
and
gear specific boost level. You will learn how the thing works and
it
won't be as frustrating.
Also, I have not seen my AVCR make any
large adjustments in learn mode. The
most I saw was it changed my duty
cycle by 1% and one of my gear numbers by
1. Don't expect it to fix
everything over night. I think this is a built
in feature to keep the
AVCR from making insane corrections and undoing what
the user
sets.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, a front exhaust manifold
that doesn't have a *&^#@!
crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 19:43:23
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
What should the F/B
speed be? When I re-initialized it, it did reset it
to 5. I had been
told by Dave Black to use F/B Speed: 9 9 6 3 3.The
manual doesn't say
anything about how to determine what the values
should be. When you say
the AVC-R off, what gear are you seeing .45
kg/cm2 in? I think in 3rd I
see about that but not in 1st or 2nd. When
I re-initialized the
unit, I started over and followed the book
precisely. Right after the
install, it says to go do the boost and duty
settings that you want.
That's what's what I have been working on and
not been able to get
correctly. Dave also told me to set the gear
judge to the
following parameters but I have not set them so far because
I wasn't sure if
they were correct or not and possibly causing me the
problems.
Gear
judge:
> 1.
107
> 2.
063
> 3.
041
> 4.
030
> 5.
023
> N/S 255
Thanks
for all your help
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow
Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2002 7:35 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks to all and a quick question (AVCR)
With the AVCR OFF I am
getting .45 kg/cm2 boost. Because of the way the
system is set up I
doubt you can set it any lower than what the waste
gate
actuators will
allow. With a 40% duty cycle I can set boost anywhere I
want
it and
I get exactly what I set. With 70% duty cycle you should be
over
boosting by a large margin.
Did you set your F/B speed back to
the default 5? This could by why you
are
not getting the boost you
want.
Why don't you work on the overall boost level before you mess with
the
rpm
and gear specific boost level. You will learn how the thing
works and
it
won't be as frustrating.
Also, I have not seen my AVCR
make any large adjustments in learn mode.
The
most I saw was it changed my
duty cycle by 1% and one of my gear numbers
by
1. Don't expect it to
fix everything over night. I think this is a
built
in feature to
keep the AVCR from making insane corrections and undoing
what
the user
sets.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, Apexi SAFC, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high
flow cat, Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake lines and gutted
pre-cats.
Soon to come in next 2 weeks:
DSM 450 cc injectors, Direct
Hits ignition system, a front exhaust
manifold
that doesn't have a
*&^#@! crack in it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#870
***************************************