Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, June 6
2002 Volume 01 : Number
862
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:54:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
One day wife thought one of her tires on
the Grand Am
looked low (205/55/16's). I was laid up with
back
problem so she calls AAA tow truck. They fill and she
is on her
way. Week later I check the pressure -
65LBS!
3kgt content ->
Check your pressure anytime someone
fiddles with it.
Glenn
- ---
cody <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
wrote:
> Many tires are rated at 35 psi max. The pressure
>
has more to do with
> the load carried than anything else. For
instance,
> if a tire carries
> 2000 lbs at 44 psi, it will only
support XXXX lbs at
> 30 psi. I do not
> know the calculations
for any of that though...
> There's not much risk
> in
overinflating tires... If there was, about 1/4
> of DT's
customers
> would have blow outs... We check the air in every
>
single car that comes
> in... 2/3's are low, a small percent are
perfect,
> and 1/4 are too
> high.... Hell, we had ain Integra
the other day
> with 80 psi in all 4
> tires.... he said the
last time he put air in them
> was over a month
> ago...
Regardless, max tire pressure has more to do
> with load rating
>
than anything else...
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com>
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Chris Winkley
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 9:57 AM
> To: Jerry B.;
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
>
> Jerry...
>
> As I just wrote in a previous post, I run 42 on the
> front, 39
on the
> rear and have been doing so ever since steel belted
>
radials were
> developed. Perhaps there was some risk of "blowing
>
up" a tire back in
> the pre-70s when all tires were bias ply tires,
but
> I doubt most
> listmembers even remember those days. The
sidewall
> rating on every
> performance tire I've bought in the
last 20 years
> has a max pressure of
> at least 44 psi. What tires
do you sell that have a
> 35 psi rating???
> Hard rubber (300+
treadwear rating) used by little
> old ladies for their
> Lincolns
or for "green" drivers who want maximum
> economy? Why would the
>
manufacturer list a maximum pressure that would
> endanger the life of
the
> tire and/or driver???
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry
B. [mailto:scorpman@optonline.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 6:46
PM
> To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
>
> You should really
look to see that the max tire
> pressure on the tires
>
are,,
> i work for a tire shop and if you go 40 and the
> tires are
rated for 35
> max,,
> you are going to blow them up,, also there is
no
> reason to run more hen
> 32-35 psi in your tires on our cars..
you will loose
> traction and
> handleing
> not to mention
woof the tires..
>
> Jerry 93 Stealth RT?TT & 92 Stealth
E/S
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:55:12
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Info needed on proper offset
35-40 mm offset is recommended,
closer to 35 I would say...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
MaxNix@aol.comSent: Wednesday, June 05,
2002 9:38 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Info needed on proper offset
I'm interested in buying 18x9 SSR
GT1 wheels with 265/35 pole postion
S0-3
tires for a '92 RT/TT. The car
has stock brakes, but i'm going to be
ugrading
in the future. Should I
reduce the offset or stay with stock offset ?
TIA
Paul
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:20:47
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
Just..be careful the first time
out.
They'll suck really bad until they are scuffed up.
On Wed, 5
Jun 2002, Stephen H. Simonds wrote:
> When I got the car 1 year ago it
has 10,000 miles and the original
> Goodyear tires - about a 300+ rating
plus 8 years old and hard as a
> rock. I spent last summer sliding
around the autocross courses.
>
> This winter I purchased the
Kumho 712's and it's like being on a race
> tire. They are about a
220 wear rating I believe and soft - and over
> half gon already from this
years racing.
>
> I have a new set of Kumho Vectoracer's and a
second set of rims to try
> now. I can wait to see how well these
stick to the track.
>
>
> Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >
> > The 712? How is that considered a race tire?
> >
> > Race tires are considered to be under a treadwear rating of
60.
> > (technically)
> >
> >
> > > I
autocross with the front tires at 38 - 40 and the rears at 34 - 35
> >
> psi. I am running Kumho Supra 712 street/race tire - 245/45R17.
I have
> > > very little sidewall rollover on the fronts and
absoutely none on the
> > > rear - all the forces are on the front
tires.
