Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, May 15
2002 Volume 01 : Number
841
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 May 2002 09:42:39 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help, Car will start but runs very rough
I suspect the
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), especially if it cuts out at
the same
relative pedal position without regard to rpm (different rpm in
different
gears). The TPS is just a rheostat (variable resistor) that has a
wiper that
moves across a swath of graphite. When the graphite gets worn
off a
certain spot, I think it shorts so the ECU thinks you are at the
zero
position. Check the resistance of the TPS with an analog voltmeter
as you
rotate it through it's range, and se if the resistance changes
smoothly or
jumps at some spot.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Brad Younkman [SMTP:byounkman@cox.net]
> Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 9:36 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Need Help, Car will start but runs very rough
>
>
Hey Everyone
>
> Here's the problem: The car starts fine and idles
fine. When I accelerate
> the ignition cuts out for a brief second all the
way up through the rpm
> range.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:41:08
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?
This double"o"bondo is well
known for his shafting shenanigans.
You can find a rating page on 3si and
there is plenty of talk about
how he shafted one person or another.
- ----
Original Message ----
From:
wjcrabtree@earthlink.netTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:05:22
-0500
>OOPS....
>
>I forgot to mention that this person
has postings to the 3SI.org
>classified
>boards and goes by the
email/username:
>
>double0bondo@adelphia.net
>
>Beware!!
>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
>To:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 9:53 AM
>Subject: Team3S: Does anybody know this
person?
>
>> Sorry for the off topic. Looks like I've been
ripped off for $300
>( I was
>> supposed to get a used steering
rack and P/S pump).
>>
>> Does anybody
know:
>>
>> Michael OR Andrew Garand
>> 7818 Ryder
Ave
>> South Glens Falls, NY 12803
>>
>>
OR
>>
>> Wreckamended Auto Service
>> 152
Broadway
>> Fort Edward, NY 12828
>>
518-747-0166
>>
>> IF you know any of the FINE UPSTANDING
FOLKS or if you live in the
>N/E
>> section of NY, please,
please, please Email me privately.
>>
>> I am contacting the
FBI interenet fraud and several other agencies
>about
>>
them.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> -Jeff
Crabtree
>> '91 R/T
TT(3SI#0499)
>>
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
>>
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:41:52
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
OT: Thermostat Housing Gasket Problem
Chuck --- The thermostat I
installed had an 'O' ring type gasket with a groove
in it that fit around the
metal disk that forms part of the frame for the thermostat.
I got the
thermostat from a parts house rather than the dealer ---- the parts
looked
identical down to location and shape of the spot welds. The dealer
wanted a
ton of money --- maybe $70 while the parts store wanted $20.
I found the
old email:
=========================================================
FWIW
---- the thermostat went out on my 93 TT yesterday so I embarked on
a quest
to find a new thermostat --- ye Gods, the great Satan wanted $60 US.
Who in
the hell are these people and why do they hate me ?!?!?!?
Several auto
parts outfits didn't show a replacement but I found one in a local
shop ---
it looks identical to the stock unit down to the spot welds ---
price,
$17.
The moral of the story is --- don't use satan, look
around.
=========================================================
Jim Berry
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Jim,
>
> When I replaced the thermostat on my 1st gen VR4, it had a
metal gasket
> between the housing cover and the block. When I tried
to replace the gasket
> at Mitsu, the dealer said it was
discontinued. I believe there is no gasket
> on the thermostat on my
2nd gen VR4. Could the thermostat you replaced have
> been
aftermarket?
>
> Chuck
> (possible reason for temperature
excursions at high boost and aggressive
> driving?)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:47:50
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad
Leak Down
> ...or it could've been a problem with GT Pro building the
motor or their
> machine shop didn't machine the bores right.
Considering the quality of
> workmanship that GT Pro performed on my car,
I'd be skeptical that they
> could properly do a motor rebuild.
-
---------------------------------------------------------------
Matt,
Care
to expound on your problems and experience?
Was this before or
after your pistons went south?
I hope you didn't decide to port your
heads ......:|
[yes - there is yet another story there but I will only
refer you
to .org archives]
There can be a lot of money at stake when
it comes
to rebuild projects etc I think it's helpful if owners have
as
much data in hand as possible beforehand ....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:52:08
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
COMPRESSION TEST:
A
peak-hold pressure gauge is screwed into the cylinder head in place of
the
spark plug. All other spark plugs are either removed or not connected
to the
wires (so that the engine does not fire). Spin the engine with the
starter
and take gauge readings.
LEAKDOWN TEST:
A special leakdown tool is
used. Its probe is screwed into the cylinder
head in place of the spark plug.
The engine should be at the end of the
compression cycle on that cylinder, so
that both intake and exhaust valves
are closed. The piston is brought as
close as possible to the TDC but not
past it. The last motion of the piston
should be up, so that the rings sit
on the lower part of the ring grooves.
The leakdown tool pressurizes the
cylinder with 15 psi of air pressure and
gives a reading. A 10% or lower
leak is satisfactory.
BOTH
TESTS:
Both tests check the condition of the compression rings, the
cylinder
bores, the valves and valve seats, and the head gasket. If bubbles
are
coming out of the radiator fill cap, or the coolant level is rising
during
any of the two tests, then the head gasket is bad.
The
compression test is a dynamic test. It is more representative of
actual
engine operation. It is best at measuring the condition of the
compression
rings and the cylinder bore. It is not very sensitive to minor
valve leaks
though because the test is performed on an engine that turn
relatively fast.
The lifters have to be completely pumped up for this test
to be
successful.
