Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Sunday, May 12 2002     Volume 01 : Number 838
 
 
 

----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:20:26 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
 
> Ok, now I am confused.  Every car that I have ever seen has the exhaust
> mounted to rubber bushings, flexible bands and what not.  As I understand
> it, a flex section is there to aid these flexible mounts so that the
mounts
> are not over stressed.  Having a flex section anywhere before the first
> exhaust mount should accomplish this.
 
The flex sections are there to minimize stress to the flanges in between the
parts. There is thermal expansion and the flanges and mounts are under
stress. A flex section is able to minimize this stress. Also the longer the
piping is the more internal vibration due to the exhaust pulses are caused.
If any resonator chamber has been removing this is very noticeable by the
annoying droning (Borla without baffles). These pulses again causes stress
to the whole system and the hangers just eliminate the transfer from the
exhaust to the chassis.
 
I installed a flex section in the downpipe before the y. This to decouple
the turbos. Another flex part is after the y to decouple the rear turbo from
the rest of the exhaust. For the other exhaust parts I see no need for more
flex sections.
 
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:07:23 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Mitsu EVO Lancer video
 
This is a long (4.5 min) video.
Pretty spectacular, though.
Reminds me of rallying.
 
http://www.opentracking.com/track_video.htm
 
Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:21:56 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Here's a warranty
 
Got this spam in my e-mail.
If any of you are looking for an aftermarket warranty, give it a go.
Let us know what they say about our TT cars.
 
(sorry if I sent this already. I thought I did, but couldn't find any evidence that it went)
 
Rich/slow old poop
_____________________________
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 00:23:24 -0400
From: trynow@first.topdrawerbiz.com
To: tvaumfnagn@topdrawerbiz.com
Reply-To: trynow@first.topdrawerbiz.com
Subject: ADV: Extended Auto Warranty -- even older cars...                                                   yhbvs
X-RCPT-TO: <joel@cedar-rapids.net>
 
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Extend your existing Warranty.
       
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 http://211.78.96.242/auto/warranty.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:06:39 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: OT: Re: Team3S: Here's a warranty
 
These spammers do not even have a permanent website. I received a similar
email to a different URL but the same-looking site. Some moron guy called
me back the next day. He went like:
 
- - Hi, I am calling about your Dodge. <which one, I have three>
 
- - So you have a low-mileage car. Have you been taking good care of it? <yeah>
 
- - Let me forward your file to the correct department. They will call you
back. <why the hell did you call me>
 
I am still waiting for them to call me back.
 
Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:15:41 -0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch release
 
You are correct in your understanding.  Check the clutch master cylinder
and see how much fluid is in there.  It's the tiny cylinder with a white
cap in the upperrightmost corner of the engine bay.  If this is low, you
may have a leak in the system.  Check under the carpeting by the clutch
pedal to see if the master cylinder is leaking.  The slave cylinder or
the hose that attaches between the hardline from the MC and the SC may
also be leaking.  To check these, you'll have to remove the airbox, BPV,
and possibly the battery.  Have someone depress the clutch pedal and
check if there's fluid coming out anywhere.
 
Another possibility is that you have air in your line.  Check
www.stealth316.com for bleeding procedures. 
 
Joe
91 RT/TT black
 
Alex Pedenko wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
>     My understanding has always been that when the clutch pedal is fully
> depressed, the clutch is completely disengaged. Assuming that's correct, who
> can explain this - with the clutch all the way to the floor, i try to put
> the car into gear (this is most evident with reverse, for some reason) and
> it starts rolling in the respective direction?! Does that mean that the
> clutch isn't disengaging completely? If so, who's fault is it - is it a
> faulty clutch or was it installed improperly. In either case, that means
> that the clutch has been beating on my synchros, which as we all know aren't
> too good to begin with... fun...
>
> I'll skip the rant on the incompetency of mitsu mechanics, suffice it to
> say - stay clear of satan!
>
> Alex
>
> '95 VR4
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:38:23 -0700
From: "Hans Hortin" <hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S: dodge Stealth
 
hello
 
i found the problem whit the rpm.
a broken thermostat.
now is everything ok.
the engine wont work properly. it feels like one or two "kolvar" in the cylinder get stuck. engine problems?
the car has gone 11000 miles.

had this problem before but it started to go well.
the engine come sometimes. when it goes wrong it has 10 hp.
i want 222 hp.
 
hans
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:00:34 +0200
From: Jim Matthews <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Team3S: First track day experience!
 
