Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 10
2002 Volume 01 : Number
836
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 9 May 2002 11:16:13 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
No problems are reported at all. But I
just feel better having one flex
before and after the y in the downpipe. My
muffler shop has this done to my
ATR and it's just for me knowing it can flex
now. A flex section of course
and crack.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
ww.rtec.ch
> I am about to buy a down pipe for my 92 Stealth RT
TT. I am not sure if I
> should buy one with or without a flex
section. Has anyone had problems
with
> one or the
other?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 06:46:57
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: what causes knock when punching it at mid rpms
I meant to say
that the airflow is miniscule during the brake-boosting, it
goes up of course
when I let off the brakes and begin moving.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 5:11 AM
To: Bill vp
Subject: Re: Team3S: what
causes knock when punching it at mid rpms
I have no idea but the VPC
tweaks the airflow signal and what yo usee is
what the VPC sends. Drive it
with this boost at this rpm normally and check
the the signal. If it is not
the same in yoru test then the VPC does
something wrong. This is why some do
not like the old VPC as it just does
things one cannot explain
why.
Hope this helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To: "Roger
Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Cc:
"team3/S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 9:38 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: what causes knock when
punching it at mid rpms
> Here's another thing that I've noticed
recently, which I'm not sure if I
> could do when I was stock (probably
could). If I brake-boost, I can get
> full boost without
accelerating. I have only tried this up to 14.5 psi,
but
> in 3rd
gear at 4000 rpm, if I hold the brake with one foot and floor it
with
>
the other, I can get up to 14.5 psi (which is where my boost controller
is
> set at), and when I let go of the brake, there is instant
acceleration --
> instead of any lag at all, the boost
stays.
>
> Now for the part having to do with this post. If I
floor it at 4000 rpm
in
> 3rd, then I get pretty heavy knock, which
stays until redline. Like I
said
> before, if I run it through
the gears, I get little to no knock in this
rpm
> range in 3rd.
If however, I brake-boost as described above at 4000 rpm --
> and then let
off the brake while flooring it, there is NO KNOCK. Why
would
>
this be? According to the pocketlogger, the airflow is miniscule
(barely
> above zero.
>
> again, I have 15G's, vpc/safc, BOV,
fuel, etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:20:38
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
If I remember
correctly, the stored codes are sent to the connector only for
a while when
the ignition is first turned on. If the ignition has been on
for a
while, it may not be sending. all codes are not necessarily
stored,
some are cleared when the condition that caused them is
corrected. The
signal is only on one pin - I have to look it up to see
which one. I have
always used a voltmenter and never a test
lamp.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
moreton [SMTP:moreton@zim.co.zw]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 2:11
AM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with
Diagnostic Codes
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I've been trying to
get the diag codes out of my 92 VR4 to establish what
> is
> causing
the CE light to come on, which then kills the engine. I've been
> using a
test lamp, and grounding one end on PIN 12 whilst touching the
>
other
> end to one of the other PINS at the same time (I've tried all the
other
> PINS
> 1-11 one at a time), but I'm not getting any flashes
on the testing lamp.
>
> I've confirmed the obvious things ie.
Ignition on, 12V tester working,
> battery charged. Any ideas on why I'm
not getting anything out of the diag
> connector?
>
> Tony in
Zim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 06:53:33
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: tdo4 turbos waste gate
Are the stock TD04 turbos preset with a
8.5psi internal waste. If so how are
these turbos able to boost past this
setting? Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:37:56
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tdo4 turbos waste gate
> Are the stock TD04 turbos preset with
a 8.5psi internal waste. If so how
are
> these turbos able to boost
past this setting? Mike S 92 rt tt
Yes, they are set approximately in
that range. They boost higher because
the pressure being sent to the
wastegate actuators is modulated by bleeding
off some of the pressure (in the
case of the stock boost control setup), or
waiting until the turbos spool to
a set boost pressure and then sending
pressure to the wastegate all at once
to regulate boost (in the case of an
electronic solenoid controller).
Some manual controllers (bleedoff valves)
just further reduce the amount of
pressure that reaches the wastegate
actuators to increase
boost.
Regardless of the method, it is all about controlling the pressure
in the
wastegate signal hose that determines how much boost the turbos are
allowed
to produce.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:47:10
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tdo4 turbos waste gate
The turbos do have an internal wastgate controlled
by a diaphragm type
controller --- as boost exceeds 6 pounds the diaphragm
pushes on a rod
which in turn opens the waste gate. To get more than 6 pounds
you
need a boost controller --- the stock unit is controlled by the ECU
and
simply allows pressurized air to escape from the diaphragm so it
thinks
the pressure in the system is below 6 pounds. If you disconnect
the
pressure line to the wastgate it thinks there is no pressure and
keeps
the wastgate closed which allows the turbos to provide maximum
boost.
