- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog
online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 00:03:09
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
erratic coolant temp changes (sorry, kinda long)
> Hey guys,
>
> It's the old stealth again. I'm about to take her in for a 60k
tune-up
> somewhere far away to this guy that knows the car. It was
sitting in front
> of my house for like 2 weeks since I've heard horror
stories of people
> bending their valves by not doing their tune of
exactly at 60k (I'm about
> 6000 miles overdue and I'm convinced not to
run it except for the purpose of
> getting that timing belt changed).
Anyway, I had to start it and move it
> today so my friend could take my
spot. The battery was dead (strange huh?),
> and after it was jumped and
charged, I noticed the coolant temps changing
> erraticaly. At first I
thought it was a loose contact or something because
> it was absolutely
ridiculous. It would change from middle to red zone to
> middle in a
matter of 5 or 10 seconds. So I took her on the freeway. She did
> the
same strange oscillation like 4 or 5 times. At this point I was sure it
>
was something electrical. After all, how could the temp change so quickly?
I
> was driving at night too! Then, as I pulled out in front of my
house and
> waited for the turbos to cool down like usual, it shot up
again. I
> thought.... no biggie. this is the sixth time in probably a 10
minute
> period. But guess what. I started smelling oil burning and heard
a popping
> noise from my hood... yes... boiling coolant. The coolant
level was fine,
> but the car was boiling in this cool weather. So I
stopped it, and now I
> barely even have the guts to drive to the mitsu
dealer that's 3 miles away!
> I'm sure I hurt my turbos having to turn her
off HOT like that :( No choice
> though.
>
> This car does
have a history of leaking a small amount of coolant (like
> half the
overflow bottle every month or so) but it general it doesn't boil
> over.
Only once about 2000 miles ago(when the coolant level was really low
> and
the radiator cap gasket was mangled) it started boiling over. Afterward,
>
I replaced the radiator cap gasket and filled up the coolant. It ran like
a
> champ for about 2000 miles and now this weird stuff's going on. Does
it make
> sense for coolant temps to change significantly in
SECONDS....literally?
> Perhaps I have a bad sensor AND a leak... Would an
intermittent pressure
> leak alone do it? Perhaps the pressure would leak,
and since it leaked the
> engine would boil over. Then it would somehow
get sealed momemtarily and
> repeat the process? That's my two cents worth
anyway. I'd hate to take my
> baby to the local satan, but I'm definetely
not driving across more than 50
> miles like I had planned until I get a
handle on things. Any ideas? I'd
> really appreciate it.
>
>
Riyan Mynuddin
> 1993 stealth rt/tt
-
----------------------------------------------------------
Riyan,
I
experienced these same symptoms not long ago but
fortunately due to the
circumstances was able to
diagnose and remedy the situation
quickly.
We had to drain my radiator for a job. (replacing
the
throwout bearing on front turbo) We refilled the
radiator and
shortly into the first drive I noticed
the same thing - temp gauge moving up
and down,
temps were warmer than usual and nearly to the red
zone, smell
of coolant. I was close to the shop
and slowly drove back. We
opened the hood and
as soon as we could open the radiator cap found
the
coolant was popping and boiling.
The problem:
*AIR POCKETS*
We
waited a while, filled, waited, started it,
filled etc until *all* of the air
was out of the
system.
Hopefully this easy to fix problem will take
care of your troubles?
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
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BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 00:08:39
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
super charger
> Me.
>
> On a 3s, no.
>
> On
Sun, 2 Jun 2002
DonBrando36@aol.com
wrote:
>
> > hey, how many people are running with a super
charger?
