Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 31
2002 Volume 01 : Number
856
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 May 2002 12:00:33 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
Thing is that my A/F
reads rich all the way, I have yet to see it go
even as low as stioch under
WOT. My EGT's don't get too terribly high
unless I'm on a hard 100mph + pull
really, even then they stick around
1600 - 1650. I only have 1.4 tank of gas
left, so I'll just drive it out
on my days off. Anyone have any suggestions
on how to get some Magnecor
wires in a day or two? Thanks!
Oh, and I
had my shop hotwire it, so I'm not sure, but I think they
probably just
bypassed it.
Thanks!!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:58 AM
To: BlackLight;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
> S#!t. I was
assuming that my backfiring was because of spark blowout.
> I've pegged
at about 1.1 bar on stock fuel system and a hotwired fuel
> pump and it
does backfire sometimes, but I'm running stock spark gap
> still (.042
right?) because I was waiting for my ignition and rest of
> my fuel
system to dig into there. So at that kind of boost level is it
> more
likely spark blowout or severe knock???
It could be spark blowout if you
are still running the stock plug gaps
at 1 bar of boost. The stock fuel
pump kinda sucks, even when hotwired.
I'd upgrade that ASAP with a Supra
pump. It could be a combination of
knock and blowout. 1.1 bar is
a little risky on the stock fuel setup
and no datalogging. It could be
fine, or it could be giving you lots of
knock. No way to know for sure,
unfortunately on the 1994-1995 models
unless you have something that'll log
timing advance for you.
When you "hotwired" the fuel pump, did you just
jumper the fuel pump
relay to not flow through the resistor at all, or did
you run heavy
gauge wire all the way back to the pump from the battery and
hook up a
relay at the pump to turn it on? If you did it the first way,
that
really doesn't help much. The second way is much more beneficial
in
making the pump flow better.
> I need some help here because I'm
going to the strip on Monday and
> need all the advice I can get! Should
I run the car dry and put in
> some 104 or 110 for my day at the
track?????
If your car is having some problems, I wouldn't recommend
going to the
dragstrip. Anything that's a minor problem on the street
is going to
turn into a very serious problem in a hurry at the strip.
If you do
decide to go to the strip, higher octane fuel will solve the
problem if
it actually is knock/detonation that you are running into.
104 octane
should be sufficient for up to 1.3 bar at least.
YMMV.
Get your plugs gapped down to .030-032" before you go to the
dragstrip
for sure.
The easy way to get any low octane fuel out of
your tank for putting in
race fuel is to take the return line hose off the
fuel pressure
regulator, run a piece of hose from the FPR to an empty gas can
and then
run a jumper wire between the fuel pump test connector by the
battery
(black connector between battery and firewall) to the positive
terminal
on the battery and pump the fuel out that way.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 15:16:49
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
Again this is why I
say tuning should be done on a load bearing awd
dyno..... a/f
gauges (like auto meter) or voltage displays (like the
jumptronics unit) are
far to inaccurate for tuning and egts can fluctuate
depending on the
particular vehicle setup.
A prime example is a friend of mine with
a GSX only made one change to his
cars setup. He swapped the turbine
housing (exhaust side) on his 20G turbo
from a 7CM to a 8cm. This
change increased lag by about 150-200rpms (I am
not dead on here) but caused
close to a 125F drop in EGT's (due to less
exhaust gas reversion) Yet on the
dyno his a/f remained the same!!!!!!!!!!
So either use a portable
wideband o2 sensor (Alamao Motorsports sells one)
or tune on a load bearing
dyno with a wide band o2, this is the only truly
accurate way to dial the car
in.
Especially with how much our stock pistons like knock :(
Again
all of this is IMHO but I speak from experience since I am currently
elbow
deep in the rebuild from HELL
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 She's down but not
out
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BlackLight
[SMTP:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 3:01
PM
> To: 'Matt Jannusch';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
>
>
Thing is that my A/F reads rich all the way, I have yet to see it go
>
even as low as stioch under WOT. My EGT's don't get too terribly high
>
unless I'm on a hard 100mph + pull really, even then they stick around
>
1600 - 1650. I only have 1.4 tank of gas left, so I'll just drive it out
>
on my days off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get some Magnecor
>
wires in a day or two? Thanks!
>
> Oh, and I had my shop hotwire
it, so I'm not sure, but I think they
> probably just bypassed it.
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Matt Nelson
> 1994 RT TT
>
BlackLight@Planetice.Net>
www.BlackLight.5u.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Jannusch
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:58
AM
> To: BlackLight;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
>
> It
could be spark blowout if you are still running the stock plug gaps
> at 1
bar of boost. The stock fuel pump kinda sucks, even when hotwired.