I think the stock 9b's can provide about 20 pounds at WOT from 4K
to
maybe 5500 rpm at which point they start to drop off --- your car
will
knock at 20 psi without race gas and alcohol/propane
injection.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 10:55:26
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE:WAS tdo4 turbo wastegate NOW 368SX install?
A disconnected
boost hose is how I managed to grenade my motor..... 19 psi
+ 94
octane + stock injectors = BOOM
Now Tech question to anyone who has
installed 368SX (just found out that I
will need to get these to outrun the
two local Night Riders) what kind of
modifications need to be made to the oil
and coolant flow lines? How about
to the stock Turbo mounting
bracket?
If there anything else I should be aware of Let me know
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 She's down but not out
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:06:12
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brakes anyone ?
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78646&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:08:33
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
Doug...
I've had the ATR
downpipe (no flex section) for four years. The first year I also had a GReddy
catback exhaust with a test pipe (for off-road use, of course). What I found is
that the lack of a flex section caused the GReddy to bang into the left rear tow
hook so I removed the tow hook. Later I removed the GReddy completely (for
weight and back pressure reasons) and now run only a Magneflow muffler straight
off the downpipe. Again, this results in the muffler banging up against the
tunnel with each hard shift so I rigged a asbestos and rubber pad over the top.
I put the GReddy and a high flow cat back on when it's time to go through
DEQ.
BTW...I've heard of people having trouble with the welds on a
non-flex downpipe but I haven't had problems (so far, fingers
crossed).
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC
560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers, trunk mounted Optima Red Top,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb
pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors,
Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs,
Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on factory 18" chromed wheels)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: dakken [mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
May 08, 2002 5:06 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex
Section
I am about to buy a down pipe for my 92 Stealth RT TT. I am
not sure if I
should buy one with or without a flex section. Has anyone
had problems with
one or the other?
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:18:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes anyone ?
Im iffy on the weight savings.
You
drop mass, you lose braking ability. Think very hard about what I
just
mentioned there..its very relevant.
Even with alum. hats, the 2pc rotor
im selling has a much more agressive
rotor material..the total weight savings
is maybe 1lb.
On Thu, 9 May 2002, Floyd, Jim wrote:
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78646&perpage=15&pagenumbe>
r=1
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 17:15:30
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 368SX install?
> Now Tech question to anyone who has
installed 368SX (just found out that I
> will need to get these to outrun
the two local Night Riders) what kind of
> modifications need to be made
to the oil and coolant flow lines? How
about
> to the stock Turbo
mounting bracket?
The oil feed- and return-lines can stay. The return
lines can also be
upgraded if you want to do this. On my setup the braided
lines where not
flexible enough as the oil pan connections are not made to
get much stress !
So I used the stock stuff.
The water lines must be
changed (at least one of each turbo) . I cut the
banjo part of the aluminum
water lines and connected some good water hoses
for car applications to them.
In fact I only used the fittings and replaced
the tubing with high temp
hoses.
The front motor mount must be cut to fit. I got a replacement from
GT PRO.
The front wastegate may get in touch with the propeller bracket
of the fans.
I had to cut out a smaller piece.
The rear intake plenum
bracket (holds TB and intake plenum) must be cut to
fit the large
housing.
The stock wastegate actuators may be bent and adjusted to make
them work
properly. Not sure if the current turbos come with actuators
attached
already.
The intake rubber tubing fit when the internal
gasket is removed. Works well
enough.
That's it
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 16:12:42
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
I have used the ATR DP, which does not
have a flex section, for ~2.5 years and
8K miles. No problems as far as
cracking that I have discovered. There are no
reasons I can think of that
the DP or exhaust should be stressed to the point
of breaking because of the
lack of a flex section. The motion of our
transversely mounted engine moves
the entire exhaust in the front-back
direction for the most part, basically
along the long-dimension of the pipes.
>From my recollection of the
installation, the only places where the exhaust
(DP and back) is rigidly
mounted to the car is the top of the DP (inlets
connecting to the exhaust
fittings). The rest of the exhaust (stock and ATR at
least) mounts using
metal "straps" and loops of rubber. This type of mounting
absorbs the
front-back motion of the pipes due to the engine torque. However,
the
flexible mounting can cause interference of exhaust parts with other car
components. Like Chris mentioned with his GReddy setup, my ATR left
(driver's
side) muffler knocked against the tow bracket. Removing that
bracket solved
the noise problem. I don't think this is related to the lack
of a flex section
in the DP though.
The flex section might make
matching the DP inlets to the exhaust fittings
easier. However, the ATR DP
matched up well with the fittings for my '92 TT.