The leakdown test is a static test. It is best at measuring
valve leaks
but it evaluates the condition of the compression rings and the
cylinder
bore as well. It is a more interesting test because it allows
some
troubleshooting. An excessive leak could be traced to one or more of
the
valves or the piston rings.
If a leak is heard in either the
intake or the exhaust port then the
valves are leaking. Pour some water or
kerosine into the port when the
valves are closed and there is air pressure
inside the cylinder and watch
which of the valves is bubbling. Plug up the
leaky port with a plug and run
a hose through that plug into a
bucket with
water. Pressurize the cylinder with 15 psi and measure the
volume of bubbles
with a measurement cup. Anything under 300 - 600
cc/minute is satisfactory.
Above 1000 cc/min - bad. If a couple of ounces
of oil placed into the
cylinder through the spark
plug hole stops the leak the problem is the
rings.
Philip
-
--------------------------------------------------
Could someone explain
the difference and importance of both leak down
and compression tests?
How are the two tests performed? I've always
know that the tests are
important to view the life of the engine, but
never fully understood what
they are and represent.
Thanks
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:56:43
-0500
From: <
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>
Subject:
Team3S: exhaust & brake question
I recently acquired a 92 3000 GT
SL. It needs front rotors. I was looking
at the powerslot rotors
available from 3sx Performance. Any comments on
the rotors or the
company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper place to
get them?
How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they advertise? I do
not intend
to go racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for race
quality
parts. I intend to have a dignified mid life crisis! The
exhaust
question: what is precat & cat back? can't find the terms
in the acronym
list.
Thanks in advance
Jim W
92 3000GT
SL
FIPK (so far, only had it a month)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 11:17:05
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
exhaust & brake question
Hi Jim,
Welcome to the 3000GT/Stealth
world. Steve at 3SX is a good guy and is
very helpful. I've had
great experiences with him. Powerslot rotors
are pretty good and more
than adequate for the road. If looks are of
interest to you, you might
want cross drilled rotors, but on the street,
both slots and cross drilling
is more for looks. The stillen metal
matrix pads are also a fine
choice for the streets. If you plan on
running the car a little harder
than most and plan on needing a little
more streetable stopping power, you
can check out Porterfield R4S street
pads. Lots of people run those
with great results.
Precats are catalytic converters located right below
the exhaust
manifold before the downpipe (connects the two precats together
and
merges into the main cat). Cat back exhausts usually refer to an
aftermarket exhaust such as Borla, ATR, or HKS that attaches to the back
of the cat and out towards the back of the car.
Hope this
helps.
Damon
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com
wrote:
> I recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front
rotors. I was looking
> at the powerslot rotors available from 3sx
Performance. Any comments on
> the rotors or the company? Any
discount here or a better/cheaper place to
> get them? How about the
Stillen metal matrix pads they advertise? I do
> not intend to go
racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for race
> quality
parts. I intend to have a dignified mid life crisis! The
exhaust
> question: what is precat & cat back? can't find the
terms in the acronym
> list.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim W
> 92 3000GT SL
> FIPK (so far, only had it a
month)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:13:56
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
Todd,
Is porting the
heads not a good mod for these engines ?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
May 14, 2002 11:48 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad
Leak Down
> ...or it could've been a problem with GT Pro building the
motor or their
> machine shop didn't machine the bores right.
Considering the quality of
> workmanship that GT Pro performed on my car,
I'd be skeptical that they
> could properly do a motor rebuild.
-
---------------------------------------------------------------
Matt,
Care
to expound on your problems and experience?
Was this before or
after your pistons went south?
I hope you didn't decide to port your
heads ......:|
[yes - there is yet another story there but I will only
refer you
to .org archives]
There can be a lot of money at stake when
it comes
to rebuild projects etc I think it's helpful if owners have
as
much data in hand as possible beforehand ....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:37:38
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
At 12:56 PM 5/14/02 -0500,
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com
wrote:
>I recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front
rotors. I was looking
>at the powerslot rotors available from 3sx
Performance. Any comments on
>the rotors or the company?
They break under racing conditions. I know, cuz I broke two of them.
Sure look pretty until they break.
Any discount here or a
better/cheaper place to
>get them?
Get stock rotors from
Zimmerman.
How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they advertise?
I do
>not intend to go racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for
race
>quality parts.
Stock pads will do just fine if
you are not racing.
Take it to Denny's Mufflers on 16th St SW. Tell 'em Rich
sent you.
They know our cars backwards and forwards. They are perhaps the
ONLY shop in town that will work on our cars without screwing
you.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:54:58
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark plug and ignition wire change
My spark plug and ignition
wire change seems to have made a difference. My
seat-of-the-pants meter
notices smoother acceleration. Whether or not it is
any faster is something
I'll have to get the G-Tech Pro to confirm.
I took several pictures of
the condition of the old plugs and will post
those to a website when I'm
finished composing the pages.
About the only problem I ran into is that
the 8mm wires don't want to fit
into the stock looms. I Dremeled some of them
to fit and then used some
auxiliary wire separators to keep things
clean.
I will be pulling the plugs and wires here after several tanks of
gas to
monitor their condition. I will also test the stock wires vs. the
Crane Cam
wires to see if they measure out any different on the
multimeter.
Next comes the silicone hose replacement. Which hoses should
NOT be replaced
with the silicone ones?
I also finally found the
schematic for the radio/amplifier buried deep in
the CD-ROM manual. It shows
that the speakers are all wired in parallel but
doesn't give much
info.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum
hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:48:41
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
> Care to expound on
your problems and experience?
> Was this before or after your pistons went
south?