>
I'd upgrade that ASAP with a Supra pump. It could be a combination
of
> knock and blowout. 1.1 bar is a little risky on the stock fuel
setup
> and no datalogging. It could be fine, or it could be giving
you lots of
> knock. No way to know for sure, unfortunately on the
1994-1995 models
> unless you have something that'll log timing advance
for you.
>
> When you "hotwired" the fuel pump, did you just jumper
the fuel pump
> relay to not flow through the resistor at all, or did you
run heavy
> gauge wire all the way back to the pump from the battery and
hook up a
> relay at the pump to turn it on? If you did it the first
way, that
> really doesn't help much. The second way is much more
beneficial in
> making the pump flow better.
>
> If your car
is having some problems, I wouldn't recommend going to the
>
dragstrip. Anything that's a minor problem on the street is going
to
> turn into a very serious problem in a hurry at the strip. If
you do
> decide to go to the strip, higher octane fuel will solve the
problem if
> it actually is knock/detonation that you are running
into. 104 octane
> should be sufficient for up to 1.3 bar at
least. YMMV.
>
> Get your plugs gapped down to .030-032"
before you go to the dragstrip
> for sure.
>
> The easy way
to get any low octane fuel out of your tank for putting in
> race fuel is
to take the return line hose off the fuel pressure
> regulator, run a
piece of hose from the FPR to an empty gas can and then
> run a jumper
wire between the fuel pump test connector by the battery
> (black
connector between battery and firewall) to the positive terminal
> on the
battery and pump the fuel out that way.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 14:45:40
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Spark plug wires
I've been reading all the postings and searching the
archives for advise on
spark plug wires. My '91 VR4 has 94000 miles and
still has the OEM spark
plug sires. I'd like to know the
following:
(1) How can I tell if the current spark plug wires are under
performing?
(2) It looks like a lot of 3Srs are using Magnecor wires. I'm
wondering
what style and where do you buy them.
(3) What replacement
gaskets etc. do I need if I'm going to do the spark
plug wires?
(4)
Should I do the plugs at the same time? They were replaced at the 60k
service by the dealer.
Thanks in advance.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 17:56:13
-0400
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Stereo questions
Just to add my opinion... I took the factory
stereo out and added a Pioneer
Premier head unit and 12 disc changer. I had
enough room left underneath
that I could add another piece at any time. It
would be a good set up if you
wanted to put a boost gauge or some other sort
of thing in the spot.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert
Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: <
cerri@intersystems.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 30, 2002 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stereo
questions
> I'll toss in my coin here as I just replaced dash and door
speakers plus
> added an Infinity BassLink 200 watt self powered subwoofer
several weeks
> ago.
>
> I THINK the changer in our VR-4s is a
Pioneer. You would have to look on
the
> back panel of the head unit to
see if there is a DIN connection for the
> changer. Most likely, there
isn't and you would be best off going with a
> changer that does RF
modulation.
>
> There are 6 plugs on the back of my head unit. One
for the telescoping
> antenna, one for the rear window antenna (comprising
the "Diversity
System"
> for getting best possible RF reception), one
for the main wiring harness,
> one for the anti-theft, and 2 DIN
connectors, one going to the CD changer
> and one going to the
amp.
>
> I had a 10 pack changer in a Ford F150 that used this
hookup and it was
> great. I've seen 6 pack CD changers with this RF
modulator for under $90.
>
> Although the factory amp in my car
isn't exactly what I would call
> fantastic, it certainly works just fine.
I think it is 210 watts. My
problem
> was that my dash speakers were
shot. After finding several candidates to
> replace them with, I settled
on the JBL GTO220, which is a 2.5" cone with
a
> 1" titanium tweeter.
So that gives me two way in the dash and covers from
> 300-21Khz. Then I
discovered that my left side door speaker wasn't pumping
> out hardly any
sound. So after looking long and hard at the Infinity Kappa
> 63.2, 63.3
and all their other recent permutations, I decided on going
with
> a
straight 6.5" midrange speaker since I already had the high end covered
>
with the dash speakers. Kicker R6c is their 6.5" midrange that has a
cone
in
> the middle which unscrews so that you could screw a tweeter
in to the
center
> to have a coax speaker. Kicker R6c to each door. One
weird thing that I
> notice is that the left door speaker puts out more
volume at a given level
> than does the right side. Rear 6x9 speakers were
still kicking so I left
> them for now, although I did tear them
completely out to photograph and
> measure. One thing that I have done
that is really sweet is to add a bunch
> of Roadkill (like DynaMatt)
dampening material to the bare metal sections
of
> the rear strut
towers, inside the 6x9 speaker boxes, on the floor behind
the
> front
seats, under the carpet, covered the metal under the spare tire,
> covered
the rear deck under where I installed the BassLink and behind the
> door
speakers on the outer panel of the doors. Cuts down on road noise
by
a
> pretty decent margin.1
>
> Although the BassLink has
inputs for both RCA and line-level, I spliced a
> line output converter
onto the wiring harness at the amp so that I could
> fine tune the level
to the BassLink and use RCA patch cords for the run to
> the rear. The
BassLink turns the entire rear end of the VR-4 into a huge
> speaker box.
