Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, May 13
2002 Volume 01 : Number
839
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 12 May 2002 11:01:57 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Question... Have we
checked the actual cable that selects gears... I
would think there is a
mild possibility that cable broke...
Just something to check
first...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Erik Petterson
Sent: Sunday,
May 12, 2002 3:15 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
At this point I think there
is a definite mechanical problem with it.
Fluid is at a good level and it
still won't find any gears including
reverse. It will have to be towed
I guess. Towing question now... Has
anyone ever towed their car with a
car trailer/dolly from U-Haul? Can
you hook it up with one that just
gets the front wheels off the ground
or do you have to use the trailer where
the whole car sits on it?
Thanks for the help.
- -Erik
1991
3,800 pound paperweight :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 11:25:12
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Carparts.com Discount?
Am I nuts, or do I remember seeing a
discussion about a coupon code for a
discount at Carparts.com that was
specifically set up for 3/S members?
Just trying to make sure that I
don't spend more money than I have to.
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 R/T
TT(3SI#0499)
2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 10:32:50
-0600
From: "norm kami" <
normross@telusplanet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: my toy
I was told to put in new wiress and plugs to fix my car.
Can i put in Accel
8m
and the new bose plantem ones that have 4
prongs or what.
THANK NORM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 12:36:17
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
I was just thinking about
this too. But in his initial post he indicated
that the car was switching
back an forth by itself and eventually settled
in the 3rd gear (usually the
limp mode gear) and then died completely. The
smoke and and the brown fluid
is another indication that it is not as
simple as just a cable.
But
it never hurts to check everything. I fixed an auto transmission once
by
simply lubricating the throttle cable. Unfortunately there seems to be a
real failure in this case.
Erik, you can get a U-Haul trailer lust
like you described, or you could
call you friends to come with a tow rope
and tow you home on a rope. You
have to have the engine running all the way
while on the rope for the power
brakes and steering to
work.
Philip
At 12:01 5/12/2002, cody
wrote:
>Question... Have we checked the actual cable that selects
gears... I
>would think there is a mild possibility that cable
broke...
>
>Just something to check
first...
>
>-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 11:48:06
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
I had used a torch on mine with a
prybar and it came off. Just keep the
heat as low as possible on the
strut, pointing away from the cartridge
itself. My old stock struts are
still in service on another VR-4 right now,
so I guess it worked
fine.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD
Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Matt Jannusch"
<
mjannusch@attbi.com>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 11, 2002 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get rear
shocks off?
> isolation bushing and it's rusted to the shock mounting
bolt, force and a
> good penetrating oil --- maybe some heat on the
mounting bolt but not
> enough to melt the rubber ?!?!?!?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 11:25:03
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: my toy
I have Accel in mine.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: norm kami [mailto:normross@telusplanet.net]
Sent:
Sunday, May 12, 2002 10:33 AM
To: Stealth
Subject: Team3S: my toy
I
was told to put in new wiress and plugs to fix my car. Can i put in
Accel
8m
and the new bose plantem ones that have 4 prongs or
what.
THANK NORM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:03:26
-0400
From: "Samuel Mercedes Jr." <
elrey@techcom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
about hydrolock and electrical probs
I've heard that hydrolock can come
from those cold air intake thingy's. I've
heard of some people that run if
straight to the bottom of the car and
sometimes they fun over a water puddle,
or it's real heavy rain, next thing
they know they got water in the engine.
(thats one of the reasons I am kinda
scared to put a cold air intake.) guess
I will just go with a normal intake
for know.
Also, I seem to be
having "electrical" problems. does anyone else have
similar problems. My
passanger side window just "decided" not to roll down
today, my suspension is
stuck in sport mode.(I think the computer just froze
on that mode) also when
I pull hard turns, like almost 90 degree turns,
(maybe 60 or 70 degrees) the
car just cuts off, like there is a lose wire or
somthing is shorting.
whenever i turn on my left or right turn signal, the
needle in the voltage
gauge moves up and down at the same frequency my turn
signal blinks.
