Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, May 14 2002 Volume 01 : Number 840

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:02:55 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.

Please don't do the tow rope thing - it's dangerous!

Chuck Willis
(voice of experience)

> Erik, you can get a U-Haul trailer lust like you described, or you could
> call you friends to come with a tow rope and tow you home on a rope. You
> have to have the engine running all the way while on the rope for the
> power
> brakes and steering to work.
>
> Philip
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: First track day experience!

> 3) The brakes suck. At one point, I was running down the MR-2 looking
> car and found myself with the brakes to the floor, ABS pulsing
> wondering if I was going to slow down in time to avoid rear-ending it
> and making the turn. After that experience, I would accelerate up to
> about 90 on the straights and then coast up to the turn. This took a
> lot of fun out of it; if you're considering a track day, invest in
> better brakes.
- ---

If your ABS was pulsing, you found your tire limit..you still had too much
grip (IE you had lockup).

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 12:08:52 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?

I have some fixing to do on my girlfriend's Eclipse rear brakes (drum not
disc). They are starting to squeal and I think they need some new pads.

I haven't worked on drum brakes before and I was wondering if anyone had any
tips, pointers, etc. they could provide to help me out.

I have replaced my pads and rotors on the VR4 - seemed pretty easy.

Thanks.

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:23:13 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.

PS. If not under warranty I would not try to get it repaired if its more than a few hundred dollars, just get a used one. The autos have pretty good reliability, and it is likely that this one had been abused, or run out of fluid to cause it to go bad. If much is damaged, it will be starting at $1000 to repair. You can likely find a used one and get it installed for $500-600, maybe even less.

Kurt

At 00:08 5/13/2002, Erik Petterson wrote:
>Thanks for the input, I will be renting a Uhaul truck and car dolly
>tomorrow and towing it about 200 miles. Question: My boss said to
>disconnect the rear drive shaft??? My car is a FWD model I don't think
>there is anything to disconnect for the rear wheels while towing is there?

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:39:06 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?

Drum brakes are not hard to work on. The drum cover will come off easily but
you may have to find the access hole in the cover and use a brake tool to
let off some of the adjustment inside. This can be tricky because not all
mechanisms are the same. If the drum does not come off easily then either
get access to a manual or call your local service place for that car and
just ask them what the tricks are. After the drum is off you just disconnect
the springs and remove the shoes. Take the drum to a machine shop and they
will mic it for you and grind it if necessary. Buy new shoes. Examine the
cylinder. If it is leaking dont bother with a rebuild. Just get a new
cylinder and put it in. If you don't have to replace cylinders you will not
need to bleed the brakes. If you do replace a cylinder you will have to
bleed the brakes at all wheels. Have fun.

Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>; "Team3s (E-mail)" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:08 AM
Subject: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?

> I have some fixing to do on my girlfriend's Eclipse rear brakes (drum not
> disc). They are starting to squeal and I think they need some new pads.
>
> I haven't worked on drum brakes before and I was wondering if anyone had
any
> tips, pointers, etc. they could provide to help me out.
>
> I have replaced my pads and rotors on the VR4 - seemed pretty easy.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dave 95VR4
> http://www.daveblack.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:24:49 -0700
From: Rick Pierce <piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?

Hey Dave,

I've done a ton of drum brakes on various cars, e-mail me privately for any
info you need. As a quick tip, to get the drums off loosen up the adjusters
as much as possible so the brake shoes will contract as far as possible -
this way if there's a ridge of unworn drum material on the inside edge of
the drum (there usually is), it will lessen the chance of the shoes hanging
up on it and making getting the drum off tough.

Rick

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>; "Team3s (E-mail)" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:08 AM
Subject: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?
>
> I haven't worked on drum brakes before and I was wondering if anyone had
any
> tips, pointers, etc. they could provide to help me out.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:46:18 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

Hey guys/gals Are our stock fuel tanks made out of metal or some other
material? I know its a stupid question but I am about to buy a bunch of the
parts for my fuel system and saw a good deal for a weld in fuel sump that
will work with my paxton fuel pump.

Also going with a 10AN feed from the tank to a 50 micron fuel filter to the
Paxton Pump then a 10 micron filter with a 8AN feed from the filter,
splitting to feed a 6AN to each rail individually, from each rail 6AN to the
Paxton FPR, finally returning to the tank VIA a 6 AN return line. Am I
missing anything here and can I just keep using the factory vent line to the
charcoal canister?

One last thing (I promise) Does anyone have any experience with the
aeromotive fuel pump controller? I am thinking about using this thing so
that at idle my fuel pump isn't running at full tilt which I hope will allow
me to keep the pressure at idle in check. Roger, this controller is only an
option if I am unable to keep my fuel pressure at idle around stock.

Russ F
CT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:16:04 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?

> Have you put a jack under the hub to relieve the weight on the lower strut
> mount?

With the car up on jackstands there really wasn't any weight or pressure on
the lower strut mount.

> I'm not certain that is actually rubber, just metal. Put some penetrating
> oil on it or WD40.

It is a rubber bushing with a metal sleeve in the middle. The sleeve was
rusted onto the lower strut mount. One came off intact with a gear puller,
the other tore the rubber bushing off the sleeve. No good. The sleeve will
need to be cut off the strut mount and a new strut installed if the bushing
assy. can't be acquired. :-(

Thanks for the advice everyone, the gear puller is the only thing that was
able to slide these off - for future reference.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:28:45 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?

My left rear shock slid right off. The right rear shock required heating with
a propane torch. All the gear puller did was seperate the rubber bushing from
the metal bushing. If using a gear puller, take care to protect the threads in
the mounting spindle. Details and pics on my shock & strut R&R web page below.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-shockremoval.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?

> Have you put a jack under the hub to relieve the weight on the lower strut
> mount?

With the car up on jackstands there really wasn't any weight or pressure on
the lower strut mount.

> I'm not certain that is actually rubber, just metal. Put some penetrating
> oil on it or WD40.

Thanks for the advice everyone, the gear puller is the only thing that was
able to slide these off - for future reference.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:28:24 -0400
From: "Mark Creekmore" <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: Drag Stats v1.10

Last year there was a drag racing statistics program for the Palm Pilot sent
out to several individuals. The program was registered to Team3S. If anyone
has a copy of that program and could send it to me I would really appreciate
it.

Thanks,

Mark Creekmore
92' Stealth R/T TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:15:56 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?

> Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
[Willis, Charles E.] BTW when I reinstalled mine I put high
temperature chassis grease on the lower mounting pins inthe hope that they
would come off easier in the future.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:02:31 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage attachment

Sorry for the late response. Have you tried OTC Tools? I got the 998742-01 part there a number of years ago. I have an old number for them: 1-800-533-6127. Don't know if that number is still good.
- -Steve
'92 VR-4

> Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:39:16 -0000
> From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
> Subject: Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage attachment
>
> Anyone know where to get the attachment/special tool part number
> MD998709 to connect to the high pressure end of the fuel rail to check
> the fuel pressure (then connect my fuel pressure guage to the other end)
> for my 1994 3000gt SL?. I've looked around a it. I have 2 fuel
> pressure guages with hoses long enough to tape to the windshield but
> none with this "special tool" adapter. Thanks guys.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:07:41 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Team3S: BG 44K

I was in my Mercedes dealer this morning, and saw they were selling a
fuel system cleaner called BG 44K. It's the kind you pour in the gas
tank & drive. It supposedly cleans valve & cc deposits as well. Has
anyone used it or heard of it before? It's $20 a can, and I'm wondering
if it's any different from redline or techron. Read about it at:
http://www.ec-securehost.com/RynoPerformanceProducts/Featured_Products.html

- -Steve
'92 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:41:16 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Where to get the high pressure fuel gauge attachm ent

If that 800 number isn't current you can use the national
information for 800 numbers which is 800-555-1212.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lasher [mailto:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 1:03 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Re: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage
attachment

Sorry for the late response. Have you tried OTC Tools? I got the 998742-01
part there a number of years ago. I have an old number for them:
1-800-533-6127. Don't know if that number is still good.
- -Steve
'92 VR-4

> Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:39:16 -0500
> From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
> Subject: Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage attachment
>
> Anyone know where to get the attachment/special tool part number
> MD998709 to connect to the high pressure end of the fuel rail to check
> the fuel pressure (then connect my fuel pressure guage to the other end)
> for my 1994 3000gt SL?. I've looked around a it. I have 2 fuel
> pressure guages with hoses long enough to tape to the windshield but
> none with this "special tool" adapter. Thanks guys.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:12:56 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BG 44K

> I was in my Mercedes dealer this morning, and saw they were selling a
> fuel system cleaner called BG 44K.

Korum Mitsu in Puyallup, WA sells this stuff, too. Worked really well every
time I've used it. I know that it removed a decent amount of the carbon
buildup in my 3000GT's cylinders because it made the pinging go away for
about a year (back when I had carbon issues on my old FWD 3k).

- --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:48:35 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Thermostat Housing Gasket Problem

Not related to 3/S, but quick technical question:

If the gasket on the thermostat housing were "compromised" (Satan's words),
then could that cause coolant to leak in to the intake or combustion
chambers?

This is on a friend's '98 Dodge Durango with the 5.7L V8. I checked his
coolant level, and the overflow tank is empty and the radiator was only
about half full. He is loosing coolant somehow, and after letting the
truck sit a few hours (or overnight), it spews lots of white smoke from the
tailpipe for a minute or so. It's enough smoke to surround the vehicle, and
it seems to be significantly less after the vehicle has warmed up or been
driven.

Based on the low coolant and the white smoke from the tailpipe, I was
thinking head gasket... am I missing something? We haven't checked
compression on the cylinders yet, but it did look like there might have been
a little oil-based stuff in the coolant (rainbow reflection in small
swirls).

- --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:52:04 -0400
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Team3S: Active camber

Check out a short promo article about a car with tilting wheels (active
camber). It is called F400 Carving.
http://daimlerchrysler.com/index_e.htm?/investor/reports/annual01/download/ft_e.pdf

Philip

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:10:41 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Active camber

That sounds awesome. 20degrees of negative camber? All computer
controlled by sensors? Asysmentrical tires? i love it. when can i guy
a system for my stealth? man, it sure would be nice to pull 1.28g at
the track!!!

pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

> Check out a short promo article about a car with tilting wheels (active
> camber). It is called F400 Carving.
> http://daimlerchrysler.com/index_e.htm?/investor/reports/annual01/download/ft_e.pdf
>
>
> Philip

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:10:39 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Article question

Does anyone know where i might be able to find a review in Car and Driver for
the SL, or the VR-4 debute , if there is one. if u can tell me the issue its
in i would appreciate it.

- -mike
97 SL

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:26:40 -0400
From: "Jerry B." <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Team3S: COMPUTER NEEDED!!!!

Hey all,
I am looking for a computer for a 91 Stealth SOHC. Also Looking for a
front left marker light for same vehicle. If anybody has this please let me
know and the price you are wanting for them.

Thanks. Note: This vehicle is also for sale. 170K on vehicle,
but all maint. done on time and no problems with the vehicle. Interior is
still prime and all.. asking 2000.00 ObO.

Jerry 92 stealth E/S & 93 Stealth RT/TT.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 14:27:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: JuQuEl <juquel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Struts

I've been scouring the web & shops around town, but I
can't seem to find anyplace selling struts for a '93
VR-4. Can anyone give me some leads?

Thanks!

LouAnn
'93 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:35:49 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Cheap Borla

Just spotted a Borla exhaust for $569. Go to:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/hotspecials/hotspecials.d2w/report

It's the last day, so it may be too late.
Rich/slow old poop

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:30:24 -0700
From: "tri" <thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

www.3sxperformance.com has them.
http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "JuQuEl" <juquel@yahoo.com>
To: "3s Team" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: Struts

> I've been scouring the web & shops around town, but I
> can't seem to find anyplace selling struts for a '93
> VR-4. Can anyone give me some leads?
>
> Thanks!
>
> LouAnn
> '93 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:33:33 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Article question

I have reproduced 19 magazine articles at my web site, including the 3/90 and
8/91 C&D articles.

http://www.stealth316.com/1-library.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Article question

Does anyone know where i might be able to find a review in Car and Driver for
the SL, or the VR-4 debute , if there is one. if u can tell me the issue its
in i would appreciate it.

- -mike
97 SL

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 15:39:13 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OT: Thermostat Housing Gasket Problem

In the 3S cars there is no path between the thermostat housing and the
combustion chamber --- I changed my thermostat recently [ stuck closed ]
and the thermostat has a rubber seal that fit's around the edge of the
thermostat.

Your description sounds like a water leak all right ---- it should also smell
like steam. Another quick check is to smell the inside of the radiator, or, if
you have the equipment, is to check the inside of the radiator for
hydrocarbons. Leaks in the combustion chamber usually force gasses
into the water jacket and into the radiator.

