Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, June 1
2002 Volume 01 : Number
857
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 May 2002 12:07:57 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
>From what I have heard it
usually means replacing the driveshaft, or
replacing with a non-sealed type
of u-joint, which means they have to be
greased every oil change to keep them
in good shape pretty much. . . Or
a CFDS would be another option if you're
not a poor college student ;)
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Friday, May
31, 2002 12:02 PM
To: team3/S
Subject: Team3S: u-joints bad, what
options?
Well I just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are
bad. Can I
just buy them from a Mitsu dealer and have them
put on? The mechanic
said
that they would have to be put on by a
driveline specialist since they
were pressed on. Also, he said the
"carrier" is bad too. I trust the
mechanic, and he showed me how the
movements were not smooth on the
u-joints. How expensive is this
usually? Does anyone have an
aftermarket driveshaft that they are
selling for cheap :)
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:10:01
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
>From what I have heard it
usually means replacing the driveshaft, or
replacing with a non-sealed type
of u-joint, which means they have to be
greased every oil change to keep them
in good shape pretty much. . . Or
a CFDS would be another option if you're
not a poor college student ;)
The carrier bearing is not hard to replace,
you just have to pay
attention to what order everything bolts up. I just had
mine replaced.
You can get the carrier assemblies from Norco (or wherever)
for about
$65 per bearing (there is two).
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Friday, May
31, 2002 12:02 PM
To: team3/S
Subject: Team3S: u-joints bad, what
options?
Well I just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are
bad. Can I
just buy them from a Mitsu dealer and have them
put on? The mechanic
said
that they would have to be put on by a
driveline specialist since they
were pressed on. Also, he said the
"carrier" is bad too. I trust the
mechanic, and he showed me how the
movements were not smooth on the
u-joints. How expensive is this
usually? Does anyone have an
aftermarket driveshaft that they are
selling for cheap :)
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:33:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
I think I may have a similar
problem. I get a nice 'thunk' from the rear
end when letting out the
clutch, or occassionally when putting it in
reverse. At this point I'm
not going to get all bent out of shape about
an 11 year-old car. If
it's a simple repair like carrier bearings, fine.
If it indicates the trans
is getting ready to go, then this car is
approaching 'part out on e-bay'
time.
On Fri, 31 May 2002, BlackLight wrote:
> >From what I
have heard it usually means replacing the driveshaft, or
> replacing with
a non-sealed type of u-joint, which means they have to be
> greased every
oil change to keep them in good shape pretty much. . . Or
> a CFDS would
be another option if you're not a poor college student ;)
>
> The
carrier bearing is not hard to replace, you just have to pay
> attention
to what order everything bolts up. I just had mine replaced.
> You can get
the carrier assemblies from Norco (or wherever) for about
> $65 per
bearing (there is two).
>
> Matt Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:33:46
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
It was my understand that the
u-joints can NOT be replaced. Besides being
pressed in, the ends have been
"tanged?" so that you would almost have to
grind them out, thus probably
damaging the flange in the process. I was
told that the entire driveshaft
assembly has to be replaced (although it's
possible I was mis-informed),
which comes with new u-joints already
attached.
I just went through
this delimma myself, and am in the process of having a
new custom driveshaft
made. One of our MI3S guys has already got one, and
loves it! It's a 2-piece
driveshaft vs the stock 3-piece. The long piece is
fabricated from
metal-matrix aluminum (whatever the hell that is!), and the
short piece is
fabricated using one section of the old stock driveshaft. It
also requires
only 1 carrier bearing instead of two, and is much lighter
than stock (27 lbs
vs 45 lbs.)
The cost is $700 as opposed to over $1000 for a new stock or
carbon fiber
shaft. It takes them about 2 weeks to make one after they
receive your old
shaft and mounting flanges. You also have to take the two
flanges to a
machine shop and have them milled slighty to fit the new shaft.
You can
check it out at
www.dynotechengineering.com.
Good
luck.
Jeff W.