(electrical grimlens I guess)
But any input/advice would be greatly
appriciated., Also the car just cut
off on me today i was going about 80 down
a country road and i took a slight
curve hit the brakes and all the lights in
the dash lite up! lost power
steering, and braking pressure. (real scary at
80)
Thanks for the help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:10:40
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Team3S: Help: Car won't start
Recently I've had an idle problem, which I
thought was the ISC. But
before I could replace it, I got in the car
after work and it was running
REALLY rich. Black smoke coming out and
it wouldn't accellerate hardly at
all. I managed to limp home and it
was doing the same thing. Running
very rich and then stalling. I
checked for intake leakes and such and
coudln't find anything. 2 days
later, I started troubleshooting and the
car woudln't start at all. It
would just crank away a couple times it
sounded like there was combustion,
but it just got worse and worse to
where there was no combustion at
all.
So...I was reading 3si and thought it might be the common ECU
problem. So
I pulled it and sure enough the capacitors were leaking
elektrolyte all
over the board. I tried replacing the caps, but it
didn't fix it. So, I
ordered a replacement ECU from
foreignecurepair.com I thought that was
going to fix my problem...plug
and play. But...Plugged it in...same
problem.
I pulled the front
plugs and they all appear to be sparking. I plugged
the TMO Datalogger
in and there are no error codes and all the sensors are
reporting normal
values. When I pulled the plugs, they seemed to be wet
with fuel so I
assume that fuel is getting injected to the cylinders.
At this point, I
am at a loss of what to try. Please help...any
suggestions??? I
really need to get my car working again
Also, I don't have any mods that
I think would affect this. Only engine
mods are:
1992 3000GT
VR-4
AVC-R Boost Controller
K&N FIPK
Thanks,
Chris Cook
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 13:44:39
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
If your spark plugs are wet and there
is fuel on the heads, I would say it
is a spark problem, either coil, plugs
or wires, test out those things, it
sounds like your spark isn't hot enough
to ignite the fuel, or there is not
enough voltage, or your getting the spark
blown out, but that shouldn't
happen at idle. Hope that helps!
Donald
-
-1993 3000GT VR-4
(Stock)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris
Cook" <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, May 12, 2002 1:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Help: Car won't
start
> Recently I've had an idle problem, which I thought was the
ISC. But
> before I could replace it, I got in the car after work
and it was running
> REALLY rich. Black smoke coming out and it
wouldn't accellerate hardly at
> all. I managed to limp home and it
was doing the same thing. Running
> very rich and then
stalling. I checked for intake leakes and such and
> coudln't find
anything. 2 days later, I started troubleshooting and the
> car
woudln't start at all. It would just crank away a couple times it
>
sounded like there was combustion, but it just got worse and worse to
>
where there was no combustion at all.
>
> So...I was reading 3si and
thought it might be the common ECU problem. So
> I pulled it and
sure enough the capacitors were leaking elektrolyte all
> over the
board. I tried replacing the caps, but it didn't fix it. So,
I
> ordered a replacement ECU from foreignecurepair.com I thought
that was
> going to fix my problem...plug and play. But...Plugged it
in...same
> problem.
>
> I pulled the front plugs and they all
appear to be sparking. I plugged
> the TMO Datalogger in and there
are no error codes and all the sensors are
> reporting normal
values. When I pulled the plugs, they seemed to be wet
> with fuel
so I assume that fuel is getting injected to the cylinders.
>
> At
this point, I am at a loss of what to try. Please help...any
>
suggestions??? I really need to get my car working again
>
>
Also, I don't have any mods that I think would affect this. Only
engine
> mods are:
>
> 1992 3000GT VR-4
> AVC-R Boost
Controller
> K&N FIPK
>
>
Thanks,
> Chris Cook
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:41:27
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Better front mount oil cooler installed
> >
> > I will be
installing a new *SETRAB* oil cooler on
> > my StealthTT. It will
be bigger, better and *much*
> > less expensive than the puny $700
Mazda OEM cooler.
> >
> > It should take a couple of weeks to
gather parts,
> > install etc. I will NOT be removing the
front
> > end to install either.
> >
> > Expect an
update with links to my digital pics.
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
As
promised I have installed the Setrab except it only
took 12 days instead of 2
weeks. I didn't have to remove
the front end but as is usual with our
cars there were a few
things to work around, space restriction problems
etc.
I attempted to use the big monster Setrab model #634 -
34 row
cooler. It's 10.75 x 13":
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab1.jpgUnfortunately,
this cooler was just too big to fit
in the front - either on the driver's
side or the passenger
side. It was too tall and hung out the bottom
past
the spash guards etc. Space for attached fittings must
also be
accounted for and that also adds another
2 inches or so ....