More ATR info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-atr.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
-----Original Message-----
From: dakken
[mailto:dougusmagnus@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 5:06 PM
To:
Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
I am about to buy a
down pipe for my 92 Stealth RT TT. I am not sure if I
should buy one
with or without a flex section. Has anyone had problems with
one or the
other?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 18:34:42
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 368SX install?
Argh, I forgot that the stock IC piping
doesn't fit anymore of course. The
outlet is way bigger than the stock ones.
For the first tests I made an
adapter for each turbo so the 368s currently
run with the stock ICs.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Thanks Roger, what was
your opinion of them with the stock IC's?
Obviously
> not the best
solution but I would like to get at least one shakedown run
> this year
before the tracks close and waiting on FMIC will delay that.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 10:14:57
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: Brakes anyone ?
You drop mass, you lose heat
capacity, too. Less mass means the same amount
of heat will make the
temperature of the rotor rise more.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 10:19
AM
> To: Floyd, Jim
> Cc: 'Team 3S'; '3/S Racers'
> Subject:
3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: Brakes anyone ?
>
> Im iffy on the weight
savings.
>
> You drop mass, you lose braking ability. Think
very hard about what I
> just mentioned there..its very
relevant.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:01:24
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: TMO Datalogger
Well after calling TMO directly and leaving a
message as well as
contacting Buschur Racing I have come to the conclusion
that the TMO
Datalogger is about 3 months delayed. Buschur has been
trying to get
them for 2.5 months now. They are only two and a half
hours from me so
I was willing to drive there to pick one up.
So now
that the guy (or people) making the TMO Datalogger have fallen
flat on their
face as far as response and customer service ... is there
anyone within the
Watkins Glen area that has one for a first gen VR-4
that I can borrow or loan
from you? Contact me off-list or reply
on-list with related technical
issues.
How many "bad reports" does someone get before they are listed
under the
"less-than-ideal-folks-to-deal-with" list like some black-listed
dealers
are on?
Live in Pittsburgh, PA and driving to Watkins Glen
while a friend is
driving in from Connecticut. If anyone within a
reasonable distance
from these places has a TMO datalogger then please let me
know off-list.
Thanks for your time.
- --Flash!
Pittsburgh,
PA
www.schilberg.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Wednesday, May 08,
2002 22:37
Not so technical of a question but I ordered the TMO
Datalogger via
PayPal this past Sunday and then sent a follow-up email to
them on
Tuesday asking for the status of my order and if I would receive
it
before this weekend's trip to Watkins Glen.
How long does the TMO
Datalogger usually take to ship, how responsive
are they to Customer Service,
if this does not arrive in time can I
borrow or loan a Datalogger from
someone?
Usually after an order there is a phone call or email confirming
it all.
I don't see very much in the way of customer relations but maybe
they
are off racing or on vacation. I haven't heard negative things
about it
so I don't have any reason to worry but does anyone have any
insight
(yes I have messages pending on their side from questions I have
asked)?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and helping a friend's 1992 VR-4
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:56:56
EDT
From:
JayBobski@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Black
Smoke
While I was driving an intercooler hose popped off and the engine
began to
stumble (black smoke from exhaust) . Since I was only a mile from
home I
drove it slowly (it wouldn't get over 1500rpm) . Next morning I
reconnected
the hose and the car started - drove approx 50 miles with no
problems. The
next day after 30 miles of interstate driving the car starts
to stumble again
with black smoke won't idle and dies. This morning I
started the car and it
seemed to start fine and went into fast idle - revved
it a little and it went
into stumble and die mode.
I checked the
timing belt -it was fine, all marks in the right places,tension
fine. Front
plugs all black soot one smelled of gas. Checked all electrical
connections
- pulled them off put them back on.
Tach read 0 will cranking , engine
light does not stay on, boost guage while
stumbling into garage at 1500 rpm
was pegged at max , when I turned the car
off oil pressure guage went down
to 2 ticks above bottom and stayed.
Questions
1) Would the popping off
of the IC hose cause the car to stumble or is there
a coincidental
problem?
2) Could I have damaged anything by driving it home the first time
it
happened ? (O2 sensor , catalytic converter)
3) Can the crank angle
sensor be intermittant ( without respect to the
harness)?
4) Could it be
power transistor /coil problem ? ECU?
John Janicek
91VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 11:36:16
-0700
From: P N Sankarshanan <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Black Smoke
On Thu, May 09, 2002,
JayBobski@aol.com <
JayBobski@aol.com> wrote:
>
Questions 1) Would the popping off of the IC hose cause the car to
stumble
> or is there a coincidental problem?
I've had this
happen once, and the effect was quite similar to when my Y-pipe
blew away
from the throttle body - the motor died on me immediately after
it
happened. They both occured at high boost, ofcourse.
