Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 17
2002 Volume 01 : Number
843
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 May 2002 19:44:44 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Variable Resistor Coolant Temp Sensor
As Matt mentions, the
ECM uses the coolant temp sensor to determine the
correct amount of fuel to
inject based on engine conditions.
However, "fooling" the ECM would likely
be counterproductive in this case as
new fuel curves are not selected. The
open-loop fuel "curve" is selected based
on the air flow and engine speed.
The coolant temp is used only to make
adjustments to the final amount,
increasing the injector pulse width when the
temp is below 176ºF. When the
actual engine temp is not below this value, the
mixture will be too rich and
therefore not increase power (as Matt points
out).
I have a fairly
comprehensive technical note on fuel injection control at the
URL below for
those wanting more information. Additions or corrections to this
web page
are welcome.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelinjection.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Team3s: Variable
Resistor Coolant Temp Sensor
> I did this once on a different car. It
basically fools the ECU into
> thinking the coolant is cooler, and runs
different fuel and spark curves.
> I don't think it works very
well.
It is actually counter-productive if your car is already getting
enough
fuel. At lower than normal operating temperature coolant the car
injects
additional fuel, kinda like a choke. Since these cars already
run pretty
rich in stock form, adding more fuel will decrease power.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 13:19:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sparkplug gap
I have my 92 Stealth TT in a shop for a head
rebuild,
valves and such. So far the only upgrades on the car
are the
upgraded K&N air charger and 13G turbos. I
also changed the boost setting
from the 92 model, 8psi
to the 94 model 12psi with the removal of the
plastic
liner in the boost seloniod . While this is somewhat
minor I do
believe from what I have read on this
thread that changing the gap to .036
would be a range
that would be best now. My problem is the mechanic
thinks
I'm nuts, and seems to think I should stick
with the stock setting. Before he
will make the change
he wants me to provide some documentation that my
gap
setting would be better then the stock setting. He has
a two year
warranty on the work he does but maybe not
if I change the gap. I need to
find some place where
it backs up my assertion. Also he wants to know
what
plug number would be correct for the changes I've
made. Can anyone
help me or correct my thinking or
give me a part number for the plug that
would work
best.
Peter 92 TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:33:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
[Willis, Charles E.] If your mechanic is
going to use a minor
change in spark gap like that as an excuse to void his
warranty, then let
him put it together with the stock gap, and then you go
pull the plugs
yourself and regap them. I know that sounds
inefficient considering that
he could do it right while the intake manifold
plenum is already off the
car, but how much time are you willing to spend
trying to convince him to do
something he doesn't want to do?
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:47:17
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
Peter,
As far as sparking itself goes,
there are two factors to consider: the voltage
required to ionize the
electrode gap and the voltage available to the plug
from the rest of the
ignition system. Assuming your plug wires and coils etc.
are working fine
and you are not going to "upgrade" them, then the available
voltage is fixed
(though not constant because it decreases as RPM increase).
However, the
required voltage varies with spark plug and engine operating
conditions.
If the required voltage exceeds the available voltage then there is no
spark,
which is called a misspark or misfire. One of the major factors that
increases
the required voltage above available voltage (causing misfires) is
the
increased density of the intake charge experienced during heavy
acceleration
with high boost at high RPM. And basically the easiest thing we
can do to
reduce required voltage (to reduce or eliminate misfire) is to
reduce the
electrode gap. The exact gap width needs to be empirically
determined for your
engine and your driving style.
For more
information on this topic and some references for your mechanic, take
a look
at my almost complete web page below. It still needs some polish and a
summary, which should be done soon.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "tam 3S"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
I have
my 92 Stealth TT in a shop for a head rebuild,
valves and such. So far the
only upgrades on the car
are the upgraded K&N air charger and 13G turbos.
I
also changed the boost setting from the 92 model, 8psi
to the 94 model
12psi with the removal of the plastic
liner in the boost seloniod . While
this is somewhat
minor I do believe from what I have read on this
thread
that changing the gap to .036 would be a range
that would be best now. My
problem is the mechanic
thinks I'm nuts, and seems to think I should
stick
with the stock setting. Before he will make the change
he wants me
to provide some documentation that my gap
setting would be better then the
stock setting. He has
a two year warranty on the work he does but maybe
not
if I change the gap. I need to find some place where
it backs up my
assertion. Also he wants to know what
plug number would be correct for the
changes I've
made. Can anyone help me or correct my thinking or
give me a
part number for the plug that would work
best.
Peter 92
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:35:47
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sparkplug gap
Jeff: I looked at your new web page on spark
plugs. As usual it is very
informative and complete. It does not mention,
however, the new NGK ix
iridium plugs. These costs about half what the stock
platinum plugs costs
and should outlast them. Do you have any feedback on
whether or not they are
any good.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 16:44:32
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sparkplug gap
Hi Peter,
I would suggest that if you are
planning on staying with the 12psi boost
setting you should be fine with the
stock gap of .044. This shouldn't cause
a problem since it is the stock
setting for 2nd gen models. If, however,
you choose to up the boost
from there, I would definitely re-gap the plugs
to .032 - .034. From
what I have learned, you should go with as large of a
gap as possible without
getting spark blowout. Unfortunately, finding this
"happy place" may
require that you become an expert at removing/installing
your intake plenum :
)
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: menalteed
[mailto:menalteed@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 3:19 PM
To: tam
3S
Subject: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
I have my 92 Stealth TT in a shop
for a head rebuild,
valves and such. So far the only upgrades on the
car
are the upgraded K&N air charger and 13G turbos. I
also changed
the boost setting from the 92 model, 8psi
to the 94 model 12psi with the
removal of the plastic
liner in the boost seloniod . While this is
somewhat
minor I do believe from what I have read on this
thread that
changing the gap to .036 would be a range
that would be best now. My problem
is the mechanic
thinks I'm nuts, and seems to think I should stick
with
the stock setting. Before he will make the change
he wants me to provide some
documentation that my gap
setting would be better then the stock setting. He
has
a two year warranty on the work he does but maybe not
if I change the
gap. I need to find some place where
it backs up my assertion. Also he wants
to know what
plug number would be correct for the changes I've
made. Can
anyone help me or correct my thinking or
give me a part number for the plug
that would work
best.
Peter 92 TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:24:27
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
Peter -
I'm curerntly running Denso
Iridium plugs in my '94 VR-4. I'm running about
1 bar of boost (14.5
PSI), and I've got my plugs gapped at around .038. The
old plugs were
stock platinums, gapped at .032. Since installing these new
plugs at
the wider gap, my car's power delivery is smoother, and it pulls
noticeably
harder. I'm not sure whether the improvements are due to the
iridium
material/design, or the wider gap, or the worn-out old plugs.
Maybe
it's a combination these factors, but I think the wider gap is a big
reason.