>Well I just found out that the u-joints on my
driveshaft are bad. Can I
>just buy them from a Mitsu
dealer and have them put on? The mechanic
said
>that they would
have to be put on by a driveline specialist since they
were
>pressed
on. Also, he said the "carrier" is bad too. I trust
the
mechanic,
>and he showed me how the movements were not smooth on
the u-joints. How
>expensive is this usually? Does anyone have
an aftermarket driveshaft
that
>they are selling for cheap
:)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:49:24
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
re: u-joints bad, what options?
Does this replacement imply that the rear
u-joint needs to be in good
condition? often the rear is just as bad
as the middle and front. So,
if the rear section is notchy like the
others, that too needs to be
replaced.
Damon
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
> It was my understand that the u-joints can NOT be replaced.
Besides being
> pressed in, the ends have been "tanged?" so that you would
almost have to
> grind them out, thus probably damaging the flange in the
process. I was
> told that the entire driveshaft assembly has to be
replaced (although it's
> possible I was mis-informed), which comes with
new u-joints already
> attached.
>
> I just went through this
delimma myself, and am in the process of having a
> new custom driveshaft
made. One of our MI3S guys has already got one, and
> loves it! It's a
2-piece driveshaft vs the stock 3-piece. The long piece is
> fabricated
from metal-matrix aluminum (whatever the hell that is!), and the
> short
piece is fabricated using one section of the old stock driveshaft. It
>
also requires only 1 carrier bearing instead of two, and is much lighter
>
than stock (27 lbs vs 45 lbs.)
>
> The cost is $700 as opposed to
over $1000 for a new stock or carbon fiber
> shaft. It takes them about 2
weeks to make one after they receive your old
> shaft and mounting
flanges. You also have to take the two flanges to a
> machine shop and
have them milled slighty to fit the new shaft. You can
> check it out at
www.dynotechengineering.com.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:52:53
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
This is interesting. I
checked out the web site and see that they sell
shafts made from 6061
aluminum, as well as the 'matrix' shaft you
mentioned. I wonder if a
custom drive shaft is out of reach for the
do-it-yourselfer. I'm pretty
handy with a MIG welder, lathe, and mill.
Balancing would be the tricky part,
and I would think the stakes are
relatively high for a foul-up (trashed
splines, bearings, etc).
On Fri, 31 May 2002
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
>
> It was my understand that the u-joints can NOT be
replaced. Besides being
> pressed in, the ends have been "tanged?" so that
you would almost have to
> grind them out, thus probably damaging the
flange in the process. I was
> told that the entire driveshaft assembly
has to be replaced (although it's
> possible I was mis-informed), which
comes with new u-joints already
> attached.
>
> I just went
through this delimma myself, and am in the process of having a
> new
custom driveshaft made. One of our MI3S guys has already got one, and
>
loves it! It's a 2-piece driveshaft vs the stock 3-piece. The long piece
is
> fabricated from metal-matrix aluminum (whatever the hell that is!),
and the
> short piece is fabricated using one section of the old stock
driveshaft. It
> also requires only 1 carrier bearing instead of two, and
is much lighter
> than stock (27 lbs vs 45 lbs.)
>
> The cost
is $700 as opposed to over $1000 for a new stock or carbon fiber
> shaft.
It takes them about 2 weeks to make one after they receive your old
>
shaft and mounting flanges. You also have to take the two flanges to a
>
machine shop and have them milled slighty to fit the new shaft. You can
>
check it out at
www.dynotechengineering.com.
>
>
Good luck.
>
> Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:00:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
It is.
You need
special hardware to weld STRAIGHT and balance the
rotating
assembly.
On Fri, 31 May 2002, David Margrave
wrote:
>
>
> This is interesting. I checked out
the web site and see that they sell
> shafts made from 6061 aluminum, as
well as the 'matrix' shaft you
> mentioned. I wonder if a custom
drive shaft is out of reach for the
> do-it-yourselfer. I'm pretty
handy with a MIG welder, lathe, and mill.
> Balancing would be the tricky
part, and I would think the stakes are
> relatively high for a foul-up
(trashed splines, bearings, etc).
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of
cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:00:17
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
Check with local drag racing
shops, they may give you a break, and have some experience in doing custom
shafts.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 1:01 PM
To:
David Margrave
Cc:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com; Bill vp;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
It is.
