Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Thursday, May 30 2002    Volume 01 : Number 855




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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 14:31:32 -0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

It would seem this is good timing.
I have a 95 Stealth TT AWD with Extreme motorsports manual boost control, ATR 3" exhaust and downpipe, K&N Filter. Rest is stock and I run 94Octane
 
Short time ago the car started to miss/backfire/hesitate, overall not happy in 2nd gear and up at 3/4 throttle or more. I took the car off the road thinking my timing belt jumped a tooth. I did a full tune up - New Plugs(Platinum NGK), Water pump, Timing belt, etc.(it was near time anyway) The original timing was fine but THE Problem still exists. I'm in Toronto with no Mitsu Dealer and the Chrysler dealer has no idea what it could be. They said the OBD doesn't give any info unless a check engine is tripped and that hasn't happened.
 
Ideas?

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wed 29/05/2002 1:28 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

> >So any car in the world?  What is holding us second gen folks up from
> >getting some numbers off our cars then?

You can't get numbers OUT OF THE ECU ! But you can connect a multimeter to
any wire you want ;-)

> Nothing is stopping me now. Other than the mysterious knock sensor output
> reading/processing/interpretation. Maybe someone could help me program the
> LabJack or burn some chips to log more frequencies, duty cycles and the
> ignition timing advance. I am currently looking for a frequency-DC voltage
> converter chip.

No chance ! You need aspectrum analyzer and programmable filter for the
knock sensor and you have to analyze an analog audio signal and not a simple
voltage. Or build a single channel amplifier with a bandpass filter in the
desired region. The output should show slight voltage increase during knock.
This can then be made visible.

Duty cycle and igntiion timign advance should not be a problem but the
logging frequency may be not enough to measure the difference in degrees. I
did this years ago with an RS232 board and 8 analogue inputs and did not
come to a good and cheap solution.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:44:27 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> Short time ago the car started to miss/backfire/hesitate,
> overall not happy in 2nd gear and up at 3/4 throttle or
> more. I took the car off the road thinking my timing belt
> jumped a tooth. I did a full tune up - New Plugs
> (Platinum NGK), Water pump, Timing belt, etc.(it was
> near time anyway) The original timing was fine but THE
> Problem still exists.

Did you replace the plug wires?  What are the new plugs gapped to?  Plug
wires seem to last about 60,000 miles or so, and the rear bank ones get
pretty cooked over time.  Gap for running 15 psi of boost is around .032",
wider gaps can cause some spark missing.

Those are the easiest things to check/try, if neither of those is the
problem then we can go on from there...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:00:31 -0400
From: "Andre Cerri" <cerri@intersystems.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stereo questions

New to the list and 3000GTs so 'scuse the dumb questions or if these have
been posted before....email me direct if appropriate.

92 3000GT SL.
Comes with a complex stereo with tape, and a CD jack. Stereo appears to be a
bunch of preset modes and equaliser settings. Doesn't sound too bad
considering it's age and FM. My reference point though is higher end Alpine
head units and amps so need to know what upgrades will be worth it.

Questions:

Can you hook a changer up to it? Or only a portable to the jack on the
front? If the former, how? What 'brand' of changer is linkable?

What are the results like? Past experience with quality of factory unit amps
ranges from disastrous to pretty darn good. Any comments?

Or, failing all the above, how tough a job is it to remove the thing totally
and just put a standard DIN unit in? What is the stock system comprised of?

How about the quality of factory speakers? Good replacements out there? I
seem to have a pair of rear facing units firing backwards behind the rear
seat. is this stock?

Cheers

Andre
92 3000GT SL convertible

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:43:03 -0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

Roger,

I'm not an expert here, but if you say that you can take the ARC2 output
signal and feed it to the SAFC input for further processing.  OK.  Then,
why can we not do the same with 2 SAFCs.  In theory, we should be able
to take the output signal from SAFC #1 and feed it to input of SAFC #2.
Then, after further processing, we should attain the same result as with
an ARC2 and SAFC in series.

What does the ECU do at WOT when ARC2 is connected to it?  I don't see
how the issue is any different with 2 SAFCs.  If you are referring to
timing, that can be taken care of with an ITC, correct?

I'm just trying to understand this stuff better.  If others agree with
Roger, who knows more about these cars than I do, then, that's how these
things work, and I'll leave it alone.  If not, tell me what you think.

- -MIHAI-
95 3000GT VR4

Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:24:52 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

The assumption is wrong that a SAFC does anything in percentage. It's
just
to make life easier for the user but in fact it just alters the
frequency
and voltage of the input signal

What will the ECU do at WOT when it becomes a signal like beeing
on 10% throttle ? The map is wrong then for sure. So the limitation of
the
SAFC is the lowest frequency that cannot be devided anymore.

An ARC II together with an SAFC for fine tuning can be used in serial
connection.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 14:55:56 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

Let me sort of ask the same question:

I have a set of 560cc injectors. Bought 'em used.
I plan to put them in when we install 15Gs this winter.
At present, I have Alamo intercoolers, K&N, Blitz DSBC, Blitz BOV, Stillen downpipe, custom catback, and Supra fuel pump.

