Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, May 18
2002 Volume 01 : Number
844
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 May 2002 22:12:05 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
This is not a big deal and has
already been made. It's just a frequency
shifter with an analoge input. There
is a basic frequency and the higher the
input voltage the higher the
frequency. The output can also be varied for a
different slope to be able to
run different injectors. I forgot who is
testing this on the list or the
board. But for sure I'd use an AFC in
additional to successfully tune it in.
This ends in a setup like the ARCII
that can do somewhat more than just the
MAF with Karman-Vortex frequency
output. You can of course also use the Field
thing ... (well ... the Supra
guys here have thrown it away so I don't know
if you will like it)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Hey could any of the EE's
on the board tell me if the thought below is
> feasible?
>
>
Use a Hotwire maf like found on some GM products and then a small
circuit
> board to convert that voltage in a oscillating frequency? In
theory this
> would allow us to use the MAF from the ARC2 or some other
application but
> use a Fields SFC to tweak the fuel curve (I still have
that thing and
DAMMIT
> I plan on using some how)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:26:58
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
See that's the thing most of the
supra guys I know ditched it also in favor
of the SAFC or full blown
standalone(they wanted something that was easier
to read or greater freedom
of tuning parameters) I don't care too much
about being able to read it
but rather the option of having 3 different
fuels maps at the push of a
button without all the pitfalls of a standalone.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 4:12 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
>
> This is not a big
deal and has already been made. It's just a frequency
> shifter with an
analoge input. There is a basic frequency and the higher
> the
>
input voltage the higher the frequency. The output can also be varied
for
> a
> different slope to be able to run different injectors. I
forgot who is
> testing this on the list or the board. But for sure I'd
use an AFC in
> additional to successfully tune it in. This ends in a
setup like the ARCII
> that can do somewhat more than just the MAF with
Karman-Vortex frequency
> output. You can of course also use the Field
thing ... (well ... the Supra
> guys here have thrown it away so I don't
know if you will like it)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> > Hey could any of
the EE's on the board tell me if the thought below is
> >
feasible?
> >
> > Use a Hotwire maf like found on some GM
products and then a small
> circuit
> > board to convert that
voltage in a oscillating frequency? In theory this
> > would allow us
to use the MAF from the ARC2 or some other application
> but
> >
use a Fields SFC to tweak the fuel curve (I still have that thing and
>
DAMMIT
> > I plan on using some how)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 01:46:17
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ???TDO4-15G???
... and that is why AAM won't warranty
them. AAM's 15G's are TEC 15G's
which are ported.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent: Friday,
May 17, 2002 12:59 PM
To:
'romachka21@netscape.net';
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: ???TDO4-15G???
If AAM wont even warranty the turbos they sell
go to importpoweronline.com
and do your shopping there. However be very
aware that there is about a 1
month delay on all of the listed TEC
turbos. Also worth noting if you port
or clip the turbos TEC will not
give you a warranty with their
hairdryers.
-Original Message-----
> From:
romachka21@netscape.net
[SMTP:romachka21@netscape.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:19
PM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: ???TDO4-15G???
>
> Well, here it starts I figured
out that my rear turbo is leaking oil.
> When the turbos spool up to about
0psi from negative while the car is in
> neutral, i would get smoke coming
out of my flex section. if I am reving
> the engine slowly so the turbos
do not spool i would have no smoke. I can
> keep the engine at 3000 rpms
witht the turbos not engaged and no smoke
> from under the car (flex
section).
>
> Well I did some research and want to buy 15G turbos. I
think they are the
> best deal for the money you spend.
>
>
But I heard from DSM performance that they will barely last a season.
That
> the center section is junk and the comperssors and turbines are to
heavy
> for the center section to support.
>
> Also AAM will
not give a warranty on them and I am scepticall of buying
> turbos that I
can't get even a 1yr warranty. Altered Atmosphere whats
> $2150 without
the core.
>
> What can I do with my turbos?
> Who else can
sell me 15G turbos and warranty them?
> Where can I get a better turbo for
about $2000? or I would pay a some
> extra to get something that I could
install my self and would be more
> reliable.
>
> I would
apreciate all the advice that I can get.
>
> Roman
G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 23:57:52
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Weird(?) boost problem
Today I installed a aftermarket boost
guage in my car
(Autometer -30-0-30).At about 2500 rpm in 2nd gear I hit
positive manifold
pressure. Then at about 3500 The boost peaks to 8 to 9. By
5000 rpm the
boost has fallen back down to about 6, and by redline it is
below 4. I made
sure the vacuum tubing is not getting pinched, by routing it
through several
places. I even tried my friends tubing, all with the same
results. Is it
normal to have boost that low, I thought that stock boost
levels were 9-11
the whole way through the rpm band?
Donald
- -1993
3000GT VR-4
(Stock)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 15:39:25
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Length 5
vs 6 speed drive shaft?
I need to know exactly how long the 6 speed drive
shaft is compared to the 5 speed drive shaft.
Thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 08:07:29
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Weird(?) boost problem
9 psi is about right for a first generation car,
however the boost should not
start to drop that early. The stock turbos
should be able to hold 9 psi to
redline --- if you get a boost controller
they won't be able to hold 15 psi to
redline though.
It sounds like your
controller isn't working properly --- the waste gate on the
turbo opens at 6
psi if the controller doesn't intervene and bleed air pressure
from the waste
gate. As a check you can remove the line from the boost
solenoid and while
--- carefully --- monitoring boost pressure, see how the
turbos react. With
the wastgate line open to atmosphere the turbos will
produce maximum boost
---- up to about 20 psi at 5000 rpm and dropping
off as you approach redline.
By watching the boost gauge you can avoid
exceeding 15 psi [ approximately 1
bar ]. There is potential for disaster if
18 to 20 psi of boost is used on
pump gas.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 10:57 PM
Subject: Team3S: Weird(?) boost
problem
> Today I installed a aftermarket boost guage in my
car
> (Autometer -30-0-30).At about 2500 rpm in 2nd gear I hit positive
manifold
> pressure. Then at about 3500 The boost peaks to 8 to 9. By 5000
rpm the
> boost has fallen back down to about 6, and by redline it is
below 4. I made
> sure the vacuum tubing is not getting pinched, by
routing it through several
> places. I even tried my friends tubing, all
with the same results. Is it
> normal to have boost that low, I thought
that stock boost levels were 9-11
> the whole way through the rpm
band?
> Donald
> -1993 3000GT VR-4
> (Stock)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 08:31:06
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Length 5 vs 6 speed drive shaft?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> I need to know
exactly how long the 6 speed drive shaft is compared to the
5 speed drive
shaft.
> Thanks.
- ------------------------------>
Here's
half of what you need - the 5-speed specs:
www.Team3S.com/STIM91/Images/tim_16-02.gifBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 11:57:33
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: More Adventures in Braking
Turns out that the cost of replacing
the leaky piston seals in my Porsche Big Red calipers is about half the cost of
buying new calipers. ($33 x 8 pistons = $264 + $100 labor = $364.) New calipers
are less than $300 each. I might be able to get the seal kits for $25 each from
another supplier. I don't think all the seals are bad -- looks like only the
inner seals are leaking -- but my brake guru (Denny's Mufflers in Cedar Rapids)
recommends rebuilding them all at the same time. Sounds like good advice, I
suppose. They aren't making anything off the parts, BTW.
Whilst I ponder
the decision of buy v rebuild, here are a few side issues I would like yer
opinion on:
1. Any chance we could fab a bracket to put Big Reds on
the rear of a 3000GT? Has anyone peeked at the rear brakes and made any
kind of assessment on the possibility of changing calipers back
there?
2. Any chance the Big Reds would fit on the front of a 1st
gen DSM? I have a 92 Talon TSi AWD turbo that could use a brake upgrade.
If I buy new calipers, I would have this spare set for foolin' around
with, and could check both possibilities out. But it'd be nice to know if such
mods were feasible first.
3. Would anyone want to buy a set of Big
Reds that just need seal replacements? They still work great, just leak a
little.
4. I don't know if they leak whilst racing, but when
we have it on the rack and are replacing pads or rotors, one or two pistons ooze
a little fluid. Whaddaya think? Can I ignore that and just keep truckin', or do
I gotta fix em?
5. I have ordered the necessary parts to install 3-in.
NASCAR truck blowers on the front brakes. I plan to move the water injection
either to the forced air induction duct (so it blows on the rotors as part of
the air stream) or inject directly into the calipers like TransAm cars do (to
cool the calipers and brake fluid). Thoughts?
6. Where's a good place to
buy SpeedBleeders for the Big Reds?
7. I have ordered a set of
stock rotors ($88 each with racer's discount at my dealer) and will take them to
Cyrogenic Engineering here in Cedar Rapids for the treatment ($20 each). I bet
stock rotors are of higher quality than the replacement rotors we get from
Porterfield, Stillen and that bunch. Opinions?
8. Is anyone except John
Christian using Supra rotors? John has sent me a ton of info and pix on how to
make the conversion, and I'll probably tackle that project this winter. I'd like
to hear from anyone else who's tried 'em.
All other opinions and
thoughts (on brakes, please) are welcome.
Rich/Slow old poop
94 3000GT
VR4 with:
Porsche Big Red calipers, Carbotech Panther Plus pads, SS lines,
Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors, Motul 600 fluid, soon-to-be NASCAR
truck blowers and air ducts, soon-to-be water injection to calipers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:08:04
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Length 5 vs 6 speed drive shaft?
Mark at PST can tell
you.
888-575-7888
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 9:31 AM
To: Mikael
Kenson;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Length 5 vs 6 speed drive shaft?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> I need to know
exactly how long the 6 speed drive shaft is compared to the
5 speed drive
shaft.
> Thanks.
- ------------------------------>
Here's
half of what you need - the 5-speed specs:
www.Team3S.com/STIM91/Images/tim_16-02.gifBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 15:28:39
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
A pillar install
Donald,
Do not try to wire the gauge in such a
way so that it will dim down with
the dimmer switch. For the boost
gauge, you may do that since it is
purely a mechanical switch (most of them
anyway). However, for the EGT
gauge you cannot do it. When I
wired my EGT gauge so that I can dim it,
I would see different EGT temps,
depending on whether the dimmer switch
was on a high or low setting.
