Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, May 19
2002 Volume 01 : Number
845
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 18 May 2002 14:33:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Adventures in Braking
> > 1. Any chance we
could fab a bracket to put Big Reds on the rear of a
> 3000GT? Has
anyone peeked at the rear brakes and made any kind of
> assessment on the
possibility of changing calipers back there?
- ---
Any upgrade requires
proof that something is actually inadequate.
> > 5. I have
ordered the necessary parts to install 3-in. NASCAR truck
> blowers on the
front brakes. I plan to move the water injection either to
> the forced
air induction duct (so it blows on the rotors as part of the air
> stream)
or inject directly into the calipers like TransAm cars do (to cool
> the
calipers and brake fluid). Thoughts?
- ---
Ive never thought direct water
application was anything but marginal, and
perhaps harmful. Cool AIR
(via water cooling/mist or not) is more
beneficial as all of your surfaces
get to use it, not just the one point
where simple water flashes to
steam. Im concerned about heat cycling as
well. Also, Im not
convinced youre boiling fluid..if maintained properly.
> >
7. I have ordered a set of stock rotors ($88 each with racer's
discount
> at my dealer) and will take them to Cyrogenic Engineering here
in Cedar
> Rapids for the treatment ($20 each). I bet stock rotors are of
higher
> quality than the replacement rotors we get from Porterfield,
Stillen and
> that bunch. Opinions
- ---
A 2pc rotor will vastly
outperform the VR4 style 1-pc. No weak spot at
the hub attachment with
all the heat cycling. Its time to spend some
money Merritt. And,
unless you can confirm the actual vendor of those
rotors, you are being
foolish comparing them against vendors that take a
great amount of care in
selecting and changing casting vendors as quality
shifts within a given
product line from a single vendor. Theres a reason
the PF rotors went
up $30/ea in cost, its from the feedback from this
list..that caused them to
hold accountable vendor A, and move to a better
one. Does the dealer do
this..or care?
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 14:10:04
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help: Car won't start
Chris-
.034 is great. don't recommend to go
under .030 unless you've got LOTS of
mods
-
-Riyan
*********************************************
On Friday,
May 17, 2002 7:48 AM Chris wrote:
<cut>
if I modulate the
accelerator (down to the floor and back)
quickly, sometimes...sometimes..it
sounds like 1 or 2 cylinders fire and
that it /may/ start, but never
does. I'm wondering if this is going back
to my new refurbed ECU being
fried. Possibly not using correct A/F
mixtures in combination with not
firing the plugs.
I just ordered new plugs for my car as
they need to be replaced anyway
(have about 40,000 miles on them). I'm
going to try the NGK Coppers
assuming I can get the car working again.
In the meantime, I am going to
send my ECU back to foreign ecu repair and
have them test the unit they
sent me in addition to testing my old ecu which
I'm sending to them for
core exchange anyway.
What should
I gap the NGK coppers to? Currently, I set the gap on my
double
platinums to .034" Should I go w/ the same on the
Coppers?
<cut>
Thanks,
Chris
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 14:15:10
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: followup:
RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
Good idea. I am definetely worried
about that ECU.
***********
Chris cook wrote:
In the meantime,
I am going to
send my ECU back to foreign ecu repair and have them test the
unit they
sent me in addition to testing my old ecu which I'm sending to them
for
core exchange anyway.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 18:17:47
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake question
Will the 2nd gen rear calipers fit on a 1st gen
car? Do the rotor have to
be changed out as well?
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:21:18
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Adventures in Braking
>> All other opinions and
thoughts (on brakes, please) are welcome.
>
>The Bremsas I have are
an ultimate thing on the tracks although I have never driven that much like you
do. <snip> I swear on the improvement in the rear but the front is not
what I like for a daily driver at the moment. I sent them back once to redo the
surface but the wobble came back when cold. Unfortunately, all people I know
have the very same problem (not sure about Mikael anymore). A month ago, one
Celica ST205 buddy broke one Bremsa rotor in pieces on the german autobahn at a
very high speed above 200km/h. As tehy have been the 1-piece design I can't say
if the 2-piece is more supperior.
