Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, May 26
2002 Volume 01 : Number
851
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 May 2002 07:43:28 -0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Thanks for all the
input. I was a little discouraged when I saw a web page
that said the
most the SAFC could run was 450 injectors. Now I can't wait
to get my
hands on one.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 11:57:21
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
snap-a-timing-belt? (was interferance motor)
Team-
Out of
curiosity, how many of us that lost timing belts have kept our car
within the
60K service interval? Are there many other things that can cause
this which I
should be checking for? My car's due for its 60K service now
and I'm just
hoping the shop doesn't do anything dumb (forget to tighten
something here or
there) and make me lose valves etc. I suppose I'm pretty
paranoid. It comes
from taking my car to dealers that throw plugs in without
gapping them and
tune-up shops that get a hard-on out of slicing your
radiator hose so that
they can charge you for a new one. Not to mention
installing wiper blades
wrong and managing to put scratches all over my
beautiful windshield. Because
of my experiences, I try to be a hardcore
DIYer (own the FSM and all) but on
my "east coast rusty" stealth it's pretty
difficult to work without shop
tools. Plus, as a college student supporting
myself I don't have time to keep
tinkering around with my car.
Maybe a 2nd part to my dilemma would be:
among the listen good guys
vendors/dealers, San Rafael Mitsubishi and Wynn's
Motors are the closest
ones. Any clue on which of these guys I should trust
more? I'd rather go
with someone that we know rather than give up, throw my
hands down, and
drive to the mitsu dealer that's 3 miles away. Any advice
would help.
Thanks!
Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 12:05:02
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
follow-up: snap-a-timing-belt? (was interferance motor)
. . . and here's
why you need to change your oil by yourself:
my friend took his toyota
mr2 in to some jiffy lube. they forgot to tighten
the drain plug fully. he
let his gf drive it (just his luck that she wasn't
watching the oil pressure
guage). so she drove this mr2 with no oil in it.
:\ 'nuff said.
oh
yeah, and just like any tune-up shop, he signed a release that
basically
states "You authorize this shop to damage, destroy,
reverse-engineer, and
steal your car's parts without your
consent"
when I take my car to an oil change place, I spend more time
checking for
leaks and retorquing than it takes me to change the damn oil
myself!
Riyan
1993 stealth rt/tt
my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 14:14:27
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
Dave sez:
>The advantage coming
off the turns is a no brainer, but turn-in and
>especially mid turn
perfomance in my car was in the rain was freightning.
>At one point while
following a slow M3 at a conservative pace, at mid turn
>my tail proceeds
to come around while holding steady throttle. I steer in
>every
direction trying to get hooked up before running out of track.
She
>finally hooked up in the marbles a few feet from the edge of the
track.
>Very unnerving. Rain driving comments in our cars would be
appreciated.
>
Geez, Dave, I pray for rain at every event, because the
car sticks like glue and I can lap everybody. When it rains, I put on the street
Michelin Pilots.
Must be your tires.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 15:40:24
EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Interferance Motor! (OT)
You know, I was thinking just the day before
the belt broke on my RT.....
"Gee this thing has 122K miles on it. I
should get it in the shop this week
and get that stupid belt replaced before
something bad happens." (sigh) Had
I only known how bad BAD
would have been.
I want my baby back! I saw it the other
day. God it looks pathetic with
nothing in the engine
compartment. The wires and hoses going nowhere; and
the transmission
sitting on the floor, (brand new automatic one too still
gleaming and
screaming "I'm new too").
Now the baby sits on the rack going really
fast... nowhere. Remembering the
days of 150+ on I-5, not really
appreciating the technology and the wonder of
my baby. Enjoying in its
performance and constantly changing personality the
faster we went. My
baby's ever increasing plea and hunger for "more please,
please may I have
some more" as I edged the throttle just a little more
towards the floor and
watched the needle climb, knowning the attititude of
the car was changing
automatically the faster "we" (woman and machine in a
loving embrace") went,
the angle of attack changing on the rear wing ever so
slightly, and my baby
thinking and sensing the changes in the road as we went
along.
Then reality would kick in and we would slow down. We would again
join the
masses and attempt to blend in, me and my teal blue RT.
We
will run again. This time I will have more respect for my
baby.
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 15:44:08
EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
snap-a-timing-belt? (was interferance motor)
-
--part1_33.27909d39.2a214388_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Ryan:
If you
are in the San Rafael area, I only had Mt. Tam Motors in San Rafael
work on
my car while I lived there. Their number is (415) 455-9113. Talk to
Paul and tell him Merrisa sent you. He knows my car well. I just
wish my
baby was at his shop right now, but I am living in San Jose now and
where my
baby died made it unfeasable to get it to him.
If you are at
60K now get that belt replaced ASAP.
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 13:16:38
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Japan CAPS available on Team3S website!
