Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 4
2002 Volume 01 : Number
860
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:29:05 -0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
Check the throttle cable in the engine
compartment. I found that mine
was sagging and full throttle was no
longer full throttle which changes
everything. Check to make sure it is
somewhat tight.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:21 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
A few fuels have detergents in
them, such as amoco gold 93 octane. it
cleans
the injectors every time the
fuel is sprayed. By your 60,000 mile tune
up,
the injectors will be much
cleaner then if just using regular,
non-detergent
gas.
Ive always
used it in the 3000GT, but my dad had a similiar problem in
his 93
altima.
The car had 78,000 miles, but had lagging accelteration.. . it
felt
like a
boat anchor attached to the flywhheel. I know the 2 cars pretty
different,
but after he got the injectors cleaned and switched to amoco,
the
car ran
great for well over 100,00 before he sold it.
good luck
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:49:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
> Very unnerving. Rain
driving comments in our cars would be appreciated.
>
[Willis, Charles
E.] About half of our open track events in
Southeast Texas involve some
rain. Driving in the rain is a terrific
opportunity to learn how to
drive smoothly. Our cars are less prone to loss
of control in
conditions of reduced traction than rear wheel drive cars -
I'm guessing you
would've been completely off-track in a rear wheel drive
car.
1.
A wet track affects traction in an insidious way - it decreases
grip for
accelleration a bit, for straight-line braking a bit more, but a
whole bunch
for cornering. You get lulled into a false sense of security
because
you can still accellerate and brake in a straight line, but when you
put some
conereing load on the tires, they slide.
2. Different tires handle
water and puddles differently. I have
only driven Yoko AO32R's on the
track and they do well in rain. I don't
think that street tires are
going to perform as well, even all-weather
tires.
3. One of the
tricks to driving in the rain is to slow down weight
transfer. There
are several ways to do this - a) soften the suspension - I
run ECS in Tour
for rain. b) slow down your inputs - steer in slow motion,
slow down
your application of brakes and throttle.
4. Another trick is to
learn rain lines - don't drive through
puddles, especially where they collect
at the apex of the turn - displace
the apex. Look for grip in other
areas of the track than the standard line.
Late apexes are generally safer
because they put less cornering load on the
tires. There is a technique
nicknamed "rimshot" where you follow the
outside edge of the track like a
basketball rolling around the edge of the
hoop. This is a larger radius
(read faster) turn than the middle of the
track, but slower than the ideal
radius.
5. Begin adding throttle LATER in the turn like after the
apex when
the car is straighter.
6. Watch out for places where
gravity transfers weight to the front
wheels, like a downhill part of the
track. In the dry, my car's rear seldom
gets loose, but in the rain
there is a particularly nasty downhill part that
bothers rear wheel drive
cars even in the dry.
Thanks for asking!
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:39:23
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Interferance Motor! (OT)
> Remembering the days of 150+
on I-5,
[Willis, Charles E.]
we're talking km/hr here,
right?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:11:53
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Local parts reccomendations
You can get the parts list for the
60k maint from team3s.com pages.
I've used this dealer for parts:
http://www.dodgeparts.cc/They offer
about 24% off the parts list price for web orders. I don't know
if the
team3s discounts with other vendors are greater than that or not.
If
you're not in a hurry I can sell you my tensioner pulley socket
wrench
(MD998752-01) in a week or so when I get it back from my
dealer.
Steve C.
92 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "John Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 03, 2002 6:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Local parts
reccomendations
> I am located in
the Santa Cruz/San Jose CA. and have just pulled
> my 93 VR-4 from
storage. I have only a K/N installed. I am looking for a
> good source of
parts locally for doing my 60K service. I am also looking
> for sources
for used/ dismantlers in the area or close by. Initially a
> Driver seat
and mis. inside parts. By the way, how do I tell my interior
> color code
number and exterior paint number ? Also looking for some one
> locally
that wants some one to work through or help each other with
> upgrades. I
have multiple Race cars and most equipment to do
> repairs/upgrades.