You need
special hardware to weld STRAIGHT and balance the
rotating
assembly.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:00:05
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
If you're referring to the
new 2-piece driveshaft, no, all required
u-joints are replaced. They take the
short section from the old driveshaft,
cut off the end, and weld a new flange
on it with a u-joint installed.
Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:04:38
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
The company that makes these
driveshafts actually specializes in balancing.
And this is a quality looking
and well-balanced shaft when they are
finished with it. I've got pics that
show this shaft vs the stock shaft,
but the files are probably too big to
post here.
Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:08:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
On the subject of carrier bearings, a
while back I completed the TSB that
calls for putting some shims on the
carrier bearing mounts. At that time,
I noticed that the rear carrier
bearing was loose! One of the nuts was
unscrewed halfway down the
mounting stud. I have no idea whether it came
like this new (I'm the
2nd owner), or whether the first owner as some
point let some dumbasses work
on the car. But I don't suppose that this
was helpful for the general
condition of the carrier bearing and U-joints,
to be able to flop around like
that?
Dave
On Fri, 31 May 2002, Bill vp wrote:
> Well I
just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are bad. Can I
>
just buy them from a Mitsu dealer and have them put on? The
mechanic said
> that they would have to be put on by a driveline
specialist since they were
> pressed on. Also, he said the "carrier"
is bad too. I trust the mechanic,
> and he showed me how the
movements were not smooth on the u-joints. How
> expensive is this
usually? Does anyone have an aftermarket driveshaft that
> they are
selling for cheap :)
>
> thanks,
> Bill
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:14:47
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
I dont doubt the
company..just that someone asked if a well co-ordianted
home user could build
a shaft.
Thats what I targetted my response to.
On Fri, 31 May
2002
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
> The company that makes these driveshafts actually specializes
in balancing.
> And this is a quality looking and well-balanced shaft when
they are
> finished with it. I've got pics that show this shaft vs the
stock shaft,
> but the files are probably too big to post here.
>
> Jeff W.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them
all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com-
---
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:27:49
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
wouldn't it make sense to see
if the company that makes them would do
a group buy or something to get the
costs down to 500-600 for you
turbo boys? That makes a lot of sense to
me....never heard of metal
matrix aluminum....what is that? Are the calling
extruded tube a
matrix? I would guess 6061 is being used for it's welding
propeties
being better than other alloys but are they re-heat treating
the
shaft after the welding? If I had a driveshaft I would go with
this
option if they made them with replaceable u-joints...seems very
smart
to me. The TT I chopped up a few months ago had a drive shaft and
it
made sense for it to be 3 pieces instead of 2.....the rear axle
moves
up and down and the motor moves around in the bay, with the center
of
the shaft tied to the frame with the carrage housings....the
u-joints
looked pressed in with tabs smashed over from the yokes. Seemed
very
one time only kind of a car part to me.....I see no reason
you
couldn't get a u-joint and replace it with little work...this
comming
from a machinist point of view though...not many have that
equipment
at thier disposal.
JMHO
bobk.
no shaft for
me!
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
gemohler@www.speedtoys.comTo:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:14:47
-0700 (PDT)
>I dont doubt the company..just that someone asked if a
well
>co-ordianted
>home user could build a
shaft.
>
>Thats what I targetted my response to.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:47:38
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
The company has been
approached about a group buy, but we haven't really
pushed it yet. They've
only completed one shaft so far. They have 2 more
currently in process
(including mine) and have already dropped the price a
little from what they
charged for the 1st one. We're kinda wating on the
outcome of these 2 shafts
before we approach them again with a group buy
proposal.
As far as the
material they use, I don't know much about metals, but here's
what they say
on their website:
"(MMC) Metal Matrix
Composite Aluminum. The ultimate in a
light
weight, high performance, race shaft. MMC Aluminum is
60%
lighter
than steel with a 20% increase in critical speed and a
40%
increase
in torque capability over 6061-T6 aluminum. Used by many
Pro
Stock Truck, Super Stock and countless Sportsman class
racers."
Jeff
W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:32:38
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
The carrier bearings will not
stop the thunk, most likely it is your
transfer case from what I understand.