The
Y-pipe blowup was much scarier as it happened in the back straight at PIR
and
I lost braking and steering control just as the motor stopped.
They both
result in insufficient air entering the intake; this may result in
momentary
rich condition, since the air entering through the MAS has already
been
accounted for in fuel calculation, but it gets released into
the
atmosphere instead of entering the intake.
However, I am impressed
that you were able to keep the motor running long
enough to drive the 1-mile
distance.
> John Janicek 91VR4
- --
*******************************************************************************
Troi:
"Wouldn't you rather be alone with me? With me in your mind?"
- --Troi,
"The Naked Now", Stardate
41
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 11:39:48
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
OT: TMO Datalogger
That's the advantage to being the only game in town
--- Some time ago
someone mentioned cloning the device and people jumped all
over him
for even thinking of stealing someone else's intellectual property.
IMHO
if he can't or won't support his products then let someone else take
over.
When you buy one, he promises support and product enhancement but
in
reality he just takes the money and runs --- no sympathy form me if
someone
takes over his product.
Jim berry
==============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 10:01 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT: TMO
Datalogger
> Well after calling TMO directly and leaving a message
as well as
> contacting Buschur Racing I have come to the conclusion that
the TMO
> Datalogger is about 3 months delayed. Buschur has been
trying to get
> them for 2.5 months now. They are only two and a
half hours from me so
> I was willing to drive there to pick one
up.
>
> So now that the guy (or people) making the TMO Datalogger
have fallen
> flat on their face as far as response and customer service
... is there
> anyone within the Watkins Glen area that has one for a
first gen VR-4
> that I can borrow or loan from you? Contact me
off-list or reply
> on-list with related technical issues.
>
> How many "bad reports" does someone get before they are listed under
the
> "less-than-ideal-folks-to-deal-with" list like some black-listed
dealers
> are on?
>
> Live in Pittsburgh, PA and driving to
Watkins Glen while a friend is
> driving in from Connecticut. If
anyone within a reasonable distance
> from these places has a TMO
datalogger then please let me know off-list.
> Thanks for your
time.
>
> --Flash!
> Pittsburgh, PA
>
www.schilberg.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
> Sent:
Wednesday, May 08, 2002 22:37
>
> Not so technical of a
question but I ordered the TMO Datalogger via
> PayPal this past Sunday
and then sent a follow-up email to them on
> Tuesday asking for the status
of my order and if I would receive it
> before this weekend's trip to
Watkins Glen.
>
> How long does the TMO Datalogger usually take to
ship, how responsive
> are they to Customer Service, if this does not
arrive in time can I
> borrow or loan a Datalogger from someone?
>
> Usually after an order there is a phone call or email confirming it
all.
> I don't see very much in the way of customer relations but maybe
they
> are off racing or on vacation. I haven't heard negative
things about it
> so I don't have any reason to worry but does anyone have
any insight
> (yes I have messages pending on their side from questions I
have asked)?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and helping a friend's
1992 VR-4
>
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 11:42:55
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Black Smoke
Best guess would be fouled plugs --- you can also try
resettint the ECU.
Disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes then
reconnect.
Jim
berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
JayBobski@aol.com>
> While I
was driving an intercooler hose popped off and the engine began to
>
stumble (black smoke from exhaust) . Since I was only a mile from home I
> drove it slowly (it wouldn't get over 1500rpm) . Next morning I
reconnected
> the hose and the car started - drove approx 50 miles with
no problems. The
> next day after 30 miles of interstate driving the car
starts to stumble again
> with black smoke won't idle and dies. This
morning I started the car and it
> seemed to start fine and went into
fast idle - revved it a little and it went
> into stumble and die
mode.
>
> I checked the timing belt -it was fine, all marks in the
right places,tension
> fine. Front plugs all black soot one smelled of
gas. Checked all electrical
> connections - pulled them off put them back
on.
>
> Tach read 0 will cranking , engine light does not stay on,
boost guage while
> stumbling into garage at 1500 rpm was pegged at max ,
when I turned the car
> off oil pressure guage went down to 2 ticks above
bottom and stayed.
>
> Questions
> 1) Would the popping off
of the IC hose cause the car to stumble or is there
> a coincidental
problem?
> 2) Could I have damaged anything by driving it home the first
time it
> happened ? (O2 sensor , catalytic converter)
> 3) Can the
crank angle sensor be intermittant ( without respect to the
>
harness)?
> 4) Could it be power transistor /coil problem ? ECU?
>
> John Janicek 91VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 12:08:35
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Adventures in braking (+cryo rotors info)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Can Dr.
Andy Lin (I think that is who it was) get back on here or can
someone get in
touch with him to see if he knows how aggressive his pads are
or if he has
any insight?