I'd like to put in some sort of water injection system to keep things cool.

What would be the ideal A/F controller setup for all this?
What instrumentation do I need to keep from blowing things up?
My application is road racing, where we run WOT for 20 minutes at a time.

Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 14:54:47 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hood Blisters

What color?

Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To: "team3s stealth-3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Team3S: Hood Blisters

> I'am looking for a set of 1gen hood blisters if anyone has a set for sell
> please contact me. Mike S 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 14:24:05 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

Do you have an aftermarket  boost gauge and if so what is the boost
pressure. If you don't have one, get one, and then get back with the
information on boost pressure.

        Jim Berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>

> It would seem this is good timing.
> I have a 95 Stealth TT AWD with Extreme motorsports manual boost control, ATR 3" exhaust and downpipe, K&N Filter. Rest is stock
and I run 94Octane
>
> Short time ago the car started to miss/backfire/hesitate, overall not happy in 2nd gear and up at 3/4 throttle or more. I took the
car off the road thinking my timing belt jumped a tooth. I did a full tune up - New Plugs(Platinum NGK), Water pump, Timing belt,
etc.(it was near time anyway) The original timing was fine but THE Problem still exists. I'm in Toronto with no Mitsu Dealer and the
Chrysler dealer has no idea what it could be. They said the OBD doesn't give any info unless a check engine is tripped and that
hasn't happened.
>
> Ideas?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 23:42:53 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

> I'm not an expert here, but if you say that you can take the ARC2 output
> signal and feed it to the SAFC input for further processing.  OK.

I said FINE TUNING. This means to provide the ARC the 0,5% or 1% setting it
cannot provide.

> why can we not do the same with 2 SAFCs.  In theory, we should be able
> to take the output signal from SAFC #1 and feed it to input of SAFC #2.
> Then, after further processing, we should attain the same result as with
> an ARC2 and SAFC in series.

Technically you're rght ! But the signal should not be devided more due to
the error of frequency shift. You can add one but only to gain a few percent
if any. The output may fluctuating due to the error in the low input signal
when you want to correct for more. As said as a fine tuning tool it works
good (like it does for the VPC)

> What does the ECU do at WOT when ARC2 is connected to it?  I don't see
> how the issue is any different with 2 SAFCs.  If you are referring to
> timing, that can be taken care of with an ITC, correct?

The ITC is too rough IMHO, so it should only be used for retardings in the
higher area. The output cannot be logged then of course.

At WOT the frequency is high enough for two but I speak of the lower region
where we would run into problems due to the extremely low frequency the ECU
probably doesn't understand, fuel and ignition MAP wise. I don't say it will
not work but technically there are more probems involved with two devices
than with only one and an additional fine tuning device.

You can easily test this with an old AFC one can get cheap that is able to
make steps in 2%. Simply set it before the SAFC and reduce all settings over
the rpm band to 30% (the max it can do). With the SAFC afterwards you can
then fine tune the already low output signal (30% reduced frequency) until
you are satisfied with the result. This should work until the ECU gives the
Engine light as it thinks that there is something wrong with the MAS due to
the low signal.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 19:40:45 -0400
From: romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?

Since I am ordering TEC 15G turbos instead of DR650,
I wanted to know why do people port and clip turbos?
What does each one produce? Is it more CFM???
and How much should I pay?
AAM want to charge me $90 for cliping each Turbo and 80 for Porting each Turbo. That sounds like alot.

I am ordering SAFC, Supra Pump, Denso 660cc injectors, EGT gauge and 15G TEC turbos.

I chose 15G turbos over DR650 because the difference is in $200 and a Core.
15G's are $1900 from AAM and I do not need to return my core.
There is only 10CFM difference between the two.

Thank you for your responces.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 19:34:55 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjustable struts

While we're at it...  Has anyone run across adjustable struts for
non-turbos???  I would LOVE to find a set...  Even if they're $1500, I
want em...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of merritt@cedar-rapids.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:46 AM
To: dakken; Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Adjustable struts

>
>There are plenty of other non adjustible alternatives out on the
market.
>You can see a wide selection of them by going to
http://www.stealth316.com
>and looking up the links.
>
Been there, done that.
Instead of looking up every link, finding a company that claims to have
struts, then finding out that they are discontinued, I'd rather just
repeat the original question:

Does anyone know where we can find aftermarket struts for a 3000GT VR4?
Who REALLY has struts available?
Is there a source for GABs anywhere in the U.S.?

Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 17:41:52 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

I am sorry if this has been asked already, but can this device monitor
knock?!?!?

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 11:12 PM
To: Team3S@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

I bought a LabJack at www.labjack.com and used it to log some data on my

'95 TT. Check out my page
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/labjack.html.

It confirmed some of my suspicions about the still persisting spark
blowout. I guess it is time to get better coils (or try copper plugs)
since
I already have Magnecor wires and Denso Iridiums gapped at 0.032".

