Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, May 12
2002 Volume 01 : Number 838
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:20:26 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
> Ok, now I am confused. Every car that I have ever seen has the
exhaust
> mounted to rubber bushings, flexible bands and what not.
As I understand
> it, a flex section is there to aid these flexible mounts
so that the
mounts
> are not over stressed. Having a flex section
anywhere before the first
> exhaust mount should accomplish this.
The flex sections are there to minimize stress to the flanges in between
the
parts. There is thermal expansion and the flanges and mounts are
under
stress. A flex section is able to minimize this stress. Also the longer
the
piping is the more internal vibration due to the exhaust pulses are
caused.
If any resonator chamber has been removing this is very noticeable by
the
annoying droning (Borla without baffles). These pulses again causes
stress
to the whole system and the hangers just eliminate the transfer from
the
exhaust to the chassis.
I installed a flex section in the downpipe before the y. This to
decouple
the turbos. Another flex part is after the y to decouple the rear
turbo from
the rest of the exhaust. For the other exhaust parts I see no need
for more
flex sections.
------------------------------
This is a long (4.5 min) video.
Pretty spectacular, though.
Reminds
me of rallying.
Rich
------------------------------
Got this spam in my e-mail.
If any of you are looking for an aftermarket
warranty, give it a go.
Let us know what they say about our TT cars.
(sorry if I sent this already. I thought I did, but couldn't find any
evidence that it went)
Protect yourself with an extended warranty for your car, minivan, truck or
SUV. Rates can be as much as 60% cheaper than at the
dealer!
Extend your existing
Warranty.
Get a new Warranty
even if your original Warranty
expired.
Get a FREE NO
OBLIGATION Extended Warranty Quote NOW. Find out how much it would cost to
Protect YOUR investment.
This
is a FREE
Service.
Simply fill out our FREE NO OBLIGATION form and
find
out.
It's That
Easy!
Visit our website:
http://211.78.96.242/auto/warranty.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:06:39 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: OT: Re:
Team3S: Here's a warranty
These spammers do not even have a permanent website. I received a similar
email to a different URL but the same-looking site. Some moron guy called
me back the next day. He went like:
- - Hi, I am calling about your Dodge. <which one, I have
three>
- - So you have a low-mileage car. Have you been taking good care of it?
<yeah>
- - Let me forward your file to the correct department. They will call you
back. <why the hell did you call me>
I am still waiting for them to call me back.
Philip
------------------------------
You are correct in your understanding. Check the clutch master
cylinder
and see how much fluid is in there. It's the tiny cylinder
with a white
cap in the upperrightmost corner of the engine bay. If
this is low, you
may have a leak in the system. Check under the
carpeting by the clutch
pedal to see if the master cylinder is leaking.
The slave cylinder or
the hose that attaches between the hardline from the MC
and the SC may
also be leaking. To check these, you'll have to remove
the airbox, BPV,
and possibly the battery. Have someone depress the
clutch pedal and
check if there's fluid coming out anywhere.
Another possibility is that you have air in your line. Check
www.stealth316.com for bleeding
procedures.
Joe
91 RT/TT black
Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My understanding has always been that when the
clutch pedal is fully
> depressed, the clutch is completely disengaged.
Assuming that's correct, who
> can explain this - with the clutch all the
way to the floor, i try to put
> the car into gear (this is most evident
with reverse, for some reason) and
> it starts rolling in the respective
direction?! Does that mean that the
> clutch isn't disengaging completely?
If so, who's fault is it - is it a
> faulty clutch or was it installed
improperly. In either case, that means
> that the clutch has been beating
on my synchros, which as we all know aren't
> too good to begin with...
fun...
>
> I'll skip the rant on the incompetency of mitsu
mechanics, suffice it to
> say - stay clear of satan!