>
Geez, Roger, I don't see why you
like the Bremsas at all. They warp, wobble, and
break.
Rich
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 12:21:39
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake question
Yes and yes
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, May 19, 2002 3:17 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brake question
> Will
the 2nd gen rear calipers fit on a 1st gen car? Do the rotor have
to
> be changed out as well?
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 12:25:00
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Adventures in Braking
> >The Bremsas I have are an
ultimate thing on the tracks although I have
never driven that much like you
do. <snip> I swear on the improvement in the
rear but the front is not
what I like for a daily driver at the moment. I
sent them back once to redo
the surface but the wobble came back when cold.
Unfortunately, all people I
know have the very same problem (not sure about
Mikael anymore). A month ago,
one Celica ST205 buddy broke one Bremsa rotor
in pieces on the german
autobahn at a very high speed above 200km/h. As tehy
have been the 1-piece
design I can't say if the 2-piece is more supperior.
> >
> Geez,
Roger, I don't see why you like the Bremsas at all. They warp,
wobble, and
break.
- - They warp/wobble onyl when cold. Have you cold brakes on the
track ?
- - The two piece never broke ... read again, the single piece design
broke
not mine !
So I like them alot when they are hot an the right
ones .. got it ?
Roger
93'30000GT TT
ww.rtec.ch
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 06:46:36
-0400
From: Michael Pliska <
mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Cold Start Stumble
My 1991 VR-4 has developed a problem over the
past several months: When
starting cold, it experiences a stumble, much like
a carbureted car with
no choke. The colder the temperature, the worse
it is. Coming from a
warm garage into a cold environment, it runs fine,
but if it has been
parked in cold ambient (anything below ~50° F), it
experiences the
stumble until it warms up (~ 5 minutes of driving) There are
no
malfunction codes showing up. Has anyone seen this? I had a
similar
problem on my old Conquest TSI, and it turned out to be the coolant
temp
sensor.
Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska
1991
VR-4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:17:48
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ")oost problem
Donald...
I don't believe the stock turbos
hold peak boost (9.5 psi?) for more than 1,000 rpm (roughly 3500 to 4500 rpm).
Then the boost drops off sharply. Although I didn't have an accurate aftermarket
boost gauge when I had stock turbos, it was clear that the boost was peaking in
a narrow band, even after I installed a boost controller and set it at 15 psi.
This is exactly why people invest in upgraded turbos along with injectors and
pump. If you read the archives you'll see that Roger Gerl did some scientific
testing (via an AWD dyno, not our more common "butt dyno") and showed that the
most significant gains can be achieved by starting the upgrade path with the
fuel system, not with the intake and exhaust as most of us have
done.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Donald Ashby [mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 10:58 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Weird(?) boost
problem
Today I installed a aftermarket boost guage in my
car
(Autometer -30-0-30).At about 2500 rpm in 2nd gear I hit positive
manifold
pressure. Then at about 3500 The boost peaks to 8 to 9. By 5000 rpm
the
boost has fallen back down to about 6, and by redline it is below 4. I
made
sure the vacuum tubing is not getting pinched, by routing it through
several
places. I even tried my friends tubing, all with the same results. Is
it
normal to have boost that low, I thought that stock boost levels were
9-11
the whole way through the rpm band?
Donald
- -1993 3000GT
VR-4
(Stock)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 09:36:23
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
Ben...
No need to change the ECU
or fuel rail to upgrade the injectors. Some
folks have used 560s, 620s, or
720s...depending on other mods. My
personal recommendation...stay away from
the aftermarket "plug in" ECU
mods, none of them are worth what you get. In
my case I wasted many $$$
with G-Force and never ended up with anything even
remotely reasonable.
I pulled the daughter board and went with the ARC2/MAF
fuel controller
which, while expensive, has provided excellent
results.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos,
RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top,
Magnecore 8.5mm
wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb
pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing,
ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen
cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1"
drop
progressive springs, strut tower bars, anti-sway bars, Michelin SX
MXX3
Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ben M. Jones [mailto:benjones@protechgp.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 12:59 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
All,
Some additional
questions.