-
---------------------------------------------------
I installed one on my
Z-28 yesterday (Sat)
I don't think I would want want on a NA 3L V6
due
to the HP used to drive them. Better
to use on a motor with higher low
end torque
IMO. They are heavy too.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using
BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 23:35:57
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood Scoops
Did you mount them facing forward to scoop air or
facing backward to exhaust
the air? If facing forward, do you think the air
pressure at high speed
would blow them off?
edgar
91 VR-4
White
K&N FIPK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike &
Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:40 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hood Scoops
>
FYI--after searching for hood scoops to replace the blisters on my 92 rt
I
> found some from Lund. They are LD8002 parts number and are for a
Chevy
S-10
> pickup. In the catalogs they are the medium Eclipse
scoops. The
measurements
> in the catalogs are not correct. They show
14'' wide but really only
12&1/2
> wide, also you could trim a 1/4"
off each side to make a cleaner look ( I
> didn't--looks good ). The
scoops are put on by 3m tape so there is no
> drilling. They are fully
functional and do let a lot of hot air out. I'll
> try to post pictures
today. Have a great day. Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 00:35:23
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Hood Scoops
Personally, I think they'd get blown off (using as intake) if
they're only
being held on by tape. However, nothing's stopping anyone from
doing some
drilling and make a permanent fixture. However, without removing
the battery
and/or doing some re-rerouting, the hood blister openings
actually open
pretty far behind the intake. Perhaps a flexible tube, some
tiewraps, and
some kind of brace would help relocate the intake filter near
the intake.
i was surfing the web looking for hood scoops (since I am
very interested as
well) if you don't wanna move stuff around, click
this
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?image=167000-167999%2F167918_2_full.jpg
to see a stealth with a custom ram air scoop that is
positioned optimally...
now maybe i/we'll drop this guy an e-mail
Riyan
1993 stealth
rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Edgar Francisco
Sent: Sunday,
June 02, 2002 11:36 PM
To: Mike & Cathy; team3s
stealth-3000gt
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hood Scoops
Did you mount them
facing forward to scoop air or facing backward to exhaust
the air? If facing
forward, do you think the air pressure at high speed
would blow them
off?
edgar
91 VR-4 White
K&N FIPK
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:22:58
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood Scoops
Only a scoop that is directly placed to the air
filter is what helps. But
then it must be designed to prevent water flowing
directly into the filter
during rain. Oleg from Lativa did something nice
that works. Also placing
such intake openings above the struts is the wrong
place. Even for having
some exit for the hot air it isn't very
effective.
More effective is to open the air channel to the filter from
the front. One
idea is the popup-light cover from Kaze that has an opening
in the back for
delivering the gathered air into the direction to the
filter. A cheaper
solution that drilling and cutting the
hood.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:50:00
-0400
From: "SWC" <
swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Dealer says cleaned injectors "flow too much fuel"
Hey all,
I've
been dormant for the last six months while my 92 Stealth R/T TT was in
the
shop - its almost done but I've run into a classic dealer "its not our
fault
so you need to pay more" kind of thing.
I had a local Dodge dealer do a
60k tune-up and some other misc items. I
sent the injectors to RC
Engineering to have them cleaned. Now the dealer
is claiming that the
Check Engine light is on because the injectors are
"flowing too much fuel",
and they asked if I had them bored out. (Which I
didn't).
The
paperwork from RC engineering shows them all flowing between 358 &
362
cc/min. From previous posts I understand that the ECU can
accommodate up to
a 16% variation from stock (which is 360 cc/min,
right?). I can't see any
way the my cleaned injectors could flow enough
fuel to kick on the Check
Engine condition.
The Service Manager said
he'd talk with a tech at RC Engineering that said
he may have some
suggestions, although the service guy sounded like he
figured he was wasting
his time.
There must be some other reason for this? Anyone have any
ideas? Would it
help anyone if I got the exact error code from the
ECU?
I REALLY don't want to pay the dealer to pull the injectors back out
and
send them to RC Engineering to verify that they are flowing exactly as
they
originally said. The Dealer is saying, of course, that if I pay
for them to
install new injectors the problem will go away.
Help,
Thanks,
Steve C.
92 Stealth R/T TT (original owner)
93 Toyota MR2
Turbo
96 Impala SS
70 Dodge Charger R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 06:05:19
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
Hi Bill - (Are you supposed to grease them
to reduce wear?) No - the
bearings are sealed. If the grease seal integrity
has been breached the only
solution is to replace the bearing. Normal use
sometimes burns the grease
that is sealed within. As Omar pointed out, if you
drive with your foot on
the clutch (and I am not thinking of anyone in
particular - just an
observation in general), or if the clutch free play is
not adjusted right,
then the TOB will spin all the time and there is a high
likelihood it will
be damaged. Such damage sometimes results in either burned
grease or damage
to the grease seal. Also, ball bearings will wear after
being used for a
period of time. Eventually them will fail.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To: "Andrew
D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Cc: "team3/S"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TOB or broken
tranny?
| how are you supposed to grease them to reduce noise/wear
?