We now have the full,
5-CD set of Japan CAPS available on the Team3S
website! MANY thanks are
due to Team3S member Oleg Resnick, who sent me the
CD's all the way from
Latvia (at his expense)! It will not be available to
the public - this
will be available to Team3S members ONLY. If you are
interested, let me
give you the system requirements for installing this
program:
1)
You must have MS Internet Explorer installed on your computer to
download it
without "glitches". Netscape is a non world-standard browser,
and has a
nasty habit of downloading binaries as text files, and adding it's
own
codes. In other words, in Netscape, the files are treated as
ASCII
instead of BINARY, and don't unzip properly. Netscape will NOT
work, unless
you're a geek and know how to tweak these Netscape
settings. I don't know
how, so don't ask.
2) You will need
the latest versions of WinZip *and* WinRAR to de-compress
the files.
Get the programs at
www.winzip.com and
http://rarsoft.com/.
Since some of the image
files were HUGE, I had to use WinRAR for a few of
them to help keep file
sizes down, since WinZip didn't compress them enough.
3) You will
need a lot of free space on your hard drive. The total file
sizes of
all 5 CDs on our site is 422 MB. I suggest that you download the
CDs
one at a time, decompress the files, and burn them to your own
CDs.
4) Obviously, you will need an high-speed connection (DSL or
cable) to
download the files. "Don't even think about it" on a 56k
connection. Even
with perfect network conditions, at 56k it would take
close to 50 *hours* to
download all the files.
- -:-
The only way
to get Japan CAPS is to email me, and I will send instructions
and the
location of the files to you privately. We will *not* be publishing
the
information on a web page, simply because of the huge file sizes.
We
don't want to tie up our server with non-members all over the
world
downloading these files. And we expect that you will keep the
location of
the files confidential.
I *may* make the files available
on a single CD (in compressed form, just
like it is on our website).
I'm still debating whether or not I want the
hassle. Probably available
at around $9-10, or whatever it costs me in
time, materials and
postage. You'll still have to decompress the files for
burning on to
individual CD's so that you can install the program. I'll see
how many
people want JCAPS.
One final note: I have not used or installed the
Japanese CAPS program. It
will be up to whoever downloads the program
first to give us feedback about
how it installed, and any hints.
Hopefully, Oleg can give us some
additional
information...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 13:28:47
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Euro CAPS available on Team3S website!
We now have the European
version of CAPS available on the Team3S website!
MANY thanks are due to
Team3S member Oleg Resnick, who sent me the CD's all
the way from Latvia (at
his expense)! It will not be available to the
public - this will be
available to Team3S members ONLY. If you are
interested, let me give
you the system requirements for installing this
program:
1) You
must have MS Internet Explorer installed on your computer to
download it
without "glitches". Netscape is a non world-standard browser,
and has a
nasty habit of downloading binaries as text files, and adding it's
own
codes. In other words, in Netscape, the files are treated as
ASCII
instead of BINARY, and don't unzip properly. Netscape will NOT
work, unless
you're a geek and know how to tweak these Netscape
settings. I don't know
how, so don't ask.
2) You will need
the latest versions of WinZip *and* WinRAR to de-compress
the files.
Get the programs at
www.winzip.com and
http://rarsoft.com/.
Since some of the image
files were HUGE, I had to use WinRAR for a few of
them to help keep file
sizes down, since WinZip didn't compress them enough.
3) You will
need 130 MB of free space on your hard drive, which will
require 483 MB when
it is decompressed. I suggest that you download all the
files,
decompress them, and burn them to your own CD.
4) Obviously, you
will need an high-speed connection (DSL or cable) to
download the
files. "Don't even think about it" on a 56k connection. Even
with
perfect network conditions, at 56k it would take close to 12 *hours*
to
download all the files.
- -:-
The only way to get Euro CAPS is
to email me, and I will send instructions
and the location of the files to
you privately. We will *not* be publishing
the information on a web
page right now, although we may at some time in the
future. I have not
used or installed the Euro CAPS program, so it will be
up to whoever
downloads the program first to give us feedback about how it
installed, and
any hints. Hopefully, Oleg can help us out, if
necessary...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 13:48:13
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: 60k
Service - Bay Area (was Re: Team3S: snap-a-timing-belt?...)
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
-
-----------------snip-------------->
> Maybe a 2nd part to my dilemma
would be: among the listed good guys
vendors/dealers, San Rafael Mitsubishi
and Wynn's Motors are the closest
ones. Any clue on which of these guys I
should trust more? I'd rather go
with someone that we know rather than give
up, throw my hands down, and
drive to the mitsu dealer that's 3 miles away.
Any advice would help.
> Thanks!
> Riyan
> 1993 stealth
rt/tt
- ---------------------------------->
Rick Pierce has used
SRMitsu for service, with great results. He also
negotiated our Team3S
discount. I only used them to order some parts, which
came quickly and
at a great price. I've used Wynn's for clutch work and
alignment and
there is no better mechanic anywhere than Willie. (He worked
for Rolls Royce
for years, and is meticulous!). But in the case of a timing
belt, I'd
have to lean towards a dealer, simply because of their access to
our manuals
and specific tools for doing the 60k service. Either way, you
couldn't
go wrong, IMO...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 16:53:02
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
I have a 94
VR-4.