I have the controls set down to almost a minimum and it is
> still
thumpin' loud...
>
> Were there some 3000GT with an 8 speaker
system? Yours is a convertible
with
> 4 speakers?
>
> As
far as replacing the whole kit and caboodle, it is pretty
>
straightforward. After pulling the trim ring from the head unit, 4
screws
> come out and you pull the head unit. If I was going to replace
that much,
> I'd rewire with larger gauge speaker wire
too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:31:57
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark plug wires
I just put in Bosch Platinum plugs ($1.99/ea)
and Crane Came FireWire
ignition wires. The only replacement gasket that I
used was for the intake
plenum. Definitely do it all at the same time while
you are in there. You
will learn a lot about what is going on in your engine
by examining the
plugs that you remove. I also plan to pull it all apart
after 1,000 miles to
inspect the plugs for any weirdness.
Most
everyone has gone with the Magnacor wires and I would have too if I had
not
found a good deal on the yellow Crane Cam wires that I found. I'll
most
likely try the Magnacor - in about 50,000 miles. The replacement wires
were
a bit longer than the stock ones. I just used the existing wire looms
and
some additional yellow wire separators to route everything cleanly.
There
are 2 or 3 plastic wire separators that are under the cover that will
either
need to be Dremmeled out to fit the larger diameter wires. These
plastic
bits are very brittle from constant high temperatures so be careful
or they
will break.
I'm not sure if the plugs and wires I pulled were
installed at 60K miles
since I did not have the car then. I assume they were
the second set that
this VR-4 has seen, making the Crane Cam wires the third
set. All 6 plugs
showed various signs of being worn but it appeared that they
were replaced
at the same time way back whenever that was.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 5/30/02 3:45 PM, Michael
Gerhard at
gerhard1@llnl.gov
scribbled:
> I've been reading all the postings and searching the
archives for advise on
> spark plug wires. My '91 VR4 has 94000 miles and
still has the OEM spark
> plug sires. I'd like to know the
following:
>
> (1) How can I tell if the current spark plug wires
are under performing?
> (2) It looks like a lot of 3Srs are using Magnecor
wires. I'm wondering
> what style and where do you buy them.
> (3)
What replacement gaskets etc. do I need if I'm going to do the spark
>
plug wires?
> (4) Should I do the plugs at the same time? They were
replaced at the 60k
> service by the dealer.
>
> Thanks in
advance.
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 15:45:36
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
What would be the drawbacks to having a set of
mismatched turbos? Say if I
kept a 9B for the quick spool up and
replaced the other one with a 15G for
the high end power? I know with
such a setup you won't have the full
advantages of both but a halfway point
would be nice.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:52:46
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?]
Thanks for
the advice,
Thats exactly what I thought, turbo will not be balanced
after it is cliped unless TEC does it in the shop. Is that a correct statement?
They will balance them after they are cliped?
But my original question
is:
What does Cliping do to the CFM and what does Porting do to the
CFM?
If the 15G Turbos are rated at 405 CFM based on the Jeff's Website Will
they be about 425 CFM after Porting and Cliping?
Can someone explain the
process and can Porting be done your self?
Thank you.
Roman
G.
94 VR-4
John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>Roman,
> You can't really do either. I
would suggest you take some time and learn
>a bit more about the car you
are attempting to build. I am not attempting to
>demean you but I don't
think you know enough to be doing this. When you clip
>a turbo you
actually clipping the wheel...even if you could clip it you
>would have to
rebalance the turbo. Also...nobody reaally wants old turbo
>cores. You
might be able to get $150 for them. The $600 core charge is
>really only
there to ensure that you return your cores. It is really
>difficult to
manufacture turbos when you don't get your cores back. If it
>was easy to
rebuild them into 13Gs and sell them....why is it that only
>Dynamic does
it? Do you really think you can do it cheaper than they
can?