Mine does it too even after the
new carrier bearings and rebuilt
tranny.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: David Margrave [mailto:davidma@eskimo.com]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 12:34 PM
To: BlackLight
Cc: 'Bill vp';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
I think I may have a similar
problem. I get a nice 'thunk' from the
rear end when letting out the
clutch, or occassionally when putting it
in reverse. At this point I'm
not going to get all bent out of shape
about an 11 year-old car. If
it's a simple repair like carrier
bearings, fine. If it indicates the trans
is getting ready to go, then
this car is approaching 'part out on e-bay'
time.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:32:38
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
I believe that 3SX either has
available or is in the process of getting
an aluminum driveshaft. May want to
contact them.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 07:22:00
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Suspension questions and autox videos
Haven't seen your
videos yet. But from what I've heard, in Autocross, the
stiffer the
suspension the better it is. If you can make a go-cart out of
your 3S it
should be the fastest autocross 3S around.
Philip
At 19:31
5/30/2002, Wayne Bonnett wrote:
>Ok 3/s gurus.....
>
>Here are
some autocross videos of me in my 3KGT if anyone wants to have
a
>look. Any advise on what I can do to stop the body roll? It
just seems so
>excessive.
>
>I would assume a good place to
start would be to lower the car. What shocks
>and spring would you
recommend. Keep in mind this is a non turbo, so my
>choices seem
pretty limited. Also, what about bigger front and/or rear
sway
>bars? Any thoughts or suggestions? I don't mind
sacrificing the ride some
>for a better handling car.
>
>FYI,
I have the TEC front strut brace and the cusco non adjustable rear
>strut
brace installed. Suspension is totally stock.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 17:04:20
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
Unfortunately, I get the "thunk" too.
I went under the car and there is
about a half inch of rotational free play
in the propeller shaft between
transfer case and rear differential. I took
the car to SATAN and they said
not to worry about it. Call me a worry wort -
I don't see how a "thunk" can
be anything but bad news. So much for my two
cents worth. Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "BlackLight"
<
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To:
"'David Margrave'" <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Cc: "'Bill vp'"
<
billvp@highstream.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 31, 2002 2:32 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what
options?
| The carrier bearings will not stop the thunk, most likely it
is your
| transfer case from what I understand. Mine does it too even after
the
| new carrier bearings and rebuilt tranny.
|
| Matt Nelson
|
1994 RT TT
|
BlackLight@Planetice.Net|
www.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:11:44
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ARM Wiring ?
Hey guys,
Just got my ARM1 A/F gauge
and just had a quick question about the wiring.
What are the pins on the ECU
for the O2 sensor grounds? I found the wiring
schematic for the O2
sensors on page 13A 254 on the CD manual, but just
wanted to double check on
the wiring. My guess is that pins 34 and 35 are
the corresponding
ground wires?
TIA,
Francis Morice
Retek Internal
Helpdesk
612-587-2510
francis_morice@retek.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:25:49
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: SBC-iD
(Yes, i'm still working on that - first time doing
anything under the hood,
so i'm taking my time...)
Okay - i've got
almost everything figured out except -
where do i mount the solenoid box? I
looked on Roger's website and a few
others and most people with the blitz put
it right by the K&N. My problem is
that I still have the factory filter
(that'll change soon, but perhaps not
soon enough). I was thinking about
fixing it to the washer fluid bottle,
facing the firewall, but I'm a little
apprehensive about the proximity to
the block and the turbo. Wouldn't that be
a little toasty for it?
Other question - someone was talking about not
getting a FIPK, but rather
just a simple cone filter and fabricating some
plate. What is that plate?
Why can't I just use a regular cone filter and
nothing else?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4...
blitz install, day 2
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:46:27
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: NEW rechroming...
I live in Baltimore MD and
have a 94 VR-4.
Can someone suggest a place possibly localy where I can get
my wheels recromed for $500 or less. I found a website but they want $170 per
wheel plus I pay need to ship them.
Thanks for the responces.
94
VR-4
"Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com> wrote:
>Mine
cost $100 from Inland Wheel in San bernardino,CA.
