Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, May 27
2002 Volume 01 : Number
852
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 May 2002 13:06:17 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: was Open Track Rain Report, now handling/tires
I am going to
piggy back on this topic and give a plug for BFG KDWS (as in
wet +
snow) They have a treadwear rating of 400 and when I had them on
my
MKIV they were great in the rain...
I have them on my
VR and other than the fact that in 18" sizes are kinda
limited they are still
wonderful. I would definately use them in the rain
at the track, shoot
my 12.98 at the drag strip was run on those tires have
not yet run them at
LRP (Lime Rock Park).
Price wise they arent too bad IIRC I aid 138
each and now to just get my new
17's to clear brake upgrades........
-
-----Original Message-----
From: S. J Cowan [mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent: Sun 5/26/2002 10:35 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.com Cc:
Subject: Re:
Team3S: was Open Track Rain Report, now handling/tires
Philip:
I'm going to add my 2hp here and agree with Rich -- did I say that out
loud? Oh the humanity... Anyway, it sounds like tires to
me. In fact,
tires can make a huge difference. I live here in
sunny, warm, sub
tropical Wisconsin (say it with me now --
WES-konnn-sin). In the winter,
I simply swap wheels and tires and use
Michelin XM+S's. Pass all the
soccer Mom's in their Navigator's and
Expeditions half in and out of the
ditches who think that 4wd button means
something more. Granted, we have
snow plows the size of my house up
here so they've really got a handle on
it when it snows (unlike Ohio where
you just shut the city down for
3/4"), but I remember one day the toughest
part was simply getting into
the car to drive home. It drove and
handled like a dream. SO, I'd say
tyres also. And at the track
or on the street, you're going to have to
back it down with the Z's or
Yoko's or whatever in the rain. Just the
nature of the tire and
conditions. I suppose you could take the M+S's to
the track if it
rains. ;-)
Best,
SJ
> Another thing. I hated
how my car handled in the snow and on ice. It
> plows
> straight
like a bulldozer and has no traction whatsoever. But it is
> perfect
> on dry asphalt. It must be the tires that make all the difference.
> Rich
> likes wet track but Dave T does not.
>
>
Philip
>
> At 15:14 5/25/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net wrote:
> >Geez, Dave, I pray for rain at every event, because the car sticks
> like
> >glue and I can lap everybody. When it rains, I put on
the street
> Michelin
> >Pilots.
> >Must be your
tires.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 13:09:06
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: size of hub?
does anyone know the size of the wheel hub? Is
it the same size as the DSM
hub?
thanks
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 19:22:35
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
To create a 700hp car you may
invest about $8000 at least. The electronic
devices are the cheapest ones for
sure !
Fuel :
To provide enough fuel, the 720cc are a must (~$100
each). Use whatever you
like to control them but get rid of the stock MAS as
it becomes quickly a
restriction (~$1000). Supra Pump at least
(~$250)
Air :
Turbos is clear (~$2300) but then also the intercoolers
and piping must be
done to prevent pressure loss and to provide efficient air
cooling (~$2500)
Exhaust :
Of course as free as possible. No cats,
downpipe, free flow muffler(s)
(~$800)
Clutch :
The stock clutch
cannot hold high power. A good high power clutch must go
in
(~$450)
Engine :
Forged pistons are a must (~$1200 with
everything)
Labour :
Around ~$1800 for everything
Total
??? Sorry... I underestimated the costs !!
So, if you want to have
that amount of power you may safe some more money.
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Roman"
<
romachka21@netscape.net>;
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Sunday, May 26, 2002 3:08 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP
VR-4.
> > You need more than ARC2 for 700Hp, youre
> >
gonna wanna go full management.
> > Youve chosen a lofty goal..720cc
injectors for sure.
>
> I'd agree... The ARC2 is decent, but
would need quite a bit of help to
get
> you to 700HP. On a '94
VR4 you don't have any datalogging capability at
> this point, that's
something you'll need to solve to achieve a 700HP goal
> with any level of
repeatability.
<snip>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 12:09:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
You sure, I thought
that would be 25%.
On Sun, 26 May 2002, Dave and Becky Trent
wrote:
> Sorry, that would be 50% of the available adjustment on the
AFC. If I
> recall, that equates to ~15% of the actual MAF
signal.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
> Cc:
"Team3s" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2002 8:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi
SAFC run 550cc injectors?
>
> > -50%?
> >
> >
Sounds rather lean..
> >
> > On Sat, 25 May 2002, Dave and
Becky Trent wrote:
> >
> > > Yes. I installed the
550's, wired the AFC, turned down the MAF signal
> ~50%
> > >
and it fired right up and ran fine. I followed up by using a volt
meter
> on
> > > the O2 sensor and dialed in. Runs like
a champ. It's not uncommon to
> make
> > > a slight
re-adjustment in the winter.
> > >
> > >
Regards,
> > > DaveT/92TT
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 15:48:07
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Japan and Euro Caps
I was looking at the interesting posts on the
Japan and Euro version of Caps. What is the difference between those
versions and the
US version which I downloaded a while ago ?
If it is
useful, I would be interested in it. Unfortunately I had to move due to
unemployment and could not get broadband where I
am. Would someone put
it on a CD for me ?
It would be greatly appreciated.