If you're going to stick with the stock 2nd/3rd gen 12 PSI,
the stock gap of
.044 should be optimal. If you want to play with
turning up the boost (and
chances are you will - most of us do eventually!),
then gapping down the
plugs a little might be a good idea. Don't go
crazy though, as gapping your
plugs too narrow can cause incomplete
combustion, which results in less
power and decreased fuel economy. The
.032 figure I hear tossed around
frequently is probably necessary for
everybody running relatively high boost
(17+ PSI), but if you're planning to
stick around the 15 PSI that can be
supported by the stock fuel system, then
.032 is probably too narrow.
My two cents. Good
luck!
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Black, Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 16,
2002 2:45 PM
> To: menalteed; Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Sparkplug gap
>
>
> Hi Peter,
>
> I would
suggest that if you are planning on staying with the
> 12psi
boost
> setting you should be fine with the stock gap of .044. This
> shouldn't cause
> a problem since it is the stock setting for 2nd
gen models.
> If, however,
> you choose to up the boost from
there, I would definitely
> re-gap the plugs
> to .032 -
.034. From what I have learned, you should go with
> as large of
a
> gap as possible without getting spark blowout.
>
Unfortunately, finding this
> "happy place" may require that you become an
expert at
> removing/installing
> your intake plenum : )
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: menalteed
[mailto:menalteed@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 3:19
PM
> To: tam 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
>
>
> I have my 92 Stealth TT in a shop for a head rebuild,
> valves
and such. So far the only upgrades on the car
> are the upgraded K&N
air charger and 13G turbos. I
> also changed the boost setting from the 92
model, 8psi
> to the 94 model 12psi with the removal of the
plastic
> liner in the boost seloniod . While this is somewhat
>
minor I do believe from what I have read on this
> thread that changing
the gap to .036 would be a range
> that would be best now. My problem is
the mechanic
> thinks I'm nuts, and seems to think I should stick
>
with the stock setting. Before he will make the change
> he wants me to
provide some documentation that my gap
> setting would be better then the
stock setting. He has
> a two year warranty on the work he does but maybe
not
> if I change the gap. I need to find some place where
> it
backs up my assertion. Also he wants to know what
> plug number would be
correct for the changes I've
> made. Can anyone help me or correct my
thinking or
> give me a part number for the plug that would work
>
best.
>
> Peter 92 TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:35:48
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Sparkplug gap
I will give documentation that anybody who would VOID a 2
year engine
warranty over a frigging sparkplug gap change will probably
never honor
that warranty no matter what. Sheesh! Let
him provide documentation on
how narrowing the gap up a few thousandths
totally threatens the mechanical
integrity of your engine and why the
warranty is so threatened by this...
There are plenty of people, myself
included on my (2) 3000GT VR4's, that
have had ENGINE PROBLEMS including
missing, due to stock plug gap at higher
boost levels on our SPORTS CARS
which are used hard as a matter of course.
Narrowing the plug gap solves the
problem usually. I personally go to about
.026" gap with stock
ignition, .032 with MSD DIS4 unit, at ~16-23psi boost
range. Of course
there is no bad side effect from narrower gap that I have
ever noted.
I
hope Rocket Scientist doesn't want a peer-reviewed journal article to
"prove"
this before he'll "allow" a plug gap change...in the 9-12 psi range
it's
optional, but .036 is a perfectly fine gap to use there.
For 12psi with you
can use stock plug part numbers. If roadracing etc, then
get 1 heat
range colder, I dunno the part numbers, but best IMO are NGK
Racing
plugs.
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
> I have my
92 Stealth TT in a shop for a head rebuild,
> valves and such.
upgrades are K&N air charger, 13G turbos.
> boost 12psi. I
believe from what I have read on this
> thread that changing gap to .036
would be best now. My problem is the
mechanic
> thinks I'm nuts, and
thinks I should stick
> with stock setting. Before he'll change
> he
wants me to provide documentation that my gap
> would be better than stock
setting. He has
> a two year warranty on the work he does but maybe
not
> if I change the gap. I need to find some place where
> it
backs up my assertion. Also he wants to know what
> plug number would be
correct for the changes I've
> made. Can anyone help me or correct my
thinking or
> give me a part number for the plug that would work
>
best.
> Peter 92 TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:36:33
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
I have a 1st gen Stealth TT. I want to
install DSM 450 injectors. Should I
buy the 1st gen 450 injectors or
will the 2nd gen 450 injectors work?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:19:12
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: A pillar install
Hi guys I got my a-pillar double guage pod from
autometer. So I went out to
my car and gave a mighty tug on the stock
a-pillar, but all was for naught.
Can anyone on the list give me a few
helpfull pointers on how to remove the
a-pillar? I'm dreading that I may need
to remove the dash!?! Please say it
isn't so. Thank you all for the
help!!
Donald
- -1993 3000GT VR-4
(Stock)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:17:15
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Datalogger
If you recall, I had a post about a week ago about
the Datalogger and am
sending an update. I paid the $300 via PayPal to
Technomotive for the
Datalogger on May 5 hoping to have an order placed and a
Datalogger sent
to me within a reasonable time for some diagnosing of a first
gen VR-4
this summer at the tracks.
Here is a quick rundown of the
events as I feel it is not only in poor
taste to show such crappy customer
service but also a public service
announcement that if you are looking for
some logging equipment to look
at the other available options (on
www.stealth316.com is a
good
listing). I had chosen the Technomotive Datalogger because I
knew
several friends had them and they worked well. Now I will be
forced to
look elsewhere for such a device.
1. I asked for an update
via email on May 7 and May 9
(1 business day and the
morning of the 3rd business day,
respectively, after
the order was placed).
2. On May 7 (1 business day after the order was
placed) I
also left a voicemail about the
update.
3. On May 9 (evening of the 3rd business day after
the
order was placed) after hearing nothing via
email or phone
I decided to cancel my order. I
had also called Buschur
Racing who informed me that
they have been waiting for
two months for these
dataloggers.
4. I received nothing from Technomotive as far as
updates
on the Datalogger. Nothing. Even
in the electronic age
a rental car company or hotel
sends confirmation of a
reservation or that they
received the request.
5. On May 9 (evening of the 3rd business day after
the
order was placed) I requested money in the
amount of
$300 via PayPal from TMO
Technomotive.
6. On May 16 (9 business days after the order was placed) I
got
a refund of $300 from Technomotive for my
cancelled order.
I do not think that within 5 business days a response to
an order is out
of reason. As you can see, I detracted the Sunday as
calculation on the
number of days between the order and the next day of my
request. The
Internet (and PayPal) is open 24x7 but Banks are not and
some businesses
are not so I took Sunday out of the calculation.
So
here I sit with a car that did not retard the timing enough,
caused
detonation, fouled up the spark plugs, will not re-fire, and had to
be
loaded on a trailer mid-day through the track event. Some of that
I
would have only been able to diagnose with a logging device and some
was
just partly bad luck because of another failure in the chain of
events
(hot EGT from detoniation, high water temp from engine trying to
cool
hot temps, maybe an older water pump or thermostat not working at
100%,
etc.).