I ran 13.2 with the stock car but modded engine and RPS MAX clutch
from AAM and the boost turned up past 1.1 bar on the AVC-R.
Well I
learned that our 9b turbos SUCK... They dropped off at about 4500-5000 RPMS to
9psi.
Here is the delema I have $3000 right now to make the car as fast
as possible, ultimatly making it a 700hp car. I would like some suggestions from
the post or atleast some reasurance that what I have choosen would be proper.
GT Pro 357 turbos - they are supposed to be larger than 17G price $2100-2500
Can some one comment on the turbos or recommend something else? I can get 15G
turbos for $1800 and I keep my stock ones.
RC 550 injectors- $400 for set of
six from importpoweronline.com
Although I heard they are not good and will
idle like crap. Can some one comment on this?
Walbro 255LPH High Pressure
Fuel Pump with Kit (new filter screen-tube rubber etc) $105.
And ofcourse
SAFC.
This should all cost me arround $3000.
I plan to do the install
my self on all the parts, since this parts are direct replacements. If they are
not direct replacement please let me know.
Here are the mods to my car
right now:
I have a Stage 3 motor capable of supporting over 1200 HP from
AAM; crowl Rods, JE Piston, Ferraro Valves, Stage 3 Polishing to the heads,
Boared Block, the block is blueprited and balanced, Gutted Precats, RPS Max
Clutch "Stage 3", Gutted Precats, AVC-R Boost Controller set to 14-17psi, Accel
wires, pugs set to .34 and an intake. Everything else is stock.
I pretty
much want your advice with choosing the parts.
Thank you, for the
responces.
Roman G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 13:56:30
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
60k Service - Bay Area (was Re: Team3S: snap-a-timing-belt?...)
I
actually only dealt with them for Parts - Mike the Parts Manager seems
really
willing to work with us.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob
Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<
Team3S@Team3S.com>
Cc: "Riyan
Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Sent: Saturday, May
25, 2002 1:48 PM
Subject: 60k Service - Bay Area (was Re: Team3S:
snap-a-timing-belt?...)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
>
-----------------snip-------------->
> > Maybe a 2nd part to my
dilemma would be: among the listed good guys
> vendors/dealers, San Rafael
Mitsubishi and Wynn's Motors are the closest
> ones. Any clue on which of
these guys I should trust more? I'd rather go
> with someone that we know
rather than give up, throw my hands down, and
> drive to the mitsu dealer
that's 3 miles away. Any advice would help.
> > Thanks!
> >
Riyan
> > 1993 stealth rt/tt
>
---------------------------------->
>
> Rick Pierce has used
SRMitsu for service, with great results. He also
> negotiated our
Team3S discount. I only used them to order some parts,
which
>
came quickly and at a great price. I've used Wynn's for clutch work
and
> alignment and there is no better mechanic anywhere than Willie. (He
worked
> for Rolls Royce for years, and is meticulous!). But in the
case of a
timing
> belt, I'd have to lean towards a dealer, simply
because of their access to
> our manuals and specific tools for doing the
60k service. Either way, you
> couldn't go wrong,
IMO...
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 14:15:38
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Euro CAPS available on Team3S website!
BTW..., this is the
12/98 version of the Euro CAPS. It lists 3000GT as "
'93~", which I
assume means that it covers only second gen Stealth/3kGT. It
also has
listings for Colt, Lancer, Galant, and Eclipse (" '96~"), and a
whole bunch
of trucks, etc. Here's a photo of the CD label, which lists all
the
vehicles covered in the program:
www.Team3S.com/JCAPS/Volh30320/EuroCAPS98-sm.jpgBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 16:35:32
-0500
From: "Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Eibach pro-kit
Hello,
I have been considering getting the
pro-kit offered by Eibach, but I can't
really find any specific instructions
on how to install the springs. I was
wondering if anyone had complete
instructions and maybe diagrams to go along
with it. I have already
asked a local shop and they said that they don't
"mess" around with things of
that nature. Thanks for your time
Thanks again,
Brent
H.
96' Dodge Stealth (base)
K&N FIPK
Eibach pro-kit
(future)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 15:18:19
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Eibach pro-kit
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Hawkinson's" <
bhawkinson@norwaymi.com>
> I
have been considering getting the pro-kit offered by Eibach, but I
can't
really find any specific instructions on how to install the
springs. I was
wondering if anyone had complete instructions and maybe
diagrams to go along
with it. I have already asked a local shop and
they said that they don't
"mess" around with things of that nature.
Thanks for your time
> Thanks again,
> Brent H.
