Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Saturday, June 1 2002    Volume 01 : Number 857




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:07:57 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

>From what I have heard it usually means replacing the driveshaft, or
replacing with a non-sealed type of u-joint, which means they have to be
greased every oil change to keep them in good shape pretty much. . . Or
a CFDS would be another option if you're not a poor college student ;)

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 12:02 PM
To: team3/S
Subject: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

Well I just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are bad.  Can I
just buy   them from a Mitsu dealer and have them put on?  The mechanic
said
that they would have to be put on by a driveline specialist since they
were pressed on.  Also, he said the "carrier" is bad too.  I trust the
mechanic, and he showed me how the movements were not smooth on the
u-joints.  How expensive is this usually?  Does anyone have an
aftermarket driveshaft that they are selling for cheap :)

thanks,
Bill

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:10:01 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

>From what I have heard it usually means replacing the driveshaft, or
replacing with a non-sealed type of u-joint, which means they have to be
greased every oil change to keep them in good shape pretty much. . . Or
a CFDS would be another option if you're not a poor college student ;)

The carrier bearing is not hard to replace, you just have to pay
attention to what order everything bolts up. I just had mine replaced.
You can get the carrier assemblies from Norco (or wherever) for about
$65 per bearing (there is two).

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 12:02 PM
To: team3/S
Subject: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

Well I just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are bad.  Can I
just buy   them from a Mitsu dealer and have them put on?  The mechanic
said
that they would have to be put on by a driveline specialist since they
were pressed on.  Also, he said the "carrier" is bad too.  I trust the
mechanic, and he showed me how the movements were not smooth on the
u-joints.  How expensive is this usually?  Does anyone have an
aftermarket driveshaft that they are selling for cheap :)

thanks,
Bill

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:33:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

I think I may have a similar problem.  I get a nice 'thunk' from the rear
end when letting out the clutch, or occassionally when putting it in
reverse.  At this point I'm not going to get all bent out of shape about
an 11 year-old car.  If it's a simple repair like carrier bearings, fine.
If it indicates the trans is getting ready to go, then this car is
approaching 'part out on e-bay' time.

On Fri, 31 May 2002, BlackLight wrote:

> >From what I have heard it usually means replacing the driveshaft, or
> replacing with a non-sealed type of u-joint, which means they have to be
> greased every oil change to keep them in good shape pretty much. . . Or
> a CFDS would be another option if you're not a poor college student ;)
>
> The carrier bearing is not hard to replace, you just have to pay
> attention to what order everything bolts up. I just had mine replaced.
> You can get the carrier assemblies from Norco (or wherever) for about
> $65 per bearing (there is two).
>
> Matt Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
> BlackLight@Planetice.Net
> www.BlackLight.5u.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:33:46 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

It was my understand that the u-joints can NOT be replaced. Besides being
pressed in, the ends have been "tanged?" so that you would almost have to
grind them out, thus probably damaging the flange in the process. I was
told that the entire driveshaft assembly has to be replaced (although it's
possible I was mis-informed), which comes with new u-joints already
attached.

I just went through this delimma myself, and am in the process of having a
new custom driveshaft made. One of our MI3S guys has already got one, and
loves it! It's a 2-piece driveshaft vs the stock 3-piece. The long piece is
fabricated from metal-matrix aluminum (whatever the hell that is!), and the
short piece is fabricated using one section of the old stock driveshaft. It
also requires only 1 carrier bearing instead of two, and is much lighter
than stock (27 lbs vs 45 lbs.)

The cost is $700 as opposed to over $1000 for a new stock or carbon fiber
shaft. It takes them about 2 weeks to make one after they receive your old
shaft and mounting flanges. You also have to take the two flanges to a
machine shop and have them milled slighty to fit the new shaft. You can
check it out at www.dynotechengineering.com.

Good luck.

Jeff W.

