Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, May 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
837
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 10 May 2002 08:40:55 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Adventures in braking (+cryo rotor s
info)
For us Stateside folks the Movit Kit is priced with in $100 of
the
Stillen/AP Racing Kit just as food for thought. As for rear brake
upgrades
MoVit makes a kit for our cars and of course Brad Beddell (sp)
could
probably create a kit for us also.....
Hey Rich, you still have
not looked to see where that third piece of the
rotor went?
Russ
F
CT
93 VR-4 She's down but not out
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 6:12 PM
> To:
Team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Adventures in braking (+cryo
> rotors
info)
>
> Well, this sounds like time for a real good brake kit ! I
think only the
> Movit with the large rotors will do it ... pricey but
probably the much
> better solution as cryo treated stock rotors :-( Where
they crossdrilled ?
> I
> thought you are running the Porsche
calipers, do you ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> > Let's
be accurate here. It exploded in a ball of fire. I broke the
>
sucker
> into three pieces. Two of the pieces left the car and almost set
the grass
> on fire at Turn 1. The third piece is still clamped in the
caliper (I
> think). What's worse, I wasn't doin' nuttin' outrageous -- no
bouncing off
> the ABS or standing on the brakes. Everything was...normal.
Brakes were
> holding up fine, a stab before 1 revealed that brakes were
present and
> ready
> for use, and no fade or pedal loss was
apparent at the time. The rotor
> just
> up and broke
itself.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:49:36
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking
At 08:40 10.05.2002 -0400, Furman,
Russell wrote:
>For us Stateside folks the Movit Kit is priced with in
$100 of the
>Stillen/AP Racing Kit just as food for thought. As for
rear brake upgrades
>MoVit makes a kit for our cars and of course Brad
Beddell (sp) could
>probably create a kit for us also.....
Yes, AP
rotors are on my wishlist too. I will see what my new japanese say
about the
Alcon kits available there.
Regarding the rear, after I installed Bremsas
(1-piece, slotted,
crossdrilled) with Pagid Orange pads the braking
behaviour improved
significantly. I can brake later and the car feels more
stable than before !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:17:27
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
check the section
on ECS codes - bottom left pin is output for EFI codes.
The first part of
this old text dealt with ECS codes, the bottom part dealt
with
EFI.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 4:24 PM
> To:
Willis, Charles E.; 'moreton'; Team3s
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie -
Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
>
> Page 17-25 of the CD manual
shows the connector as two columns of pins ---
> the top right pin is
ground and the bottom left pin is the port output.
> The pin
> above
the empty slots is not defined for use with a meter --- anybody have
>
better information ??????????????
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:22:05
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking
Roger, do you have a lead on the AP kit
with the larger rotors (355MM)
instead of the Stillen Package that has 343mm
rotors?
If so share with the list please, I really would like to make
3K get me as
much of a braking upgrade as possible.
Russ
F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 8:50 AM
>
To:
Team3s@team3s.com> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking
>
> At 08:40 10.05.2002 -0400,
Furman, Russell wrote:
> >For us Stateside folks the Movit Kit is
priced with in $100 of the
> >Stillen/AP Racing Kit just as food for
thought. As for rear brake
> upgrades
> >MoVit makes a kit
for our cars and of course Brad Beddell (sp) could
> >probably create a
kit for us also.....
>
> Yes, AP rotors are on my wishlist too. I
will see what my new japanese say
>
> about the Alcon kits
available there.
>
> Regarding the rear, after I installed Bremsas
(1-piece, slotted,
> crossdrilled) with Pagid Orange pads the braking
behaviour improved
> significantly. I can brake later and the car feels
more stable than before
> !
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:23:06
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dodge Stealth ES
spark coils? fuel filter?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Hans Hortin
[SMTP:hanshortin@37.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 6:41 AM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject:
Team3S: Dodge Stealth ES
>
> Hello
>
> I have a
problem that i cant solve.
>
> The car vill not go
properly.
>
> 1. Electic is ok. Have made a computercheck.
>
2. New sparkplugs.
> 3. New Sparkwires. (thanks for the no4 Jeff
Lucius).
> 4. All injectors works at 700 rpm.
>
> My problem
is that is car on higher rpm goes on only 4-5 cyl.
> Could the injectors
be the problem?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 13:39:26
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
What is the reasoning for installing a
flex section *after* the main cat?
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex
Section
<snip> a flex section. If not, then I will have one
installed just
after the catalytic converter.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:07:58
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do you all measure your fuel pressure?
First, check with
a different dealer about these parts. The 1991 service
manual shows a "hose
adapter" (MD998742) to use with a gauge. Later Mitsu
manuals show this one
plus an different "hose adapter" (MD998709) that looks
like it replaces the
banjo bolt on the fuel filter. I swear I have seen a
Mitsu tool in one of
the manuals that fits between the FPR and the rear fuel
rail, but I can't
seem to find that at the moment. The hose adapters look like
they install
near the fuel filter. I think the DSM rails have the same ends on
them so
maybe a DSM tool might be available also.
My web page below shows how to
install a FP sensor just after the fuel filter.
The ideal place would be at
the FPR. I am still waiting on the SpoolinUp adj.
FPR that has a 1/8" NPT
fitting for a sensor. The electrical Autometer sensor
I used has a 1/8" NPT
fitting.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fp_install.htmhttp://www.stealth316.com/2-apillar.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "RJM" <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 5:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: How do you all measure your
fuel pressure?
- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage
attachment
Date: Tue, 07
May 2002 20:23:06 -0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Organization:
Southwestern Bell Internet Services
To: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
CC:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stReferences:
<
Pine.BSF.4.10.10205071823380.97363-100000@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
The
dealer doesn't have that part nor a cross reference and told me it
was not
available any longer. I figured the fuel rail can't be that
much
different for all of the 3000gt dual overhead cam engines, can it?
Do you all
take your cars to the dealer to check the fuel
pressure? Is there a name for
this type of special
connector? Should I cut the high pressure hose and
insert
my
own attachment to attach the guage? Thanks.
Bob
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:27:50
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking
No, I don't have connection to an AP
kit manufacturer but a possible
solution to get the Alcon stuff but I will
shop around for more.
For the stock suspension parts I'd not go further
than 330mm anyways.
Roger
93'3000GT
www.rtec.chAt 09:22 10.05.2002 -0400,
Furman, Russell wrote:
>Roger, do you have a lead on the AP kit with the
larger rotors (355MM)
>instead of the Stillen Package that has 343mm
rotors?