> 96' Dodge
Stealth (base)
- ------------------------->
I don't recall any
complete instructions ever being posted, but it's pretty
straightforward...,
almost. Eibach gives you only a couple of diagrams and
instructions on
how to trim the bump stop grommets. They make different
models - for
the Base model, use Pro Kit Part #2813.140. You'll have to
elongate the
holes for the rears so you can get the car back to spec camber.
We had
several posts on it a couple of years ago (~July, 2000), so dig them
out of
our Archives by using the Search Page. Try this for your
search
entry:
Eibach +nightmare
The 'nightmare' was that if the
shop is not aware of how the bolts are on
there, they use a wrench on the
back of the bolts (which are actually
adjustment cams) and they ruin them(!)
and the bolts must be replaced. I
even used a dealer (who should have
known better) and they trashed them!
They're only a couple of bucks each, but
it'll cost you a couple more days
at the shop while they are shipped.
Make sure if that happens, you insist
on having the original bolts returned
to you. If they are ruined, refuse to
pay for them.
I got lots
of help with this from member Ron Thomson whose post is in
the
Archives. Here's the diagram he sent:
www.Team3S.com/Images/StealthEibachInstall.gif
The diagram indicates
elongating both fronts and rears, but I think we only
had to elongate the
rear holes. The holes have to be made longer
laterally (outward) about 1/8"
to get back to spec. One more little
trick that we ended up doing: the
rears are installed in the new holes,
approximate alignment is set and then
a circle is marked around the
washers. They are then UNinstalled and the
washers are spot welded into
place, to prevent them from slipping (and
requiring frequent re-alignment) in
the future. Then they are installed
again. Sounds tougher than it
is... But
still a PITA.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 16:14:29
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Lifter Tick and Tranny Updates
Just to let people know who
are trying to clear up lifter tick, I think I
might have found a
solution. I have been using really cheap 5w30 regular
oil and a quart
of ATF in my oil changes and have been changing it every 500
miles (on my 3rd
cycle). It seems to be clearing up and instead of having
ticking all
the time, sometimes I have none at all. I have also just been
using the
cheapest filter they had at autozone instead of the penzoil one
that was in
there. That's when I noticed the biggest difference, maybe
penzoil
filter is not good for our cars??? I'll let you guys know if I
ever
cure it.
And I got the tranny swapped out finally (It was the
"Emergency
Tranny......" post about 2 weeks back. It was a used one
with 78k miles,
but it runs great and better than when I first got the
car. Set me back
$1,500 but that's better than buying another whole
car.
The shop's name is "Arizona Import Specialists" and anyone in
Arizona
looking for a great shop to do some work should call them up.
They are
great, the owner's name is Joel and their number is
480-966-5913. Tell him
Erik with the stealth sent you, I am going to
see if he will offer a
discount to us AZ 3/S owners.
- -Erik
'91
Stealth - Back on the road again!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:06:18
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
Thank you
on that suggestion.
How much am I looking at for the ARC2? Will I be able to
tune it my self? I thought that SAFC can tune 720 injectors.
The reason for
choosing RC 550 injectors is the price that I can get them for right now $400
set of 6. How much will it cost me for the 720 injectors and which brands should
I use?
Are RC injectors not good? I heard negative things about them from
AAM, or are they just trying to push other injectors because they don't carry
RC?
Is the Walbro 255 lph good enough?
More than likely I will go
with DR-650 from "Dynamic Racing" They sell for $2099 with core exchange. Will
they provide enough air for about 700hp?
I would like to hear more
responces from the list so I can do this right once.
Thank you so much
John.
"John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>I would get the fuel system right the first time. Get a set of
720 injectors
>and an ARC2. Don't mess around with the AFC if you are
trying to make 700hp.
>You are going to run out of fuel badly. It won't
control 720s...and 550s are
>going to be way too small. In addition you
will be limiting your power by
>running the factory MAS. Do the ARC2 and
720s first...run some 12s and save
>some more money for a set or 357s or a
set of DR-650s.
>
>John Paul Dauber
>91 VR-4 (for
sale)
>
>> I have a 94 VR-4.
>>
>> I ran 13.2
with the stock car but modded engine and RPS MAX clutch from
>AAM and the
boost turned up past 1.1 bar on the AVC-R.
>>
>> Well I
learned that our 9b turbos SUCK... They dropped off at about
>4500-5000
RPMS to 9psi.
>>
>> Here is the delema I have $3000 right now
to make the car as fast as
>possible, ultimatly making it a 700hp car. I
would like some suggestions
>from the post or atleast some reasurance that
what I have choosen would be
>proper.
>> GT Pro 357 turbos - they
are supposed to be larger than 17G price
>$2100-2500 Can some one comment
on the turbos or recommend something else? I
>can get 15G turbos for $1800
and I keep my stock ones.
>> RC 550 injectors- $400 for set of six from
importpoweronline.com
>> Although I heard they are not good and will
idle like crap. Can some one
>comment on this?
>> Walbro 255LPH
High Pressure Fuel Pump with Kit (new filter screen-tube
>rubber etc)
$105.
>> And ofcourse SAFC.
