Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, May 28
2002 Volume 01 : Number
853
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 27 May 2002 11:57:23 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
> When I got back from town I
saw the front valve cover off and the roller
> (rocker arm) from the #1
cylinder's front exhaust valve was not where it
> should be. The
rocker arm (the part that the cam pushes down against
> the valve spring)
was off and lying next to the spring. That was an
> interesting
chore getting it back on without the special tool shown in
> the
manual. Those valve springs are pretty stiff.
>
> Upon
removing the front three spark plugs their electrodes were touching
> the
ceramic tip of themselves. There was no shiny part so the piston
>
did not push them against the spark plug (meaning timing was off or a
>
timing belt slipped teeth) but the timing could not be advanced enough
>
(I think max is about 50 degrees BTDC on a first gen) that detonation
>
occurred as well as probably dieseling.
The rocker popping off and
electrodes being crushed were probably both the
result of the ringlands
breaking off the pistons from detonation.
> It was fine under 1 bar of
boost but when the boost was pushed to 1.5
> bar then we saw all these
problems. That's what happens on 720 cc
> injectors, 368 turbos, and
a powerful engine on stock internals with too
> much boost. I made
sure it was never running close to stoich but always
> on the rich side
under WOT. Idle was horrible at first but the second
> day it was
able to idle without intervention.
1.5 bar on what kind of race
fuel? If not race fuel, then that was probably
the cause of the piston
failures. You need to be to at least .88v to .92v
O2 readings to be
rich enough to prevent detonation even at 15 psi,
perferably even a little
higher. Higher boost needs more richness due to
higher combustion
temperatures. Water/alcohol injection gets you a little
more overhead
before detonation - but not a whole lot (3-5 psi more
boost
safely).
> A fix is on the way with rods, pistons, etc. and I
hope to have some
> sort of logger by then to help but we'll see. It
was finally fun to
> pass that Z06 and Porsche 993 on the straights for a
change. Even the
> Viper gave us a point by. I shall never
forget that image.
It'll probably need the heads repaired also. The
pistons like to slam the
chunks of the ring lands into the decks of the
heads, causing lots of nice
divots in the head. Those need to be
repaired if you don't want hot spots
to cause detonation in the future.
Also, there's probably a bent valve or
two or three for good
measure.
On mine even though it only broke pistons on the rear bank, the
pieces
bounced through the open intake valves and were sucked into the front
bank.
Very nice.
It doesn't sound good...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 14:22:25
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
Matt -- Good diagnosis. I am
not doing the head repair but the first
call from his mechanic was that
pistons were melted which goes hand in
hand with all sorts of other
trouble. This is the first gen block and I
had forgotten what change
was made to the second gen (aluminum sleeve in
an iron block or things like
that). The mechanic will build it back
nicely I'm sure.
Race gas
I did not mention. It was 110 octane. This is not meant to be
a
ask for solutions as things are already planned but was mentioning
what
happened. Thanks for helping though don't strain too much as
other
solutions are on the way. I do like hearing other reasons like
the
ringlands breaking off ... hadn't thought of that yet.
It's just
that I know the car will support about 21 psi but it is
running at just 7 psi
now and tuning it farther is hard. One little
tweak in the fuel at idle
is a lot with the upgraded fuel pump, fuel
rail, injectors, IC pipes,
etc. I know it needs a dyno tuning run so
maybe that should be next
when the engine gets rebuilt.
Just lucky that this is his other track car
so track time is not
limited.
Anyone interested in non-3/S pictures
from the Ferrari International
Meet at the California Speedway last week feel
free to check out the
links below.
Track day:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/whubbell/FCA-LA_05-22/Track/Ferrari
Concours:
www.team3s.com/~dschilberg/whubbell/FCA-LA_05-22/Concours/-
--Flash!
www.schilberg.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:57
The rocker popping off and
electrodes being crushed were probably both
the
result of the ringlands
breaking off the pistons from detonation.
1.5 bar on what kind of race
fuel? If not race fuel, then that was
probably
the cause of the
piston failures. You need to be to at least .88v to
.92v
O2 readings
to be rich enough to prevent detonation even at 15 psi,
perferably even a
little higher. Higher boost needs more richness due
to
higher
combustion temperatures. Water/alcohol injection gets you
a
little
more overhead before detonation - but not a whole lot (3-5 psi
more
boost
safely).