So - I
then took a look at the next smaller sized
Setrab which is model # 625.
It's a 25 row cooler
and measures 7.5 x 13". This fit well even
with the
90 degree AN fittings.
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab2.jpgI
*almost* decided to use 2 of these in series - this
has been done on other
cars and I thought about using one
on each side of the front end but I was
told that this
particular cooler is supposed to be good up to 700 HP
due
to it's design and efficiency. It's also much thicker than
stock.
But I wanted to be sure so I added some insurance:
Even though a single
#625 Setrab doesn't completely
cover or block air flow on a single side, I
finally
elected to use only one in order to retain as much
air flow to
radiator as possible BUT I decided to add
a SPAL 7.5" pull type fan and
attach it to the back side
of the cooler:
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab3.jpgThe
Spal fan is supposed to be one of the best
available, is sealed and
waterproof and flows
440 CFM. Even sitting still at idle my oil will
be
cooled which should come it handly for those stop
light drags that seem
to pop up from time to time.
Air flow can even be felt from the other
side
of the radiator towards the bottom where
the fan is located.
I
ended up installing on the passenger side.
Simple L type aluminum brackets
were used to
attach via screws and bolts to existing stock bolts
at lower
left and at the middle brace where the
power steering line bracket was
attached.
I moved the power steering line down and used
and existing
empty hole in the black stock center
bracket that runs verticle in the middel
of the front
end. I repositioned the passenger side horn
to the
driver's side for more room.
Passenger side front mount
installed:
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab4.jpgView
of hoses/connectors before splash
guard reinstallation:
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab5.jpgNotice
power steering lines moved down and
attached at bottom of verticle stock
bracket instead
of middle up of bracket.
Nothing touches the condenser
including the
power steering lines. There is good clearance
between
the pull fan located on the back side of
the cooler and the
condenser.
My old stock cooler which had been front
mounted since 1994
was attached directly to
the condenser using fan ties - there was no
space
between the two so I was happy to
improve on that too.
Stock cooler
next to Setrab 625:
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab6.jpghttp://www.qsl.net/n5mya/setrab7.jpgI
used a switch to wire the fan to come on
when the car is started but I may
end up going
to cockpit mounted switch. I did allow easy
access to
the switch wire connecter in case I wanted to
easily disconnect it from up
top under the hood.
I'm still not sure which way I will go on this since
I
could even wire a switch to the radiator fan but since
water temps and
oil temps might differ I'm not leaning
this direction.
All in all it
seems to have worked out well. While I wasn't
able to fit the monster
sized Setrab, the #625 (700 HP) model
did fit and still allows some flow
(plus air from fan) on the
passenger side. The drivers side is
completey unobstructed.
When checking for leaks, I let the car idle for a
while and revved it
some so the valve would open up to allow oil flow to
cooler.
The line leaving the cooler was noticably cooler than the
line
coming in. There was a major difference when holding
each line
in my hand.
The project was time consuming but I'm slower about
things
like this than some people. I wanted it done just right and had
to
trim one of the ultra thin splash guards / air diverters on the
passenger
side. L brackets had to be cut and drilled but they were
simple
in design and the cooler is rock stable.
The Setrab # 625 can
be purchased for $160:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htmhttp://www.crracing.com/estore/CFPreviousNext.cfm?start=11&category=setrabThe
Spal 7.5 " fan was $75:
http://www.spal-usa.com/html/pgtablel.htmhttp://www.dewitts.com/pages/categoryresults.asp?catID=13I
probably spent $100 on fittings and hose and I never had to
remove the front
end.
- - tds
Now I need to rest for a day ....:)
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 15:48:08
-0600
From: "norm kami" <
normross@telusplanet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: my toy
thanks a lot . any one know about mods for r/t .
THANKS
NORM
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 17:46:06
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: about hydrolock and electrical probs
You may want to consider the
AEM cold air intake design that closes
when water is inducted.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Samuel Mercedes Jr.