Anthony
Melillo
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 16:06:24
-0400 (EDT)
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
(Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: door weather stripping
I own a 1994
Mitsubishi 3000GT. An unknown person backed into it in the
parking lot at
work a couple of weeks ago and left large dent in the
fender. I have
decided to have the entire car painted. I wanted to
replace some weather
stripping when I do this. My body shop is having
trouble finding the part. I
don't have the part number for it, but it is
the flat piece of rubber that
attaches to the door where the window
comes up. It is a wide strip and has a
felt-like backing. It angles
from the car door and lays flat against
the window. If you were to drive
with the window down and lay your arm on the
window sill, you would be
touching this piece of rubber. Do you guys have any
ideas where I can
get this? I am a new 3000 owner and don't have any
connections as to
where to get what. Thanks, Kim
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 15:23:24
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: door weather stripping
> I have decided to have the entire car
painted. I wanted to
> replace some weather stripping when I do this. My
body shop is having
> trouble finding the part. I don't have the part
number for it, but it is
> the flat piece of rubber that attaches to the
door where the window
> comes up. It is a wide strip and has a
felt-like backing. It angles
> from the car door and lays flat
against the window.
Sounds like the outer window trim on the door.
If that's what you are
describing, then the part numbers should
be:
MR153919 for the driver's side
MR153920 for the passenger
side
The Part Name Codes are 67436L and 67436R if they ask.
Both
should be available from a Mitsubishi dealer.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 22:44:50
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: OBDII - Online Tuning !
Good news for all OBDII equipped cars
(and their owners). I spoke with a
mechanic today that just got from a
training for the latest tuning products.
In principle it's easy as it is a
box in between the OBDII diagnostic
connector and the serial port of any PC.
The box again is connected to
different sensors and optional to the dyno
signal output. With the special
software the program IN THE ECU can be
altered to the optimal performance.
The external signals are from an exhaust
sneeker, pressure, temp, timing
.... The software adjusts the internal
paramters of the ECU by itself as
well as some manual changes are easily to
be set.
The software looks very complicated and expensive. Trainigns must
be taken
to learn how to tune the cars with this tool as it is made for ANY
OBDII
car. The onyl drawback is that the software msut find the maps
and
additional parameters. Here the makers are not giving any
information
,especially not the japaense ones.
At the moment, all
european cars are hacked and can be tuned within half an
hour. As an example,
an Audi A4 1.8 turbo with 150hp on the dyno got the
program changed on the
fly while on the drums and got 185hp at the end
without any problems (intake
temp has risen due to lack of intercooling, WI
is on order). Later
adjustemnts can be done easily by hooking up the OBDII
Tuner and just
changing the paramters on the MAP. The initial tuning for the
A4 cost was
$500, half what other known good chip-tuning costs.
The Mitsus and
Toyotas are not yet hacked as the demand is very low here.
But for sure there
is a tool around for garages (cost is around $8500) that
is able to tune all
OBDII cars online without any other changes or opening
anything ! I hope to
hear more about our cars sometimes as they are on the
EVO ECU to hack it
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 13:55:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OBDII - Online Tuning !
Greddy
E-Manage.
<$1000. Coming soon.
On Sun, 26 May 2002, Roger
Gerl wrote:
> Good news for all OBDII equipped cars (and their
owners). I spoke with a
> mechanic today that just got from a training for
the latest tuning products.
> In principle it's easy as it is a box in
between the OBDII diagnostic
> connector and the serial port of any PC.
The box again is connected to
> different sensors and optional to the dyno
signal output. With the special
> software the program IN THE ECU can be
altered to the optimal performance.
> The external signals are from an
exhaust sneeker, pressure, temp, timing
> .... The software adjusts the
internal paramters of the ECU by itself as
> well as some manual changes
are easily to be set.
>
> The software looks very complicated and
expensive. Trainigns must be taken
> to learn how to tune the cars with
this tool as it is made for ANY OBDII
> car. The onyl drawback is that the
software msut find the maps and
> additional parameters. Here the makers
are not giving any information
> ,especially not the japaense
ones.
>
> At the moment, all european cars are hacked and can be
tuned within half an
> hour. As an example, an Audi A4 1.8 turbo with
150hp on the dyno got the
> program changed on the fly while on the drums
and got 185hp at the end
> without any problems (intake temp has risen due
to lack of intercooling, WI
> is on order). Later adjustemnts can be done
easily by hooking up the OBDII
> Tuner and just changing the paramters on
the MAP. The initial tuning for the
> A4 cost was $500, half what other
known good chip-tuning costs.
>
> The Mitsus and Toyotas are not
yet hacked as the demand is very low here.
> But for sure there is a tool
around for garages (cost is around $8500) that
> is able to tune all OBDII
cars online without any other changes or opening
> anything ! I hope to
hear more about our cars sometimes as they are on the
> EVO ECU to hack it
;-)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch- ---
Geoff
Mohler
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 15:55:02
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
Anthony,
I think you broke
your 1st/2nd gear shift fork. That's exactly what happened to me (except
for the not on it part, I was drag racing ;)). I took it to a local tranny
shop, where they told me I needed 1/2, 3/4, and 5/6 shift forks, 1 & 2
3-piece syncros, and 3, 4, 5, and 6 1-piece synchros, a full bearing kit, and a
full seal kit. I imagine with your low mileage, you probably won't have to
replace so many things - I drive my car hard and have 110k on it :)
Good
news is Kormex send me the parts 2-day, and shippped them out the day I ordered
them. I guess we must break these things often enough to be an in-stock
item :)
Good Luck!
geis
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Anthony & Susan [mailto:jetbike@worldlynx.net]
> Sent: Friday,
May 24, 2002 11:20 AM
> To: Stealth Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject:
Team3S: FW: Tranny Stuff (was DYNO #s)
>
>
> Mat,
> I
was driving home when I shifted from 1st to 2nd (not on
> it!!!!) heard
a
> clunk and it felt like I ran over a pot hole. At the next
>
light when I went
> to pull out the RPM'S went up but the car would not
move. I
> didn't smell the
> clutch at all. I did get it moving
using higher gears (low
> torque no boost)
> At idle it sounds like
a scraping as the motor spins. I took it to my
> mechanic. He said when he
drained the trans. fluid a lot of
> metal came out.
