Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Tuesday, June 4 2002     Volume 01 : Number 860




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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:29:05 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration

Check the throttle cable in the engine compartment.  I found that mine
was sagging and full throttle was no longer full throttle which changes
everything.  Check to make sure it is somewhat tight.
 
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com [mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:21 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
 
A few fuels have detergents in them, such as amoco gold 93 octane. it
cleans
the injectors every time the fuel is sprayed. By your 60,000 mile tune
up,
the injectors will be much cleaner then if just using regular,
non-detergent
gas.

Ive always used it in the 3000GT, but my dad had a similiar problem in
his 93
altima. The car had 78,000 miles, but had lagging accelteration.. . it
felt
like a boat anchor attached to the flywhheel. I know the 2 cars pretty
different, but after he got the injectors cleaned and switched to amoco,
the
car ran great for well over 100,00 before he sold it.

good luck
- -mike
97 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:49:45 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Open Track Rain Report

> Very unnerving.  Rain driving comments in our cars would be appreciated.
>
[Willis, Charles E.]  About half of our open track events in
Southeast Texas involve some rain.  Driving in the rain is a terrific
opportunity to learn how to drive smoothly.  Our cars are less prone to loss
of control in conditions of reduced traction than rear wheel drive cars -
I'm guessing you would've been completely off-track in a rear wheel drive
car.

1.  A wet track affects traction in an insidious way - it decreases
grip for accelleration a bit, for straight-line braking a bit more, but a
whole bunch for cornering.  You get lulled into a false sense of security
because you can still accellerate and brake in a straight line, but when you
put some conereing load on the tires, they slide.

2.  Different tires handle water and puddles differently.  I have
only driven Yoko AO32R's on the track and they do well in rain.  I don't
think that street tires are going to perform as well, even all-weather
tires.

3.  One of the tricks to driving in the rain is to slow down weight
transfer.  There are several ways to do this - a) soften the suspension - I
run ECS in Tour for rain.  b) slow down your inputs - steer in slow motion,
slow down your application of brakes and throttle.

4.  Another trick is to learn rain lines - don't drive through
puddles, especially where they collect at the apex of the turn - displace
the apex.  Look for grip in other areas of the track than the standard line.
Late apexes are generally safer because they put less cornering load on the
tires.  There is a technique nicknamed "rimshot" where you follow the
outside edge of the track like a basketball rolling around the edge of the
hoop.  This is a larger radius (read faster) turn than the middle of the
track, but slower than the ideal radius.

5.  Begin adding throttle LATER in the turn like after the apex when
the car is straighter.

6.  Watch out for places where gravity transfers weight to the front
wheels, like a downhill part of the track.  In the dry, my car's rear seldom
gets loose, but in the rain there is a particularly nasty downhill part that
bothers rear wheel drive cars even in the dry.

Thanks for asking!

Chuck Willis  

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:39:23 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Interferance Motor! (OT)

> Remembering the days of 150+ on I-5,
[Willis, Charles E.] 
we're talking km/hr here, right?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:11:53 -0400
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Local parts reccomendations

You can get the parts list for the 60k maint from team3s.com pages.

I've used this dealer for parts: http://www.dodgeparts.cc/

They offer about 24% off the parts list price for web orders.  I don't know
if the team3s discounts with other vendors are greater than that or not.

If you're not in a hurry I can sell you my tensioner pulley socket wrench
(MD998752-01) in a week or so when I get it back from my dealer.

Steve C.
92 R/T TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sheehan" <Johns@KYSO.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 6:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Local parts reccomendations

>       I am located in the Santa Cruz/San Jose CA. and have just pulled
> my 93 VR-4 from storage. I have only a K/N installed. I am looking for a
> good source of parts locally for doing my 60K service. I am also looking
> for sources for used/ dismantlers in the area or close by. Initially a
> Driver seat and mis. inside parts. By the way, how do I tell my interior
> color code number and exterior paint number ? Also looking for some one
> locally that wants some one to work through or help each other with
> upgrades. I have multiple Race cars  and most equipment to do
> repairs/upgrades. But am new to these cars.
> Thank you! john

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:06:55 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: I-5 speeds (was: Interferance Motor!)

Charles...

