Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, May 16
2002 Volume 01 : Number
842
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 May 2002 11:33:01 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dash board removal...
I have Dash Removal instructions on my
website -
http://www.daveblack.netI have
detailed instructions and lots of pics (over 35) to help you along
the
way. Jeff Lucius has the dash part diagram listed on his site.
Between
the 2 sources, it should be pretty easy...
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: ek2mfg
[mailto:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 2:14 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Dash board removal...
Does anybody have any info on removing the
dash? I will be doing this
this weekend and any additional info on this would
be very
helpfull....maybe a stealth316 type info
site?
bobk.
9399R/T
cracked vents going away! new guages and S-AFC
going in
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:36:52
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
exhaust & brake question
Some pads are prone to dusting and premature
wear if not
properly broken in e.g. heat cycled. In a street
environment
you seldom heat the pads to high temps so if you didn't go
out
of your way to bring the pads up to temp they may not
be 'seasoned'
properly.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Cc:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
<
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake
question
> By the same token, I dont understand how you can upgrade
powerwise, and
> not consider stopping power mods -first-.
>
> The R4-S, I generate very very little dust..even in the Jeep yanking
a
> 9000lb trailer cross country.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:55:05
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: exhaust & brake question (Brake Dust)
I upgraded from stock
pads (fronts for now) to Porterfield R4S pads. My
first open track time I
generated quite a bit of dust. After that, the dust
has been very
little.
I have yet to try R4 pads. I'm thinking that I will stay with R4S
pads for
a while (my wife says I'd better considering that I just bought 2
more sets
of front pads).
Michael A. Gerhard
1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:25:23
-0600
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ecu rebuild
Does anyone know anything about the AVPRO company
that is listed on Jeff's
site that rebuilds our ecu's? I visited the
AVPRO website and I called the
guy on the phone. His prices seem very
low, his website was very
professional, and he sounded competent on the
phone. I was just a little
concerned because he does not except credit
cards; only money orders. Has
anyone dealth with this guy
before?
Thanks
Justin Sturgeon
91 Stealth R/T
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:10:41
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
Geoff...
My point was
that I've found the braking ability of a stock VR4 to be
more than adequate
for "normal" driving conditions. The fact that I can
get to freeway speed
more quickly than I could when my VR4 was stock in
no way influences the fact
that the car stops just as well as it did
when I bought it. I imagine my top
speed may have been increased
slightly (due to hp increase and weight
reduction) but it's difficult to
maintain 150+mph anywhere in my area of the
country. Soooo, having to
stop from 185mph versus 150mph is not the issue.
Most "critical events"
are due to driving faster than the flow of traffic and
being required to
make either direction or speed adjustments quickly...once.
For me, this
is a matter of awareness, reaction time, and training versus
needing
bigger rotors and/or calipers.
Open track driving, where the
whole "game" is to go as fast as you can
for a very short period of time,
then slam on the brakes to prepare for
a corner, then do it again (and again,
and again) is a very special (and
artificial) situation and does indeed
necessitate upgrading the brake
system.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:20
AM
To: Chris Winkley
Cc: Willis, Charles E.;
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
By the same token, I dont
understand how you can upgrade powerwise, and
not consider stopping power
mods -first-.
The R4-S, I generate very very little dust..even in the
Jeep yanking a
9000lb trailer cross country.
On Wed, 15 May 2002,
Chris Winkley wrote:
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:21:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
Of course, im not suggesting
that you -need- more, but for most people the
added security that you CAN do
severe MPH panic stops in a shorter
distance..is worth the $100 at a
minimum..it would cost most people.
Thats all I was saying..just that
braking reliability should be towards
the front of any mod list.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 13:43:31
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
vehicle VIN decoding?
Hi all,
I'm looking for general vehicle VIN
decoding - not specific to Mitsubishi.
I.e. I have a VIN, I want
to know the make, model, etc.
Anyone know some links?
Thanks.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:59:34
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: vehicle VIN decoding?
My guess is that VINs ARE specific to make.
Here is a web site that may help.
http://www.buyclassiccars.com/vin.aspIt
has links to sites decoding VINs for various makes.
At 11:43 AM 5/15/02 ,
you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I'm looking for general vehicle VIN
decoding - not specific to Mitsubishi.
>
>I.e. I have a VIN, I want
to know the make, model, etc.
>
>Anyone know some links?
Thanks.
>
>Dave 95VR4
>http://www.daveblack.net
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:18:57
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ecu rebuild
I would like to know this also. I posted
this question to 3si and no one
responded. His prices were better than
anywhere else but the money order
to the po box thing scared me away.