> That's where
I'm at. Kormex said they would let me know what
> broke when they
>
get the trans. back. As far as shifting it was smooth through
> all gears
and
> that's what I don't understand. What do you think?
>
>
Thanx
>
> Anthony
> 93 Stealth R/T Twin
Turbo
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 17:35:56
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
Thank you
very much for the comments.
Just to clear up some confusion I DO have a
modded block with forged rods & pistons umong other stuff. I do have a RPS
MAX Clutch. The exaust will be moded after the Fuel system and the turbos are
inplace, since it is not worth the money for the HP gains. Although I am very
tempted since it looks and sounds nice.
I am sorta bumbed out that 720
injectors are $180 and I am not familiar with other Fuel managment systems
besides th SAFC wich will not control the 720 injectors.
I completly agree
about the data logging capabilities since I do not want to blow up a $12,000
block. I would like to monitor knock sums.
So here it is I think that in
order to make the 700 HP I think I should be able to manage with just Air to
fuel adjustments "Fuel system of some sort that can manage 720 injectors"
Airflow, I would like to see if there is anything else out there besides the ARC
to replace the stock Air sensor.
Please comment if I should be
monitoring/controling anything else besides the air with AVCR and DR-650 turobs,
fuel 720 injectors I would like to pay about $100 per injector If you know the
site where I can get them I would realy appreciate that. Fuel Pump, Will the
Walbro 255LPH be enough?
Fuel managment system ??? I am completly clueless
now since I thought I cauld use SAFC. And a new MAS.
So in the mean time
I will order DR-650 turbos wich should be a direct replacement. Just a simple
swap nothing needs to be changed just some tweaking to the boost and the Walbor
if the list agrees that I can use it with the 720 injectors that I will order
with the Fuel Mangement system later.
This should put me into mid 12 sec
since I am running 13.2 now.
Please comment on all of the questions since
I have several through out the email.
Thank you so much for your input,
it is realy helpfull and I know that I will be doing this the correct way
now.
Roman G.
"Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
wrote:
>> You need more than ARC2 for 700Hp, youre
>>
gonna wanna go full management.
>> Youve chosen a lofty goal..720cc
injectors for sure.
>
>I'd agree... The ARC2 is decent, but would
need quite a bit of help to get
>you to 700HP. On a '94 VR4 you don't have
any datalogging capability at
>this point, that's something you'll need to
solve to achieve a 700HP goal
>with any level of
repeatability.
>
>I know I've been hawking it a lot lately, but I'd
go with the EFI Systems
>PMS instead. You get much more tweakability than
available on the ARC2, you
>get datalogging of the important engine
variables (A/F ratio, airflow,
>injector pulsewidth, RPM, boost pressure,
timing advance, etc.) and full
>control over fuel and timing in much more
granular fashion than you can
>achieve with the ARC2.
>
>The
ARC2 is an overpriced toy compared to the PMS. The only benefit it
has
>over the PMS is the hotwire airflow sensor, which you could
probably
>implement on the PMS later with not much
hassle.
>
>Beyond the PMS you've got devices like Haltech, Autronic,
Motec, etc. Not
>easy to program, or easy to hook up. The AEM EMS sounds
like it could be a
>long wait until it is working properly (it has been
vaporware for quite a
>while now), although supposedly they are looking
for a fairly stock 3/S in
>southern California for testing (3 weeks
without your car and you get a EMS
>for
"wholesale").
>
>VPC/AFC is also a possibility but then you are back
to not having logging
>for your '94.
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 17:45:16
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
> So in the mean time I will
order DR-650 turbos wich should
> be a direct replacement. Just a simple
swap nothing needs to
> be changed just some tweaking to the boost and the
Walbor
> if the list agrees that I can use it with the 720 injectors that
I
> will order with the Fuel Mangement system later.
The Walbro is
a good pump, but not for 720cc injectors. According to the
charts that
Jeff has on his site they look to be good for 450cc injectors or
maybe
550s. The Supra pump flows better than the Walbro, but probably
still
isn't enough to fully use 720s to their full capability. That's
why people
are doing crazy things like putting in dual Supra pumps or dual
Walbro pumps
and upgrading their fuel lines and rails and such.
Jeff's
site answers tons of these sorts of questions if you dig around
long
enough. A treasure trove of information to be certain!
http://www.stealth316.comAlso don't
run more than 13 psi on the DR-650's with stock injectors. The
stock
injectors will be way on the ragged edge, and you'll probably get fuel
cut
from time to time at high RPM.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 19:00:55
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gutting the pre-cats
Hi all,
I got under my car the other
day to check out where and how easy it is to
take off and gut the
pre-cats. I didn't know where the pre-cats were, or
the main cat for
that matter! :( I checked the Archives to see if there was
any help
with the process, but to my dismay, there was none that helped out
a great
deal. Any advise or pics on this subject would be
greatly
appreciated. Thank you
Thanks again,
Brent
H.