This morning I participated in my first track event, held at an
airfield near the town of Elvington in North Yorkshire, England
(http://www.motorsport-events.co.uk/elvington.htm).  The course was
marked out with cones and was approximately 2 miles in length.  It was
a beautiful, cool day and there were only eight cars in attendance.  It
was non-competitive and an "open pit" policy allowed drivers to enter
and exit the track at any time.  It cost $120 for six hours of track
time (10am - 5pm with an hour off for lunch) plus $15 for helmet rental
and $32 for 30 minutes of one-on-one instruction.  In short, absolutely
perfect for a first timer!
 
After a brief meeting to discuss rules, flags, etc., we took four slow
laps to learn the track.  It consisted of (sorry, I don't know all of
the right terminology!) a long straight, fast weave to the right, tight
chicane (hard right-left-right, long sweeping right, shorter straight,
tight left-right-right-left and a deceiving pair of rights leading back
into the long straight.
 
Cars were staggared at the start and I began third behind two Porsche
928S4s (one had slicks and the other was REALLY loud) and ahead of a
Mitsu Lancer Evo VI and a few race-prepared vehicles (an old TVR, a
little Carterham Seven and some kind of MR-2 looking thing with a big
wing).  Unfortunately, I wore one of my front Porterfield R4S pads down
to the backing plate and had to call it a day early (and limp home),
but here are a few observations:
 
1) Handling is nice and neutral (Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 all seasons,
stock suspension with ECS on Sport).  It tends to understeer slightly
under throttle and oversteer when you lift or brake.  Four wheel drifts
are easy and a lot of fun (except when I drifted right through a line
of cones and off the track!).
 
2) These cars are FAST!  I pulled past the Porsches on the straights
without too much trouble.  The AVC-R was set to 1.00.
 
3) The brakes suck.  At one point, I was running down the MR-2 looking
car and found myself with the brakes to the floor, ABS pulsing
wondering if I was going to slow down in time to avoid rear-ending it
and making the turn.  After that experience, I would accelerate up to
about 90 on the straights and then coast up to the turn.  This took a
lot of fun out of it; if you're considering a track day, invest in
better brakes.

There will be another event in two weeks.  If I can get some new pads
in time, I'll be there!
 
- - --
Jim Matthews - Yorkshire, England
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
http://www.the-matthews.com
 
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:21:43 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
 
It sounds like PowerHaus II would offer different gearing for the
transmission, which could be useful.
It also sounds like they are not planning to make any other
changes/improvements.  I wonder, since they are digging into it anyway, if
they could improve the synchronizer efficiency in a real way, like Metric
Mechanic does for BMW Getrags and for awhile had promised, but failed, to do
for us?
 
Would their gears be stronger in any way, I'm not a metallurgist but maybe
higher nickel/softer to make them less prone to breakage when shock loaded?
I haven't broken any gears myself but I think a few others have.  Shelling
out $7-8000 for a trans with different ratios, that will need a re-do for
synchros ANYway in a couple years, gets costly.  Either BETTER
synchronizers, or easy parts commonality with CURRENT synchronizers would be
OK.  Hopefully they can make some other improvements too for that sort of
money...
...someday, maybe we'll need larger diameter input shafts (just dreaming
about snapping that twig-size shaft, I think one person has already)
 