I'm not sure who wrote the original post, but I've regularly made the
run on Interstate Five south between Sacramento, California and Los
Angeles, California with my cruise control set at 125 (mph) and have run
stretches of it with speeds in excess of 145 (mph). The road surface is
flat, extremely well maintained, and the California drivers (unlike
Oregon drivers) stay to the right unless they're passing.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top, Magnecore 8.5mm
wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1" drop
progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway bars, Michelin SX MXX3
Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:39 PM
To: 'MerisaPDX@aol.com'; riyan@hotpop.com
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Interferance Motor! (OT)

> Remembering the days of 150+ on I-5,
[Willis, Charles E.] 
we're talking km/hr here, right?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:17:01 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration

Rene...

Welcome to the list!!!

I don't have a NA Stealth, but it seems to me that attempting to accelerate at rpms below 3,000 would likely produce hesitation. I rarely drive any vehicle below 4,000 rpm (unless cruising at high speeds on a flat road) but would always downshift to get back in the power band (4,500 to 5,500 rpm) if I was intending to accelerate. I'm not sure where the redline is on a NA, but it's a good thing to run your car up to it with some regularity. Constant low rpm driving and shifting will produce unwanted carbon deposits.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway bars, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Schmied, Rene [mailto:Rene.Schmied@gov.ab.ca]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 2:51 PM
To: 'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'
Subject: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration

I recently signed on to your site and really enjoy reading/receiving all the
information.

I have a 1994 Stealth RT non Turbo with 132,000 kilometers, occasionally
(about 10-15 % of the time) the car experiences poor acceleration
(hesitating and mild vibrations similar, but not exactly what is experienced
when shifting to soon) on harder (not flat out) accelerations.

The problem typically occurs when the vehicle is at operating temperature
and the rpms are low (below 3000). The symptoms are more frequent if the car
has been driven at a constant speed for a period of time before
accelerating. The problem is rarely experienced when
acceleration/deceleration/acceleration is frequent.

The car had the full tune up last summer including new timing chain, fuel
filter, spark plugs and wires, and injector cleaning. A K & N air filter was
installed last summer as well and is clean.

Any help is very much appreciated.

thanks

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 10:04:19 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT

All -

When playing around with my VR-4 last night and watching my O2 readings
(both banks), I found that I was running on the very lean side of rich while
at WOT - around .6 -.7 volts.  I installed DSM 450 injectors and an S-AFC
about 2 months ago, and had it tuned to run .94 - .96 volts across all RPMs.
Everytime I checked the O2 levels, the levels were exactly as I had tuned
them.  I first noticed that I was running a little lean a couple of days
ago, and so have been nice to the car until I had a chance to check things
out last night. 

Previously, I had the correction set at 16% - 21% across the board.  In
order to get my O2 readings back to safer levels last night, I found that I
had to change to almost NO correction (-3%).  Even with these new settings,
which should be extremely rich, my O2s are not what they were before.  I was
running around .95, now I'm running high .8s to low .9s. 

The car pulls strong, other than what was probably knock-induced timing
retard during my initial experiments.  I would normally question the O2
sensor, but both banks are giving about the same readings so I don't think
they're the problem.  The boost was steady, with no spiking or creeping.
Cruising / light driving seems fine (I didn't change the S-AFC settings at
Low throttle), but that could be the ECU compensating.

Relevant car details:  '94 VR-4 (California model), Test Pipe, Turbo XS
recirculating BOV, Gutted precats, Supra Fuel Pump, MBC @ 14 PSI, 450
Injectors, S-AFC, Iridium Plugs, new 6 weeks ago.

My first guess is a fuel pressure problem, though I do have a Supra pump
installed.  I'd suspect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, but my
boost gauge is hooked into it, and the gauge is working normally.  I think
I'll run some fuel injector cleaner, and possibly change the fuel filter (I
need to do this anyway).  I don't know if these will help though, given how
suddenly and drastically the conditions changed.  Maybe my fuel pressure
regulator went south? 

Thoughts?  Suggestions?

Thanks,
- - Brian

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 11:56:45 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 18" Mitsu VR4 Wheels...

I'm pretty sure that they were from different years. I have one wheel like
that on my 95 while the other 3 are smooth.