>
>
Alex
>
> '95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:38:23 -0700
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
dodge Stealth
hello
i found the problem whit the rpm.
a broken thermostat.
now is
everything ok.
the engine wont work properly. it feels like one or two
"kolvar" in the cylinder get stuck. engine problems?
the car has gone 11000
miles.
had this problem before but it started to go well.
the engine come
sometimes. when it goes wrong it has 10 hp.
i want 222 hp.
hans
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:00:34 +0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: First track day experience!
This morning I participated in my first track event, held at an
airfield near the town of Elvington in North Yorkshire, England
(
http://www.motorsport-events.co.uk/elvington.htm).
The course was
marked out with cones and was approximately 2 miles in
length. It was
a beautiful, cool day and there were only eight cars in
attendance. It
was non-competitive and an "open pit" policy allowed
drivers to enter
and exit the track at any time. It cost $120 for six
hours of track
time (10am - 5pm with an hour off for lunch) plus $15 for
helmet rental
and $32 for 30 minutes of one-on-one instruction. In
short, absolutely
perfect for a first timer!
After a brief meeting to discuss rules, flags, etc., we took four slow
laps to learn the track. It consisted of (sorry, I don't know all of
the right terminology!) a long straight, fast weave to the right, tight
chicane (hard right-left-right, long sweeping right, shorter straight,
tight left-right-right-left and a deceiving pair of rights leading back
into the long straight.
Cars were staggared at the start and I began third behind two Porsche
928S4s (one had slicks and the other was REALLY loud) and ahead of a
Mitsu Lancer Evo VI and a few race-prepared vehicles (an old TVR, a
little Carterham Seven and some kind of MR-2 looking thing with a big
wing). Unfortunately, I wore one of my front Porterfield R4S pads down
to the backing plate and had to call it a day early (and limp home),
but
here are a few observations:
1) Handling is nice and neutral (Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 all seasons,
stock suspension with ECS on Sport). It tends to understeer slightly
under throttle and oversteer when you lift or brake. Four wheel drifts
are easy and a lot of fun (except when I drifted right through a line
of
cones and off the track!).
2) These cars are FAST! I pulled past the Porsches on the straights
without too much trouble. The AVC-R was set to 1.00.
3) The brakes suck. At one point, I was running down the MR-2 looking
car and found myself with the brakes to the floor, ABS pulsing
wondering
if I was going to slow down in time to avoid rear-ending it
and making the
turn. After that experience, I would accelerate up to
about 90 on the
straights and then coast up to the turn. This took a
lot of fun out of
it; if you're considering a track day, invest in
better brakes.
There will be another event in two weeks. If I can get some new
pads
in time, I'll be there!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:21:43 -0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
It sounds like PowerHaus II would offer different gearing for
the
transmission, which could be useful.
It also sounds like they are not
planning to make any other
changes/improvements. I wonder, since they
are digging into it anyway, if
they could improve the synchronizer efficiency
in a real way, like Metric
Mechanic does for BMW Getrags and for awhile had
promised, but failed, to do
for us?
Would their gears be stronger in any way, I'm not a metallurgist but
maybe
higher nickel/softer to make them less prone to breakage when shock
loaded?
I haven't broken any gears myself but I think a few others
have. Shelling
out $7-8000 for a trans with different ratios, that will
need a re-do for
synchros ANYway in a couple years, gets costly. Either
BETTER
synchronizers, or easy parts commonality with CURRENT synchronizers
would be
OK. Hopefully they can make some other improvements too for
that sort of
money...
...someday, maybe we'll need larger diameter input
shafts (just dreaming
about snapping that twig-size shaft, I think one person
has already)
Jack T.
Who just got a Kormex rebuilt 6 speed for <$2000...
-
---------------------------------------------
> Dear Friends-
> I
was referred to this Web Site by Matt at Dynamic Racing.