>
>JP
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 02:08:03
+0200
From: "Primus Motor AS" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
Short block wanted for a 1991 Stealth RT T/T...
... still looking for a
engine solution !! (... and, many thanks for the
many answers I got on my
previous question regarding a possible upgrade to a
Model 2000
engine).
Does anyone know what a short block would cost for a 1991
Stealth RT T/T ?
Any good tips as to where I should buy that ? (i.a. a
company that is
serious + that will give a good price).
Thank you very
much for your assistance.
Best regards,
Roger L.
Skoglund
Primus Motor AS
Postboks 4646 Nydalen, 0405
Oslo
Kontor-/besøksadresse: Olaf Schousvei 7, 0572 Oslo
Telefon: 22 38 38
22
Telefax: 22 87 07 71
Web side:
http://primusmotor.noE-mail:
info@primusmotor.no***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:14:22
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
Is not gonna work the way you want it
to... Abandon the idea... It
would take a lot of custom plumbing
and a very complex hose system to
make it work the way you want it
to...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Thursday, May
30, 2002 5:46 PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Mismatched
Turbos
What would be the drawbacks to having a set of mismatched
turbos? Say
if I
kept a 9B for the quick spool up and replaced the
other one with a 15G
for
the high end power? I know with such a
setup you won't have the full
advantages of both but a halfway point would be
nice.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:27:25
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
> > What would be the drawbacks to having
a set of
> > mismatched turbos? Say if I kept a 9B for
the
> > quick spool up and replaced the other one with
> > a
15G for the high end power?
> Is not gonna work the way you want it
to... Abandon the
> idea... It would take a lot of custom
plumbing and a
> very complex hose system to make it work the way you
want
> it to...
Cody, can you explain that a little more? I
thought that the 15Gs were
bolt-in replacements for the stock turbos and
required little/no
modifications... Thus you could just replace one of
the stock turbos with a
15G and be done with it... I think. Or are you
implying converting to a
sequential turbo set up?
AFAIK, the
disadvantages would be unbalanced backpressure in the exhaust and
possible
boost weirdness if you use a fuzzy-logic boost controller...
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:31:41
-0400
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension questions and autox videos
Ok 3/s gurus.....
Here are
some autocross videos of me in my 3KGT if anyone wants to have a
look.
Any advise on what I can do to stop the body roll? It just seems
so
excessive.
I would assume a good place to start would be to lower
the car. What shocks
and spring would you recommend. Keep in mind
this is a non turbo, so my
choices seem pretty limited. Also, what
about bigger front and/or rear sway
bars? Any thoughts or
suggestions? I don't mind sacrificing the ride some
for a better
handling car.
FYI, I have the TEC front strut brace and the cusco non
adjustable rear
strut brace installed. Suspension is totally
stock.
www.wbwebsol.com/kyscca/files/Wayne_4-7-02_5th_run.mpgwww.wbwebsol.com/kyscca/files/Wayne_5-19-02_2nd_run.mpgThanks
for the help,
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:43:47
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
Its like this.
Turbo A spools
quicker, but cant flow up high.
Turbo B spools later, but flows well up
high.
With me?
SO..turbo A will have to develop airflow down low,
to work with ALL 3L of
displacement..can you say "undersized"? Because
turbo B wont be working
well down low.
At at high RPMs, turbo B will
flow well, but turbo A will be dead by then
in flow terms..so now turbo B has
to flow for ALL 3L of displacement.
Without a very complicated system
like the RX7TT or Supra TT, what you
wanna do just wont work.
On Thu,
30 May 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
> > > What would be the
drawbacks to having a set of
> > > mismatched turbos? Say if I
kept a 9B for the
> > > quick spool up and replaced the other one
with
> > > a 15G for the high end power?
>
> > Is
not gonna work the way you want it to... Abandon the
> >
idea... It would take a lot of custom plumbing and a
> > very
complex hose system to make it work the way you want
> > it
to...
>
> Cody, can you explain that a little more? I thought
that the 15Gs were
> bolt-in replacements for the stock turbos and
required little/no
> modifications... Thus you could just replace
one of the stock turbos with a
> 15G and be done with it... I think.
Or are you implying converting to a
> sequential turbo set up?
>
> AFAIK, the disadvantages would be unbalanced backpressure in the
exhaust and
> possible boost weirdness if you use a fuzzy-logic boost
controller...
>
> --Erik
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and
race them all. Dont you?
Got Brakes? I've got
savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:39:33
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: SBC-iD
Hey all -
I got my SBC-iD in
today and just have one quick question - how do i run
all the wiring from the
engine compartment to the inside?
thanks,
Alex
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:40:42
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: rechroming...