> > >
>
>
> Steve - '94 Stealth
TT
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog
online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 22:18:43
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Info needed on proper offset
I bought SSR GT1 in 18x9 from Tire
Rack, with 265-35-18" Kumho Ecsta V700
tires. They have 38mm offset,
and fit. My car is lowered fairly much but
not slammed, via Ground
Control springs. The tires almost rub the Ground
Control lower spring
collar, and if I went any lower might rub. I would get
35mm if I
could(a touch further outward) if I had it to do over again.
Still, these
work, work fine, and I could always grind a couple mm off the
collars, or use
a thin wheel spacer.
Jack T.
From: <
MaxNix@aol.com>
> I'm interested in
buying 18x9 SSR GT1 wheels with 265/35 pole postion S0-3
> tires for '92
RT/TT; stock brakes, but I'm going to be ugrading.
> Should I reduce
offset or stay stock?
> Paul
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 00:38:16
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
At 19:15 6/5/2002, Geddes, Brian J
wrote:
>Come on guys, I was hoping for a LITTLE more response than
this! :) I
>thought it was a pretty interesting problem...I'll
add a few more details in
>the hope of cultivating some
interest.
It IS interesting. You described the symptoms well enough. I
believe you,
but the symptoms do not make sense. The problems twists the
mind and the
mind stays twisted. That prevents everyone from replying.
Besides, you
suggested the seemingly only possible culprit - the fuel
pressure problem.
>I suspected that my fuel pressure regulator
solenoid might be causing the
>problem, perhaps closing during boost and
preventing the FPR from seeing the
>boost pressure. To test the
theory, I bypassed the FPR solenoid and ran the
>vacuum lines straight
from the plenum to the FPR. No dice - the symptoms
>are still the
same.
Can you tap a tire pressure gauge into the fuel line? Run a long
line to
the top of the hood, attach a gauge to it, and drive like that. See
what it
is reading. I would use a $2-dollar non-peak-hold gauge from
WalMart.
Attach the gauge and the fuel line really well. You should see
something
around 58 psi at 15 psi of boost.
Check out your intake for
leaks. A leak between the MAS and the turbos
would also cause your car to
run lean.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 22:15:34
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tire Pressure Question
When I got the car 1 year ago it has 10,000 miles
and the original
Goodyear tires - about a 300+ rating plus 8 years old and
hard as a
rock. I spent last summer sliding around the autocross
courses.
This winter I purchased the Kumho 712's and it's like being on
a race
tire. They are about a 220 wear rating I believe and soft - and
over
half gon already from this years racing.
I have a new set of
Kumho Vectoracer's and a second set of rims to try
now. I can wait to
see how well these stick to the track.
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> The 712? How is that considered a race tire?
>
>
Race tires are considered to be under a treadwear rating of 60.
>
(technically)
>
>
> > I autocross with the front tires at
38 - 40 and the rears at 34 - 35
> > psi. I am running Kumho
Supra 712 street/race tire - 245/45R17. I have
> > very little
sidewall rollover on the fronts and absoutely none on the
> > rear -
all the forces are on the front tires.
Steve - '94 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 01:33:52
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tire Pressure Question
Erik,
I believe the USER manual recommends
+7/+6 psi (front/back) on 17 inch
rims and +6/+6 psi on 18 inch rims when
going 100+ mph or "high speed
driving." I hope I got all these numbers
right, because I wrote them
out of memory.
These numbers are a
bit vague, so in case some of you are wondering
about gradually working your
way up to +7 psi, then here is something
official from the EUROPEAN
Standards:
High-Speed Pressure/Load Capacity Adjustments
European
Tyre and Rim Technical Organization (ETRTO) Standards Manual
ETRTO
Recommendations
"ZR", "W" Rating Vehicle Top Speed Pressure Increase Tire
Load Capacity
km/h mph bar psi W
190 118
0 0 100%
200 124 .1 1.5 100%
210
130 .2 3.0 100%
220 136 .3 4.5 100%
230
143 .4 6.0 100%
240 149 .5 7.5 100%
250 155
.5 7.5 95%
260 161 .5 7.5 90%
270 168 .5 7.5
85%
"ZR", "Y" Rating Vehicle Top Speed Pressure Increase Tire Load
Capacity
km/h mph bar psi Y
220 136 0 0
100%
230 143 .1 1.5 100%
240 149 .2 3.0
100%
250 155 .3 4.5 100%
260 161 .4 6.0 100%
270
168 .5 7.5 100%
280 174 .5 7.5 95%
290 180 .5 7.5
90%
300 186 .5 7.5 85%
* % of max. branded on
tire
Personally, I drive with +7 psi in all my Y-rated tires. I
like to have
the peace of mind and not be under inflated. If you never
drive more
than 70 mph, then you will not need pressure above the one written
on
the door label.