> My company,
PowerHaus II, is the leading company in the world regarding
> variety and
quantity of special gear ratios for Porsche gearboxes. Cars
> with
our gears have won in class at the 12 Hours of Sebring, 24 Hours of
>
Daytona, Petit LeMans, numerous Club and Historic events, and have
seen
top
> finishes at the 24 Hours of LeMans in the Courage Porsches,
with one car
> being driven by Mario and Michael Andretti.
> We also
have made and are making race and performance ratios for BMW and
> Subaru
WRX cars, and may shortly being going into Nissan gears.
> I have a highly
developed 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo, which I converted to
the
> six speed
gearbox when it became available, and have considered making a
> close
ratio gear stack for it. After talking with Matt, who was
excited
to
> hear about this, I thought it would be good to get
some feedback from
other
> owners.
> I have analyzed the gearing
for the six speed, where I will put my main
> focus, and there is room for
vast improvement. Correct gearing would make
> these cars MUCH faster and
a lot more enjoyable to drive.
> A proper gearbox will cost between $ 7000
and $ 8000, depending on how the
> final gear stack comes out.
> For
quarter mile, quick street use, roadracing and top speed
runs,
everyone
> will be able to benefit big-time from what we can
build.
> Please respond to me if you could be serious about such a
gearbox.
> Chris Fisher President, PowerHaus II
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:33:18 -0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake
Upgrade, 14 inch
Here is an ad from Brembo USA I got, offers a free extra set of
brakepads
for brake system order. I didn't get the free pads
:(
These are the brakes I got. They are $3295, and available with red,
black
or silver "F50" calipers. I got them a bit cheaper through MVP
Motorsports.
These calipers have 4 pistons (2x40 and 2x44mm) and use the same
pads as the
Brembo "F40" calipers, that Stillen's Brembo kit comes
with. They worked
great at Road America, and look really cool!
Yes they are crossdrilled
(alot) and though I'm not a big fan of
crossdrilling, I was willing to try
them with these 14" brakes hoping that if
they DIDN'T give trouble/cracking
then I can enjoy a little rotational weight
savings too (have my cake AND
eat it)...so far so good.
Jack T.
-
-----------------------
"Buy a Gran Turismo Brake System and Get a Free
Replacement Axle Set of
Brake Pads! Contact Brembo today at 1-800-325-3994 or
sales@brembo.com to
take advantage of
this offer before it expires on May 31, 2002. To redeem
this offer offline
please mention the promotional code "053102" to the
Brembo customer service
representative.
Gran Turismo, is comprised of both 1 or 2-piece vented rotors
that are 12 to
14 inch cross-drilled and/or slotted. In the 2-piece system,
billet aluminum
hats are application specific and have been individually
machined to
engineering specifications. The marriage of these pieces create a
"floating
disc" which improves heat related stress, brake performance and
pedal feel.
The Gran Turismo brake system also comes with your choice of
black, red or
silver calipers."
- -----------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:48:31 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
Let me describe what happened and I just want to know if someone can tell
me if they think the whole tranny went out or if it is fixxable. While
driving on a road trip last night I was driving along at like 65 up and down a
mountain pass and a couple of times the car just dropped into a real low gear
(it's a 91 SOHC Stealth with Auto trans.) and it would stay there for like 20
seconds and then it hit neutral and then found the right gear again and was ok
for another 100 miles. Then it started happening more often and eventually
could not get from 3rd to 4th. I noticed when I parked it was smoking a
little from the passengers side. I tried checking the tranny fluid but
couldn't really get a good reading. I noticed the fluid was dirty
brown.(I've owned the car for 5 months and have never had any tranny work done
and possibly the girl that i bought it from didn't either.) So I kept
driving and was an hour away from my destination so I was going like 45 miles an
hour at ab!
out 3500 rpm. Well it just got worse from there and
soon lost 3rd gear then second and when we finally pulled off the road I could
get it to start up but it would not get in gear at all, not even reverse.