If you end up going with him, let me
know how it turns
out.
Thanks,
Chris Cook
On Wed, 15 May 2002, Justin
Sturgeon wrote:
> Does anyone know anything about the AVPRO company
that is listed on Jeff's
> site that rebuilds our ecu's? I visited
the AVPRO website and I called the
> guy on the phone. His prices
seem very low, his website was very
> professional, and he sounded
competent on the phone. I was just a little
> concerned because he
does not except credit cards; only money orders. Has
> anyone dealth
with this guy before?
> Thanks
>
> Justin Sturgeon
> 91
Stealth R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:22:13
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
I agree with Geoff. It's
nice to be able to stop on the street and I didn't
find the dusting with the
Stillens to be as bad as Chris says, and it washed
off. The Carbotech
pads dust at least as much as the Stillens, but I think
the dust washes off
easier. Don't know about the 4S pads and dust. Stock
pads work
pretty good, especially if you bleed the brake fluid, even though
I have also
never had brake fade on the street. Exchanging the rubber brake
lines
for stainless steel goes a long way to giving a firmer feel to the
brakes.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 11:20
AM
> To: Chris Winkley
> Cc: Willis, Charles E.;
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com;
>
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
>
> By the same
token, I dont understand how you can upgrade powerwise, and
> not consider
stopping power mods -first-.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 18:35:45
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ecu rebuild
I was looking for ECU rebuild sits and came across
www.fulllogic.com From
their
website it looks like they have a $250 special for any Mitsubishi ECU
- -
hopefully this works for a 3/S and not only DSMs!
Rich F
on
5/15/02 10:25 AM, Justin Sturgeon at
justinstur@hotmail.com
wrote:
> Does anyone know anything about the AVPRO company that is
listed on Jeff's
> site that rebuilds our ecu's? I visited the AVPRO
website and I called the
> guy on the phone. His prices seem very
low, his website was very
> professional, and he sounded competent on the
phone. I was just a little
> concerned because he does not except
credit cards; only money orders. Has
> anyone dealth with this guy
before?
> Thanks
>
> Justin Sturgeon
> 91 Stealth
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:10:49
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Well my mechanic is
telling me that I need to replace the transmission. He
said he could
change out the fluid and filter but it would stop working in
less than a mile
down the road. I am just unsure about this... See when I
got back the
car got into reverse and drive (it took about a second or two
longer to fall
into gear though) so maybe I should have them drop it and
just replace
whatever is worn down, (clutch packs?)...BUT the shop is
saying that
the parts will run too expensive? I guess what I'm trying to
get at is
has anyone had tranny problems and gotten away with having a shop
rebuild it
cheaper than just putting in another one?
The shop has found a "USED"
tranny that I can get for $1,000 plus $375
labor. I thought I
remembered someone saying I could find a used tranny for
$5-600. I will
be calling M&S tomorrow, but just wanted to ask if anyone
has one for
sale or knows where I can get a quality tranny in the 5-6 range?
It's for a
1991 Stealth SOHC with an Automatic and FWD. One other
question,
are all first gen stealth auto trans. the same? or do I need to
look
for a 91 only?
I just want to make an "Educated" choice, and will take
all the advice you
have.
Thanks again list members...
-
-Erik
> Now, assuming that the tranny must be rebuilt/replaced, the
most important
> thing you can do is once the new/rebuilt tranny is in
place, be ABSOLUTLEY
> sure that they use nothing but ATF +3/Type 7176.
The Chrysler ATF/Mitsu
> Diamond ATF is the same service grade. It has
friction modifiers that will
> let the clutch packs live a proper life,
Dexron, Mercon, Type-A, Type-F Do
> not have this friction modifier, and
you will be experiencing the same
> problem in a few months. If you are
unsure about the fluid they use, flush
> the entire case and put in the
ATF +3 yourself, I have blown up 2 trannies
> and now change the fluid
every 4 months.
>
> Matt
> 3/Si #311
> '93 R/T
>
'00 Intrepid
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 23:09:00
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Sounds like a good time
for the manual tranny swap to me...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Erik Petterson
Sent:
Wednesday, May 15, 2002 11:11 PM
To: Stealth List
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Well my mechanic is telling me that I
need to replace the transmission.