- -MIHAI-
95 3000GT VR4
Date: Tue, 4 Jun
2002 18:27:04 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
I went out and changed the pressure down
to 32/29 and the tires look
like they're really low in pressure (like halfway
flat). It still
drives ok, is 40 ok or am I going to blow them
up?
- - -Erik
'91 Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 00:01:19
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Leather Seats, Help please!
Unfortunatly I do not have time or
internet ability to download CAPS, so I
was wondering if someone could give
me a little help here.
The creme coloured leather in my car is very cracked
and has multiple holes
in it. I got it that way. I would like to keep the
stock leather as it has
those nice little holes in it and it matches the
interior nicely, so is
there a part number for the leather seat covers, or do
I have to buy the
whole seat (in which case I would not). Or would it be
better to go get the
car re-upholstered?
Thank you for your help
:)
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 09:04:05
+0300
From: "Erin Karsan" <
erinkarsan@ttnet.net.tr>
Subject:
Team3S: Top speed
I purchased my lovely car a few months ago. Last day I
had a chance to drive
may car early in the morning and I was trying its top
speed. It acelerated
to 152 beautifuly but than it stopped revving and stayed
there. Is it
something normal, is it a speed limitter or is there anything
wrong my car?
I was reaching to 160 mph with my old impreza turbo
easily.
I am going to turn the boost to 15 psi peek and 14 psi
continuous.
Do I need a modified exhaust (my cats are removed - free
flow)? I am really
confused because everybody is saying something
different.
Which is the best intake for our cars stillen or K&N
FIPK?
Which BOV you suggest, closed loop or the other one?
Which is the
best electronic boost controller for our cars. Blitz, HKS
or
AVC-R.
When I drive my car for 15 minutes (my home is close to my
job) my car
smells gasoline and my fuel consumption is high. My best drive
was 220 mile
with a full tank. Is there anything that I may check or is it
something
normal.
Thanks in advance.
Erin Karsan
94-VR4, cat
removed.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 02:09:01
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Tire Pressure Question
Here is a link to a copy of the original ERTRO
chart I got my pressures
from (the original moved from it's location on the
net):
http://www.speedtoys.com/~mraicu/ETRTO%20speed%20specifications.htm
- -MIHAI-
95 3000GT VR4
PS. I have not had any uneven
wear by running 42/39 psi on 18" rims.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 00:34:43
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: BBQ
Not sure if I'm allowed to do this or not, but there's no
better way to
reach the 3S community right?
Here in Aurora Colorado (USA)
I am organizing a BBQ/Potluck (Haven't decided
which yet) for the DSM/3S
community here in Colorado. If you are interested
in coming please e-mail me
and I will keep you updated on what is going on.
Also if you are registered
on DaveBlack's website in Colorado you allready
got a similar e-mail. Or you
will be getting one shortly.
Thanks for the space :)
PS: This is not
going to be a car show, although with this many car fanatics
it will more
than likely turn out that way. Mainly we will just be getting
together,
eating some good food and having a good time. (and looking at the
really cool
fast cars that show up (-: ) So please no racing, I really don't
want a bunch
of cops showing up and ruining it, save the racing for later
that night or
whatever, not on the way over, just don't want to get some
peoples hopes up
we are not going to have some huge TF&TF gathering with a
mile long
streth of road featuring drag races :) just a get together
involving
food.
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 00:44:09
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Top speed
> Which is the best intake for our cars stillen
or K&N FIPK?