96' Dodge Stealth (Base)
K&N FIPK
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 21:03:45
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting the pre-cats
> I got under my car the other day to
check out where and how easy it is to
> take off and gut the
pre-cats. I didn't know where the pre-cats were, or
> the main cat
for that matter! :(
Non-turbo cars don't have pre-cats, but the main cat
is partway down the
exhaust pipe kind of under the car where the seats are
mounted. It is a
rectangular-shaped box in the middle of the exhaust
pipe attached with
flanges. I think it is attached with two bolts on
the side towards the
engine and two nuts on the side towards the
trunk.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 23:35:48
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Gutting the pre-cats
I believe 96+ or 97+ non-turbos do have precats..
for those of you with
later model nonturbos thinking of doing
this.
Omar
- -----Original Message-----
> I got under my car
the other day to check out where and how easy it is
to
> take off and
gut the pre-cats. I didn't know where the pre-cats were,
or
> the
main cat for that matter! :(
Non-turbo cars don't have pre-cats, but the
main cat is partway down the
exhaust pipe kind of under the car where the
seats are mounted. It is a
rectangular-shaped box in the middle of the
exhaust pipe attached with
flanges. I think it is attached with two
bolts on the side towards the
engine and two nuts on the side towards the
trunk.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 23:41:08
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting the pre-cats
Is that why the 97+ SL is rated at 218 HP
and 91-96 N/A is listed at 222 HP?
- -mike
97 SL
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:59:03
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
SAFC *CAN* run the 720's. Check
the thread called "Can the Apexi SAFC run
550cc injectors?" from three days
ago.
Philip
At 17:35 5/26/2002, Roman wrote:
>I am sorta
bumbed out that 720 injectors are $180 and I am not familiar
>with other
Fuel managment systems besides th SAFC wich will not control
>the 720
injectors.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 00:25:17
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
> SAFC *CAN* run the 720's.
Check the thread called "Can the Apexi
> SAFC run 550cc injectors?" from
three days ago.
That was theoretical data - I don't know anyone
personally who was
successful (or happy) with running 720's on a SAFC.
Poor tip-in throttle
response was one of the issues, the other issue was the
stock ECU trying to
advance the timing too far since it saw airflow values so
low.
Anyone on the list successfully running 720s and SAFC
together?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 22:36:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
> That was theoretical data
- I don't know anyone personally who was
> successful (or happy) with
running 720's on a SAFC. Poor tip-in throttle
> response was one of
the issues, the other issue was the stock ECU trying to
> advance the
timing too far since it saw airflow values so low.
- ---
Im of the
opinion, that perhaps 720s are difficult to idle well due to the
extremely
short injector rates..gotta step up to pintle type (if I
recall). Also,
the timing problem just needs a simple ITC to solve it.
> Anyone
on the list successfully running 720s and SAFC together?
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 02:59:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Bill -- Check with the group with
which you will be running. You
usually can use the stock seat with
stock seatbelt until a certain Grade
or Class. For example, I am
allowed to use a race seat for the driver
and a stock seat for the passenger
since I am still in the Beginner or
Intermediate group. However, once I
move up higher (with my local PCA)
I will be expected to have the same seat
style in both positions.
Each group differs with respect to the sporty
race seats that also
recline. Some don't mind, some do not want them
used with rollbars as
the recline feature can fail in a crash and you would
bump your noggin
into the rollbar, and others want a seatback brace to be
installed to
the rollbar so you can not lean back in a crash.
Usually,
stock seats are fine with stock restraint systems. As soon as
you want
to put in a race harness then you should start considering race
seats and a
rollbar. It is just like adding 700 hp to the engine and
keeping the
stock brakes. Just ludicrous. Ya gotta be able to stop so
you
need to do things together sometimes. Not many people buy track
wheels
and then put on M+S tires (unless they are learning how to
control the car)
but they put on track tires. Same goes with lots of
other areas
too. 720cc injectors? Gotta upgrade fuel pump. You get
the
idea.
The reclining sport seat is similar to the street hoop "rollbar"
that is
not a true rollbar but one that is stylish. It may look good
and be
okay for Autocross but those organizations that are real picky
sometimes
will not allow it. For some reason they would prefer the
stock seat
over a sporty seat that reclines.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill vp
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002
21:43
Does this mean you cannot use the stock (which reclines) seat, or
does
this
apply only to aftermarket seats?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 2:25
PM
Just a reminder ... the Torino is not an approved racing seat for
those
interested in doing Open Track events or Autocross. Some groups
will
allow this (it tilts back and race-approved or FIA-approved seats are
a
fixed recline angle).
Just in case someone didn't see that before
they purchased them. Good
luck.
In case it helps I have a Sparco
Evo in my car and I can't mention how
nice it is. Removable cloth cover
for washing, removable back and
bottom cushion for washing or to shrink just
that last inch, etc. I
love them.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 03:05:43
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reclining seats and open tracking
Oskar -- I read this one out of
order since I was away for the week and
sorted the 120'ish emails by
subject.
Refer to the last email I sent (subject of " RE: Team3S: [For
Sale]
Sparco Torino seats") where I mention the point about stock seat
and
stock restraint systems.
It really just depends on the group you
are with. AutoX is WAY
different than dragstrip and open track.
My first open track I was
required to put the valve stem caps on, open both
windows, wear a
helmet, and close the sunroof. My first experience of a
dragstrip
firsthand I got to see cars with windows being mandated to roll
their
windows up, helmet not required until under a certain time,
sunroof
could be open or removed, etc.