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
| Of Andrew D. Woll
| Sent:
Saturday, June 01, 2002 1:40 PM
| To: Riyan Mynuddin; Team3S; Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1
| Subject: Re: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
|
| Throw
out bearing rattle. - Yes, when the clutch is out the TOB should not
| be
spinning. However, because it is under no strain it will rattle due to
|
normal vibrations of the car and the spinning of the shaft that is sits
|
around. When the clutch is pushed in the first thing that happens is
that
it
| grabs the TOB face and starts it spinning. The needle bearings
become
| stressed and the rattle stops. The rattle can be the result of too
little
| grease, or a missing needle, or just wear in one or more of the
needles
| themselves. IMHO if the rattle is not too bad, and there are no
unusual
| noises when the clutch is pushed in, and the gears shift OK, then
the
| problem is either wear, or lack of grease.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:10:37
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood Scoops
I mounted the hood scoops backwards to let air
out of the engine bay. If you
were to take off your blisters and see how much
hot air comes out while the
car is sitting you could understand ,anything to
allow heat out would work.
Also if while sitting heat comes out than when
moving it only stands to
reason that as air comes in though the radiator the
scoops about even the
shock towers would be a out let for heat. If you have
ever used 3m tape you
would know how stronge the stuf is. Mike S 92 rt
tt----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 03, 2002 5:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hood Scoops
>
Only a scoop that is directly placed to the air filter is what helps.
But
> then it must be designed to prevent water flowing directly into the
filter
> during rain. Oleg from Lativa did something nice that works. Also
placing
> such intake openings above the struts is the wrong place. Even
for having
> some exit for the hot air it isn't very
effective.
>
> More effective is to open the air channel to the
filter from the front.
One
> idea is the popup-light cover from Kaze
that has an opening in the back
for
> delivering the gathered air into
the direction to the filter. A cheaper
> solution that drilling and
cutting the hood.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> At 00:35 03.06.2002
-0700, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> >Personally, I think they'd get blown
off (using as intake) if they're
only
> >being held on by tape.
However, nothing's stopping anyone from doing some
> >drilling and make
a permanent fixture. However, without removing the
battery
> >and/or
doing some re-rerouting, the hood blister openings actually open
>
>pretty far behind the intake. Perhaps a flexible tube, some tiewraps,
and
> >some kind of brace would help relocate the intake filter near
the intake.
> >
> >i was surfing the web looking for hood
scoops (since I am very interested
as
> >well) if you don't wanna
move stuff around, click
this
>
>http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?image=167000-167999%2F1
6
>
>7918_2_full.jpg to see a stealth with a custom ram air scoop that is
>
>positioned optimally... now maybe i/we'll drop this guy an e-mail
>
>
> >Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:33:44
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood Scoops
There was recently a long discussion very similar
to this one on how to
reduce underhood air temperatures.
One of the
conclusions of that discussion is that even if you face a air
scoop
backwards, it will still suck air in. This is because there is a
high
pressure area that runs over the top of the hood. Since you
already have
the scoop installed it is easy for you to test this by simply
taping yarn,
string or what not around the area and seeing which direction it
blows when
you drive.
The drawback to this is that if you draw in air
from your hood into the
engine compartment then there is less air coming in
across the radiator.
If you check the archives under "underhood temps"
then you will find all the
previous posts on the subject.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back,
high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS
braided brake
lines.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:51:26
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: supercharger
Don...
I have one (on a Honda del Sol).
Can't imagine what it would take to
squeeze one into the engine compartment
of a NA 3KGT or Stealth on top
of which I don't think anyone has a kit
available so you'd have to
develop the intake and mounting hardware for
yourself. By the time you
got done I'd guess you could've sold your NA and
bought a TT.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos,
RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top,
Magnecore 8.5mm
wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb
pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing,
ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen
cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1"
drop
progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway bars, Michelin SX
MXX3
Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels).