> I hope you didn't decide to port your heads ......:|
GT
Pro worked on my car before the pistons went south. They replaced
the
timing belt, water pump, belts, one motor mount and installed a pair of
HKS
intercoolers and hard pipe kit. They also tuned my
ARC-2.
The 60K stuff seemed to be done properly, although the tensioner
was
slightly (not much) out of adjustment when I disassembled the motor about
a
thousand miles after the repair.
The intercoolers were a slightly
different story. On the HKS intercoolers
there are three mounting
bosses on the end tanks. Two of them are bolted to
a bracket that holds
them on the 2G cars. The other boss must be for
mounting on 1G cars or
something along those lines. GT Pro didn't put any
bolts in that third
boss - and the boss's hole goes clear into the endtank -
so both intercoolers
had dime-sized holes on the lower edge of the
intercooler. On boost
they were blowing air out, and on vacuum they were
sucking in
unfiltered/unmetered air. I didn't immediately notice
this
condition. Also, there were several places on the powdercoated HKS
pipes
where they were seriously scratched during installation. There
were also
various nuts and bolts missing from the front bumper cover,
undercovers and
A/C piping clamps. Not the best attention to
detail. :-(
Shortly after getting the car back I took one of the
local 3/S club members
for a ride in the car and accelerated hard down an
onramp through the first
three gears. Through all three gears the ARM-1
meter showed full rich.
Upon letting off the throttle at the top of 3rd gear
to shift into 4th gear
and slow down, we heard a boom and some not-so-nice
sounds from the motor.
I pulled over, checked to see if any of the
intercooler pipes blew off, etc.
The car was running on maybe four
cylinders. We limped it to Oskar's house
(the guy riding with me) about
a mile away. Upon removing the spark plugs
in the rear bank, the
electrodes were smushed down onto the center conductor
(Denso Irridium
plugs).
We replaced the plugs with standard stock NGK's and the car ran
fine. I
found the holes in the intercoolers by using a homemade
pressure tester and
pressurizing the intake (or, rather, trying to pressurize
it). About a week
later a similar thing happened and I decided to tear
down the motor and see
what was going on. Result: Three broken
pistons.
> There can be a lot of money at stake when it comes
>
to rebuild projects etc I think it's helpful if owners have as
>
much data in hand as possible beforehand ....
Was my motor's demise the
fault of GT Pro? I don't know for sure. I do
know that they did
improperly install components on my car, which may have
contributed to the
problem.
Would I go there again, or order parts from them again?
Probably not.
Would I send my motor or my car to them to have the motor
rebuilt? I don't
think that they have the necessary attention to detail
required to do the
job correctly.
Oh, and the question about whether I
had my heads ported? No, not at all.
I wasn't convinced that I or my
head shop would be able to do better than
the factory. My head shop
(Headwerks in Bloomington, MN) cautioned me
against modifying the ports
saying that most of the modifications they had
seen done to these heads
resulted in less velocity and decreased efficiency.
Those guys are good, and
I trust their recommendations. They did excellent
work on the block and
repairing my damaged heads.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
$7000
lesson learned the hard way
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:13:55
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dash board removal...
Does anybody have any info on removing the
dash? I will be doing this
this weekend and any additional info on this would
be very
helpfull....maybe a stealth316 type info
site?
bobk.
9399R/T
cracked vents going away! new guages and S-AFC
going in
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:28:31
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Well good news I
guess. I ended up renting a 14' uhaul truck and a car
dolly. Got
back to phoenix ok and when I dropped it off at the shop the
next day I was
able to get it into reverse to back it off the ramps and then
it even shifted
into drive to park it in the bay!!!! Stupid car! It was
very
sluggish though when it shifted into gear. I am thinking that the
fluid
was so bad it had clogged up the filter and all the rattling around on
the
trailer on the way home freed up some sludge from the filter. We'll
see
what the verdict is.
Thanks again 3S members.
She'll be
back on the road in no time.
- -Erik
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
erik@Microworks.net>; "'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, May
12, 2002 9:36 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost
gears.
> I was just thinking about this too. But in his initial post
he indicated
> that the car was switching back an forth by itself and
eventually settled
> in the 3rd gear (usually the limp mode gear) and then
died completely. The
> smoke and and the brown fluid is another indication
that it is not as
> simple as just a cable.
>
> But it never
hurts to check everything. I fixed an auto transmission once
> by simply
lubricating the throttle cable. Unfortunately there seems to be
a
>
real failure in this case.
>
> Erik, you can get a U-Haul trailer
lust like you described, or you could
> call you friends to come with a
tow rope and tow you home on a rope. You
> have to have the engine running
all the way while on the rope for the
power
> brakes and steering to
work.
>
> Philip
>
> At 12:01 5/12/2002, cody
wrote:
> >Question... Have we checked the actual cable that
selects gears... I
> >would think there is a mild possibility
that cable broke...
> >
> >Just something to check
first...
> >
> >-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:33:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
> I am
thinking that the
> fluid was so bad it had clogged up the filter and all
the rattling around
> on
> the trailer on the way home freed up some
sludge from the filter. We'll
> see
> what the verdict
is.
>
[Willis, Charles E.] Erik has discovered a new method for
repairing
a clogged auto tranny filter! The UHaul treatment!
We
all have scars from the lessons these cars have taught us!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:35:07
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Yes, and they are all on
my credit card ! !
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002
1:33 PM
To: 'Erik Petterson'; 'Team3S'; Philip V. Glazatov
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
> I am thinking that
the
> fluid was so bad it had clogged up the filter and all the rattling
around
> on
> the trailer on the way home freed up some sludge from
the filter. We'll
> see
> what the verdict is.