All groups are different so ask
the Safety Steward of your local SCCA
AutoX or BMWCCA or Quattro Club or
Porsche Club about the rules. Many
Driver School entrance fees are
non-refundable the day of the event so
you do not want to get there and be
turned away because your stock seats
are 400 miles away at home.
I was
mentioning the reclining seats because someone who might be open
tracking
with race harnesses and rollbars might want them. However, a
reclining
seat is not generally allowed when you have a race harness and
a
rollbar. Most of the time they want to see a fixed-recline angle
race
seat. But your club may be different. I'm just trying to
make people
aware who might now know there are different types of race
seats.
Thanks for asking.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Oskar Persson
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002
00:40
I'm curious about this statement as well. I have never
had any problems
using my stock seats at any of the many auto-x and open rack
events that
I
have participated in. Of course they are not approved
racing seats.
Darren, is it possible that you can shed some light on
this.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 03:56:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
Agreed. I will have video up soon of
some slow laps at the Glen in a
friend's car (my in-car) in the pouring rain
and then some of the peanut
butter soup fog where you can't see 400 feet to
the corner worker.
Nothing can match the Bridgestone Blizzak for my
winter tire. I live
with black ice, slush, heavy snow, and rarely
packed snow so I do not
need the all-out snow tire but something that handles
ice and snow and
has grooves or channels for the slush and water on the
road. I tested
this and the road leading out of the neighborhood is
quite steep
although I have not measured it before. I drove halfway up
(about 75
feet long is the hill), stopped, waited a few seconds to make sure
I was
not sliding backwards, and started up in first gear with no wheel
spin.
Man was that nice. Coming down, slowly, I stopped in the middle
of the
hill and just clung to the ground. That was fun. I think
DesertFox up
in Montana swears by the Pirelli tire for his winter travel but
that is
mainly packed snow.
As far as rain tire, the Yokohama A-032 is
supposed to be good when new
since it has some sizable tread on it in a very
pronounced pattern. At
the last event I saw car after car with Toyo
Proxies (not sure of the
model) and each driver would explain how awesome the
tire was. Those
were rain track tires and rain street tires are the
Pole Position I
think or the Aquatread style ones with plenty of channels for
water. At
these times (heavy rain) you are just trying to get around
the track and
in damp conditions you are enjoying the AWD
capability.
Driver window must always be rolled down on road events to
signal when
and where to pass, when you are entering the pits, etc.
Passenger
window is optional usually. Mix of exhaled air (hot), outside
air
(cold), and who knows what else generally makes for fogged
windows
requiring heat and/or air conditioning defrost to keep the
windows
cleared and opening the windows usually helps too. If those
open
cockpit guys can do it then one open window won't kill you. Just
tape
down a bunch of towels on the floor and next to the seat if you
don't
like that much water.
Be mindful of your camera though --
electronics do not always like
water.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2002
23:11
You wont get much water in the car while moving..
And
yes, its a freakin blast.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/celicas/gt4-sp.zip***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 04:16:21
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
With regards to the SAFC and the
ARC2 ... what is the difference that
one can run the 720 cc injectors easily
(ARC2) and one that appears to
be able to run them (SAFC)? I am trying
to help tweak a friend's car
and don't have a datalogger yet.
Through
a series of Murphy's Law plus a mis-diagnosis we managed to melt
his pistons
from detonation and perhaps dieseling because timing was not
correct (and
spark plug range was not one to two ranges colder).
In his ARC2 just one
click on the Low knob setting makes the car die or
run. At speed a one
click adjustment in the Middle knob setting makes
it run just one LED under
stoich on the A/F meter to one LED short of
full Rich condition. Is
this the "tweakability" you talk about Matt
with the PMS vs. the ARC2?
Isn't the SAFC better at tweaking things by
RPM or gear but then it might not
be able to handle the 720 injectors,
right?
If the PMS has datalogging
capability and the stock ECU or MAS will be
replaced then will the TMO
Datalogger (or similar diagnostic port
logger) be useful or will the PMS or
other high-end system be able to
give me the info required to tune the
car?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt
Jannusch
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 01:25
> SAFC *CAN* run
the 720's. Check the thread called "Can the Apexi
> SAFC run 550cc
injectors?" from three days ago.
That was theoretical data - I don't know
anyone personally who was
successful (or happy) with running 720's on a
SAFC. Poor tip-in
throttle
response was one of the issues, the other
issue was the stock ECU trying
to
advance the timing too far since it saw
airflow values so low.
Anyone on the list successfully running 720s and
SAFC together?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 04:30:06
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sparco Seats
I like my Sparco Evo and that's that. As long
as you are under about
200 pounds then you will have no problem fitting in
them. Your height
depends on how high off the floor you mount
them. Mine mount low enough
that I can use the armrest in the driver's
door comfortably and can
barely see the bumps in the second gen hood. I
think I have it mounted
up one hole on the mounting brackets and then another
2" off the floor.
I can provide pictures if interested.
The Sparco Evo
is a fixed-recline angle fiberglass seat weighing
approximately 16 pounds
(bathroom scale) and is comfortable for about
2-4 hours. Longer driving
stints require pain killers, towels for lower
back (lumbar) support, another
driver, a short rest outside the seat,
etc.
Remember that for any
stock seat modification the stock seat belt
retainer (the part you clip your
seat belt into ... whatever it is
called) is attached to the stock
seat. If you remove your seat then you
remove the place to attach the
seat belt. You can mount this back to
the tranny tunnel/center console
area but I think a junkyard Eclipse or
3/S item would be easier to
permanently attach instead of constantly
removing the stock seat belt latch
(which has wires to it for the seat
belt indicator on the dash and some other
stuff that makes it difficult
to remove from the seat).