[mailto:elrey@techcom.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 1:03 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: about hydrolock and electrical probs
I've heard that hydrolock
can come from those cold air intake thingy's. I've
heard of some people that
run if straight to the bottom of the car and
sometimes they fun over a water
puddle, or it's real heavy rain, next thing
they know they got water in the
engine. (thats one of the reasons I am kinda
scared to put a cold air
intake.) guess I will just go with a normal intake
for know.
Also, I
seem to be having "electrical" problems. does anyone else have
similar
problems. My passanger side window just "decided" not to roll down
today, my
suspension is stuck in sport mode.(I think the computer just froze
on that
mode) also when I pull hard turns, like almost 90 degree turns,
(maybe 60 or
70 degrees) the car just cuts off, like there is a lose wire or
somthing is
shorting. whenever i turn on my left or right turn signal, the
needle in the
voltage gauge moves up and down at the same frequency my turn
signal blinks.
(electrical grimlens I guess)
But any input/advice would be greatly
appriciated., Also the car just cut
off on me today i was going about 80 down
a country road and i took a slight
curve hit the brakes and all the lights in
the dash lite up! lost power
steering, and braking pressure. (real scary at
80)
Thanks for the help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 20:18:21
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Japanese Service Manual
Wondering if anyone knows anyone that
might have access to one of
these... There are some things I am dying
to find out about our
japanese counterparts, or any RHD style car (euro, I
would assume also).
Also, if anyone has or knows of any ties to
junkyards or cheap parts
places for these cars that are RHD...
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:00:26
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED ADVICE
I checked the resistance of TPS at WOT it read 4K
Ohms and when throttle
fully closed it read 1K Ohms. Should I retard the TPS
to 0.5K Ohms at
throttle fully closed so that the fuel consumption is not
flooded at idle
and will not pinging at 80 mph. Since the pinging always
occur at 80 mph if
I accelerate or press the throttle hardly but if I
increase the throttle
slowly the sound of pinging will be heard not
hardly.
Please kindly advice me if I am not right.
Kindly
regards,
Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 21:08:27
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Thanks for the input, I
will be renting a Uhaul truck and car dolly tomorrow and towing it about 200
miles. Question: My boss said to disconnect the rear drive
shaft??? My car is a FWD model I don't think there is anything to
disconnect for the rear wheels while towing is there?
Thanks again
to those who are helping.
- -Erik
>I was just thinking about
this too. But in his initial post he indicated
>that the car was
switching back an forth by itself and eventually settled
>in the 3rd gear
(usually the limp mode gear) and then died completely. The
>smoke and and
the brown fluid is another indication that it is not as
>simple as just a
cable.
>
>But it never hurts to check everything. I fixed an auto
transmission once
>by simply lubricating the throttle cable.
Unfortunately there seems to be a
>real failure in this
case.
>
>Erik, you can get a U-Haul trailer lust like you described,
or you could
>call you friends to come with a tow rope and tow you home
on a rope. You
>have to have the engine running all the way while on the
rope for the power
>brakes and steering to
work.
>
>Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 23:15:00
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
You are correct...
Don't have anything to worry about on a FWD model...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Erik Petterson
Sent: Sunday,
May 12, 2002 11:08 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Thanks for the input, I will be renting
a Uhaul truck and car dolly
tomorrow and towing it about 200 miles.
Question: My boss said to
disconnect the rear drive shaft??? My
car is a FWD model I don't think
there is anything to disconnect for the rear
wheels while towing is
there?
Thanks again to those who are
helping.
- -Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 00:15:08
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
LOL! No rear drive shaft
on your car either. Same with the flywheel and the
synchros. Good luck with
that tranny.
Philip
At 00:08 5/13/2002, Erik Petterson
wrote:
>Thanks for the input, I will be renting a Uhaul truck and car
dolly
>tomorrow and towing it about 200 miles. Question: My
boss said to
>disconnect the rear drive shaft??? My car is a FWD
model I don't think
>there is anything to disconnect for the rear wheels
while towing is there?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 01:04:39
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NEED ADVICE
Check the manual for what the TPS resistance should
be. Adjust it if you
can to be close to the specified value. If the TPS
resistance is within the
specified limits, you should not be able to affect
your air/fuel mixture by
fiddling with it.
Even if I follow your
logic (which is not correct), you are trying somehow
to make it leaner at
idle and get rid of pinging at WOT. If you make it
leaner across the board
then you will also make it leaner at WOT and your
pinging will
increase.