It'll probably need the heads repaired
also. The pistons like to slam
the
chunks of the ring lands into the
decks of the heads, causing lots of
nice
divots in the head. Those
need to be repaired if you don't want hot
spots
to cause detonation in the
future. Also, there's probably a bent valve
or
two or three for good
measure.
On mine even though it only broke pistons on the rear bank, the
pieces
bounced through the open intake valves and were sucked into the
front
bank.
Very nice.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:53:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gearbox & Transaxle problems
Airtight..yes, to a
point. When it gets hot it'll allow air out to keep
from blowing seals
as the air expands, but it'll seal BETTER to prevent
air from coming
in..hence the slight vacum.
Cant answer the grinding/etc, but yes, you
seem to have overfilled it a
little.
On Mon, 27 May 2002, H. Le Hir
wrote:
> Hi, I got the following problems, and I'm quite
puzzled.
>
> Background
> Car is a 1992 Stealth RT/TT,
150.000 km (about 90.000 miles)
> In good general condition.
> Last
transmission fluid change was done at the 100.000 / 90.00mi
>
>
Problem
>
> It became recently harder & harder to shift from
2dn to 3rd, and I could
> hear "low grinding" noises from the gearbox
area.
>
> The car was cold (night outside)
> I put my stealth
on ramps under the front weels.
> I crawled under it.
>
> I
opened the transaxle refill plug.
> Could not feel any fluid in there,
medium to strong "rotten fish" smell.
>
> Opened the gearbox refill
plug.
>
> Surprise number 1 : The gearbox was under vacuum. When I
started to open the
> refill plug, I could hear a hissing sound....this
sound became louder &
> louder as I kept opening the plug. This sound
lasted about 20 secs until I
> completely removed the plug.
>
> I could feel some fluid.
>
> Actions
>
> I
added 12 FlOz of transmission fluid in the transaxle (with some teflon
>
additives in there...but it's not the discussion point here)
> I added 8
FlOz in the gearbox (same as above)
>
> Re-plug everything, went
for a test drive.
>
> After a couple hundred meters, I had the
strange feeling that the rear tires
> were on somethinig very
slippery...but this did not last very long.
>
> Kept driving, went
back home.
> Upon stoppinig, I smelled burning oil, and sure, the
undercarriage of the
> car was sprayed with hot transmission
oil...damm.
>
> I put the car on the ramps, I could NOT locate any
leak anywhere (after I
> cleaned the area).
>
> I drained
about 1flOz of the transaxle case.
> Went for a test drive, including some
highway drive...no problem, no further
> leak that I could see.
>
> Left the car sitting overnight....no oil drops on the floor.
>
> Next day, washed the undercarriage of the stealth (to have it
clean)
>
> Went driving for about 100 km (60 miles), on tristy
road, and highway.
>
> No further leak that I could locate, no
special noise.
>
> The gearbox shifts better than before, and I do
not have any grinding noises
> anymore.
>
> So....
>
> questions.
>
> - Is it normal that the gearbox is airtight
?
> - It there any possiblity that I over-filled the transaxle ?
> -
Given that the gearbox seems to be airtight....it's NOT possible to have
>
an
> - Did I damegeg something ?
> - Is that normal that the Stealth
is "using/burning/drinking" that much
> trans oil in the gearbox /
transaxle ?
>
> Any comments ?
>
> TIA, best
>
> Henri
>
> PS: Please reply directly to me, as I'm on the
digest, and I do NOT get all
> of them
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 14:50:46
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
well, i'm torn between selling my car with
a broken tranny or just
rebuilding the tranny. I doubt I have the time to do
it that's why i want to
sell but it's gonna be hard unless I practically give
it away. My brother
swears it's the throwout bearing making that rattling
noise. I'm like, well
you broke it, you fix it. too bad the poor sucker just
got laid off and has
no money, lol. Will the TOB make any noise when the
clutch is NOT pressed
in? Though the noise is continous now, it used to go
away when the clutch
was pressed in. One mechanic said it was definitely the
throwout bearing.