Also, in PA it
is illegal to try and pass the annual inspection if you
can not use your
stock seat belts. Removal of the race seat prior to
inspection and
installation of it again after inspection is necessary.
Anyone within
driving distance of Western PA is more than welcome to try
out the
seat. It is on a bracket that allows mounting to the stock
location on
a second gen VR-4 but I have not tried it on other models.
Shoot -- I
almost forgot about the eBay auction -- that is a good price
but a little
high unless they are brand-spanking new. I bought my set
(one red and
one blue) for $800 from England (Subaru list discount and
group buy at the
time but we had to add $25 because both were not the
same color). I
think the Blue one is still in the bag and wrapped up.
These included the
mounting brackets but we had to fab the bracket to
mount it to the
floor. $875 for two is also a great price for them but
ask me more
questions if you have them. I forget what brands of racing
seats we
have in our cars. Maybe we need another page on Team3S listing
this
stuff, where they were from, and the price paid so newbies can get
an idea of
a ballpark figure for things.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dave and Becky Trent
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002
09:42
I've come across a set of new Sparco Evo or Pro 2000 (both
fiberglass)
seats
with brackets and shipping for $875 on ebay. I
know Darren has
commented
favorably on his Evo seats. Anyone care to
comment before I pull the
trigger?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 04:35:22
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: door weather stripping
I think I have the passenger side window
weather stripping off of
Mohler's project/track car from about two years
ago. I compared it to
mine when I had the door panel off but mine was
not in as bad a shape as
I had thought. Would this be of help to you or
anyone? I think I have
all but one clip/staple in it but that can be
ordered from the dealer
(although they might charge $8 for the piece of metal
clip and only $12
for a perfectly intact weather strip).
Let me know
what side of the car you need. From Matt's numbers I would
say it is
the MR153920 part.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002
16:23
> I have decided to have the entire car painted. I wanted
to
> replace some weather stripping when I do this. My body shop is
having
> trouble finding the part. I don't have the part number for it,
but it
is
> the flat piece of rubber that attaches to the door where
the window
> comes up. It is a wide strip and has a felt-like
backing. It angles
> from the car door and lays flat against the
window.
Sounds like the outer window trim on the door. If that's
what you are
describing, then the part numbers should be:
MR153919 for
the driver's side
MR153920 for the passenger side
The Part Name Codes
are 67436L and 67436R if they ask.
Both should be available from a
Mitsubishi dealer.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:48:15
+0200
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Gearbox & Transaxle problems
Hi, I got the following problems, and
I'm quite puzzled.
Background
Car is a 1992 Stealth RT/TT, 150.000 km
(about 90.000 miles)
In good general condition.
Last transmission fluid
change was done at the 100.000 / 90.00mi
Problem
It became
recently harder & harder to shift from 2dn to 3rd, and I could
hear "low
grinding" noises from the gearbox area.
The car was cold (night
outside)
I put my stealth on ramps under the front weels.
I crawled under
it.
I opened the transaxle refill plug.
Could not feel any fluid in
there, medium to strong "rotten fish" smell.
Opened the gearbox refill
plug.
Surprise number 1 : The gearbox was under vacuum. When I started to
open the
refill plug, I could hear a hissing sound....this sound became
louder &
louder as I kept opening the plug. This sound lasted about 20
secs until I
completely removed the plug.
I could feel some
fluid.
Actions
I added 12 FlOz of transmission fluid in the
transaxle (with some teflon
additives in there...but it's not the discussion
point here)
I added 8 FlOz in the gearbox (same as above)
Re-plug
everything, went for a test drive.
After a couple hundred meters, I had
the strange feeling that the rear tires
were on somethinig very
slippery...but this did not last very long.
Kept driving, went back
home.
Upon stoppinig, I smelled burning oil, and sure, the undercarriage of
the
car was sprayed with hot transmission oil...damm.
I put the car on
the ramps, I could NOT locate any leak anywhere (after I
cleaned the
area).
I drained about 1flOz of the transaxle case.
Went for a test
drive, including some highway drive...no problem, no further
leak that I
could see.
Left the car sitting overnight....no oil drops on the
floor.
Next day, washed the undercarriage of the stealth (to have it
clean)
Went driving for about 100 km (60 miles), on tristy road, and
highway.
No further leak that I could locate, no special
noise.
The gearbox shifts better than before, and I do not have any
grinding noises
anymore.
So....
questions.
- - Is it
normal that the gearbox is airtight ?
- - It there any possiblity that I
over-filled the transaxle ?
- - Given that the gearbox seems to be
airtight....it's NOT possible to have
an
- - Did I damegeg something
?
- - Is that normal that the Stealth is "using/burning/drinking" that
much
trans oil in the gearbox / transaxle ?
Any comments ?
TIA,
best
Henri
PS: Please reply directly to me, as I'm on the digest,
and I do NOT get all
of them
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 06:46:39
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gearbox & Transaxle problems
The trans axel has a vent so it should
not be under pressure or
vacuum --- it is not sealed !!!
Did you put
in trans fluid or gear lube --- your statement makes
it sound like you put
in automatic trans fluid ?!?!?!