So I need to look for other logging equipment but know
that I will not
be using or recommending the Technomotive Datalogger to
anyone.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and helping on a 1992 VR-4 at the
track
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:20:08
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A pillar install
You do not have to remove the
Dash.
The A-Pilar is held on by clips. Pull harder from the top
middle first.
Work you way towards the back of the car and pull out from
behind the
B-Pillar. Then you should be able to able to pull the front
out.
Some metal clips will stay on the car. Some metal clips will
come off with
the A-Pilar.
Take all the metal clips off the car and
snap them back on the A-pillar. If
you don't do that it pillar will not stay
up in the future.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 8:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: A pillar install
>
Hi guys I got my a-pillar double guage pod from autometer. So I went
out
to
> my car and gave a mighty tug on the stock a-pillar, but all
was for
naught.
> Can anyone on the list give me a few helpfull
pointers on how to remove
the
> a-pillar? I'm dreading that I may need
to remove the dash!?! Please say it
> isn't so. Thank you all for the
help!!
> Donald
> -1993 3000GT VR-4
> (Stock)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 19:31:48
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Datalogger
I was wondering what features the TMO logger has that the
pocket logger
does not? I have not installed the TMO software, but
have used and am
very satisfied with the pocket's software. Plus, a
total cost of $255
($155 for the logging software and cable + $100 including
tax for an 8Mb
mindspring PDA) is far more appealing than $300 plus the cost
of a
laptop. Both disable ABS while logging, and both offer a fast
number of
features including O2, knock, RPM, intake temp, and
timing.
Am i missing something?
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:31:36
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Datalogger
Not up on all the pocketlogger features, but the
TMO has a ton... I just
find the TMO windows based software to be incredibly
easy to use... I
also like the idea of a laptop over a PDA...
(used
laptops that run windows are cheap)
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Damon Rachell
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:32 PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
Datalogger
I was wondering what features the TMO logger has that the
pocket logger
does not? I have not installed the TMO software, but
have used and am
very satisfied with the pocket's software. Plus, a
total cost of $255
($155 for the logging software and cable + $100 including
tax for an 8Mb
mindspring PDA) is far more appealing than $300 plus the
cost of a
laptop. Both disable ABS while logging, and both offer a
fast number of
features including O2, knock, RPM, intake temp, and
timing.
Am i missing something?
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:35:47
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: A pillar install
No, no, no, Moe. He has a dual-gauge
A-pillar pod. This is meant to
slap right on top of the stock
A-pillar. Some 200-mph tape (i.e. Duct
tape), Velcro, zip-ties, those
little plastic clips with barbs on them,
etc.
The single and double
gauge pods just slap right on. In fact, my single
gauge pod and double
slip down between the stock A-pillar pod and the
dash with one gauge in them
and are good enough for show and stay in
place most times but are not
secured.
Only the full triple gauge pod shown on here recently (and maybe
one
other) are full pillar replacements.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with
single and double Autometer gauge pods
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Moe Prasad
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002
22:20
You do not have to remove the Dash.
The A-Pilar is
held on by clips. Pull harder from the top middle first.
Work you way
towards the back of the car and pull out from behind the
B-Pillar. Then
you should be able to able to pull the front out.
Some metal clips will
stay on the car. Some metal clips will come off
with
the
A-Pilar.
Take all the metal clips off the car and snap them back on the
A-pillar.
If
you don't do that it pillar will not stay up in the
future.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Hi guys I got my a-pillar double guage pod from autometer. So I
went
out
to
> my car and gave a mighty tug on the stock a-pillar,
but all was for
naught.
> Can anyone on the list give me a few helpfull
pointers on how to
remove
the
> a-pillar? I'm dreading that I may
need to remove the dash!?! Please
say it
> isn't so. Thank you all for
the help!!
> Donald
> -1993 3000GT VR-4
>
(Stock)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:07:42
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A pillar install
Well according to autometer I do need to
remove the a-pillar, otherwise
where am i going to run the wires/tubing
through? Im planning on pulling out
the pillar, cutting a small hole in it,
and drilling 4 holes to insert those
little clips to hold the pod onto the
pillar. That way I can run the wires
and tubes behind the a pillar, down
through the dash, and pull the boost
tube out through the steering column
boot. That is what I think will be the
cleanest install, any ideas/comments
on this proposed plan?
by the way: Im wiring the guage light into the radio
dimmer, that way if I
dim my cluster lights, the guage light will dim as
well! Is there any closer
spot to wire a dimmer into?
Donald
-
-1993 3000GT VR-4
(Stock)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:06:14
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help: Car won't start
Chris-
Let me put it this way. If you're
definetely getting fuel, that's good. But
a can of starting fluid is usually
under $5. I bought pyroil (cheap, value
brand like $2), although I don't feel
that there's any difference between
which brand fluid you get. There are a
few unlikely things (such as
water/sugar in your gas) or a clogged/restricted
fuel filter which
drastically reduces fuel pressure. The point of starting
fluid is to
COMPLETELY ELIMINATE the chance that one of these other obscure,
often
overlooked problems is occurring. If you car starts off of the fluid,
then
you know for SURE that you have good timing, sufficient spark, and
a
functional electrical system. If starting fluid won't start it, you can
be
pretty sure that the problem is electrical related, because starting
fluid
WILL start the car if it's electrically able to start. So let's go
from
there and see what happens, unless you have other ideas
:)
Take off the Y-pipe and shoot the stuff straight into the throttle
body
(not just into the Y pipe or air filter because less concentrate hits
the
plugs) for about 2-3 seconds. Preferably, you want a
friend/family
member/relative/cat/dog to help you push down the gas pedal
while you shoot
the fluid in the TB, then immediately release the pedal and
try starting the
car right after you stop spraying. This guarantees that the
air inside the
TB is charged and primed to fire. Doesn't work? Do it again.
Still no luck?
Must be an electrical fault. Also, if there's no one to help
you, you can
always pull the throttle lever by yourself while spraying the
fluid in, but
in this case you're more likely to fumble and get the fluid all
over your
hands, or lose that thin red spray nozzle somewhere enough
said.
Riyan
P.S. now a reason not to do this would be
if you lived in a rural area and
the auto parts store is a pain in the ass to
get to. Good luck. Keep us
posted.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Chris Cook [mailto:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 7:52 AM
To: Riyan Mynuddin
Cc: Team3S
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
I'm definatly getting fuel.
Havn't tried spraying starting fluid into the
throttle body yet. But,
why should I need to do this. The car /was/
running fine before all
this happened? Also, any particular starting
fluid better than
another. I don't think I have any Ether left :)
-
--Chris
On Wed, 15 May 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
>
Chris-
>
> Same here. My spark is weak too. Car still runs great
though. And you are
> getting fuel? Have you tried taking the "Y" pipe off
and spraying starting
> fluid straight into the throttle body, then
cranking?