Another one said he's full of it and just wants the job
since he knows it
will be much more than the TOB. He says that the TOB is not
even spinning
when the clutch is out and that the only thing spinning with
the clutch out
and in neutral is the input shaft, so therefore the noise HAS
to be a
bearing on the input shaft. Who's right, or are they both full of
it?
Anybody know what parts I would need to get from CRS to have a rebuild
done
and how much? Anybody done a complete rebuild using CRS parts who can
point
me in the right direction? The gears shift fine, there's fluid leaking
from
the passenger side driveshaft connection, 1st to 2nd is a little
rough
(synchros i'm guessing), and there's slight play on the propeller
shaft.
Any info would be much appreciated as I'd rather fix it then sell it
for it
real cheap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:09:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
This looks lime my
mistake..I was reading S-AFC..and well, I have an
S-AFC, and it goes
50%.
On Mon, 27 May 2002, Dave and Becky Trent wrote:
> The AFC
range is plus or minus 30. 50% of 30=15.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
> Cc:
"Team3s" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 2:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi
SAFC run 550cc injectors?
>
>
> > You sure, I thought
that would be 25%.
> >
> > On Sun, 26 May 2002, Dave and
Becky Trent wrote:
> >
> > > Sorry, that would be 50% of
the available adjustment on the AFC. If I
> > > recall, that
equates to ~15% of the actual MAF signal.
> > >
> > >
Regards,
> > > DaveT/92TT
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:09:20
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: engine smoke
Need ideas. I put a rebuilt motor in I purchased
from M&S recycling. It has
smoked from start up. I've had leak down tests
done on it suggested by Brian
from GT-PRO. Also he told me to pull the
exhaust and try and duplicate same
conditions as when smoke occurs to see if
a turbo is leaking. So far I've
had no luck in figuring out the cause of the
smoke. It only happens when I
decelerate and start to accelerate. Leak down
test showed 4 to 6 on leakage
into the crankcase.
Any ideas short of
pulling heads to check valve stems? 2000 mile on engine
now, but it runs
great. Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:54:09
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine smoke
What color is the smoke? Black is
oil. White is too much fuel.
What do your spark plugs look
like? Do they all look the same? Are there
anything unusual about
one or two of them like high carbon build up?
Pull off your Y pipe and
check it for oil. If there is a lot of oil then
check your IC pipes to
figure out which turbo is doing it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:27:39
-0400
From: "Laurie Danehy" <
1LAURIE_1@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: starting & running problems
I have a 1991 Stealth ES. It has
120,000 miles. It just died on me. But
before it shut off the check engine
light came on for five seconds, then my
car died. And would not start again.
It is at the dealers right now. They
don't actually know what is wrong. They
are saying that the computer went.
But they are not done diagnosing it. And
another thing I could not get the
car started again. But this morning the
dealership started it right up, and
it keeps on dying. Has anyone had this
problem with your car?
HELP,
Laurie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 18:52:48
-0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Team3S: 99 Nose
conversion...
I know this is probably off-topic...
but...
I'm seriously thinking about doing a '99 front
end conversion on my '96
VR4. I have a couple of questions maybe
someone on the list may be able to
answer. I'm also going to change
over to a '97 three piece spoiler. What's
the best way to deactivate
the active aero features? Also... If I pull off
the active aero in the
front... is there a replacement cover I should use in
its place? What
does a '99 usually have in that location?
Thanx a lot for any
help...
- -G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:19:08
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 99 Nose conversion...
I know there are at least two on the list
with 99 front end conversions
so they will chime in. As far as the two
I have seen without Active
Aero it is just a hole underneath the nose.
I imagine the 99 front end
will be complete with an undertray cover here
though. Maybe this is
shown in CAPS but a picture underneath someone's
99 would show
everything to you I bet.
You will also save a good bit
of weight removing the Active Aero
components.
However, anyone
interested in the front active aero motor actuator for
their car well I have
one sitting here from a first gen.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gil Gomes
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 18:53
I
know this is probably off-topic... but...
