Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, June 5
2002 Volume 01 : Number
861
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Jun 2002 22:18:47 -0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dealer says cleaned injectors "flow too much fuel"
Yup - after
further investigation they said it was an "Injector Circuit"
code - which I
assume was a 41.
Absolutely nothing to do with flow - and a pretty basic
thing to diagnose.
They don't seem to know what to do - yet the service
manual clearly states
how to diagnose a faulty injector circuit when you get
that code.
I won't bore you with the details of how they "can't do any
deeper
diagnostics, because its not ODBII, and its not a Dodge - its a
Mitsubishi,
you know" (He really said that).
The manual tells
how to test each injector circuit, but regardless, they'll
still have to pull
the plenum back off again to fix whichever one is faulty,
and I'll probably
end up paying for it. I would have thought the tech would
test the coil
resistance of the injectors before he re-installed them, but I
guess
not. (or worse - he just didn't put a connector on properly).
They
topped it off by saying I would have been better off by letting them
run
their "special injector cleaner" through them instead of sending them to
RC
Engineering.
Argh.
Steve C.
92 R/T TT (0 miles in 2.5
years!)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer says cleaned
injectors "flow too much fuel"
> Steve,
>
> I think most
people know I think 99.999% of dealers are incompetent at
best
> when
working on our cars. And this is just one more example>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
> To: "Stealth
ML" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 6:50 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Dealer says cleaned
injectors "flow too much fuel"
> I had a local Dodge dealer do a 60k
tune-up and some other misc items. I
> sent the injectors to
RC Engineering to have them cleaned. Now the dealer
> is claiming
that the Check Engine light is on because the injectors are
> "flowing too
much fuel", and they asked if I had them bored out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:25:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
The 712? How is that considered
a race tire?
Race tires are considered to be under a treadwear rating of
60.
(technically)
On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, Stephen H. Simonds
wrote:
> I autocross with the front tires at 38 - 40 and the rears at
34 - 35
> psi. I am running Kumho Supra 712 street/race tire -
245/45R17. I have
> very little sidewall rollover on the fronts and
absoutely none on the
> rear - all the forces are on the front
tires.
>
> I run 30 rear and 32-33 front for day-to-day driving on
the same tires.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield
parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 21:47:12
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT
List
Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday,
June 04, 2002 4:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter
Suggestions
> I am looking to add a Volt Meter to my 1997 VR-4, since
the Turbo Model
doesn't have one. I would like to add an Amp Meter but
only
> want to use the one gauge pod.
>
> I was looking at a
really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but
they are really
expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
> another $25 for the
mount. I can't afford that.
>
> Can you give me some
suggestions and pricing ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
>
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've
been running a $40 Autometer amp meter in a $25
A pillar pod for 2 or 3
years, I mounted it on the
passenger wide. Works fine and comes
in handy since
I also have the UD pulley. 2 1/16" size.They have
the
black or white faces.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 23:00:46
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
I have 245/45 17 inch Avon ZZ1 tires on my
SL for 2 years now. Ive always
kept them at bout 38-40 psi with even
treadwear and what seems to me like a
better ride. To be honest, the psi
recommended by mitsu makes my tires
schreech when turning sharply. at 40 psi
they dont do that.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 22:19:50
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: sbc-id
Just wanted to let everyone know that I've put in my
sbc-id and since I
went a little picture happy, I'll be putting up
instructions soon.
Wanted to say thanks to all those who helped me
through my first (:-D)
install, and especially to Roger for his website - I
did most of the
install based his instructions for the DSBC (the installation
of which
happens to be almost identical).
Alex
'95 VR4
Blitz
SBC-iD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 14:29:32
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark plugs (was Logging a '95 3S with LabJack)
Spark plug
brands, online sources, and much, much more info are available on
my web
page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
May 29, 2002 12:11 AM
Subject: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with
LabJack
<snip>
1) What are those "copper plugs" that I could buy
for a dollar a piece? I
need to know the brand, the heat range and where to
buy them.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 07:41:40
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS new dress up product for the engine bay
I will keep this short
and sweet. Aluminum very nice addition to the
custom cover plates...hides
those ugly three plugs on the plenum.
20 shipped with bolts to the
48
here is the link on 3si.org and they are on ebay as
well.....might
not want to use ebay.......they like paying to much for things
:)
bobk.
9399R/T
make this all one line......