>
[Willis, Charles E.] Erik has discovered a new method for
repairing
a clogged auto tranny filter! The UHaul treatment!
We
all have scars from the lessons these cars have taught us!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:36:08
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
I have heard many people
complain about poor leak down tests with the Total
Seal rings. Not just
with our cars either. I'm not saying that everyone
that has them will
have bad results, but there are allot of people who have
had this same
problem with these rings.
Paul
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@cox.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad
Leak Down
> Yes, they are total seal rings with Ross
pistons.
>
> on 5/13/02 10:03 PM, Paul Prentis at
paul@ppeengineering.com
wrote:
>
> > Do you by chance have total seal gap-less piston
rings?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
"Rich Fowler" <
richfowler2@cox.net>
> > To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:40 PM
> > Subject: Team3S: Good
Compression - Bad Leak Down
> >
> >> I had my trusted
mechanic do a compression and leak down test on my
motor
> >> the
other day and the compression numbers were good, all around 155.
The
>
>> leak down showed two cylinders (one on each bank) with 20-25%
loss.
The
> >> others were 5% loss.......
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:40:42
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dash board removal...
How about an exact stealth316 type info
site :)
Jeff has on his page:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dashpanel.htmNot
difficult, just kind of time consuming.
- --Chris Cook
On Tue, 14
May 2002, ek2mfg wrote:
> Does anybody have any info on removing the
dash? I will be doing this
> this weekend and any additional info on this
would be very
> helpfull....maybe a stealth316 type info
site?
>
> bobk.
> 9399R/T
> cracked vents going away!
new guages and S-AFC going in
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:47:42
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S: Good
Compression - Bad Leak Down
> Todd,
>
> Is porting the
heads not a good mod for these engines ?
-
---------------------------------------------
Not unless the job is done
correctly.
Matt (DR) and I both had a bad experience
with some heads
we wanted to try. There are pics and
info posted in the archives of
3SI.org from
not too long ago. (a few months)
I continued on with my
Extrude Honed heads at
the end of the day ....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tdsThis
message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 12:58:32
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Where can I buy a MAF meter?
I want to replace my stock air meter
with a MAF meter. I want to use an
Apexi AFC. The only MAF meter
that I have seen so far comes in the ARC-2
kit. Are there any retailers
that sell just the MAF meter?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
Many mods in
the works
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:05:01
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dash board removal...
I once again have questioned the
infamous Jeff Lucious and have come
up short.....my appologies to you for not
checking there first
assuming it wasn't there (it's so hard to cruise your
site and keep
under the radar with those big butted girls on each side of
my
screen) thanks again for a well done site.....DOH!
"....I find your
lack of faith in the force disturbing" ---- Jeff L.
to Bob K. with his
fingers in a pinching motion as Bob K. chokes on
his own
tongue.
Bobk.
9399R/T
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
tektronix@linuxpower.cxTo:
ek2mfg@foxinternet.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Dash board removal...
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:40:42 -0400
(EDT)
>How about an exact stealth316 type info site :)
>
>
Jeff has on his
page:
>
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-dashpanel.htm
>
>
>Not
difficult, just kind of time consuming.
>
>--Chris
Cook
>
>On Tue, 14 May 2002, ek2mfg wrote:
>
>> Does
anybody have any info on removing the dash? I will be doing
>this
>> this weekend and any additional info on this would be
very
>> helpfull....maybe a stealth316 type info
site?
>>
>> bobk.
>> 9399R/T
>> cracked
vents going away! new guages and S-AFC going in
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:07:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dash board removal...
Technical content - Please tell us who
modeled for the girl mechanic - many
of us may be desperate for a fluid
changeout and need a competant female
mechanic!
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: ek2mfg [SMTP:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 3:05 PM
> To:
tektronix@linuxpower.cx;
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dash board removal...
>
> (it's so hard to
cruise your site and keep
> under the radar with those big butted girls on
each side of my
> screen) thanks again for a well done
site.....DOH!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:14:58
-0400
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Now, assuming that
the tranny must be rebuilt/replaced, the most important
thing you can do is
once the new/rebuilt tranny is in place, be ABSOLUTLEY
sure that they use
nothing but ATF +3/Type 7176. The Chrysler ATF/Mitsu
Diamond ATF is the same
service grade. It has friction modifiers that will
let the clutch packs live
a proper life, Dexron, Mercon, Type-A, Type-F Do
not have this friction
modifier, and you will be experiencing the same
problem in a few months. If
you are unsure about the fluid they use, flush
the entire case and put in the
ATF +3 yourself, I have blown up 2 trannies
and now change the fluid every 4
months.
Matt
3/Si #311
'93 R/T
'00 Intrepid
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:22:00
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sparco Torinos in a 3/S? (Possibly for sale)
All -
Has anyone put Sparco Torino seats in their 3/S?
I just got a set
of Sparco Torinos in the mail yesterday. They're a pretty
amazing combination
of comfort and support, and I love sitting in them! The
problem is that the
Sparco base/slider system puts the seat significantly
higher than the stock
seat. Could be a couple of inches, or it could be more
- - I'll do some
measurements tonight. The seat in my car is GREAT for my
friend who's 5'8",
but for my 6'2" frame, it's too high. My eyeline is about
at the top of the
windshield, and my head bumps the ceiling.
Has anyone found a way to
make the seats sit lower? I think if I did a bit
of hacksawing on the
bars that attach the slider to the floor bracket, I
could lower it about an
inch. I'm not sure whether this would be enough
though. Any other
ideas, tried out or not?