I'm
seriously thinking about doing a '99 front end conversion on
my
'96
VR4. I have a couple of questions maybe someone on the list
may be able
to
answer. I'm also going to change over to a '97 three
piece spoiler.
What's
the best way to deactivate the active aero
features? Also... If I pull
off
the active aero in the front... is
there a replacement cover I should
use in
its place? What does a '99
usually have in that location?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:08:24
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
starting & running problems
Laurie-
check your fuel pressure
(are you getting any?)
check your spark (how old are those plugs and
wires?)
try firing it up w/starting fluid
my stealth did the exact
same thing. turns out a fuel line rusted and fuel
pressure was insufficient.
it sounds to me like you're having a similar
problem. when you crank, the
fuel pressure goes up since it's not yet being
burned, but as soon as the
motor turns over the fuel starts combusting (of
course!), and since there's a
leak, the fuel gets combusts too fast and the
minimal fuel pressure is not
sufficient enough for the car to run stable.
Riyan
1993 stealth
rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htmOn
Monday, May 27, 2002 3:28 PM Laurie wrote:
-
----------------------cut------------------------------->
I have a 1991
Stealth ES. It has 120,000 miles. It just died on me. But
before it shut off
the check engine light came on for five seconds, then my
car died.
-
--------------------------cut-------------------------->
But this morning
the dealership started it right up, and [keeps dying again]
-
--------------------------cut-------------------------->
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:19:10
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
TOB or broken tranny?
Elpidio-
although it's somewhat foreign
material to me, using common sense, it sounds
like the 2nd mechanic is right.
because pressing down the clutch disengages
the motor from the tranny,
correct? hopefully the other list members will be
able to give more detailed
info.
Riyan
************************
On Monday, May 27,
2002 11:51 AM Rodriguez, Elpidio wrote:
-
-----------snip-------------------------->
will be much more than the TOB.
He says that the TOB is not even spinning
when the clutch is out and that the
only thing spinning with the clutch out
and in neutral is the input shaft, so
therefore the noise HAS to be a
bearing on the input shaft. Who's right, or
are they both full of it?
-
---------------------------------------------->
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 21:29:00
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
I've asked this question before and the
different people say the TOB makes
noise at one point or the other if bad
(either with clutch in or out) .... I
think the final answer was that it
could do either, depending on how bad the
TOB is.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 2:51 PM
To:
'Team3S@team3s.com '
Subject: Team3S:
TOB or broken tranny?
well, i'm torn between selling my car with a broken
tranny or just
rebuilding the tranny. I doubt I have the time to do it that's
why i want to
sell but it's gonna be hard unless I practically give it away.
My brother
swears it's the throwout bearing making that rattling noise. I'm
like, well
you broke it, you fix it. too bad the poor sucker just got laid
off and has
no money, lol. Will the TOB make any noise when the clutch is NOT
pressed
in? Though the noise is continous now, it used to go away when the
clutch
was pressed in. One mechanic said it was definitely the throwout
bearing.
Another one said he's full of it and just wants the job since he
knows it
will be much more than the TOB. He says that the TOB is not even
spinning
when the clutch is out and that the only thing spinning with the
clutch out
and in neutral is the input shaft, so therefore the noise HAS to
be a
bearing on the input shaft. Who's right, or are they both full of
it?
Anybody know what parts I would need to get from CRS to have a rebuild
done
and how much? Anybody done a complete rebuild using CRS parts who can
point
me in the right direction? The gears shift fine, there's fluid leaking
from
the passenger side driveshaft connection, 1st to 2nd is a little
rough
(synchros i'm guessing), and there's slight play on the propeller
shaft.
Any info would be much appreciated as I'd rather fix it then sell it
for it
real cheap.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 19:03:56
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
TOB or broken tranny?
The key is usually whether or not the transmission
makes a noise with the
clutch in [ throw out bearing engaged ] or out. With
the clutch out the input
shaft on the transmission is turning with the
flywheel and any bad tranny
bearings will be making noise. With the clutch in
the input shaft stops
turning and transmission problems will not be
apparent.