I am assuming you have a naturally-aspirated engine. Then your
pinging
could be causes by 1) low-octane gasoline, 2) too much ignition
timing
advance, 3) lean A/F mixture. The A/F mixture could be lean in only
some
cylinders because some of the injectors could be dirty or one of the O2
sensors is failing.
Adjust your timing (I thing you can do it if you
have a 1st gen car), put
in good gas and use injector cleaner. See what
happens. Good luck.
Philip
At 23:00 5/12/2002, CV. Duta Karya
Teknik wrote:
>I checked the resistance of TPS at WOT it read 4K Ohms and
when throttle
>fully closed it read 1K Ohms. Should I retard the TPS to
0.5K Ohms at
>throttle fully closed so that the fuel consumption is not
flooded at idle
>and will not pinging at 80 mph. Since the pinging always
occur at 80 mph if
>I accelerate or press the throttle hardly but if I
increase the throttle
>slowly the sound of pinging will be heard not
hardly.
>Please kindly advice me if I am not right.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 01:13:37
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Japanese Service Manual
There is something about all of those
islanders (like Cody) who are just
dying to drive on the wrong side of the
road.
England, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, ... South Padre Island,
TX :-O
Philip
At 21:18 5/12/2002, cody
wrote:
>Wondering if anyone knows anyone that might have access to one
of
>these... There are some things I am dying to find out about
our
>japanese counterparts, or any RHD style car (euro, I would assume
also).
>
>
>Also, if anyone has or knows of any ties to
junkyards or cheap parts
>places for these cars that are
RHD...
>
>-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 02:37:52
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: what causes knock?
I know that things like poor gas, advanced
timing, and lean a/f mixtures can
cause knock, but what else? What
other things can cause it? Malfunctioning
coils? Low
compression?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 01:14:17
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark plug & ignition wire replacement DONE!
Finally, I got
around to installing the Crane Cam Firewire 8mm yellow wires
and new platinum
plugs. It took me the better part of the afternoon and I
finished up about an
hour ago. I Dremeled out the looms that I didn't break
but need to get some
larger ones to clean things up as some of the wires
were a bit longer than
stock. Replacing the hard, original tubing and piping
would appear to be a
good idea as well.
Looking at the old plugs, they just look a bit worn.
The electrodes are
rounded, especially on the front right and middle plugs.
The rears look
better than the front ones, generally to my untrained eye.
There are some
ashy white deposits. The front right has very little
discoloration above the
nut on the insulator. The front middle has dark brown
discoloration here,
ashy white and rounded electrode. The front left is
discolored but it is
more whitish blue than brown, has ashy white but the
electrode is hardly
rounded, still somewhat pointy. Rear right is dark brown
discolored on the
insulator, ashy white, electrode not nearly as worn as
front right and
middle. Rear middle has discoloration of white and blue with
some brown on
insulator, a bit of the ashy white and you can still see the
two steps in
the point of the electrode. Rear left has white blue, almost
black
discoloration with a bit of brown there too, ashy white on one side,
carbon
on other, electrode still nice and two step pointed. Front 3 plugs
seemed to
have more oil on the threads than did the rears. They are Denso
PK20PR-P11.
The one's I stuck in are Bosch Platinum 4201, which are supposed
to have a
.043" or .044" gap. I think I'm going to run a couple of tanks of
gas and
pull them to see what the new plugs look like after several hundred
miles.
I have no idea how many miles were on the old plugs. I assume they
were
replaced at 60K before I got the car. 100,766 miles on the odometer
today.
There was a lot of gunk in the intake manifold and in the plenum.
I'd almost
like to get mine polished just to get it totally cleaned up. I got
as much
gunk out as possible, using the shop vac while scrubbing with clean
rags.
I'm thinking I can tackle my timing belt here next. Also still
need to
replace brake fluid. The fun never ends.
Also slapped in some
Silver Star low beam headlights that are supposed to be
super bright white.
Not sure if they are much brighter yet. Anybody tried
these expensive
bulbs?
Anything wrong with the Bosch plugs or the gap? They sure look
different
than the Denso. If I didn't torque the plugs quite enough, what
will the
results be, look like, etc.?