But am new to these cars.
> Thank you! john
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:06:55
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: I-5 speeds (was: Interferance Motor!)
Charles...
I'm
not sure who wrote the original post, but I've regularly made the
run on
Interstate Five south between Sacramento, California and Los
Angeles,
California with my cruise control set at 125 (mph) and have run
stretches of
it with speeds in excess of 145 (mph). The road surface is
flat, extremely
well maintained, and the California drivers (unlike
Oregon drivers) stay to
the right unless they're passing.
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle
body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel
controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex
EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers,
trunk mounted Optima Red Top, Magnecore 8.5mm
wires, NGK double platinum
plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing
disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS
brake lines, Eibach 1" drop
progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway
bars, Michelin SX MXX3
Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002
12:39 PM
To:
'MerisaPDX@aol.com';
riyan@hotpop.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Interferance Motor! (OT)
> Remembering the days of 150+
on I-5,
[Willis, Charles E.]
we're talking km/hr here,
right?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:17:01
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
Rene...
Welcome to the list!!!
I don't have a NA Stealth, but it seems to me that attempting to
accelerate at rpms below 3,000 would likely produce hesitation. I rarely drive
any vehicle below 4,000 rpm (unless cruising at high speeds on a flat road) but
would always downshift to get back in the power band (4,500 to 5,500 rpm) if I
was intending to accelerate. I'm not sure where the redline is on a NA, but it's
a good thing to run your car up to it with some regularity. Constant low rpm
driving and shifting will produce unwanted carbon deposits.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake,
bored and polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck
racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS
brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway
bars, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Schmied, Rene
[mailto:Rene.Schmied@gov.ab.ca]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 2:51 PM
To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
I recently signed on to your site and
really enjoy reading/receiving all the
information.
I have a 1994
Stealth RT non Turbo with 132,000 kilometers, occasionally
(about 10-15 % of
the time) the car experiences poor acceleration
(hesitating and mild
vibrations similar, but not exactly what is experienced
when shifting to
soon) on harder (not flat out) accelerations.
The problem typically
occurs when the vehicle is at operating temperature
and the rpms are low
(below 3000). The symptoms are more frequent if the car
has been driven at a
constant speed for a period of time before
accelerating. The problem is
rarely experienced when
acceleration/deceleration/acceleration is
frequent.
The car had the full tune up last summer including new timing
chain, fuel
filter, spark plugs and wires, and injector cleaning. A K & N
air filter was
installed last summer as well and is clean.
Any help is
very much appreciated.
thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 10:04:19
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Suddenly running leaner at WOT
All -
When playing around
with my VR-4 last night and watching my O2 readings
(both banks), I found
that I was running on the very lean side of rich while
at WOT - around .6 -.7
volts. I installed DSM 450 injectors and an S-AFC
about 2 months ago,
and had it tuned to run .94 - .96 volts across all RPMs.
Everytime I checked
the O2 levels, the levels were exactly as I had tuned
them. I first
noticed that I was running a little lean a couple of days
ago, and so have
been nice to the car until I had a chance to check things
out last
night.
Previously, I had the correction set at 16% - 21% across
the board. In
order to get my O2 readings back to safer levels last
night, I found that I
had to change to almost NO correction (-3%). Even
with these new settings,
which should be extremely rich, my O2s are not what
they were before. I was
running around .95, now I'm running high .8s to
low .9s.
The car pulls strong, other than what was probably
knock-induced timing
retard during my initial experiments. I would
normally question the O2
sensor, but both banks are giving about the same
readings so I don't think
they're the problem. The boost was steady,
with no spiking or creeping.
Cruising / light driving seems fine (I didn't
change the S-AFC settings at
Low throttle), but that could be the ECU
compensating.