>
>
****************************************
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Chris Cook [mailto:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:10 AM
> To: Riyan Mynuddin
> Cc:
Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't
start
>
>
> Ok...This is what seems OK:
>
> All
checked according to Service Manual. All Tests in manual
performed:
>
> -Spark Plug Wires (resistance is a bit higher than
stock, but
they've
>
always been as they're magnecores --right?)
>
> -Ignition
Coils: Both Primary and Secondary resistance w/in spec
>
>
-Power Transistor: Passes service manuals tests
>
> - B+ at Ignition
Coils: Good
>
> -Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensor (One in the
same for '92): Good
>
> -Engine Coolant Sensor and harness:
Good
>
> -"Engine" Fuse Good
>
> So, I'm beginning to
think that either A) My Spark Plugs are really hosed.
> B) The ECU I got
from Foreignecurepair.com is not good.
>
> I replaced my plugs at
80,000 miles and now I'm at 117,000. I was going
> to do a plug
change soon anyway, but is it likely that I can't start the
> car due to
bad plugs? When I replaced them, I used the NGK Double
>
Platinums. When I put a plug on the block and ground it...sometimes
there
> is spark, and when there is...It appears very weak. Not the
normal *SNAP*
> I'm used to. What would be causing this...especially
since the coils and
> power transistor check out fine.
>
<cut>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 00:08:19
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A pillar install
Don't be surprized if the guage lights don't
dim.
There are wires behind the pillar pad. Don't make a hole in
the pillar pod
until you take it off, otherwise you could cut the
wires.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald
Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: A pillar
install
> Well according to autometer I do need to remove the
a-pillar, otherwise
> where am i going to run the wires/tubing through? Im
planning on pulling
out
> the pillar, cutting a small hole in it, and
drilling 4 holes to insert
those
> little clips to hold the pod onto
the pillar. That way I can run the wires
> and tubes behind the a pillar,
down through the dash, and pull the boost
> tube out through the steering
column boot. That is what I think will be
the
> cleanest install, any
ideas/comments on this proposed plan?
> by the way: Im wiring the guage
light into the radio dimmer, that way if I
> dim my cluster lights, the
guage light will dim as well! Is there any
closer
> spot to wire a
dimmer into?
>
> Donald
> -1993 3000GT VR-4
>
(Stock)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:03:19
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Datalogger
At 19:31 16.05.2002 -0700, Damon Rachell
wrote:
>I was wondering what features the TMO logger has that the pocket
logger
>does not? I have not installed the TMO software, but have
used and am
>very satisfied with the pocket's software. Plus, a
total cost of $255
>($155 for the logging software and cable + $100
including tax for an 8Mb
>mindspring PDA) is far more appealing than $300
plus the cost of a
>laptop. Both disable ABS while logging, and
both offer a fast number of
>features including O2, knock, RPM, intake
temp, and timing.
>
>Am i missing something?
The PAL Logger
is a copy of the TMO Windows Software adapted to the PALM
OS. Therefore they
are in principle the same although the PALM Version will
be further
developed..
Unfortunately I must agree with Darren as the service of TMO
is simply ..
nonexistent. Every year or so Todd Day (TMO) is changing
something in the
Software and an update (like the boost logging feature) is
available
(maybe). Issues like timing for our 6 cyls and air flow are still
not
solved although I asked Todd years ago about that.
The PALM is
somewhat too small for good analysis of the data after a run.
Here the data
export is useful to a PC and with the viewer its ok.
The ABS will not be
disabled when the plug is connected to the diagnostic
port after the
ignition is on. The light comes on to signalize that car is
in diagnostic
mode and ready to receive data extract commands from an
external
device.
What to buy ?? Today I'd say the PALM-Logger with a somewhat
better viewer
would be the solution. Maybe it's time to start to copy the
connecter and
the TMO software as the producer is not making the stuff
anymore (or not
selling). This allows one to reproduce this parts ! I myself
have both
versions and like the Laptop version much more so far. Maybe
becuase I do
not have a color PALM.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 01:52:32
-0700
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ECU computer
Hello
I still have problem whit the car.
Its runns
rough.
I read that the ECU is bad at the 1991 Stealth ES.
I cant
download the Mitsubishi Spearpart from J.Lucius homepage.
Can i get the
number at the computer from anybody?
1991 ES. Car 24V dohc Vin:
005231 (id)
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:11:41
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AIG Insurance
Glenn-
AIG is great. They're also huge, well
represented, and honest. However, you
need a near perfect record for them to
accept you. I had one "at fault"
accident and they accepted me only because
the idiot rep counted it as a
"not at fault" accident without telling me. The
underwriting deparment,
about 45 days later did an investigation and found
that my one "at fault" is
enough to make me ineligible. I had to go back to
my shady insurance broker
to get me some value liabilty :(
bottom
line: no matter how excited and orgasmic the commission sales rep
sounds to
sign you up, if your driving record isn't near perfect, don't
waste your
time.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
my newest car, with the highest
mileage
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of glenn amy
Sent: Thursday, May
16, 2002 5:54 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: AIG Insurance
I'm checking price quotes for car insurance and AIG
is
coming in low - real low. Has anyone had good/bad
experience with
this company?
Thanks
Glenn
'93 vr-4 and 3 other
cars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 08:36:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A pillar install
I have installed single guage a-pillar
mounts ontwo cars. They
required removal of the a-pillar to cut a hole
for the wiring and holes for
the mounting of the pod.
>
> The single and double gauge pods just slap right on. In fact, my
single
> gauge pod and double slip down between the stock A-pillar pod and
the
> dash with one gauge in them and are good enough for show and stay
in
> place most times but are not secured.
>
> Only the full
triple gauge pod shown on here recently (and maybe one
> other) are full
pillar replacements.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:50:39
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: A pillar install
Well maybe it's me again but I've been able to
just pass the wires down
beside the dash and the A-pillar as I didn't want to
cut a hole in the
A-pillar as this is not a permanent installation but the
gauge will
eventually move to the center gauge cluster.
Wires do not
take up very much space remember. If you have a mechanical
boost gauge
though then you need to take care not to squash the hose
that is leading to
the gauge.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:31:46
-0500
From:
COdell@oriental.comSubject: Team3S:
Hesitation
Hello Mitsu guru's...I'm quite the newbie to this list but
interested
nonetheless. I was hoping someone has had a previous
experience with what
I'm sort of dealing with right now. I own a 91
Stealth R/T (non-turbo) and
am experiencing a little hesitation during normal
acceleration. When I
mostly "feel" the hesitation is when I'm starting
in first gear --around
1000 - 1200rpm. Perhaps that's when it's
most noticeable for I have felt
the same thing in higher gears. Could I
guess it's the Throttle Position
Sensor? Or the Manifold Absolute
Pressure sensor? I had it tuned up about
5 months ago with new plugs,
fuel filter, etc. and to no avail.