>Well I just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are bad.  Can I
>just buy   them from a Mitsu dealer and have them put on?  The mechanic
said
>that they would have to be put on by a driveline specialist since they
were
>pressed on.  Also, he said the "carrier" is bad too.  I trust the
mechanic,
>and he showed me how the movements were not smooth on the u-joints.  How
>expensive is this usually?  Does anyone have an aftermarket driveshaft
that
>they are selling for cheap :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:49:24 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

Does this replacement imply that the rear u-joint needs to be in good
condition?  often the rear is just as bad as the middle and front.  So,
if the rear section is notchy like the others, that too needs to be
replaced.
Damon

Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com wrote:

> It was my understand that the u-joints can NOT be replaced. Besides being
> pressed in, the ends have been "tanged?" so that you would almost have to
> grind them out, thus probably damaging the flange in the process. I was
> told that the entire driveshaft assembly has to be replaced (although it's
> possible I was mis-informed), which comes with new u-joints already
> attached.
>
> I just went through this delimma myself, and am in the process of having a
> new custom driveshaft made. One of our MI3S guys has already got one, and
> loves it! It's a 2-piece driveshaft vs the stock 3-piece. The long piece is
> fabricated from metal-matrix aluminum (whatever the hell that is!), and the
> short piece is fabricated using one section of the old stock driveshaft. It
> also requires only 1 carrier bearing instead of two, and is much lighter
> than stock (27 lbs vs 45 lbs.)
>
> The cost is $700 as opposed to over $1000 for a new stock or carbon fiber
> shaft. It takes them about 2 weeks to make one after they receive your old
> shaft and mounting flanges. You also have to take the two flanges to a
> machine shop and have them milled slighty to fit the new shaft. You can
> check it out at www.dynotechengineering.com.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jeff W.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 12:52:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

This is interesting.  I checked out the web site and see that they sell
shafts made from 6061 aluminum, as well as the 'matrix' shaft you
mentioned.  I wonder if a custom drive shaft is out of reach for the
do-it-yourselfer.  I'm pretty handy with a MIG welder, lathe, and mill.
Balancing would be the tricky part, and I would think the stakes are
relatively high for a foul-up (trashed splines, bearings, etc).

On Fri, 31 May 2002 Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com wrote:

>
> It was my understand that the u-joints can NOT be replaced. Besides being
> pressed in, the ends have been "tanged?" so that you would almost have to
> grind them out, thus probably damaging the flange in the process. I was
> told that the entire driveshaft assembly has to be replaced (although it's
> possible I was mis-informed), which comes with new u-joints already
> attached.
>
> I just went through this delimma myself, and am in the process of having a
> new custom driveshaft made. One of our MI3S guys has already got one, and
> loves it! It's a 2-piece driveshaft vs the stock 3-piece. The long piece is
> fabricated from metal-matrix aluminum (whatever the hell that is!), and the
> short piece is fabricated using one section of the old stock driveshaft. It
> also requires only 1 carrier bearing instead of two, and is much lighter
> than stock (27 lbs vs 45 lbs.)
>
> The cost is $700 as opposed to over $1000 for a new stock or carbon fiber
> shaft. It takes them about 2 weeks to make one after they receive your old
> shaft and mounting flanges. You also have to take the two flanges to a
> machine shop and have them milled slighty to fit the new shaft. You can
> check it out at www.dynotechengineering.com.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jeff W.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:00:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

It is.

You need special hardware to weld STRAIGHT and balance the rotating
assembly.

On Fri, 31 May 2002, David Margrave wrote:

>
>
> This is interesting.  I checked out the web site and see that they sell
> shafts made from 6061 aluminum, as well as the 'matrix' shaft you
> mentioned.  I wonder if a custom drive shaft is out of reach for the
> do-it-yourselfer.  I'm pretty handy with a MIG welder, lathe, and mill.
> Balancing would be the tricky part, and I would think the stakes are
> relatively high for a foul-up (trashed splines, bearings, etc).

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com
- ---

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:00:17 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

Check with local drag racing shops, they may give you a break, and have some experience in doing custom shafts.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 1:01 PM
To: David Margrave
Cc: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com; Bill vp; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

It is.