Relevant car details: '94 VR-4 (California model),
Test Pipe, Turbo XS
recirculating BOV, Gutted precats, Supra Fuel Pump, MBC @
14 PSI, 450
Injectors, S-AFC, Iridium Plugs, new 6 weeks ago.
My first
guess is a fuel pressure problem, though I do have a Supra
pump
installed. I'd suspect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line,
but my
boost gauge is hooked into it, and the gauge is working
normally. I think
I'll run some fuel injector cleaner, and possibly
change the fuel filter (I
need to do this anyway). I don't know if
these will help though, given how
suddenly and drastically the conditions
changed. Maybe my fuel pressure
regulator went south?
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks,
- -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 11:56:45
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 18" Mitsu VR4 Wheels...
I'm pretty sure that they were from
different years. I have one wheel like
that on my 95 while the other 3 are
smooth.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 6/2/02 11:39 AM,
Gil Gomes at
gil@3kgt.com
scribbled:
> I just purchased a used set of 18" Mitsubishi
VR4 wheels from a private
> party. I notice that the area around the
lugs has a sandblasted effect.
> The remainder of the wheels are shiny
chrome and in excellent condition. Is
> this sandblasted effect
normal on these wheels? Did some years have the
> effect while
others didn't? Or were these wheels re-chromed with this
> "feature"
added at that time?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:24:06
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dealer says cleaned injectors "flow too much
fuel"
Steve,
I think most people know I think 99.999% of dealers
are incompetent at best
when working on our cars. And this is just one more
example. If the injectors
are flowing what RC claims then the injectors are
not the problem. When RC
cleaned my stock injectors they ended up flowing
~380 cc/min each. I had no
CEL or had any other recognizable driveability
problems. Look elswhere for the
cause of the CEL. BTW, there is no
malfunction code for "too much fuel". :)
Have the dealer show you the code
number and then go look it up in your
manual. Code 14 (OBDI) is for the
injectors but the ECM is only testing for
resistance in the injector
circuit.
RCE report:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-rc_inj_380.htmFuel
injectors
http://www.stealth316.com/2-injectortypes.htmFuel
injection control
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
To: "Stealth ML"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 03, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Dealer says cleaned injectors
"flow too much fuel"
Hey all,
I've been dormant for the last six
months while my 92 Stealth R/T TT was in
the shop - its almost done but I've
run into a classic dealer "its not our
fault so you need to pay more" kind of
thing.
I had a local Dodge dealer do a 60k tune-up and some other misc
items. I
sent the injectors to RC Engineering to have them
cleaned. Now the dealer
is claiming that the Check Engine light is on
because the injectors are
"flowing too much fuel", and they asked if I had
them bored out. (Which I
didn't).
The paperwork from RC
engineering shows them all flowing between 358 & 362
cc/min. From
previous posts I understand that the ECU can accommodate up to
a 16%
variation from stock (which is 360 cc/min, right?). I can't see any
way
the my cleaned injectors could flow enough fuel to kick on the Check
Engine
condition.
The Service Manager said he'd talk with a tech at RC
Engineering that said
he may have some suggestions, although the service guy
sounded like he
figured he was wasting his time.
There must be some
other reason for this? Anyone have any ideas? Would it
help
anyone if I got the exact error code from the ECU?
I REALLY don't want to
pay the dealer to pull the injectors back out and
send them to RC Engineering
to verify that they are flowing exactly as they
originally said. The
Dealer is saying, of course, that if I pay for them to
install new injectors
the problem will go away.
Help, Thanks,
Steve C.
92 Stealth R/T
TT (original owner)
93 Toyota MR2 Turbo
96 Impala SS
70 Dodge Charger
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:33:23
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?
In the last year, Sport Compact
Car has run an excellent series of articles
concerning turbos. In their
latest one, they show why clipping is a very bad
idea. In addition to the
balancing issues mentioned, SCC claims clipping
reduces the turbine-side
efficiency. The SCC article explains it graphically.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <
romachka21@netscape.net>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Porting &
Cliping?