Questions:

1) What are those "copper plugs" that I could buy for a dollar a piece?
I
need to know the brand, the heat range and where to buy them.

2) What has been concluded during those recent aftermarket ignition coil

tests? Should I get the Accell 6-pack from the GN or should I get the
Accell individual motorcycle coils? If I buy the GN 6-pack, and then
decide
to still upgrade to the DIS-4 HO, will I be biting my elbows that I did
not
get the individual motorcycle coils?

3) Do you guys think my O2 readings are normal? I hope my O2 sensors are

okay. I ran my SAFC at the +5% richer setting across the board. The
front
O2 is acting weird - it reads a little leaner than the rear. It also
sometimes lags and sometimes leads the readings of the rear O2, which
seems
to be a little more stable. I hope to get more stable O2 readings once I

fix that ignition.

Thanks,

Philip
'95 Red R/T TT
Apexi AVC-R, S-AFC, S-ITC
Magnecor wires, Denso Iridiums gapped at 0.032"
Everything else is almost stock

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:48:16 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

Are you saying that if you use the ITC, then you cannot see the retarding on
the pocketlogger (for all cars)?  So the pocketlogger see basically what the
value is before the retarding --- what the ECM is seeing I presume, which is
to prevent the ECM from attempting to advance the timing back to what it
feels is correct??

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:43 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

> timing, that can be taken care of with an ITC, correct?

The ITC is too rough IMHO, so it should only be used for retardings in the
higher area. The output cannot be logged then of course.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 21:58:12 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

No knock logging. But...

A laptop sound card would be a perfect tool to use to log knock. Could any
of the geeks on the list write a software for it?

Philip

At 20:41 5/29/2002, BlackLight wrote:
>I am sorry if this has been asked already, but can this device monitor
>knock?!?!?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:01:46 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

You can use a simple oscilloscope to verify if the ITC works. I will try it
when I get a chance.

Philip

>The ITC is too rough IMHO, so it should only be used for retardings in the
>higher area. The output cannot be logged then of course.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:01:46 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

You can use a simple oscilloscope to verify if the ITC works. I will try it
when I get a chance.

Philip

>The ITC is too rough IMHO, so it should only be used for retardings in the
>higher area. The output cannot be logged then of course.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:53:32 -0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

The wires are Magnecor installed about 25,000km ago. Pretty sure the plugs were at .32 before replacing them and still had problem

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Wed 29/05/2002 2:44 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> Short time ago the car started to miss/backfire/hesitate,
> overall not happy in 2nd gear and up at 3/4 throttle or
> more. I took the car off the road thinking my timing belt
> jumped a tooth. I did a full tune up - New Plugs
> (Platinum NGK), Water pump, Timing belt, etc.(it was
> near time anyway) The original timing was fine but THE
> Problem still exists.

Did you replace the plug wires?  What are the new plugs gapped to?  Plug
wires seem to last about 60,000 miles or so, and the rear bank ones get
pretty cooked over time.  Gap for running 15 psi of boost is around .032",
wider gaps can cause some spark missing.

Those are the easiest things to check/try, if neither of those is the
problem then we can go on from there...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 22:54:37 -0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

Yes aftermarket Extreme XBC running about 18psi

-----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Wed 29/05/2002 5:24 PM
To: Ben M. Jones; team3s@team3s.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

Do you have an aftermarket  boost gauge and if so what is the boost
pressure. If you don't have one, get one, and then get back with the
information on boost pressure.

        Jim Berry

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:10:48 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

What happens when you drop the boost to 12 psi ?????????

        Jim Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>

> Yes aftermarket Extreme XBC running about 18psi

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:40:51 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: 450cc injectors for sale...

I've got 7 450cc injectors from a 1st gen DSM with under 60K miles on
them.  I'm asking $120 plus shipping.  Let me know privately if you're
interested.  This is a great upgrade for stock turbos or 13Gs.  I've
heard, but don't know for sure, that you can run atleast 15-16 psi to
redline with 450s and a S-AFC (turbo flow permitting).

Thanks
Damon

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 00:50:40 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

He-he! I AM GOING TO LOG KNOCK.

I can convert a .wav sound file into plain ASCII text with the GoldWave
software. The sampling rate of 96 kHz is not a problem for the sound card
and knock has a frequency in the 10K - 20K Hz range. Stereo means that two
channel logging is possible, knock and crank position or whatever I want,
maybe boost. I need to use voltage dividers on both channels to reduce
voltage to the millivolt level that the sound card can handle. Yahoo-oo!