You need special hardware to weld STRAIGHT and balance the rotating
assembly.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:00:05 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

If you're referring to the new 2-piece driveshaft, no, all required
u-joints are replaced. They take the short section from the old driveshaft,
cut off the end, and weld a new flange on it with a u-joint installed.

Jeff W.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:04:38 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

The company that makes these driveshafts actually specializes in balancing.
And this is a quality looking and well-balanced shaft when they are
finished with it. I've got pics that show this shaft vs the stock shaft,
but the files are probably too big to post here.

Jeff W.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:08:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

On the subject of carrier bearings, a while back I completed the TSB that
calls for putting some shims on the carrier bearing mounts.  At that time,
I noticed that the rear carrier bearing was loose!  One of the nuts was
unscrewed halfway down the mounting stud.  I have no idea whether it came
like this new (I'm the 2nd owner), or whether the first owner as some
point let some dumbasses work on the car.  But I don't suppose that this
was helpful for the general condition of the carrier bearing and U-joints,
to be able to flop around like that?

Dave

On Fri, 31 May 2002, Bill vp wrote:

> Well I just found out that the u-joints on my driveshaft are bad.  Can I
> just buy   them from a Mitsu dealer and have them put on?  The mechanic said
> that they would have to be put on by a driveline specialist since they were
> pressed on.  Also, he said the "carrier" is bad too.  I trust the mechanic,
> and he showed me how the movements were not smooth on the u-joints.  How
> expensive is this usually?  Does anyone have an aftermarket driveshaft that
> they are selling for cheap :)
>
> thanks,
> Bill

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:14:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

I dont doubt the company..just that someone asked if a well co-ordianted
home user could build a shaft.

Thats what I targetted my response to.

On Fri, 31 May 2002 Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com wrote:

> The company that makes these driveshafts actually specializes in balancing.
> And this is a quality looking and well-balanced shaft when they are
> finished with it. I've got pics that show this shaft vs the stock shaft,
> but the files are probably too big to post here.
>
> Jeff W.

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com
- ---

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:27:49 -0700
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

wouldn't it make sense to see if the company that makes them would do
a group buy or something to get the costs down to 500-600 for you
turbo boys? That makes a lot of sense to me....never heard of metal
matrix aluminum....what is that? Are the calling extruded tube a
matrix? I would guess 6061 is being used for it's welding propeties
being better than other alloys but are they re-heat treating the
shaft after the welding? If I had a driveshaft I would go with this
option if they made them with replaceable u-joints...seems very smart
to me. The TT I chopped up a few months ago had a drive shaft and it
made sense for it to be 3 pieces instead of 2.....the rear axle moves
up and down and the motor moves around in the bay, with the center of
the shaft tied to the frame with the carrage housings....the u-joints
looked pressed in with tabs smashed over from the yokes. Seemed very
one time only kind of a car part to me.....I see no reason you
couldn't get a u-joint and replace it with little work...this comming
from a machinist point of view though...not many have that equipment
at thier disposal.

JMHO

bobk.
no shaft for me!
- ---- Original Message ----
From: gemohler@www.speedtoys.com
To: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:14:47 -0700 (PDT)

>I dont doubt the company..just that someone asked if a well
>co-ordianted
>home user could build a shaft.
>
>Thats what I targetted my response to.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 16:47:38 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

The company has been approached about a group buy, but we haven't really
pushed it yet. They've only completed one shaft so far. They have 2 more
currently in process (including mine) and have already dropped the price a
little from what they charged for the 1st one. We're kinda wating on the
outcome of these 2 shafts before we approach them again with a group buy
proposal.

As far as the material they use, I don't know much about metals, but here's
what they say on their website:
      "(MMC) Metal Matrix Composite Aluminum. The ultimate in a light
              weight, high performance, race shaft. MMC Aluminum is 60%
lighter
              than steel with a 20% increase in critical speed and a 40%
increase
              in torque capability over 6061-T6 aluminum. Used by many Pro
              Stock Truck, Super Stock and countless Sportsman class
racers."