>>
>> This should all
cost me arround $3000.
>> I plan to do the install my self on all the
parts, since this parts are
>direct replacements. If they are not direct
replacement please let me know.
>>
>> Here are the mods to my
car right now:
>>
>> I have a Stage 3 motor capable of
supporting over 1200 HP from AAM; crowl
>Rods, JE Piston, Ferraro Valves,
Stage 3 Polishing to the heads, Boared
>Block, the block is blueprited and
balanced, Gutted Precats, RPS Max Clutch
>"Stage 3", Gutted Precats, AVC-R
Boost Controller set to 14-17psi, Accel
>wires, pugs set to .34 and an
intake. Everything else is stock.
>>
>> I pretty much want
your advice with choosing the parts.
>> Thank you, for the
responces.
>>
>> Roman G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:06:18
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
Thank you
on that suggestion.
How much am I looking at for the ARC2? Will I be able to
tune it my self? I thought that SAFC can tune 720 injectors.
The reason for
choosing RC 550 injectors is the price that I can get them for right now $400
set of 6. How much will it cost me for the 720 injectors and which brands should
I use?
Are RC injectors not good? I heard negative things about them from
AAM, or are they just trying to push other injectors because they don't carry
RC?
Is the Walbro 255 lph good enough?
More than likely I will go
with DR-650 from "Dynamic Racing" They sell for $2099 with core exchange. Will
they provide enough air for about 700hp?
I would like to hear more
responces from the list so I can do this right once.
Thank you so much
John.
"John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>I would get the fuel system right the first time. Get a set of
720 injectors
>and an ARC2. Don't mess around with the AFC if you are
trying to make 700hp.
>You are going to run out of fuel badly. It won't
control 720s...and 550s are
>going to be way too small. In addition you
will be limiting your power by
>running the factory MAS. Do the ARC2 and
720s first...run some 12s and save
>some more money for a set or 357s or a
set of DR-650s.
>
>John Paul Dauber
>91 VR-4 (for
sale)
>
>> I have a 94 VR-4.
>>
>> I ran 13.2
with the stock car but modded engine and RPS MAX clutch from
>AAM and the
boost turned up past 1.1 bar on the AVC-R.
>>
>> Well I
learned that our 9b turbos SUCK... They dropped off at about
>4500-5000
RPMS to 9psi.
>>
>> Here is the delema I have $3000 right now
to make the car as fast as
>possible, ultimatly making it a 700hp car. I
would like some suggestions
>from the post or atleast some reasurance that
what I have choosen would be
>proper.
>> GT Pro 357 turbos - they
are supposed to be larger than 17G price
>$2100-2500 Can some one comment
on the turbos or recommend something else? I
>can get 15G turbos for $1800
and I keep my stock ones.
>> RC 550 injectors- $400 for set of six from
importpoweronline.com
>> Although I heard they are not good and will
idle like crap. Can some one
>comment on this?
>> Walbro 255LPH
High Pressure Fuel Pump with Kit (new filter screen-tube
>rubber etc)
$105.
>> And ofcourse SAFC.
>>
>> This should all
cost me arround $3000.
>> I plan to do the install my self on all the
parts, since this parts are
>direct replacements. If they are not direct
replacement please let me know.
>>
>> Here are the mods to my
car right now:
>>
>> I have a Stage 3 motor capable of
supporting over 1200 HP from AAM; crowl
>Rods, JE Piston, Ferraro Valves,
Stage 3 Polishing to the heads, Boared
>Block, the block is blueprited and
balanced, Gutted Precats, RPS Max Clutch
>"Stage 3", Gutted Precats, AVC-R
Boost Controller set to 14-17psi, Accel
>wires, pugs set to .34 and an
intake. Everything else is stock.
>>
>> I pretty much want
your advice with choosing the parts.
>> Thank you, for the
responces.
>>
>> Roman G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 17:15:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
You need more than ARC2 for
700Hp, youre gonna wanna go full management.
Youve chosen a lofty
goal..720cc injectors for sure.
On Sat, 25 May 2002, Roman
wrote:
> Thank you on that suggestion.
> How much am I looking
at for the ARC2? Will I be able to tune it my self? I thought that SAFC can tune
720 injectors.
> The reason for choosing RC 550 injectors is the price
that I can get them for right now $400 set of 6. How much will it cost me for
the 720 injectors and which brands should I use?
> Are RC injectors not
good? I heard negative things about them from AAM, or are they just trying to
push other injectors because they don't carry RC?
>
> Is the Walbro
255 lph good enough?
> More than likely I will go with DR-650 from
"Dynamic Racing" They sell for $2099 with core exchange. Will they provide
enough air for about 700hp?
>
> I would like to hear more responces
from the list so I can do this right once.
>
> Thank you so much
John.
>
>
> "John Paul Dauber" <
jpdauber@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>
> >I would get the fuel system right the first time.
Get a set of 720 injectors
> >and an ARC2. Don't mess around with the
AFC if you are trying to make 700hp.