Philip

At 21:58 5/29/2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>A laptop sound card would be a perfect tool to use to log knock. Could any
>of the geeks on the list write a software for it?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 01:13:16 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

If there are any volunteers to help me, here is a link to the page of the
guy who tried a similar thing on a DSM. He verified that he indeed was
listening to knock by also logging knock sum with a TMO logger.

http://home.netcom.com/~bsundahl/knock/sound/KnockSounds.htm

Philip

At 00:50 5/30/2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>He-he! I AM GOING TO LOG KNOCK.
>
>I can convert a .wav sound file into plain ASCII text with the GoldWave
>software. The sampling rate of 96 kHz is not a problem for the sound card
>and knock has a frequency in the 10K - 20K Hz range. Stereo means that two
>channel logging is possible, knock and crank position or whatever I want,
>maybe boost. I need to use voltage dividers on both channels to reduce
>voltage to the millivolt level that the sound card can handle. Yahoo-oo!
>
>Philip
>
>At 21:58 5/29/2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>>A laptop sound card would be a perfect tool to use to log knock. Could
>>any of the geeks on the list write a software for it?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 00:38:27 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> Yes aftermarket Extreme XBC running about 18psi

18 psi is generally too high on pump gas unless you have water injection or
alcohol injection.  Try 15 psi.  If that's better, then stick with the boost
there.  You are probably getting severe knock at 18 psi.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 01:59:30 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any experience on upgrading a 1991 Stealth RT T/T with a 2000 Model Mitsubishi 3000 GT twinturbo engine ?

Transmission Will bolt up fine.  The ECU's are different, in that
earlier model years will be looking for Cam angle sensor input, whereas
later model ECU's will be looking for acrank angle sensor...  Not sure
on the electrical or signal difference between the two....

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:47 AM
To: Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st
Cc: cody; 'Primus Motor AS'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any experience on upgrading a 1991 Stealth RT T/T
with a 2000 Model Mitsubishi 3000 GT twinturbo engine ?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of Primus Motor AS
> I am a norwegian car dealer located in Oslo, Norway.---snip---
> My customer has just been offered to buy a 2000 Model (produced 19.
April
1999) twin turbo Engine (320 HP) from a Mitsubishi 3000 GT, VIN #
MJZ16AXY000170) originally delivered with a 6 speed manual transmission.
> The engine comes without the transmission. Will this engine fit into
the
1991 Model, with no modification to the electrical system, engine
computer,
etc. (i.e. will all the electrical connectors etc. be the same ?) Can
the 5
speed transmission in the 1991 Model be mounted directly onto the engine
?
Do you forsee any other problems that he might get in doing such a
upgrade ?
> Thank you very much for your assistance.
> Best regards,
> Roger L. Skoglund
- ----------------------->
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'Primus Motor AS'" <info@primusmotor.no>;
<Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
> It can be done, however at great extents.  The main electrical
difference
between the two is the '91 car will have a Cam Angle Sensor, whereas the
later model will have a Crank Angle Sensor.  Other than that, there are
very
few differences that would have an effect on
 swapping the engines.  The way to circumvent this would be to install
the
Cam angle sensor on the rear head of the later model engine, and all
that
would be associated with it (I am not for sure, as I have never done
that).
I suppose there are other ways around it, although I am not 100%
sure....
> -Cody
- ----------------------->
But will a 2nd gen engine bolt up to a 1st gen tranny with no problems?
What about OBD issues?  And are the ECUs compatible?
- --Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:20:25 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S with LabJack

At 00:50 30.05.2002 -0400, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>He-he! I AM GOING TO LOG KNOCK.

Some of us did already :)

>I can convert a .wav sound file into plain ASCII text with the GoldWave
>software. The sampling rate of 96 kHz is not a problem for the sound card
>and knock has a frequency in the 10K - 20K Hz range.

Knock glitch is running from 7.5khz down to 5.5khz with lowering amplitude
and sampling is indeed no problem. Hopefully the amplifier for the
microphone input is not doing any bad to the signal. I found different
signals with the older compared to the newer notebook. Just try to find
out. The data from Bill is what came close to my data I once analyzed (got
lost at the HD crash of the old notebook)

>  Stereo means that two channel logging is possible, knock and crank
> position or whatever I want, maybe boost. I need to use voltage dividers
> on both channels to reduce voltage to the millivolt level that the sound
> card can handle. Yahoo-oo!

Nono, just concentrate on the bandpass for knocksensing and synchronize it
with the rpm (or ignition) to be able to get a number that is valid.
Otherwise, you're logging false knock. The other stuff can be logged with
the analog/digital data capturing easily.

A bandpass filter can be calculated and implemented pretty easily. If you
have an ASCII file and can properly identify knock, then a program can be
written. But believe me, it's not that easy at its sounds as you don't have
any reference. Ypou must indeed run into hesitation and heavy knock to find
the area to be checked or you have another datalogger where the time stamp
is the reference that can be used for knock identifying. I have been there
about 1.5 years ago and just runned out of time for doign more and since I
have the datalogger I had no need to do more.

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:26:51 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

At 22:01 29.05.2002 -0400, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>You can use a simple oscilloscope to verify if the ITC works. I will try
>it when I get a chance.