Personally I don't think there is a very large difference
between all the
open element air filters available for our cars.
I would be surprised to
find any hard numbers that showed one intake had more
than 1 hp difference
with another intake. The main thing I look for is
can the element be
cleaned and reused (who wants to fork out $50 every 10k
miles for an exotic
air filter). Since most of the open element intakes
use a K&N filter, the
answer is usually yes.
> Which is the
best electronic boost controller for our cars. Blitz, HKS or
> AVC-R.
I
installed a AVC-R myself on my RT TT. I love it. It has some very
nice
features. It also came with a boost sensor, a high quality boost
control
cylinoid and a great display. I like having lots of control
over my car and
the Apexi gives you lots of options. There really is no
"best" boost
controller. Many people don't want to fiddle with all the
goo gaws that the
AVC-R has. If a boost controller does the job, then
the choice is just by
personal preferance.
> When I drive my car
for 15 minutes (my home is close to my job) my car
> smells gasoline and
my fuel consumption is high. My best drive was 220
mile
> with a full
tank. Is there anything that I may check or is it something
>
normal.
Whoa. Only 220 miles on a full tank? The stock EPA
MPG is 17 city and 24
highway. I drive 5 miles to work through city
traffic. It takes me about
15 minutes. Even with my lead foot I
still get at least 15 mpg. I can see
you only getting 220 miles if you
are trying for a top speed record every
day but for normal driving that is
very bad. I have driven 350 miles on a
tank of gas on the highway
without worring about running out of gas. It
sounds like you are
running very rich.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 08:32:35
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J
[SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 6:15
PM
> To: Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Suddenly running leaner at WOT
>
> Come on guys, I was hoping for a
LITTLE more response than this! :) I
> thought it was a pretty
interesting problem...I'll add a few more details
> in
> the hope of
cultivating some interest.
>
> In concert with this problem
(described below), a check engine light has
> come on. I haven't yet
figured out how to read the diag codes on my '94.
> I'll look in a
friend's manual tonight and try to grab the code.
>
[Willis,
Charles E.] Please read to the end - you want to get the
MFI code
...
Okay, the three day weekend gave me a chance to look up how to read
the ECS
trouble codes with a voltmeter.
1. Find the datalink
connector under the dash in the driver's side.
A. 1ST GENERATION -
connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12. Pin 3 is the
third down on the left
side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower
right corner.
B.
2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is
the
third from the top left side of the connector ( on the log side of
the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.
2. Turn the
ignition on.
3. Look at the voltmeter. The code is repeated
many times. Seven (7)
short deflections is code =0, and means
everything is wonderful.
4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short
= 11, G sensor bad.
2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor
open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open
These codes don't disappear
until ingnition switch is off, even if you fix
the problem.
5.
These codes disappear when you correct the problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front
Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear
right shock
6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left shock
MFI trouble codes are
read in a similar manner, but different pins.
FIRST GENERATION - connect
+ to pin 1, - to pin 12.
SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and
watch the CHECK ENGINE light
flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes
(1.5 sec) are tens digit,
short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit. That
gets you the same codes you
would read on the Scan Tool.
You clear
codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting
and idling
the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't return.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 09:43:38
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Leather Seats, Help please!
Donald,
I'm not
trying to pitch the company or anything, but a group of us from
here and
3si.org have a group buy going for 4 new leather/vinyl (same
content as OEM)
through leatherseats.com. The thread's link is below.
For
reference the dealership will charge you ~$700 per seat vs. ~ $600
through
the group buy. If your interested, take a look at the
thread.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78694Dan
Johnson
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: Leather Seats, Help
please!
> Unfortunatly I do not have time or internet ability to
download CAPS, so I
> was wondering if someone could give me a little help
here.
> The creme coloured leather in my car is very cracked and has
multiple
holes
> in it. I got it that way. I would like to keep the
stock leather as it has
> those nice little holes in it and it matches the
interior nicely, so is
> there a part number for the leather seat covers,
or do I have to buy the
> whole seat (in which case I would not). Or would
it be better to go get
the
> car re-upholstered?