Hey - does anyone know of a shop that'tll do a good
job rechroming a rim for
<200 per wheel?
Thanks,
Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:48:36
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
> Turbo A spools quicker, but cant flow up
high.
>
> Turbo B spools later, but flows well up high.
Ok,
so that makes sense (including the part I left out)... What about
if
you use 2 turbos that are closer in their efficiency ranges (like a 9B and
a
13G).
It seems to me that you'd have slightly more lag than with the
stock setup
(but better than two 13Gs) and you'd have better top-end since
the 13G can
flow more air at high boost/RPM. The 13G isn't
totally useless at low RPM,
and the 9B isn't totally useless at
6000RPM... I think :-)
Not to mention you wouldn't have to remove
that @#$% rear turbo :-)
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:58:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
True..but when you get down to it, the two
turbos will come to some sort
of middleground on flow. Below that you
wont get enough air, above that
you wont get enough air...because on either
end of that very narrow point,
ONE turbo will have to try to flow for its own
1.5L of motor AND the
deficiency that the turbo for the other 1.5L cant
produce (plus you have
to add in the unusually hot exit charge from the
undersized turbo).
On Thu, 30 May 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
>
> Turbo A spools quicker, but cant flow up high.
> >
> >
Turbo B spools later, but flows well up high.
>
> Ok, so that makes
sense (including the part I left out)... What about if
> you use 2
turbos that are closer in their efficiency ranges (like a 9B and a
>
13G).
>
> It seems to me that you'd have slightly more lag than
with the stock setup
> (but better than two 13Gs) and you'd have better
top-end since the 13G can
> flow more air at high boost/RPM.
The 13G isn't totally useless at low RPM,
> and the 9B isn't totally
useless at 6000RPM... I think :-)
>
> Not to mention you
wouldn't have to remove that @#$% rear turbo :-)
>
>
--Erik
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont
you?
Got Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts
catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 17:08:57
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
rechroming...
Try, Wheels America. 888-434-9746 Mention NASA Or Team3s
for a discount.
John
Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> Hey - does
anyone know of a shop that'tll do a good job rechroming a rim for
>
<200 per wheel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:44:06
EDT
From:
MaxNix@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
In a message dated 5/30/02 7:15:54 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
overclck@satx.rr.com
writes:
<< Is not gonna work the way you want it to...
Abandon the idea... It
would take a lot of custom plumbing and a
very complex hose system to
make it work the way you want it
to...
-Cody
>>
I believe Jack
(Xwing) did this on his '93 car. (one 9B and one 15G). I
think he said it
worked ok, but wasnt' impressively fast.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 17:48:56
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mismatched Turbos
There's a guy on the 3SI.org site that's running a 9
and a 13 ---- It's a
temporary setup but he's had it in for some time and has
run some
good ¼ mile times.
I've been trying to talk one of the NA
guys to run an assysemetric setup,
a 9b on the front should be fairly easy to
do. 5 psi should be fairly easy
to get on one
9b.
Jim Berry
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
True..but when you get down to it, the two turbos will come to some sort
>
of middleground on flow. Below that you wont get enough air, above
that
> you wont get enough air...because on either end of that very narrow
point,
> ONE turbo will have to try to flow for its own 1.5L of motor AND
the
> deficiency that the turbo for the other 1.5L cant produce (plus you
have
> to add in the unusually hot exit charge from the undersized
turbo).
>
> On Thu, 30 May 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
>
>
> > Turbo A spools quicker, but cant flow up high.
> >
>
> > > Turbo B spools later, but flows well up high.
>
>
> > Ok, so that makes sense (including the part I left
out)... What about if
> > you use 2 turbos that are closer in
their efficiency ranges (like a 9B and a
> > 13G).
> >
>
> It seems to me that you'd have slightly more lag than with the stock
setup
> > (but better than two 13Gs) and you'd have better top-end
since the 13G can
> > flow more air at high boost/RPM. The
13G isn't totally useless at low RPM,
> > and the 9B isn't totally
useless at 6000RPM... I think :-)
> >
> > Not to mention
you wouldn't have to remove that @#$% rear turbo :-)
> >
> >
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:03:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension questions and autox videos
Try the Ground Control
adjustable ride height kit with Eibach stiffer
springs. Also consider
aftermarket front and rear antisway bars. They
should do a lot more to
stiffen the car than the strut tower braces alone.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne Bonnett
[SMTP:wayne@wbwebsol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 6:32 PM
>
To: Team3S; 3sracers; Starnet3/s
> Subject: Team3S: Suspension questions
and autox videos
> Importance: High
> Sensitivity:
Confidential
>
> Ok 3/s gurus.....