Another guess would be a vacuum leak but I
have checked most hoses. (that I
could find/reach)
One other variable
that sort of puts a spin on things is that the mechanics
who tuned the car
(whom I wouldn't write home to mom about) mentioned that
I have oil seeping
from the a spark plug well (not sure which plug yet)
into the plug
galley. They didn't notify me until AFTER the engine was put
back
together which really pulled my chain. (more $ for them)
Any ideas
on the hesitation or any common problems that generally occur at
this
milage?
Now:
91 Pearl White Dodge Stealth R/T
74K miles
K&N
air filter
Soon:
Ground Control coil-over
Accel 300+ Thundersport
wires
Thank you all very much in advance.
-
-Chris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:40:59
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
Is there anyone on the list with knowledge
if a second gen VR-4 caliper
will fit a second gen Eclipse? I know that
a 17" wheel might be
necessary but is it possible to get a bracket like the
Porsche Big Red
bracket some of us use for the Porsche brakes and fab it so a
VR-4
caliper will fit an Eclipse? This is a 1994 Base model that I
am
interested in fitting it to if that makes a difference. Just
weird
since we are usually putting the cheaper DSM parts on our car and here
I
am mixing it all up again.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with spare stock
front calipers looking for a home
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:47:45
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
Thanks,
Last night I
picked up some starting fluid from NAPA, although I
sprayed it in the Y-Pipe
(Just alot easier to take off and put back on.)
Didn't start the car.
I'll try again tonight by taking the Y-pipe off and
spraying it directly into
the throttle body.
Also, if I modulate the accelerator (down
to the floor and back)
quickly, sometimes...sometimes..it sounds like 1 or 2
cylinders fire and
that it /may/ start, but never does. I'm wondering
if this is going back
to my new refurbed ECU being fried. Possibly not
using correct A/F
mixtures in combination with not firing the
plugs.
I just ordered new plugs for my car as they need to
be replaced anyway
(have about 40,000 miles on them). I'm going to try
the NGK Coppers
assuming I can get the car working again. In the
meantime, I am going to
send my ECU back to foreign ecu repair and have them
test the unit they
sent me in addition to testing my old ecu which I'm
sending to them for
core exchange anyway.
What should I
gap the NGK coppers to? Currently, I set the gap on my
double platinums
to .034" Should I go w/ the same on the Coppers?
I
have not had my car running for nearly 3 weeks now. It is
so
frustrating.
Thanks,
Chris
On Thu, 16 May
2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> Chris-
>
> Let me put it
this way. If you're definetely getting fuel, that's good. But
> a can of
starting fluid is usually under $5. I bought pyroil (cheap, value
> brand
like $2), although I don't feel that there's any difference between
>
which brand fluid you get. There are a few unlikely things (such as
>
water/sugar in your gas) or a clogged/restricted fuel filter which
>
drastically reduces fuel pressure. The point of starting fluid is to
>
COMPLETELY ELIMINATE the chance that one of these other obscure, often
>
overlooked problems is occurring. If you car starts off of the fluid,
then
> you know for SURE that you have good timing, sufficient spark, and
a
> functional electrical system. If starting fluid won't start it, you
can be
> pretty sure that the problem is electrical related, because
starting fluid
> WILL start the car if it's electrically able to start. So
let's go from
> there and see what happens, unless you have other
ideas :)
>
> Take off the Y-pipe and shoot the stuff straight
into the throttle body
> (not just into the Y pipe or air filter because
less concentrate hits the
> plugs) for about 2-3 seconds. Preferably, you
want a friend/family
> member/relative/cat/dog to help you push down the
gas pedal while you shoot
> the fluid in the TB, then immediately release
the pedal and try starting the
> car right after you stop spraying. This
guarantees that the air inside the
> TB is charged and primed to fire.
Doesn't work? Do it again. Still no luck?
> Must be an electrical fault.
Also, if there's no one to help you, you can
> always pull the throttle
lever by yourself while spraying the fluid in, but
> in this case you're
more likely to fumble and get the fluid all over your
> hands, or lose
that thin red spray nozzle somewhere enough said.
>
>
Riyan
>
> P.S. now a reason not to do this would be if
you lived in a rural area and
> the auto parts store is a pain in the ass
to get to. Good luck. Keep us
> posted.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Chris Cook [mailto:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 7:52 AM
> To: Riyan Mynuddin
> Cc:
Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't
start
>
>
> I'm definatly getting fuel. Havn't tried
spraying starting fluid into the
> throttle body yet. But, why
should I need to do this. The car /was/
> running fine before all
this happened? Also, any particular starting
> fluid better than
another. I don't think I have any Ether left :)
>
>
--Chris
>
>
> On Wed, 15 May 2002, Riyan Mynuddin
wrote:
>
> > Chris-
> >
> > Same here. My spark
is weak too. Car still runs great though. And you are
> > getting fuel?
Have you tried taking the "Y" pipe off and spraying starting
> > fluid
straight into the throttle body, then cranking?
> >
> >
****************************************
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Chris Cook
[mailto:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:10
AM
> > To: Riyan Mynuddin
> > Cc: Team3S
> > Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
> >
> >
> >
Ok...This is what seems OK:
> >
> > All checked according to
Service Manual. All Tests in manual performed:
> >
> >
-Spark Plug Wires (resistance is a bit higher than stock, but they've
>
>
always been as they're magnecores --right?)
> >
> > -Ignition
Coils: Both Primary and Secondary resistance w/in spec
>
>
> > -Power Transistor: Passes service manuals tests
>
>
> > - B+ at Ignition Coils: Good
> >
> >
-Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensor (One in the same for '92): Good
>
>
> > -Engine Coolant Sensor and harness: Good
> >
>
> -"Engine" Fuse Good
> >
> > So, I'm beginning to think
that either A) My Spark Plugs are really hosed.
> > B) The ECU I got
from Foreignecurepair.com is not good.
> >
> > I replaced my
plugs at 80,000 miles and now I'm at 117,000. I was going
> > to
do a plug change soon anyway, but is it likely that I can't start the
>
> car due to bad plugs? When I replaced them, I used the NGK
Double
> > Platinums. When I put a plug on the block and ground
it...sometimes there
> > is spark, and when there is...It appears very
weak. Not the normal *SNAP*
> > I'm used to. What would be
causing this...especially since the coils and
> > power transistor
check out fine.
> > <cut>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:15:37
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: AZO, way to go!
FYI,
MEMPHIS, Tenn., May 7,
2002 /PRNewswire-FirstCall via COMTEX/ --
Drivers now have one less reason
to be in the dark when it comes to a glowing check-engine light. AutoZone (AZO,
Trade), the nation's leading specialty auto parts retailer, today launched a
"Check-Engine Light" program at all of its 3,037 stores nationwide, offering
free diagnosis of what's causing customers' engine warning lights to come on --
an estimated 20 million vehicles on any given day.