Jack T.
Who just got a Kormex rebuilt 6 speed for <$2000...
- ---------------------------------------------
> Dear Friends-
> I was referred to this Web Site by Matt at Dynamic Racing.
> My company, PowerHaus II, is the leading company in the world regarding
> variety and quantity of special gear ratios for Porsche gearboxes.  Cars
> with our gears have won in class at the 12 Hours of Sebring, 24 Hours of
> Daytona, Petit LeMans, numerous Club and Historic events, and have seen
top
> finishes at the 24 Hours of LeMans in the Courage Porsches, with one car
> being driven by Mario and Michael Andretti.
> We also have made and are making race and performance ratios for BMW and
> Subaru WRX cars, and may shortly being going into Nissan gears.
> I have a highly developed 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo, which I converted to
the
> six speed gearbox when it became available, and have considered making a
> close ratio gear stack for it.  After talking with Matt, who was excited
to
> hear about this,  I thought it would be good to get some feedback from
other
> owners.
> I have analyzed the gearing for the six speed, where I will put my main
> focus, and there is room for vast improvement. Correct gearing would make
> these cars MUCH faster and a lot more enjoyable to drive.
> A proper gearbox will cost between $ 7000 and $ 8000, depending on how the
> final gear stack comes out.
> For quarter mile, quick street use, roadracing and top speed runs,
everyone
> will be able to benefit big-time from what we can build.
> Please respond to me if you could be serious about such a gearbox.
> Chris Fisher   President, PowerHaus II
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:33:18 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake Upgrade, 14 inch
 
Here is an ad from Brembo USA I got, offers a free extra set of brakepads
for brake system order.  I didn't get the free pads :(
These are the brakes I got.  They are $3295, and available with red, black
or silver "F50" calipers.  I got them a bit cheaper through MVP Motorsports.
These calipers have 4 pistons (2x40 and 2x44mm) and use the same pads as the
Brembo "F40" calipers, that Stillen's Brembo kit comes with.  They worked
great at Road America, and look really cool!  Yes they are crossdrilled
(alot) and though I'm not a big fan of crossdrilling, I was willing to try
them with these 14" brakes hoping that if they DIDN'T give trouble/cracking
then I can enjoy a little rotational weight savings too (have my cake AND
eat it)...so far so good.
Jack T.
- -----------------------
"Buy a Gran Turismo Brake System and Get a Free Replacement Axle Set of
Brake Pads! Contact Brembo today at 1-800-325-3994 or sales@brembo.com to
take advantage of this offer before it expires on May 31, 2002. To redeem
this offer offline please mention the promotional code "053102" to the
Brembo customer service representative.
Gran Turismo, is comprised of both 1 or 2-piece vented rotors that are 12 to
14 inch cross-drilled and/or slotted. In the 2-piece system, billet aluminum
hats are application specific and have been individually machined to
engineering specifications. The marriage of these pieces create a "floating
disc" which improves heat related stress, brake performance and pedal feel.
The Gran Turismo brake system also comes with your choice of black, red or
silver calipers."
- -----------------------
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:48:31 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Team3S: Emergency.  Tranny has lost gears.
 
Let me describe what happened and I just want to know if someone can tell me if they think the whole tranny went out or if it is fixxable.  While driving on a road trip last night I was driving along at like 65 up and down a mountain pass and a couple of times the car just dropped into a real low gear (it's a 91 SOHC Stealth with Auto trans.) and it would stay there for like 20 seconds and then it hit neutral and then found the right gear again and was ok for another 100 miles.  Then it started happening more often and eventually could not get from 3rd to 4th.  I noticed when I parked it was smoking a little from the passengers side.  I tried checking the tranny fluid but couldn't really get a good reading.  I noticed the fluid was dirty brown.(I've owned the car for 5 months and have never had any tranny work done and possibly the girl that i bought it from didn't either.)  So I kept driving and was an hour away from my destination so I was going like 45 miles an hour at ab!
 out 3500 rpm.  Well it just got worse from there and soon lost 3rd gear then second and when we finally pulled off the road I could get it to start up but it would not get in gear at all, not even reverse. 
 