Since I am ordering TEC 15G turbos instead of DR650,
I wanted
to know why do people port and clip turbos?
<snip>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:38:15
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions
I am looking to add a Volt Meter
to my 1997 VR-4, since the Turbo Model doesn't have one. I would like to
add an Amp Meter but only
want to use the one gauge pod.
I was looking
at a really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but they are really
expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
another $25 for the mount. I
can't afford that.
Can you give me some suggestions and pricing
?
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 23:51:18
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions
Not a solution but a question
:
What do you want the volt or even ampere-meter for ? Do you have
any
problems with the alternator or battery ? We do have a pretty healthy
power
system (not like my Z28) and I don't see why you need one.
Just
curious
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT
List
Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday,
June 04, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter
Suggestions
> I am looking to add a Volt Meter to my 1997 VR-4, since
the Turbo Model
doesn't have one. I would like to add an Amp Meter but
only
> want to use the one gauge pod.
>
> I was looking at a
really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but
they are really
expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
> another $25 for the
mount. I can't afford that.
>
> Can you give me some
suggestions and pricing ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 18:24:10
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions
At 17:38 6/4/2002, anthonymelillo
wrote:
>I was looking at a really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital
but
>they are really expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge
and
>another $25 for the mount.
Do you have a pic of that expensive
gauge pod? I am wondering what an
$80-dollar gauge pod would look
like.
:-O
Today I leafed through a Sport Compact Car issue and saw
this gauge
http://carbontrix.com/DSC00021.JPG
sitting atop the dash very nicely. I
hoped that it would fit just as nicely
above the 3S stock gauge trio, but
now I think it may not because the
distance between each of the gauger is
about 1/2" smaller than between the
stock gauges. But their dual pod design
might work
better.
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:58:40
-0400
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Intrax Springs
I just bought a set of intrax springs for my 97 3KGT
base. Was this a good
decision? Are they to
bouncy?
Thanks,
Wayne
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:33:51
-0500
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
This morning I had the displeasure of a
flat on the way to work. Must have
picked up some kind of debris which sliced
the valve stem. (based on a
couple fresh scrapes inside my LF wheel). Now
fixed but as I was remounting
the thing and checking tire pressures all the
way around it caused me to
think and question myself (once again) about the
pressure I should be
carrying for a VR4 considering the wheels/tires size,
weight and I suppose
driving style ("brisk" street). Thought since I'm always
wondering I'd post
the question. Other than the times I'm intentionally
abusing my tires, I try
to retain as much life out of them as possible by
keeping after the air
pressure checks.
My ride:
1997 VR4
Enkie
Wheels - VIA 18x9JJ 42 690KG (Weight: 47 lbs with tire)
Nito NT 555 -
245/40 ZR18 93W
Tread Life: LF - 4/32, RF - 5/32, LR - 6/32, RR - 6/32
(LF looks like it's
wearing outside of tire)
I believe Mitsu indicates
tire pressure spec is Front/Rear 35psi/32psi
(stock)
According to
Nitto Web site, the inflation pressure should be Front/Rear
32psi/29psi
http://www.nittotire.com/tiretech_fitment.asp?mk=MITSUBISHI&mdl=739Tire
Size: 245/40ZR18 93W
Tread Depth: 10.2 (1/32")
Inflated overall Diameter:
25.67 In.
Dimensions Overall Width: 9.72
Approved Rim size:
8.0-(8.5)-9.5
Max Load Pressure:
1433@44Revs
per Mile: 811
Wheel size/width and tire size/profile seem to vary the
pressure spec
recommendation.
For the time being, I've changed to go with
the Nitto site recommendation
32/29 but...I wonder?