>They checked for damage
and trueness, then sent them out somewhere.
>If you are not close, look
them up and find out who they deal with.
>
>My wheels still look
great after almost 3 years. I just couldn't find anything in the right size that
I liked better than stock rims. At least not for less than $300 each, and I knew
I had to get a set of track wheels+tires as well.
>
>Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:44:53
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARM Wiring ?
Your '96 RT/TT probably has a different pinout from
the '94 that is on the
CD manual. Get your own year paper manual (Hey, I
caught you ;-)
www.apexi-usa.com
says that '94 - 97.5 model years have the same pinout
related to their
installations instructions. That's weird because I know
some things have
changed with the OBDII. If so then, looking at my '95
manual, your ground is
pins 13 or 26 and your O2 signal wires are probably
75 and 76. And 79 and 60
must be for your after precat sensors.
Maybe your '96 has a different
pinout. But I know for sure that the ground
wires are thick and black and
the O2 sensor wires are thick and white.
Philip
At 21:11
5/31/2002, Morice, Francis wrote:
>Just got my ARM1 A/F gauge and just had
a quick question about the wiring.
>What are the pins on the ECU for the
O2 sensor grounds? I found the wiring
>schematic for the O2 sensors
on page 13A 254 on the CD manual, but just
>wanted to double check on the
wiring. My guess is that pins 34 and 35 are
>the corresponding
ground wires?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:53:01
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SBC-iD
At 23:25 5/31/2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>Other
question - someone was talking about not getting a FIPK, but rather
>just
a simple cone filter and fabricating some plate. What is that plate?
>Why
can't I just use a regular cone filter and nothing else?
You can use a
regular cone filter. But you need an adapter that would
connect the round
filter opening to the flat flange of the MAS. You can get
that adapter at
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/disadp-l.jpg
for
$10 and then find a cone filter for it.
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:03:28
-0500
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SBC-iD (Filter)
With this setup what is to stop the cone from bouncing
around and
damaging itself? Has anyone found an acceptable solution for the
cheaper
adapters rather than the FIPK adapter?
- -David
On
Friday, May 31, 2002, at 10:53 PM, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> At
23:25 5/31/2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>> Other question - someone was
talking about not getting a FIPK, but
>> rather
>> just a
simple cone filter and fabricating some plate. What is that
>>
plate?
>> Why can't I just use a regular cone filter and nothing
else?
>
> You can use a regular cone filter. But you need an adapter
that would
> connect the round filter opening to the flat flange of the
MAS. You can
> get that adapter at
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/disadp-
>
l.jpg for $10 and then find a cone filter for it.
>
>
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:08:25
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?
Philip,
Thanks for the response.
For some reason I was under the impression that
the O2 sensors had their own
ground wires. According to the ARM1
instructions they say to
connect the so and so wire to the O2 grounds.
They pins I mentioned seemed to
come from the O2 sensors in addition to 75
and 76, hence my question
regarding 34 and 35. Any other thoughts or should
I just ground the
wire to 13 or 26?
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov [mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
Sent:
Friday, May 31, 2002 10:45 PM
To: Morice, Francis; Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?
Your '96 RT/TT probably has
a different pinout from the '94 that is on the
CD manual. Get your own year
paper manual (Hey, I caught you ;-)
www.apexi-usa.com says that '94 - 97.5 model
years have the same pinout
related to their installations instructions.
That's weird because I know
some things have changed with the OBDII. If so
then, looking at my '95
manual, your ground is pins 13 or 26 and your O2
signal wires are probably
75 and 76. And 79 and 60 must be for your after
precat sensors.
Maybe your '96 has a different pinout. But I know for
sure that the ground
wires are thick and black and the O2 sensor wires are
thick and white.
Philip
At 21:11 5/31/2002, Morice, Francis
wrote:
>Just got my ARM1 A/F gauge and just had a quick question about the
wiring.
>What are the pins on the ECU for the O2 sensor grounds? I
found the wiring
>schematic for the O2 sensors on page 13A 254 on the CD
manual, but just
>wanted to double check on the wiring. My guess is
that pins 34 and 35 are
>the corresponding ground wires?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:19:15
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Team3s: SBC-iD (Filter)
this may be a dumb question, but why
would it? If everything is tight,
shouldn't it stay in
place?