>
> Here are some
autocross videos of me in my 3KGT if anyone wants to have a
> look.
Any advise on what I can do to stop the body roll? It just seems
>
so
> excessive.
>
> I would assume a good place to start
would be to lower the car. What
> shocks
> and spring would
you recommend. Keep in mind this is a non turbo, so my
> choices
seem pretty limited. Also, what about bigger front and/or rear
>
sway
> bars? Any thoughts or suggestions? I don't mind
sacrificing the ride
> some
> for a better handling car.
>
> FYI, I have the TEC front strut brace and the cusco non adjustable
rear
> strut brace installed. Suspension is totally stock.
>
>
www.wbwebsol.com/kyscca/files/Wayne_4-7-02_5th_run.mpg>
>
www.wbwebsol.com/kyscca/files/Wayne_5-19-02_2nd_run.mpg>
> Thanks for the help,
> Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:07:50
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
Drag (long)
You should readjust your clutch pedal. If that doesn't help,
it sounds
like a problem with your clutch hydraulics. Your problem happened
to me
before... except a little worse. It normally happens when the
clutch
slave or master cylinder is on their way out... usually the slave.
It's
not too hard to replace the slave... and is relatively cheap brand
new
from mitsu. The clutch master cyl however is more of a PITA to
get
out... and a little more costly. Mitsu does however make a clutch
master
rebuild kit that I have used and, it definitely works. Unless there
are
deep scores in the cylinder walls (highly unlikely, but could happen
if
dirt gets in), the rebuild kit replace all the wearable items...
the
spring, piston (the rubber seal on it tends to shrink) and
piston
stopper. IMO this will probably fix your problem.
Omar
Black
92 R/T
- -----Original Message-----
Hi guys,
How do I diagnose
excessive clutch drag when the clutch is in the
disengaged
position, and
if present, how do I correct it?
Thanks,
- --Erik
'95 Black on
White VR-4 (parts)
'95 White on Black VR-4 (whee!)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:30:59
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suspension questions and autox videos
I could not open those
movies so I can not see what is going on. Make
sure they are the right
links and let me know so I can help.
However, this has been discussed
before but stiffening the front will
increase the amount of understeer so
what you most likely want to do is
remove the front brace and keep the rear
brace and then add a rear
anti-sway bar.
Springs/shocks will be your
biggest advantage on AutoX body roll (also
on road courses but not nearly as
much body roll as an AutoX event).
Then once you have the car stiffer and
lower you might have oversteer
and then you can add the front brace back to
bring it back toward
neutral.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Wayne Bonnett
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002
19:32
Here are some autocross videos of me in my 3KGT if anyone
wants to have
a
look. Any advise on what I can do to stop the body
roll? It just seems
so
excessive.
I would assume a good place
to start would be to lower the car. What
shocks
and spring would you
recommend. Keep in mind this is a non turbo, so my
choices seem pretty
limited. Also, what about bigger front and/or rear
sway
bars?
Any thoughts or suggestions? I don't mind sacrificing the
ride
some
for a better handling car.
FYI, I have the TEC front
strut brace and the cusco non adjustable rear
strut brace installed.
Suspension is totally stock.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:50:02
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
> Its like this.
>
> Turbo A
spools quicker, but cant flow up high.
>
> Turbo B spools later, but
flows well up high.
>
> With me?
>
>
> SO..turbo A
will have to develop airflow down low, to work with ALL 3L of
>
displacement..can you say "undersized"? Because turbo B wont be
working
> well down low.
This has the built in assumption that
turbo B will be flowing next to
nothing.
Let me just make up some
numbers here.
Let's say that Tubo A(250 cfm max) flows 75% low end 100%
mid and 25% high
end. Tubo B(400 cfm max) flows 25% low, 75% mid and
100% high end.
At low end you would have 187.5(turbo A) + 100(turbo B)
cfm = 287.5cfm.
Less than having two turbo A's but more than 2 turbo
B's.
Mid would be 250(A) + 300(B) = 550 cfm.
High would be 62.5(A)
+ 400(B) = 462.5 cfm.
Again, if they setup worked then it would be a
COMPROMISE between the two
turbos. My question would be would it
work? It seems that someone has
already done this or something similar
to it. Does anyone know what the
real world results
are?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 19:01:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mismatched Turbos
Either way, one of the turbos will be more
efficient at a given RPM/flow
rate, and that one turbo will be taking more
than its share of burden to
make up for the underperforming turbo.
The
tradeoff isnt worth it..one turbo will always be taxed to make up for
the
other.