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=717bf55d3bc175e32978dd979baee89a&postid=682068#post682068
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 07:50:28
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
Dan...
FWIW...I have two sets
of rubber on 18" factory chrome rims. I tend to use one set for the street and
open track (the Michelin's) and one for the drags (Yokohamas). I run 42 psi on
the front, 38 psi on the rear on both for the street or open track. Wear seems
even. I lower the pressure to 20 psi on the Yokohamas for the 1/4
mile.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC
560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb
pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors,
Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs,
strut tower bars, anti-sway bars, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on factory 18" chromed
wheels)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Hyde
[mailto:danielhyde@attbi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:34 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
<snip> question
myself (once again) about the pressure I should be
carrying for a VR4
considering the wheels/tires size, weight and I suppose
driving style
("brisk" street). Thought since I'm always wondering I'd post
the question.
<snip>
Best regards
Dan
97 VR4 Pearl White
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 07:57:11
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
Jerry...
As I just wrote in a
previous post, I run 42 on the front, 39 on the rear and have been doing so ever
since steel belted radials were developed. Perhaps there was some risk of
"blowing up" a tire back in the pre-70s when all tires were bias ply tires, but
I doubt most listmembers even remember those days. The sidewall rating on every
performance tire I've bought in the last 20 years has a max pressure of at least
44 psi. What tires do you sell that have a 35 psi rating??? Hard rubber (300+
treadwear rating) used by little old ladies for their Lincolns or for "green"
drivers who want maximum economy? Why would the manufacturer list a maximum
pressure that would endanger the life of the tire and/or
driver???
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jerry B. [mailto:scorpman@optonline.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
June 04, 2002 6:46 PM
To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
You should really look to see that the
max tire pressure on the tires are,,
i work for a tire shop and if you go 40
and the tires are rated for 35 max,,
you are going to blow them up,, also
there is no reason to run more hen
32-35 psi in your tires on our cars.. you
will loose traction and handleing
not to mention woof the
tires..
Jerry 93 Stealth RT?TT & 92 Stealth E/S
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:46:39
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Break-in Question
Aright well barring any unforeseen
problems the shop working on my car will
be starting the rebuild in 2-3 weeks
(I have about 2 more days work to
finish the tear down). They said it should
only take them about 3 weeks to
complete :)
Now onto the important
stuff, I am going to be using JE forged pistons and
Crower Rods (yes a 2G
crank is sitting on my bedroom floor) but I want to
know if I can do the
engine break in on synthetic engine oil? Reason I ask
is I really do
not want to send dino juice through my nice new ETE32's (
bigger than
TD05-18G's but smaller than 20G's)
Could I maybe run a synthetic blend?
I really do not want to have to do a
turbo swap after the fact but if that is
the list recommendation then I will
do it
Russ
F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 19:17:56
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Break-in Question
ETE32? That is an interesting choice
considering that our (one-half) engine
flow at any boost from 4000-8000 RPM
is barely on the compressor flow map for
the T04E-50 trim and can never even
get into the peak efficiency island. :)
I'm looking forward to seeing how
these work out for you. Take a look at my
web page below for engine demand
lines superimposed on the smaller ETA12 (T04B-
S trim) flow map.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htmAnyway,
I have copied some comments from Road & Track in my web page below
about
using synthetic oil for engine break-in.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htmQuote:
"... several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil,
among
these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper." The conclusion seems to
be
that manufacturers that provide synthetic oil in their engines from the
factory (and hence during owner break-in) can do so because the ring and
block
metallurgy, and cylinder wall finish are optimized for this. If you
must have
synthetic oil during break-in, you should discuss this with your
engine
builder and be sure the cylinder wall hone is correct for our
(harder-than-
usual nickel-alloy) steel block and your choice of piston
rings.
Personally, I don't see any harm coming to the new turbo center
section using
standard oil during break-in because you should not be
stressing the turbos
during that time anyway. Stress meaning overheating the
oil in the turbo CHRA
leading to coking.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
"'Team 3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Engine Break-in
Question
Aright well barring any unforeseen problems the shop working on
my car will
be starting the rebuild in 2-3 weeks (I have about 2 more days
work to
finish the tear down). They said it should only take them about 3
weeks to
complete :)
Now onto the important stuff, I am going to be
using JE forged pistons and
Crower Rods (yes a 2G crank is sitting on my
bedroom floor) but I want to
know if I can do the engine break in on
synthetic engine oil? Reason I ask
is I really do not want to send dino
juice through my nice new ETE32's (
bigger than TD05-18G's but smaller than
20G's)
Could I maybe run a synthetic blend? I really do not want to have
to do a
turbo swap after the fact but if that is the list recommendation then
I will
do it
Russ F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:27:44
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Break-in Question
Thanks Jeff, I meant to type
ETE22's (damn my fingers work faster than my
brain) As for the
break in I don't plan on being on the turbos's hard but
things happen ;) and
by the 3K mile mark I am going to be chomping at the
bit to roll hard through
3+4
I will have to check with my guy or AAM about what oil I should
use.