Alex.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"David Allison" <
daedel@mac.com>
> To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Sent: Friday,
May 31, 2002 11:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD
(Filter)
>
>
> > With this setup what is to stop the cone
from bouncing around and
> > damaging itself? Has anyone found an
acceptable solution for the cheaper
> > adapters rather than the FIPK
adapter?
> >
> > -David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 00:16:41
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ARM Wiring ?
At 00:08 6/1/2002, Morice, Francis
wrote:
>According to the ARM1
>instructions they say to
connect the so and so wire to the O2 grounds.
>They pins I mentioned
seemed to come from the O2 sensors in addition to 75
>and 76, hence my
question regarding 34 and 35. Any other thoughts or should
>I just
ground the wire to 13 or 26?
Those other wires that you see must be the
electromagnetic shields grounds.
Those are grounds too. I am not an EE, so I
cannot tell you which grounds
are better to use. I used the same pin #26 for
all my all of my grounding
purposes.
If there are any EE's reading
this, I have a question too. If the O2 wires
are shielded, don't we also
have to use shielded wires to connect the O2
gauges? I understand that this
is a minor difference since the O2 voltage
is not that small and already
noisy as it is, but still...
I have never hear of anyone using shielded wires
to connect the O2 gauges.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:24:31
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SBC-iD
i just checked -it's 60, not 10. their layout is
confusing...
alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 00:25:24
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SBC-iD (Filter)
Yes, fixing a cone filter in place is a good
idea. The filter is heady and
the MAS adds to it too. Without some sort of a
bracket they will both ride
on your wheel well's sheet metal.
Bend a
metal strap or a sheet metal plate and bolt it to one or two of the
adapter's bolts. Then bolt the other end of the plate to the car's
body.
Or, if your cone filter has a steel cap on the closed end, you
could bolt a
plate to that cap instead.
Anything you choose to do is
cheaper and better that shelling out $150 for
the FIPK, which is not the
largest (or the highest-flowing) filter BTW.
Philip
At 00:03
6/1/2002, David Allison wrote:
>With this setup what is to stop the cone
from bouncing around and damaging
>itself? Has anyone found an acceptable
solution for the cheaper adapters
>rather than the FIPK
adapter?
>
>-David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 00:56:14
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SBC-iD (filter)
Get one for $14.95 from
http://www.projectimport.com/Philip
>From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
>Shoot! Go on
EBay and get it for $10 - 15 there.
>
>At 00:24 6/1/2002, you
wrote:
>>i just checked -it's 60, not 10. their layout is
confusing...
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 04:41:31
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.
Hey
guys,
I finaly got my Supra fuel pump and will install it on
Saturday.
I just want ot make sure that after I install the pump I do not
have to do anything else? Is that correct. I am following Jeffs instructions
form his site.
Supra pump flows allot more fuel than the stock, How will
that effect my engine or the Air/Fuel ratio since I do not have an air/fuel
controller installed?
Will my car run rich all the time? or will it be fine
since injectors and the ECU know how much fuel is needed and will regulate the
injectors?
Can some one clarify that for me.
Also any hints or things
to watch for when replacing the fuel pump, I think I should not have my buddies
smoking when the pump is out.. :-)
Thank you so much for the info on the
pump if anybody cares it only costed me $192 with the filter and
shipping.
Roman G
94 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 09:56:13
-0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <
hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.
Roman,
One thing
you want to wake sure you do is rewire the fuel pump. This way
you will
have maximum current flowing to your new fp. Rewiring and
hotwiring are
very different things. The difference is that rewiring means
running a
10 ga wire from the battery to a relay to the pump with a fuse
next to the
battery. This will make sure that you've got maximum voltage
available
for your pump, and the relay is wired into the stock system and
that way the
pump only gets voltage when the key is turned, I know some
people worry that
with the hotwire they've bypassed the shutoff that Mitsu
installed in case of
an accident. The hotwire is just running a short wire
from one point to
another in the relay under the hood. I recently tried the
hotwire and
didn't find any benefit either with or without the
rewire
activated.