Jeff W.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:32:38 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

The carrier bearings will not stop the thunk, most likely it is your
transfer case from what I understand. Mine does it too even after the
new carrier bearings and rebuilt tranny.

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Margrave [mailto:davidma@eskimo.com]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 12:34 PM
To: BlackLight
Cc: 'Bill vp'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

I think I may have a similar problem.  I get a nice 'thunk' from the
rear end when letting out the clutch, or occassionally when putting it
in reverse.  At this point I'm not going to get all bent out of shape
about an 11 year-old car.  If it's a simple repair like carrier
bearings, fine. If it indicates the trans is getting ready to go, then
this car is approaching 'part out on e-bay' time.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:32:38 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: u-joints bad, what options?

I believe that 3SX either has available or is in the process of getting
an aluminum driveshaft. May want to contact them.

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 07:22:00 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Suspension questions and autox videos

Haven't seen your videos yet. But from what I've heard, in Autocross, the
stiffer the suspension the better it is. If you can make a go-cart out of
your 3S it should be the fastest autocross 3S around.

Philip

At 19:31 5/30/2002, Wayne Bonnett wrote:
>Ok 3/s gurus.....
>
>Here are some autocross videos of me in my 3KGT if anyone wants to have a
>look.  Any advise on what I can do to stop the body roll?  It just seems so
>excessive.
>
>I would assume a good place to start would be to lower the car.  What shocks
>and spring would you recommend.  Keep in mind this is a non turbo, so my
>choices seem pretty limited.  Also, what about bigger front and/or rear sway
>bars?  Any thoughts or suggestions?  I don't mind sacrificing the ride some
>for a better handling car.
>
>FYI, I have the TEC front strut brace and the cusco non adjustable rear
>strut brace installed.  Suspension is totally stock.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 17:04:20 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

Unfortunately, I get the "thunk" too. I went under the car and there is
about a half inch of rotational free play in the propeller shaft between
transfer case and rear differential. I took the car to SATAN and they said
not to worry about it. Call me a worry wort - I don't see how a "thunk" can
be anything but bad news. So much for my two cents worth.  Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To: "'David Margrave'" <davidma@eskimo.com>
Cc: "'Bill vp'" <billvp@highstream.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 2:32 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

| The carrier bearings will not stop the thunk, most likely it is your
| transfer case from what I understand. Mine does it too even after the
| new carrier bearings and rebuilt tranny.
|
| Matt Nelson
| 1994 RT TT
| BlackLight@Planetice.Net
| www.BlackLight.5u.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:11:44 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?

Hey guys,
 
Just got my ARM1 A/F gauge and just had a quick question about the wiring.
What are the pins on the ECU for the O2 sensor grounds?  I found the wiring
schematic for the O2 sensors on page 13A 254 on the CD manual, but just
wanted to double check on the wiring.  My guess is that pins 34 and 35 are
the corresponding ground wires?
 
TIA,

Francis Morice
Retek Internal Helpdesk
612-587-2510
francis_morice@retek.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:25:49 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: SBC-iD

(Yes, i'm still working on that - first time doing anything under the hood,
so i'm taking my time...)

Okay - i've got almost everything figured out except -
where do i mount the solenoid box? I looked on Roger's website and a few
others and most people with the blitz put it right by the K&N. My problem is
that I still have the factory filter (that'll change soon, but perhaps not
soon enough). I was thinking about fixing it to the washer fluid bottle,
facing the firewall, but I'm a little apprehensive about the proximity to
the block and the turbo. Wouldn't that be a little toasty for it?

Other question - someone was talking about not getting a FIPK, but rather
just a simple cone filter and fabricating some plate. What is that plate?
Why can't I just use a regular cone filter and nothing else?

Thanks,

    Alex.

'95 VR4... blitz install, day 2

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:46:27 -0400
From: romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: Team3S: NEW rechroming...

I live in Baltimore MD and have a 94 VR-4.
Can someone suggest a place possibly localy where I can get my wheels recromed for $500 or less. I found a website but they want $170 per wheel plus I pay need to ship them.