Keep in mind that the TOB can make noise also --- with the
clutch out the
bearing is not turning. With the clutch in the TOB is turning
and can make
noise. I'd try to depress the clutch a little, just until the
TOB contacts the
pressure plate and see if the noise changes --- at that
point the input shaft
is still turning and the TOB is also turning, you might
be able to determine
something form this combination eg. a slight change in
noise may mean
the TOB is the
culprit.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To:
"Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Cc:
"team3/S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 27, 2002 6:29 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TOB or broken
tranny?
> I've asked this question before and the different people say
the TOB makes
> noise at one point or the other if bad (either with clutch
in or out) .... I
> think the final answer was that it could do either,
depending on how bad the
> TOB is.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1
> Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 2:51 PM
> To:
'Team3S@team3s.com '
> Subject:
Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
>
>
> well, i'm torn between
selling my car with a broken tranny or just
> rebuilding the tranny. I
doubt I have the time to do it that's why i want to
> sell but it's gonna
be hard unless I practically give it away. My brother
> swears it's the
throwout bearing making that rattling noise. I'm like, well
> you broke
it, you fix it. too bad the poor sucker just got laid off and has
> no
money, lol. Will the TOB make any noise when the clutch is NOT pressed
>
in? Though the noise is continous now, it used to go away when the
clutch
> was pressed in. One mechanic said it was definitely the throwout
bearing.
> Another one said he's full of it and just wants the job since
he knows it
> will be much more than the TOB. He says that the TOB is not
even spinning
> when the clutch is out and that the only thing spinning
with the clutch out
> and in neutral is the input shaft, so therefore the
noise HAS to be a
> bearing on the input shaft. Who's right, or are they
both full of it?
> Anybody know what parts I would need to get from CRS to
have a rebuild done
> and how much? Anybody done a complete rebuild using
CRS parts who can point
> me in the right direction? The gears shift fine,
there's fluid leaking from
> the passenger side driveshaft connection, 1st
to 2nd is a little rough
> (synchros i'm guessing), and there's slight
play on the propeller shaft.
> Any info would be much appreciated as
I'd rather fix it then sell it for it
> real cheap.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:23:55
EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Front
nose change over
I have a 91 Stealth RT non turbo. I would like to switch
it over to a newer
front end stying and use the better fog lights that come
with it. Any
advice?
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:34:04
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
thanks a lot fellas, if I don't find a
buyer for the car the way it is right
now, I'm gonna rebuild the tranny.
Would any competent tranny "expert" be
abel to do the rebuild if I get him
the parts or is our tranny hard to work
on? Also, anybody done a rebuild yet
with the new parts from CRS or am I
better off just calling up Frank at
kormex and ordering a rebuilt one from
him?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:17:54
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
N/A engine power upgrades
Question for the N/A guys
I have a 97 SL
with 50,000 miles. I just put in a K&N cone and intake pipe,
and its a
good start. But my goal is 260 HP. Id appreciate any help u guys
could
tell me in things that might get me there-besides exhaust, because
thats a
different story.
thank you
mike
97 SL
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 22:22:51
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: N/A engine power upgrades
> I have a 97 SL with 50,000 miles.
I just put in a K&N cone and intake
pipe,
> and its a good
start. But my goal is 260 HP. Id appreciate any help u
guys
>
could tell me in things that might get me there-besides exhaust, because
>
thats a different story.
35 HP shot of nitrous?
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:26:14
-0700
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
Go with CRS. I just replaced my 1 and 2
syncro (blocking) rings from crs.
They sell the same ring kormex sells. The
differance, korment sells it for
$125.00, CRS sells it for $15.00. No, I did
not miss a digit. the differance
really is $110.00. We rebuild mine is an
afternoon. YOU can goto
vr4stealth.com for details on how to do the syncro
swap. Also any compitent
tranny shop should be able to do it. If you've never
been a trtans I'd
recoment having help from someon who has if your going to
try.
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
>Also,
anybody done a rebuild yet with the new parts from CRS or am I
> better
off just calling up Frank at kormex and ordering a rebuilt one from
>
him?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:27:41
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: N/A engine power upgrades
The car has an auto tranny, a shot of
NOS woulld rip it apart. I want power
they is there when the bottle is
empty.