Jim Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S List (E-mail)" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Starnet 3S Mailing List (E-mail)" <stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 1:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: OT: Thermostat Housing Gasket Problem

> Not related to 3/S, but quick technical question:
>
> If the gasket on the thermostat housing were "compromised" (Satan's words),
> then could that cause coolant to leak in to the intake or combustion
> chambers?
>
> This is on a friend's '98 Dodge Durango with the 5.7L V8. I checked his
> coolant level, and the overflow tank is empty and the radiator was only
> about half full. He is loosing coolant somehow, and after letting the
> truck sit a few hours (or overnight), it spews lots of white smoke from the
> tailpipe for a minute or so. It's enough smoke to surround the vehicle, and
> it seems to be significantly less after the vehicle has warmed up or been
> driven.
>
> Based on the low coolant and the white smoke from the tailpipe, I was
> thinking head gasket... am I missing something? We haven't checked
> compression on the cylinders yet, but it did look like there might have been
> a little oil-based stuff in the coolant (rainbow reflection in small
> swirls).
>
> --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:43:34 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

At 03:30 PM 5/13/02 -0700, tri wrote:
>www.3sxperformance.com has them.
>http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp

Oh? I don't see struts anywhere on the site.
Rich/slow old poop

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:57:41 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: plug setting

0.032" no spark blowout for me up to 17 psi ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike & Cathy [SMTP:micajoco@theofficenet.com]
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 9:41 PM
> To: team3s stealth-3000gt
> Subject: Team3S: plug setting

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 12:37:36 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?

you're going to learn why everybody is going to disk brakes!

I think you should be able to back the shoes away from the drums with a
little wheel like you do for the rear drum emergency brakes on the 3000GT.
Then the drum comes off. Else, you may have to get a drum puller that
latches onto the edges of the drum and pushes on the hub (like a gear
puller). Drums can be turned just like rotors. There should be some
springs or something the have to be removed to get the shoes off. Watch
where they take off to.

Looking at a service manual in advance will help. There should be several
versions for Eclipse at NAPA. It's not hard, just a nuissance, and you will
wonder why shops charge more to do disk brakes! I haven't done drum brakes
in about 20 years, so tell me if I'm close to correct.

Chuck Willis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Black, Dave (ICT) [SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:09 PM
> To: 'stealth@starnet.net'; Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Tips on repairing drum brakes?
>
> I have some fixing to do on my girlfriend's Eclipse rear brakes (drum not
> disc). They are starting to squeal and I think they need some new pads.
>
> I haven't worked on drum brakes before and I was wondering if anyone had
> any
> tips, pointers, etc. they could provide to help me out.
>
> I have replaced my pads and rotors on the VR4 - seemed pretty easy.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dave 95VR4
> http://www.daveblack.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 11:12:15 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission fluid leak

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joseph Spainhour [SMTP:spainhou@coastalnet.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:33 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Transmission fluid leak
>
> Anyone know where I can get the metal gaskit/washer/o-ring for
> the plug. I have torqued everything down to spec and do not know what
> else it could be. It is a slight drip, but a leak all the same [Willis,
> Charles E.] .
Mitsu dealer - did you do the transfer case, too? It needs a metal
gasket, too. There are actually four - drain plug and fill plug on each,
plus if you do the rear differential there are two (different ones from the
front).

>
> Also, Can I drain the fluid into a clean container and reuse
> it. Hate to toss it out after only a day.
>
[Willis, Charles E.] Yes, if you are as cheap as me, or you can
consider it a flush.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:28:08 -0700
From: "tri" <thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

If you clicked on the second link I put down for the suspension, then scroll
down the page. there's a section to buy KYB GR-2 Stock Replacement Struts.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "tri" <thn@dexray.com>; "JuQuEl" <juquel@yahoo.com>; "3s Team"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

> At 03:30 PM 5/13/02 -0700, tri wrote:
> >www.3sxperformance.com has them.
> >http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp
>
> Oh? I don't see struts anywhere on the site.
> Rich/slow old poop

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 19:24:00 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Active camber

20 degrees may be a bit much, but I'm sure its in jest.

What I think we need is active ride height. Set camber with caster angles, but that adds ride height in the wrong direction, ie inside wheel back and pushed up, and outside wheel forward and let down. If the strut / knuckle had an internal screw mechanism, then it could lower the inside wheel and raise the outside as you turn. With power steering, I think it could work. Perhaps using air coils/shocks might accomplish the same thing, if they were setup to work in opposition while turning. Push up on the outside and let down on the inside. The good thing about air pressure is it could be easily applied to the rear wheels also.

Sway bars do this after the fact, but if incorporated into steering it would be somewhat
pro-active vs re-active.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:11 PM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com
Cc: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Active camber

pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:40:14 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BG 44K

It looks like this BG 44K may be worth trying. Here are some websites and
comments I found on the web. Personally I have had very good results with
slick 50 fuel treatment.

http://www.ec-securehost.com/RynoPerformanceProducts/Featured_Products.html

http://rynoproducts.com/

http://www.rspeed.net/miata/subcat.asp?dept=10&cat=21

Which Fuel Additives Are Recommended?
[TS] The active ingredient in 44K is the very same that is found in
Chevron's Techron fuel system additive. In fact, BG is the manufacturer of
the ingredient and sells it to Chevron for use in Techron. The actual amount
of the ingredient (which name slips my memory at the moment) in Techron is
4%, with other 'filler' stuff mixed in. BG 44K is 100% of the active
ingredient; so, in theory you would want to use the BG 44K if you want the
best results for the money invested.

You then follow up the 44K with the BG Supercharge II to prevent deposit
formation throughout the fuel system. The Supercharge II contains a fuel
system stabilizer that will stop rubber corrosion in the fuel system, caused
by the newfangled oxygenated fuel (which BTW I believe is being removed from
fuel stations here in No. California).