Thanks for the responces.
94 VR-4

"Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com> wrote:

>Mine cost $100 from Inland Wheel in San bernardino,CA.
>They checked for damage and trueness, then sent them out somewhere.
>If you are not close, look them up and find out who they deal with.
>
>My wheels still look great after almost 3 years. I just couldn't find anything in the right size that I liked better than stock rims. At least not for less than $300 each, and I knew I had to get a set of track wheels+tires as well.
>
>Kurt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:44:53 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?

Your '96 RT/TT probably has a different pinout from the '94 that is on the
CD manual. Get your own year paper manual (Hey, I caught you ;-)

www.apexi-usa.com says that '94 - 97.5 model years have the same pinout
related to their installations instructions. That's weird because I know
some things have changed with the OBDII. If so then, looking at my '95
manual, your ground is pins 13 or 26 and your O2 signal wires are probably
75 and 76. And 79 and 60 must be for your after precat sensors.

Maybe your '96 has a different pinout. But I know for sure that the ground
wires are thick and black and the O2 sensor wires are thick and white.

Philip

At 21:11 5/31/2002, Morice, Francis wrote:
>Just got my ARM1 A/F gauge and just had a quick question about the wiring.
>What are the pins on the ECU for the O2 sensor grounds?  I found the wiring
>schematic for the O2 sensors on page 13A 254 on the CD manual, but just
>wanted to double check on the wiring.  My guess is that pins 34 and 35 are
>the corresponding ground wires?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:53:01 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD

At 23:25 5/31/2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>Other question - someone was talking about not getting a FIPK, but rather
>just a simple cone filter and fabricating some plate. What is that plate?
>Why can't I just use a regular cone filter and nothing else?

You can use a regular cone filter. But you need an adapter that would
connect the round filter opening to the flat flange of the MAS. You can get
that adapter at http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/disadp-l.jpg for
$10 and then find a cone filter for it.

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:03:28 -0500
From: David Allison <daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (Filter)

With this setup what is to stop the cone from bouncing around and
damaging itself? Has anyone found an acceptable solution for the cheaper
adapters rather than the FIPK adapter?

- -David

On Friday, May 31, 2002, at 10:53 PM, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:

> At 23:25 5/31/2002, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>> Other question - someone was talking about not getting a FIPK, but
>> rather
>> just a simple cone filter and fabricating some plate. What is that
>> plate?
>> Why can't I just use a regular cone filter and nothing else?
>
> You can use a regular cone filter. But you need an adapter that would
> connect the round filter opening to the flat flange of the MAS. You can
> get that adapter at http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/disadp-
> l.jpg for $10 and then find a cone filter for it.
>
> Philip

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:08:25 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?

Philip,

Thanks for the response.  For some reason I was under the impression that
the O2 sensors had their own ground wires.  According to the ARM1
instructions they say  to connect the so and so wire to the O2 grounds.
They pins I mentioned seemed to come from the O2 sensors in addition to 75
and 76, hence my question regarding 34 and 35.  Any other thoughts or should
I just ground the wire to 13 or 26?

Francis
'96 RT/TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov [mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:45 PM
To: Morice, Francis; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?

Your '96 RT/TT probably has a different pinout from the '94 that is on the
CD manual. Get your own year paper manual (Hey, I caught you ;-)

www.apexi-usa.com says that '94 - 97.5 model years have the same pinout
related to their installations instructions. That's weird because I know
some things have changed with the OBDII. If so then, looking at my '95
manual, your ground is pins 13 or 26 and your O2 signal wires are probably
75 and 76. And 79 and 60 must be for your after precat sensors.

Maybe your '96 has a different pinout. But I know for sure that the ground
wires are thick and black and the O2 sensor wires are thick and white.

Philip

At 21:11 5/31/2002, Morice, Francis wrote:
>Just got my ARM1 A/F gauge and just had a quick question about the wiring.
>What are the pins on the ECU for the O2 sensor grounds?  I found the wiring
>schematic for the O2 sensors on page 13A 254 on the CD manual, but just
>wanted to double check on the wiring.  My guess is that pins 34 and 35 are
>the corresponding ground wires?