Please feel free to chastised or
provide advice as to whether or not my
endeavors of today were wise. The car
started and I took a spin around the
block so I couldn't have done too much
damage.;-)
New clutch is broken in pretty good. Got a wimpy 7.54 0-60,
then a 6.43 0-60
this morning on the G-Tech Pro prior to the plug change. I
can't launch
worth a darn. I really should get some professional help - on
several things
- - driving skills, golf lessons, etc. Maybe someday.
Horsepower run showed
288hp or something. That sound right? It jumped up to
over 400hp for a
moment while in second and third.
My speaker setup is
almost completed as well. I'll have a web page setup
soon detailing the saga.
Basically, I ended up with JBL 2.5" 2 way in the
dash, Kicker R6c midrange
6.5" in the doors, stock rear 6x9 and an Infinity
Basslink 10" 200 watt self
powered subwoofer. Stock amp, head unit, CD
changer. The dash cutouts are
actually 3 1/16" on the 95. So there are a few
options but these little JBL
GTO220 sound pretty clean. I can't decide what
to replace the rear 6x9 with
if they head south. Anybody replace the rears
with 6.75" mid-subwoofers, 6.5"
component setup or other? Any advantage over
the 6x9 size?
The
driver's side door speaker seems louder than the passenger side door
speaker.
Tried switching wires without much noticeable effect. Anybody know
if the
speakers are wired in parallel or in series? Dash and doors together
or
separate? Anybody got a schematic? How many watts are going to
each
speaker?
The defect in my head unit display is growing. It
started off looking like a
few stuck pixels and now is half the size of a
dime in between the track
numbers on the CD display. This just started when I
had the clutch done.
Coincidence? Weird...
Bedtime. Night
all...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 04:00:03
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark plug & ignition wire replacement DONE!
how did you
get the 288 figure if there were spikes to 400? What kind of
mods do
you have? A 400hp figure on the gtech would be awesome for
stock
turbos, that is for sure!! Did you enter around 4000 lbs for the
weight?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Desert Fox
Sent: Monday, May
13, 2002 3:14 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Spark plug & ignition wire replacement DONE!
-
--snip--
New clutch is broken in pretty good. Got a wimpy 7.54 0-60, then a
6.43 0-60
this morning on the G-Tech Pro prior to the plug change. I can't
launch
worth a darn. I really should get some professional help - on several
things
- - driving skills, golf lessons, etc. Maybe someday. Horsepower run
showed
288hp or something. That sound right? It jumped up to over 400hp for
a
moment while in second and third.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT
VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 01:23:21
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Calculator
I found a interesting web page. I plugged
in the numbers for my 92 Stealth
and it calculated the hp to 308 with 9 psi
boost. Pretty close. Torque was
way off. Something fun to
play with.
http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html#readmeDoug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 03:43:23
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
about hydrolock and electrical probs
I would look for a bad ground.
I don't know any details about the
electrical system in these cars but what
you describe could come from a
bad ground connection.
"Samuel Mercedes
Jr." wrote:
[...]
> Also, I seem to be having "electrical" problems.
does anyone else have
> similar problems. My passanger side window just
"decided" not to roll down
> today, my suspension is stuck in sport
mode.(I think the computer just froze
> on that mode) also when I pull
hard turns, like almost 90 degree turns,
> (maybe 60 or 70 degrees) the
car just cuts off, like there is a lose wire or
> somthing is shorting.
whenever i turn on my left or right turn signal, the
> needle in the
voltage gauge moves up and down at the same frequency my turn
> signal
blinks. (electrical grimlens I guess)
>
> But any input/advice
would be greatly appriciated., Also the car just cut
> off on me today i
was going about 80 down a country road and i took a slight
> curve hit the
brakes and all the lights in the dash lite up! lost power
> steering, and
braking pressure. (real scary at 80)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 06:39:56
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Spark plug & ignition wire replacement DONE!
Paul:
Bosch Platinum
seem to have more than average number complaints about
problems IF used at
high boost. Generally IMO avoid them for high boost
and/or nitrous
oxide applications.
IMO: NGK Racing plugs are my "go to" plugs. Rule of
thumb is one heat range
colder (than stock) for each 100hp above stock you
are making. I used 2
heatranges colder on my cars with nitrous without
any meltage. I did have
several Denso Iridiums crack the ceramic so I
never use those anymore
either.