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

on 6/2/02 11:39 AM, Gil Gomes at gil@3kgt.com scribbled:

>   I just purchased a used set of 18" Mitsubishi VR4 wheels from a private
> party.  I notice that the area around the lugs has a sandblasted effect.
> The remainder of the wheels are shiny chrome and in excellent condition.  Is
> this sandblasted effect normal on these wheels?  Did some years have the
> effect while others didn't?  Or were these wheels re-chromed with this
> "feature" added at that time?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:24:06 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer says cleaned injectors "flow too much fuel"

Steve,

I think most people know I think 99.999% of dealers are incompetent at best
when working on our cars. And this is just one more example. If the injectors
are flowing what RC claims then the injectors are not the problem. When RC
cleaned my stock injectors they ended up flowing ~380 cc/min each. I had no
CEL or had any other recognizable driveability problems. Look elswhere for the
cause of the CEL. BTW, there is no malfunction code for "too much fuel". :)
Have the dealer show you the code number and then go look it up in your
manual. Code 14 (OBDI) is for the injectors but the ECM is only testing for
resistance in the injector circuit.

RCE report:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-rc_inj_380.htm

Fuel injectors
http://www.stealth316.com/2-injectortypes.htm

Fuel injection control
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
To: "Stealth ML" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Dealer says cleaned injectors "flow too much fuel"

Hey all,

I've been dormant for the last six months while my 92 Stealth R/T TT was in
the shop - its almost done but I've run into a classic dealer "its not our
fault so you need to pay more" kind of thing.

I had a local Dodge dealer do a 60k tune-up and some other misc items.   I
sent the injectors to RC Engineering to have them cleaned.  Now the dealer
is claiming that the Check Engine light is on because the injectors are
"flowing too much fuel", and they asked if I had them bored out.  (Which I
didn't).

The paperwork from RC engineering shows them all flowing between 358 & 362
cc/min.  From previous posts I understand that the ECU can accommodate up to
a 16% variation from stock (which is 360 cc/min, right?).  I can't see any
way the my cleaned injectors could flow enough fuel to kick on the Check
Engine condition.

The Service Manager said he'd talk with a tech at RC Engineering that said
he may have some suggestions, although the service guy sounded like he
figured he was wasting his time.

There must be some other reason for this?  Anyone have any ideas?  Would it
help anyone if I got the exact error code from the ECU?

I REALLY don't want to pay the dealer to pull the injectors back out and
send them to RC Engineering to verify that they are flowing exactly as they
originally said.  The Dealer is saying, of course, that if I pay for them to
install new injectors the problem will go away.

Help, Thanks,

Steve C.
92 Stealth R/T TT (original owner)
93 Toyota MR2 Turbo
96 Impala SS
70 Dodge Charger R/T

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:33:23 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?

In the last year, Sport Compact Car has run an excellent series of articles
concerning turbos. In their latest one, they show why clipping is a very bad
idea. In addition to the balancing issues mentioned, SCC claims clipping
reduces the turbine-side efficiency. The SCC article explains it graphically.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <romachka21@netscape.net>
To: <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?

Since I am ordering TEC 15G turbos instead of DR650,
I wanted to know why do people port and clip turbos?
<snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:38:15 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions

I am looking to add a Volt Meter to my 1997 VR-4, since the Turbo Model doesn't have one.  I would like to add an Amp Meter but only
want to use the one gauge pod.

I was looking at a really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but they are really expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
another $25 for the mount.  I can't afford that.

Can you give me some suggestions and pricing ?

Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 23:51:18 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions

Not a solution but a question :

What do you want the volt or even ampere-meter for ? Do you have any
problems with the alternator or battery ? We do have a pretty healthy power
system (not like my Z28) and I don't see why you need one.

Just curious

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To: "Team 3S List Submissions" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT List
Submissions" <Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions

> I am looking to add a Volt Meter to my 1997 VR-4, since the Turbo Model
doesn't have one.  I would like to add an Amp Meter but only
> want to use the one gauge pod.
>
> I was looking at a really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but
they are really expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
> another $25 for the mount.  I can't afford that.
>
> Can you give me some suggestions and pricing ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 18:24:10 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions

At 17:38 6/4/2002, anthonymelillo wrote:
>I was looking at a really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but
>they are really expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
>another $25 for the mount.

Do you have a pic of that expensive gauge pod? I am wondering what an
$80-dollar gauge pod would look like.
:-O

Today I leafed through a Sport Compact Car issue and saw this gauge
http://carbontrix.com/DSC00021.JPG sitting atop the dash very nicely. I
hoped that it would fit just as nicely above the 3S stock gauge trio, but
now I think it may not because the distance between each of the gauger is
about 1/2" smaller than between the stock gauges. But their dual pod design
might work better.