Kurt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:01:22
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
I'm pretty sure they didn't change the
injectors between 1st and 2nd gen on either car. Anyone care to correct or
confirm?
While we're on the topic, anyone else running the 450cc DSM
injectors? I've got the supra pump and I'm thinking about a S-AFC and
450cc's. Can we raise the boost with these simple fuel delivery
options? What are other people running?
geis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:37
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
>
>
> I have a 1st gen
Stealth TT. I want to install DSM 450
> injectors. Should
I
> buy the 1st gen 450 injectors or will the 2nd gen 450 injectors
work?
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:11:12
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bob Akin
This is a little late on the news but I still felt it
was worth
mentioning.
Bob Akin, veteran racer and car tuner,
tragically lost his life due to
an accident in practice at Road Atlanta at
the end of April. I saw his
company preparing cars at the Glen this
week when I was at the track and
it was nice to see them carrying on life as
Bob would certainly have
wanted them to do. I am sure I would have been
able to meet him next
week at a Ferrari event in LA or back here at the Glen
or Lime Rock or
any of the events over the summer. Let's all take a
moment of silence
for the passing of a legend.
www.bobakin.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:15:21
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sparkplug gap
Hi Andy,
On paper, the iridium plugs
offer two main advantages over conventional copper
plugs. One, increased
wear due to better resistance to oxidation and
corrosion. This leads to
longer service life because the spark gap does not
widen as fast. Two, the
smaller electrode diameter reduces the required
voltage, leading to fewer
misfires. Platinum plugs have these same two
advantages but just not so
much.
There have been anecdotal stories both pro and con concerning the
actual
performance of iridium plugs in our turbo models. I have used both
conventional copper (currently) and platinum, but not iridium, so can only
say
personally that either copper or platinum work fine for me, and the
copper are
1/6th the cost (15k-, 30k-, or 60k-mile change interval makes no
difference to
me).
The published/research values for reduced
required voltage or increased
performance of iridium plugs may be larger
than we might actually experience
in our engines. For example, look at the
Denso web page below that shows
increased acceleration performance because
Denso iridium plugs were used.
http://www.denso.co.jp/PLUG/iridium-e/q15.htmlNow
look at the fine print on that page: 6th gear WOT with a 250cc 2-stroke
2-
cylinder water-cooled engine. It sure would be nice if Denso would show us
results for a *real* street engine, say a 2972cc 4-stroke 6-cylinder
turbocharged V6. :)
Many of the highest output 3S cars are using
copper plugs - and some use
platinum. Maybe some use iridium plugs - I don't
know. It may be too early to
tell if the iridium plugs offer any real
advantage, performance-wise not wear-
wise, over copper or platinum plugs in
our cars. I added some links to iridium
plug web pages in the References but
will not likely say much more on my web
page concerning precious metal
plugs. While the elctrode tip material is
different, the operation
principles remain the same.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
jlucius@stealth316.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 16, 2002 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sparkplug
gap
Jeff: I looked at your new web page on spark plugs. As usual it
is very
informative and complete. It does not mention, however, the new NGK
ix
iridium plugs. These costs about half what the stock platinum plugs
costs
and should outlast them. Do you have any feedback on whether or not
they are
any good.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:19:10
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: ???TDO4-15G???
Well, here it starts I figured
out that my rear turbo is leaking oil.
When the turbos spool up to about 0psi
from negative while the car is in neutral, i would get smoke coming out of my
flex section. if I am reving the engine slowly so the turbos do not spool i
would have no smoke. I can keep the engine at 3000 rpms witht the turbos not
engaged and no smoke from under the car (flex section).
Well I did some
research and want to buy 15G turbos. I think they are the best deal for the
money you spend.
But I heard from DSM performance that they will barely
last a season. That the center section is junk and the comperssors and turbines
are to heavy for the center section to support.
Also AAM will not give a
warranty on them and I am scepticall of buying turbos that I can't get even a
1yr warranty. Altered Atmosphere whats $2150 without the core.
What can
I do with my turbos?
Who else can sell me 15G turbos and warranty them?
Where can I get a better turbo for about $2000? or I would pay a some extra
to get something that I could install my self and would be more
reliable.
I would apreciate all the advice that I can get.
Roman
G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:31:05
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sorting through Clutch options
I'm looking for clutch options,
but here's some background info first. I just blew out my 1/2nd gear shift
port, and my 3rd gear synchro is going. '94 VR-4's in the shop. I've
got DR-500 turbos, K&N, underdrive pulley, etc. Currently I'm running
13.3 on 11.5psi... I'm thinking about upgrading the fuel system with supra pump,
450cc inj, and a S-AFC.
That being said, I've got an RPS stage II with a
stock disc. Now they've got RPS MAX and the stage I, II, etc. has gone
away. I want to put a stronger clutch in, but I used to have a Mueller
twin-disc, and it was too grabby for the street (I got used to it a bit, but no
one else could drive it). I'm looking for some happy medium... I've
thought about the MAX clutch with a street disc, and I've thought about the
street clutch with a 6-puck disc. Anyone have suggestions or comments on
any of these?
TIA,
geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 09:34:49
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
I am contacting an after market MAF
meter maker. I need to know the voltage
range of the stock air
meter. Does anyone know what the voltage range is?
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:36:55
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
Flash,
The DSM guys have been trying
to do this for years. The problem is that the caliper bolt holes do not
line up. If you did enough fiddling I'd imagine you could get anything to
fit, but the DSM guys seem to have mostly given-up on the idea AFAICT. I
can't give you another suggestion for a caliper to use, though.
Summary:
It doesn't appear to be worth the effort.
geis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 10:41
AM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject: Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
>
>
> Is there anyone on the list with knowledge if a second gen
> VR-4 caliper
> will fit a second gen Eclipse? I know that a
17" wheel might be
> necessary but is it possible to get a bracket like
the Porsche Big Red
> bracket some of us use for the Porsche brakes and
fab it so a VR-4
> caliper will fit an Eclipse? This is a 1994 Base
model that I am
> interested in fitting it to if that makes a
difference. Just weird
> since we are usually putting the cheaper
DSM parts on our car
> and here I
> am mixing it all up
again.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with spare stock front
calipers looking for a home
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:45:34
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
Thanks, Geis, but don't the Porsche Big Red
bolt holes not line up with
ours to begin with? Theirs go 90-degrees
(another axis) to the stock
3/S bolts but these have been made to fit (an
aluminum bracket with
holes for the stock hub to receive and the Big Red
caliper to bolt to).