Get a manual --- the trans axel should be
filled to the bottom of
the fill plug and the fluid should not come out
unless you somehow
managed to overfill it. I'd drain the fluid and find out
what's in the
trans.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 17:24:31
+0200
From: "H. Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gearbox & Transaxle problems
>>The trans axel has a
vent so it should not be under pressure or
>>vacuum --- it is not
sealed !!!
Interesting....do you know where it is....on the top maybe (so
it's
impossible to see from under the car ?)
And my gearbox was
definitively under a large vacuum. If there's a vent,
then I have a problem
in there !
>>Did you put in trans fluid or gear lube --- your
statement makes
>>it sound like you put in automatic trans fluid
?!?!?!
Initially, the DEALER changed all the fluids....but I agree with
you, the
"rotten fish smell" made me think of burned ATF.....
I re-added
trans fluid, NOT ATF
>>Get a manual
I do have the CD-Rom
version....and my laptop was with me under the car
while I was
working...
I used instructions in section 00 / general Maintenance... now if
only the
pics in the manual could be of better quality, and if they could use
a small
arrow to show the nose of the car, that would be
helpful
>> --- the trans axel should be filled to the bottom
of
>>the fill plug and the fluid should not come out unless you
somehow
>>managed to overfill it.
It's basically what I
did...
>> I'd drain the fluid and find out what's in
the
>>trans.
As soon as I find the time to do it...I will do
it
Thank you for your help
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:43:49
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
> Through a series of Murphy's
Law plus a mis-diagnosis we managed to melt
> his pistons from detonation
and perhaps dieseling because timing was not
> correct (and spark plug
range was not one to two ranges colder).
Ouch!
> In his ARC2
just one click on the Low knob setting makes the car
> die or run.
At speed a one click adjustment in the Middle knob
> setting makes it run
just one LED under stoich on the A/F meter
> to one LED short of full Rich
condition. Is this the "tweakability"
> you talk about Matt with the
PMS vs. the ARC2? Isn't the
> SAFC better at tweaking things by RPM
or gear but then it
> might not be able to handle the 720 injectors,
right?
Mine wasn't that bad, but I had similar issues with the ARC2 where
I just
couldn't get my fuel curve to be just right. It would have
either lean
spots or rich spots, and idle was pretty poor. The Accel
adjustment was too
coarse to allow me to get idling working well - and that
was only on 550's.
Maybe newer versions of the ARC2 are better, but I got
frustrated and
switched to the PMS. The car also didn't have very
repeatable performance
on the ARC2 - one day it would spin all four wheels
and the next day it
would be a dog. It could've been that I didn't tune
it well since I didn't
have any datalogging capability at the time. It
just didn't work in my
situation.
> If the PMS has datalogging
capability and the stock ECU or MAS will be
> replaced then will the TMO
Datalogger (or similar diagnostic port
> logger) be useful or will the PMS
or other high-end system be able to
> give me the info required to tune
the car?
The PMS still retains the stock ECU, so if you have a '91-93 car
you can
still hook up a TMO datalogger to the diagnostic port and get data on
knock
sum. The PMS has its own logger software that will provide better
numbers
on everything else, since the PMS is modifying various things after
the ECU
outputs the signals (timing offsets, fuel offsets, etc.). If
you use some
sort of full ECU replacement (like a Haltech or AEM EMS (if they
ever
actually make it)) then the diagnostic connector won't be connected
to
anything - you'd need to use the aftermarket ECU's software.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:09:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
Well, the melted pistons were from
a mis-cue on overheating cuz the A/C
condenser was in front of the radiator
and a FMIC was in front of that
so we thought it was not getting enough air
so we were ready to add some
water and then water wetter to the mix. We
knew something was wrong as
it was in the 60s and still overheating in 5
laps.
We knew that after the three days the water pump, belts, and
thermostat
would get checked/replaced. We had a plain ol' NAPA
thermostat ready to
go in (that gave us an additional 10 degrees before
opening/shutting)
but never got the chance to put it in.
When I got
back from town I saw the front valve cover off and the roller
(rocker arm)
from the #1 cylinder's front exhaust valve was not where it
should be.
The rocker arm (the part that the cam pushes down against
the valve spring)
was off and lying next to the spring. That was an
interesting chore
getting it back on without the special tool shown in
the manual. Those
valve springs are pretty stiff.
Upon removing the front three spark plugs
their electrodes were touching
the ceramic tip of themselves. There was
no shiny part so the piston
did not push them against the spark plug (meaning
timing was off or a
timing belt slipped teeth) but the timing could not be
advanced enough
(I think max is about 50 degrees BTDC on a first gen) that
detonation
occurred as well as probably dieseling.
EGT temps were
around 900 Celsius (1,650 F) which got the spark plug
electrode tips so hot
that the dieseling and power of the explosion
pushed them against themselves
and no spark means no go.
It was fine under 1 bar of boost but when the
boost was pushed to 1.5
bar then we saw all these problems. That's what
happens on 720 cc
injectors, 368 turbos, and a powerful engine on stock
internals with too
much boost. I made sure it was never running close
to stoich but always
on the rich side under WOT. Idle was horrible at
first but the second
day it was able to idle without intervention.
A
fix is on the way with rods, pistons, etc. and I hope to have some
sort of
logger by then to help but we'll see. It was finally fun to
pass that
Z06 and Porsche 993 on the straights for a change. Even the
Viper gave
us a point by. I shall never forget that image.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002
11:44
> Through a series of Murphy's Law plus a mis-diagnosis we
managed to
melt
> his pistons from detonation and perhaps dieseling
because timing was
not
> correct (and spark plug range was not one to
two ranges colder).