I do not often carry an oscilloscope in the car and there is no doubt the
ITC will work for sure ! But a Datalogger is only recording the timing it
sets and not what reaches the ignition. If you set a device in between the
ECU and the ignition module the data logged is wrong then. Of course you
can use two digital inputs (optocoupling needed on all digital inputs
please), one before and one after the ITC to correct the logged timing
advance. Big project ahaead ;-) I've already been there but simply have no
time anymore for more development.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:26:51 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

At 22:01 29.05.2002 -0400, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>You can use a simple oscilloscope to verify if the ITC works. I will try
>it when I get a chance.

I do not often carry an oscilloscope in the car and there is no doubt the
ITC will work for sure ! But a Datalogger is only recording the timing it
sets and not what reaches the ignition. If you set a device in between the
ECU and the ignition module the data logged is wrong then. Of course you
can use two digital inputs (optocoupling needed on all digital inputs
please), one before and one after the ITC to correct the logged timing
advance. Big project ahaead ;-) I've already been there but simply have no
time anymore for more development.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 04:35:04 EDT
From: Keisuke6G72@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Pictures of Wheels and Tires

- --part1_164.e6f70f9.2a273e38_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey guys , finally got my pics of the wheels and tires posted on a friends
website.  Only one wheel has a chip in it which is detailed in the second
pic.

<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000287.JPG">http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000287.JPG</A>
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG">http://www.geocities.com/spawn1882/IM000289.JPG </A> 

Im looking for $200 for all 4 tires and wheels.  If interested still write me
back. 

Scott

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:35:26 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

At 21:48 29.05.2002 -0400, Bill vp wrote:
>Are you saying that if you use the ITC, then you cannot see the retarding on
>the pocketlogger (for all cars)?  So the pocketlogger see basically what the
>value is before the retarding --- what the ECM is seeing I presume, which is
>to prevent the ECM from attempting to advance the timing back to what it
>feels is correct??

Hmm, wait, I guess I was wrong !

I just reworked the manual and recognized that the ITC also changes the
INPUT signals (crank and cam angle) and not the output of the ECU !!
Therefore the logged data for timing should be correct (for the
Pocketlogger only of course, the TMO data is off) like it is for the fuel
stuff changed by an AFC or so.

Sorry for the confusing.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 07:13:58 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

Wht would be the difference between the pocket logger and the TMO???
Don't they both read info straight from the ECU???

Also, change will still not be displayed in the ECU I believe...  for
instance, if the ECU is retarding timing 15 degrees due to appropriate
knock/whatever reason it has (taken from airflow/knock sums I would
assume), and you change the data given to it, IE the crank angle sensor
input, it is still going to retard timing the same amount as it had
before, only it will be in addition to the degree of which the ITC is
set at.  You still see the same degree of timing advance/retard in the
ECU.

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 3:35 AM
To: Bill vp
Cc: team3/S
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

At 21:48 29.05.2002 -0400, Bill vp wrote:
>Are you saying that if you use the ITC, then you cannot see the
retarding on
>the pocketlogger (for all cars)?  So the pocketlogger see basically
what the
>value is before the retarding --- what the ECM is seeing I presume,
which is
>to prevent the ECM from attempting to advance the timing back to what
it
>feels is correct??

Hmm, wait, I guess I was wrong !

I just reworked the manual and recognized that the ITC also changes the
INPUT signals (crank and cam angle) and not the output of the ECU !!
Therefore the logged data for timing should be correct (for the
Pocketlogger only of course, the TMO data is off) like it is for the
fuel
stuff changed by an AFC or so.

Sorry for the confusing.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 14:31:49 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?

At 07:13 30.05.2002 -0500, cody wrote:
>Wht would be the difference between the pocket logger and the TMO???
>Don't they both read info straight from the ECU???

The Pocketlogger seems to have a correction for the 6 cyl engines while the
TMO is made for the 4 cyl DSMs.

>Also, change will still not be displayed in the ECU I believe...  for
>instance, if the ECU is retarding timing 15 degrees due to appropriate
>knock/whatever reason it has (taken from airflow/knock sums I would
>assume), and you change the data given to it, IE the crank angle sensor
>input, it is still going to retard timing the same amount as it had
>before, only it will be in addition to the degree of which the ITC is
>set at.  You still see the same degree of timing advance/retard in the
>ECU.

You got the point and you're absolutely correct :) The ECU is always
"thinking" it gets real information from the cam and crank sensor. So if it
retards the timing by 15 degrees it fires the sparks later than with 0. Now
if the ITC changes the signals comming from the sensors like 1 degree
retard, this means that the ECU receives the sensor signals 1 degree later
than the original signal. This with the retard of 15 degree results in 16
degrees.

As the ITC is rpm related this timing change is set for the different rpm
areas. Therefore, if one sets 0 at 4000 and -4 at 5000, the additional
retard at 4500 is 2 degrees. The timing on the Pocketlogger may report 24
degrees advance timing but the real output will be 22 degrees as the input
signal has been changed by the ITC and this is the reference for the ECU.

As mentioned, when the air signal is changed this is visible in the
datastream of the loggers. But the timing is what the ECU is setting, i.e.
the output signal. Therefore the signal for the ignition module is 24
degrees advanced for the output but the reference given is already 2
degrees behind what results in a real 22 degree advanced timing.