[GM] BEWARE! The 44K can is perhaps the worst designed product on the
market. A large opening means much will spill down the side of your NSX. At
$15 a can you are wasting part of the product, but worse it left marks in my
paint! I had to polish the area several times to remove them, then re-wax
of course. Luckily I was minutes from home when this happened. I don't know
if it gets worse if left on the paint for longer times.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Lasher" <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: BG 44K

| I was in my Mercedes dealer this morning, and saw they were selling a
| fuel system cleaner called BG 44K. It's the kind you pour in the gas
| tank & drive. It supposedly cleans valve & cc deposits as well. Has
| anyone used it or heard of it before? It's $20 a can, and I'm wondering
| if it's any different from redline or techron. Read about it at:
|
http://www.ec-securehost.com/RynoPerformanceProducts/Featured_Products.html
|
| -Steve
| '92 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:43:49 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BG 44K

Here is an interesting link with all kinds of interesting info on things
that come in cans, including BG 44

http://www.thepowershop.com/mechcan.htm
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Lasher" <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: BG 44K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:08:04 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BG 44K

FWIW, I've used this (BG 44K) many times on various cars and had
lasting noticable results. It also seems to be pretty consistantly
recommended by most mechanics I've spoken with. Of course your
system has to _need_ cleaning for there to be a potential and
noticable change. good preventative maintenance though IMHO. YMMV.
also, $15 is cheap compared to my local prices. $20+ everywhere
around here.

no offense to NSX owners, but ever heard of a funnel? to be fair,
it IS a real pain to get off your paint, so take care not to spill
any. extremely sticky stuff even though it flows like water.

FWIW2, I've heard Techron is quite comparable in effect, but haven't
seen the "real" version of it. Apparently the Techron Pro-guard
that's on most discount store shelves is a very weak version of it.
sounds like whats described below as "4%, with other 'filler' stuff
mixed in."

anyone have a comment on this or know where to get the "full strength"
version?

Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 = http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================

+> It looks like this BG 44K may be worth trying. Here are some websites and
+> comments I found on the web. Personally I have had very good results with
+> slick 50 fuel treatment.
+>
+> http://www.ec-securehost.com/RynoPerformanceProducts/Featured_Products.html
+>
+> http://rynoproducts.com/
+>
+> http://www.rspeed.net/miata/subcat.asp?dept=10&cat=21
+>
+> Which Fuel Additives Are Recommended?
+> [TS] The active ingredient in 44K is the very same that is found in
+> Chevron's Techron fuel system additive. In fact, BG is the manufacturer of
+> the ingredient and sells it to Chevron for use in Techron. The actual amount
+> of the ingredient (which name slips my memory at the moment) in Techron is
+> 4%, with other 'filler' stuff mixed in. BG 44K is 100% of the active
+> ingredient; so, in theory you would want to use the BG 44K if you want the
+> best results for the money invested.
+>
+> You then follow up the 44K with the BG Supercharge II to prevent deposit
+> formation throughout the fuel system. The Supercharge II contains a fuel
+> system stabilizer that will stop rubber corrosion in the fuel system, caused
+> by the newfangled oxygenated fuel (which BTW I believe is being removed from
+> fuel stations here in No. California).
+>
+> [GM] BEWARE! The 44K can is perhaps the worst designed product on the
+> market. A large opening means much will spill down the side of your NSX. At
+> $15 a can you are wasting part of the product, but worse it left marks in my
+> paint! I had to polish the area several times to remove them, then re-wax
+> of course. Luckily I was minutes from home when this happened. I don't know
+> if it gets worse if left on the paint for longer times.
+>
+> ----- Original Message -----
+> From: "Steve Lasher" <s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
+> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
+> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 12:07 PM
+> Subject: Team3S: BG 44K
+>
+>
+> | I was in my Mercedes dealer this morning, and saw they were selling a
+> | fuel system cleaner called BG 44K. It's the kind you pour in the gas
+> | tank & drive. It supposedly cleans valve & cc deposits as well. Has
+> | anyone used it or heard of it before? It's $20 a can, and I'm wondering
+> | if it's any different from redline or techron. Read about it at:
+> |
+> http://www.ec-securehost.com/RynoPerformanceProducts/Featured_Products.html
+> |
+> | -Steve
+> | '92 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 17:12:56 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

I'm in the process of looking at tank baffles or sumps also. There
seems to be little info unless you go to a big bucks fuel cell. to my
knowledge the tanks are metal but don't quote me on that yet.

I'm looking at some kind of internal sump and hopefully some sort
of fuel cell foam. I was hoping to cut it into blocks and fill the tank
with it --- I've only done some superficial looking at it.

I'm also looking at the Aeromotive pump rather than the Paxton,
what was your reason for the Paxton ??? I've also contacted a
company at Sears Point who provide Mustang parts which includes
a Fuelsafe tank with an internally mounted Aeromotive pump. I'm
hoping I can get info on how to do that, I'd much prefer to mount my
pump internally --- noise, safety, cooling.

I've checked around trying to find info on the aeromotive controller
and find very little. Talking to aeromotive all I get is: there is one set
point below 3000 rpm or so that drops the voltage to 8.5 volts. In
addition there is a customer supplied manual mode that allows you to
switch from low voltage to high voltage --- boost switch maybe. Pumping
large volumes of unused fuel around is not good --- heats and aerates
the fuel and overheats the pump so it's on my list only because it's the
only one I know of. I'm not sure when the pump on our cars goes into
high gear --- nobody seems to have the info and I haven't measured it
yet.

I'd also like to know where the return line is with respect to the pickup.
Gregg racing pointed out you don't want the pick up near the return,
makes sense if you happen to think of it.

Jim Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To: "'Team 3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:46 AM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

> Hey guys/gals Are our stock fuel tanks made out of metal or some other
> material? I know its a stupid question but I am about to buy a bunch of the
> parts for my fuel system and saw a good deal for a weld in fuel sump that
> will work with my paxton fuel pump.
>
> Also going with a 10AN feed from the tank to a 50 micron fuel filter to the
> Paxton Pump then a 10 micron filter with a 8AN feed from the filter,
> splitting to feed a 6AN to each rail individually, from each rail 6AN to the
> Paxton FPR, finally returning to the tank VIA a 6 AN return line. Am I
> missing anything here and can I just keep using the factory vent line to the
> charcoal canister?
>
> One last thing (I promise) Does anyone have any experience with the
> aeromotive fuel pump controller? I am thinking about using this thing so
> that at idle my fuel pump isn't running at full tilt which I hope will allow
> me to keep the pressure at idle in check. Roger, this controller is only an
> option if I am unable to keep my fuel pressure at idle around stock.
>
> Russ F
> CT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 19:57:55 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
> To: "'Team 3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:46 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Fuel Tank question
> > One last thing (I promise) Does anyone have any experience with the
> > aeromotive fuel pump controller? I am thinking about using this thing
so
> > that at idle my fuel pump isn't running at full tilt which I hope will
allow
> > me to keep the pressure at idle in check. Roger, this controller is
only an
> > option if I am unable to keep my fuel pressure at idle around stock.
> >
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -

I don't know much about the controller but I can tell you that
the Aeromotive will throttle down nicely at idle with an UR
underdrive pulley. You will most surely hear it too .....