So I guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this
tranny into the ground. My friend who knows a little about cars said it
might be the flywheel??? I am about 200 miles from any big city. And
the car is about 40 miles away from where I'm at now in a really small
city.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have to get
this resolved by monday.
Thanks.
- -Erik
91 Stealth Base
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 12:42:36 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
It's an automatic transmission so there are no synchros or flywheel --- it
has a flex plate
and a torque converter.
As to problems it sound like the fluid is cooked --- usually not a good
sign. It should
be a clear red color and smell like oil, if it has a burnt
smell it may be the clutch
pack went out. Make sure the fluin level is
correct, the trans will not work if the fluid
gets too low --- if it's burnt
and brown replace it. I'd just top it off and see if you regain
function, if
you do drain it, change the filter and try to get home so a professional
can
take a look at it.
Jim
Berry
===========================================================
> Let me describe what happened and I just want to know if someone
can tell me if they think the whole tranny went out or if it
is
fixxable. While driving on a road trip last night I was driving
along at like 65 up and down a mountain pass and a couple of times
the car
just dropped into a real low gear (it's a 91 SOHC Stealth with Auto trans.) and
it would stay there for like 20 seconds and
then it hit neutral and then
found the right gear again and was ok for another 100 miles. Then it
started happening more often and
eventually could not get from 3rd to
4th. I noticed when I parked it was smoking a little from the passengers
side. I tried
checking the tranny fluid but couldn't really get a good
reading. I noticed the fluid was dirty brown.(I've owned the car for
5
months and have never had any tranny work done and possibly the girl that i
bought it from didn't either.) So I kept driving and
was an hour away
from my destination so I was going like 45 miles an hour at ab!
>
out 3500 rpm. Well it just got worse from there and soon lost 3rd gear
then second and when we finally pulled off the road I
could get it to start
up but it would not get in gear at all, not even reverse.
>
> So I
guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this tranny into the
ground. My friend who knows a little about
cars said it might be the
flywheel??? I am about 200 miles from any big city. And the car is
about 40 miles away from where I'm at
now in a really small
city.
>
> Any help or suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. I have to get this resolved by monday.
>
>
Thanks.
> -Erik
> 91 Stealth Base
------------------------------
Welcome to the road racing fraternity.
Now that you've been bitten by
the bug, you will become committed. In more ways than one.
>It cost $120 for six hours of track
>time (10am - 5pm with an
hour off for lunch) plus $15 for helmet rental
>and $32 for 30 minutes of
one-on-one instruction. In short, absolutely
>perfect for a first
timer!
Good price!
>Unfortunately, I wore one of my front Porterfield R4S pads down
>to the backing plate and had to call it a day early (and limp
home),
One of the first things to learn is to use race pads. Put them in trackside
and go back to street pads the next day. Fortunately, it's easy to change pads
on our cars. Or you might try Carbotech Panther Plus pads, which seem to be the
ONLY race pads you can use on the street. Contact Andie Lin at Carbotech (
"Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com> )to see if he can
get you a set in time.
>
>1) Handling is nice and neutral (Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 all seasons,
>stock suspension with ECS on Sport).
Isn't that great? Having a neutral car is best. Pump them tires up to about
40/38 cold.
It tends to understeer slightly
>under throttle and
oversteer when you lift or brake.
You can get rid of the oversteer by always braking in a straight line and
never lifting in turns.
>3) The brakes suck. At one point, I was running down the MR-2
looking
>car and found myself with the brakes to the floor, ABS pulsing
>wondering if I was going to slow down in time to avoid rear-ending it
>and making the turn.
That was boiled brake fluid. Change to Motul 600. When the brake pedal goes
to the floor, you cooked the fluid. If you have a firm pedal but the car won't
stop, that's faded pads. If you can't find Motul in Yurp, try ATE Super Blue, a
German fluid.
>
>There will be another event in two weeks. If I can get
some new pads
>in time, I'll be there!