Best
regards
Dan
97 VR4 Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:45:33
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
The 32/29 is the pressure spec for my
1st Gen Stealth. Not sure if it works
for a 2nd Gen car like
yours. You can look at the information plate on your
driver's side
door. It should tell you the stock tire sizes and pressure.
If you
want to really fine tune your tire pressure then you will need a
pyro
meter. By reading the tread temperatures after an "average"
driving
session, you can fine tune your suspension and tire pressure. I
don't know
if you want to go that detailed with it since you are just doing
street
driving so I won't go into detail on it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 20:55:33
-0400
From: Lorne Silkes <
vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 18"
Mitsu VR4 Wheels...
I think some years had that sandblasted
effect. I had a set that I bought
used were the same way.
Ac ouple
were shiny and a couple were sandblasted. Don't know what years
were
which way or even if it was a running change or not.
Lorne
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
To: "team3s stealth-3000gt"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, June 02, 2002 1:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: 18" Mitsu VR4
Wheels...
> I just purchased a used set of 18"
Mitsubishi VR4 wheels from a
private
> party. I notice that the
area around the lugs has a sandblasted effect.
> The remainder of the
wheels are shiny chrome and in excellent condition.
Is
> this
sandblasted effect normal on these wheels? Did some years have the
>
effect while others didn't? Or were these wheels re-chromed with
this
> "feature" added at that time?
>
> Any info would be
greatly appreciated...
> Thanx...
> -G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 21:06:55
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter Suggestions
Anthony,
I was
just thinking about the HKS turbo timer. This might be an option
you'd
consider since the Dakota is so expensive. The HKS measures the
voltage
of the system. And, you can get the Type 0 for $71 + S&H and
a
harness for $12. Then you get a voltage meter and a turbo
timer.
Just a thought,
Dan Johnson
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
To:
"Team 3S List Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "3000GT
List
Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday,
June 04, 2002 5:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: A-Pillar Voltmeter
Suggestions
> I am looking to add a Volt Meter to my 1997 VR-4, since
the Turbo Model
doesn't have one. I would like to add an Amp Meter but
only
> want to use the one gauge pod.
>
> I was looking at a
really cool mount and gauge from Dakota Digital but
they are really
expensive. They want $80 for the Gauge and
> another $25 for the
mount. I can't afford that.
>
> Can you give me some
suggestions and pricing ?
>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
>
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:22:53
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: erratic coolant temp changes (sorry, kinda long)
I had similar
problems with my 1986 Ford Bronco. I was able to fix erratic
coolant
readings by changing out the thermostat. Shortly after that while
on
one of the hottest stretches of highway in Arizona my POS Bronco decided
to
throw the water pump belt, well that caused the entire thing to boil over
and
it ruptured a safety plug thingy in the water pump and I had to replace
that
too. So you might want to change out your thermostat, and also
check
all of your belts while you're under the hood.
Searching through
the archives I came accross this post which may be of some
help getting a
thermostat:
"Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:44:32
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: thermostat
FWIW ---- the thermostat
went out on my 93 TT yesterday so I embarked on
a quest to
find a new thermostat --- ye Gods, the great Satan wanted
$60
US.
Who in the hell are these people and why do
they hate me ?!?!?!?
Several auto parts outfits didn't
show a replacement but I found one in
a local
shop ---
it looks identical to the stock unit down to the spot welds
---
price,
$17.
The moral of
the story is --- don't use satan, look
around.
Jim Berry"
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, June 02, 2002 9:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: erratic coolant temp changes
(sorry, kinda long)
> Hey guys,
>
> It's the old
stealth again. I'm about to take her in for a 60k tune-up
> somewhere far
away to this guy that knows the car. It was sitting in front
> of my house
for like 2 weeks since I've heard horror stories of people
> bending their
valves by not doing their tune of exactly at 60k (I'm about
> 6000 miles
overdue and I'm convinced not to run it except for the purpose
of
>
getting that timing belt changed). Anyway, I had to start it and move it
>
today so my friend could take my spot. The battery was dead
(strange
huh?),
> and after it was jumped and charged, I noticed the
coolant temps changing
> erraticaly. At first I thought it was a loose
contact or something because
> it was absolutely ridiculous. It would
change from middle to red zone to
> middle in a matter of 5 or 10 seconds.