Maybe if I take off the wheel of the Eclipse then I
will see the problem
and maybe it is something deeper under the surface than
first appears.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Geisel, Brian [mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002
12:37
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
Flash,
The DSM
guys have been trying to do this for years. The problem
is that the
caliper bolt holes do not line up. If you did enough
fiddling I'd
imagine you could get anything to fit, but the DSM guys
seem to have mostly
given-up on the idea AFAICT. I can't give you
another suggestion for a
caliper to use, though.
Summary: It doesn't appear to be worth the
effort.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:57:33
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
Yeah - I am not familiar with the big
red kits. 90 degrees might be easier, b/c you could bolt a block of metal
onto the caliper mounting points, and bolt the caliper into that. On the
DSM they go the same way, so you'd have to have a pretty thick block to bolt to
- and our calipers stick out pretty far as is...
I say go for it though,
if you come up with a solution, let us know. I know a lot of dsmers who
would like to hear about it.
geis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:46
PM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 3/S caliper on a
DSM
>
>
> Thanks, Geis, but don't the Porsche Big Red bolt
holes not
> line up with
> ours to begin with? Theirs go
90-degrees (another axis) to the stock
> 3/S bolts but these have been
made to fit (an aluminum bracket with
> holes for the stock hub to receive
and the Big Red caliper to
> bolt to).
>
> Maybe if I take
off the wheel of the Eclipse then I will see
> the problem
> and
maybe it is something deeper under the surface than first appears.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Geisel, Brian [mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 17,
2002 12:37
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com; Team3S
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3/S caliper on a DSM
>
> Flash,
> The
DSM guys have been trying to do this for years. The problem
> is
that the caliper bolt holes do not line up. If you did enough
>
fiddling I'd imagine you could get anything to fit, but the DSM guys
>
seem to have mostly given-up on the idea AFAICT. I can't give you
>
another suggestion for a caliper to use, though.
>
> Summary: It
doesn't appear to be worth the effort.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:59:10
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ???TDO4-15G???
If AAM wont even warranty the turbos they sell
go to importpoweronline.com
and do your shopping there. However be very
aware that there is about a 1
month delay on all of the listed TEC
turbos. Also worth noting if you port
or clip the turbos TEC will not
give you a warranty with their hairdryers.
-Original Message-----
> From:
romachka21@netscape.net
[SMTP:romachka21@netscape.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:19
PM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: ???TDO4-15G???
>
> Well, here it starts I figured
out that my rear turbo is leaking oil.
> When the turbos spool up to about
0psi from negative while the car is in
> neutral, i would get smoke coming
out of my flex section. if I am reving
> the engine slowly so the turbos
do not spool i would have no smoke. I can
> keep the engine at 3000 rpms
witht the turbos not engaged and no smoke
> from under the car (flex
section).
>
> Well I did some research and want to buy 15G turbos.
I think they are the
> best deal for the money you spend.
>
>
But I heard from DSM performance that they will barely last a season.
That
> the center section is junk and the comperssors and turbines are to
heavy
> for the center section to support.
>
> Also AAM will
not give a warranty on them and I am scepticall of buying
> turbos that I
can't get even a 1yr warranty. Altered Atmosphere whats
> $2150 without
the core.
>
> What can I do with my turbos?
> Who else can
sell me 15G turbos and warranty them?
> Where can I get a better turbo
for about $2000? or I would pay a some
> extra to get something that I
could install my self and would be more
> reliable.
>
> I
would apreciate all the advice that I can get.
>
> Roman
G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 13:06:54
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
Brian actually they did on the 91-93's
nozzle on the end of the injector was
just an opening however on the 94-95's
they have little slit/splitter in the
he nozzle of the injector. Not
sure of the benefit or hindrance but Mitsu
did it for some
reason.....
You can safely raise the boost to 15 psi on the stockers with
450CCs, for
13G's @ 15psi I recommend 550CC injectors. For 15Gs get
660CC bigger than
that you are on your own. Hell my setup is
going to be 850CC BLITZ's
feeding a pair of the new Extreme Performance
turbos :)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geisel,
Brian [SMTP:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:01
PM
> To: dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
>
> I'm pretty sure they
didn't change the injectors between 1st and 2nd gen
> on either car.
Anyone care to correct or confirm?
>
> While we're on the topic,
anyone else running the 450cc DSM injectors?
> I've got the supra pump and
I'm thinking about a S-AFC and 450cc's. Can
> we raise the boost
with these simple fuel delivery options? What are
> other people
running?
>
> geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:12:23
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sorting through Clutch options
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
-
---------------snip----------->
> That being said, I've got an RPS
stage II with a stock disc. Now they've
got RPS MAX and the stage I,
II, etc. has gone away. I want to put a
stronger clutch in, but I used
to have a Mueller twin-disc, and it was too
grabby for the street (I got used
to it a bit, but no one else could drive
it). I'm looking for some
happy medium... I've thought about the MAX clutch
with a street disc, and
I've thought about the street clutch with a 6-puck
disc. Anyone have
suggestions or comments on any of these?
> TIA, geis
-
-------------------------------->
When I talked to Rob at RPS a few
weeks ago (while shopping for my own new
clutch), he dissuaded me away from
the 6-puck. He said that the plain old
RPS Max clutch with the Street
disc was sufficient for my (non-turbo)
Stealth. But note that he said
that that was **since I didn't have a turbo
model**. Especially with
your higher-HP car, the Street disc (552lbs torque
cap) won't cut it,
IMO. You should probably go with the (680lbs torque) Max
w/ Sprung Hub,
for streetability, but you might just want to call Rob and
ask his
advice. I love the feel of this clutch for my apps - road racing
and
street use. Fast, positive grab, but you can still slip it if you
need
to - more than sufficient for my purposes. Rob said the best price
was
through Accelerated Accesories, so I called Matt, who agreed with Rob's
call
about the Max w/ Street disc being most appropriate for me. I
placed the
order, (and got the Team3S discount), and it was in my hands in 5
days.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:15:35
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Air Sensor Voltage Range
The MAS puts out a frequency signal to determine
air flow --- It's a Karmin
vortex type meter. Voltage is 5 volts but as
stated the output is a 5 volt
oscillation where the frequency is
proportional to the air flow.
A vortex is generated by the air flowing
past a sensor, the faster the
flow the ----- as a matter of fact just check
this link from Jeff Lucius's
site it describes it a lot better than I
can.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 9:34 AM
Subject: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage
Range
> I am contacting an after market MAF meter maker. I need
to know the voltage
> range of the stock air meter. Does anyone know
what the voltage range is?
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 12:23:04
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
Thanx Russell,
I posted to the local
DSM list, and they said the same thing. The injectors are the same, except
the nozel is O shapped on the 1g and 8 shaped on the 2g. The suggestion
from there was - "I wouldn't mix and match both types on the same engine".
That makes sense, but otherwise sounds like you can use whichever you want,
Doug.