> If so share with the list please, I really would
like to make 3K get me as
>much of a braking upgrade as
possible.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:29:13
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
> What is the reasoning for
installing a flex section *after* the main cat?
The reason I would have
it installed there is I don't want the muffler shop
to cut my down
pipe. I suppose I could have them install it between the
down pipe and
cat also. I really didn't analize it that deep.
Doug
92 Stealth
RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:38:52
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
I can add this, when you hit a bump
and your car gets jolted around
think of the vibration on your solid mounted
exhaust pieces. No flex
section is a bad idea...you can get real good ones
made of some nice
stuff like the ones on my downpipe (go see
3sxperformance.com for a
pic under exhaust) I would guess that those who have
no section and
have no problem I would say kudos to you but personally i
would have
one between the DP and the main cat. It just makes common sense to
do
this given the motor movement and vibrations. The flex sections I
get
are about 45.00 a piece if anyone is interested in a "GOOD"
flex
section. I will say if I had to choose between the stock flex
and
nothing I would take nothing....but between the ones I get
and
anything else...gimme the juice.
bobk.
9399RT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:38:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking
Had a wonderful talk with Todd Baer
last night..someone Ive gotten to know
well over the last year.
Anyone
willing to give up a corner suspension kit up front for
development?
I
need -5- orders to get his attention...the connection helps (We
talk
supras..he used to have one like mine..and he sponsors the Firebird
as
well).
The T/A has an Alcon 13.5" disk on it, and it weighs the
same as a VR4
right now..so thats the kit im shooting for.
On Fri, 10
May 2002, Roger Gerl wrote:
> No, I don't have connection to an AP kit
manufacturer but a possible
> solution to get the Alcon stuff but I will
shop around for more.
>
> For the stock suspension parts I'd not go
further than 330mm anyways.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> At 09:22
10.05.2002 -0400, Furman, Russell wrote:
> >Roger, do you have a lead
on the AP kit with the larger rotors (355MM)
> >instead of the Stillen
Package that has 343mm rotors?
> > If so share with the
list please, I really would like to make 3K get me as
> >much of a
braking upgrade as possible.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:53:06
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Verdict on exploding rotor
As you may recall, I suffered an
exploding rotor on my 3000GT VR4 Wednesday at Blackhawk Farms. It broke into
four pieces at the end of the front straight (hub plus three rotor pieces), as I
was approaching the entry to Turn 1 at about 100 mph. I have Big Red Porsche
calipers with Porterfield cyrogenically treated rotors, Carbotech Panther Plus
pads, ss lines, Motul 600 fluid, air ducts, and water cooling to the brakes. The
brakes were working perfectly up until the very second the rotor exploded.
Here's the results of my recent researches into the mysterious exploding
rotor:
It was simply a matter of a too-thin rotor. Thickness on the rotor
is:
New: 1.185
Discard:
1.118
Mine: 0.991
Its partner in crime, on the other
side of the car, is showing deep, 3/4 in. long cracks, and would have been the
next to go.
When we turned the rotors last week, the shop said they were
getting close to discard depth, so we just trimmed off the sharp edge on the
outside, where the pads cut into the rotor, and did not turn the rotor. I took a
spare rotor along, figuring that if a rotor got too thin, it would warp. Alas,
it didn't warp, so I didn't replace it trackside, and Bang! It broke.
I
guess putting three track days on a marginal rotor was too much.
The lesson
here is: Don't let your rotors (stock or Porterfield) get below discard depth.
This may require taking a ruler along to the track. Also, look for cracks before
going out.
Other observations:
1. Carbotech pads must be a little
wider than others, because they did not cut into the rotor. They completely
cover the rotor, so there was no sharp edge on the outside.
2. Cryogenic
treating really works: Up until the bitter end, thin as it was, the rotor did
not warp. It's warped now, of course.
3. The four pieces of the broken
rotor do not show any cracking, surface or otherwise, except where it broke. Its
partner has deep cracks, but there are only a few of them (of course, that's all
it takes). It looks as if the other rotor would have broken the same way into
three or four pieces.
4. It apparently had nothing to do with water
injection. It was simply a too-thin rotor.
5. The missing piece of the
broken rotor was captured by the caliper. If it had not captured the piece,
there is an excellent chance the flying metal would have seriously damaged the
caliper. I have to rebuild them, because a seal is leaking.
6. I have interesting shiny gouges on the inside of the wheel
where the rotor pieces bounced around before escaping. No serious damage,
though.
7. I drove the car to the brake shop this morning.
Strangely enough, the brakes still worked on only three wheels. I probably could
not stand an emergency stop, but I managed to get through stop and go traffic
just fine. The last time I broke a rotor, I had no brakes.
8. All three
times that I broke rotors (two Powerslots, one Porterfield), it was on the right
front.
I took photos, and will put them on my website
later.
Rich/slow old poop
94 3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:13:05
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
First, after the DP, the exhaust is
not solidly mounted, at least not the
stock or ATR. To my recollection, all
components mount with some sort of
swivel fastener or rubber part of some
shape (bushing, band, etc.). Go under
the car and look.
Second, *if*
a custom cat-back exhaust would foolishly be solidly mounted to
the car
*frame/body* then only flexion in the frame/body (not movement of the
suspension) will cause flexion in the exhaust components anyway.
The
only good reason I can think of for a flex section is to handle the
difference in relative motion between the engine and the frame/body (such as
during normal engine torquing or if the engine mounts are worn). A flex
section *in* the DP (such as the stock DP has) would be useful for this
purpose. A flex section after the first connection of the exhaust to the
frame/body is pointless and unnecessary. Look at the top pic on my web page
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-atr1.htmThe
flex sections in the stock DP are located *before* the first mounting
point
of any part of the exhaust to the frame/body of the car. There are no
flex
sections in the stock exhaust after the DP. And there is no need for
any.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex
Section
I can add this, when you hit a bump and your car gets jolted
around
think of the vibration on your solid mounted exhaust pieces. No
flex
section is a bad idea...you can get real good ones made of some
nice
stuff like the ones on my downpipe (go see 3sxperformance.com for
a
pic under exhaust) I would guess that those who have no section and
have
no problem I would say kudos to you but personally i would have
one between
the DP and the main cat. It just makes common sense to do
this given the
motor movement and vibrations. The flex sections I get
are about 45.00 a
piece if anyone is interested in a "GOOD" flex
section. I will say if I had
to choose between the stock flex and
nothing I would take nothing....but
between the ones I get and
anything else...gimme the
juice.
bobk.