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:58:40 -0400
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S: Intrax Springs

I just bought a set of intrax springs for my 97 3KGT base.  Was this a good
decision?  Are they to bouncy?

Thanks,
Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:33:51 -0500
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

This morning I had the displeasure of a flat on the way to work. Must have
picked up some kind of debris which sliced the valve stem. (based on a
couple fresh scrapes inside my LF wheel). Now fixed but as I was remounting
the thing and checking tire pressures all the way around it caused me to
think and question myself (once again) about the pressure I should be
carrying for a VR4 considering the wheels/tires size, weight and I suppose
driving style ("brisk" street). Thought since I'm always wondering I'd post
the question. Other than the times I'm intentionally abusing my tires, I try
to retain as much life out of them as possible by keeping after the air
pressure checks.

My ride:
1997 VR4
Enkie Wheels - VIA 18x9JJ 42  690KG (Weight: 47 lbs with tire)
Nito NT 555 - 245/40 ZR18 93W
Tread Life: LF - 4/32, RF - 5/32, LR - 6/32, RR - 6/32  (LF looks like it's
wearing outside of tire)

I believe Mitsu indicates tire pressure spec is Front/Rear 35psi/32psi
(stock)

According to Nitto Web site, the inflation pressure should be Front/Rear
32psi/29psi
http://www.nittotire.com/tiretech_fitment.asp?mk=MITSUBISHI&mdl=739
Tire Size: 245/40ZR18 93W
Tread Depth: 10.2 (1/32")
Inflated overall Diameter: 25.67 In.
Dimensions Overall Width: 9.72
Approved Rim size: 8.0-(8.5)-9.5
Max Load Pressure: 1433@44
Revs per Mile: 811

Wheel size/width and tire size/profile seem to vary the pressure spec
recommendation.
For the time being, I've changed to go with the Nitto site recommendation
32/29 but...I wonder?

Best regards
Dan
97 VR4 Pearl White

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:45:33 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

The 32/29 is the pressure spec for my 1st Gen Stealth.  Not sure if it works
for a 2nd Gen car like yours.  You can look at the information plate on your
driver's side door.  It should tell you the stock tire sizes and pressure.

If you want to really fine tune your tire pressure then you will need a pyro
meter.  By reading the tread temperatures after an "average" driving
session, you can fine tune your suspension and tire pressure.  I don't know
if you want to go that detailed with it since you are just doing street
driving so I won't go into detail on it.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
lines.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 20:55:33 -0400
From: Lorne Silkes <vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 18" Mitsu VR4 Wheels...

I think some years had that sandblasted effect.  I had a set that I bought
used were the same way.
Ac ouple were shiny and a couple were sandblasted.  Don't know what years
were which way or even if it was a running change or not.

Lorne
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@3kgt.com>
To: "team3s stealth-3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 1:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: 18" Mitsu VR4 Wheels...

>     I just purchased a used set of 18" Mitsubishi VR4 wheels from a
private
> party.  I notice that the area around the lugs has a sandblasted effect.
> The remainder of the wheels are shiny chrome and in excellent condition.
Is
> this sandblasted effect normal on these wheels?  Did some years have the
> effect while others didn't?  Or were these wheels re-chromed with this
> "feature" added at that time?
>
> Any info would be greatly appreciated...
> Thanx...
> -G

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 21:06:55 -0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions

Anthony,
   I was just thinking about the HKS turbo timer.  This might be an option
you'd consider since the Dakota is so expensive.  The HKS measures the
voltage of the system.  And, you can get the Type 0 for $71 + S&H and a
harness for $12.  Then you get a voltage meter and a turbo timer.
Just a thought,
Dan Johnson

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To: "Team 3S List Submissions" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT List
Submissions" <Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions

> I am looking to add a Volt Meter to my 1997 VR-4, since the Turbo Model
doesn't have one.  I would like to add an Amp Meter but only
> want to use the one gauge pod.
>
> I was looking at a really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but
they are really expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
> another $25 for the mount.  I can't afford that.
>
> Can you give me some suggestions and pricing ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
> http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:22:53 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: erratic coolant temp changes (sorry, kinda long)

I had similar problems with my 1986 Ford Bronco.  I was able to fix erratic
coolant readings by changing out the thermostat.  Shortly after that while
on one of the hottest stretches of highway in Arizona my POS Bronco decided
to throw the water pump belt, well that caused the entire thing to boil over
and it ruptured a safety plug thingy in the water pump and I had to replace
that too.  So you might want to change out your thermostat, and also check
all of your belts while you're under the hood.