>
> Thank
you for your help :)
>
> Donald Ashby
> '93 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 07:07:21
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leather Seats, Help please!
I have a biege leather seat cover
from a 93 vr-4 that is in perfect
condition for $100. Mike S
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 06, 2002 7:43 AM
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Leather Seats, Help
please!
> Donald,
> I'm not trying to pitch
the company or anything, but a group of us from
> here and 3si.org have a
group buy going for 4 new leather/vinyl (same
> content as OEM) through
leatherseats.com. The thread's link is below.
For
> reference the
dealership will charge you ~$700 per seat vs. ~ $600 through
> the group
buy. If your interested, take a look at the thread.
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78694>
Dan Johnson
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald
Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>
To: "team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:01 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Leather Seats,
Help please!
>
>
> > Unfortunatly I do not have time or
internet ability to download CAPS, so
I
> > was wondering if someone
could give me a little help here.
> > The creme coloured leather in my
car is very cracked and has multiple
> holes
> > in it. I got it
that way. I would like to keep the stock leather as it
has
> > those
nice little holes in it and it matches the interior nicely, so is
> >
there a part number for the leather seat covers, or do I have to buy the
>
> whole seat (in which case I would not). Or would it be better to go
get
> the
> > car re-upholstered?
> >
> > Thank
you for your help :)
> >
> > Donald Ashby
> > '93
3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:14:03
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Leather Seats, Help please!
While re-reading my message it
appears that we're only saving $100. What I
meant to say is that for
~$600 we're getting 4 brand new seat covers
(driver, front passenger, and
rear seats) vs. the dealers price of ~$700 for
one seat.
Dan
Johnson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 07:34:17
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leather Seats, Help please!
Sorry--left out that it was the
paasengers side front seat cover. Mike S
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To:
"Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 06, 2002 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Leather Seats, Help
please!
> I have a biege leather seat cover from a 93 vr-4 that is in
perfect
> condition for $100. Mike S
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 7:43 AM
> Subject: Fw: Team3S: Leather
Seats, Help please!
>
>
> > Donald,
>
> I'm not trying to pitch the company or anything, but a
group of us
from
> > here and 3si.org have a group buy going for 4
new leather/vinyl (same
> > content as OEM) through
leatherseats.com. The thread's link is below.
> For
> >
reference the dealership will charge you ~$700 per seat vs. ~
$600
through
> > the group buy. If your interested, take a
look at the thread.
> >
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78694>
> Dan Johnson
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>
> To: "team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:01 AM
> > Subject: Team3S: Leather
Seats, Help please!
> >
> >
> > > Unfortunatly I
do not have time or internet ability to download CAPS,
so
> I
>
> > was wondering if someone could give me a little help here.
>
> > The creme coloured leather in my car is very cracked and has
multiple
> > holes
> > > in it. I got it that way. I would
like to keep the stock leather as it
> has
> > > those nice
little holes in it and it matches the interior nicely, so
is
> >
> there a part number for the leather seat covers, or do I have to
buy
the
> > > whole seat (in which case I would not). Or would it
be better to go
get
> > the
> > > car
re-upholstered?
> > >
> > > Thank you for your help
:)
> > >
> > > Donald Ashby
> > > '93 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 12:43:24
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Team3S: Can running WAY rich: Undrivable
I have now not had my ONLY car
for over a month now. A week ago I finally
gave up trying to fix this
myself and towed it a shop I trust. The
problem is the car is running
entirely too rich. So rich, that the BRAND
NEW NGK copper racing plugs
I just installed are completly fouled up with
about 30 minutes of engine run
time and about 1/2 mile on them. So they
are being replaced with
cheaper Bosch ones until the car is running again.
I don't understand why
the car is running so rich. Even if my o2 sensors were not
working at
all, I don't think it could cause THAT much of an imbalance if
A/F...could
it?
What else could be causing this. So far neither my shop nor I
can figure
out why it is doing this.
Please
Help...
Thanks,
Chris Cook
1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:10:40
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Thanks for the
instrucitons. I checked the MFI code last night, and it's a
code
43: Exhaust Gas Recirculation. The only surprise here is that
it
didn't come on sooner; I blocked off and removed the EGR over two
months
ago, when I installed my 450 injectors. Don't think it's related
to the
problem, as EGR is only active at cruise.