Russ F
CT
P.S. Jeff if it is not too much trouble could
you superimpose the engine
demand onto the flow map and send it to me?
I would try it but my last
adventure in photoshop was a disaster
:/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[SMTP:jlucius@stealth316.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 3:18
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine Break-in Question
>
> ETE32? That is an
interesting choice considering that our (one-half)
> engine
> flow
at any boost from 4000-8000 RPM is barely on the compressor flow map
> for
> the T04E-50 trim and can never even get into the peak efficiency
island.
> :)
> I'm looking forward to seeing how these work out for
you. Take a look at
> my
> web page below for engine demand lines
superimposed on the smaller ETA12
> (T04B-
> S trim) flow
map.
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm>
> Anyway, I have copied some comments from Road & Track in my web
page below
>
> about using synthetic oil for engine break-in.
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm>
> Quote: "... several major brands come from the factory with synthetic
oil,
>
> among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper." The
conclusion seems
> to
> be that manufacturers that provide
synthetic oil in their engines from the
>
> factory (and hence
during owner break-in) can do so because the ring and
> block
>
metallurgy, and cylinder wall finish are optimized for this. If you must
>
have
> synthetic oil during break-in, you should discuss this with your
engine
> builder and be sure the cylinder wall hone is correct for
our
> (harder-than-
> usual nickel-alloy) steel block and your
choice of piston rings.
>
> Personally, I don't see any harm coming
to the new turbo center section
> using
> standard oil during
break-in because you should not be stressing the
> turbos
> during
that time anyway. Stress meaning overheating the oil in the turbo
> CHRA
> leading to coking.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:30:05
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Break-in Question
Edit try ETA22........ Yes I
am a vegetable today, and people are trusting
me with their money
:o
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 3:28 PM
> To: 'Jeff Lucius';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Break-in Question
>
> Thanks Jeff, I
meant to type ETE22's (damn my fingers work faster than my
>
brain) As for the break in I don't plan on being on the turbos's hard
but
> things happen ;) and by the 3K mile mark I am going to be chomping
at the
> bit to roll hard through 3+4
>
> I will have to
check with my guy or AAM about what oil I should use.
>
> Russ
F
> CT
>
> P.S. Jeff if it is not too much trouble could you
superimpose the engine
> demand onto the flow map and send it to me?
I would try it but my last
> adventure in photoshop was a disaster
:/
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:03:45
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone at Brainerd?
I hear there was a black VR4 at Brainerd on
Monday as part of a private track rental. Only 15 cars showed up. Was that VR4
somebody on this list?
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 16:37:39
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
acceleration
alright im experiencing an acceleration lag. i cleaned
my throttle body. i
was messing around with the throttle screw.
was that a bad idea? could
anyone tell me how many times to turn the screw
to get it back to normal? i
recently installed a borla cat back and
ek2 downpipe. could the acceleration
be the loss of tourqe?
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT
NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 21:25:38
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ETA22 turbo (was Engine Break-in Question)
The ETA22 turbo
from Extreme Turbo uses the T04B V-trim compressor. Using the
published
Garrett flow map, I converted mass flow to cfm (volume flow) and
superimposed the air demand lines for a modified engine. Photoshop is not
used. I use MS Excel to calculate the lines and place labels and I insert an
appropriately scaled image of the flow map into the
"background".
Load the interpreted flow map for the ETA12 (T04B S-trim)
first into your
browser, then load the ETA22 (T04B V-trim) GIF. Use the
browser back and
forward buttons to compare the two.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/to4b-strim-jlspec.gifhttp://www.stealth316.com/images/to4b-vtrim-jlspec.gifAs
you can see, "theoretically" these two turbos are sized too large for "1.5"
liter engines. They will work if RPM are kept high and VE is improved, but
lag
and surge should be major problems (look at the surge line).