> Rich, you said they were within spec, but were they
visually inspected
before the event? Were you looking for cracks in the
holes that go over the
studs, near the outside edges (or where the pads
engage the rotor)? I never
did this until I noticed some cracks on a friend's
rotor at the track. Then
I checked mine. Whew. All
good. But after a few months I had a small
crack developing (non-race
conditions though).
- ------------------snip--------------->
{{{I'm
copying this to the Team3S list, since the cryo info below is
important, and
I'd like it in the Archives. For those just joining the
discussion,
Merritt cracked a stock rotor racing his VR4 this past weekend,
and we've
been dissecting the problem...}}} I sent a couple of these posts
to
Andie Lin from Carbotech, since he's not a member of the
Team3SRacers
list. Here's his reply...:
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Well, first
of all...I'm not a "Dr.", hehe...just a B.A. in Intl Political
Economic with
a minor in Molecular Biology, and working on an MBA right now,
hehe.
So, that makes me a "Mr."
On the part of shattering rotors...
We
all really need to inspect our equipment before going on the track.
All
rotors will show signs of heat checking and cracking over time...this
is
simply due to the repeated heat cycles to elevated temperatures, and
rapid
cooling rates when off the brakes. Superficial "spider web"
cracking on the
surface of a rotor is normal...but if any one crack is longer
than 1/2" in
length, and has a width of greater than 0.010" (about the
thickness of a
business card), and has a depth of more than 0.002", then the
rotor is not
safe and you should trash it (i.e. for track use...for street
cruising, it
will be fine).
Now, cryogenically treating rotors will
improve rotor wear, and will also
make it more resistant to warping and/or
cracking. This does not mean that
a cryogenically treated rotor will
not crack or wrap...just makes it less
prone to doing so. A lot of
places provide cryogenic treatment...but it's
really in how the process is
handled that makes the difference. I have no
idea how Porterfield does
their cryogenic treatment...do they just put it in
a liquid nitrogen tank for
2 hours and call it a day, or do they slowly
bring it down to -90F first, and
then slowly down to -300F, and then
time-control it back to room-temp, and
then use a 3-stage heat treating
method to relieve residual stresses in the
rotor? Who knows... I'd ask
them for a print out of the entire
cryogenic process, which should have at
least 6-8 hours at -300F (-290F
minimum)...
To help with rotors cracking and also wear rates of the rotor
and the pad,
consider installing cooling ducts that actually work. The
pad alone will
not crack or warp a rotor. The P+ and XP compounds are
both very rotor
friendly - about 15-20% more rotor aggressive than an OEM
pad.
Not sure if I answered all the questions...but it's a start.
:-)
With Best Regards,
Andie Lin
andie w lin
carbotech
engineering usa
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 12:25:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Adventures in braking (+cryo rotors info)
>
really in how the process is handled that makes the difference. I have
no
> idea how Porterfield does their cryogenic treatment...do they just
put it in
> a liquid nitrogen tank for 2 hours and call it a day, or do
they slowly
> bring it down to -90F first, and then slowly down to -300F,
and then
> time-control it back to room-temp, and then use a 3-stage heat
treating
> method to relieve residual stresses in the rotor? Who
knows... I'd ask
> them for a print out of the entire cryogenic
process, which should have at
> least 6-8 hours at -300F (-290F
minimum)...
- ---
Its about a 2-3 day process, cryo orders arrive at the
facility on friday
nights, and done get back to PF until Monday
afternoon.
Other than that..you'd have to inquire with them
yourselves..I dont know
any more than that.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:33:20
+0100
From: "Blueyondermail" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject:
Team3S: Pocketlogger help
Hi Guys
I have just received and set up
Pocketlogger on my Palm and logged my first
run, only problem is i have no
idea what im looking for, i have a slight
hesitation on light throttle but do
not know what to look for on the logs,
does anyone have any instructions on
de-ciphering the Pocketlogger logs?
Thanks in
advance
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 15:37:08
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Road Racing or Auto Crossing tracks.
Hey
everybody,
I am so fired up on the Road Course events and Auto Cross
events from all the talk that has been going on in the past 2 weeks.
Can
some one tell me of a track somewhere close to Baltimore Maryland where they
have open track events, or Road Courses or Auto Crossing.
I am so excited and
have done some research but the closest one I found is like 4 hours away. I am
ready to kick some ass with my VR-4 now that it has a brand new engine and it
now the block is brocken in.
If you can provide links, or names of tracks
and if possible distances with cost, then I would try to get there this
weekend.
Thank you so much for the info.
Roman G.
94 VR-4 AAM
motor etc... Never took it to the track. This friday I will hit a Drag
strip.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 14:53:30
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Road Racing or Auto Crossing tracks.