Can the CEL
blinker report out multiple codes? If the EGR code were stored,
would
it prevent another code from being reported?
More information (for all
you eager spectators): I hooked up my boost gauge
in line between the
FPR solenoid and the FPR, just to confirm it's not
blocking boost pressure
from being added to the fuel pressure. Boost looked
normal at this
location, so the FPR solenoid is looking fine.
- - Brian
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002
6:33 AM
To: 'Geddes, Brian J'; Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J
[SMTP:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 6:15
PM
> To: Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Suddenly running leaner at WOT
>
> Come on guys, I was hoping for a
LITTLE more response than this! :) I
> thought it was a pretty
interesting problem...I'll add a few more details
> in
> the hope of
cultivating some interest.
>
> In concert with this problem
(described below), a check engine light has
> come on. I haven't yet
figured out how to read the diag codes on my '94.
> I'll look in a
friend's manual tonight and try to grab the code.
>
[Willis,
Charles E.] Please read to the end - you want to get the
MFI code
...
Okay, the three day weekend gave me a chance to look up how to read
the ECS
trouble codes with a voltmeter.
1. Find the datalink
connector under the dash in the driver's side.
A. 1ST GENERATION -
connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12. Pin 3 is the
third down on the left
side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower
right corner.
B.
2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is
the
third from the top left side of the connector ( on the log side of
the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.
2. Turn the
ignition on.
3. Look at the voltmeter. The code is repeated
many times. Seven (7)
short deflections is code =0, and means
everything is wonderful.
4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short
= 11, G sensor bad.
2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor
open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open
These codes don't disappear
until ingnition switch is off, even if you fix
the problem.
5.
These codes disappear when you correct the problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front
Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear
right shock
6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left shock
MFI trouble codes are
read in a similar manner, but different pins.
FIRST GENERATION - connect
+ to pin 1, - to pin 12.
SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and
watch the CHECK ENGINE light
flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes
(1.5 sec) are tens digit,
short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit. That
gets you the same codes you
would read on the Scan Tool.
You clear
codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting
and idling
the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't return.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 12:21:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
I've never had multiple codes
from a VR4, but with my GSX, multiple
error codes were delivered one code
after another until all were signalled,
and then the series repeated several
times.
Chuck
> Can the CEL blinker report out multiple
codes? If the EGR code were
> stored,
> would it prevent
another code from being reported?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:11:10
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
I've wanted to check my fuel
pressure under boost, but wasn't sure how to do
it while driving. You
think a tire pressure gauge hooked up with some
rubber hosing would do the
trick? I suppose it wouldn't be very safe to run
such a device into the
cabin, but mounted outside the windshield might work.
>I suspected
that my fuel pressure regulator solenoid might be causing the
>problem,
perhaps closing during boost and preventing the FPR from
seeing
the
>boost pressure. To test the theory, I bypassed the
FPR solenoid and ran
the
>vacuum lines straight from the plenum to the
FPR. No dice - the symptoms
>are still the same.
Can you tap
a tire pressure gauge into the fuel line? Run a long line to
the top of the
hood, attach a gauge to it, and drive like that. See what it
is reading. I
would use a $2-dollar non-peak-hold gauge from WalMart.
Attach the gauge
and the fuel line really well. You should see something
around 58 psi at 15
psi of boost.
Check out your intake for leaks. A leak between the MAS and
the turbos
would also cause your car to run
lean.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 15:37:56
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Here you go again, answering
your own questions.
:-)
Make sure you find a good hose that could
safely hold 58 psi.
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------
I've wanted to check my
fuel pressure under boost, but wasn't sure how to
do
it while
driving. You think a tire pressure gauge hooked up with some
rubber
hosing would do the trick? I suppose it wouldn't be very safe
to
run
such a device into the cabin, but mounted outside the windshield
might
work.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 15:48:55
-400
From:
ukyo@speedfactory.netSubject:
Re: Fw: Team3S: Leather Seats, Help please!