Alas...if I can't figure out a way to make the
Sparcos sit lower, then I'm
gonna have to find an average-height 3/Ser to
sell the seats to.
I'm open to suggestions!
Thanks,
- -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:59:53
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AWD Trans internal Pic's
If you ever eanted to see what the gears
in a AWD transmission looked like
......
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-127F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-128F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-129F.JPGhttp://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-130F.JPG***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 16:34:24
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche Big Red calipers
Wow! Even the Porsche dealer
doesn't know the answer to this one.
Q: How many rebuilding kits do I
need for a 94+ Twin Turbo 993/996 Big Red caliper?
It has four pistons,
but the dealer doesn't know if I need one kit per piston or one kit for the
upper pistons and one kit for the lower pistons.
Does anyone know?
At
$33 per kit, it can get downright expensive to rebuild eight pistons in two
calipers. Shoot, it would almost be cheaper to buy a new caliper at $250 than it
is to rebuild 'em. This can't be right.
Please respond off list if you
know:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netRich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:49:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Rebuilding Porsche Big Red calipers
Call another
dealer, hoping to get one with a clue?
On Tue, 14 May 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> Wow! Even the Porsche dealer doesn't know the answer to this
one.
>
> Q: How many rebuilding kits do I need for a 94+ Twin Turbo
993/996 Big Red caliper?
>
> It has four pistons, but the dealer
doesn't know if I need one kit per piston or one kit for the upper pistons and
one kit for the lower pistons.
>
> Does anyone know?
> At $33
per kit, it can get downright expensive to rebuild eight pistons in two
calipers. Shoot, it would almost be cheaper to buy a new caliper at $250 than it
is to rebuild 'em. This can't be right.
>
> Please respond off
list if you know:
>
>
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> Rich
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:51:57
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Rebuilding Porsche Big Red
calipers
Rich,
Call Chris at Performance Products
800-423-3173
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 3:49
PM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
opentracking@topica.comSubject:
Re: 3S-Racers: Rebuilding Porsche Big Red calipers
Call another dealer,
hoping to get one with a clue?
On Tue, 14 May 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> Wow! Even the Porsche dealer doesn't know the answer to this
one.
>
> Q: How many rebuilding kits do I need for a 94+ Twin Turbo
993/996 Big Red
caliper?
>
> It has four pistons, but the dealer
doesn't know if I need one kit per
piston or one kit for the upper pistons
and one kit for the lower pistons.
>
> Does anyone know?
> At
$33 per kit, it can get downright expensive to rebuild eight pistons in
two
calipers. Shoot, it would almost be cheaper to buy a new caliper at $250
than
it is to rebuild 'em. This can't be right.
>
> Please respond off
list if you know:
>
>
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> Rich
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 23:45:30
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person? (ADMIN MESSAGE)
Ok, a warnign
is said and now please keep this off the list.
Thanks
Roger for the
admins
> This double"o"bondo is well known for his shafting
shenanigans.
> You can find a rating page on 3si and there is plenty of
talk about
> how he shafted one person or another.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:42:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
if you're not going racing, then
why do you need expensive rotors? For an
SL you may be able to get them
at the O'Reillys, Autozone, or NAPA store.
The Metal Matrix pads are slightly
more agressive than stock pads, but they
dust more than stock pads, if
appearance is important to you. You would be
smart to drain and refill
(and bleed) the brake fluid while you're doing
this.
Chuck
Willis
> I recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front
rotors. I was
> looking
> at the powerslot rotors available
from 3sx Performance. Any comments on
> the rotors or the
company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper place to
> get
them? How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they advertise? I
do
> not intend to go racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for
race
> quality parts.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 20:58:44
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Team3S: KINDA LONG!! AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR & BAROMETRIC
SENSOR.. PLEASE HELP..
My 93 stealth rt/tt check engine light has flashed
a few times the past few
days and i have occured a really bad stuttering and
popping/back fireing
comming fro mthe car. This goes on for a few minutes to
20 mins. Just
depends on how the car feels at that time. At my work I hooked
the computer
to a volt meter to read codes for me as our diagnostic computer
can not talk
to my computer system. i recieved codes 13 and 25. I went on our
TSB repair
(Mitchell on Demand) and found that these coeds are the air intake
temp
sencor and barometric sensor. I researched more and found that these
2
sensors are in one unit. problem is that I cannot find this sensor,, or
know
where it is located. I am sure this is my problem now that I can
conclude
that these 2 sensors help in the air/fuel mixture, and so
on.
this would also explain that my fuel air mixture gauge drops to
nothing
while this is happening. Is there anybody out there that can tell me
where
this sensor is located and how I can identify it. Please
help.
Thanks
Jerry 92 Stealth E/S & 93 Stealth
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:02:37
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: KINDA LONG!! AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR & BAROMETRIC
SENSOR.. PLEASE HELP..
They are both inside the MAS sensor. Probably bad
contacts. Maybe you MAS
loses ground?
Philip
At 20:58
5/14/2002, Jerry B. wrote:
>My 93 stealth rt/tt check engine light has
flashed a few times the past few
>days and i have occured a really bad
stuttering and popping/back fireing
>comming fro mthe car. This goes on
for a few minutes to 20 mins. Just
>depends on how the car feels at that
time. At my work I hooked the computer
>to a volt meter to read codes for
me as our diagnostic computer can not talk
>to my computer system. i
recieved codes 13 and 25. I went on our TSB repair
>(Mitchell on Demand)
and found that these coeds are the air intake temp
>sencor and barometric
sensor. I researched more and found that these 2
>sensors are in one unit.
problem is that I cannot find this sensor,, or know
>where it is located.