1994 Metallic Black Honda
del Sol (w/AEM intake, Jackson Racing
supercharger and fuel pump, Accel
wires, NGK platinum plugs, DC Sports
header, High Flow cat, Magneflow
muffler, resonator removed, 2.5"
dropped Progress springs, Tokico racing
shocks w/camber kits, front and
rear strut tower bars, front and rear
anti-sway bars, 17" six spoke dark
gray Team Dynamics alloy rims w/Yokohama
Parada rubber AND [I'm
embarrassed to say] an engine dress up kit in anodized
blue, all covers
[battery, radiator, oil, dipstick, brake fluid, even the
bolt heads],
six CD changer in the trunk, 400 watt amp, Infinity speakers).
No neon
lights yet, no coffee can exhaust. Perhaps there's hope.
:-)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
DonBrando36@aol.com
[mailto:DonBrando36@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:03 PM
To:
'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S: super charger
hey, how many people are
running with a super charger?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:44:10
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
supercharger
Can't imagine what it would take to
> squeeze one into
the engine compartment of a NA 3KGT or Stealth on top
> of which I don't
think anyone has a kit available
- --Knight Turbos makes a Supercharger
for the SOHC. Super C from 3SI has one
on his car. I believe it cost him
$4,000, but I've heard the price dropped
to $3000. He told me he dynoed it
with a (approximately) 60HP gain. I think
that was a gain to the crank and
not the wheels.--
so you'd have to
> develop the intake and
mounting hardware for yourself. By the time you
> got done I'd guess you
could've sold your NA and bought a TT.
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:05:05
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: supercharger
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris
Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
>
Don...
> I have one (on a Honda del Sol). Can't imagine what it would take
to
squeeze one into the engine compartment of a NA 3KGT or Stealth on top
of
which I don't think anyone has a kit available so you'd have to develop
the
intake and mounting hardware for yourself. By the time you got done
I'd
guess you could've sold your NA and bought a TT.
> Looking
forward...Chris
- ---------------------------->
Knight Industries
(FL) makes a number of supercharger kits for our NA cars,
complete with all
mouting hardware, belts, and detailed instructions. Matt
(at Dynamic
Racing) recommended them as being reliable units. The biggest
street
legal kit is 6psi (~60HP gain), but they make them up to 9psi.
List
prices start at $4k for the manual tranny ($4,500 if it's an
automatic). He
requires a 50% deposit and it takes 6 weeks to deliver;
$ balance due on
delivery. I had started a dialog with Knight at the
beginning of 2002 and
he agreed to offering Team3S a discount, but there was
so little interest on
the list, I never tried to do a group buy. I'm
still considering one for my
'94 Stealth. It appears that the SOHC Base
models are better candidates for
this mod, because of the lower 8.9:1
compression. The DOHCs would probably
require engine work (to drop the
compression) in order to add an SCharger
safely. Although you still
wouldn't have AWD, I think a 250-280HP 3S that
weighs 1000 lbs less than a
TT/VR-4 would "hold its own" against you turbo
guys/gals in the 1/4
mile...
I tested a Super eRAM Electric Supercharger (1.5 psi) on my SOHC,
and it
gave an increase on the dyno of ~10HP; on a DOHC NT it would be around
15HP.
I took mine off for emissions testing and never put it back, since
I'm
considering the much bigger Knight
SC.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 09:37:33
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
HPDS Event at Thunderhill
Howdy all,
Two of us Team3Srs were at
Thunderhill High Performance Driving School
event this last Saturday (June
1), me with my '91 3000GT VR4 and Ann with
her '93 Stealth RT/TT. We met a
fellow (Dan I think) who had recently
purchased a '92 or '93 Stealth SL and
we have encouraged him to check out
Team3S.
It was a good day, a very
good day. The only downside was that there were
fewer instructors there this
time so it was almost impossible to get an
instructor in a C group car. My
wife and daughter were there and I had them
timing my laps with a stop watch
program on my palm pilot (it actually
gives each spit time automatically).