So I took her on the freeway. She
did
> the same strange oscillation
like 4 or 5 times. At this point I was sure
it
> was something
electrical. After all, how could the temp change so quickly?
I
> was
driving at night too! Then, as I pulled out in front of my house
and
> waited for the turbos to cool down like usual, it shot up again.
I
> thought.... no biggie. this is the sixth time in probably a 10
minute
> period. But guess what. I started smelling oil burning and heard
a popping
> noise from my hood... yes... boiling coolant. The coolant
level was fine,
> but the car was boiling in this cool weather. So I
stopped it, and now I
> barely even have the guts to drive to the mitsu
dealer that's 3 miles
away!
> I'm sure I hurt my turbos having to turn
her off HOT like that :( No
choice
> though.
>
> This car
does have a history of leaking a small amount of coolant (like
> half the
overflow bottle every month or so) but it general it doesn't boil
> over.
Only once about 2000 miles ago(when the coolant level was really low
> and
the radiator cap gasket was mangled) it started boiling
over.
Afterward,
> I replaced the radiator cap gasket and filled up the
coolant. It ran like
a
> champ for about 2000 miles and now this weird
stuff's going on. Does it
make
> sense for coolant temps to change
significantly in SECONDS....literally?
> Perhaps I have a bad sensor AND a
leak... Would an intermittent pressure
> leak alone do it? Perhaps the
pressure would leak, and since it leaked the
> engine would boil over.
Then it would somehow get sealed momemtarily and
> repeat the process?
That's my two cents worth anyway. I'd hate to take my
> baby to the local
satan, but I'm definetely not driving across more than
50
> miles like
I had planned until I get a handle on things. Any ideas? I'd
> really
appreciate it.
>
> Riyan Mynuddin
> 1993 stealth
rt/tt
>
> my ride:
>
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:27:04
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
I am using the stock size tires/wheels on
my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice I've
been told that I should be running at
around 40 psi by tire shops. Are they
trying to sabotage me or
something so I'll have to come back and buy new
tires???
I went out
and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and the tires look like
they're really
low in pressure (like halfway flat). It still drives ok, is
40 ok or am
I going to blow them up?
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Dan
Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>;
"Team3S" <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure
Question
> The 32/29 is the pressure spec for my 1st Gen
Stealth. Not sure if it
works
> for a 2nd Gen car like
yours. You can look at the information plate on
your
> driver's
side door. It should tell you the stock tire sizes and
pressure.
>
> If you want to really fine tune your tire pressure
then you will need a
pyro
> meter. By reading the tread
temperatures after an "average" driving
> session, you can fine tune your
suspension and tire pressure. I don't
know
> if you want to go
that detailed with it since you are just doing street
> driving so I won't
go into detail on it.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,
> Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake
> lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:55:21
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
> I am using the stock size
tires/wheels on my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice
I've
> been told that I
should be running at around 40 psi by tire shops. Are
they
>
trying to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
>
tires???
>
> I went out and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and
the tires look like
> they're really low in pressure (like halfway
flat). It still drives ok,
is
> 40 ok or am I going to blow them
up?
>
> -Erik
> '91 Stealth
I doubt they are trying to
sabotage your car. There is an old and true rule
of thumb that goes
with tire pressure: It is better to have more than
needed pressure than
less than needed pressure. Tire grip deteriorates
drastically as the
pressure is lowered below optimal pressure. On the high
side, grip
deteriorates but very slowly as tire pressure is increased. They
may
just be looking at the vehicle weight and figuring that you need
more
pressure. Most people on the track run their tires with 10 psi
higher
pressure than stock or 42/39. Running your tires at 40psi
shouldn't hurt
them. It may over time wear the center of the tire
more. If you don't feel
comfortable with stock pressure then go
higher. Just keep an eye on your
tread wear.
