Hello

I have 3 new problems and 1 is solved:

1. Temperatur. When the car standig at RPM 700 it goes up to 15-2000 to keep the temp ok. Waterpump? Have changed the termostat.

2. Airbag. Have read about it at this site. My lamp goes out after 7 seconds and everything is ok. But it starts to glow after 2 more seconds. Have tested it and the Airbag in the Driving Wheel is under 12 V. Is it possible to open the contakt and use 5-56 to get kontakt?

3. My car has a paper that says that the engine is 210 kW. I think it only has 163 kW. Where kan i check this?

4. I have put the ECD in the owen and get the water out. Now the car goes fine.

By the way.
The car is from US and it has been standing i garage for nearly 2 years. Electrical problem by oxid (airbag)?

Hans

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:37:55 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AWD Trans internal Pic's

Alan92rttt,

Is this the 5-speed or the 6-speed tranny? Mr. Crabtree, what version
do you have? This looks like a 5-speed but I might be missing the
distinction between one gear and another. Ya might want to note what
car it came out of next time so we don't fill up the list with posts
back and forth getting that info from you.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: alan92rttt
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 17:00

If you ever eanted to see what the gears in a AWD transmission looked
like

http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-127F.JPG
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-128F.JPG
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-129F.JPG
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-130F.JPG

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:41:19 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem

Hi all,

I experienced a problem yesterday for the first time - my boost solenoid for
my Apexi AVCR was not functioning. I know this because the controller list
0.0% as the max value for the boost solenoid. It was functioning properly
since I bought it new in October and have all the settings set correctly.

I also noticed the problem again this morning. It went away yesterday for
apparently no reason at all. I stopped to check under the hood and made
sure the hoses were not crimped and all connections to the AVCR components
in the engine bay were connected. Nothing appeared to be worn or corroded.
I took it our for another run and the solenoid worked correctly again. I
have not yet checked the connections to the ECU. Could a loose wire there
cause this to happen?

Anyone ever experience this problem? Any thoughts on diagnosing?

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:55:14 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem

Hey Dave it sounds like the solenoid is sticking. When you have a chance
check you IC pipes for oil also pull the solenoid and try spraying a tiny
bit of electric motor cleaner (stuff used on RC cars) into the solenoid it
should help the problem

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Black, Dave (ICT) [SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:41 AM
> To: stealth@starnet.net; Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
>
> Hi all,
>
> I experienced a problem yesterday for the first time - my boost solenoid
> for
> my Apexi AVCR was not functioning. I know this because the controller
> list
> 0.0% as the max value for the boost solenoid. It was functioning properly
> since I bought it new in October and have all the settings set correctly.
>
> I also noticed the problem again this morning. It went away yesterday for
> apparently no reason at all. I stopped to check under the hood and made
> sure the hoses were not crimped and all connections to the AVCR components
> in the engine bay were connected. Nothing appeared to be worn or
> corroded.
> I took it our for another run and the solenoid worked correctly again. I
> have not yet checked the connections to the ECU. Could a loose wire there
> cause this to happen?
>
> Anyone ever experience this problem? Any thoughts on diagnosing?
>
> Dave 95VR4
> http://www.daveblack.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:08:34 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem

No but the oil has contaminants in it they can/will cause the solenoid to
stick, even with filters before the pressure sensor and solenoid this is why
APEX-i sells replacement parts.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike & Cathy [SMTP:micajoco@theofficenet.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:05 AM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
>
> What would the oil in the IC pipe indicate? I understood that oil in the
> IC
> pipe as to be a turbo leaking. I think my solenoid is acting as Dave's is
> and I see a small amount of oil around the IC pipe at the rear turbo.
> Would
> the solenoid valve cause this? Thanks Mike S 92 rt tt

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:41:12 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dodge Stealth 1991

1] Not sure what you're saying here ??? Is the temperature gauge reading low
and you have to step on the gas to get the gauge to read properly ???

2] It's difficult to check the airbag system [ SRS ] yourself. The manual does not
allow you to check the internal codes like you can on a check engine light. It may
be contacts but there are crash sensors, controllers and harnesses along with the
airbag to be checked ----- use extreme caution when working around the
airbag ---- If you have the battery connected and start working around the airbag
you can set it off. If the airbag goes off with you too close to it you could be killed.