... I guess I also see clearer now ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:03:54 -0400
From: romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: RE: Re: Team3S: Turbo Porting & Cliping?]

Thanks for the advice,

Thats exactly what I thought, turbo will not be balanced after it is cliped unless TEC does it in the shop. Is that a correct statement? They will balance them after they are cliped?

But my original question is:
What does Cliping do to the CFM and what does Porting do to the CFM?
If the 15G Turbos are rated at 405 CFM based on the Jeff's Website Will they be about 425 CFM after Porting and Cliping?

Can someone explain the process and can Porting be done your self?

Thank you.

Roman G.
94 VR-4

"John Paul Dauber" <jpdauber@earthlink.net> wrote:

>Roman,
> You can't really do either. I would suggest you take some time and learn
>a bit more about the car you are attempting to build. I am not attempting to
>demean you but I don't think you know enough to be doing this. When you clip
>a turbo you actually clipping the wheel...even if you could clip it you
>would have to rebalance the turbo. Also...nobody reaally wants old turbo
>cores. You might be able to get $150 for them. The $600 core charge is
>really only there to ensure that you return your cores. It is really
>difficult to manufacture turbos when you don't get your cores back. If it
>was easy to rebuild them into 13Gs and sell them....why is it that only
>Dynamic does it? Do you really think you can do it cheaper than they can?
>
>JP

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:15:37 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any experience on upgrading a 1991 Stealth RT T/T with a 2000 Model Mitsubishi 3000 GT twinturbo engine ?

> Transmission Will bolt up fine.  The ECU's are different, in that
> earlier model years will be looking for Cam angle sensor input, whereas
> later model ECU's will be looking for acrank angle sensor...  Not sure
> on the electrical or signal difference between the two....

My '95 uses both a crank angle sensor and a cam angle sensor.  I think most
of the 2nd generation cars should be like that, but not sure.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 11:35:31 -0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

Will try it. I do run only 94Octane
How can you tell if your getting extreme knock? I can't hear anything nasty.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Thu 30/05/2002 1:38 AM
To: Ben M. Jones; team3s@team3s.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> Yes aftermarket Extreme XBC running about 18psi

18 psi is generally too high on pump gas unless you have water injection or
alcohol injection.  Try 15 psi.  If that's better, then stick with the boost
there.  You are probably getting severe knock at 18 psi.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:47:49 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> Will try it. I do run only 94Octane
> How can you tell if your getting extreme knock? I can't hear anything
nasty.

Missing, backfiring, hesitation...  All potential signs of serious knock.
Hopefully you didn't crack any pistons in the process.  It is unfortunately
very easy to do on these cars.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:40:45 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Drag (long)

Hi guys,

How do I diagnose excessive clutch drag when the clutch is in the disengaged
position, and if present, how do I correct it?

I bought a new (to me) VR-4 last week and am in the process of finding any
quirks with the car.  In general, the transmission feels great - synchros
seem fine and there are no leaks anywhere in the drivetrain.  Sometimes the
shifter feels a little notchy, as most VR-4s I've driven do, especially when
cold. 

However, every once in a while it seems a little harder to get into gear,
mainly on upshifts and when shifting into 1st or reverse when stopped.  I
always double-clutch and rev-match when downshifting, and the shifter glides
into position with little effort upon downshifting.

I was thinking that maybe the shifter linkage just needed to be adjusted,
and I was going to look at that this weekend.

Last night when I was parking, though, I pulled the car into my garage,
which has a very slight backward slope.  Meaning that if I put the car in
neutral with no brakes, it will slowly roll backwards, unless it's been
sitting for a while and the brake pads are a little stuck to the rotors.
After pulling the car all the way in, I depressed the clutch and pulled on
the gear shift to get it out of 1st.  It wouldn't go.  Tried with a little
more effort... no go.  Then, with the clutch on the floor and the tranny in
1st, I let off the brakes.  The car didn't roll backwards.  But it didn't
roll forward, either.  Clutch still on the floor, and I tried one more time
to get it out of 1st, and this time it popped out when I pulled the gear
shift toward neutral.  Then I let out the clutch like normal and just for
grins, I let go of the brakes.  The car immediately started slowly rolling
backwards.

Thus, based on the fact that the tranny was very hard to get out of first
and that the car didn't roll backwards when the clutch was fully depressed,
I'm guessing that the clutch wasn't fully disengaged.  The thing that
confuses me is that this is intermittent...  if the clutch were out of
adjustment, wouldn't it happen all the time?

Other than the above occasional symptoms (clutch drag?), everything feels
fine.  The engagement point of the clutch seems ok, pedal pressure seems ok,
it chatters a tiny bit when cold, but is great when warm.

Do I just need to adjust something?  If so, what?  I know how to adjust the
clutch pedal height, but is there something else I need to adjust (anything
at the slave cylinder)?  I'll get my manuals out and look around when I get
home from work...