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:19:15 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Team3s: SBC-iD (Filter)

this may be a dumb question, but why would it? If everything is tight,
shouldn't it stay in place?

 Alex.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Allison" <daedel@mac.com>
> To: <team3s@team3s.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 11:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (Filter)
>
>
> > With this setup what is to stop the cone from bouncing around and
> > damaging itself? Has anyone found an acceptable solution for the cheaper
> > adapters rather than the FIPK adapter?
> >
> > -David

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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 00:16:41 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ARM Wiring ?

At 00:08 6/1/2002, Morice, Francis wrote:
>According to the ARM1
>instructions they say  to connect the so and so wire to the O2 grounds.
>They pins I mentioned seemed to come from the O2 sensors in addition to 75
>and 76, hence my question regarding 34 and 35.  Any other thoughts or should
>I just ground the wire to 13 or 26?

Those other wires that you see must be the electromagnetic shields grounds.
Those are grounds too. I am not an EE, so I cannot tell you which grounds
are better to use. I used the same pin #26 for all my all of my grounding
purposes.

If there are any EE's reading this, I have a question too. If the O2 wires
are shielded, don't we also have to use shielded wires to connect the O2
gauges? I understand that this is a minor difference since the O2 voltage
is not that small and already noisy as it is, but still...
I have never hear of anyone using shielded wires to connect the O2 gauges.

Philip

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 23:24:31 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD

i just checked -it's 60, not 10. their layout is confusing...

alex.


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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 00:25:24 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (Filter)

Yes, fixing a cone filter in place is a good idea. The filter is heady and
the MAS adds to it too. Without some sort of a bracket they will both ride
on your wheel well's sheet metal.

Bend a metal strap or a sheet metal plate and bolt it to one or two of the
adapter's bolts. Then bolt the other end of the plate to the car's body.

Or, if your cone filter has a steel cap on the closed end, you could bolt a
plate to that cap instead.

Anything you choose to do is cheaper and better that shelling out $150 for
the FIPK, which is not the largest (or the highest-flowing) filter BTW.

Philip

At 00:03 6/1/2002, David Allison wrote:
>With this setup what is to stop the cone from bouncing around and damaging
>itself? Has anyone found an acceptable solution for the cheaper adapters
>rather than the FIPK adapter?
>
>-David

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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 00:56:14 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (filter)

Get one for $14.95 from http://www.projectimport.com/

Philip

>From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
>Shoot! Go on EBay and get it for $10 - 15 there.
>
>At 00:24 6/1/2002, you wrote:
>>i just checked -it's 60, not 10. their layout is confusing...

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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 04:41:31 -0400
From: romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.

Hey guys,

I finaly got my Supra fuel pump and will install it on Saturday.

I just want ot make sure that after I install the pump I do not have to do anything else? Is that correct. I am following Jeffs instructions form his site.
Supra pump flows allot more fuel than the stock, How will that effect my engine or the Air/Fuel ratio since I do not have an air/fuel controller installed?
Will my car run rich all the time? or will it be fine since injectors and the ECU know how much fuel is needed and will regulate the injectors?

Can some one clarify that for me.
Also any hints or things to watch for when replacing the fuel pump, I think I should not have my buddies smoking when the pump is out.. :-)

Thank you so much for the info on the pump if anybody cares it only costed me $192 with the filter and shipping.

Roman G
94 VR-4

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 09:56:13 -0400
From: "Dan Johnson" <hiimdan74@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.

Roman,
   One thing you want to wake sure you do is rewire the fuel pump.  This way
you will have maximum current flowing to your new fp.  Rewiring and
hotwiring are very different things.  The difference is that rewiring means
running a 10 ga wire from the battery to a relay to the pump with a fuse
next to the battery.  This will make sure that you've got maximum voltage
available for your pump, and the relay is wired into the stock system and
that way the pump only gets voltage when the key is turned, I know some
people worry that with the hotwire they've bypassed the shutoff that Mitsu
installed in case of an accident.  The hotwire is just running a short wire
from one point to another in the relay under the hood.  I recently tried the
hotwire and didn't find any benefit either with or without the rewire
activated.