9399RT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:04:21
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Verdict on exploding rotor
Is it possible that the rotor
separated from the hat before breaking
into three pieces?
I recall
other people talking about hat/rotor separation long ago.
I use a set of
vernier calipers to check rotor thickness. The
calipers are not that
expensive at Home Depot. I don't have the other kind
of
calipers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:37:03
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
Jeff,
you are the man...this is
undisputed. The info on your site has saved
me hundreds $$$. I never said put
the flex in any place you
want..between the main cat and the DP is about the
only place I could
justify. My stock DP or frontpipe as it were has two
flex
sections...one between each bank and one big one before the
cat...I
have been under my car...the little one between the banks
is
pointless unless it was used for installation ease. I recall
several
posts of the stillen not fitting just right and required bending
and
grinding for a good fit. You are correct in that everything hangs
from
a rubber loop or clamp in some way or another but be it your
opinion and your
opinion only that drives your statement. I am not an
exhaust expert and don't
claim to be one but those who have helped in
the developement of my frontpipe
do know...and the flex section
between the DP and the main cat is good. For
and Aft of that it can
be solid...and by solid I mean the pipe itself..not to
the car.
Now you turbo boys are a little different...you have those
pre-cats
then the DP. If I had a turbo, I would want to reduce any
un-needed
or easily overted vibrations to my turbo's. The flex section
will
help in this.....if you had it solid...(I mean the pipe still)
then
any and all vibrations from the car will find its way to
the
manifolds right? So like the big Jack-in-the-box straw it will
swing
on the rubber mounts and apply vibrations to the solid mounts (now
I
am talking about the turbo's) so we can agree that we disagree
Jeff.
Give me the bendie straw.
enjoy the day.
bobk.
9399R/T
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
jlucius@stealth316.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:13:05
-0000
>First, after the DP, the exhaust is not solidly mounted, at
least
>not the
>stock or ATR. To my recollection, all components
mount with some
>sort of
>swivel fastener or rubber part of some
shape (bushing, band, etc.).
>Go under
>the car and
look.
>
>Second, *if* a custom cat-back exhaust would foolishly be
solidly
>mounted to
>the car *frame/body* then only flexion in the
frame/body (not
>movement of the
>suspension) will cause flexion
in the exhaust components anyway.
>
>The only good reason I can
think of for a flex section is to handle
>the
>difference in
relative motion between the engine and the frame/body
>(such as
>during normal engine torquing or if the engine mounts are worn). A
>flex
>section *in* the DP (such as the stock DP has) would be
useful for
>this
>purpose. A flex section after the first
connection of the exhaust to
>the
>frame/body is pointless and
unnecessary. Look at the top pic on my
>web page
>below.
>
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-atr1.htm
>
>The
flex sections in the stock DP are located *before* the first
>mounting
>point of any part of the exhaust to the frame/body of the car. There
>are no
>flex sections in the stock exhaust after the DP. And
there is no
>need for any.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
>To:
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 8:38 AM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex
Section
>
>I can add this, when you hit a bump and your car gets
jolted around
>think of the vibration on your solid mounted exhaust
pieces. No flex
>section is a bad idea...you can get real good ones made
of some nice
>stuff like the ones on my downpipe (go see
3sxperformance.com for a
>pic under exhaust) I would guess that those who
have no section and
>have no problem I would say kudos to you but
personally i would have
>one between the DP and the main cat. It just
makes common sense to do
>this given the motor movement and vibrations.
The flex sections I get
>are about 45.00 a piece if anyone is interested
in a "GOOD" flex
>section. I will say if I had to choose between the stock
flex and
>nothing I would take nothing....but between the ones I get
and
>anything else...gimme the
juice.
>
>bobk.
>9399RT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:52:49
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Help...Fast!
Man, my brother is gonna finish off my VR-4 by the
time I get back home this
summer. here's the new "problem" he just told me
about yesterday.
A while ago, car was making a knock sound, more of a
clack-clack-clack type
of sound. It wasn't that loud and when clutch was
pressed in, it would go
away. Most people said it was the throw out bearing.
Since I'm gonna replace
the clutch pretty soon, he continued driving it like
that. Now sound is much
much louder and won't go away. It shifted fine with
no problems all the way
home after it happened. Revving the engine only
makes it louder. Also, a
little fluid started leaking, not much. I saw video
on 3si with a sound clip
of the sound a bad input shaft bearing sounds like,
but my brother says it
sounds nothing like that. Instead of the grinding
noise, it more of a
clacking sound. Anybody know what this could be?
Did he blow my tranny
already or is it just a messed up bearing in there?
This sucks, those new
wheels i was gonna get from my parents will have to be
put on hold until I
fix this so for those of you who were interested I'll let
you know if I'm
still gonna sell them as soon as I can get an estimate of the
damage. My
brother already took pictures of them and are in the mail. I'll
scan them
and send them to those interested. Thanks.
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:55:13
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Baby needs a Tune up
OK,
Here goes 95 Dodge Stealth AWD
TT. I installed a full 3" mandrel bent exhaust including new Y pipe and cat,
Manual Boost controller, K&N air filter. 120,000Km
I bought the parts
to change the timing belts (Actually all the belts), Water pump and fuel filter.
(bought the car at 70,000Km don't think it has ever been done) I know this is a
painfull job but don't want to spend $6-8 Hundred Can when I can do it. Problem
has been taking the time.
Well, no longer my choice! Yesterday out of
the blue and in any gear at about 1/4 throttle it begins to miss and doesn't
give any more power untill I let off.
My Question is has my timing
slipped, fuel clogged, or something else?
I'ts off the road till I get a
weekend to takle it, just wanted suggestions on additional things to look at or
replace as I have it apart.
Thanks,
Ben Jones
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:58:57
-0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <
benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump and injectors
As I'm taking her apart (95 Stealth AWD
TT)
I'm considering replacing the stock fuel pump and injectors. I plan
to continue upgrading this car over time. Is there a combination that increases
flow and power but doesn't need computer tweaking. Can someone explain the
process and options.
Sincerely,
Ben Jones
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:38:09
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos?
I was just
wondering if there is a reason to upgrade the fuel system if
you're not
planning on upgrading the turbos...
What will it give without bigger
turbos?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 13:11:40
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
IMHO,
if you are at BPU or plan on going to BPU I would at least get a
Walborogh
255LPH pump, 450CC DSM injectors, and a SAFC.
This will prevent you from
going lean on long pulls through fourth or Fifth
and it will also allow you
to run a bit richer and help squelch knock a
little bit.