The closest tracks to
you appear to be in Pennsylvania, Virginia or WV.
Go to
www.drivingevents.com.
You'll see
that there are no events listed in Maryland or Delaware.
Check the FAQs
for tips on how to do this, or just ask.
Braking is the big thing, and we can
help you.
Turn the boost back to stock for the time being, or you will just
get in trouble.
Rich/slow old poop
>I am so fired up on the
Road Course events and Auto Cross events from all the talk that has been going
on in the past 2 weeks.
>
>Can some one tell me of a track somewhere
close to Baltimore Maryland where they have open track events, or Road Courses
or Auto Crossing.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 16:03:08
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Road Racing or Auto Crossing tracks.
Go to Driving Events,
www.drivingevents.com, and speak with
Gregory
Gulik if you need to. I've spoken with him several times and
many of
the in-car videos are from his Porsche 911 . I am trying to get
some
from my VR-4 on his site as well. You can sign up to be notified
when
events in the states you select are being offered. Great
service.
They also have listed some AutoX events on there so it is not
all road
racing. That is just my focus so that is what I'll detail
below.
You can also search and look at track times, track maps, in-car
videos,
etc.
>From Baltimore, MD I think these are your best
opportunities (in
distance from Baltimore) and give you a good place to
start:
1. Rausch Creek in Harrisburg, PA (100 miles, 1:45 hours)
2.
Summit Point in Summit Point, WV (120 miles, 2:00 hours)
3. Pocono in Pocono,
PA (195 miles, 3:15 hours)
4. Watkins Glen in Watkins Glen, NY (355 miles,
6:05 hours)
5. VIR in Danville, VA (405 miles, 6:45 hours)
6. Mid-Ohio in
Lexington, OH (435 miles, 7:15 hours)
Point is ... if you want an event
that badly you are going to have to
chase the track that is open and
available. I'm putting on 6,500 miles
to help a friend at about 10
track events. Hard to believe it is about
the same to go to the Finger
Lakes in NY than down to VIR in Virginia.
I would have missed that on a
trivia question.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Pittsburgh, PA
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roman
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002
15:37
I am so fired up on the Road Course events and Auto Cross
events from
all the talk that has been going on in the past 2
weeks.
Can some one tell me of a track somewhere close to Baltimore
Maryland
where they have open track events, or Road Courses or Auto
Crossing.
I am so excited and have done some research but the closest one I
found
is like 4 hours away. I am ready to kick some ass with my VR-4 now
that
it has a brand new engine and it now the block is brocken in.
If
you can provide links, or names of tracks and if possible distances
with
cost, then I would try to get there this weekend.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 20:14:45
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pocketlogger help
While the display is different, the
information contained in the PocketLOGGER
and TMO logs is the same. The
following web pages will help you understand
some of the log info.
http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/http://www.vfaq.com/TMO/Tuning-Tips.htmhttp://www.tmo.com/tmo-dlog/http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo1.htmhttp://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo2.htmhttp://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo3.htmhttp://www.rtec.ch/3s_dyno4.htmlhttp://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/tmo%20datalogger%20tuning.htmhttp://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/TMO.htmA
"hesitation" may be due to improper fuel mixture for the driving situation
(the O2 readings might show this), an ignition problem (not directly
measured
by the ECM but may show up in IPW, RPM, or O2), or a sensor
malfunction (the
throttle position sensor or the engine coolant sensor, for
example; both in
the logs). Understanding the datalogger output requires, in
part,
understanding how the engine and its electronic components work. There
are
many links on these topics on the Tech page at my web site.
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Blueyondermail" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 1:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Pocketlogger help
Hi
Guys
I have just received and set up Pocketlogger on my Palm and logged my
first
run, only problem is i have no idea what im looking for, i have a
slight
hesitation on light throttle but do not know what to look for on the
logs,
does anyone have any instructions on de-ciphering the Pocketlogger
logs?
Thanks in advance
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:31:01
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Road Racing or Auto Crossing tracks.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roman" <
romachka21@netscape.net>
>
Hey everybody,
> I am so fired up on the Road Course events and Auto Cross
events from all
the talk that has been going on in the past 2 weeks.
>
Can some one tell me of a track somewhere close to Baltimore Maryland
where
they have open track events, or Road Courses or Auto Crossing. I am
so
excited and have done some research but the closest one I found is like
4
hours away.
- -------------snip------------->
You probably
won't find many world-class tracks close by. The tracks in
your area
that hold major events are Virginia Motorsports Park, Summit
Point, Lowes
Motor Speedway, Carolina Motorsports Park, Summit Point
Shenandoah, and
VIR. I'm only listing NASA Pro Racing HPDE and autocross
events, since
they are recognized as "school", and therefore are covered by
your
insurance. They also provide instructors for every skill level,
and
have 'download sessions' after every run group, to analyze your
performance.