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:36:13 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Active camber

Ya know what guys... 4 years ago, I drew up a basic system that could
be implemented into our cars that would allow this same thing... Based
on steering inputs (already available via ECS), it could adjust the
camber depending on which way and how fast you were turning.... It's a
fairly simple design, but controlling it would require a lot more
expertise than I or anyone I know has...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 6:24 PM
To: Damon Rachell; 3sracers@speedtoys.com
Cc: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Active camber

20 degrees may be a bit much, but I'm sure its in jest.

What I think we need is active ride height. Set camber with caster
angles, but that adds ride height in the wrong direction, ie inside
wheel back and pushed up, and outside wheel forward and let down. If the
strut / knuckle had an internal screw mechanism, then it could lower the
inside wheel and raise the outside as you turn. With power steering, I
think it could work. Perhaps using air coils/shocks might accomplish the
same thing, if they were setup to work in opposition while turning. Push
up on the outside and let down on the inside. The good thing about air
pressure is it could be easily applied to the rear wheels also.

Sway bars do this after the fact, but if incorporated into steering it
would be somewhat
pro-active vs re-active.

Kurt

That sounds awesome. 20degrees of negative camber? All computer
controlled by sensors? Asysmentrical tires? i love it. when can i guy

a system for my stealth? man, it sure would be nice to pull 1.28g at
the track!!!

pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com wrote:

> Check out a short promo article about a car with tilting wheels
(active
> camber). It is called F400 Carving.
>
http://daimlerchrysler.com/index_e.htm?/investor/reports/annual01/downlo
ad/ft_e.pdf
>
>
> Philip

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:26:39 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Tank question 2

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

> I don't know much about the controller but I can tell you that
> the Aeromotive will throttle down nicely at idle with an UR
> underdrive pulley. You will most surely hear it too .....
>
- ----------------------------------------------------------------

I should also add:

My voltage drops to 12.1 - 12.2 at idle.

Then up to 13.2 once underway.
- - Todd

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:40:26 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

I had my trusted mechanic do a compression and leak down test on my motor
the other day and the compression numbers were good, all around 155. The
leak down showed two cylinders (one on each bank) with 20-25% loss. The
others were 5% loss. Also, on a drive today up a steep grade, I notice a
lot of white/grey smoke. There was enough smoke that I could clearly see it
in the rear view mirror. After the road leveled, there was no visible
smoke.

Now here's the kicker - this is a fully built, blueprinted, balanced, etc.
motor done by GT Pro about 1 year ago. Does this sound like the valve
seals, valves, or head gasket?? I know a number of people had serious
problems with rings, heads, etc. from the shop GT Pro was using (Benson's
Machine in Santa Ana). What should I do???

Rich F

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 00:09:13 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

Hmmm... Open the radiator cap when you are going the leakdown test. If you
see bubbles - your head gasket is bad.

If compression is good but the leakdown is bad, you need to redo the
leakdown so that the last motion of the piston is up. This way you rings
will surely seat on the bottom of the ring grooves and they will seal better.

If this does not help, remove intake and exhaust manifolds and see if you
have bad valve leaks. Valve leaks would also mess up your leakdown much
more than compression. Squirt some gasoline or water into the ports when
the valves are closed and see if you have too many bubbles going through
the closed valves while there is pressure in the cylinder. You will see
SOME bubbles in all ports, but the bad ones will be bubbling really bad.
Plug up an intake or an exhaust port with a plug and run a hose through
that plug into a bucket with water. Pressurize the cylinder with 15 psi and
measure the volume of bubbles with a measurement cup. Anything under 600
cc/minute is satisfactory. Above 2000 cc/min - bad.

Philip

At 23:40 5/13/2002, Rich Fowler wrote:
>I had my trusted mechanic do a compression and leak down test on my motor
>the other day and the compression numbers were good, all around 155. The
>leak down showed two cylinders (one on each bank) with 20-25% loss. The
>others were 5% loss. Also, on a drive today up a steep grade, I notice a
>lot of white/grey smoke. There was enough smoke that I could clearly see it
>in the rear view mirror. After the road leveled, there was no visible
>smoke.
>
>Now here's the kicker - this is a fully built, blueprinted, balanced, etc.
>motor done by GT Pro about 1 year ago. Does this sound like the valve
>seals, valves, or head gasket?? I know a number of people had serious
>problems with rings, heads, etc. from the shop GT Pro was using (Benson's
>Machine in Santa Ana). What should I do???

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:21:26 -0700
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

I'm getting a set of KYBs installed by Sears (go ahead and laugh). they're
charging $140 per (front) strut, but only $34 each for installation. The
installation is a half price special, so they usually charge $64 per strut
(I guess). It sounds like they get them for about $100 per strut, then mark
up.

I called Satan and they want to charge over $200 just for labor to install.
I'd consider the locally recommended shop in Portland, but I'm disappointed
that they failed to diagnose bad struts when replacing the right cap twice.
Also, I'm moving from Portland to Atlanta and appreciate Sears' nationwide
presence.

Seems like an OK deal to me, but then I'm not a racer, I just play one on
the freeway (Half speed phenomenon, seems like I'm going half what the
speedometer says)

Michael

92 VR4, stock so far as I know

- ----- Original Message -----
From: JuQuEl
To: 3s Team
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: Struts

I've been scouring the web & shops around town, but I
can't seem to find anyplace selling struts for a '93
VR-4. Can anyone give me some leads?

Thanks!

LouAnn
'93 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 21:32:19 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

Could someone explain the difference and importance of both leak down
and compression tests? How are the two tests performed? I've always
know that the tests are important to view the life of the engine, but
never fully understood what they are and represent.
Thanks
Damon

Philip V. Glazatov wrote:

> Hmmm... Open the radiator cap when you are going the leakdown test. If
> you see bubbles - your head gasket is bad.
>
> If compression is good but the leakdown is bad, you need to redo the
> leakdown so that the last motion of the piston is up. This way you rings
> will surely seat on the bottom of the ring grooves and they will seal
> better.
>
> If this does not help, remove intake and exhaust manifolds and see if
> you have bad valve leaks. Valve leaks would also mess up your leakdown
> much more than compression. Squirt some gasoline or water into the ports
> when the valves are closed and see if you have too many bubbles going
> through the closed valves while there is pressure in the cylinder. You
> will see SOME bubbles in all ports, but the bad ones will be bubbling
> really bad. Plug up an intake or an exhaust port with a plug and run a
> hose through that plug into a bucket with water. Pressurize the cylinder
> with 15 psi and measure the volume of bubbles with a measurement cup.
> Anything under 600 cc/minute is satisfactory. Above 2000 cc/min - bad.
>
> Philip
>
> At 23:40 5/13/2002, Rich Fowler wrote:
>
>> I had my trusted mechanic do a compression and leak down test on my motor
>> the other day and the compression numbers were good, all around 155. The
>> leak down showed two cylinders (one on each bank) with 20-25% loss. The
>> others were 5% loss. Also, on a drive today up a steep grade, I notice a
>> lot of white/grey smoke. There was enough smoke that I could clearly
>> see it
>> in the rear view mirror. After the road leveled, there was no visible
>> smoke.
>>
>> Now here's the kicker - this is a fully built, blueprinted, balanced,
>> etc.
>> motor done by GT Pro about 1 year ago. Does this sound like the valve
>> seals, valves, or head gasket?? I know a number of people had serious
>> problems with rings, heads, etc. from the shop GT Pro was using (Benson's
>> Machine in Santa Ana). What should I do???

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 22:03:54 -0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

Do you by chance have total seal gap-less piston rings?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Fowler" <richfowler2@cox.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

> I had my trusted mechanic do a compression and leak down test on my motor
> the other day and the compression numbers were good, all around 155. The
> leak down showed two cylinders (one on each bank) with 20-25% loss. The
> others were 5% loss. Also, on a drive today up a steep grade, I notice a
> lot of white/grey smoke. There was enough smoke that I could clearly see
it
> in the rear view mirror. After the road leveled, there was no visible
> smoke.
>
> Now here's the kicker - this is a fully built, blueprinted, balanced, etc.
> motor done by GT Pro about 1 year ago. Does this sound like the valve
> seals, valves, or head gasket?? I know a number of people had serious
> problems with rings, heads, etc. from the shop GT Pro was using (Benson's
> Machine in Santa Ana). What should I do???
>
> Rich F

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:27:49 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.

erik-

I towed an infiniti sports coupe (the odd m30) with my 92 chevy astro LT.
used a u-haul tow dolly to get 2 wheels off the ground. depending on which
u-haul branch you hit, you'll find one, the other, or maybe even both. the
trailer was a pain though. I had to stay under 45 mph to stop it from
swaying dangerously. unfortunately, i didn't follow the limitation--i went
55-65 mph and the cables slowly sliced into the rear tires. I didn't notice
it until i got home and there were bubbles in the tires, indicating that the
cables had compressed and mangled the tire belts. don't do that. if you want
to go faster than 45, i'd recommend the flatbed. 'nuff said

riyan
93 stealth rt tt

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Erik Petterson
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 1:15 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.

At this point I think there is a definite mechanical problem with it. Fluid
is at a good level and it still won't find any gears including reverse. It
will have to be towed I guess. Towing question now... Has anyone ever towed
their car with a car trailer/dolly from U-Haul? Can you hook it up with one
that just gets the front wheels off the ground or do you have to use the
trailer where the whole car sits on it?

<cut>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 23:15:24 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help: Car won't start

I spent lots of valuable time and mine wouldn't start because of a silly
little 15A fuse marked "Engine" in the fuse box under the driver side
console. Check it, not only visually, but do a continuity check. About plugs
and wires, is a tune up due anyway? might as well just do it. If they were
replaced recently, don't waste the $$$. If you do find that you need a set
of coils, I have one from from my 93 stealth rt tt that I could sell you.
Also, check the ignition coil capacitor. There is a capactitor that connects
by a tiny single wire harness to the ignition coil assembly (the ignition
coil assembly is the metal bracket that houses the three coils). I replaced
my coil assembly capacitor since it was rusty. I'm not sure if it was the
cause of my starting problem, but nevertheless mine works now. If yours is
rusty too then let me know so I can start digging around for what I replaced
it with.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Chris Cook
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 7:38 AM
To: Donald Ashby
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help: Car won't start

I would agree that it is a spark problem. as compression and fuel seem to
be fine. I pulled a plug and set it on the plenum and noticed that it
doesn't spark all the time (when it should and sometimes the spark appears
week. Where should I begin in troubleshooting this. I check the
resistance of the coils and it is all within spec. Also, i checked for B+
at the connector to the coils and it is there. I check for continuity to
ground and it is continuous, however it /was/ about 67 Ohms...seemed a
little high. Where should I go from here?
<snip>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 13:37:15 +0300
From: Norman VR-4 <normunds@palete.lv>
Subject: Team3S: Question - before dampening hole car...

Hi,
I'm planning to start dampening my VR-4 at this weekend. I bought
sound dampening material at www.b-quiet.com. My question is - whose
parts or departments I must pay more attention??? In other words, what
I must dampening well? Is it wheel dep. or firewall or something else?
Thanks for any help! Some words about dampening material:

Brown Bread is a viscoelastic deadener with a supercharged bitumen based adhesive.
With an aluminum constraining layer and an unique composition with suspended mineral
particles it has been proven to be extremely efficient at the conversion of vibration
to thermal energy. Brown Bread is extremely flexible which is very important as it
allows it to properly adhere to a contoured panel.

It can be installed anywhere including under hood. Highly effective at a very reasonable
price makes Brown Bread the choice of many competitors.

Brown Bread is 1.6mm (63mil) thick, weighs 0.4lb/sq. ft. and is available in
3 sizes - 10.5, 35 and 70 sq. ft.

Best regards,
NormanVR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 07:10:51 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: Was Furl Tank Question now Fuel Pump Control

Not too awfully worried about the noise from the pump I heard the exact pump
I willl be using and at 12V at idle its noticable but not overly obnoxious
especially compared to a pair on N1 canisters and a catless D/P at idle ;)

My two biggest reasons for the controller are, to not heat and aerate the
fuel at idle, and to make sure not to run too high fuel pressure at idle.
Any decrease in noise is secondary but appreciated...... "Whats that
whining noise coming from the back of your car" :/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Mon 5/13/2002 8:57 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Cc:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

I don't know much about the controller but I can tell you that
the Aeromotive will throttle down nicely at idle with an UR
underdrive pulley. You will most surely hear it too .....

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds <http://www.brightok.net/~tds>

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 07:25:40 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Carparts.com Discount?

Curt Gendron has the CarParts discount info posted on his site -
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html

It looks like his discount coupons haven't been updated in a while. May
want to send him an email to see what's up - cgendron@mail.com

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: William Jeffrey Crabtree [mailto:wjcrabtree@earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 11:25 AM
To: team3s
Subject: Team3S: Carparts.com Discount?