Russ
F
CT
93VR-4 She's down but not out.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Black, Dave (ICT) [SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 12:38 PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail);
'stealth@starnet.net'> Subject:
Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading
> turbos?
>
> I was just wondering if there is a reason to upgrade the fuel system
if
> you're not planning on upgrading the turbos...
>
> What
will it give without bigger turbos?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:14:33
-0700
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Ignition adjust
Hello
Now everything is working.
But when i gas
up and then slow down (enginebraking) it will go
bad. Rpm goes down whit "bom
bom bom" instead of slowly rrrrrrrr.
Hope you understand this
Swenglish.
Can the electrical ignition be
adjusted?
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:24:13
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
Something useful from the
"chat" list ;-)
- -----Original Message-----
From: sean
[mailto:sjohnson@exitech.com]
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 10:15 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject:
Official Transfer Case Recall!
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=78886&goto=newpost-
--------------------------
For those who don't have web access, here's
the text from 3si:
This e-mail is just to inform you that we just got a
call from Mitsubishi
Motors saying that they are going to do a Recall on the
transfer case of the
1992 through 1999 3000GT VR4's and the 1992 through
1996 Stealth R/T TT.
We do not have a hold of the Recall number, so you
won't be able to look it
up, but I will inform you as soon as I know.
I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for all of your help, and
to
let you know that we could not have done this without your help.
Thank you again,
Eduardo Aviles
PS\ Feel free to let the
members of 3si know about this.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:31:44
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Next Power upgrade?
I would like to make the next step in power
upgrade. I have only done a K&N
FIPK upgrade and the next indicated
upgrade is a cat-back change.
However, I am reluctant to remove the
muffler sound control as I want to
keep the features of the VR-4
intact.
Questions please:
1. If a get a Borla cat back, how can I
keep the muffler sound control? And
what do you think is the impact of
this?
2. Can I just skip the cat-back and install a boost controller?
What impact
would this have?
Thanks much,
edgar
'91 VR-4 --
70K miles
Pearl white
K & N FIPK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 13:17:30
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
My
current engine mods are:
Intake
Borla Exhaust
ATR DP
ATR hi-flow
cat
gutted pre-cats
Greddy BOV
Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar
DN
Y-pipe
boost gauge
A/F gauge
I currently have the following waiting
to be installed:
RC 550cc injectors
Supra hi-flow fuel pump
Apexi
SAFC
I'm just not sure if I'm going to upgrade the turbos and I was
wondering if
I *should* install (or potentially sell them) these items if I'm
unsure
about the turbos.
What effective gain will I have by
upgrading the fuel system and not doing
the turbos?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 12:12 PM
To:
Black, Dave (ICT); Team3s (E-mail);
'stealth@starnet.net'Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading
turbos ?
IMHO,
if you are at BPU or plan on going to BPU I would at least get a
Walborogh
255LPH pump, 450CC DSM injectors, and a SAFC.
This will prevent you from
going lean on long pulls through fourth or Fifth
and it will also allow you
to run a bit richer and help squelch knock a
little bit.
Russ
F
CT
93VR-4 She's down but not out.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Black, Dave (ICT) [SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 12:38 PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail);
'stealth@starnet.net'> Subject:
Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading
> turbos?
>
> I was just wondering if there is a reason to upgrade the fuel system
if
> you're not planning on upgrading the turbos...
>
> What
will it give without bigger turbos?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:25:23
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Air Intake Resonator
What is Hydrolocked?
The resonator is
only a sound effect mod. No performance gain, certainly none that can be
measured.
Cold air intake would help, and a number of people have done
this. No kit made specifically for our cars that I know of. Its not so
much the cold air, but reloacating to take advantage of ram air that helps
intake performance on the NA.
Route dryer duct, pep boys intake tubing,
or whatever into the front fender air chamber. You can run the tubing out just
under the radiator overflow tank. Another approach is to punch holes in the
fender just to the front of the airbox inlet. The holes need to allow air from
the bumper/fender air chamber into the air filter intake area. Then you could
also dam off the filter area from the engine bay, to get cool air under some
positive ramair condition.
My suggestion would be to convert to a
conical K&N, or facsimile. Mount just behind the front bumper side opening,
and run 4in hose to the MAS attachment. This might net you 5hp at speeds up to
70mph, and maybe 10hp at higher speeds. Noticeable, but nothing
dramatic.
If you are serious about extra HP performance,
consider NOS or supercharging.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Samuel Mercedes Jr.
[mailto:elrey@techcom.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 9:04 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Air Intake Resonator
I was wondering. I just took of my air
intake resonator on my 92' SL. I
really didnt notice much difference, or low
end gain. My question is am i
the only one how didnt notice a change or do
you have to do something else
in addition to that to make it work (i.e air
intake). I was just curious to
know if anyone has hydrolocked there engine
with a cold air intake that runs
straight to the bottom of the
engine.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:26:34
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
I
would sell the 550's and get some 450 DSM's have the DSM's cleaned and
flow
balanced and call it a day. Especially since you seem to be
leaning
towards staying with the stock turbos..... On the other hand if
your rear
turbo lets go, you will have the fuel system to adequately meet the
need of
15G turbos. Its just a matter of what you plan/expect to
do....
If I was in your shoes Dave I would put all those mods on tune it for
the
stockers and then put my pennies aside for a turbo upgrade, again I
am a
speed junkie, you strike me as more of an enthusiast not as an addict
;)
Russ F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Black, Dave (ICT) [SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002
2:18 PM
> To: Furman, Russell; Team3s (E-mail);
'stealth@starnet.net'> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading
> turbos
?
>
> My current engine mods are:
>
> Intake
>
Borla Exhaust
> ATR DP
> ATR hi-flow cat
> gutted
pre-cats
> Greddy BOV
> Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar
> DN
Y-pipe
> boost gauge
> A/F gauge
>
> I currently have
the following waiting to be installed:
>
> RC 550cc
injectors
> Supra hi-flow fuel pump
> Apexi SAFC
>
>
I'm just not sure if I'm going to upgrade the turbos and I was wondering
>
if
> I *should* install (or potentially sell them) these items if I'm
unsure
> about the turbos.
>
> What effective gain
will I have by upgrading the fuel system and not doing
> the
turbos?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 11:35:11
-0700
From: P N Sankarshanan <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Access to the
evaporator
Folks:
I'm
planning on trying a product that is supposed to alleviate
(I'm
not sure if it can eradicate)
the mildew/musty odor problem in my
AC
vents.
This product requires
me to foam up the entire evaporator unit and
let
the foam settle down before
pushing air through the
system.