You may find other tracks close by, but you might want to check
if you have
insurance coverage for those events. Even in this type of
"gentleman
racing" where you don't swap paint, drivers *do* make
mistakes. (SCCA holds
events, too, but our cars are grouped with mostly
race-prepped cars. We
are, in effect, 'banned' from SCCA competition,
unless we want to run
against "trailer queen" race cars).
When you get
several 3S cars to enter an area event, NASA gives Team3S "club
status", with
special parade laps and other perks. And we also like their
attention
to safety, with lots of equipment on hand at the tracks. (Some
folks
like the free child care, too). Check out their site
www.nasaproracing.com. And in the
'Virginia Region' (what you're in), the
local website is
www.nasaracing.net.
We have a list
of organizations (Porsche Club, Shelby Club, Vette Club,
BMWCCA...) that
might allow our cars to compete - it's in the racing section
on our FAQ
Pages... But check on insurance coverage for any of them. If
it
isn't 'school', it's not
covered.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:29:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: 'nother cause of running hot
I was driving in stop-and-go on the
freeway in 90 degree weather yesterday
in my 93VR4 when I noticed the
temperature guage way above normal but below
red. Shut off the AC and
exited the interstate. I had gotten hot enough to
destroy the
t-connector in my boost guage sense line. Turns out
the
wiring/connector to the passenger side fan motor was corroded. I
squeezed
the wiring with pliers and the fan came on. I will disassemble
it tonight
and make permanent repairs. Any one else have this happen?
The wiring in
questin is the part of the harness that goes past the coolant
reservior
overflow tube..
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:24:12
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
> These are
instuctions I gave someone else with
> voltmeter:
>
>
1. Find the datalink connector under the dash in
> the driver's
side.
> A. 1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin
>
12. Pin 3 is the
> third down on the left side, before the
double
> space. Pin 12 is the lower
> right corner.
> B.
2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4
> or 5. Pin 3
is
> the third from the top left side of the connector (
> on the
log side of the
> trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.
>
> 2. Turn the ignition on.
>
> 3. Look at the
voltmeter. The code is repeated
> many times. Seven
(7)
> short deflections is code =0, and means everything
> is
wonderful.
>
> 4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short =
11, G sensor
> bad.
> 2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular
velocity
> sensor open
> 2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor
open
>
> These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch
>
is off, even if you fix
> the problem.
>
> 5. These
codes disappear when you correct the
> problem:
> 6 long, 1
short=61, Front Right shock
> 6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
>
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
> 6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left
shock
>
> MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner,
but
> different pins.
>
> FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin
1, - to pin 12.
> SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and
>
watch the CHECK ENGINE light
> flashes for same sort of patterns - long
flashes
> (1.5 sec) are tens digit,
> short (0.5 sec) flashes are
ones digit. That gets
> you the same codes you
> would read on
the Scan Tool.
>
> You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for
10
> seconds, reconnecting
> and idling the car for 15 min to make
sure the codes
> don't return.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: moreton
[SMTP:moreton@zim.co.zw]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 2:11 AM
> To:
Team3s
> Subject: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic
Codes
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I've been trying to get the
diag codes out of my 92 VR4 to establish what
> is
> causing the CE
light to come on, which then kills the engine. I've been
> using a test
lamp, and grounding one end on PIN 12 whilst touching the
> other
>
end to one of the other PINS at the same time (I've tried all the other
>
PINS
> 1-11 one at a time), but I'm not getting any flashes on the testing
lamp.
>
> I've confirmed the obvious things ie. Ignition on, 12V
tester working,
> battery charged. Any ideas on why I'm not getting
anything out of the diag
> connector?
>
> Tony in
Zim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 08:57:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tdo4 turbos waste gate
By establishing a controlled leak on
the vacuum/pressure sense line you fool
the system into thinking it is
operating at a lower pressure than it
actually is. Stock turbos can easily go
to 14.7 psi (and higher if your
controller/plumbing fails).
I think
Jeff Lucius' Stealth316 web site has a lot more rigorous explanation
than
this.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Mike & Cathy [SMTP:micajoco@theofficenet.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May
09, 2002 7:54 AM
> To: team3s stealth-3000gt
> Subject: Team3S: tdo4
turbos waste gate
>
> Are the stock TD04 turbos preset with a
8.5psi internal waste. If so how
> are
> these turbos able to boost
past this setting? Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 17:03:45
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 'nother cause of running hot
I just pulled my radiator last
week and my connectors were dirty, sprayed
them with some simple green and
they looked fine.