> >You are going to run out of
fuel badly. It won't control 720s...and 550s are
> >going to be way too
small. In addition you will be limiting your power by
> >running the
factory MAS. Do the ARC2 and 720s first...run some 12s and save
> >some
more money for a set or 357s or a set of DR-650s.
> >
> >John
Paul Dauber
> >91 VR-4 (for sale)
> >
> >> I have
a 94 VR-4.
> >>
> >> I ran 13.2 with the stock car but
modded engine and RPS MAX clutch from
> >AAM and the boost turned up
past 1.1 bar on the AVC-R.
> >>
> >> Well I learned that
our 9b turbos SUCK... They dropped off at about
> >4500-5000 RPMS to
9psi.
> >>
> >> Here is the delema I have $3000 right
now to make the car as fast as
> >possible, ultimatly making it a 700hp
car. I would like some suggestions
> >from the post or atleast some
reasurance that what I have choosen would be
> >proper.
>
>> GT Pro 357 turbos - they are supposed to be larger than 17G
price
> >$2100-2500 Can some one comment on the turbos or recommend
something else? I
> >can get 15G turbos for $1800 and I keep my stock
ones.
> >> RC 550 injectors- $400 for set of six from
importpoweronline.com
> >> Although I heard they are not good and
will idle like crap. Can some one
> >comment on this?
> >>
Walbro 255LPH High Pressure Fuel Pump with Kit (new filter screen-tube
>
>rubber etc) $105.
> >> And ofcourse SAFC.
>
>>
> >> This should all cost me arround $3000.
>
>> I plan to do the install my self on all the parts, since this parts
are
> >direct replacements. If they are not direct replacement please
let me know.
> >>
> >> Here are the mods to my car right
now:
> >>
> >> I have a Stage 3 motor capable of
supporting over 1200 HP from AAM; crowl
> >Rods, JE Piston, Ferraro
Valves, Stage 3 Polishing to the heads, Boared
> >Block, the block is
blueprited and balanced, Gutted Precats, RPS Max Clutch
> >"Stage 3",
Gutted Precats, AVC-R Boost Controller set to 14-17psi, Accel
> >wires,
pugs set to .34 and an intake. Everything else is stock.
>
>>
> >> I pretty much want your advice with choosing the
parts.
> >> Thank you, for the responces.
> >>
>
>> Roman G
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:08:09
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help in Making of 700 HP VR-4.
> You need more than ARC2 for
700Hp, youre
> gonna wanna go full management.
> Youve chosen a
lofty goal..720cc injectors for sure.
I'd agree... The ARC2 is
decent, but would need quite a bit of help to get
you to 700HP. On a
'94 VR4 you don't have any datalogging capability at
this point, that's
something you'll need to solve to achieve a 700HP goal
with any level of
repeatability.
I know I've been hawking it a lot lately, but I'd go with
the EFI Systems
PMS instead. You get much more tweakability than
available on the ARC2, you
get datalogging of the important engine variables
(A/F ratio, airflow,
injector pulsewidth, RPM, boost pressure, timing
advance, etc.) and full
control over fuel and timing in much more granular
fashion than you can
achieve with the ARC2.
The ARC2 is an overpriced
toy compared to the PMS. The only benefit it has
over the PMS is the
hotwire airflow sensor, which you could probably
implement on the PMS later
with not much hassle.
Beyond the PMS you've got devices like Haltech,
Autronic, Motec, etc. Not
easy to program, or easy to hook up.
The AEM EMS sounds like it could be a
long wait until it is working properly
(it has been vaporware for quite a
while now), although supposedly they are
looking for a fairly stock 3/S in
southern California for testing (3 weeks
without your car and you get a EMS
for "wholesale").
VPC/AFC is also a
possibility but then you are back to not having logging
for your
'94.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:34:00
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Yes. I installed
the 550's, wired the AFC, turned down the MAF signal ~50%
and it fired right
up and ran fine. I followed up by using a volt meter on
the O2 sensor
and dialed in. Runs like a champ. It's not uncommon to make
a
slight re-adjustment in the winter.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
To: <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Sent: Saturday,
May 25, 2002 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc
injectors?
> Dave:
>
> You tuned it
yourself?
>
> Best,
>
> SJ
>
3Si#110
>
> On Sat, 25 May 2002 07:23:23 -0500 "Dave and Becky
Trent"
> <
bdtrent@netzero.net> writes:
>
> Brian is absolutely right. I've been running the old analog AFC
for
> > 3 years
> > with 550's. I'm still amazed that
people spend so much time and
> > effort with
> > HKS.
It takes about 5min. to tune the AFC.