He
said he could change out the fluid
and filter but it would stop working
in
less than a mile down the
road. I am just unsure about this... See when
I
got back the car got
into reverse and drive (it took about a second or
two
longer to fall into
gear though) so maybe I should have them drop it and
just replace whatever is
worn down, (clutch packs?)...BUT the shop is
saying that the parts will
run too expensive? I guess what I'm trying
to
get at is has anyone
had tranny problems and gotten away with having a
shop
rebuild it cheaper
than just putting in another one?
The shop has found a "USED" tranny that
I can get for $1,000 plus $375
labor. I thought I remembered someone
saying I could find a used tranny
for
$5-600. I will be calling
M&S tomorrow, but just wanted to ask if
anyone
has one for sale or
knows where I can get a quality tranny in the 5-6
range?
It's for a 1991
Stealth SOHC with an Automatic and FWD. One other
question, are
all first gen stealth auto trans. the same? or do I need
to
look for
a 91 only?
I just want to make an "Educated" choice, and will take all
the advice
you
have.
Thanks again list members...
-
-Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 01:23:42
-0400
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
When mine blew, I got
them from Talahassee Mitsubishi. The Reman. auto was
under 2 grand, with
shipping, and with install, the total job was ~2500. If
you have burned fluid
and the first sign was that you were in drive and the
tranny started to slip,
you probably have work clutch discs and therefor
will need a rebuild or a new
tranny. The end clutch is notoriously bad on
these gearboxes and the DSM A/T
guys have a replacement for it, with an
upgraded clutch disc. When and if you
replace or rebuild the tranny, look up
the A/T DSM group and see what they
say as far as an upgraded end clutch. I
would have done it myself, but right
after I blew the last gearbox, I parked
my Stealth until I am done with
school and can rebuild everything. Any more
questions, contact
me.
Matt
3/Si #311
'93 R/T
'00 Intrepid
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:30:03
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Help: Car won't start
Chris-
Same here. My spark is weak too. Car
still runs great though. And you are
getting fuel? Have you tried taking the
"Y" pipe off and spraying starting
fluid straight into the throttle body,
then cranking?
****************************************
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Cook
[mailto:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:10 AM
To:
Riyan Mynuddin
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't
start
Ok...This is what seems OK:
All checked according to
Service Manual. All Tests in manual performed:
- -Spark Plug Wires
(resistance is a bit higher than stock, but
they've
always been as they're magnecores --right?)
- -Ignition Coils: Both
Primary and Secondary resistance w/in spec
- -Power Transistor: Passes
service manuals tests
- - B+ at Ignition Coils: Good
-
-Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensor (One in the same for '92): Good
-
-Engine Coolant Sensor and harness: Good
- -"Engine" Fuse Good
So,
I'm beginning to think that either A) My Spark Plugs are really hosed.
B) The
ECU I got from Foreignecurepair.com is not good.
I replaced my plugs at
80,000 miles and now I'm at 117,000. I was going
to do a plug change
soon anyway, but is it likely that I can't start the
car due to bad
plugs? When I replaced them, I used the NGK Double
Platinums.
When I put a plug on the block and ground it...sometimes there
is spark, and
when there is...It appears very weak. Not the normal *SNAP*
I'm used
to. What would be causing this...especially since the coils and
power
transistor check out fine.
<cut>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 00:16:59
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
And a turbo engine,
LOL!
Philip
At 00:09 5/16/2002, cody wrote:
>Sounds like a
good time for the manual tranny swap to
me...
>
>-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 05:54:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AIG Insurance
I'm checking price quotes for car insurance and AIG
is
coming in low - real low. Has anyone had good/bad
experience with
this company?
Thanks
Glenn
'93 vr-4 and 3 other
cars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 08:33:50
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken Rotor pix
With the help of Bob Forrest I put up photos
from my broken rotor incident.
Go to
www.bazillionbooks.com/brokenrotor.htmThanks
to Bob for shrinking down the pix so the page is easier to load.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 08:45:43
-0500
From: "Dustin Lenz" <
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3s: Variable Resistor Coolant Temp Sensor
I just
checked the archives for this but didn't find anything.
While eating crab
legs last night, our waiter noticed my VR-4, said he has
an R/T TT, goes to
UTI and knows a $1 mod. He described it as a Variable
Resistor Coolant
Temp Sensor which gives approximately 30 HP. I'm like
"yeah, yeah" but I do
want to know if and why this would/wouldn't work.
Any
comments/explanations?
- -Dustin
Red 97 VR-4
Millenium Falcon Mod,
Mouse Mod
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 08:52:12
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3s: Variable Resistor Coolant Temp Sensor
I did this
once on a different car. It basically fools the ECU into
thinking the
coolant is cooler, and runs different fuel and spark curves. I
don't think
it works very well.