Thanks,
- --Erik

'95 Black on White VR-4 (parts)
'95 White on Black VR-4 (whee!) 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 09:55:03 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Drag (long)

I had a little clutch drag with my car when I first bought it.  It didn't
show up all the time.  Just once in a while the clutch would not fully
disengage so the car did not want to shift into or out of gear.  When I
pulled the cap off of my clutch resevor, I saw that the fluid was so dirty
that it was black.  I emtied the resevor, cleaned it out with a lint free
cloth (it looked like it had 10 years of dirt and gunk in it), replaced all
the clutch fluid and bled the system thoroughly.  The problem was fixed
after that.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:31:16 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stereo questions

>My reference point though is higher end Alpine
>head units and amps so need to know what upgrades will be worth it.

Alpine is too expensive for what you get, if you want top of the line and you're going to spend serious money,  look at Eclipse head units.

>Questions:
>Past experience with quality of factory unit amps
>ranges from disastrous to pretty darn good. Any comments?

Stock sucks.

>How about the quality of factory speakers?

Not too shabby, but again look to upgrading to aftermarket speakers.

>Good replacements out there?

Infinity kappa 6.5's is what I have, they are great.  Although I've only installed these speakers in the front doors, and the rear stock speakers complement them pretty well.  It's really up to you on how much you want to spend and how much time you want to put into it.  I decided not to upgrade the rear speakers since mine requires removing about the entire back seat/pannels and I didn't feel like doing all of that at the time.

>I seem to have a pair of rear facing units firing backwards behind the rear seat. is this stock?

No, I am pretty sure that the car comes with 4 speakers only(2 in front doors, and 2 by back headrests).


You have a convertible, all the more reason to show off a great sound system.

>Andre
>92 3000GT SL convertible

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:42:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stereo questions

Depends on your point of view.  Alpine is relatively affordable, and the
quality cant be questioned..its just good stuff.

You shouldnt enforce your views is cost/quality on others, as others may
have a different goal that you.

A # of people here have been able to experience the Jeep, very non-flashy,
but quality and "effect" you cant find in other vendors.

IMHO, YMMV..etc.

On Thu, 30 May 2002, Erik Petterson wrote:

> >My reference point though is higher end Alpine
> >head units and amps so need to know what upgrades will be worth it.
>
> Alpine is too expensive for what you get, if you want top of the line and you're going to spend serious money,  look at Eclipse head units.
>
> >Questions:
> >Past experience with quality of factory unit amps
> >ranges from disastrous to pretty darn good. Any comments?
>
> Stock sucks.
>
> >How about the quality of factory speakers?
>
> Not too shabby, but again look to upgrading to aftermarket speakers.
>
> >Good replacements out there?
>
> Infinity kappa 6.5's is what I have, they are great.  Although I've only installed these speakers in the front doors, and the rear stock speakers complement them pretty well.  It's really up to you on how much you want to spend and how much time you want to put into it.  I decided not to upgrade the rear speakers since mine requires removing about the entire back seat/pannels and I didn't feel like doing all of that at the time.
>
> >I seem to have a pair of rear facing units firing backwards behind the rear seat. is this stock?
>
> No, I am pretty sure that the car comes with 4 speakers only(2 in front doors, and 2 by back headrests).
>
>
> You have a convertible, all the more reason to show off a great sound system.
>
> >Andre
> >92 3000GT SL convertible

- ---
Geoff Mohler
Lots of cars..and race them all.  Dont you?

Got Brakes?   I've got savings!
Porterfield parts catalog online now at http://www.speedtoys.com
- ---

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 10:38:23 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

S#!t. I was assuming that my backfiring was because of spark blowout.
I've pegged at about 1.1 bar on stock fuel system and a hotwired fuel
pump and it does backfire sometimes, but I'm running stock spark gap
still (.042 right?) because I was waiting for my ignition and rest of my
fuel system to dig into there. So at that kind of boost level is it more
likely spark blowout or severe knock???

I need some help here because I'm going to the strip on Monday and need
all the advice I can get! Should I run the car dry and put in some 104
or 110 for my day at the track?????

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Matt Jannusch
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:48 AM
To: Ben M. Jones; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> Will try it. I do run only 94Octane
> How can you tell if your getting extreme knock? I can't hear anything
nasty.

Missing, backfiring, hesitation...  All potential signs of serious
knock. Hopefully you didn't crack any pistons in the process.  It is
unfortunately very easy to do on these cars.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 12:57:46 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Logging a '95 3S - ghost in the machine

> S#!t. I was assuming that my backfiring was because of spark blowout.
> I've pegged at about 1.1 bar on stock fuel system and a hotwired fuel
> pump and it does backfire sometimes, but I'm running stock spark gap
> still (.042 right?) because I was waiting for my ignition and rest of my
> fuel system to dig into there. So at that kind of boost level is it more
> likely spark blowout or severe knock???