So I guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this tranny into the ground.  My friend who knows a little about cars said it might be the flywheel???  I am about 200 miles from any big city.  And the car is about 40 miles away from where I'm at now in a really small city.
 
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I have to get this resolved by monday.
 
Thanks.
- -Erik
91 Stealth Base
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 12:42:36 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency.  Tranny has lost gears.
 
It's an automatic transmission so there are no synchros or flywheel --- it has a flex plate
and a torque converter.
 
As to problems it sound like the fluid is cooked --- usually not a good sign. It should
be a clear red color and smell like oil, if it has a burnt smell it may be the clutch
pack went out. Make sure the fluin level is correct, the trans will not work if the fluid
gets too low --- if it's burnt and brown replace it. I'd just top it off and see if you regain
function, if you do drain it, change the filter and try to get home so a professional can
take a look at it.
 
        Jim Berry
===========================================================
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 11:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Emergency. Tranny has lost gears.

> Let me describe what happened and I just want to know if someone can tell me if they think the whole tranny went out or if it is
fixxable.  While driving on a road trip last night I was driving along at like 65 up and down a mountain pass and a couple of times
the car just dropped into a real low gear (it's a 91 SOHC Stealth with Auto trans.) and it would stay there for like 20 seconds and
then it hit neutral and then found the right gear again and was ok for another 100 miles.  Then it started happening more often and
eventually could not get from 3rd to 4th.  I noticed when I parked it was smoking a little from the passengers side.  I tried
checking the tranny fluid but couldn't really get a good reading.  I noticed the fluid was dirty brown.(I've owned the car for 5
months and have never had any tranny work done and possibly the girl that i bought it from didn't either.)  So I kept driving and
was an hour away from my destination so I was going like 45 miles an hour at ab!
>  out 3500 rpm.  Well it just got worse from there and soon lost 3rd gear then second and when we finally pulled off the road I
could get it to start up but it would not get in gear at all, not even reverse.
>
> So I guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this tranny into the ground.  My friend who knows a little about
cars said it might be the flywheel???  I am about 200 miles from any big city.  And the car is about 40 miles away from where I'm at
now in a really small city.
>
> Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I have to get this resolved by monday.
>
> Thanks.
> -Erik
> 91 Stealth Base
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 14:58:14 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: First track day experience!
 
Welcome to the road racing fraternity.
Now that you've been bitten by the bug, you will become committed. In more ways than one.
 
>It cost $120 for six hours of track
>time (10am - 5pm with an hour off for lunch) plus $15 for helmet rental
>and $32 for 30 minutes of one-on-one instruction.  In short, absolutely
>perfect for a first timer!
 
Good price!
 
>Unfortunately, I wore one of my front Porterfield R4S pads down
>to the backing plate and had to call it a day early (and limp home),
 
One of the first things to learn is to use race pads. Put them in trackside and go back to street pads the next day. Fortunately, it's easy to change pads on our cars. Or you might try Carbotech Panther Plus pads, which seem to be the ONLY race pads you can use on the street. Contact Andie Lin at Carbotech ( "Andie W. Lin" <andiewlin@yahoo.com> )to see if he can get you a set in time.
>
>1) Handling is nice and neutral (Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 all seasons,
>stock suspension with ECS on Sport).
 
Isn't that great? Having a neutral car is best. Pump them tires up to about 40/38 cold.

 It tends to understeer slightly
>under throttle and oversteer when you lift or brake.
 
You can get rid of the oversteer by always braking in a straight line and never lifting in turns.
 
>3) The brakes suck.  At one point, I was running down the MR-2 looking
>car and found myself with the brakes to the floor, ABS pulsing
>wondering if I was going to slow down in time to avoid rear-ending it
>and making the turn. 
 
That was boiled brake fluid. Change to Motul 600. When the brake pedal goes to the floor, you cooked the fluid. If you have a firm pedal but the car won't stop, that's faded pads. If you can't find Motul in Yurp, try ATE Super Blue, a German fluid.
 
>
>There will be another event in two weeks.  If I can get some new pads
>in time, I'll be there!
 