At 08:45 AM 5/16/02 -0500, Dustin Lenz
wrote:
>I just checked the archives for this but didn't find
anything.
>
>While eating crab legs last night, our waiter noticed
my VR-4, said he has
>an R/T TT, goes to UTI and knows a $1 mod. He
described it as a Variable
>Resistor Coolant Temp Sensor which gives
approximately 30 HP. I'm like
>"yeah, yeah" but I do want to know if and
why this would/wouldn't work.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:03:52
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: DSM (was
Re: Team3S: ecu rebuild)
I've been wondering for a while now what DSM
stands for. I'm thinking it
relates to the Eclipse/Talon cars. I did a
little searching and have yet to
have an answer. I'm applying the old adage
that the only stupid question is
one that is never
asked.
Thanks.
At 06:35 PM 5/15/02 , you wrote:
>I was
looking for ECU rebuild sits and came across
www.fulllogic.com From
>their
website it looks like they have a $250 special for any Mitsubishi ECU
>-
hopefully this works for a 3/S and not only DSMs!
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 09:25:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: DSM (was Re: Team3S: ecu rebuild)
... as in Diamond Star Motors? or
are you speaking in an abstract sense?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Michael Gerhard [SMTP:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:04 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: DSM (was Re: Team3S: ecu rebuild)
>
> I've been wondering
for a while now what DSM stands for. I'm thinking it
> relates to the
Eclipse/Talon cars. I did a little searching and have yet
> to
>
have an answer. I'm applying the old adage that the only stupid question
>
is
> one that is never asked.
>
> Thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:43:06
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Broken Rotor pix
Looking at the location of your water line in
the one picture I would
suspect that it may be a serious contender for the
cause, or at least a
contributor to the failure. It's a little hard to tell
in the picture but it
sure looks to be aimed right at the area of the rotor
where the crack
occurred. That kind of thermal shock in an high stress area
could be
your culprit. Of course your propensity to wear them down to the
thickness of a beer can material is an issue also.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
With the help of Bob Forrest I put up photos from my broken rotor
incident.
> Go to
www.bazillionbooks.com/brokenrotor.htm>
> Thanks to Bob for shrinking down the pix so the page is easier to load.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:52:18
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
I'm definatly getting fuel.
Havn't tried spraying starting fluid into the
throttle body yet. But,
why should I need to do this. The car /was/
running fine before all
this happened? Also, any particular starting
fluid better than
another. I don't think I have any Ether left :)
- --Chris
On
Wed, 15 May 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> Chris-
>
> Same
here. My spark is weak too. Car still runs great though. And you are
>
getting fuel? Have you tried taking the "Y" pipe off and spraying
starting
> fluid straight into the throttle body, then cranking?
>
****************************************
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Chris Cook [mailto:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:10 AM
> To: Riyan Mynuddin
> Cc:
Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't
start
>
>
> Ok...This is what seems OK:
>
> All
checked according to Service Manual. All Tests in manual
performed:
>
> -Spark Plug Wires (resistance is a bit higher than
stock, but
they've
>
always been as they're magnecores --right?)
>
> -Ignition
Coils: Both Primary and Secondary resistance w/in spec
>
>
-Power Transistor: Passes service manuals tests
>
> - B+ at Ignition
Coils: Good
>
> -Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensor (One in the
same for '92): Good
>
> -Engine Coolant Sensor and harness:
Good
>
> -"Engine" Fuse Good
>
> So, I'm beginning to
think that either A) My Spark Plugs are really hosed.
> B) The ECU I got
from Foreignecurepair.com is not good.
>
> I replaced my plugs at
80,000 miles and now I'm at 117,000. I was going
> to do a plug
change soon anyway, but is it likely that I can't start the
> car due to
bad plugs? When I replaced them, I used the NGK Double
>
Platinums. When I put a plug on the block and ground it...sometimes
there
> is spark, and when there is...It appears very weak. Not the
normal *SNAP*
> I'm used to. What would be causing this...especially
since the coils and
> power transistor check out fine.
>
<cut>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 12:45:29
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3s: Variable Resistor Coolant Temp Sensor
> I did
this once on a different car. It basically fools the ECU into
> thinking
the coolant is cooler, and runs different fuel and spark curves.
I
>
don't think it works very well.
It is actually counter-productive if your
car is already getting enough
fuel. At lower than normal operating
temperature coolant the car injects
additional fuel, kinda like a
choke. Since these cars already run pretty
rich in stock form, adding
more fuel will decrease power.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#842
***************************************