HKS racing plugs used to be NGK, but now
are Denso, so I get mine from
Monarch Products. Dunno if anyplace is
cheaper for NGK racing plugs...
When you upshift, the car will "surge
forward" a bit due to flywheel being
faster than car; this gives false
hp/torque spike on accelerometer-based
performance computers like G-Tech and
Vericom. Best way to do hp is just
pick a gear like 3rd; start your run
from a stop, accelerate moderately
until in 3rd gear THEN floor it; once done
with 2nd or (better but faster
speeds) 3rd at 7000rpm, just let off the
gas/don't yank 4th at full power.
You want the values smoothly from only 1
gear, without upshift spikes.
I have AutoOptiks Astra Ultrawhite 80 Watt low,
100W highbeams on my 94
projector headlights. They look faintly
blueish, but I can't say I am
impressed that they light up the road that
well...IMO...compared to my 2001
GMC Sierra pickup, with stock
headlights.
Jack T.
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com> [snips]
>
I installed Crane Cam Firewire 8mm yellow wires+new platinum plugs.
>
Looking at the old plugs, they just look a bit worn. They are
Denso
PK20PR-P11.
> I stuck in Bosch Platinum 4201, which have .044"
gap.
> Also Silver Star low beam headlights that are
> super bright
white. Not sure if they are much brighter yet.
> Anything wrong with Bosch
plugs/gap? They look different than Denso.
> Got 6.43 0-60 on G-Tech Pro
prior to plug change.
> Horsepower run showed 288hp; jumped to >400hp
for
> moment while in second and third.
> Paul 95 black 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:33:04
-0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission fluid leak
Hello All,
I changed my
transmission fluid this weekend with redline MTL/MT
50/50 Mix. It seems that
now my transmission is leaking from the drain
plug. Anyone know where I can
get the metal gaskit/washer/o-ring for
the plug. I have torqued everything
down to spec and do not know what
else it could be. It is a slight drip, but
a leak all the same.
Also, Can I drain the fluid into a clean
container and reuse
it. Hate to toss it out after only a day.
Thanks,
Joseph
3kgt vr4, K&N FIPK
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 07:15:27
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transmission fluid leak
If the leak isn't that bad, then you
could use teflon tape. You can buy it
at just about any hardware
store. You would have to drain your transmission
again. Then wrap
the tape around the threads of the drain plug. Be sure to
drain your
fluid into a clean container so you can reuse it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:38:22
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help: Car won't start
I would agree that it is a spark
problem. as compression and fuel seem to
be fine. I pulled a plug
and set it on the plenum and noticed that it
doesn't spark all the time (when
it should and sometimes the spark appears
week. Where should I begin in
troubleshooting this. I check the
resistance of the coils and it is all
within spec. Also, i checked for B+
at the connector to the coils and
it is there. I check for continuity to
ground and it is continuous,
however it /was/ about 67 Ohms...seemed a
little high. Where should I
go from here?
- --Thanks,
Chris Cook
On Sun, 12
May 2002, Donald Ashby wrote:
> If your spark plugs are wet and there
is fuel on the heads, I would say it
> is a spark problem, either coil,
plugs or wires, test out those things, it
> sounds like your spark isn't
hot enough to ignite the fuel, or there is not
> enough voltage, or your
getting the spark blown out, but that shouldn't
> happen at idle. Hope
that helps!
> Donald
> -1993 3000GT VR-4
> (Stock)
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Cook" <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 1:10 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Help: Car won't
start
>
> > Recently I've had an idle problem, which I thought
was the ISC. But
> > before I could replace it, I got in the car
after work and it was running
> > REALLY rich. Black smoke coming
out and it wouldn't accellerate hardly at
> > all. I managed to
limp home and it was doing the same thing. Running
> > very rich
and then stalling. I checked for intake leakes and such and
> >
coudln't find anything. 2 days later, I started troubleshooting and
the
> > car woudln't start at all. It would just crank away a
couple times it
> > sounded like there was combustion, but it just got
worse and worse to
> > where there was no combustion at all.
>
>
> > So...I was reading 3si and thought it might be the common ECU
problem. So
> > I pulled it and sure enough the capacitors were
leaking elektrolyte all
> > over the board. I tried replacing the
caps, but it didn't fix it. So, I
> > ordered a replacement ECU
from foreignecurepair.com I thought that was
> > going to fix my
problem...plug and play. But...Plugged it in...same
> >
problem.