I'd like directions to
access the evaporator.
Thanks
- -sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
Picard:
"There really is no substitute for holding the reins."
- --Picard, "The
Icarus Factor", Stardate
42
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:35:09
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
>
I would sell the 550's and get some 450 DSM's have the DSM's cleaned and
>
flow balanced and call it a day. Especially since you seem to be
leaning
> towards staying with the stock turbos..... On the other
hand if your rear
> turbo lets go, you will have the fuel system to
adequately meet the need
of
> 15G turbos.
Russ, How do you
calculate the needs for 15G ? At what boost for example ?
So why aren't 450cc
not enough for 13G or 15G at 17 psi ?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:41:33
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Next Power upgrade?
> 1. If a get a Borla cat back, how
can I keep the muffler sound control?
And
> what do you think is the
impact of this?
No.
Impact is noise and sound
> 2. Can I
just skip the cat-back and install a boost controller? What
impact
>
would this have?
Yes.
More boost (1 bar max) and better boost
control.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:47:23
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
>
I currently have the following waiting to be installed:
>
> RC 550cc
injectors
> Supra hi-flow fuel pump
> Apexi SAFC
>
> I'm
just not sure if I'm going to upgrade the turbos and I was
wondering
if
> I *should* install (or potentially sell them) these
items if I'm unsure
> about the turbos.
For sure larger injectors
are needed to provide enough fuel, eve nat 1 bar
of boost. The less an
injector is maxed out the better. Therefore the 550
are a good choice.
Increasing boost above 15psi will cause extreme discharge
temperature and
therefore high air temp that enters the chamber. This will
cause detonation
or preignition what ends in piston/rings killing knock.
better intercooling
or water injection will lower the temp and then the
additional fuel is
needed.
> What effective gain will I have by upgrading the fuel system
and not doing
> the turbos?
Depends on how healthy your engine
really is. As you don't have the ability
for knock logging you can't be safe
in upping boost unless you can go to a
dyno and tune it in until the timing
gets retarded.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:49:34
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
Opps
I am mentally deficient today I meant to say 13G's ..............
Sorry
Dave/List I gave bad info here especially with the looped nature of
our stock
fuel system.
As far as calculating fuel demands it was
explained to me for every 5 CFM
you go up at the same boost pressure, you
want to go up by 10-15CC's on the
injectors......
I.E. Stockers
rated 265
CFM@15PSI 13G's 350
CFM@15psi85CFM increase = 170CC increase in
recommended fuel injector size (530CC's)
Since this is not a commonly
available size go with 550's
If someone has better calculation method I
am all ears
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 2:35 PM
>
To: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system
if not upgrading
> turbos ?
>
> > I would sell the 550's
and get some 450 DSM's have the DSM's cleaned and
> > flow balanced and
call it a day. Especially since you seem to be
> leaning
>
> towards staying with the stock turbos..... On the other hand if
your
> rear
> > turbo lets go, you will have the fuel system to
adequately meet the need
> of
> > 15G turbos.
>
>
Russ, How do you calculate the needs for 15G ? At what boost for example
?
> So why aren't 450cc not enough for 13G or 15G at 17 psi ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:18:00
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos
?
Dave,
I have the same question since I have the same stuff at
home sitting around
except I already have the pump installed. I already
know I'm going with
13g's at some point.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 1:18 PM
To: 'Furman, Russell'; Team3s (E-mail);
'stealth@starnet.net'Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
>>I
currently have the following waiting to be installed:
>>RC 550cc
injectors
>>Supra hi-flow fuel pump
>>Apexi
SAFC
>>I'm just not sure if I'm going to upgrade the turbos and I
was wondering
if
>>I *should* install (or potentially sell them)
these items if I'm unsure
>>about the turbos.
>>What
effective gain will I have by upgrading the fuel system and not
doing
>>the turbos?
>>Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:21:31
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
I got this email today
from Chris Fisher, Pres of PowerHausII
Best, --Forrest
-
---------------------------
Dear Friends-
I was referred to this
Web Site by Matt at Dynamic Racing.
My company, PowerHaus II, is the
leading company in the world regarding
variety and quantity of special gear
ratios for Porsche gearboxes. Cars
with our gears have won in class at
the 12 Hours of Sebring, 24 Hours of
Daytona, Petit LeMans, numerous Club and
Historic events, and have seen top
finishes at the 24 Hours of LeMans in the
Courage Porsches, with one car
being driven by Mario and Michael
Andretti.
We also have made and are making race and performance ratios
for BMW and
Subaru WRX cars, and may shortly being going into Nissan
gears.
I have a highly developed 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo, which I
converted to the
six speed gearbox when it became available, and have
considered making a
close ratio gear stack for it. After talking with
Matt, who was excited to
hear about this, I thought it would be good to
get some feedback from other
owners.
I have analyzed the gearing for
the six speed, where I will put my main
focus, and there is room for vast
improvement. Correct gearing would make
these cars MUCH faster and a lot more
enjoyable to drive.
A proper gearbox will cost between $ 7000 and $ 8000,
depending on how the
final gear stack comes out.
For quarter mile,
quick street use, roadracing and top speed runs, everyone
will be able to
benefit big-time from what we can build.
Please respond to me if you
could be serious about such a gearbox.
Thank you
Chris
Fisher
President, PowerHaus II
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:29:54
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
Would this be
a complete tranny (housing etc..) Sounds like it may work
lengthen up
1-3 very slightly, shorten 4-6 slightly and call it a day......
Oh yeah how
about some harder syncros + gears while they are at it.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:32:22
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
The '91 is a bit iffy
too? Why would Mits leave out the 1st model year?
>From: "Gross,
Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
>To:
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
>Date: Fri, 10 May 2002
10:24:13 -0700
>
>Something useful from the "chat" list
;-)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: sean
[mailto:sjohnson@exitech.com]
>Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 10:15
AM
>To:
stealth@stls.verio.net>Subject:
Official Transfer Case
Recall!
>
>http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=78886&goto=newpost
>--------------------------
>
>For
those who don't have web access, here's the text from 3si:
>
>This
e-mail is just to inform you that we just got a call from
Mitsubishi
>Motors saying that they are going to do a Recall on the
transfer case of
>the
>
>1992 through 1999 3000GT VR4's and
the 1992 through 1996 Stealth R/T TT.
>We do not have a hold of the Recall
number, so you won't be able to look it
>up, but I will inform you as soon
as I know.
>
>I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for all
of your help, and to
>let you know that we could not have done this
without your help.