If full 3" exhaust, air filter, manual boost controller to
18Psi can
injectors/fuel pump be upgraded (size suggestion?) without having
to
muck with stock ECU?
Can Stock ECU be mucked with (how important
would an AFC be, what about
JET Module)?
Does changing injectors
require larger fuel rail?
Ben.
<snip>
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 13:08:10
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cold Start Stumble
My car ('91 R/T tt) does the same
thing. If I wait until the coolant temp
gauge goes past the bottom
marker, it is ok, so that's what I do now.
Otherwise, it seems to me that the
turbo kind of hesitates until I go into
full boost, then the car runs
smooth. I have no idea what the real problem
is, or if it is
one.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Michael Pliska
Sent: Sunday,
May 19, 2002 6:47 AM
To: 3000GT Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Cold Start
Stumble
My 1991 VR-4 has developed a problem over the past several
months: When
starting cold, it experiences a stumble, much like a carbureted
car with
no choke. The colder the temperature, the worse it is.
Coming from a
warm garage into a cold environment, it runs fine, but if it
has been
parked in cold ambient (anything below ~50° F), it experiences
the
stumble until it warms up (~ 5 minutes of driving) There are
no
malfunction codes showing up. Has anyone seen this? I had a
similar
problem on my old Conquest TSI, and it turned out to be the coolant
temp
sensor.
Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska
1991
VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 12:25:21
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ")oost problem
> I don't believe the stock turbos hold peak
boost
> (9.5 psi?) for more than 1,000 rpm (roughly 3500
> to 4500
rpm). Then the boost drops off sharply.
>Although I didn't have an
accurate aftermarket boost
> gauge when I had stock turbos, it was clear
that
> the boost was peaking in a narrow band, even after
> I
installed a boost controller and set it at 15 psi.
Nah, stock 9b turbos
are good to at least 19 psi up to about 4500 RPM where
they start dropping
pressure. Mine dropped to about 15 psi at redline, but
others have said
they drop to as low as 9 psi at redline.
Without an accurate boost gauge
there's absolutely no way to tell what the
turbos are doing. The boost
controller could've easily been not calibrated
correctly and you'd never
know.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 12:08:59
-0700
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ECU ECM
Hello again
I have had some problems to get the car to go
well.
I took out the ECM and put in the owen for 3 houers at 50
Celcius.
Now the car goes perfect. Knock knock on wood.
Bye the
way.
In Europe there are a lot of of Stealths and 3000GTs that have an engine
whit 210 kW. Cant find that engine anywhere. Turbo?
Hans
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:34:01
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Cold Start Stumble (slightly ot)
I have an Infiniti M30 which stumbles
until it warms up and I know it's a
bad coolant temp sensor since the ECU
reports that code. I'm not sure if our
cars report a bad coolant temp sensor.
Nevertheless, assuming our ECUs do
report it, even if the sensor reports
being "connected" it's possible that
our ECU only distinguises continuity vs.
no continuity rather than good vs
bad. Will take a little bit of research.
I'll comb my FSM and see what I can
find for you
guys.
Riyan
************************************************************
On
May 19, 2002 3:47 AM, Michael Pliska said:
My 1991 VR-4 has developed a
problem over the past several months: When
starting cold, it experiences a
stumble, much like a carbureted car with
no choke. The colder the
temperature, the worse it is.
<CUT>
I had a similar
problem
on my old Conquest TSI, and it turned out to be the coolant
temp
sensor.
<CUT>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 19:20:30
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake question
you also need the backing plate/dust shield or trim
the
existing one --- not sure if trimming is
practical.
Jim
Berry
===================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, May 19, 2002 3:21 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake question
>
Yes and yes
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 3:17 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Brake
question
>
>
> > Will the 2nd gen rear calipers fit on a
1st gen car? Do the rotor have to
> > be changed out as
well?
> >
> > Doug
> > 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#845
***************************************