Check the 3S web site for advice on upgrading your brakes. Take off the backing plates so cool air can get in there. One of the cheapest things to do is run air ducts to cool things down. See http://www.bazillionbooks.com/hparknov2000.htm for a nice, cheap, easy way to run brake scoops and ducts.
>
Keep those Yurpean race reports coming!
 
Rich/slow old poop>
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:28:17 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency.  Tranny has lost gears.
 
All true. Top off the fluid to the correct level and if the car cannot move
by itself your only option is to tow it. Do not bother changing the filter
now, this won't revive it.
 
Philip
 
At 15:42 5/11/2002, fastmax wrote:
>It's an automatic transmission so there are no synchros or flywheel --- it
>has a flex plate
>and a torque converter.
>
>As to problems it sound like the fluid is cooked --- usually not a good
>sign. It should
>be a clear red color and smell like oil, if it has a burnt smell it may be
>the clutch
>pack went out. Make sure the fluin level is correct, the trans will not
>work if the fluid
>gets too low --- if it's burnt and brown replace it. I'd just top it off
>and see if you regain
>function, if you do drain it, change the filter and try to get home so a
>professional can
>take a look at it.
>
>         Jim Berry
>===========================================================
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
> > So I guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this
> tranny into the ground.  My friend who knows a little about
>cars said it might be the flywheel???  I am about 200 miles from any big
>city.  And the car is about 40 miles away from where I'm at
>now in a really small city.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 20:27:41 -0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: boost gauge light
 
Where can I get power for the light in my boost gauge? Its mounted in a
pillar pod. I don't want to take any dash apart, so easy access would be
prefered. Mike S 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:27:42 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
 
I'm trying to install a set of Eibach springs on a friend's car and am
having a terrible time trying to get the rear shocks off the lower mount on
the wheel hub.  There's a rubber bushing inside the end of the shock, and it
appears to be stuck nice and good to both metal surfaces.  Anyone have any
tricks on how to get this thing apart?  I'm sure the other side is the same
way.  It is on a '91 RT/TT, so those parts have been together a good long
time.
 
I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no avail.  WD40'd the heck
out of both of them to see if it would help.  So far no luck.
 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:40:08 -0600
From: "norm kami" <normross@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Team3S: my toy
 
I need HELP  big time my 91 R/T  dose not run right  when i give gas
hazesatats all the time HELP NORM

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 20:41:07 -0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: plug setting
 
Need sugestion on what plug gap I should use. I've already regap once now.
I have a new motor -gutted pre cats-test pipe-K/N filter and restrictor ring
removed from boost valve {1 gen car}. With a autometer boost gauge I'am
running 12psi. I have the plugs set at .35 now and I still get spark blow
out. Also I'am using bosch plugs. Should I change plugs to ngk and go with
.30 or .32 gap setting? Mike S 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:44:45 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: my toy
 
> I need HELP  big time my 91 R/T  dose not run right  when i give gas
> hazesatats all the time HELP NORM
 
Did you change anything recently?
 
Does it run okay if you accelerate slowly?  Then run bad when you push the
gas further, putting more load on the engine?
 
Without knowing more, I'd look at the spark plug wires, spark plugs, fuel
filter, air filter?
 
Is the car stock or modified?  If modified, what all is on it?
 
Help us help you, give us some more info to go on.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 22:52:52 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plug setting
 
> Need sugestion on what plug gap I should use. I've already regap once now.
> I have a new motor -gutted pre cats-test pipe-K/N filter and restrictor
ring
> removed from boost valve {1 gen car}. With a autometer boost gauge I'am
> running 12psi. I have the plugs set at .35 now and I still get spark blow
> out. Also I'am using bosch plugs. Should I change plugs to ngk and go with
> .30 or .32 gap setting? Mike S 92 rt tt
 
You shouldn't be getting spark blowout at only 12 psi.  How did you
determine that spark blowout is the problem?
 