> >
> > Regards,
>
> DaveT/92TT
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
> To: "'dakken'" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
"Team3S"
> > <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 7:09 PM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Can
the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
> >
> >
> > >
Absolutely it can work. Here's a copy of a post I made on this
>
> subject a
> > > little while ago:
> > >
>
> > I just put in bigger injectors and an S-AFC in my VR-4, and so
sat
> > down to
> > > do some pre-install math. At first I
tried the intuitive
> > > New_Injector_Size/Old_Injector_Size
equation, but as I played with
> > it, it
> > > just didn't
seem right. I played around, and decided that when
> >
determing
> > the
> > > amount of correction the S-AFC
should give to compensate for new
> > injectors,
> > > the
equation looks like this:
> > >
> > > c = Correction
Percentage
> > > i = New Injector Size
> > >
>
> > i + ci = 360
> > >
> > > Plug in i for your
new injectors, and then solve for c. This will
> > the the
> >
> "mathematically perfect" setting for the S-AFC...in real life, of
>
> course,
> > > it'll need tweaking. A few examples:
> >
>
> > >
> > > 450s:
> > > 450 + (c)450 =
360
> > > 1 + c = 360/450
> > > c = .8 - 1
> >
> c = -.2 = -20%
> > >
> > > 550s:
> > >
550 + (c)550 = 360
> > > 1 + c = 360/550
> > > c = .66 -
1
> > > c = -.33 = -33%
> > >
> > >
720s:
> > > 720 + (c)720 = 360
> > > 1 + c =
360/720
> > > c = .5 - 1
> > > c = -.5 = -50%
>
> >
> > > These calculations for 450s and 550s seem to mesh
with the
> > antecdotal
> > > evidence I've seen. I'm
running 450s in my car right now, and
> > after some
> > >
tweaking and tuning I've got mine set at about -21% across the
> >
board. I've
> > > also seen posts from a few people running 550s
with the S-AFC, and
> > they
> > all
> > > seem to
have around -33% as their settings.
> > >
> > > The
addage of "you can't increase injector size more than 50%"
> > seems
to
> > come
> > > from doing the math the wrong way.
When you install bigger
> > injectors, you
> > > actually
need the S-AFC to adjust the airflow DOWN, not up,
> > because of
the
> > > higher flow rate of the new injectors. So actually
the rule
> > should be
> > "your
> > > original
injectors must be at least 50% the size of your new
> >
injectors".
> > >
> > > The S-AFC is a great little box,
and I hate to see it's
> > capabilities sold
> > >
short.
> > >
> > > - Brian
> > >
>
> >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
> From: dakken [mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
> > > > Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2002 4:52 PM
> > > > To: Team3S
> > >
> Subject: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Simple enough question.
The SAFC can change the air signal
> > > > to the ECU by
>
> > > +-50%. Stock 360cc injectors plus 50% would be 540cc.
That
> > > > would be 10cc
> > > > more than what
the SAFC can theoretically control but
> > > > supposedly the ECU
can
> > > > handle injectors 10% higher than stock or 396cc
injectors.
> > > > Add 50% and that
> > > > would
equal 594cc.
> > > >
> > > > Would there be any
negative affects to trying this (Besides
> > running 2%
> >
> > rich)?
> > > >
> > > > Has anyone tried
this yet?
> > > >
> > > > (Yes I know about the
ARC2. I would rather use the SAFC
> > > > because of
its
> > > > features.)
> > > >
> > >
>
> > > > Doug
> > > > 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 18:46:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
- -50%?
Sounds
rather lean..
On Sat, 25 May 2002, Dave and Becky Trent
wrote:
> Yes. I installed the 550's, wired the AFC, turned down
the MAF signal ~50%
> and it fired right up and ran fine. I followed
up by using a volt meter on
> the O2 sensor and dialed in. Runs like
a champ. It's not uncommon to make
> a slight re-adjustment in the
winter.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:42:08
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
> -50%?
>
> Sounds rather lean..
Sounds really lean... I'm around -32%
to -24% on the PMS with 550's.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 19:52:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Ya..bout where I have
the celica too...it runs about 12.5:1 at WOT. Lean
enough for
me.
On Sat, 25 May 2002, Matt Jannusch wrote:
> >
-50%?
> >
> > Sounds rather lean..
>
> Sounds
really lean... I'm around -32% to -24% on the PMS with 550's.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 22:55:40
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
Guys, (all other guys), is it fun to drive
on a track in the rain? The only
time I went it started to rain a little
couple times, so I rolled the
windows up. But the track watchers were
unhappy when I did that. It is okay
to drive with the windows up in the
rain, or do we have to have them down
at all times?
Another thing. I
hated how my car handled in the snow and on ice. It plows
straight like a
bulldozer and has no traction whatsoever. But it is perfect
on dry asphalt.
It must be the tires that make all the difference. Rich
likes wet track but
Dave T does not.
Philip
At 15:14 5/25/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>Geez, Dave, I pray for rain at every event, because the car sticks
like
>glue and I can lap everybody. When it rains, I put on the street
Michelin
>Pilots.
>Must be your tires.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 20:10:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Open Track Rain Report
You wont get much water in the car
while moving..