>
>Thank you again,
>
>Eduardo
Aviles
>
>PS\ Feel free to let the members of 3si know about
this.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:32:33
-0700
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition adjust
Jeg can forstor swenglish... but I prefer
Norwenglish!
How do your motor mounts look?
>From: "Hans
Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
>To:
team3s@team3s.com>Subject: Team3S:
Ignition adjust
>Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 10:14:33
-0700
>
>Hello
>
>Now everything is working.
>But
when i gas up and then slow down (enginebraking) it will go
>bad. Rpm goes
down whit "bom bom bom" instead of slowly rrrrrrrr.
>Hope you understand
this Swenglish.
>
>Can the electrical ignition be
adjusted?
>
>Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:35:52
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
I
have the 13G's, and have already ran a 3/8th line
for the fuel from the pump
to the filter but then it
goes back to the stock line on both ends. If I go
to a
bigger fuel pump then I would guess I would need to
change the lines
in the fuel pump itself and also from
the filter to the injectors. I have A6
line and ran it
long enough to do the job. The question is does
anyone
know how to upgrade the fuel lines to handle a bigger
pump in the
tank, would I have to pull all the
components of the pump and have new 3/8th
lines welded
in. What is the answer here.
Peter 92 TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:55:20
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel system if not upgrading turbos ?
Russ,
the turbos are NOT rated at a flow at a specific boost ... NO WAY !
Also we
have two turbos , don't forget that. Each compressor wheel does have
its
specific efficiency pattern called efficiency islands. The higher
the
efficiency the more boost can be built up at a specific air
flow.
Now to the math, an engine flows a specific amount of air at 15
psi. As an
example, at 1 bar of boost the air our engine needs is about
620cfm at
6500rpm. Now this is what is needed for injector calculation and
nothing
else.
You now just select the turbo that is able to deliver
the amount of air at
the rpm you wish the desired boost.
550cc
injectors are able to deliver around 450hp at 80% IDC
Due to the rich mixture
our engines like, the amount of air needed is around
620cfm at 6500 then. To
get these 450hp, you need two turbos capable of
310cfm each. It doesn't
matter at what pressure !!
If you have two turbos flowing max 250cfm each
(no worries about the boost
of course) the max flow is 500cfm. For this
cfm you will see only about 10
psi at 6500.
450cc injectors are
able to deliver around 380hp at 80% IDC
Due to the rich mixture our engines
like, the amount of air needed is around
510cfm at 6500 then. To get these
380hp, you need two turbos capable of
260cfm each. Again, it doesn't matter
at what pressure !!
It's obvious that this is is around the limit our
turbos can flow. Again,
the injectors and turbos are not related to each
other. There is an engine
in between that counts !
If a turbo can flow
350cfm each, the result is 700cfm. This means you can
run up to 19psi @
6500rpm (what is not like what we see with 13g). The 550cc
injectors are not
able to deliver enough fuel for the 700cfm (as they can
only for 620cfm at
80% IDC) and therefore larger injectors (620 to be right)
are needed to
fullfill the mixture needed.
In fact, you are right, 450cc are just what
fits the stock 9b. But nobody
talks about the high discharge temperatures the
9b will produce and
therefore even fuel must be dumped to cool the chamber or
any other cooling
methond must be choosen to prevent knock. Most run the
injectors above 80%
but I don't like this.
Hope this
helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
"Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 8:49 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Reason to upgrade fuel
system if not upgrading turbos ?
> Opps I am mentally deficient today
I meant to say 13G's ..............
> Sorry Dave/List I gave bad info here
especially with the looped nature of
> our stock fuel
system.
>
> As far as calculating fuel demands it was explained to
me for every 5 CFM
> you go up at the same boost pressure, you want to go
up by 10-15CC's on
the
> injectors......
>
> I.E.
Stockers rated 265
CFM@15PSI 13G's
350
CFM@15psi> 85CFM increase = 170CC
increase in recommended fuel injector size
(530CC's)
> Since this is
not a commonly available size go with 550's
>
> If someone has
better calculation method I am all ears
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 13:14:06
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
I only hope this is not
confusion with the current new recall on the
transfer case of all Eclipse GSX
AWD vehicles. As a former owner of a GSX,
I got a recall notice last
week - that recall number was C9803T (SR-98-002).
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:56:11
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Track videos
For any hardcore racers thinking about going to
Midamerica Motorplex or Blackhawk Farms, here are two excellent one-lap
videos:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=297620Both
would be good to stick into yer personal archive, for future
reference.
My buddy Brian, driving a Z06 Corvette, shot this video. You
could lay my Blackhawk written description down and follow along, because he
follows nearly the same line as I do. He is a litle different through 2, 3D and
4, but the same through 1, Carousel, 5, 6 and 7.
Brian is my nemesis. I
am ALMOST as fast as he is, and it frosts me no end that I can't catch him.
Where I am hitting 110, he's up to 125 or 130. Them Zogs is fast! I'll get
him someday. More boost!
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:01:23
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
How do we contact
this guy and tell him ?
HELL YES !!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday,
May 10, 2002 1:22 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Custom
6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
I got this email today from
Chris Fisher, Pres of PowerHausII
Best, --Forrest
-
---------------------------
Dear Friends-
I was referred to this
Web Site by Matt at Dynamic Racing.
My company, PowerHaus II, is the
leading company in the world regarding
variety and quantity of special gear
ratios for Porsche gearboxes. Cars
with our gears have won in class at
the 12 Hours of Sebring, 24 Hours of
Daytona, Petit LeMans, numerous Club and
Historic events, and have seen top
finishes at the 24 Hours of LeMans in the
Courage Porsches, with one car
being driven by Mario and Michael
Andretti.
We also have made and are making race and performance ratios
for BMW and
Subaru WRX cars, and may shortly being going into Nissan
gears.
I have a highly developed 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo, which I
converted to the
six speed gearbox when it became available, and have
considered making a
close ratio gear stack for it. After talking with
Matt, who was excited to
hear about this, I thought it would be good to
get some feedback from other
owners.
I have analyzed the gearing for
the six speed, where I will put my main
focus, and there is room for vast
improvement. Correct gearing would make
these cars MUCH faster and a lot more
enjoyable to drive.
A proper gearbox will cost between $ 7000 and $ 8000,
depending on how the
final gear stack comes out.
For quarter mile,
quick street use, roadracing and top speed runs, everyone
will be able to
benefit big-time from what we can build.
Please respond to me if you
could be serious about such a gearbox.