I am sure this is my problem now that I can conclude
>that these 2 sensors
help in the air/fuel mixture, and so on.
>
>this would also explain
that my fuel air mixture gauge drops to nothing
>while this is happening.
Is there anybody out there that can tell me where
>this sensor is located
and how I can identify it. Please help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 21:48:43
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Sparco Torinos in a 3/S? (Possibly for sale)
My seats are mounted
to "straps" of aluminum, which are bent to fit floor
contour so as to provide
a mounting surface for the sidemount seat brackets.
My fabricator did
them. Picture a piece of aluminum, maybe 1/4" thick,
maybe 2-4" thick,
each made a little different so as to mount the seat
brackets.
This mounts
the seats as low as possible, and you can adjust the seat angle
and height
via the sidemount brackets. No, it is not easy to adjust as you
have to
unbolt/move etc...but nobody drives my car but me, so tough ;)
Jack
T.
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com
[snips]
> Has anyone put Sparco Torino seats in 3/S?
> I got a set
of Sparco Torinos. The
> problem: Sparco base/slider system puts
seat significantly
> higher than stock...couple of inches+ . GREAT
for my
> friend 5'8"; my 6'2", it's too high. My eyeline is
> at top
of windshield, head bumps ceiling.
> Anyone found way to make seats
lower?
> if I can't figure out way to make Sparcos sit lower, I'm
>
gonna have to sell the seats. I'm open to suggestions!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 23:21:29
-0400
From: Mike Chapleski <
michael.chapleski@verizon.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Moving APS Pump
Has anyone tried to move the ABS pump? I
would really like to use the
area where it is located to get some cool
outside air into the intake.
After removing the battery and wiper fluid
bottle, it looks like it will
fit there. After figuring out the
mounting, seems I would only have to
bend the brake lines down under the
battery holder. After bending each
line to the proper connector
location, just cut and flair the line. Not
that easy, but then not
exactly that difficult. I could get one of the
European headlight
washers to replace the removed wiper bottle. Doable?
Mike
Chapleski
'95 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 23:07:25
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AWD Trans internal Pic's
Damn...somebody got to posting them
before I did. I just rebuilt my WHOLE
tranny not too long ago with John
Adam's Help via e-mail. My intent was to
document my process in
detail. I haven't had time yet, but we did take ALOT
of Digital Pics
along the way.
KUDOS Alan for beating me to it.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 3:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: AWD Trans internal
Pic's
> If you ever eanted to see what the gears in a AWD transmission
looked like
>
>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-127F.JPG>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-128F.JPG>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-129F.JPG>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-130F.JPG***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:38:22
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche Big Red calipers
most kits include all
parts needed for a single caliper, but for my son's
Brembo calipers, we had
to purchase each part separately. My guess would be
that the kit from
the dealer will include all the stuff for one caliper -
that's what their
mechanics would need to do the job. Pistons themselves,
however would
be purchased separately.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 4:34
PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
>
opentracking@topica.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche Big Red calipers
>
> Wow! Even
the Porsche dealer doesn't know the answer to this one.
>
> Q: How
many rebuilding kits do I need for a 94+ Twin Turbo 993/996 Big Red
>
caliper?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 07:07:28
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
AWD Trans internal Pic's
Jeff Lucius has had a writeup and pictures on
his site for over a year, it
has become a good resource for information on
our cars. I've posted
transmission pictures and sent pictures to people 18
months ago --- the
use of the archives and the search function could save
folks a lot of trouble.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To:
"alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD Trans internal
Pic's
> Damn...somebody got to posting them before I did. I just
rebuilt my WHOLE
> tranny not too long ago with John Adam's Help via
e-mail. My intent was to
> document my process in detail. I
haven't had time yet, but we did take ALOT
> of Digital Pics along the
way.
>
> KUDOS Alan for beating me to it.
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 3:59 PM
> Subject: Team3S: AWD Trans internal
Pic's
>
> > If you ever eanted to see what the gears in a AWD
transmission looked like
> >
> >
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-127F.JPG>
>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-128F.JPG>
>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-129F.JPG>
>
http://www.mi3si.org/members/m0030/tranny/MVC-130F.JPG***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 07:50:35
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: exhaust & brake question
If you use NAPA ask for your triple
A discount. My local NAPA store had
stock rotors for my 93 awd tt that came
to 90 each after the discount.
Sounded like a good deal to
me.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:42 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake
question
| if you're not going racing, then why do you need expensive
rotors? For an
| SL you may be able to get them at the O'Reillys,
Autozone, or NAPA store.
| The Metal Matrix pads are slightly more agressive
than stock pads, but
they
| dust more than stock pads, if appearance is
important to you. You would
be
| smart to drain and refill (and
bleed) the brake fluid while you're doing
| this.
|
| Chuck
Willis
|
| > I recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front
rotors. I was
| > looking
| > at the powerslot rotors
available from 3sx Performance. Any comments on
| > the rotors or
the company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper place
to
| >
get them? How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they advertise? I
do
| > not intend to go racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for
race
| > quality parts.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 07:51:06
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
Folks...