These figures and engine demand lines show that any flow above 500 cfm
(per
turbo, any turbo) is basically unusable in our engines unless RPM
exceed 8000
and pressure ratio exceeds 3.0 (28 psi boost).
Look at
the image below to see the demand lines when volumetric efficiency is
100%
at all RPM, which represents the maximum (but impossible with current
technology) flow from our engines.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/td05h-16glarge-jlspec100ve.gifSee
my web page below for details on the engine demand lines and interpreting
compressor flow maps.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 05, 2002 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Break-in
Question
Edit try ETA22........
<snip>
> P.S. Jeff if
it is not too much trouble could you superimpose the engine
> demand onto
the flow map and send it to me? I would try it but my last
>
adventure in photoshop was a disaster :/
<snip>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:43:21
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
acceleration
For the past week or so i've noticed an acceleration
lag. between 1500 and
3200 rpms its really slow at WOT. when i
press the pedal half way it climbs
faster it seems. i cleaned the
throttle body today, and i also was messing
with the throttle idle
screw. could that of messed anything up. i turned
the screw a
certain way and i believe the car had the take off that it once
had but then
i touched the screw agian and messed it all up. does anyone
know what
the right setting it for that screw? any tricks with the throttle
body? i
use 93 coastal gas all the time.
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT
NA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:06:30
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: 1995 Wrecked Was-Near-Mint Black VR-4
I had a buyer, but his
financing didn't come through, so the car is for up
for sale as is, where is
(between Tacoma and Olympia, WA). I will make
every effort to provide
any information requested by serious buyers.
Further, I will be happy to ship
the car at the buyer's expense.
This car can definitely be
repaired. It would also take little to make it
into an awesome
race/track car (no airbags, no headlight, etc.) If I had
more spare
time, I would pursue one of those options. As life would have
it, I
don't have that time; thus if someone else wants to go for it, I'll
let go of
my baby.
1995 VR-4 (JA3AN74K0SY006300, declared total loss
05/2002)
Black with Cream Leather
39,400 miles
Amazing condition before
the incident
Still drivable, motor, driveline unscathed
Frontal offset
impact(10-20mph into concrete barrier), driver's side
Nose pushed
slightly(3-6") toward passenger's side; quoted $400 by body shop
to
straighten the unibody
Extremely mild driver's rear corner impact
Airbags
deployed, but interior otherwise great
Almost new (<1000mi Firestone
Firehawk SZ50EP tires)
17" Chrome Wheels from a '95 VR-4 Spyder (not 18"
wheels)
**** Stock condition ****
Again, all my aftermarket stuff has been
removed; the car is stock with a
few minor exceptions (i.e. a few
silicon hoses instead of stock rubber
ones, 2 LEDs in the dash from my WI
system, plugged hole in y-pipe from WI
nozzle, "improved" rear
pre-cat)
Pictures from May, 2001:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/CarPictures/VR-4.htmlNote
that pictures of my car have been used by at least two
people on Autotrader
trying to sell their VR-4s... it looks
that good =)
Engine Bay Pics
from February, 2002:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/SVH/page1.htmlYou
won't find a cleaner engine bay, unless it's a show
car that's never
driven.
Other Random Pictures Before Wreck:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/Last
Pictures In Non-Wrecked Condition:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_erik.html(note
the car was pretty dirty that day since I had to
drive 50mi in the
rain to get there)
Diagram of Wreck:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/Diagram.jpgDuring
and Immediately After Wreck:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page0_oops.htmlCleaned
Up Further (Current Condition):
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/CleanedUp/page1.htmlDamage
(not complete, but to give you an idea):
-
------------------------------------------------
Front Bumper and
Cover
Radiator Support
Headlight Baskets
Driver's Headlight
Hood,
Hood Latch
Passenger Front Fender
Driver's
Intercooler
Airbags
Windshield (from passenger airbag)
1 bent wheel
(driver's rear)
Dented Rear Driver's Quarter Panel
Radiator plastic "peg"
mounts broken
Oil Cooler lines bent
P/S line crimped, hose popped off,
fluid gone
Accessory Belts removed (AC/Alt by wreck; P/S by me)
Active
Aero Dam
Alternator Pulley
Maybe A/C Compressor Pulley
Other stuff in
the general area of the front driver's corner
-
------------------------------------------------
I have the complete
maintenance history for this vehicle(original window
sticker, all dealer
records, etc.), and my obsessiveness over my cars can be
verified by talking
to any of the numerous list members who I have talked
with, met, and helped
over the last 4 years of my involvement with the
3000GT/Stealth
community. I am also an honest guy and will tell
you
anything/everything I know about the car at your request.