3] The numbers given by the factory for power are at the flywheel or just the output
of the engine, when you measure the car on a dynamometer or using some other
means the power is measured at the wheels. As a result you have to take the loss
generated by the drivetrain into account.

        Jim Berry
==========================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans Hortin" <hanshortin@37.com>

> Hello
>
> I have 3 new problems and 1 is solved:
>
> 1. Temperatur. When the car standig at RPM 700 it goes up to 15-2000 to keep the temp ok. Waterpump? Have changed the termostat.
>
> 2. Airbag. Have read about it at this site. My lamp goes out after 7 seconds and everything is ok. But it starts to glow after 2
more seconds. Have tested it and the Airbag in the Driving Wheel is under 12 V. Is it possible to open the contakt and use 5-56 to
get kontakt?
>
> 3. My car has a paper that says that the engine is 210 kW. I think it only has 163 kW. Where kan i check this?
>
> 4. I have put the ECD in the owen and get the water out. Now the car goes fine.
>
> By the way.
> The car is from US and it has been standing i garage for nearly 2 years. Electrical problem by oxid (airbag)?
>
> Hans

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:39:55 -0500
From: "Omar" <omarx@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: JDM Exhaust

Hey, I'm new to the list. Just bought a beautiful 91 VR4. I've been
searching the past archives and just wanted to know, has anyone used the JIC
Magic Twin Spartan Bullet Exhaust for our cars. It looks like a nice
alternative to the ATR but it's a little more costly. Any thoughts

Omar
Black 91 VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:42:23 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dodge Stealth 1991

Two things can fix the SRS light.

1: Put the ignition key in and start the car. Turn the car off and take the
key out. Repeat step one 10 time and that should fix the problem.

2: Someone told me that sometimes you have to take the car to a Mitsubishi
dealer they have to do something. Not sure what.

Temperature: If the temp goes up and then you have raise the RPM's to 2000
to bring the temp down and you have replaced the thermostat. It could be few
things:

1: Antifreez is low (If antifreez was low, there is an indicator on the
dash)
2: Radiator needs a good flushing
3: Waterpump (How many miles on the car? If over 70K or 80K. Then the
waterpump and timing belt need replacing. It is not cheap but cheaper then
a new engine)

Rgds
Moe

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Hans Hortin" <hanshortin@37.com>; <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dodge Stealth 1991

> 1] Not sure what you're saying here ??? Is the temperature gauge reading
low
> and you have to step on the gas to get the gauge to read properly ???
>
> 2] It's difficult to check the airbag system [ SRS ] yourself. The manual
does not
> allow you to check the internal codes like you can on a check engine
light. It may
> be contacts but there are crash sensors, controllers and harnesses along
with the
> airbag to be checked ----- use extreme caution when working around the
> airbag ---- If you have the battery connected and start working around the
airbag
> you can set it off. If the airbag goes off with you too close to it you
could be killed.
>
> 3] The numbers given by the factory for power are at the flywheel or just
the output
> of the engine, when you measure the car on a dynamometer or using some
other
> means the power is measured at the wheels. As a result you have to take
the loss
> generated by the drivetrain into account.
>
>         Jim Berry
> ==========================================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hans Hortin" <hanshortin@37.com>
>
> > Hello
> >
> > I have 3 new problems and 1 is solved:
> >
> > 1. Temperatur. When the car standig at RPM 700 it goes up to 15-2000 to
keep the temp ok. Waterpump? Have changed the termostat.
> >
> > 2. Airbag. Have read about it at this site. My lamp goes out after 7
seconds and everything is ok. But it starts to glow after 2
> more seconds. Have tested it and the Airbag in the Driving Wheel is under
12 V. Is it possible to open the contakt and use 5-56 to
> get kontakt?
> >
> > 3. My car has a paper that says that the engine is 210 kW. I think it
only has 163 kW. Where kan i check this?
> >
> > 4. I have put the ECD in the owen and get the water out. Now the car
goes fine.
> >
> > By the way.
> > The car is from US and it has been standing i garage for nearly 2 years.
Electrical problem by oxid (airbag)?
> >
> > Hans

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:00:48 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Team3S: Long: Saga with speaker install, plugs & wires

I'm looking at putting a breather on the PCV and blocking off it's reuptake
to the intake. That'll show that pesky PCV...