A MAJOR second
to Chuck's comment about dust. I have used Porterfield
R4s on the track and
now have the Stillen Metal Matrix installed on all
four wheels. I can't make
a fifteen mile commute to work without having
my chrome wheels completely
gray, along with powder along the entire
bottom edge of the car. While I can
attest to the fact that stopping
power is indeed improved on the track, I'm
headed back to stock pads
next time around. All the fancy rotor and pad
setups should be
considered for open track use (IMO), there's little to be
gained on the
street or strip where you never even get them warmed up. Save
your
money, add larger injectors and a boost controller, the stock
brakes
were rated very high by all the rags when the 3KGT came
out.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:43 AM
To:
'jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
<snip>
The Metal Matrix
pads are slightly more agressive than stock pads, but
they
dust more than
stock pads, if appearance is important to you. <snip>
Chuck
Willis
> I recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front
rotors. I was
> looking
> at the powerslot rotors available
from 3sx Performance. Any comments
on
> the rotors or the
company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper
place to
> get
them? How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they advertise?
I
do
> not intend to go racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for
race
> quality parts.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:52:26
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake kits-no easy answers
A quick update on the brake rebuild
kits. (as you may recall, I asked for help figuring out what parts are needed to
rebuild the pistons in a Big Red Porsche caliper)
Turns out there are a
dozen or so different Big Red calipers from 94 to present day.
I need to find
out the exact part number on my brakes before I can order kits.
One
expert says it takes one kit per piston, or four kits per caliper.
Yikes!
I wouldn't fix the dang things if they weren't leaking and pushing
the seals out.
So, unless Brad comes through with a part number, I'll
pull the calipers this weekend and order parts accordingly.
Lessons:
1. The reasons my rubber seals are shot is because I am
generating too much heat in there, and literally cooking the caliper.
2. One
diagnosis is that I need a Porsche rotor to dissipate the heat
properly.
Before I spend $700 on a rotor, I'll see if I can't force air
in there with NASCAR blowers and run my water injection system to the calipers
instead of the rotors. There's gotta be another way.
Rich/slow old
poop
94 VR4 w/Big Red calipers
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:02:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
You had R4, or R4-S?
On
Wed, 15 May 2002, Chris Winkley wrote:
> Folks...
>
> A
MAJOR second to Chuck's comment about dust. I have used Porterfield
> R4s
on the track and now have the Stillen Metal Matrix installed on all
> four
wheels. I can't make a fifteen mile commute to work without having
> my
chrome wheels completely gray, along with powder along the entire
> bottom
edge of the car. While I can attest to the fact that stopping
> power is
indeed improved on the track, I'm headed back to stock pads
> next time
around. All the fancy rotor and pad setups should be
> considered for open
track use (IMO), there's little to be gained on the
> street or strip
where you never even get them warmed up. Save your
> money, add larger
injectors and a boost controller, the stock brakes
> were rated very high
by all the rags when the 3KGT came out.
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent:
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:43 AM
> To:
'jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
> <snip>
>
> The Metal Matrix pads are slightly more agressive than stock pads,
but
> they
> dust more than stock pads, if appearance is important
to you. <snip>
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> > I
recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front rotors. I
was
> > looking
> > at the powerslot rotors available from 3sx
Performance. Any comments
> on
> > the rotors or the
company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper
> place to
>
> get them? How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they
advertise? I
> do
> > not intend to go racing with it and
don't want to spend $$$ for race
> > quality parts.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:05:14
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
Geoff...
R4 pads, I put
them on specifically for an open track event. I've heard
the R4-S (street)
pads produce less dust, but for the "average" street
use car I don't know why
anyone would bother upgrading from stock rotors
and pads when the $$$ could
be spent on engine performance mods. I've
never experienced fade on the road,
even under conditions traveling from
Oregon to California at speeds in excess
of 145 mph. The R4 pads wore
out in one weekend session (although fun, it was
a VERY expensive
weekend) but covered the car with brake dust. I had also,
based on Rich
Merritt's experience, removed the dust shields. Afterwards I
put the
dust shields back on and thought I'd give the Stillen's a try, since
I
hoped they would produce less dust. I've never wiped it up and
weighed
it, so I don't know if I can accurately say "less", but it still
makes
my Glacier Pearl White beauty and ugly beast with a simple drive
across
town. Someone with a different color and non-chrome wheels might
not
notice the dust and some people might not even care.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 8:03
AM
To: Chris Winkley
Cc: Willis, Charles E.;
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
You had R4, or R4-S?
On
Wed, 15 May 2002, Chris Winkley wrote:
> Folks...
>
> A
MAJOR second to Chuck's comment about dust. I have used Porterfield
> R4s
on the track and now have the Stillen Metal Matrix installed on
all
>
four wheels. I can't make a fifteen mile commute to work
without
having
> my chrome wheels completely gray, along with powder
along the entire
> bottom edge of the car. While I can attest to the fact
that stopping
> power is indeed improved on the track, I'm headed back to
stock pads
> next time around. All the fancy rotor and pad setups should
be
> considered for open track use (IMO), there's little to be gained
on
the
> street or strip where you never even get them warmed up. Save
your
> money, add larger injectors and a boost controller, the stock
brakes
> were rated very high by all the rags when the 3KGT came
out.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002
11:43 AM
> To:
'jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
> <snip>
>
> The Metal Matrix pads are slightly more agressive than stock pads,
but
> they
> dust more than stock pads, if appearance is important
to you. <snip>
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> > I
recently acquired a 92 3000 GT SL. It needs front rotors. I
was
> > looking
> > at the powerslot rotors available from 3sx
Performance. Any
comments
> on
> > the rotors or the
company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper
> place to
>
> get them? How about the Stillen metal matrix pads they
advertise?
I
> do
> > not intend to go racing with it and
don't want to spend $$$ for race
> > quality parts.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:09:50
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
Ok...This is what seems OK:
All
checked according to Service Manual. All Tests in manual
performed:
- -Spark Plug Wires (resistance is a bit higher than stock,
but
they've
always been as they're magnecores --right?)