Check the 3S web site for advice on upgrading your brakes. Take off the
backing plates so cool air can get in there. One of the cheapest things to do is
run air ducts to cool things down. See
http://www.bazillionbooks.com/hparknov2000.htm
for a nice, cheap, easy way to run brake scoops and ducts.
>
Keep those
Yurpean race reports coming!
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:28:17 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
All true. Top off the fluid to the correct level and if the car cannot move
by itself your only option is to tow it. Do not bother changing the filter
now, this won't revive it.
Philip
At 15:42 5/11/2002, fastmax wrote:
>It's an automatic transmission so
there are no synchros or flywheel --- it
>has a flex plate
>and a
torque converter.
>
>As to problems it sound like the fluid is
cooked --- usually not a good
>sign. It should
>be a clear red
color and smell like oil, if it has a burnt smell it may be
>the
clutch
>pack went out. Make sure the fluin level is correct, the trans
will not
>work if the fluid
>gets too low --- if it's burnt and
brown replace it. I'd just top it off
>and see if you
regain
>function, if you do drain it, change the filter and try to get
home so a
>professional can
>take a look at
it.
>
> Jim
Berry
>===========================================================
>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
> > So I
guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this
> tranny
into the ground. My friend who knows a little about
>cars said it
might be the flywheel??? I am about 200 miles from any big
>city. And the car is about 40 miles away from where I'm
at
>now in a really small city.
------------------------------
Where can I get power for the light in my boost gauge? Its mounted in
a
pillar pod. I don't want to take any dash apart, so easy access would
be
prefered. Mike S 92 rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:27:42 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
I'm trying to install a set of Eibach springs on a friend's car and
am
having a terrible time trying to get the rear shocks off the lower mount
on
the wheel hub. There's a rubber bushing inside the end of the shock,
and it
appears to be stuck nice and good to both metal surfaces. Anyone
have any
tricks on how to get this thing apart? I'm sure the other side
is the same
way. It is on a '91 RT/TT, so those parts have been
together a good long
time.
I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no avail. WD40'd the
heck
out of both of them to see if it would help. So far no luck.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
I need HELP big time my 91 R/T dose not run right when i
give gas
hazesatats all the time HELP NORM
------------------------------
Need sugestion on what plug gap I should use. I've already regap once
now.
I have a new motor -gutted pre cats-test pipe-K/N filter and restrictor
ring
removed from boost valve {1 gen car}. With a autometer boost gauge
I'am
running 12psi. I have the plugs set at .35 now and I still get spark
blow
out. Also I'am using bosch plugs. Should I change plugs to ngk and go
with
.30 or .32 gap setting? Mike S 92 rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:44:45 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: my toy
> I need HELP big time my 91 R/T dose not run right
when i give gas
> hazesatats all the time HELP NORM
Did you change anything recently?
Does it run okay if you accelerate slowly? Then run bad when you push
the
gas further, putting more load on the engine?
Without knowing more, I'd look at the spark plug wires, spark plugs,
fuel
filter, air filter?
Is the car stock or modified? If modified, what all is on it?
Help us help you, give us some more info to go on.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:52:52 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: plug setting
> Need sugestion on what plug gap I should use. I've already regap once
now.
> I have a new motor -gutted pre cats-test pipe-K/N filter and
restrictor
ring
> removed from boost valve {1 gen car}. With a
autometer boost gauge I'am
> running 12psi. I have the plugs set at .35
now and I still get spark blow
> out. Also I'am using bosch plugs. Should
I change plugs to ngk and go with
> .30 or .32 gap setting? Mike S 92 rt
tt
You shouldn't be getting spark blowout at only 12 psi. How did
you
determine that spark blowout is the problem?
I'm assuming that you meant .035" for a gap instead of .35. ;-)
If it really is spark blowout, consider replacing your coils and
power
transistor pack with new factory parts (or at a minimum go through
the
testing procedure in the service manual for the ignition components and
make
sure everything is within spec).