Searching through the archives I came accross this post which may be of some
help getting a thermostat:

   "Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:44:32 -0800
    From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
    Subject: Team3S: thermostat

    FWIW ---- the thermostat went out on my 93 TT yesterday so I embarked on
    a quest to find a new thermostat --- ye Gods, the great Satan wanted $60
US.
    Who in the hell are these people and why do they hate me ?!?!?!?

    Several auto parts outfits didn't show a replacement but I found one in
a local
    shop --- it looks identical to the stock unit down to the spot welds ---
price,
    $17.

    The moral of the story is --- don't use satan, look around.

        Jim Berry"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 9:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: erratic coolant temp changes (sorry, kinda long)


> Hey guys,
>
> It's the old stealth again. I'm about to take her in for a 60k tune-up
> somewhere far away to this guy that knows the car. It was sitting in front
> of my house for like 2 weeks since I've heard horror stories of people
> bending their valves by not doing their tune of exactly at 60k (I'm about
> 6000 miles overdue and I'm convinced not to run it except for the purpose
of
> getting that timing belt changed). Anyway, I had to start it and move it
> today so my friend could take my spot. The battery was dead (strange
huh?),
> and after it was jumped and charged, I noticed the coolant temps changing
> erraticaly. At first I thought it was a loose contact or something because
> it was absolutely ridiculous. It would change from middle to red zone to
> middle in a matter of 5 or 10 seconds. So I took her on the freeway. She
did
> the same strange oscillation like 4 or 5 times. At this point I was sure
it
> was something electrical. After all, how could the temp change so quickly?
I
> was driving at night too!  Then, as I pulled out in front of my house and
> waited for the turbos to cool down like usual, it shot up again. I
> thought.... no biggie. this is the sixth time in probably a 10 minute
> period. But guess what. I started smelling oil burning and heard a popping
> noise from my hood... yes... boiling coolant. The coolant level was fine,
> but the car was boiling in this cool weather. So I stopped it, and now I
> barely even have the guts to drive to the mitsu dealer that's 3 miles
away!
> I'm sure I hurt my turbos having to turn her off HOT like that :( No
choice
> though.
>
> This car does have a history of leaking a small amount of coolant (like
> half the overflow bottle every month or so) but it general it doesn't boil
> over. Only once about 2000 miles ago(when the coolant level was really low
> and the radiator cap gasket was mangled) it started boiling over.
Afterward,
> I replaced the radiator cap gasket and filled up the coolant. It ran like
a
> champ for about 2000 miles and now this weird stuff's going on. Does it
make
> sense for coolant temps to change significantly in SECONDS....literally?
> Perhaps I have a bad sensor AND a leak... Would an intermittent pressure
> leak alone do it? Perhaps the pressure would leak, and since it leaked the
> engine would boil over. Then it would somehow get sealed momemtarily and
> repeat the process? That's my two cents worth anyway. I'd hate to take my
> baby to the local satan, but I'm definetely not driving across more than
50
> miles like I had planned until I get a handle on things. Any ideas? I'd
> really appreciate it.
>
> Riyan Mynuddin
> 1993 stealth rt/tt
>
> my ride:
> www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:27:04 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

I am using the stock size tires/wheels on my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice I've
been told that I should be running at around 40 psi by tire shops.  Are they
trying to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
tires???

I went out and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and the tires look like
they're really low in pressure (like halfway flat).  It still drives ok, is
40 ok or am I going to blow them up?