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman,
Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 1:07
PM
> To: Geisel, Brian; dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
>
>
> Brian
actually they did on the 91-93's nozzle on the end of
> the injector
was
> just an opening however on the 94-95's they have little
>
slit/splitter in the
> he nozzle of the injector. Not sure of the
benefit or
> hindrance but Mitsu
> did it for some
reason.....
>
> You can safely raise the boost to 15 psi on the
stockers with
> 450CCs, for
> 13G's @ 15psi I recommend 550CC
injectors. For 15Gs get
> 660CC bigger than
> that you are on
your own. Hell my setup is going to be 850CC BLITZ's
> feeding
a pair of the new Extreme Performance turbos :)
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Geisel, Brian
[SMTP:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
> > Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:01
PM
> > To: dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
> >
> > I'm pretty
sure they didn't change the injectors between
> 1st and 2nd gen
>
> on either car. Anyone care to correct or confirm?
> >
> > While we're on the topic, anyone else running the 450cc DSM
> injectors?
> > I've got the supra pump and I'm thinking about
a S-AFC and
> 450cc's. Can
> > we raise the boost with
these simple fuel delivery options?
> What are
> > other
people running?
> >
> > geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:22:30
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Air Sensor Voltage Range
Sorry I forgot to add the link --- try
this.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_14-08.gif
Jim Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage
Range
> The MAS puts out a frequency signal to determine air flow
--- It's a Karmin
> vortex type meter. Voltage is 5 volts but as stated
the output is a 5 volt
> oscillation where the frequency is proportional
to the air flow.
>
> A vortex is generated by the air flowing past
a sensor, the faster the
> flow the ----- as a matter of fact just check
this link from Jeff Lucius's
> site it describes it a lot better than I
can.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ==================================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 9:34 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage
Range
>
>
> > I am contacting an after market MAF meter
maker. I need to know the voltage
> > range of the stock air
meter. Does anyone know what the voltage range is?
> >
>
> Doug
> > 92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 13:24:45
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
Hey could any of the EE's on the
board tell me if the thought below is
feasible?
Use a Hotwire maf like
found on some GM products and then a small circuit
board to convert that
voltage in a oscillating frequency? In theory this
would allow us to use the
MAF from the ARC2 or some other application but
use a Fields SFC to tweak the
fuel curve (I still have that thing and DAMMIT
I plan on using some
how)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 1:16 PM
> To:
dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
>
> The MAS puts out
a frequency signal to determine air flow --- It's a
> Karmin
>
vortex type meter. Voltage is 5 volts but as stated the output is a 5
volt
>
> oscillation where the frequency is proportional to the air
flow.
>
> A vortex is generated by the air flowing past a sensor,
the faster the
> flow the ----- as a matter of fact just check this link
from Jeff Lucius's
> site it describes it a lot better than I can.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:27:49
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECU computer
Hans --- There are 2 part numbers for the 90 - 92 build
dates, to know
which one is correct I would need your complete VIN. The
numbers
shown are MD159962 or MD159963 but I can't tell which is yours
without more information.
You can contact me privately if you need
more information.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
>
Hello
>
> I still have problem whit the car.
> Its runns
rough.
> I read that the ECU is bad at the 1991 Stealth ES.
>
> I cant download the Mitsubishi Spearpart from J.Lucius
homepage.
> Can i get the number at the computer from anybody?
>
> 1991 ES. Car 24V dohc Vin: 005231 (id)
>
>
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:51:50
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Air Sensor Voltage Range
> Hey could any of the EE's on the
board tell me if the thought
> below is feasible?
>
> Use a
Hotwire maf like found on some GM products and then a
> small circuit
board to convert that voltage in a oscillating
> frequency? In theory this
would allow us to use the MAF from
> the ARC2 or some other application
but use a Fields SFC to
> tweak the fuel curve (I still have that thing
and DAMMIT
> I plan on using some how)
You could certainly make a
circuit like that from some parts you can buy at
Radio Shack, BUT I don't
know if I'd trust it in an automotive application
(thermal fluctuations,
vibration, durability of components etc.) for such an
important and sensitive
circuit. But then again, I'm paranoid about such
things ;)
-
--Erik
new '95 VR-4 as of tomorrow + a lot of spare VR-4
parts
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:05:55
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3/S caliper on a DSM
If the mounting holes are similar to ours but spaced
differently, maybe
you can offset the whole caliper by say 45 degrees
(radially from the
hub) and use a block of aluminum as the
bracket.
This is what I'm looking to do to convert the NAs to TT brakes
but that
problem is a little more complicated.
Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> Thanks, Geis, but don't the Porsche Big Red bolt holes not
line up with
> ours to begin with? Theirs go 90-degrees (another
axis) to the stock
> 3/S bolts but these have been made to fit (an
aluminum bracket with
> holes for the stock hub to receive and the Big Red
caliper to bolt to).
>
> Maybe if I take off the wheel of the
Eclipse then I will see the problem
> and maybe it is something deeper
under the surface than first appears.
>
> --Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:59:11
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
All,
Some additional
questions.
If full 3" exhaust, air filter, manual boost controller to
18Psi can
injectors/fuel pump be upgraded (size suggestion?) without having
to
muck with stock ECU?
Can Stock ECU be mucked with (how important
would an AFC be, what about
JET Module)?
Does changing injectors
require larger fuel rail?
Ben.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geisel, Brian [mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2002 1:23 PM
To: Furman, Russell; dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
Thanx Russell,
I posted to the local
DSM list, and they said the same thing.
The injectors are the same, except
the nozel is O shapped on the 1g and
8 shaped on the 2g. The suggestion
from there was - "I wouldn't mix and
match both types on the same
engine". That makes sense, but otherwise
sounds like you can use
whichever you want, Doug.
geis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 1:07
PM
> To: Geisel, Brian; dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
>
>
> Brian
actually they did on the 91-93's nozzle on the end of
> the injector
was
> just an opening however on the 94-95's they have little
>
slit/splitter in the
> he nozzle of the injector. Not sure of the
benefit or
> hindrance but Mitsu
> did it for some
reason.....
>
> You can safely raise the boost to 15 psi on the
stockers with
> 450CCs, for
> 13G's @ 15psi I recommend 550CC
injectors. For 15Gs get
> 660CC bigger than
> that you are on
your own. Hell my setup is going to be 850CC BLITZ's
> feeding
a pair of the new Extreme Performance turbos :)
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Geisel, Brian
[SMTP:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
> > Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 12:01
PM
> > To: dakken;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 450 cc Injectors
> >
> > I'm pretty
sure they didn't change the injectors between
> 1st and 2nd gen
>
> on either car. Anyone care to correct or confirm?
> >
> > While we're on the topic, anyone else running the 450cc DSM
> injectors?
> > I've got the supra pump and I'm thinking about
a S-AFC and
> 450cc's. Can
> > we raise the boost with
these simple fuel delivery options?
> What are
> > other
people running?
> >
> > geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#843
***************************************