- -mike
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 20:59:53
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: N/A engine power upgrades
Try this. Dave Black has an
excellent web page and one of his FAQs
addresses your question.
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp#upgradesnonttDoug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:43:08
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine smoke
> What color is the smoke? Black is
oil. White is too much fuel.
Well that's the first time I've ever
read that black smoke is oil .
It's
fuel.
Steve.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:48:09
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
It sounds exactly what happened to my
car. When you step on the clutch, the
noise goes away and as soon as you
release it, the grinding noise comes back
and the car does not move at
all.
It is the output shaft. You will need a new output shaft and
coupling. The
coupling is a bitch to take off. Even with a press
it is a bitch but do
able.
When my car was picked up by the tow truck,
he said it was the TOB. When
the tranny was taken apart, all the teeth
on the output shaft were gone. I
don't do launches and the car only had
65K on it.
Buy the output shaft from Kormex because his is harder
steal. I paid $500
for the shaft and coupling but not from
Kormex. Kormex did not have the
shaft about 2 years ago. The
labor was a lot. If you can do it yourself
and have a shop take the
coupling out and press a new one in, it will be a
lot cheaper.
My
total bill was around $2,000. That included a new clutch.
I hope
this helps.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Cc:
"'team3/S '" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 27, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TOB or broken
tranny?
> thanks a lot fellas, if I don't find a buyer for the car the
way it is
right
> now, I'm gonna rebuild the tranny. Would any
competent tranny "expert" be
> abel to do the rebuild if I get him the
parts or is our tranny hard to
work
> on? Also, anybody done a rebuild
yet with the new parts from CRS or am I
> better off just calling up Frank
at kormex and ordering a rebuilt one from
> him?
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 23:08:23
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine smoke
> > What color is the smoke? Black
is oil. White is too much fuel.
>
> Well that's the first time
I've ever read that black smoke is oil . It's
> fuel.
I guess
I should have been more clear with my statement. Black exhaust
smoke is
caused by oil being burned with the gasoline. White smoke is
caused by
burning too much gasoline. You can actually tell the difference
from
the smell of the exhaust. White exhaust will smell like gasoline.
Black
exhaust will smell like burnt oil. White exhaust in cold weather
could
also just be water vapor. In that case it will just smell
like
exhaust. I have never seen black smoke caused by anything else
except
burning oil. I have seen carbon shot out the exhaust but that
was a black
powder and not smoke.
That's the first time I ever heard
anyone say that black smoke is caused by
burning fuel. If you count oil
as fuel, I suppose that would be accurate.
I have seen engines flooded with
gasoline for 15 minutes ("smart" people
trying to start a car in negative 50
weather without a block heater). When
the cars finally started the
smoke still came out white. Unless you are
burning oil with the gas,
the emissions from burning gasoline alone will be
either colorless or
white.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:44:40
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine smoke
> I guess I should have been more clear with
my statement. Black exhaust
> smoke is caused by oil being burned
with the gasoline.
No
When the air fuel ratio is too rich, some of
the fuel is not completely
burned, it comes out the exhaust as carbon =
soot = BLACK.
Steve
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 06:43:32
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TOB or broken tranny?
The noise my car is making used to be
very slight and used to go away when
the clutch was pressed in. It is not a
grinding noise, rather a loud
"knocking noise" but the car does move. In
fact, it shifts fine into all the
gears but just makes a horrible knocking
sound that gets louder and louder
as revs pick up. Could this be the same
problem, or going towards that?
<<It sounds exactly what happened
to my car. When you step on the
<<clutch,the
<<noise goes away
and as soon as you release it, the grinding noise comes
<<back and the
car does not move at all.
<<It is the output shaft. You will need
a new output shaft and coupling.
<<When the tranny was taken apart, all
the teeth on the output shaft were
gone.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:38:51
-0400
From: "MB" <
profilevr4@nj.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: engine smoke
Agreed,
Black smoke is the result of a very rich
mixture. This happened to me when I
tried driving my car w/ 550 injectors and
no fuel controller.
Bluish, grey/white is burning oil. White smoke is
usually coolant, there's
also a distinct smell that's kinda sweet when
coolant is being burned.