On Thu, 30 May 2002, dakken wrote:
> > Its like
this.
> >
> > Turbo A spools quicker, but cant flow up
high.
> >
> > Turbo B spools later, but flows well up
high.
> >
> > With me?
> >
> >
> >
SO..turbo A will have to develop airflow down low, to work with ALL 3L
of
> > displacement..can you say "undersized"? Because turbo B
wont be working
> > well down low.
>
> This has the built
in assumption that turbo B will be flowing next to
> nothing.
>
> Let me just make up some numbers here.
>
> Let's say that
Tubo A(250 cfm max) flows 75% low end 100% mid and 25% high
> end.
Tubo B(400 cfm max) flows 25% low, 75% mid and 100% high end.
>
>
At low end you would have 187.5(turbo A) + 100(turbo B) cfm = 287.5cfm.
>
Less than having two turbo A's but more than 2 turbo B's.
>
> Mid
would be 250(A) + 300(B) = 550 cfm.
>
> High would be 62.5(A) +
400(B) = 462.5 cfm.
>
> Again, if they setup worked then it would
be a COMPROMISE between the two
> turbos. My question would be would
it work? It seems that someone has
> already done this or something
similar to it. Does anyone know what the
> real world results
are?
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
Geoff
Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all. Dont you?
Got
Brakes? I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at
http://www.speedtoys.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:16:21
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?]
> Thats exactly what I thought,
turbo will not be
> balanced after it is cliped unless TEC does it
in
> the shop. Is that a correct statement? They will
> balance them
after they are cliped?
If it is clipped from the original
manufacturer/fabricator then it should be
VSR balanced after being
clipped. If a tuner shop is doing the clipping
themselves, then beware
and go elsewhere.
> But my original question is: What does Cliping
do
> to the CFM and what does Porting do to the
> CFM? If the 15G
Turbos are rated at 405 CFM
> based on the Jeff's Website Will they be
about
> 425 CFM after Porting and Cliping?
I'm not an expert on it,
but porting usually takes casting flaws and
porosity out of the exhaust side
inlet and can also smooth and enlarge the
exhaust outlet side (O2 housing
side, wastegate) for a little better flow.
When I ported my 14b turbo on my
Eclipse basically I followed a guide that
showed how to grind away the gasket
ring land and smooth the intake to the
turbo. That helped spoolup a
little bit, and the turbo seemed to flow a
little better on the
top-end. I don't think it helps the CFM flow limit,
but response is
more what you are after with porting, or correcting problems
like boost creep
from too small a wastegate bypass.
I wouldn't clip a turbo.
Clipping helps exhaust flow at the expense of
spoolup. Realistically,
if you are clipping your turbos then you should
really instead consider a
larger exhaust housing turbo than the one you are
clipping. Clipping is
really a fix for an undersized exhaust housing
(although it could easily be
argued that the typical 13G and 15G exhaust
sides are undersized for their
use, and a 14B or 16G would be a better
match - but then you have exhaust
flange issues and intercooler piping to
work out).
> Can someone
explain the process and can Porting be done your self?
You could smooth
the inlets a little, but I wouldn't go much beyond that.
Just remove casting
porosity and any casting lines. My turbos were ported
when I got them,
so I haven't seen unported 15G's to compare to. If you
want to port
them, you'll need an air compressor large enough to run a die
grinder, a die
grinder and carbide bits and probably a few grinding stones
of various shapes
to smooth it out good. Don't go too nuts, because you
want to preserve
exhaust velocity to help spin the turbo, and also want to
keep the exhaust
hot.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 23:33:18
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Drag (long)
I'm having the same problem. A couple of
questions -
How do i adjust the pedal?
What fluid should i use to
bleed the clutch and is the procedure
documented
somewhere?
Thanks,
Alex.
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
To: "'Gross, Erik'" <
erik.gross@intel.com>; "'Team3S List
(E-mail)'"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Drag
(long)
> You should readjust your clutch pedal. If that doesn't help,
it sounds
> like a problem with your clutch hydraulics. Your problem
happened to me
> before... except a little worse. It normally happens when
the clutch
> slave or master cylinder is on their way out... usually the
slave. It's
> not too hard to replace the slave... and is relatively cheap
brand new
> from mitsu. The clutch master cyl however is more of a PITA to
get
> out... and a little more costly. Mitsu does however make a clutch
master
> rebuild kit that I have used and, it definitely works. Unless
there are
> deep scores in the cylinder walls (highly unlikely, but could
happen if
> dirt gets in), the rebuild kit replace all the wearable
items... the
> spring, piston (the rubber seal on it tends to shrink) and
piston
> stopper. IMO this will probably fix your problem.