The car
saw 1 track day, 2 Autocross schools, 3 Autocross Events, and 8,000
street
miles in the year I owned/drove it. I did enjoy the car, but I
never
abused it (no launching, no speed shifting, no e-brake turns, etc.) and
it
was maintained meticulously.
This car made a conservative 291ft*lbs
of torque (4600RPM) and 288HP
(6300RPM) at the wheels running 0.8kg/cm^2 in
February, 2002, as measured by
the Road Dyno device. This was over an
average of 4 runs, all of which were
within 5hp/ft*lbs of each other from
2000 to 6900RPM. They were also
consistent with another 2G VR-4 tested
the same day.
The suspension is in excellent condition, and the tranny
shifts like butter.
There are NO synchro issues with this transmission.
There is a tiny leak in
the tranny casing (hadn't pinpointed it yet) that
yields 1-2 drops on the
ground every 2-3 drives... not a big deal, but
in the spirit of full
disclosure. Also, the transfer case input and
output seals were replaced
last fall as part of isolating the source of the
tranny fluid leak.
The interior is in amazing condition. There is a
little wear on the outer
bolster on the driver's seat (common on these cars),
but other than that,
the leather is awesome. Same goes for the dash,
console, and other interior
parts, other than the airbags, of course.
The carpet and headliner are
clean, as are all the interior plastic/vinyl
panels.
******************************************
If you are
interested in purchasing this car from me, I need to hear from
you by Friday,
June 14th, 2002. I will not consider any offers under $5400,
and I
would like to get at least $6000 for it. Best offer over $5400 by
June
14th gets it. Slight priority will be given to anyone willing to
pick
it up without my having to go through the process of shipping it
:-)
******************************************
Thanks,
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:40:21
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FS: 1995 Wrecked Was-Near-Mint Black VR-4
One more thing I
forgot:
Similar [non-wrecked] condition/mileage VR-4s are going for
between $19,000
and $23,000 right now, depending on location and the seller's
urgency in
selling the vehicle. I've been looking for a
replacement VR-4 since March
and talked with many, many VR-4 owners/sellers
throughout the US during that
time. Further, my particular car was
valued (in stock condition) by my
[big-name, reputable] insurance company at
$22,500, based on sales data in
the Northwest region.
- --Erik
'95
Black VR-4 in wrecked condition for sale
'95 White VR-4 in non-wrecked
condition not for sale
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:53:01
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FS new dress up product for the engine bay
I loath that 3Si
website. Slow and I can never find anything there. Where
is the cover plate
there?
Philip
At 10:41 6/5/2002, ek2mfg
wrote:
>http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=717bf55d3bc175e32978dd979baee8
>9a&postid=682068#post682068
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:55:18
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FS new dress up product for the engine bay
Sorry, I meant
"loathe". With an "e".
I loathe that 3Si website. Slow and I can never
find anything there. Where
is the cover plate
there?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 16:15:27
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
Come on guys, I was hoping for
a LITTLE more response than this! :) I
thought it was a pretty
interesting problem...I'll add a few more details in
the hope of cultivating
some interest.
In concert with this problem (described below), a check
engine light has
come on. I haven't yet figured out how to read the
diag codes on my '94.
I'll look in a friend's manual tonight and try to grab
the code.
I suspected that my fuel pressure regulator solenoid
might be causing the
problem, perhaps closing during boost and preventing the
FPR from seeing the
boost pressure. To test the theory, I bypassed the
FPR solenoid and ran the
vacuum lines straight from the plenum to the
FPR. No dice - the symptoms
are still the same.
I did notice
something interesting while driving though - the leanness is
not nearly as
extreme immediately after the car has been started. I'm
hoping to do a
little more exploration on this aspect tonight. I don't know
whether
the leanness is relieved only on cold starts, or if it's on
every
startup.