Dan Johnson
1997 VR-4
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roman" <
romachka21@netscape.net>
To:
<
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Saturday, June 01, 2002 4:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel
pump.
> Hey guys,
>
> I finaly got my Supra fuel pump and
will install it on Saturday.
>
> I just want ot make sure that after
I install the pump I do not have to do
anything else? Is that
correct.
> Roman G
> 94 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 10:20:53
-0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.
Also,
I would recommend
against trying to loosen the fitting right at the top
of the fuel pump
assembly... instead undo the fitting under the car in
front of the gas tank
(it's mentioned in Jeff L's directions). If your
fittings are as bad as
mine were, you might end up bending or cracking
the hardline on the pump
assembly, which I did :(
If this happens to you, you have the option
of buying a whole new
assembly ($450!!) or do what I did and buy a fuel line
repair kit and
solder it all together :) Works great and saved me
$430!
Joe
91 RT/TT black
Dan Johnson wrote:
>
>
Roman,
> One thing you want to wake sure you do is
rewire the fuel pump. This way
> you will have maximum current
flowing to your new fp. Rewiring and
> hotwiring are very different
things. The difference is that rewiring means
> running a 10 ga wire
from the battery to a relay to the pump with a fuse
> next to the
battery. This will make sure that you've got maximum voltage
>
available for your pump, and the relay is wired into the stock system
and
> that way the pump only gets voltage when the key is turned, I know
some
> people worry that with the hotwire they've bypassed the shutoff
that Mitsu
> installed in case of an accident. The hotwire is just
running a short wire
> from one point to another in the relay under the
hood. I recently tried the
> hotwire and didn't find any benefit
either with or without the rewire
> activated.
>
> Dan
Johnson
> 1997 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:42:26
-0400
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stereo questions
Andre,
You have quite
a few questions... You will first need to decide if you
want to keep
the stock head unit.. You can keep this unit and still
apply
aftermarket equipment.. However your choices are very limited..
Personally
I think the factory amplifier doesnt quite do the job.. I
have replaced the
factory amplifier with Xtant.. This is not a cheap
amplifier but it will
allow you keep your factory componants if you want to..
Where as many other
amplifiers will conflict with the factory
stereo..
I also feel that Alpine is very much worth the
investment, and not
overpriced.. As far as speakers go, I know that 94+
3s have Infinty
Kappas.. Nothing wrong with these speakers as I still have
them in mine for
"fill" speakers.. They help compliment the sound of a good
pair of componant
tweeters and a nice 10" sub.. Prior to 94 Im unsure
about what speakers
were factory installed.. Maybe someone else can help you
out with that
one... If you feel the need to replace the stock speakers
I am fond of
Boston Accoustic componant and 2 or 3 way speakers..
Bostons are reasonably
priced.. If you want to spend the big bucks then get
some MB quart.. Very
nice speakers but VERY expensive..
If your
3s did not come with a factory installed CD changer output you
will have to
use the remote application and or just replace the whole DIN
with a CD
changer compatible DIN.. And unless you are planning on getting a
boost
controller I would look for a good double DIN to complete the
empty
space...
Hope this helps a little,
Scott
Green 94 VR4
/ Apexi AVCR, Borla exhaust, Greddy BOV, K&N FIPK
Alpine double
din
Boston Accoustic componant tweeters
10" Kicker solo baric
subwoofer
Xtant running highs and mids
Xtant subwoofer
amp
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 12:50:24
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
Ae the 5 speed and 6 speed VR4
driveshafts different? If so, are all the
sections different, or just a
few?
thanks for all the info guys,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 12:12:35
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (filter)
thanks, i'll prolly do that...
in the
meantime, however - what does everybody think about mounting the
solenoid box
onto the washer fluid bottle? It's pretty much right by where
the stocker
sits, just lower. The instructions say to not mount it in a
"hot" place, but
I don't know how hot "hot" is...