And yes, its a freakin blast.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/celicas/gt4-sp.zipOn
Sat, 25 May 2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> Guys, (all other guys),
is it fun to drive on a track in the rain? The only
> time I went it
started to rain a little couple times, so I rolled the
> windows up. But
the track watchers were unhappy when I did that. It is okay
> to drive
with the windows up in the rain, or do we have to have them down
> at all
times?
>
> Another thing. I hated how my car handled in the snow
and on ice. It plows
> straight like a bulldozer and has no traction
whatsoever. But it is perfect
> on dry asphalt. It must be the tires that
make all the difference. Rich
> likes wet track but Dave T does
not.
>
> Philip
>
> At 15:14 5/25/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> >Geez, Dave, I pray for rain at every event, because the car
sticks like
> >glue and I can lap everybody. When it rains, I put on
the street Michelin
> >Pilots.
> >Must be your
tires.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 22:28:06
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Datalog comparison?
I've posted a log from the PMS to my
website:
http://mjannusch.home.attbi.com/run2.xlsIts
an Excel spreadsheet with the raw data and a graph.
Just wondering if my
timing numbers line up with what others have seen from
their loggers, or how
far off mine are. Probably OBD-II loggers would be
better since the TMO
logger timing data is a little funky
I'm seeing generally around 15-20
degrees of advance under full throttle. I
think it should be more
advance, but want to check with others.
If anyone wants to take a look it
is all there. About 260k in size.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 09:20:29
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DYNO #'s
there's an even better one here:
http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46592it's
uncorrected numbers, so the corrected numbers may be a little lower,
but ....
750 rwhp at 18 psi !!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday,
May 22, 2002 7:24 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: DYNO #'s
Here's a link to the supra guys and their dynos
....
http://vache.org/supra/turbos.htmIt
seems they all run a BSFC of below 0.4 !! Or how can we explain this
good
numbers ? 640hp @ 21 psi of boost.
I'm totally confused now. Are
these US-dyno ratings totally wrong ?
My measures are (crank) 467PS @
1.24 bars and 394PS @ 1.18 bars so far on
our dynos. This is WAY off the
517hp he claims at the wheels at 1.1 bar. The
Supras here are measured with
440hp crank @ 1.2 bars of boost.(stock
turbos). Also pretty off to the stock
Supras.
Any ideas ??
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 08:22:44
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run 550cc injectors?
Sorry, that would be 50%
of the available adjustment on the AFC. If I
recall, that equates to
~15% of the actual MAF signal.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Cc: "Team3s"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 25, 2002 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Can the Apexi SAFC run
550cc injectors?
> -50%?
>
> Sounds rather
lean..
>
> On Sat, 25 May 2002, Dave and Becky Trent
wrote:
>
> > Yes. I installed the 550's, wired the AFC,
turned down the MAF signal
~50%
> > and it fired right up and ran
fine. I followed up by using a volt meter
on
> > the O2 sensor
and dialed in. Runs like a champ. It's not uncommon
to
make
> > a slight re-adjustment in the winter.
>
>
> > Regards,
> > DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 08:41:43
-0500
From: "Dave and Becky Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sparco Seats
I've come across a set of new Sparco Evo or Pro 2000
(both fiberglass) seats
with brackets and shipping for $875 on ebay. I
know Darren has commented
favorably on his Evo seats. Anyone care to
comment before I pull
the
trigger?
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 09:35:02
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: was Open Track Rain Report, now handling/tires
Philip:
I'm
going to add my 2hp here and agree with Rich -- did I say that
out
loud? Oh the humanity... Anyway, it sounds like tires to
me. In fact,
tires can make a huge difference. I live here in
sunny, warm, sub
tropical Wisconsin (say it with me now --
WES-konnn-sin). In the winter,
I simply swap wheels and tires and use
Michelin XM+S's. Pass all the
soccer Mom's in their Navigator's and
Expeditions half in and out of the
ditches who think that 4wd button means
something more. Granted, we have
snow plows the size of my house up
here so they've really got a handle on
it when it snows (unlike Ohio where
you just shut the city down for
3/4"), but I remember one day the toughest
part was simply getting into
the car to drive home. It drove and
handled like a dream. SO, I'd say
tyres also. And at the track or
on the street, you're going to have to
back it down with the Z's or Yoko's or
whatever in the rain. Just the
nature of the tire and conditions.
I suppose you could take the M+S's to
the track if it rains.
;-)
Best,
SJ
> Another thing. I hated how my car handled
in the snow and on ice. It
> plows
> straight like a bulldozer and
has no traction whatsoever. But it is
> perfect
> on dry asphalt.
It must be the tires that make all the difference.
> Rich
> likes
wet track but Dave T does not.
>
> Philip
>
> At 15:14
5/25/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> >Geez, Dave, I pray for rain at every event, because the car
sticks
> like
> >glue and I can lap everybody. When it rains, I
put on the street
> Michelin
> >Pilots.
> >Must be
your tires.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
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#851
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