I'll even make replying easier. You can start
with this: "Well Brian,
you're a dolt. The answer is obvious; the
problem is _____________". :)
Thanks,
- - Brian
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:04
AM
> To: Team3S Mailing List (E-mail); Starnet Mailing List
(E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
> All -
>
> When playing around with my VR-4 last night and watching my
> O2 readings
> (both banks), I found that I was running on the
very lean
> side of rich while
> at WOT - around .6 -.7
volts. I installed DSM 450 injectors
> and an S-AFC
> about 2
months ago, and had it tuned to run .94 - .96 volts
> across all
RPMs.
> Everytime I checked the O2 levels, the levels were exactly as
> I had tuned
> them. I first noticed that I was running a
little lean a
> couple of days
> ago, and so have been nice to the
car until I had a chance to
> check things
> out last night.
>
> Previously, I had the correction set at 16% - 21% across the
> board. In
> order to get my O2 readings back to safer
levels last night,
> I found that I
> had to change to almost NO
correction (-3%). Even with these
> new settings,
> which
should be extremely rich, my O2s are not what they were
> before. I
was
> running around .95, now I'm running high .8s to low .9s.
>
> The car pulls strong, other than what was probably
>
knock-induced timing
> retard during my initial experiments. I would
normally
> question the O2
> sensor, but both banks are giving
about the same readings so
> I don't think
> they're the
problem. The boost was steady, with no spiking
> or
creeping.
> Cruising / light driving seems fine (I didn't change the
> S-AFC settings at
> Low throttle), but that could be the ECU
compensating.
>
> Relevant car details: '94 VR-4 (California
model), Test
> Pipe, Turbo XS
> recirculating BOV, Gutted precats,
Supra Fuel Pump, MBC @ 14 PSI, 450
> Injectors, S-AFC, Iridium Plugs, new
6 weeks ago.
>
> My first guess is a fuel pressure problem, though
I do have a
> Supra pump
> installed. I'd suspect the fuel
pressure regulator vacuum
> line, but my
> boost gauge is hooked
into it, and the gauge is working
> normally. I think
> I'll
run some fuel injector cleaner, and possibly change the
> fuel filter
(I
> need to do this anyway). I don't know if these will help
> though, given how
> suddenly and drastically the conditions
changed. Maybe my
> fuel pressure
> regulator went
south?
>
> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>
>
Thanks,
> - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:41:08
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
Many tires are rated at 35 psi max.
The pressure has more to do with
the load carried than anything else.
For instance, if a tire carries
2000 lbs at 44 psi, it will only support XXXX
lbs at 30 psi. I do not
know the calculations for any of that
though... There's not much risk
in overinflating tires... If
there was, about 1/4 of DT's customers
would have blow outs... We check the
air in every single car that comes
in... 2/3's are low, a small percent
are perfect, and 1/4 are too
high.... Hell, we had ain Integra the
other day with 80 psi in all 4
tires.... he said the last time he put
air in them was over a month
ago... Regardless, max tire pressure has
more to do with load rating
than anything else...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Chris Winkley
Sent:
Wednesday, June 05, 2002 9:57 AM
To: Jerry B.;
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
Jerry...
As I just wrote in a
previous post, I run 42 on the front, 39 on the
rear and have been doing so
ever since steel belted radials were
developed. Perhaps there was some risk
of "blowing up" a tire back in
the pre-70s when all tires were bias ply
tires, but I doubt most
listmembers even remember those days. The sidewall
rating on every
performance tire I've bought in the last 20 years has a max
pressure of
at least 44 psi. What tires do you sell that have a 35 psi
rating???
Hard rubber (300+ treadwear rating) used by little old ladies for
their
Lincolns or for "green" drivers who want maximum economy? Why would
the
manufacturer list a maximum pressure that would endanger the life of
the
tire and/or driver???
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry B.
[mailto:scorpman@optonline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 6:46 PM
To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
You should really look to see that the
max tire pressure on the tires
are,,
i work for a tire shop and if you go
40 and the tires are rated for 35
max,,
you are going to blow them up,,
also there is no reason to run more hen
32-35 psi in your tires on our cars..
you will loose traction and
handleing
not to mention woof the
tires..
Jerry 93 Stealth RT?TT & 92 Stealth E/S
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 22:37:43
EDT
From:
MaxNix@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Info needed on proper offset
I'm interested in buying 18x9 SSR
GT1 wheels with 265/35 pole postion S0-3
tires for a '92 RT/TT. The car has
stock brakes, but i'm going to be ugrading
in the future. Should I reduce
the offset or stay with stock offset ?
TIA
Paul
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#861
***************************************