At the start of the day I was running
the 3 mile laps around 3 minutes, +/-
5 seconds. The 5th session I took the
number one spot in the pre-grid and
had open track in front of me almost to
the end of the session where I
caught up to the last car in the field. I
had consistent times of 2:36, +/-
1 second, for almost every lap.
Ann has Big Red calipers, upgraded
rotors, Porterfield R4S pads, Motul 600
brake fluid, and 18" rims. I'm
running stock calipers, Porterfield cryo
treated rotors, R4S pads, ATE Super
Blue Racing brake fluid (same as ATE
Typ 200, except blue rather than
amber), and stock 17" rims.
Ann brought a heat gun to the track and we
started checking our rotor
temperatures after each session. They crept up
over the day, however they
appeared to be reasonably low. ranging from a
little over 200F in the
morning to near 300F in the afternoon. The day was
around 80 with a nice
breeze. Both of us followed almost the same cool down
schedule. We'd take
the checkered flag lap as a cool down lap at about 70
percent speed and
almost no braking. Upon entering the paddock area we'd
drive the full
length of the paddock area at about 15mph before parking in
our pit spots.
Then, after a few minutes we'd roll the car 1/4 to 1/2
rotation of the tire
and repeat after another 5 minutes or so.
I'm
thinking that we did a good job braking and managing the cool down,
based on
the temperatures we were measuring and the fact that we both
thought our
brakes were solid all day.
I'm wondering if anyone else out there has any
comment about the
temperature levels. I'm thinking they were pretty
reasonable.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 13:12:14
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood Scoops
I remember the discussion, but during idling in
place it will let hot air
out, which has to help too. So during high
speed runs you will get some
cool air in, and when you slow down, you will
get hot air out. It sounds
like a decent option to me.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Monday, June 03,
2002 10:34 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hood Scoops
There was
recently a long discussion very similar to this one on how to
reduce
underhood air temperatures.
One of the conclusions of that discussion is
that even if you face a air
scoop backwards, it will still suck air in.
This is because there is a high
pressure area that runs over the top of the
hood. Since you already have
the scoop installed it is easy for you to
test this by simply taping yarn,
string or what not around the area and
seeing which direction it blows when
you drive.
The drawback to this
is that if you draw in air from your hood into the
engine compartment then
there is less air coming in across the radiator.
If you check the
archives under "underhood temps" then you will find all the
previous posts on
the subject.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N Filter, DN
Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel pump, Stillen
cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
lines.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:34:00
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger
I'm trying to get a definitive answer here, on
TMO's website they say the
logger will only work up to 92 3000gt/Stealth.
However on many other pages
(stealth316 comes to mind) they say it will work
on a 93 3000gt as well.
Considering I have a 93 3000GT VR-4, I would really
like to know if I can
hook up the TMO or not, there is someone nearby selling
his because he is
getting rid of his DSM, and I would buy it right now if it
does indeed work
with my car. Is there someplace I can check to see if it
will hook up,
perhaps where the plug is that the logger plugs
into?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:20:44
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
TMO Datalogger
Donald/team-
under the driver's side console across
from the gas and brake if I remember
correctly.
Riyan
1993 stealth
rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htmOn
Monday, June 03, 2002 10:34 AM, Donald Ashby wrote:
-
--------------------------------------------------------->
perhaps where
the plug is that the logger plugs into?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 20:51:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger
Nono, that's the wrong place ! But you don't
have to be worried the logger
will work on your car for sure. The connector
is located beside of the
fusebox on the left side of the footroom. It is
capped with a rubber part.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:04:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HPDS Event at Thunderhill
Whats the palm program to do
this?
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.
Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:06:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HPDS Event at Thunderhill
> I'm wondering if anyone else
out there has any comment about the
> temperature levels. I'm thinking
they were pretty reasonable.
- ---
If you are using the brake at all
on the cool down lap..except perhaps
into the last set of turn..youre goin
too fast.
I can get temps well below 200d with a nice slow cruise in 4th
gear at
about 40mph tops at Thill.