Which Bosch plugs?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:10:47 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: boost gauge light
Pry out the dimmer switch. I think it is the white wire that you need to
use.
Philip
At 22:27 5/11/2002, Mike & Cathy wrote:
>Where can I get power
for the light in my boost gauge? Its mounted in a
>pillar pod. I don't
want to take any dash apart, so easy access would be
>prefered. Mike S 92
rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:23:01 -0400
From: "Chris McFarland" <
cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tricks
to get rear shocks off?
A small gear puller worked like a charm for me.
Chris McFarland
93 Stealth R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it
off to no avail. WD40'd the heck
out of both of them to see if it would
help. So far no luck.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:28:39 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tricks to get rear shocks off?
That's apparently a common problem --- mine required a pry bar [ big
]others
have resorted to heat. Trouble is, if you're trying to reuse the
shocks your
options are limited. There should be a metal bushing inside the
rubber
isolation bushing and it's rusted to the shock mounting bolt, force
and a
good penetrating oil --- maybe some heat on the mounting bolt but
not
enough to melt the rubber ?!?!?!?
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 11, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks
off?
> I'm trying to install a set of Eibach springs on a friend's car
and am
> having a terrible time trying to get the rear shocks off the
lower mount on
> the wheel hub. There's a rubber bushing inside the
end of the shock, and it
> appears to be stuck nice and good to both metal
surfaces. Anyone have any
> tricks on how to get this thing
apart? I'm sure the other side is the same
> way. It is on a
'91 RT/TT, so those parts have been together a good long
> time.
>
> I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no avail. WD40'd
the heck
> out of both of them to see if it would help. So far no
luck.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:29:56 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tricks to get rear shocks off?
You run the risk of pulling the rubber bushing off of the metal
sleeve.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Chris McFarland" <
cm1994@qx.net>
To: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>; "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 11, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks
off?
> A small gear puller worked like a charm for me.
>
>
Chris McFarland
> 93 Stealth R/T TT
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no
avail. WD40'd the heck
> out of both of them to see if it would
help. So far no luck.
>
> Any advice would be greatly
appreciated....
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 01:14:38 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.
At this point I think there is a definite mechanical problem with it.
Fluid is at a good level and it still won't find any gears including
reverse. It will have to be towed I guess. Towing question now...
Has anyone ever towed their car with a car trailer/dolly from U-Haul? Can
you hook it up with one that just gets the front wheels off the ground or do you
have to use the trailer where the whole car sits on it?
Thanks for the help.
- -Erik
1991 3,800 pound paperweight :)
- ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Date: Sat, 11
May 2002 21:28:17 -0400
>All true. Top off the fluid to the correct level and if the car cannot
move
>by itself your only option is to tow it. Do not bother changing the
filter
>now, this won't revive
it.
>
>Philip
>
>At 15:42 5/11/2002, fastmax
wrote:
>>It's an automatic transmission so there are no synchros or
flywheel --- it
>>has a flex plate
>>and a torque
converter.
>>
>>As to problems it sound like the fluid is
cooked --- usually not a good
>>sign. It should
>>be a clear
red color and smell like oil, if it has a burnt smell it may be
>>the
clutch
>>pack went out. Make sure the fluin level is correct, the trans
will not
>>work if the fluid
>>gets too low --- if it's burnt
and brown replace it. I'd just top it off
>>and see if you
regain
>>function, if you do drain it, change the filter and try to get
home so a
>>professional can
>>take a look at
it.
>>
>> Jim
Berry
>>===========================================================
>>
>>-----
Original Message -----
>>From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
>> >
So I guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this
>> tranny into the ground. My friend who knows a little
about
>>cars said it might be the flywheel??? I am about 200
miles from any big
>>city. And the car is about 40 miles away
from where I'm at
>>now in a really small city.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1
#838
***************************************