- -Ignition Coils: Both
Primary and Secondary resistance w/in spec
- -Power Transistor: Passes
service manuals tests
- - B+ at Ignition Coils: Good
-
-Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensor (One in the same for '92): Good
-
-Engine Coolant Sensor and harness: Good
- -"Engine" Fuse Good
So,
I'm beginning to think that either A) My Spark Plugs are really hosed.
B) The
ECU I got from Foreignecurepair.com is not good.
I replaced my plugs at
80,000 miles and now I'm at 117,000. I was going
to do a plug change
soon anyway, but is it likely that I can't start the
car due to bad
plugs? When I replaced them, I used the NGK Double
Platinums.
When I put a plug on the block and ground it...sometimes there
is spark, and
when there is...It appears very weak. Not the normal *SNAP*
I'm used
to. What would be causing this...especially since the coils and
power
transistor check out fine.
Thanks for all the help
-
--Chris
On Mon, 13 May 2002, Riyan Mynuddin wrote:
> I spent
lots of valuable time and mine wouldn't start because of a silly
> little
15A fuse marked "Engine" in the fuse box under the driver side
> console.
Check it, not only visually, but do a continuity check. About plugs
> and
wires, is a tune up due anyway? might as well just do it. If they were
>
replaced recently, don't waste the $$$. If you do find that you need a
set
> of coils, I have one from from my 93 stealth rt tt that I could sell
you.
> Also, check the ignition coil capacitor. There is a capactitor that
connects
> by a tiny single wire harness to the ignition coil assembly
(the ignition
> coil assembly is the metal bracket that houses the three
coils). I replaced
> my coil assembly capacitor since it was rusty. I'm
not sure if it was the
> cause of my starting problem, but nevertheless
mine works now. If yours is
> rusty too then let me know so I can start
digging around for what I replaced
> it with.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Chris Cook
> Sent:
Monday, May 13, 2002 7:38 AM
> To: Donald Ashby
> Cc: Team3S
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
>
>
> I would agree
that it is a spark problem. as compression and fuel seem to
> be
fine. I pulled a plug and set it on the plenum and noticed that it
>
doesn't spark all the time (when it should and sometimes the spark
appears
> week. Where should I begin in troubleshooting this.
I check the
> resistance of the coils and it is all within spec.
Also, i checked for B+
> at the connector to the coils and it is
there. I check for continuity to
> ground and it is continuous,
however it /was/ about 67 Ohms...seemed a
> little high. Where
should I go from here?
> <snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:20:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
By the same token, I dont
understand how you can upgrade powerwise, and
not consider stopping power
mods -first-.
The R4-S, I generate very very little dust..even in the
Jeep yanking a
9000lb trailer cross country.
On Wed, 15 May 2002,
Chris Winkley wrote:
> Geoff...
>
> R4 pads, I put them
on specifically for an open track event. I've heard
> the R4-S (street)
pads produce less dust, but for the "average" street
> use car I don't
know why anyone would bother upgrading from stock rotors
> and pads when
the $$$ could be spent on engine performance mods. I've
> never
experienced fade on the road, even under conditions traveling from
>
Oregon to California at speeds in excess of 145 mph. The R4 pads wore
>
out in one weekend session (although fun, it was a VERY expensive
>
weekend) but covered the car with brake dust. I had also, based on Rich
>
Merritt's experience, removed the dust shields. Afterwards I put the
>
dust shields back on and thought I'd give the Stillen's a try, since I
>
hoped they would produce less dust. I've never wiped it up and weighed
>
it, so I don't know if I can accurately say "less", but it still makes
>
my Glacier Pearl White beauty and ugly beast with a simple drive across
>
town. Someone with a different color and non-chrome wheels might not
>
notice the dust and some people might not even care.
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002
8:03 AM
> To: Chris Winkley
> Cc: Willis, Charles E.;
jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com;
>
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
>
> You had R4,
or R4-S?
>
> On Wed, 15 May 2002, Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> > Folks...
> >
> > A MAJOR second to Chuck's
comment about dust. I have used Porterfield
> > R4s on the track and
now have the Stillen Metal Matrix installed on
> all
> > four
wheels. I can't make a fifteen mile commute to work without
>
having
> > my chrome wheels completely gray, along with powder along
the entire
> > bottom edge of the car. While I can attest to the fact
that stopping
> > power is indeed improved on the track, I'm headed
back to stock pads
> > next time around. All the fancy rotor and pad
setups should be
> > considered for open track use (IMO), there's
little to be gained on
> the
> > street or strip where you never
even get them warmed up. Save your
> > money, add larger injectors and
a boost controller, the stock brakes
> > were rated very high by all
the rags when the 3KGT came out.
> >
> > Looking
forward...Chris
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 14,
2002 11:43 AM
> > To:
'jrwooldr@rockwellcollins.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust & brake question
> >
<snip>
> >
> > The Metal Matrix pads are slightly more
agressive than stock pads, but
> > they
> > dust more than
stock pads, if appearance is important to you. <snip>
> >
> > Chuck Willis
> >
> > > I recently acquired a
92 3000 GT SL. It needs front rotors. I was
> > >
looking
> > > at the powerslot rotors available from 3sx
Performance. Any
> comments
> > on
> > > the
rotors or the company? Any discount here or a better/cheaper
> >
place to
> > > get them? How about the Stillen metal matrix
pads they advertise?
> I
> > do
> > > not intend to
go racing with it and don't want to spend $$$ for race
> > > quality
parts.
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#841
***************************************