It could be spark blowout if you are still running the stock plug gaps at 1
bar of boost.  The stock fuel pump kinda sucks, even when hotwired.  I'd
upgrade that ASAP with a Supra pump.  It could be a combination of knock and
blowout.  1.1 bar is a little risky on the stock fuel setup and no
datalogging.  It could be fine, or it could be giving you lots of knock.  No
way to know for sure, unfortunately on the 1994-1995 models unless you have
something that'll log timing advance for you.

When you "hotwired" the fuel pump, did you just jumper the fuel pump relay
to not flow through the resistor at all, or did you run heavy gauge wire all
the way back to the pump from the battery and hook up a relay at the pump to
turn it on?  If you did it the first way, that really doesn't help much.
The second way is much more beneficial in making the pump flow better.

> I need some help here because I'm going to the strip on Monday and need
> all the advice I can get! Should I run the car dry and put in some 104
> or 110 for my day at the track?????

If your car is having some problems, I wouldn't recommend going to the
dragstrip.  Anything that's a minor problem on the street is going to turn
into a very serious problem in a hurry at the strip.  If you do decide to go
to the strip, higher octane fuel will solve the problem if it actually is
knock/detonation that you are running into.  104 octane should be sufficient
for up to 1.3 bar at least.  YMMV.

Get your plugs gapped down to .030-032" before you go to the dragstrip for
sure.

The easy way to get any low octane fuel out of your tank for putting in race
fuel is to take the return line hose off the fuel pressure regulator, run a
piece of hose from the FPR to an empty gas can and then run a jumper wire
between the fuel pump test connector by the battery (black connector between
battery and firewall) to the positive terminal on the battery and pump the
fuel out that way.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 12:23:09 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stereo questions

I'll toss in my coin here as I just replaced dash and door speakers plus
added an Infinity BassLink 200 watt self powered subwoofer several weeks
ago.

I THINK the changer in our VR-4s is a Pioneer. You would have to look on the
back panel of the head unit to see if there is a DIN connection for the
changer. Most likely, there isn't and you would be best off going with a
changer that does RF modulation.

There are 6 plugs on the back of my head unit. One for the telescoping
antenna, one for the rear window antenna (comprising the "Diversity System"
for getting best possible RF reception), one for the main wiring harness,
one for the anti-theft, and 2 DIN connectors, one going to the CD changer
and one going to the amp.

I had a 10 pack changer in a Ford F150 that used this hookup and it was
great. I've seen 6 pack CD changers with this RF modulator for under $90.

Although the factory amp in my car isn't exactly what I would call
fantastic, it certainly works just fine. I think it is 210 watts. My problem
was that my dash speakers were shot. After finding several candidates to
replace them with, I settled on the JBL GTO220, which is a 2.5" cone with a
1" titanium tweeter. So that gives me two way in the dash and covers from
300-21Khz. Then I discovered that my left side door speaker wasn't pumping
out hardly any sound. So after looking long and hard at the Infinity Kappa
63.2, 63.3 and all their other recent permutations, I decided on going with
a straight 6.5" midrange speaker since I already had the high end covered
with the dash speakers. Kicker R6c is their 6.5" midrange that has a cone in
the middle which unscrews so that you could screw a tweeter in to the center
to have a coax speaker. Kicker R6c to each door. One weird thing that I
notice is that the left door speaker puts out more volume at a given level
than does the right side. Rear 6x9 speakers were still kicking so I left
them for now, although I did tear them completely out to photograph and
measure. One thing that I have done that is really sweet is to add a bunch
of Roadkill (like DynaMatt) dampening material to the bare metal sections of
the rear strut towers, inside the 6x9 speaker boxes, on the floor behind the
front seats, under the carpet, covered the metal under the spare tire,
covered the rear deck under where I installed the BassLink and behind the
door speakers on the outer panel of the doors. Cuts down on road noise by a
pretty decent margin.1

Although the BassLink has inputs for both RCA and line-level, I spliced a
line output converter onto the wiring harness at the amp so that I could
fine tune the level to the BassLink and use RCA patch cords for the run to
the rear. The BassLink turns the entire rear end of the VR-4 into a huge
speaker box. I have the controls set down to almost a minimum and it is
still thumpin' loud...

Were there some 3000GT with an 8 speaker system? Yours is a convertible with
4 speakers?

As far as replacing the whole kit and caboodle, it is pretty
straightforward. After pulling the trim ring from the head unit, 4 screws
come out and you pull the head unit. If I was going to replace that much,
I'd rewire with larger gauge speaker wire too.

on 5/29/02 1:00 PM, Andre Cerri at cerri@intersystems.com scribbled:

> New to the list and 3000GTs so 'scuse the dumb questions or if these have
> been posted before....email me direct if appropriate.
>
> 92 3000GT SL.
> Comes with a complex stereo with tape, and a CD jack. Stereo appears to be a
> bunch of preset modes and equaliser settings. Doesn't sound too bad
> considering it's age and FM. My reference point though is higher end Alpine
> head units and amps so need to know what upgrades will be worth it.

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #855
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