>
>
Omar
> Black 92 R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:56:06
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Drag (long)
> What fluid should i use to bleed the
clutch and is the procedure
documented
> somewhere?
The clutch
takes brake fluid. Dot 3 or better. It is bled the same way
as
brakes. The steps are here:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQbleed.htmYou
can do it with one person by buying a single person bleeding kit at most
auto
parts stores for about $4.
To get to the clutch bleed value, remove the
battery, remove the battery
box, remove the battery support with the wiper
fluid resevor attatched,
disconnect the wiper fluid resevor electrical
connector, place it out of the
way. Then you can get to the bleed
screw. It is on top of the transmission
under the engine. A very
awkward place but not too hard to access.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 02:36:45
EDT
From:
Keisuke6G72@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
16" Wheels and Tires for Sale $200
Hey Team, just giving a recap as to
what I'm selling
All 4 Chrome Wheels by ULTRA including tires on
them, Eagle GT+4 225/55.
These wheels came off of a first gen 3000GT
SL, fwd.
<A HREF="
http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000287.JPG">http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000287.JPG</A>
<A
HREF="
http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG">http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG
</A>
Reason why I am selling them is for more money to
modify my car. These
wheels were on the car when I bought her, since
this January though I was
lucky enough to get a set of the 18" Chrome wheels
off a VR-4.
$200 would give me enough to get a catback exhaust from a
VR-4 to add to my
car, but if someone has any performance parts they would
be willing to trade
I am also up for negotiations :)
The Bad
News: One of the four wheels has a slight chip in it as pictured in
the
second link. The other 3 wheels are great. Tire tread is near new
but
as I was weighing the wheels today to formulate shipping I noticed that
the
one wheel with the chip caught 3, count em three, nails. The
wheels have
been sitting in my garage since January and still have held
normal tire
pressure but I wanted everyone to know as I just found them
today. I have
looked over each wheel and tire meticulously and those
are the bad parts, the
slight chip and nails in one tire =(
Weight is about 50 lbs per wheel/tire with air left in the tires, making
the
shipping weight 190~200 lbs. I live in Virginia Beach VA;
Tomorrow I will
be getting shipping quotes. PLUS this weekend a Team
3S member is driving
though and will be giving a third-party evaluation of
the wheels. If I
missed anything let me know and I will
reply. Thanks for the help guys!
Scott
Keisuke6g72@aol.com91 3000GT
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 14:24:31
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SBC-iD
One harness in the box. It only connects to the valve
box.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I
got my SBC-iD in today and just have one quick question - how do i
run
>all the wiring from the engine compartment to the
inside?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:25:30
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
Ok,
Set boost down
to <15psi with no effect. Next question if this is severe knock why would it
happen suddenly and how can it be diagnosed? Are there telltale signs of a
cracked piston?
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Thu 30/05/2002 11:47 AM
To: Ben M.
Jones;
team3s@team3s.com Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine
>
Will try it. I do run only 94Octane
> How can you tell if your getting
extreme knock? I can't hear anything
nasty.
Missing, backfiring,
hesitation... All potential signs of serious knock.
Hopefully you
didn't crack any pistons in the process. It is unfortunately
very easy
to do on these cars.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 13:06:23
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: rechroming...
Mine cost $100 from Inland Wheel in San
bernardino,CA.
They checked for damage and trueness, then sent them out
somewhere.
If you are not close, look them up and find out who they deal
with.
My wheels still look great after almost 3 years. I just couldn't
find anything in the right size that I liked better than stock rims. At least
not for less than $300 each, and I knew I had to get a set of track wheels+tires
as well.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Sheehan
[mailto:Johns@KYSO.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 5:09 PM
To: Alex
Pedenko
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
rechroming...
Try, Wheels America. 888-434-9746 Mention NASA Or Team3s
for a discount.
John
Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> Hey - does
anyone know of a shop that'tll do a good job rechroming a rim for
>
<200 per wheel?
>
>
Thanks,
>
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:01:51
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: u-joints bad, what options?
Well I just found out that the
u-joints on my driveshaft are bad. Can I
just buy them from
a Mitsu dealer and have them put on? The mechanic said
that they would
have to be put on by a driveline specialist since they were
pressed on.
Also, he said the "carrier" is bad too. I trust the mechanic,
and he
showed me how the movements were not smooth on the u-joints.
How
expensive is this usually? Does anyone have an aftermarket
driveshaft that
they are selling for cheap
:)
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#856
***************************************
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![http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG">http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG](http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG">http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG){kind=link}