Thank you
Chris
Fisher
President, PowerHaus II
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:07:46
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
Or make 1-4 close
ratio and leave 5 & 6 alone for highway driving.
Even better, give us
our choice.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 13:27:14
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
i think ideally, two gear
boxes would be necessary, one for dragracing
and one for road racing.
Drags want very close ratios while road racing
needs taller gears. I
like jim's idea about leaving the taller gears
alone, but maybe just
6th. There's plenty of room to make 5th short
enough to reach about
140 at redline.
I like my current 5-speed for normal driving, but there's
definitely a
need to shorten things up at the track. Entering a
highway in 3rd just
makes for a rush that is unparalleled; reaching 125 or
so at redline.
Shorter gears would be great to kick some ass, royally,
though.
just my $0.02.
Damon
Floyd, Jim wrote:
> Or
make 1-4 close ratio and leave 5 & 6 alone for highway driving.
>
> Even better, give us our choice.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 13:35:18
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
The 91 had a recall from a long time
ago ---- there is a TSB around
covering the
recall.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case
Recall!
> The '91 is a bit iffy too? Why would Mits leave out
the 1st model year?
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:31:04
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
I think the '91 recall had to
do with seals.
I too am wondering what is different about the '91 from
the '92-'99 that
they would be left out of the recall.
Also, I'm
curious as to the problem that the recall is intended to solve.
I bought
a friends '91 (he bought it new) about 15 months ago. It now has
95k miles and I have yet to notice any syncro problems, etc. I'm
wondering
my car will remain healthy or if it's just a matter of time before
the
tranny or transfer case has a major problem.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 17:09:13
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: rebuilding a rear caliper
I have a leak in one of my rear
caliper. I can buy the rebuild kit for
$20.00.
I have the
caliper apart and the piston out. The rubber boot on the piston
is
ripped.
My questions are:
1: What comes in a rebuild
kit?
2: How do you take the rubber boot off?
3: How do you get the piston
back in?
4: Should I just take it to a local shop and have them put the
caliper back
together?
5: Does anyone have any step by step directions on
how to rebuild a caliper?
Rgds
Moe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 16:36:37
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
I meant to copy
my list post about this to Chris from PowerHausII...
I'm forwarding our
comments (so far) to him and here's his email for
direct
inquiries:
Chris Fisher--
President, PowerHausII
chrisfisher@lisco.comBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:37:17
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case Recall!
About 6 weeks ago?, on 3Si
Brian at GT Pro pointed out that Pomona Mitsu was
working with Mitsu in
obtaining transfer cases for study. I tried to get in
on it and they
told me I was ineligible as my Transfer case had already been
changed -
production date 12/91 (25 spline). I wonder if they'll change
mine
again on the VR-4.
On my Stealth, which Pomona was not authorized to do
Dodges, the production
date is 9/91 and as I just got it and yanked the
engine and trans (and found
out it has an 18 spline output shaft) - I wonder
if it's been done and if I
can get a new transfer out of the recall -
wouldn't that be cool.
Good Luck to us all,
Rick
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gerhard" <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: FW: Official Transfer Case
Recall!
> I think the '91 recall had to do with seals.
>
>
I too am wondering what is different about the '91 from the '92-'99 that
>
they would be left out of the recall.
>
> Also, I'm curious as to
the problem that the recall is intended to solve.
>
> I bought a
friends '91 (he bought it new) about 15 months ago. It now has
>
95k miles and I have yet to notice any syncro problems, etc.
I'm
wondering
> my car will remain healthy or if it's just a matter of
time before the
> tranny or transfer case has a major
problem.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 17:33:44
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
Ok, now I am confused. Every car
that I have ever seen has the exhaust
mounted to rubber bushings, flexible
bands and what not. As I understand
it, a flex section is there to aid
these flexible mounts so that the mounts
are not over stressed. Having
a flex section anywhere before the first
exhaust mount should accomplish
this.
I guess my original question should have been, "Are the stock
exhaust mounts
sufficient enough to handle the year in and out stress of
street and race
driving WITHOUT the aid of a flex section?"
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:39:21
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
rebuilding a rear caliper
Moe,
I haven't rebuilt the rears yet, but I
did have to rebuild the fronts.
It's a fairly easy process, just take your
time and be careful. This is
how I did the fronts:
1)
Remove the dust boot ring from the outside of the piston. The rest
of
the boot will come off with a little tugging.
2) Insert a small wood
block into the caliper and attach an air hose to
the brake line and SOFTLY
inject air into the caliper to push out the
piston. If the block is
too small, then the piston will fly out and
probably scare the crap out of
you (sure did me). If you've got dual
pistons in the rear (2nd gen
TT), then make sure that both pistons are
pushed out enough to grab them and
remove them by hand.
3) Once the pistons are out, use a very small
screwdriver or sewing
needle to remove the inner seal. It should be
slightly raised from the
sidewall of the piston sleeve (or caliper, what
ever you call the part
where the piston sits in).
Installation is
simply the reverse of the above. Just make sure that
there's some
brake fluid on the seal itslef before you install it. it
helps keep
the seal intact.
Good luck and let me know if you need any
help.
Damon
Moe Prasad wrote:
> I have a leak in one of my
rear caliper. I can buy the rebuild kit for
> $20.00.
>
> I have the caliper apart and the piston out. The rubber boot on the
piston
> is ripped.
>
> My questions are:
>
>
1: What comes in a rebuild kit?
> 2: How do you take the rubber boot
off?
> 3: How do you get the piston back in?
> 4: Should I just take
it to a local shop and have them put the caliper back
> together?
>
5: Does anyone have any step by step directions on how to rebuild a
caliper?
>
>
> Rgds
> Moe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:13:34
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rebuilding a rear caliper
Replacing those seals is almost as easy
as replacing the brake pads. You
will just have to bleed the brakes when you
are done. I did it on Wednesday.
Wash the calipers from the outside
thoroughly before you take them apart. I
just removed the brake pads and
squeezed the pistons out by pumping the
brake pedal. Watch those pistons to
make sure they are coming out all
simultaneously. You can pry some of them
out a little or push others back
in if you have to.
The kit comes
with a piston seal and a dust seal for every piston of the
caliper. There is
also a little bag of special grease there. Use it to
lubricate the new seals
before you install them.
Philip
At 21:39 5/10/2002, Damon Rachell
wrote:
>Moe,
>I haven't rebuilt the rears yet, but I did have to
rebuild the fronts.
>It's a fairly easy process, just take your time and
be careful. This is
>how I did the fronts:
>
>1)
Remove the dust boot ring from the outside of the piston. The rest of
>the boot will come off with a little tugging.