Doug
92 Stealth
RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided
brake
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:45:46
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Question
You should really look to see that the
max tire pressure on the tires are,,
i work for a tire shop and if you go 40
and the tires are rated for 35 max,,
you are going to blow them up,, also
there is no reason to run more hen
32-35 psi in your tires on our cars.. you
will loose traction and handleing
not to mention woof the
tires..
Jerry 93 Stealth RT?TT & 92 Stealth E/S
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Erik
Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 04, 2002 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure
Question
> > I am using the stock size tires/wheels on my 1st
Gen Stealth, and twice
> I've
> > been told that I should be
running at around 40 psi by tire shops. Are
> they
> >
trying to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
>
> tires???
> >
> > I went out and changed the pressure down
to 32/29 and the tires look
like
> > they're really low in pressure
(like halfway flat). It still drives ok,
> is
> > 40 ok or
am I going to blow them up?
> >
> > -Erik
> > '91
Stealth
>
> I doubt they are trying to sabotage your car.
There is an old and true
rule
> of thumb that goes with tire
pressure: It is better to have more than
> needed pressure than less
than needed pressure. Tire grip deteriorates
> drastically as the
pressure is lowered below optimal pressure. On the
high
> side,
grip deteriorates but very slowly as tire pressure is increased.
They
>
may just be looking at the vehicle weight and figuring that you need
more
> pressure. Most people on the track run their tires with 10
psi higher
> pressure than stock or 42/39. Running your tires at
40psi shouldn't hurt
> them. It may over time wear the center of the
tire more. If you don't
feel
> comfortable with stock pressure
then go higher. Just keep an eye on your
> tread
wear.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
> Apexi AVC-R, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
> Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
>
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:14:31
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tire Pressure Question
I autocross with the front tires at 38 - 40 and
the rears at 34 - 35
psi. I am running Kumho Supra 712 street/race tire
- 245/45R17. I have
very little sidewall rollover on the fronts and
absoutely none on the
rear - all the forces are on the front tires.
I
run 30 rear and 32-33 front for day-to-day driving on the same tires.
Erik Petterson wrote:
>
> I am using the stock size
tires/wheels on my 1st Gen Stealth, and twice I've
> been told that I
should be running at around 40 psi by tire shops. Are they
> trying
to sabotage me or something so I'll have to come back and buy new
>
tires???
>
> I went out and changed the pressure down to 32/29 and
the tires look like
> they're really low in pressure (like halfway
flat). It still drives ok, is
> 40 ok or am I going to blow them
up?
>
> -Erik
> '91 Stealth
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
> To:
"Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>; "Team3S" <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 5:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure
Question
>
> > The 32/29 is the pressure spec for my 1st Gen
Stealth. Not sure if it
> works
> > for a 2nd Gen car like
yours. You can look at the information plate on
> your
> >
driver's side door. It should tell you the stock tire sizes and
pressure.
> >
> > If you want to really fine tune your tire
pressure then you will need a
> pyro
> > meter. By reading
the tread temperatures after an "average" driving
> > session, you can
fine tune your suspension and tire pressure. I don't
> know
>
> if you want to go that detailed with it since you are just doing
street
> > driving so I won't go into detail on it.
>
>
> >
> > Doug
> > 92 Stealth RT TT
> >
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow
cat,
> > Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake
> > lines.
- --
Regards, SS - Funny, I don't
remember being absent minded.
-
----------------------------------------------------------
email:simonds@sgi.com
|
shsimon@sandia.gov
| Sandia (505) 284-6657
SGI Federal
INC.
| Mobile (505) 459-4246
-
----------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#860
***************************************