Am I nuts, or do I remember seeing a discussion about a coupon code for a
discount at Carparts.com that was specifically set up for 3/S members?

Just trying to make sure that I don't spend more money than I have to.

- -Jeff Crabtree
     '91 R/T TT(3SI#0499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 08:05:12 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT: Thermostat Housing Gasket Problem

Jim,

When I replaced the thermostat on my 1st gen VR4, it had a metal gasket
between the housing cover and the block. When I tried to replace the gasket
at Mitsu, the dealer said it was discontinued. I believe there is no gasket
on the thermostat on my 2nd gen VR4. Could the thermostat you replaced have
been aftermarket?

Chuck
(possible reason for temperature excursions at high boost and aggressive
driving?)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 5:39 PM
> To: Gross, Erik; Team3S List (E-mail); Starnet 3S Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: OT: Thermostat Housing Gasket Problem
>
> In the 3S cars there is no path between the thermostat housing and the
> combustion chamber --- I changed my thermostat recently [ stuck closed ]
> and the thermostat has a rubber seal that fit's around the edge of the
> thermostat.
>
> Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 08:21:53 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: FW: Team3S: Carparts.com Discount?

info below on CarParts.com from Curt...

looks like it is no more...

<quote>
Thanks for the plug, but CarParts doesn't have affiliates any longer. :(
So none of my coupons are good any longer. CarParts is virtually defunct
anyways. (the bastards still owe me $50 too) I know I should really update
my webpage too.</quote>

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

> Am I nuts, or do I remember seeing a discussion about a coupon code for a
> discount at Carparts.com that was specifically set up for 3/S members?
>
> Just trying to make sure that I don't spend more money than I have to.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 08:26:10 US/Central
From: tds@brightok.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: Was Furl Tank Question now Fuel Pump Control

> Not too awfully worried about the noise from the pump I heard the exact pump
> I willl be using and at 12V at idle its noticable but not overly obnoxious
> especially compared to a pair on N1 canisters and a catless D/P at idle ;)
>
> My two biggest reasons for the controller are, to not heat and aerate the
> fuel at idle, and to make sure not to run too high fuel pressure at idle.
> Any decrease in noise is secondary but appreciated...... "Whats that
> whining noise coming from the back of your car" :/
>
- --------------------------------------------------------------

FPR (SX in my case) will maintain constant pressure
at idle regardless of voltage to pump. The only
way I could see it failing to do so would be inadequate
or undersized return line ...

Pump noise is not much quieter at idle - just a lower
pitch. :)

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds

This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:27:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject: Re: Team3S: COMPUTER NEEDED!!!!

Don't know if you want to spend the money since you're selling it. But
you can get one from http://www.foreignecurepair.com. I believe its about
$375 w/out core (I think the core exchange is $50, making it $325). Also,
woodfins.com and avproecm.com

- --Chris Cook

On Mon, 13 May 2002, Jerry B. wrote:

> Hey all,
>     I am looking for a computer for a 91 Stealth SOHC. Also Looking for a
> front left marker light for same vehicle. If anybody has this please let me
> know and the price you are wanting for them.
>
> Thanks.              Note: This vehicle is also for sale. 170K on vehicle,
> but all maint. done on time and no problems with the vehicle. Interior is
> still prime and all.. asking 2000.00   ObO.
>
> Jerry 92 stealth E/S & 93 Stealth RT/TT.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:34:09 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Tank question

My plan was to mount the return line on the top of the factory fuel pump
assembly plate, the sump was going to be mounted on the opposite side with a
baffle of some sort to keep the sump loaded as much as possible.

My reasoning is I can get the paxton pump for about $30 cheaper than the
aeromotive and the FPR for about 15 cheaper. Unless someone can prove to me
that the Aeromotive moves more fuel at the same voltage I am going with the
paxton.

Any other advice is welcome pertaining to this.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:13 PM
> To: Furman, Russell; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Tank question
>
> I'm in the process of looking at tank baffles or sumps also. There
> seems to be little info unless you go to a big bucks fuel cell. to my
> knowledge the tanks are metal but don't quote me on that yet.
>
> I'm looking at some kind of internal sump and hopefully some sort
> of fuel cell foam. I was hoping to cut it into blocks and fill the tank
> with it --- I've only done some superficial looking at it.
>
> I'm also looking at the Aeromotive pump rather than the Paxton,
> what was your reason for the Paxton ??? I've also contacted a
> company at Sears Point who provide Mustang parts which includes
> a Fuelsafe tank with an internally mounted Aeromotive pump. I'm
> hoping I can get info on how to do that, I'd much prefer to mount my
> pump internally --- noise, safety, cooling.
>
> I've checked around trying to find info on the aeromotive controller
> and find very little. Talking to aeromotive all I get is: there is one set
> point below 3000 rpm or so that drops the voltage to 8.5 volts. In
> addition there is a customer supplied manual mode that allows you to
> switch from low voltage to high voltage --- boost switch maybe. Pumping
> large volumes of unused fuel around is not good --- heats and aerates
> the fuel and overheats the pump so it's on my list only because it's the
> only one I know of. I'm not sure when the pump on our cars goes into
> high gear --- nobody seems to have the info and I haven't measured it
> yet.
>
> I'd also like to know where the return line is with respect to the pickup.
> Gregg racing pointed out you don't want the pick up near the return,
> makes sense if you happen to think of it.
>
> Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 07:31:52 -0700
From: Andrew Woll <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

Michael: Sears put new shocks and struts on my 86 BMW 535 and did a great
job. They gave me the same half price special. Having done the job myself
once before I know the work involved at least 6 hours. They charged for one
hour of labor. The parts were heavily discounted. I don't see how they made
a profit. During the install the ABS sensor stopped working. I don't think
they broke it. It was old. Nevertheless, they said they would fix it. When
they couldn't fix it they paid the local BMW dealer's fee to fix it. All in
all I was very happy with Sears. Unfortunately, they must have woken up. I
recently asked them to do the strut cartridges on my BMW 318I and they told
me they will no longer do BMW's. They use Munroe parts (and good ones too).
I think you will be happy with Sears.

Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <rhoden@easystreet.com>
To: "3s Team" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Struts

| I'm getting a set of KYBs installed by Sears (go ahead and laugh).
they're
| charging $140 per (front) strut, but only $34 each for installation. The
| installation is a half price special, so they usually charge $64 per strut
| (I guess). It sounds like they get them for about $100 per strut, then
mark
| up.
|
| I called Satan and they want to charge over $200 just for labor to
install.
| I'd consider the locally recommended shop in Portland, but I'm
disappointed
| that they failed to diagnose bad struts when replacing the right cap
twice.
| Also, I'm moving from Portland to Atlanta and appreciate Sears' nationwide
| presence.
|
| Seems like an OK deal to me, but then I'm not a racer, I just play one on
| the freeway (Half speed phenomenon, seems like I'm going half what the
| speedometer says)
|
| Michael
|
| 92 VR4, stock so far as I know
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: JuQuEl
| To: 3s Team
| Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:27 PM
| Subject: Team3S: Struts
|
|
| I've been scouring the web & shops around town, but I
| can't seem to find anyplace selling struts for a '93
| VR-4. Can anyone give me some leads?
|
| Thanks!
|
| LouAnn
| '93 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:36:25 -0500
From: "Brad Younkman" <byounkman@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Need Help, Car will start but runs very rough

Hey Everyone

Here's the problem: The car starts fine and idles fine. When I accelerate
the ignition cuts out for a brief second all the way up through the rpm
range. I can see this when I hook up a timing light and rev the car up. The
nice steady flashes that you are suppose to get are broken up with darkness
for brief seconds as the rpm is increase. I then took it in to see
Satan(Mitsu dealer in Ft Walton Beach, FL). First they said the computer is
not giving out any codes which I could have told them that. Then they told
me my problem was the Magnecor wires on there. I told them that was
impossible as I changed the plugs and wires after the porblem started. They
then said they'll clean the throttle body and that did no good. That's were
they quit because they had no idea what was wrong and were only guessing. I
just tested the secondary coil resistance and all three were about 13k.
Since the secondary method checked do I need to pull the coil and check the
Primary Coil Resistance, what about the Power Transistor also? The TPS
checked good. What could be causing this that would not cause the computer
to give out codes? Any other ideas?

I just got an older laptop, what do I need to be able to hook this up and
get readings and all that good stuff I keep reading about? Will this help
with my troubleshooting also?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Brad
91 Stealth RT TT
No Mods

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:53:32 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?

Sorry for the off topic. Looks like I've been ripped off for $300 ( I was
supposed to get a used steering rack and P/S pump).

Does anybody know:

Michael OR Andrew Garand
7818 Ryder Ave
South Glens Falls, NY 12803

Wreckamended Auto Service
152 Broadway
Fort Edward, NY 12828
518-747-0166

IF you know any of the FINE UPSTANDING FOLKS or if you live in the N/E
section of NY, please, please, please Email me privately.

I am contacting the FBI interenet fraud and several other agencies about
them.

Thanks

- -Jeff Crabtree
     '91 R/T TT(3SI#0499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:58:45 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Carparts.com Discount? Dead, PLUS...(read)

Thanks for the responses gang, Here's what I found out.

1. Carparts.com no longer utilizes the coupon program.

2. Carparts.com is now owned by, none other than, J.C. Whitney. Which is
probably the reason for #1

RUN AWAY!!!

- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 R/T TT (3SI#0499)
        2K Wrangler TJ Sport
            St. Louis, MO

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
To: "'William Jeffrey Crabtree'" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>; "team3s"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc: <cgendron@mail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 7:25 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Carparts.com Discount?

> Curt Gendron has the CarParts discount info posted on his site -
> http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
>
> It looks like his discount coupons haven't been updated in a while. May
> want to send him an email to see what's up - cgendron@mail.com
>
> Dave 95VR4
> http://www.daveblack.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:05:22 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?

OOPS....
I forgot to mention that this person has postings to the 3SI.org classified
boards and goes by the email/username:

double0bondo@adelphia.net

Beware!!

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To: "team3s" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?

> Sorry for the off topic. Looks like I've been ripped off for $300 ( I was
> supposed to get a used steering rack and P/S pump).
>
> Does anybody know:
>
> Michael OR Andrew Garand
> 7818 Ryder Ave
> South Glens Falls, NY 12803
>
> OR
>
> Wreckamended Auto Service
> 152 Broadway
> Fort Edward, NY 12828
> 518-747-0166
>
> IF you know any of the FINE UPSTANDING FOLKS or if you live in the N/E
> section of NY, please, please, please Email me privately.
>
> I am contacting the FBI interenet fraud and several other agencies about
> them.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Jeff Crabtree
>      '91 R/T TT(3SI#0499)
>           2K Wrangler TJ Sport
>                St. Louis, MO

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 08:20:35 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

Yes, they are total seal rings with Ross pistons.

on 5/13/02 10:03 PM, Paul Prentis at paul@ppeengineering.com wrote:

> Do you by chance have total seal gap-less piston rings?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Fowler" <richfowler2@cox.net>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:40 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down
>
>
>> I had my trusted mechanic do a compression and leak down test on my motor
>> the other day and the compression numbers were good, all around 155. The
>> leak down showed two cylinders (one on each bank) with 20-25% loss. The
>> others were 5% loss.......

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 11:09:38 -0400
From: "alan92rttt" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?

And their have been 3SI members that have had issues with him too.

3SI has a buyer seller rating section on the message board. Its always a
good Idea to look their first. Reading some of the posts their, may have
saved you from having the problems having now.

Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To: "team3s" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?

> OOPS....
>
>
> I forgot to mention that this person has postings to the 3SI.org
classified
> boards and goes by the email/username:
>
> double0bondo@adelphia.net
>
> Beware!!

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 10:29:29 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Good Compression - Bad Leak Down

> Yes, they are total seal rings with Ross pistons.

I've got the same setup and have had no problems and no smoking of any kind
with them. You do need to break in the rings aggressively to get them to
seat properly though - don't baby the car all the time during initial
break-in. Make a few successively stronger runs to progressively higher
RPMs to seat the rings. If they are leaking now though then its too late to
break in the rings if you've got more than a couple hundred miles on them.

BTW, the rings that GT Pro supplies with their Ross piston kit aren't the
Total Seal Gapless rings, they are a standard design with gaps - just
supplied by Total Seal.

...or it could've been a problem with GT Pro building the motor or their
machine shop didn't machine the bores right. Considering the quality of
workmanship that GT Pro performed on my car, I'd be skeptical that they
could properly do a motor rebuild.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 11:10:55 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Does anybody know this person?

Many people have had problems with this guy.

At 10:05 AM 5/14/02 -0500, William Jeffrey Crabtree wrote:

>double0bondo@adelphia.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #840
***************************************