> >
> > I pulled the front plugs and they all appear
to be sparking. I plugged
> > the TMO Datalogger in and there are
no error codes and all the sensors are
> > reporting normal
values. When I pulled the plugs, they seemed to be wet
> > with
fuel so I assume that fuel is getting injected to the cylinders.
>
>
> > At this point, I am at a loss of what to try. Please
help...any
> > suggestions??? I really need to get my car working
again
> >
> > Also, I don't have any mods that I think would
affect this. Only engine
> > mods are:
> >
> >
1992 3000GT VR-4
> > AVC-R Boost Controller
> > K&N
FIPK
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
Cook
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 07:38:07
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Transmission fluid leak
You could try tape but that's the wrong solution
--- the tape is for applications
where the seal is made at the threads. In
the case of the transmission drain
plug the seal is made between the head of
the bolt and the transmission case.
A dealer should be able to get you one or
a good parts store should have
a collection of pan plugs and
washers.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 13, 2002 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission fluid
leak
> If the leak isn't that bad, then you could use teflon
tape. You can buy it
> at just about any hardware store. You
would have to drain your transmission
> again. Then wrap the tape
around the threads of the drain plug. Be sure to
> drain your fluid
into a clean container so you can reuse it.
>
> Doug
> 92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:39:13
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: what causes knock?
No coils and no low compression could
cause knock.
High compression, hot spark plugs that overheat and cause
preignition and
then knock, same with soot inside the combustion chamber and
rough edges
inside the combustion chamber. Bad combustion chamber design and
spark
plug location, slow charge motion due to badly designed intake ports,
high
temperatures of all the parts involved, etc...
Philip
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I
know that things like poor gas, advanced timing, and lean a/f
mixtures
can
cause knock, but what else? What other things can cause
it?
Malfunctioning
coils? Low compression?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 07:43:56
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transmission fluid leak
Joseph
Be careful not to tighten
your drain plug to tight, it will break part of
the drain hole off. You can
go to napa or another parts store and get a 18mm
drain plug with a rubber
gasket---it worked for me. Mike S 92 rt tt
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 13, 2002 7:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Transmission fluid
leak
> Hello All,
>
> I changed my
transmission fluid this weekend with redline MTL/MT
> 50/50 Mix. It seems
that now my transmission is leaking from the drain
> plug. Anyone know
where I can get the metal gaskit/washer/o-ring for
> the plug. I have
torqued everything down to spec and do not know what
> else it could be.
It is a slight drip, but a leak all the same.
> Also, Can I
drain the fluid into a clean container and reuse
> it. Hate to toss it out
after only a day.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joseph
> 3kgt
vr4, K&N FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 08:38:22
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: NEED ADVICE
> I am assuming you have a naturally-aspirated
engine. Then
> your pinging could be causes by 1) low-octane
gasoline,
> 2) too much ignition timing advance, 3) lean A/F
mixture.
or 4) too high compression
#4 could be caused by carbon
build-up in the combustion chamber and/or on
the piston tops.
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:50:22
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
Have you put a jack under the
hub to relieve the weight on the lower strut
mount?
I'm not certain that
is actually rubber, just metal. Put some penetrating
oil on it or
WD40.
A last resort is to go ahead an disconnect the top mounting nuts,
lower the
strut and wheel assy, and then you can move the strut around to
loosen it a
bit.
Not reusing the strut? Beat hell out of it with
a mallet!
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Matt Jannusch [SMTP:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Saturday, May 11,
2002 10:28 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get rear
shocks off?
>
> I'm trying to install a set of Eibach springs on a
friend's car and am
> having a terrible time trying to get the rear shocks
off the lower mount
> on
> the wheel hub. There's a rubber
bushing inside the end of the shock, and
> it
> appears to be stuck
nice and good to both metal surfaces. Anyone have any
> tricks on
how to get this thing apart? I'm sure the other side is the
>
same
> way. It is on a '91 RT/TT, so those parts have been together
a good long
> time.
>
> I've tried a big prybar to try to pop
it off to no avail. WD40'd the heck
> out of both of them to see if
it would help. So far no luck.
>
> Any advice would be
greatly appreciated....
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#839
***************************************