any ideas?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, May
31, 2002 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (filter)
> Get one
for $14.95 from
http://www.projectimport.com/>
>
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:23:40
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Stereo questions
On model years 97 and up, the 3000GT SL and VR-4
came with a 210 watt
infinity head unit and amp, with 8 speakers. The
speakers are not kappas, or
any other type of infinity. they are simply
paper cones and tweeters with the
infinity name with power ratings of no
more then 12 watts for the dash, 60
for the door, and i believe 100 for the
6x9s. the sound balancer is digital
on these
On your 92 SL, the head
unit is 100 watts with 6 speakers, and a manual sound
balancer. I believe
your first order should be to upgrade all the speakers,
as they blow out
right away. After that you should think about upgrading the
head unit and
amp. The speakers i chose were infinity kappas, And the sound
is excellent.
Any aftermarket speaker with anything besides a paper cone is
far better
then stock.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 10:39:39
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
Throw out bearing rattle. - Yes, when the
clutch is out the TOB should not
be spinning. However, because it is under no
strain it will rattle due to
normal vibrations of the car and the spinning of
the shaft that is sits
around. When the clutch is pushed in the first thing
that happens is that it
grabs the TOB face and starts it spinning. The needle
bearings become
stressed and the rattle stops. The rattle can be the result
of too little
grease, or a missing needle, or just wear in one or more of the
needles
themselves. IMHO if the rattle is not too bad, and there are no
unusual
noises when the clutch is pushed in, and the gears shift OK, then
the
problem is either wear, or lack of grease. Neither problem is likely
to
cause immediate failure, but neither is either likely to get any
better.
Sooner or later the problem will get significantly worse and the TOB
will
have to be replaced. Even if the TOB looks fine and acts fine it
should
automatically be replaced when a new clutch is installed or the area
is
opened for inspection for some other reason.
Andy
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin <
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
<
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Date:
Monday, May 27, 2002 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TOB or broken
tranny?
>Elpidio-
>
>although it's somewhat foreign
material to me, using common sense, it
sounds
>like the 2nd mechanic is
right. because pressing down the clutch disengages
>the motor from the
tranny, correct? hopefully the other list members will
be
>able to give
more detailed info.
>
>Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:59:12
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
how are you supposed to grease them to
reduce noise/wear ?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Andrew D. Woll
Sent:
Saturday, June 01, 2002 1:40 PM
To: Riyan Mynuddin; Team3S; Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1
Subject: Re: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
Throw out
bearing rattle. - Yes, when the clutch is out the TOB should not
be spinning.
However, because it is under no strain it will rattle due to
normal
vibrations of the car and the spinning of the shaft that is sits
around. When
the clutch is pushed in the first thing that happens is that it
grabs the TOB
face and starts it spinning. The needle bearings become
stressed and the
rattle stops. The rattle can be the result of too little
grease, or a missing
needle, or just wear in one or more of the needles
themselves. IMHO if the
rattle is not too bad, and there are no unusual
noises when the clutch is
pushed in, and the gears shift OK, then the
problem is either wear, or lack
of grease.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:32:03
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.
The one thing I learned was, to
only loosen the top fitting. Do not take the
hose off the top. Then you
must disconnected it from the bottom. On the
bottom, both pieces turn, unlike
the top where you can only turn the hose.
I made the mistake of forcing
the hose from the top off and I broke the
rubber hose. A new one from
the dealer will cost you around $70 to $80.
Yea, that right for a F*&(ing
8" hose with fitting on both sides. I got
lucky and was able to find
one at a junk yard for $10.00 most junk yards cut
this hose to take the fuel
assembly out or to take the fuel tank out.
Good Luck
Moe
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Kenwabikise" <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, June 01, 2002 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel
pump.
> Also,
> I would recommend against trying to loosen the
fitting right at the top
> of the fuel pump assembly... instead undo the
fitting under the car in
> front of the gas tank (it's mentioned in Jeff
L's directions). If your
> fittings are as bad as mine were, you
might end up bending or cracking
> the hardline on the pump assembly,
which I did :(
> If this happens to you, you have the option of buying a
whole new
> assembly ($450!!) or do what I did and buy a fuel line repair
kit and
> solder it all together :) Works great and saved me
$430!
>
> Joe
> 91 RT/TT black
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#857
***************************************