Dan Johnson
1997 VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <romachka21@netscape.net>
To: <team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 4:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.

> Hey guys,
>
> I finaly got my Supra fuel pump and will install it on Saturday.
>
> I just want ot make sure that after I install the pump I do not have to do
anything else? Is that correct.
> Roman G
> 94 VR-4

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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 10:20:53 -0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.

Also,
I would recommend against trying to loosen the fitting right at the top
of the fuel pump assembly... instead undo the fitting under the car in
front of the gas tank (it's mentioned in Jeff L's directions).  If your
fittings are as bad as mine were, you might end up bending or cracking
the hardline on the pump assembly, which I did :( 
If this happens to you, you have the option of buying a whole new
assembly ($450!!) or do what I did and buy a fuel line repair kit and
solder it all together :)  Works great and saved me $430!

Joe
91 RT/TT black

Dan Johnson wrote:
>
> Roman,
>    One thing you want to wake sure you do is rewire the fuel pump.  This way
> you will have maximum current flowing to your new fp.  Rewiring and
> hotwiring are very different things.  The difference is that rewiring means
> running a 10 ga wire from the battery to a relay to the pump with a fuse
> next to the battery.  This will make sure that you've got maximum voltage
> available for your pump, and the relay is wired into the stock system and
> that way the pump only gets voltage when the key is turned, I know some
> people worry that with the hotwire they've bypassed the shutoff that Mitsu
> installed in case of an accident.  The hotwire is just running a short wire
> from one point to another in the relay under the hood.  I recently tried the
> hotwire and didn't find any benefit either with or without the rewire
> activated.
>
> Dan Johnson
> 1997 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:42:26 -0400
From: "anscray" <anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stereo questions

Andre,

    You have quite a few questions...  You will first need to decide if you
want to keep the stock head unit..  You can keep this unit and still apply
aftermarket equipment.. However your choices are very limited..  Personally
I think the factory amplifier doesnt quite do the job..  I have replaced the
factory amplifier with Xtant..  This is not a cheap amplifier but it will
allow you keep your factory componants if you want to.. Where as many other
amplifiers will conflict with the factory stereo..

   I also feel that Alpine is very much worth the investment, and not
overpriced..  As far as speakers go, I know that 94+ 3s have Infinty
Kappas.. Nothing wrong with these speakers as I still have them in mine for
"fill" speakers.. They help compliment the sound of a good pair of componant
tweeters and a nice 10" sub..  Prior to 94 Im unsure about what speakers
were factory installed.. Maybe someone else can help you out with that
one...  If you feel the need to replace the stock speakers I am fond of
Boston Accoustic componant and 2 or 3 way speakers..  Bostons are reasonably
priced.. If you want to spend the big bucks then get some MB quart.. Very
nice speakers but VERY expensive..

  If your 3s did not come with a factory installed CD changer output you
will have to use the remote application and or just replace the whole DIN
with a CD changer compatible DIN.. And unless you are planning on getting a
boost controller I would look for a good double DIN to complete the empty
space...

Hope this helps a little,

Scott
Green 94 VR4 / Apexi AVCR, Borla exhaust, Greddy BOV, K&N FIPK
Alpine double din
Boston Accoustic componant tweeters
10" Kicker solo baric subwoofer
Xtant running highs and mids
Xtant subwoofer amp

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 12:50:24 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?