Sometimes..the 7 needs it to cool
down the coolant too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:44:57
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hood scoops
Okay I tried the yarn trick. Also used thread. At no
time did the yarn or
thread suck back into scoop opening. At a stand still
idle the thread was
moving with air flow out from heat and when the fans
kicked on the yarn was
moving. The faster I went on the hwy the yarn stuck
stright out. I can see
where if you tried this with the back of the hood
raised it would pull air
in for that is why I ran cowl hoods on my Chevy to
pull freash air in. Mike
S 92 rt tt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:04:57
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HPDS Event at Thunderhill (palm program)
The palm program
is sportswatch v1.4 for getting the split
times.
The web site to get it (freeware) is
http://www.freewarepalm.com/clock/sportswatch.shtmlI
tested it out and the palm pilot stays on as long as sportswatch is
running.
You can turn off the palm pilot manually. If you do, sportswatch
suspends
until you turn it back on.
I have a Sony Clie which allows me to turn off
the front light and save power.
I'm going to try and secure my palm where
I can comfortably trip the lap
timer when I pass the start tower on each
lap. The start tower at
Thunderhill is where I think I will be in a
consistent state, free of
turns, finished passing, yet to start braking for
the cones at the end of
the straight before turn 1. It would be ideal to be
able to use a thumb
button on the steering wheel.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:13:29
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood scoops
Thanks for the good test Mike :) Definitely worth
to hold in the archives !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 03, 2002 8:44 PM
Subject: Team3S: Hood scoops
> Okay I
tried the yarn trick. Also used thread. At no time did the yarn or
>
thread suck back into scoop opening. At a stand still idle the thread
was
> moving with air flow out from heat and when the fans kicked on the
yarn
was
> moving. The faster I went on the hwy the yarn stuck stright
out. I can see
> where if you tried this with the back of the hood raised
it would pull air
> in for that is why I ran cowl hoods on my Chevy to
pull freash air in.
Mike
> S 92 rt tt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:51:25
-0600
From: "Schmied, Rene" <
Rene.Schmied@gov.ab.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
I recently signed on to your site and
really enjoy reading/receiving all the
information.
I have a 1994
Stealth RT non Turbo with 132,000 kilometers, occasionally
(about 10-15 % of
the time) the car experiences poor acceleration
(hesitating and mild
vibrations similar, but not exactly what is experienced
when shifting to
soon) on harder (not flat out) accelerations.
The problem typically
occurs when the vehicle is at operating temperature
and the rpms are low
(below 3000). The symptoms are more frequent if the car
has been driven at a
constant speed for a period of time before
accelerating. The problem is
rarely experienced when
acceleration/deceleration/acceleration is
frequent.
The car had the full tune up last summer including new timing
chain, fuel
filter, spark plugs and wires, and injector cleaning. A K & N
air filter was
installed last summer as well and is clean.
Any help is
very much appreciated.
thanks
This communication is intended for
the use of the recipient to which it is
addressed, and may contain
confidential, personal and or privileged
information. Please contact us
immediately if you are not the intended
recipient of this communication, and
do not copy, distribute, or take action
relying on it. Any
communication received in error, or subsequent reply,
should be deleted or
destroyed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:57:25
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: 3000GT Service Manuals
For your bidding
pleasure...
1992-1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Factory Service
Manuals
You know what these are, so I won't bore you with my eBay
description in
this message. For more info, go here...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1834119824$0.01
starting price, no reserve.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 00:21:12
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: supercharger
> --Knight Turbos makes a Supercharger for
the SOHC. Super C from 3SI has
one
> on his car.
Yes, and he
sells the car as he's more after a VR4 due to the
higher
potential.
> I believe it cost him $4,000, but I've heard
the price dropped
> to $3000. He told me he dynoed it with a
(approximately) 60HP gain. I
think
> that was a gain to the crank and
not the wheels.--
This is about correct. 5 psi is the max with the high
comrpession.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 15:38:30
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Team3S: Local
parts reccomendations
I am located in the
Santa Cruz/San Jose CA. and have just pulled
my 93 VR-4 from storage. I have
only a K/N installed. I am looking for a
good source of parts locally for
doing my 60K service. I am also looking
for sources for used/ dismantlers in
the area or close by. Initially a
Driver seat and mis. inside parts. By the
way, how do I tell my interior
color code number and exterior paint number ?