My speaker project has turned into an almost week long tear apart. Pulled
the battery for the project, noticed that only one bolt was holding the
washer fluid bottle to the battery tray. Got it all fixed up including much
needed black paint to rusty tray and mount area.

I gutted the inside of the car to run wiring to an Infinity Basslink
subwoofer in the rear. Very interesting what one learns through thorough
disassembly. There are quite a few places where the wiring just seems to fit
in naturally to extra stays and clips that aren't already used. My car
probably weighs 10 pounds less too, after extracting all the pennies and
even a few other higher denominations of coin which the previous owner was
kind enough to leave under the carpeting for me. Beer money! Oh yeah, I
don't drink...

Talk about clean! Tear all the trim out and out comes another several pounds
of dust and dirt.

So the car has been apart since about Thursday of last week but I have
tested the install and I'm ready to reassemble. However, I want to do some
sound deadening. Any advice? Dynamat? Something similar but less expensive?
It would seem that a ton of road noise could be deadened by covering the
rear strut towers, bare metal area where passenger's foot compartment is
located, doors, and in the rear hatch area. Not that I can't just crank the
stereo now but I've always felt that there was a lot of road noise in our
cars. I took care of the wind noise by replacing the front hardware on the
sunroof - time to eliminate the road noise now.

I also ended up RE-installing the Motorola 3 watt booster/ car phone kit as
I was appalled at how the guy had slapped it in there. Some people take no
pride in their work. One of the components is the amp box, which they had
just stuck up inside under the right hand side quarter panel trim. And I was
wondering what the hell all that racket was... I repositioned that box up in
the space under the right rear seatbelt mount. Tighter than a nun now...

Keeping the rear seat out is a tempting proposition seeing as how I rarely
transport 2 foot tall people or children. But as it is, the rear seat seems
to be the most aesthetically pleasing sound deadening piece for the price.

Before changing spark plugs and ignition wires, I would feel surges under
acceleration, which I was originally contributed to my slipping clutch. Now
that the clutch is new, I noticed that the hesitation was still there
occasionally under hard acceleration whereas with the new plugs and wires
acceleration is much smoother. It was probably one or two of the old plugs
that were misfiring. Seems to me that a 60,000 mile spark plug maintenance
interval is stretching it. I'm pulling mine in 1,000 miles to inspect.

I have the photos and measurements together to setup on my website and will
do so once I have accomplished the reassembly.

Running power from the battery to the sub's amp in the rear, grounding to
the rear, splicing into the rear and door speaker wires at the amp under the
passenger's seat with an adjustable line output converter to RCA jacks, run
RCA patch cords to rear, and splice the remote turn-on to the rear of the
head unit were the basic steps.

I went with 10 gauge power wire, which is supposed to be sufficient for a
750 watt amp (at that length) instead of the 12 gauge recommended for the
200 watts of the sub's built-in amp.

Getting 4 gauge wire or whatever size necessary to the rear if one was to
reposition their battery would appear to be a major endeavor. Where does one
run those hot wires?

Better start working this morning instead of spewing to the list...

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
+formerly reasonable and prudent

on 5/20/02 5:35 AM, Darren Schilberg at dschilberg@pobox.com scribbled:

> Paul,
>
> Do not replace any hoses that have check valves. The hose off the top
> of the master brake cylinder, the PCV hose, etc.
>
> I have some pix if it helps. The engine of the Dodge Stealth on
> http://128bitencrypted.com/hosetechniques/images/before_after/3000gt_2k.
> jpg is a good high-res image. Not that one some hoses like the cruise
> control cables they used two zip ties. They should have used red and
> not black but this gives you an idea. I have pix of my engine too but
> have never finished the job yet.
>
> --Flash!