I'm assuming that you meant .035" for a gap instead of .35.  ;-)
 
If it really is spark blowout, consider replacing your coils and power
transistor pack with new factory parts (or at a minimum go through the
testing procedure in the service manual for the ignition components and make
sure everything is within spec).
 
Which Bosch plugs?
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:10:47 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost gauge light
 
Pry out the dimmer switch. I think it is the white wire that you need to use.
 
Philip
 
At 22:27 5/11/2002, Mike & Cathy wrote:
>Where can I get power for the light in my boost gauge? Its mounted in a
>pillar pod. I don't want to take any dash apart, so easy access would be
>prefered. Mike S 92 rt tt

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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 00:23:01 -0400
From: "Chris McFarland" <cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
 
A small gear puller worked like a charm for me.
 
Chris McFarland
93 Stealth R/T TT
 
- -----Original Message-----
I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no avail.  WD40'd the heck
out of both of them to see if it would help.  So far no luck.
 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:28:39 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
 
That's apparently a common problem --- mine required a pry bar [ big ]others
have resorted to heat. Trouble is, if you're trying to reuse the shocks your
options are limited. There should be a metal bushing inside the rubber
isolation bushing and it's rusted to the shock mounting bolt, force and  a
good penetrating oil --- maybe some heat on the mounting bolt but not
enough to melt the rubber ?!?!?!?
 
        Jim Berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?

> I'm trying to install a set of Eibach springs on a friend's car and am
> having a terrible time trying to get the rear shocks off the lower mount on
> the wheel hub.  There's a rubber bushing inside the end of the shock, and it
> appears to be stuck nice and good to both metal surfaces.  Anyone have any
> tricks on how to get this thing apart?  I'm sure the other side is the same
> way.  It is on a '91 RT/TT, so those parts have been together a good long
> time.
>
> I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no avail.  WD40'd the heck
> out of both of them to see if it would help.  So far no luck.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 21:29:56 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?
 
You run the risk of pulling the rubber bushing off of the metal sleeve.

        Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris McFarland" <cm1994@qx.net>
To: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>; "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tricks to get rear shocks off?

> A small gear puller worked like a charm for me.
>
> Chris McFarland
> 93 Stealth R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I've tried a big prybar to try to pop it off to no avail.  WD40'd the heck
> out of both of them to see if it would help.  So far no luck.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated....
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 01:14:38 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency.  Tranny has lost gears.
 
At this point I think there is a definite mechanical problem with it.  Fluid is at a good level and it still won't find any gears including reverse.  It will have to be towed I guess.  Towing question now... Has anyone ever towed their car with a car trailer/dolly from U-Haul?  Can you hook it up with one that just gets the front wheels off the ground or do you have to use the trailer where the whole car sits on it?
 
Thanks for the help.
 
- -Erik
1991 3,800 pound paperweight :)
 
- ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Date:  Sat, 11 May 2002 21:28:17 -0400
 
>All true. Top off the fluid to the correct level and if the car cannot move
>by itself your only option is to tow it. Do not bother changing the filter
>now, this won't revive it.
>
>Philip
>
>At 15:42 5/11/2002, fastmax wrote:
>>It's an automatic transmission so there are no synchros or flywheel --- it
>>has a flex plate
>>and a torque converter.
>>
>>As to problems it sound like the fluid is cooked --- usually not a good
>>sign. It should
>>be a clear red color and smell like oil, if it has a burnt smell it may be
>>the clutch
>>pack went out. Make sure the fluin level is correct, the trans will not
>>work if the fluid
>>gets too low --- if it's burnt and brown replace it. I'd just top it off
>>and see if you regain
>>function, if you do drain it, change the filter and try to get home so a
>>professional can
>>take a look at it.
>>
>>         Jim Berry
>>===========================================================
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
>> > So I guess the question is: is it the syncros or have I just ran this
>> tranny into the ground.  My friend who knows a little about
>>cars said it might be the flywheel???  I am about 200 miles from any big
>>city.  And the car is about 40 miles away from where I'm at
>>now in a really small city.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #838
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