>
>2) Insert a
small wood block into the caliper and attach an air hose to
>the brake
line and SOFTLY inject air into the caliper to push out the
>piston. If the block is too small, then the piston will fly out
and
>probably scare the crap out of you (sure did me). If you've
got dual
>pistons in the rear (2nd gen TT), then make sure that both
pistons are
>pushed out enough to grab them and remove them by
hand.
>
>3) Once the pistons are out, use a very small screwdriver
or sewing needle
>to remove the inner seal. It should be slightly
raised from the sidewall
>of the piston sleeve (or caliper, what ever you
call the part where the
>piston sits in).
>
>Installation is
simply the reverse of the above. Just make sure that
>there's some
brake fluid on the seal itslef before you install it. it
>helps
keep the seal intact.
>
>Good luck and let me know if you need any
help.
>Damon
>
>
>Moe Prasad wrote:
>
>>I
have a leak in one of my rear caliper.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:13:34
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rebuilding a rear caliper
Replacing those seals is almost as easy
as replacing the brake pads. You
will just have to bleed the brakes when you
are done. I did it on Wednesday.
Wash the calipers from the outside
thoroughly before you take them apart. I
just removed the brake pads and
squeezed the pistons out by pumping the
brake pedal. Watch those pistons to
make sure they are coming out all
simultaneously. You can pry some of them
out a little or push others back
in if you have to.
The kit comes
with a piston seal and a dust seal for every piston of the
caliper. There is
also a little bag of special grease there. Use it to
lubricate the new seals
before you install them.
Philip
At 21:39 5/10/2002, Damon Rachell
wrote:
>Moe,
>I haven't rebuilt the rears yet, but I did have to
rebuild the fronts.
>It's a fairly easy process, just take your time and
be careful. This is
>how I did the fronts:
>
>1)
Remove the dust boot ring from the outside of the piston. The rest of
>the boot will come off with a little tugging.
>
>2) Insert a
small wood block into the caliper and attach an air hose to
>the brake
line and SOFTLY inject air into the caliper to push out the
>piston. If the block is too small, then the piston will fly out
and
>probably scare the crap out of you (sure did me). If you've
got dual
>pistons in the rear (2nd gen TT), then make sure that both
pistons are
>pushed out enough to grab them and remove them by
hand.
>
>3) Once the pistons are out, use a very small screwdriver
or sewing needle
>to remove the inner seal. It should be slightly
raised from the sidewall
>of the piston sleeve (or caliper, what ever you
call the part where the
>piston sits in).
>
>Installation is
simply the reverse of the above. Just make sure that
>there's some
brake fluid on the seal itslef before you install it. it
>helps
keep the seal intact.
>
>Good luck and let me know if you need any
help.
>Damon
>
>
>Moe Prasad wrote:
>
>>I
have a leak in one of my rear caliper.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:33:39
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rebuilding a rear caliper
Actually, the seal is prelubed and
should be left alone. The grease packet
is for where the dust boot holds on
to the piston. Apply brake fluid to the
piston walls in the
caliper.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:46:23
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuilding a rear caliper
My biggest problem was the
boot. When Damon told me about the little tug,
it came right
out.
I will order the kit tomorrow. and should have it by Wed of next
week.
Thanks for all the help.
Best
Regards
Moe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:02:20
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Custom 6spd Gearbox from PowerHausII offered...
> A proper
gearbox will cost between $ 7000 and $ 8000, depending on how the
> final
gear stack comes out.
Eeeeooowww! Is that the cost of the
prototype, or will that be the cost per
unit after development is
complete?
- -Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:12:06
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Access to the evaporator
Usually the following does the trick to
get rid of AC odors:
1) put some water and some chlorine (Clorox lemon scent
:)) into a spray
bottle
2) open doors & windows
3) with car
running, turn on AC, set to outside air mode
4) spray into air intake vents
by the windshield wipers
5) switch air recycle mode
6) spray into air
intakes by footwells
The chlorine smell is pretty strong for a few days,
but the mold & mildew
should be eliminated.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "P N Sankarshanan"
<
yoss@aracnet.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, May 10, 2002 11:35 AM
Subject: Team3S: Access to the
evaporator
>
Folks:
>
> I'm
planning on trying a product that is supposed to
alleviate
(I'm
> not
sure if it can eradicate) the mildew/musty odor problem in
my
AC
>
vents.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 00:16:10
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch release
Hi all,
My understanding
has always been that when the clutch pedal is fully
depressed, the clutch is
completely disengaged. Assuming that's correct, who
can explain this - with
the clutch all the way to the floor, i try to put
the car into gear (this is
most evident with reverse, for some reason) and
it starts rolling in the
respective direction?! Does that mean that the
clutch isn't disengaging
completely? If so, who's fault is it - is it a
faulty clutch or was it
installed improperly. In either case, that means
that the clutch has been
beating on my synchros, which as we all know aren't
too good to begin with...
fun...
I'll skip the rant on the incompetency of mitsu mechanics, suffice
it to
say - stay clear of satan!
Alex
'95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 00:22:41
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost control solenoid
My stock boost gauge is reading 7psi
(sometimes a little more) at WOT.
That's instead of the usual 14 that it
shows (instead of 12 which it should
be showing). I automatically assumed
that it was the boost control
solenoid - 7 is too magical of a number to be
random (wastegates kick in
around there).
I took it into the dealer
(it's under warranty - might as well get it done
fer free), and he told me
that I'm retarded and it's just the boost gauge
going bad. But my "butt dyno"
is telling me that the car isn't pulling as
hard as it used too...
Can
the stock boost gauge go bad, and if so would it show like that? It's
not
erradic, it moves just as smoothely as before, all that's changed is
where it
tops out.
Is there a specific procedure for testing the boost
solenoid?
Alex
'95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:38:56
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost control solenoid
I couldn't find an answer to this on
the internet, and I figured it might
help out Alex if I asked this, so here
goes:
In the Mitsubishi Eclipse the stock boost guage mearly guesses at the
boost
being run by looking at engine RPMs and throttle position. I have heard
that
this is the same in the 3000GT, that boost is mearly guessed, and it is
not
an actual measurement (which would acount for why in the service manual
they
tell you to attach a pressure guage to check boost at 3500 rpm in 2nd
gear).
So, does the 3000GT boost guage actually show boost, or is just just a
guess
like in the Eclipse?
Donald
- -1993 3000GT VR-4
(Stock)
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@earthlink.net>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday, May
10, 2002 11:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: Boost control solenoid