Dan -
This is
not a true statement. The factory seats (at least in my 1994 VR-4) are
full leather. My friend took his '92 Stelath RT to the same guy I am
having my work done at. He inspected the seats and said that the inserts
were leather, but the rest were vinyl. I took my car to him and he
inspected the seats only to find that every part of my seats are leather.
I am having them re-done with a vinyl / leather combo to save money ($300 total
for both fronts and the rear in two tone charcoal / beige including the cover
installation charge!).I am having mine re-done as I type this. He said to
go full leather like they were would be closer to $500 for his service.
IMO, it's quite a steal. I already got the back seat back and it looks
really, really good.
Just a little FYI on the top of the line seats... at
least in '94.
- -- Travis
1994 3000GT VR-4
1997 Eclipse
GSX
> Donald,
> I'm not trying to pitch the
company or anything, but a group of us from
> here and 3si.org have a
group buy going for 4 new leather/vinyl (same
> content as OEM) through
leatherseats.com. The thread's link is below. For
> reference
the dealership will charge you ~$700 per seat vs. ~ $600 through
> the
group buy. If your interested, take a look at the thread.
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78694>
Dan Johnson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 16:04:16
-0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <
cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stereo questions
Thanks for all the replies. Good stuff and
just what I expected after even
just a little exposure to the group. A FUP
question and comments.
Q27 (!). Looks like there are factory double din
CD players (In series 2
cars, by Infinity?) Think I saw on Ebay. Will all of
these (assuming there
is more than one type - series 1 cars like mine maybe
as well?) be a
straight plug in to my 1992 SL? Assuming I can find a working
used one of
course. Getting desperate for CD but not sure I want to blow this
months
food budget on a new installation....yet. If so, what do they run
used?
Comments.
I've found several times that factory speakers can
actually perform
adequately with a decent clean CD source at the helm. No
more farting around
at the low and high ends any more. When I was based in
Rockville, MD, an
installer there said forget about upgrading your Volvo 850
Turbo tape/radio
Premier sound system - just hook up a 6 pack Alpine changer
and marvel at
the difference....
Same guys more or less refused to
take money for new in dash tweeters for my
aging Mk2 Golf, when I I wanted to
replace the factory paper cones. They
said that even $100 (the most you could
spend given the odd size if I
remember right) would barely produce any
improvement. They said this is not
always the case, but you have to remember
that all we see is a paper cone in
a hole, but what often happens is the
manufacturer spends serious bucks (by
our standards i.e millions) to get the
best possible bang per buck from the
system. Just throwing $200 in speakers
at two holes may not always get you a
whole lot.....
Thanks again, and
look forward to the replies on the CD head unit question
BTW A few of you
asked about the 1992 Convertible bit. It's a Coach Builders
(of Gainesville,
FL) conversion, not a Straman. Pics available on request.
Andre
92
3000 GT SL Convertible
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
[mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 2:23 PM
To:
cerri@intersystems.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Stereo questions
I'll toss in my coin here as I just
replaced dash and door speakers plus
added an Infinity BassLink 200 watt self
powered subwoofer several weeks
ago.
I THINK the changer in our VR-4s
is a Pioneer. You would have to look on the
back panel of the head unit to
see if there is a DIN connection for the
changer. Most likely, there isn't
and you would be best off going with a
changer that does RF
modulation.
There are 6 plugs on the back of my head unit. One for the
telescoping
antenna, one for the rear window antenna (comprising the
"Diversity System"
for getting best possible RF reception), one for the main
wiring harness,
one for the anti-theft, and 2 DIN connectors, one going to
the CD changer
and one going to the amp.
I had a 10 pack changer in a
Ford F150 that used this hookup and it was
great. I've seen 6 pack CD
changers with this RF modulator for under $90.