Michael Bulaon.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 28, 2002 2:44 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine smoke
>
> I guess I should have been more clear with my statement. Black
exhaust
> > smoke is caused by oil being burned with the
gasoline.
>
> No
>
> When the air fuel ratio is too
rich, some of the fuel is not completely
> burned, it comes out the
exhaust as carbon = soot = BLACK.
>
>
Steve
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:55:03
-0400
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@directvinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Hello,
=20
So
far, from the discussion we have had over the last several days
regarding
550cc and 720cc injectors controlled by the APEXI S-AFC, it
seems that the
consensus is that 550cc injectors should be no problem at
about -33% while
the 720cc injectors should be at about -50%. The
reason 720cc injectors
should not be used is mainly because there is no
room for error since -50% is
already the limit of the S-AFC. How about
660cc injectors?
According to my calculations, the S-AFC should be set
to -45%, which gives a
whole 5% margin of error, which to me sounds
reasonable.
=20
Now the
second question, say along with the 660cc injectors came a pair
of 15G
turbos, better fuel pump, and Water/Alki Injection System, could
20PSI be
handled to redline? Or will the 660cc injectors still pose a
bottleneck
even at only 20PSI of boost=85 =20
=20
Thanks in advance for any
comments=85
=20
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT =20
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:44:25
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: engine smoke
> > I guess I should have been more clear with
my statement. Black
> > exhaust smoke is caused by oil being
burned with the gasoline.
>
> No
>
> When the air fuel
ratio is too rich, some of the fuel is not completely
> burned, it comes
out the exhaust as carbon = soot = BLACK.
I'll agree with
Steve here - black sooty smoke in the exhaust is too rich a
fuel
mixture. I have the proof on the floor of my garage as I was tuning
the
PMS with my 550cc injectors last weekend. Lots of nice carbon blown
out
onto the floor lined up with my exhaust tips. ;-)
Oil burns
bluish or gray, depending on how much is burned.
White is usually
coolant.
A quick Google search netted several links similar to the
following:
http://www.baaqmd.gov/pie/smv.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 07:10:31
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine smoke
>
http://www.baaqmd.gov/pie/smv.htmI
can't argue with that. I guess my circle of friends have
been
misdiagnosising problems for a while. Thanks for the
correction.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 07:19:10
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine smoke
My exhaust smells like oil and there is residue
on the exhaust tips. Mike S
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 28, 2002 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine smoke
>
> > What color is the smoke? Black is oil. White is too much
fuel.
> >
> > Well that's the first time I've ever read that
black smoke is oil .
It's
> > fuel.
>
> I guess I should
have been more clear with my statement. Black exhaust
> smoke is
caused by oil being burned with the gasoline. White smoke is
>
caused by burning too much gasoline. You can actually tell the
difference
> from the smell of the exhaust. White exhaust will smell
like gasoline.
> Black exhaust will smell like burnt oil. White
exhaust in cold weather
> could also just be water vapor. In that
case it will just smell like
> exhaust. I have never seen black
smoke caused by anything else except
> burning oil. I have seen
carbon shot out the exhaust but that was a black
> powder and not
smoke.
>
> That's the first time I ever heard anyone say that black
smoke is caused
by
> burning fuel. If you count oil as fuel, I
suppose that would be accurate.
> I have seen engines flooded with
gasoline for 15 minutes ("smart" people
> trying to start a car in
negative 50 weather without a block heater).
When
> the cars finally
started the smoke still came out white. Unless you are
> burning oil
with the gas, the emissions from burning gasoline alone will
be
>
either colorless or white.
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:58:08
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tidbit
Interesting tidbit yesterday on TV:
Motor Trend
magazine tests over the years - Which had the best 0-60mph?
1) 1992 Dodge
Stealth R/T
2) 1976 Porsche 911 turbo
3) 2002 Subaru WRX
4) 1989
Ferrari Testerosa
Results?
#1 - 2002 Subaru WRX - 5.2 sec
0-60
#2 - 1992 Dodge Stealth R/T - 5.8 sec 0-60
#3 - 1976 Porsche 911
Turbo
#4 - Ferrari
Hehe. They had a Corvette C-5 that had $115,000
worth of mods including
turbos etc. that ran a 1.92 sec 0-60mph.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:03:20
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tidbit
I saw it to, except the times for the WRX and Stealth
were closer, 5.6 to
5.7 respectively, not bad for a car that made 10 years
earlier.....