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:34:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Rayman <theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: My 3000 for sale

This is my daily driver, not raced.
Body is free from dings and paintwork is good.
Inside is very clean. Pictures at:
http://www.dfwdsm.org/pics/casey/

'92 Silver 3000GT

15g turbos
6-speed conversion
Blitz Turbo Timer
Borla Exhaust
Downpipe
K&N
Upgraded ignition coils and wires
2nd Gen front calipers/rotors
Goodridge braided brake lines
All new underhood rubber pieces(hoses, motormounts, etc)
New Clutch <5k miles
New factory adjustable shocks
18" Chrome 2nd gen wheels with good rubber
Clarion CD headunit and 75x4 JBL amp

Rebuilt engine 12k miles ago
140k miles on chassis
85k on '95 6-speed

2nd gen hood, front/rear bumpers, and skirt available
extra 3.1L 2nd gen(4-bolt) built shortblock available
Big red Porsche caliper kit can be installed also

14k for car
500 for bodywork
1500 for shortblock
1200 for Big Reds
I will consider offers or trades as well.

I want to sell everything together.
Bodywork, shortblock, and big reds will not be sold separately,
unless car sells and buyer does not want the extra pieces.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:00:52 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Long: Saga with speaker install, plugs & wires

> I went with 10 gauge power wire, which is supposed to be sufficient
> for a 750 watt amp (at that length) instead of the 12 gauge
> recommended for the 200 watts of the sub's built-in amp.

At the 750 watt range (about 62 amps if volts are 12) you need to be concerned
with voltage loss along the length of wire plus how the circuit is fused. You
did not mention the length, but 10-ga wire with a 62 amp draw loses about
0.062 volts for every foot of length.

My web page below helps make these calculations easy.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm

> Getting 4 gauge wire or whatever size necessary to the rear
> if one was to reposition their battery would appear to be a
> major endeavor. Where does one run those hot wires?

There is room (barely) to run two *0-gauge* cables next to the harness that
runs along the door sill if you want the wires out of sight. Smaller cables
should be no problem. You need to pull the passenger's seat, rear seat bottom,
passenger's rear seat back, quarter panel, and the plastic parts covering the
carpet and sill to get to the plastic pieces that protect the harness that
runs along the bottom of the door.

I am in the process of moving my battery to the rear compartment and so far
have run two 0-gauge cables from the stock battery position through the
harness opening in the firewall (shown on my web page below),

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dashpanelaccess.htm

along the door sill just discussed, up under the rear seat and quarter panel,
and to the area behind the rear seat where I have built an ABS box/shelf for
the Odyssey PC 925 battery, an onboard charger, a 300A fuse for B+, and a 30A
fuses and 30A relay for the fuel pump "hot wire" mod (plus some storage area).
More details will be on new web pages when I am finished.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: <dschilberg@pobox.com>; <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Team3S: Long: Saga with speaker install, plugs & wires

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:25:00 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

For those of you who don't follow the 3SI.org site the following is a link
to a thread about a VR4 which was put in a wind tunnel in Russa.

The Cx was .39 which is more than I thought !! Interesting stuff on the
active aero.

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=30897e323775452d732d4c7e51706f20&threadid=80438

        Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:15:29 -0700
From: Jim Elferdink <macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

I heard about this a couple years ago and saved the link to the Russian
site. I've always wondered about the veracity of this test, since everybody
else says the only effect of the active aero is an increase in the gee-whiz
factor.

http://autoreview.ru/new_site/year2000/n19/m3000/mits2.htm

Translation anyone?

- --Jim Elferdink

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:22:36 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

the russian site has a picture that looks like a cross between a 3000GT and a
Countach. Is that the original 3000GT concept? if it is, does anyone have a
better picture of it?

- -mike
97 SL

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:27:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

Go to www.translate.ru and you can cut-and-paste paragraphs to translate
it. You are limited in the number of words it will let you translate at
one go, but you can do it a bit at a time. However it is not perfect and
leaves unrecognized or highly slangy terms untranslated.

The units on the graphs are km/hour, RPMs, and newtons.

I think they got the terms 'spoiler' and 'air-dam' mixed up. They call
the part under the front bumper the 'spoiler'.

The last paragraph (I think) reads:

"Beneficial influence of an aerodynamic package on road performance
Mitsubishi 3000 GT is felt and behind a rudder - on high speed the
automobile with activated system Active Aero ransacks less and better
holds the given trajectory. And with the help of our measuring complex
Datron we could be convinced that release of front air dam and increase of
a corner of attack of the rear spoiler at all have not reduced size of the
maximal speed of the automobile."