Ae the 5 speed and 6 speed VR4 driveshafts different?  If so, are all the
sections different, or just a few?

thanks for all the info guys,
Bill

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 12:12:35 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (filter)

thanks, i'll prolly do that...

in the meantime, however - what does everybody think about mounting the
solenoid box onto the washer fluid bottle? It's pretty much right by where
the stocker sits, just lower. The instructions say to not mount it in a
"hot" place, but I don't know how hot "hot" is...

any ideas?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SBC-iD (filter)

> Get one for $14.95 from http://www.projectimport.com/
>
> Philip

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:23:40 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stereo questions

On model years 97 and up, the 3000GT SL and VR-4 came with a 210 watt
infinity head unit and amp, with 8 speakers. The speakers are not kappas, or
any other type of infinity. they are simply paper cones and tweeters with the
infinity name with power ratings of no more then 12 watts for the dash, 60
for the door, and i believe 100 for the 6x9s. the sound balancer is digital
on these

On your 92 SL, the head unit is 100 watts with 6 speakers, and a manual sound
balancer. I believe your first order should be to upgrade all the speakers,
as they blow out right away. After that you should think about upgrading the
head unit and amp. The speakers i chose were infinity kappas, And the sound
is excellent. Any aftermarket speaker with anything besides a paper cone is
far better then stock.

- -mike
97 SL

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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 10:39:39 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?

Throw out bearing rattle. - Yes, when the clutch is out the TOB should not
be spinning. However, because it is under no strain it will rattle due to
normal vibrations of the car and the spinning of the shaft that is sits
around. When the clutch is pushed in the first thing that happens is that it
grabs the TOB face and starts it spinning. The needle bearings become
stressed and the rattle stops. The rattle can be the result of too little
grease, or a missing needle, or just wear in one or more of the needles
themselves. IMHO if the rattle is not too bad, and there are no unusual
noises when the clutch is pushed in, and the gears shift OK, then the
problem is either wear, or lack of grease. Neither problem is likely to
cause immediate failure, but neither is either likely to get any better.
Sooner or later the problem will get significantly worse and the TOB will
have to be replaced. Even if the TOB looks fine and acts fine it should
automatically be replaced when a new clutch is installed or the area is
opened for inspection for some other reason.

Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin <riyan@hotpop.com>
To: Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
<x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Date: Monday, May 27, 2002 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?


>Elpidio-
>
>although it's somewhat foreign material to me, using common sense, it
sounds
>like the 2nd mechanic is right. because pressing down the clutch disengages
>the motor from the tranny, correct? hopefully the other list members will
be
>able to give more detailed info.
>
>Riyan

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:59:12 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?

how are you supposed to grease them to reduce noise/wear ?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Andrew D. Woll
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 1:40 PM
To: Riyan Mynuddin; Team3S; Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
Subject: Re: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?

Throw out bearing rattle. - Yes, when the clutch is out the TOB should not
be spinning. However, because it is under no strain it will rattle due to
normal vibrations of the car and the spinning of the shaft that is sits
around. When the clutch is pushed in the first thing that happens is that it
grabs the TOB face and starts it spinning. The needle bearings become
stressed and the rattle stops. The rattle can be the result of too little
grease, or a missing needle, or just wear in one or more of the needles
themselves. IMHO if the rattle is not too bad, and there are no unusual
noises when the clutch is pushed in, and the gears shift OK, then the
problem is either wear, or lack of grease.

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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:32:03 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.

The one thing I learned was, to only loosen the top fitting. Do not take the
hose off the top.  Then you must disconnected it from the bottom. On the
bottom, both pieces turn, unlike the top where you can only turn the hose.

I made the mistake of forcing the hose from the top off and I broke the
rubber hose.  A new one from the dealer will cost you around $70 to $80.
Yea, that right for a F*&(ing 8" hose with fitting on both sides.  I got
lucky and was able to find one at a junk yard for $10.00 most junk yards cut
this hose to take the fuel assembly out or to take the fuel tank out.

Good Luck
Moe

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Kenwabikise" <jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrading to supra fuel pump.

> Also,
> I would recommend against trying to loosen the fitting right at the top
> of the fuel pump assembly... instead undo the fitting under the car in
> front of the gas tank (it's mentioned in Jeff L's directions).  If your
> fittings are as bad as mine were, you might end up bending or cracking
> the hardline on the pump assembly, which I did :(
> If this happens to you, you have the option of buying a whole new
> assembly ($450!!) or do what I did and buy a fuel line repair kit and
> solder it all together :)  Works great and saved me $430!
>
> Joe
> 91 RT/TT black

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #857
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