Although the factory amp
in my car isn't exactly what I would call
fantastic, it certainly works just
fine. I think it is 210 watts. My problem
was that my dash speakers were
shot. After finding several candidates to
replace them with, I settled on the
JBL GTO220, which is a 2.5" cone with a
1" titanium tweeter. So that gives me
two way in the dash and covers from
300-21Khz. Then I discovered that my left
side door speaker wasn't pumping
out hardly any sound. So after looking long
and hard at the Infinity Kappa
63.2, 63.3 and all their other recent
permutations, I decided on going with
a straight 6.5" midrange speaker since
I already had the high end covered
with the dash speakers. Kicker R6c is
their 6.5" midrange that has a cone in
the middle which unscrews so that you
could screw a tweeter in to the center
to have a coax speaker. Kicker R6c to
each door. One weird thing that I
notice is that the left door speaker puts
out more volume at a given level
than does the right side. Rear 6x9 speakers
were still kicking so I left
them for now, although I did tear them
completely out to photograph and
measure. One thing that I have done that is
really sweet is to add a bunch
of Roadkill (like DynaMatt) dampening material
to the bare metal sections of
the rear strut towers, inside the 6x9 speaker
boxes, on the floor behind the
front seats, under the carpet, covered the
metal under the spare tire,
covered the rear deck under where I installed the
BassLink and behind the
door speakers on the outer panel of the doors. Cuts
down on road noise by a
pretty decent margin.1
Although the BassLink
has inputs for both RCA and line-level, I spliced a
line output converter
onto the wiring harness at the amp so that I could
fine tune the level to the
BassLink and use RCA patch cords for the run to
the rear. The BassLink turns
the entire rear end of the VR-4 into a huge
speaker box. I have the controls
set down to almost a minimum and it is
still thumpin' loud...
Were
there some 3000GT with an 8 speaker system? Yours is a convertible with
4
speakers?
As far as replacing the whole kit and caboodle, it is
pretty
straightforward. After pulling the trim ring from the head unit, 4
screws
come out and you pull the head unit. If I was going to replace that
much,
I'd rewire with larger gauge speaker wire too.
on 5/29/02
1:00 PM, Andre Cerri at
cerri@intersystems.com
scribbled:
> New to the list and 3000GTs so 'scuse the dumb questions
or if these have
> been posted before....email me direct if
appropriate.
>
> 92 3000GT SL.
> Comes with a complex stereo
with tape, and a CD jack. Stereo appears to be
a
> bunch of preset
modes and equaliser settings. Doesn't sound too bad
> considering it's age
and FM. My reference point though is higher end
Alpine
> head units and
amps so need to know what upgrades will be worth it.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:53:58
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Make sure that you use a gauge
designed for fuel.
Mark
'91RT/TT
>From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>To:
team3s@team3s.com>Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
>Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 15:37:56
-0400
>
>
>Here you go again, answering your own
questions.
>:-)
>
>Make sure you find a good hose that could
safely hold 58
psi.
>
>Philip
>
>---------------------------------------------
>
>I've
wanted to check my fuel pressure under boost, but wasn't sure how
to
>do
>it while driving. You think a tire pressure gauge
hooked up with some
>rubber hosing would do the trick? I suppose it
wouldn't be very safe to
>run
>such a device into the cabin, but
mounted outside the windshield might
>work.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 20:03:09
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Plugs
I'm going on the old "only stupid question is the one you
don't ask",
but this one is stupid still... :-)
I bought a plug gauge,
a circular one with a ramp around the outside, so
you can set whatever gap
you want. Two questions: how do I bend the
electrode down - I've just been
putting the gauge in the palm of my
hand, and the plug up against it - it
works, but seems rather crude. And
the other one is how do I read the gauge -
do I read the mark that's up
against the outside, or try to figure out where
the middle is?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95
Vr4
SBC-iD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 19:55:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Kian Habib <
ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
colors?
I'm currently looking at a 96' VR-4. It seems to be a
pretty
good deal but the color is kind of unusual. It
is a purple color. Does anyone
know what the official
name of this color is? I'm worried that this
strange
color has been painted on and I'm also worried that
down the road
this color will be difficult to find if
I want to touch something up.
I
have a couple other questions. The dealer said that
there was no 60k service
was done )car has 71 on it).
What exactly should I ask him to do for the
60k
service or what amount should I have him take off the
price? I was
also wondering what advantages or
disadvantages there would be for buying a
96 instead
of a 97? thank you all very much!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#862
***************************************