On Mon, 20 May 2002, Jim Elferdink wrote:

> I heard about this a couple years ago and saved the link to the Russian
> site. I've always wondered about the veracity of this test, since everybody
> else says the only effect of the active aero is an increase in the gee-whiz
> factor.
>
> http://autoreview.ru/new_site/year2000/n19/m3000/mits2.htm
>
> Translation anyone?
>
> --Jim Elferdink

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:44:09 -0500
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <karyeong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

Better yet, try babelfish.altavista.com, you can just paste the URL in
it, and it'll translate the whole site. :)

KY
95 RT/TT

David Margrave wrote:
> Go to www.translate.ru and you can cut-and-paste paragraphs to translate
> it. You are limited in the number of words it will let you translate at
> one go, but you can do it a bit at a time. However it is not perfect and
> leaves unrecognized or highly slangy terms untranslated.
>
> The units on the graphs are km/hour, RPMs, and newtons.
>
> I think they got the terms 'spoiler' and 'air-dam' mixed up. They call
> the part under the front bumper the 'spoiler'.
>
> The last paragraph (I think) reads:
>
> "Beneficial influence of an aerodynamic package on road performance
> Mitsubishi 3000 GT is felt and behind a rudder - on high speed the
> automobile with activated system Active Aero ransacks less and better
> holds the given trajectory. And with the help of our measuring complex
> Datron we could be convinced that release of front air dam and increase of
> a corner of attack of the rear spoiler at all have not reduced size of the
> maximal speed of the automobile."

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:52:19 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
> the russian site has a picture that looks like a cross between a 3000GT
and a Countach. Is that the original 3000GT concept? if it is, does anyone
have a better picture of it?
> -mike
> 97 SL
- ------------------------------------->

The first photo is the Mitsubishi GTO "HSX" concept, based on the original
Chrysler design for our cars, and shown at the Tokyo auto show in 1989. It
featured "Active Footwork Design" (no one has a clue what the hell that
meant!). It's really very close to what we ended up with in the 3S in late
1990, when the '91's were introduced.

The second photo is of the actual original Chrysler design for our cars. On
the Russian site, it is mislabeled as 1988, when in fact it was shown for
the first time in ~1985. At that time, the car was called the "Intrepid"
(no relation - it was renamed the Stealth soon afterwards), and it was a
mid-engine 4-banger, with rooftop rearview mirrors and a rear deck that
looked like the current NSX. When Mitsu joined the project around '88, they
completely re-engineered the guts to what we have in our cars, but those
side vents on our cars actually worked at one time - designed by Ferrari to
cool the mid-engine. The body design was a joint effort by Chrysler,
Ferrari and Porsche, at the Hyland Park Design "think tank" facility in CA.
I know this photograph intimately, since it's MINE(!) - I added the rays to
an original photo by Team3S member Roger Roskam (from Chrysler) to cover up
about a dozen other concept cars in the background that were on private
display at Chrysler HQ.

Email me privately if you want a larger version of either photo 1 or 2...

Best,

Forrest

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:23:21 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel

Fantastic, Forrest! I'm wondering about the pictures in the 3000GT on
Page 1 of that article. If this is the first gen that we all know and
love then the left-hand gauge in the dash is a small digital gauge for
something. The middle gauge has two needles on it for something, and
then the right gauge for I'm guessing boost. The left one looks like a
clock with Hours, Minutes, Date/Time buttons but I can't tell.

Then in the center cluster where the Auto-climate is the buttons and
knobs look different too. The auto-climate screen and then to the right
is just a single knob. Below the Auto-climate is maybe storage for
tapes or something. Was this a concept car or an actual street design?

http://autoreview.ru/new_site/year2000/n19/m3000/mits1.htm

- --Flash!

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:10:38 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem

Another thing to check is the wires on the pressure sensor.   I located mine
on the firewall above the rear turbo, but toward the brake booster. Anyway,
the insulation on the wires shrunk thus allowing the bare wires to touch and
ground out. This caused the unit to not function properly. Anyway, I was
able to fix mine by wrapping electrical tape around the wires to keep them
from shorting.

Good luck,
Ken

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #846
***************************************