Ouch!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:06:56
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
[For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
The PCA is a PITA ---- they seem to be the
most restrictive of the
sanctioning organizations. They were talking of [ I
don't think they
actually did it ] changing the helmet requirement to Snell
2000 about
a year ago which means you would have to go out and buy a new
$300
helmet to run their events !!!! Most require Snell 90 or 95 although
the
Snell 90 is starting to
fade.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Bill -- Check with the group with which you will be running. You
>
usually can use the stock seat with stock seatbelt until a certain Grade
>
or Class. For example, I am allowed to use a race seat for the
driver
> and a stock seat for the passenger since I am still in the
Beginner or
> Intermediate group. However, once I move up higher
(with my local PCA)
> I will be expected to have the same seat style in
both positions.
>
> Each group differs with respect to the sporty
race seats that also
> recline. Some don't mind, some do not want
them used with rollbars as
> the recline feature can fail in a crash and
you would bump your noggin
> into the rollbar, and others want a seatback
brace to be installed to
> the rollbar so you can not lean back in a
crash.
>
> Usually, stock seats are fine with stock restraint
systems. As soon as
> you want to put in a race harness then you
should start considering race
> seats and a rollbar. It is just like
adding 700 hp to the engine and
> keeping the stock brakes. Just
ludicrous. Ya gotta be able to stop so
> you need to do things
together sometimes. Not many people buy track
> wheels and then put
on M+S tires (unless they are learning how to
> control the car) but they
put on track tires. Same goes with lots of
> other areas too.
720cc injectors? Gotta upgrade fuel pump. You get
> the
idea.
>
> The reclining sport seat is similar to the street hoop
"rollbar" that is
> not a true rollbar but one that is stylish. It
may look good and be
> okay for Autocross but those organizations that are
real picky sometimes
> will not allow it. For some reason they would
prefer the stock seat
> over a sporty seat that reclines.
>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill
vp
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 21:43
>
> Does this mean you
cannot use the stock (which reclines) seat, or does
> this
> apply
only to aftermarket seats?
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Darren Schilberg
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 2:25 PM
>
> Just a reminder ... the Torino is not an approved racing seat for
those
> interested in doing Open Track events or Autocross. Some
groups will
> allow this (it tilts back and race-approved or FIA-approved
seats are a
> fixed recline angle).
>
> Just in case someone
didn't see that before they purchased them. Good
> luck.
>
> In case it helps I have a Sparco Evo in my car and I can't mention
how
> nice it is. Removable cloth cover for washing, removable back
and
> bottom cushion for washing or to shrink just that last inch,
etc. I
> love them.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 11:18:34
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
The AFC range is plus or
minus 30. 50% of 30=15.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Cc: "Team3s"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, May 26, 2002 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run
550cc injectors?
> You sure, I thought that would be 25%.
>
> On Sun, 26 May 2002, Dave and Becky Trent wrote:
>
> >
Sorry, that would be 50% of the available adjustment on the AFC. If
I
> > recall, that equates to ~15% of the actual MAF signal.
>
>
> > Regards,
> > DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:30:37
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Well PCA, as compared to NASA or
something, is probably a PITA. Since
it was my first three DE's then I
never saw a difference. The PCA at
Heartland Park (GPL region I think)
mandated a fire extinguisher in the
car. My region did not mandate this
but on my rollbar I had on anyway
(easy to mount) so I did not have a problem
with it.
I have not run with the BMW or Quattro or Subaru guys so I don't
know
what else is out there. Just ask the group in charge that you want
to
run with and sometimes they will let you squeak by without a race
seat
or with a motorcycle helmet or something crazy sometimes. Just be
nice
and ask way ahead of time instead of in Pit lane when you are going
out.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:07
The PCA is
a PITA ---- they seem to be the most restrictive of the
sanctioning
organizations. They were talking of [ I don't think they
actually did it ]
changing the helmet requirement to Snell 2000 about
a year ago which means
you would have to go out and buy a new $300
helmet to run their events !!!!
Most require Snell 90 or 95 although the
Snell 90 is starting to
fade.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 10:54:56
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: I'm Back!
Sorry guys but for about a week and a half my internet
has been dead, so I
just got it all running again and was greeted by 1028 new
messages! Woohoo.
Anyway here's an update on my 3000gt. Installed my Home
Depot MBC. With the
mbc fully closed I'm getting 5 psi of boost across the
entire band. (MBC is
not connected to solenoid, its running itself) However,
with the mbc fully
open I'm only hitting 9 psi of boost. (Which is still much
better than the
~7 psi spike I had at stock settings) I tried taking off the
waste gate
hoses, and I blocked them up so the waste gates wouldn't open.
Still only
producing 9 psi as I feared. So here's what I believe is the
problem, either
the turbos are very screwed up and not able to flow well
(previous owner
blew up the rear turbo and shot about a quart of oil through
the intake
piping, and when the shop installed a new turbo they neglected to
clean out
any of the oil, so it is very possible there is oil gunked up all
over my
turbos, however I personally pulled all the piping and cleaned it out
by
hand.) OR there is a massive leak somewhere in my intake piping,
I'm
beginning to believe this leak is the BOV at about 3500 rpm if I really
mash
the throttle in my car makes a "wookie" noise, kind of a strange
high
pitched gurgle. Also if I let off the throttle around 1200 rpm my bov
makes
a really high pitched doorbell chime noise. So I'm pretty sure it is
the
BOV, can anyone think of some other reason I'm only making 9
psi?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#852
***************************************