Also looking for some one
locally that wants some one to work through or help
each other with
upgrades. I have multiple Race cars and most equipment
to do
repairs/upgrades. But am new to these cars.
Thank you!
john
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:56:56
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Local parts reccomendations
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "John Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>
>
I am located in the Santa Cruz/San Jose CA. and have just pulled my
93 VR-4
from storage. I have only a K/N installed. I am looking for a good
source of
parts locally for doing my 60K service. I am also looking for
sources for
used/ dismantlers in the area or close by. Initially a Driver
seat and mis.
inside parts. By the way, how do I tell my interior
color code number
and exterior paint number ? Also looking for some one
locally that wants some
one to work through or help each other with
upgrades. I have multiple Race
cars and most equipment to do
repairs/upgrades. But am new to these
cars.
> Thank you! john
- --------------------->
Start with
our website, since we list a number of local and national sites
that give
Team3S discounts:
www.Team3S.com/FAQgoodguys.htmwww.Team3S.com/FAQpartsupply.htmYou
might want to look over our FAQ pages and use our Search engine whenever
you
are looking for information...
- --Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 16:42:20
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Poor acceleration
Rene/team-
Run the car until your gas tank
has about 5 gallons left. Pour in a bottle
of REDLINE SI-1 Fuel Injector
Cleaner (or if you're having trouble getting
that, find another FI cleaner
that removes water). DRIVE IT HARD until your
tank is almost empty. Fill up
with Texaco or Chevron 91/92 octane for your
next tank. If the problem is
gone, then good. It means you've got some water
droplets in your
gas.
While you're under the hood:
- -clean your throttle body
-
-check your intake system for leaks
- -make sure your accelarator cable rides
smoothly
On Monday, June 03, 2002 2:51 PM, Rene Schmied wrote:
-
---------------------------------------cut----------------------------------
-
-->
1994 Stealth RT non Turbo with 132,000 kilometers,
occasionally
(about 10-15 % of the time) the car experiences poor
acceleration
(hesitating and mild vibrations similar, but not exactly what is
experienced
when shifting to soon) on harder (not flat out)
accelerations.
The problem typically occurs when the vehicle is at
operating temperature
and the rpms are low (below 3000). The symptoms are
more frequent if the car
has been driven at a constant speed for a period of
time before
accelerating. The problem is rarely experienced
when
acceleration/deceleration/acceleration is frequent.
The car had
the full tune up last summer including new timing chain, fuel
filter, spark
plugs and wires, and injector cleaning. A K & N air filter was
installed
last summer as well and is clean.
-
---------------------------------------------cut----------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 16:48:25
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
TMO Datalogger
That's what I meant. I'm horrible at explaining
things.
Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm-
---------------cut----------------------------------------------------------
>
Nono,
that's the wrong place ! But you don't have to be worried the logger
will
work on your car for sure. The connector is located beside of the
fusebox on
the left side of the footroom. It is capped with a rubber part.
-
----------------------------------cut---------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 17:33:15
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood scoops
Great Test! I was considering buying a pair
of junkyard hood blisters and
drilling holes in them for the same
reason. I changed my mind after reading
all those previous posts.
Now I think I will do it.
92 Stealth RT TT
Apexi AVC-R, K&N
Filter, DN Downpipe, Custom 3" cat back, high flow cat,
Walboro 341 fuel
pump, Stillen cross drilled rotors, 3SX SS braided brake
lines.
Soon
to come: Holy Hood Blisters
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:20:55
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Poor acceleration
A few fuels have detergents in them, such
as amoco gold 93 octane. it cleans
the injectors every time the fuel is
sprayed. By your 60,000 mile tune up,
the injectors will be much cleaner
then if just using regular, non-detergent
gas.
Ive always used it in
the 3000GT, but my dad had a similiar problem in his 93
altima. The car had
78,000 miles, but had lagging accelteration.. . it felt
like a boat anchor
attached to the flywhheel. I know the 2 cars pretty
different, but after he
got the injectors cleaned and switched to amoco, the
car ran great for well
over 100,00 before he sold it.
good luck
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#859
***************************************