- -Erik
'91 Stealth

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>; "Team3S" <Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

> The 32/29 is the pressure spec for my 1st Gen Stealth.  Not sure if it
works
> for a 2nd Gen car like yours.  You can look at the information plate on
your
> driver's side door.  It should tell you the stock tire sizes and pressure.
>
> If you want to really fine tune your tire pressure then you will need a
pyro
> meter.  By reading the tread temperatures after an "average" driving
> session, you can fine tune your suspension and tire pressure.  I don't
know
> if you want to go that detailed with it since you are just doing street
> driving so I won't go into detail on it.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
> Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
> Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
> lines.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:55:21 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

> I am using the stock size tires/wheels on my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice
I've
> been told that I should be running at around 40 psi by tire shops.  Are
they
> trying to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
> tires???
>
> I went out and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and the tires look like
> they're really low in pressure (like halfway flat).  It still drives ok,
is
> 40 ok or am I going to blow them up?
>
> -Erik
> '91 Stealth

I doubt they are trying to sabotage your car.  There is an old and true rule
of thumb that goes with tire pressure:  It is better to have more than
needed pressure than less than needed pressure.  Tire grip deteriorates
drastically as the pressure is lowered below optimal pressure.  On the high
side, grip deteriorates but very slowly as tire pressure is increased.  They
may just be looking at the vehicle weight and figuring that you need more
pressure.  Most people on the track run their tires with 10 psi higher
pressure than stock or 42/39.  Running your tires at 40psi shouldn't hurt
them.  It may over time wear the center of the tire more.  If you don't feel
comfortable with stock pressure then go higher.  Just keep an eye on your
tread wear.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
lines.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:45:46 -0400
From: "Jerry B." <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

You should really look to see that the max tire pressure on the tires are,,
i work for a tire shop and if you go 40 and the tires are rated for 35 max,,
you are going to blow them up,, also there is no reason to run more hen
32-35 psi in your tires on our cars.. you will loose traction and handleing
not to mention woof the tires..

Jerry 93 Stealth RT?TT & 92 Stealth E/S
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>; "Team3S"
<Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question


> > I am using the stock size tires/wheels on my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice
> I've
> > been told that I should be running at around 40 psi by tire shops.  Are
> they
> > trying to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
> > tires???
> >
> > I went out and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and the tires look
like
> > they're really low in pressure (like halfway flat).  It still drives ok,
> is
> > 40 ok or am I going to blow them up?
> >
> > -Erik
> > '91 Stealth
>
> I doubt they are trying to sabotage your car.  There is an old and true
rule
> of thumb that goes with tire pressure:  It is better to have more than
> needed pressure than less than needed pressure.  Tire grip deteriorates
> drastically as the pressure is lowered below optimal pressure.  On the
high
> side, grip deteriorates but very slowly as tire pressure is increased.
They
> may just be looking at the vehicle weight and figuring that you need more
> pressure.  Most people on the track run their tires with 10 psi higher
> pressure than stock or 42/39.  Running your tires at 40psi shouldn't hurt
> them.  It may over time wear the center of the tire more.  If you don't
feel
> comfortable with stock pressure then go higher.  Just keep an eye on your
> tread wear.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
> Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
> Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
> lines.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:14:31 -0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question

I autocross with the front tires at 38 - 40 and the rears at 34 - 35
psi.  I am running Kumho Supra 712 street/race tire - 245/45R17.  I have
very little sidewall rollover on the fronts and absoutely none on the
rear - all the forces are on the front tires.

I run 30 rear and 32-33 front for day-to-day driving on the same tires.

Erik Petterson wrote:
>
> I am using the stock size tires/wheels on my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice I've
> been told that I should be running at around 40 psi by tire shops.  Are they
> trying to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
> tires???
>
> I went out and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and the tires look like
> they're really low in pressure (like halfway flat).  It still drives ok, is
> 40 ok or am I going to blow them up?
>
> -Erik
> '91 Stealth
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
> To: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>; "Team3S" <Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
>
> > The 32/29 is the pressure spec for my 1st Gen Stealth.  Not sure if it
> works
> > for a 2nd Gen car like yours.  You can look at the information plate on
> your
> > driver's side door.  It should tell you the stock tire sizes and pressure.
> >
> > If you want to really fine tune your tire pressure then you will need a
> pyro
> > meter.  By reading the tread temperatures after an "average" driving
> > session, you can fine tune your suspension and tire pressure.  I don't
> know
> > if you want to go that detailed with it since you are just doing street
> > driving so I won't go into detail on it.
> >
> >
> > Doug
> > 92 Stealth RT TT
> > Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
> > Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
> > lines.

- --
Regards, SS - Funny, I don't remember being absent minded.
- ----------------------------------------------------------
email:simonds@sgi.com          |
      shsimon@sandia.gov       |  Sandia (505) 284-6657
SGI Federal INC.               |  Mobile (505) 459-4246
- ----------------------------------------------------------

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #860
***************************************