Francis
'96
RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
[mailto:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:58 AM
To:
team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject: Team3S: Tidbit
>>#1 - 2002 Subaru
WRX - 5.2 sec 0-60
>>#2 - 1992 Dodge Stealth R/T - 5.8 sec
0-60
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum
hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:08:59
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tidbit
Thanks for the correction. I was trying to watch and do 2
other things at
the same time. And it is unreal that the Stealth still holds
it's own so
well.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on
5/28/02 9:03 AM, Morice, Francis at
francis.morice@retek.com
scribbled:
> I saw it to, except the times for the WRX and Stealth
were closer, 5.6 to
> 5.7 respectively, not bad for a car that made 10
years earlier.....
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:10:31
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: engine smoke
Folks...
Wow, this is new information.
I've had a dozen "beaters" over the last twenty-five years of driving. Worn out
rings and valves passing oil has always produced blue/white smoke. I've never
seen black smoke from anything other than an over rich gas condition. For anyone
who has an air/fuel controller, try turning up the fuel mix...I will bet you see
black smoke. I have my car set on the rich side and have black spots on the
floor where my muffler dumps down.
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:08 PM
To:
team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine smoke
> > What
color is the smoke? Black is oil. White is too much
fuel.
>
> Well that's the first time I've ever read that black smoke
is oil . It's
> fuel.
I guess I should have been more clear
with my statement. Black exhaust
smoke is caused by oil being burned
with the gasoline. White smoke is
caused by burning too much
gasoline. You can actually tell the difference
from the smell of the
exhaust. White exhaust will smell like gasoline.
Black exhaust will
smell like burnt oil. White exhaust in cold weather
could also just be
water vapor. In that case it will just smell like
exhaust. I have
never seen black smoke caused by anything else except
burning oil. I
have seen carbon shot out the exhaust but that was a black
powder and not
smoke.
That's the first time I ever heard anyone say that black smoke is
caused by
burning fuel. If you count oil as fuel, I suppose that would
be accurate.
I have seen engines flooded with gasoline for 15 minutes
("smart" people
trying to start a car in negative 50 weather without a block
heater). When
the cars finally started the smoke still came out
white. Unless you are
burning oil with the gas, the emissions from
burning gasoline alone will be
either colorless or white.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:53:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Kian Habib <
ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
vr-4 help
I have been looking to buy a '94 or above vr-4 for a
while
and have been having trouble finding them. Where
are the best places to look?
I have seen some on e-bay
but usually they are too far away too look at and
I
don't even know if buying a car from that source is
reliable. Does have
any tips on where to search for
the vr-4?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:02:46
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: vr-4 help
You need to tell us where you are located.
Then members in surrounding
areas can keep there eyes open for
one.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kian Habib"
<
ill1027@yahoo.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: vr-4 help
> I have
been looking to buy a '94 or above vr-4 for a
> while and have been having
trouble finding them. Where
> are the best places to look? I have seen
some on e-bay
> but usually they are too far away too look at and
I
> don't even know if buying a car from that source is
> reliable.
Does have any tips on where to search for
> the vr-4?
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 09:10:15
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Seat cover
I have a front passenger side seat cover out of a 93
vr4, tan color. This is
in perfect condition. I bought it for my Stealth and
it isn't the same
shade. Steath has more of a yellow tint. Anyone interested
contact me. Mike
S
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:13:29
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: vr-4 help
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kian Habib"
<
ill1027@yahoo.com>
> I have
been looking to buy a '94 or above vr-4 for a while and have been
having
trouble finding them. Where are the best places to look? I have seen
some on
e-bay but usually they are too far away too look at and I don't even
know if
buying a car from that source is
reliable. Does have any tips on where
to search for the vr-4?
- ----------------------------->
Decide how
far away you're willing to travel and enter the radius in miles,
and the
year/model you want on:
www.autotrader.comBest,
Forrest
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#853
***************************************