You still need to grab the lighting wires
from the dimmer switch, just
different ones. Maybe someone else has
done it successfully. Let
us know.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
>From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: A pillar install
>
>Im wiring the guage light into the
radio dimmer, that way if I dim my
>cluster lights, the guage light will
dim as well! Is there any closer
spot >to wire a dimmer
into?
>
>Donald
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:30:49
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: A pillar install
Depends on the guage, I have the HKS peak hold and
they have a seperate
wire for the
light.
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Saturday, May 18, 2002 12:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: A pillar
install
> Donald,
>
> Do not try to wire the gauge in
such a way so that it will dim down with
> the dimmer switch. For
the boost gauge, you may do that since it is
> purely a mechanical switch
(most of them anyway). However, for the EGT
> gauge you cannot do
it. When I wired my EGT gauge so that I can dim it,
> I would see
different EGT temps, depending on whether the dimmer switch
> was on a
high or low setting. You still need to grab the lighting wires
>
from the dimmer switch, just different ones. Maybe someone else
has
> done it successfully. Let us know.
>
>
-MIHAI-
> 95 Red VR4
>
> >From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: A pillar install
> >
> >Im wiring the
guage light into the radio dimmer, that way if I dim my
> >cluster
lights, the guage light will dim as well! Is there any closer
> spot
>to wire a dimmer into?
> >
> >Donald
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 22:51:01
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Adventures in Braking
> 1. Any chance we could
fab a bracket to put Big Reds on the rear of a
3000GT? Has anyone
peeked at the rear brakes and made any kind of
assessment on the possibility
of changing calipers back there?
Since I upgraded to Bremsa rotors and
Pagid Orange I do not see any need for
that. The second gen brakes are very
good in the rear and till today they
did what tehy are supposed to
do.
> 5. I have ordered the necessary parts to install 3-in. NASCAR
truck
blowers on the front brakes. I plan to move the water injection either
to
the forced air induction duct (so it blows on the rotors as part of the
air
stream) or inject directly into the calipers like TransAm cars do (to
cool
the calipers and brake fluid). Thoughts?
I personally would leave
out the water spray (it's not an injection). IMHO
the extreme heat chances is
just too much cycles for the material. A good
constant air cooling is what
should be done right.
> 7. I have ordered a set of stock rotors
($88 each with racer's discount
at my dealer) and will take them to Cyrogenic
Engineering here in Cedar
Rapids for the treatment ($20 each). I bet stock
rotors are of higher
quality than the replacement rotors we get from
Porterfield, Stillen and
that bunch. Opinions
Well, would work two
piece rotors better or not ?
> > 8. Is anyone except John Christian
using Supra rotors? John has sent me
a ton of info and pix on how to make the
conversion, and I'll probably
tackle that project this winter. I'd like to
hear from anyone else who's
tried 'em.
The Supra rotors (330mm is the
size of them in Europe) seems to work fine
with the right caliper adapter for
the Porsche 993 brakes.
> All other opinions and thoughts (on brakes,
please) are welcome.
The Bremsas I have are an ultimate thing on the
tracks although I have never
driven that much like you do. My track
experience is more training with the
trainers voice in my earphone. Never did
more than two laps at once
(although long ones). The Bremsas together with
the Pagid Orange are
somewhat strange. First he dust of the pads filled up
the drilled holes
after two laps. Also they sticked on the rotors afterwards
and brake loose
with a loud clunck and left a large sign o nthe rotors. After
the first time
of this experince I drove for a few minutes with almsot zero
brakign to cool
them down. Second, the are warping when cold and are perfect
(for me of
course) when warm or even hot. They also stop when cold but the
wobble on
the steering wheel is horrible for a daily driver. The Bremsas are
a two
piece design, crossdrilled and slotted (available in plain, slotted
or
combination) in every rotor diameter customizeable. I run the stock
european
314 mm disks on the aluminum hubs with the stock calipers or the
Porsche 993
ones. The later are used with Ferodo pads but I have never been
to the track
with them yet as the caliper brackets are somewhat wrong and I
reinstalled
the stock ones after a few weeks. I will made my own brackets
soon to
eliminate any problems. The rear rotors are also cd and slotted but
still a
1 piece design.
I swear on the improvement in the rear but the
front is not what I like for
a daily driver at the moment. I sent them back
once to redo the surface but
the wobble came back when cold. Unfortunately,
all people I know have the
very same problem (not sure about Mikael
anymore).
A month ago, one Celica ST205 buddy broke one Bremsa rotor in
pieces on the
german autobahn at a very high speed above 200km/h. As tehy
have been the
1-piece design I can't say if the 2-piece is more supperior.
More infor on
my page
www.rtec.ch and
directly at bremsa
www.bremsa.chRoger
93'3000GT
TT
(all EU cars of every year had second gen brakes)
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#844
***************************************