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 She's down but not
out
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002
9:30 AM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Team3S: 'nother cause of running
hot
>
> I was driving in stop-and-go on the freeway in 90 degree
weather yesterday
> in my 93VR4 when I noticed the temperature guage way
above normal but
> below
> red. Shut off the AC and exited the
interstate. I had gotten hot enough
> to
> destroy the
t-connector in my boost guage sense line. Turns out the
>
wiring/connector to the passenger side fan motor was corroded. I
squeezed
> the wiring with pliers and the fan came on. I will
disassemble it tonight
> and make permanent repairs. Any one else have
this happen? The wiring in
> questin is the part of the harness that
goes past the coolant reservior
> overflow tube..
>
> Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 14:24:28
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
Page 17-25 of the CD manual
shows the connector as two columns of pins ---
the top right pin is ground
and the bottom left pin is the port output. The pin
above the empty slots is
not defined for use with a meter --- anybody have
better information
??????????????
Jim
Berry
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'moreton'" <
moreton@zim.co.zw>;
"Team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 6:24 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with
Diagnostic Codes
> > These are instuctions I gave someone else
with
> > voltmeter:
> >
> > 1. Find the
datalink connector under the dash in
> > the driver's side.
>
> A. 1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin
> >
12. Pin 3 is the
> > third down on the left side, before the
double
> > space. Pin 12 is the lower
> > right
corner.
> > B. 2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin
4
> > or 5. Pin 3 is
> > the third from the top left
side of the connector (
> > on the log side of the
> >
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.
> >
> >
2. Turn the ignition on.
> >
> > 3. Look at the
voltmeter. The code is repeated
> > many times. Seven
(7)
> > short deflections is code =0, and means everything
> >
is wonderful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 21:34:04
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
OBDI (1991-1993)
Diagnostic Port pin identification:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-diagconn.htmSorry,
I don't do OBD2. :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Willis, Charles
E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
"'moreton'"
<
moreton@zim.co.zw>; "Team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 09, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with
Diagnostic Codes
Page 17-25 of the CD manual shows the connector as two
columns of pins ---
the top right pin is ground and the bottom left pin is
the port output. The pin
above the empty slots is not defined for use with a
meter --- anybody have
better information
??????????????
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 16:57:02
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Adventures in braking (+cryo rotors
info)
>{{{I'm copying this to the Team3S list, since the cryo info
below is
>important, and I'd like it in the Archives. For those just
joining the
>discussion, Merritt cracked a stock rotor racing his VR4 this
past weekend,
Let's be accurate here. It exploded in a ball of fire. I
broke the sucker into three pieces. Two of the pieces left the car and almost
set the grass on fire at Turn 1. The third piece is still clamped in the caliper
(I think). What's worse, I wasn't doin' nuttin' outrageous -- no bouncing off
the ABS or standing on the brakes. Everything was...normal. Brakes were holding
up fine, a stab before 1 revealed that brakes were present and ready for use,
and no fade or pedal loss was apparent at the time. The rotor just up and broke
itself.
Film at 11.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 00:12:11
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Re: Adventures in braking (+cryo rotors
info)
Well, this sounds like time for a real good brake kit ! I think
only the
Movit with the large rotors will do it ... pricey but probably the
much
better solution as cryo treated stock rotors :-( Where they crossdrilled
? I
thought you are running the Porsche calipers, do you
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:07:30
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: How do you all measure your fuel pressure?
- -------- Original
Message --------
Subject: Re: Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel
guage
attachment
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 20:23:06 -0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Organization:
Southwestern Bell Internet Services
To: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
CC:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stReferences:
<
Pine.BSF.4.10.10205071823380.97363-100000@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
The
dealer doesn't have that part nor a cross reference and told me it
was
not
available any longer. I figured the fuel rail can't be that
much
different
for all of the 3000gt dual overhead cam engines, can
it? Do you all
take your
cars to the dealer to check the fuel
pressure? Is there a name for
this type
of special
connector? Should I cut the high pressure hose and insert
my
own
attachment to attach the guage? Thanks.
Bob
Geoff
Mohler wrote:
> If you have the PN, cant the dealer get
it?
>
> On Tue, 7 May 2002, RJM wrote:
>
> > Anyone
know where to get the attachment/special tool part number
> > MD998709
to connect to the high pressure end of the fuel rail to check
> > the
fuel pressure (then connect my fuel pressure guage to the other end)
>
> for my 1994 3000gt SL?. I've looked around a it. I
have 2 fuel
> > pressure guages with hoses long enough to tape to the
windshield but
> > none with this "special tool" adapter. Thanks
guys.
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 16:27:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
>>I've been using
a test lamp, and grounding one end
on PIN 12
> whilst touching
the
> > other
> > end to one of the other PINS at the same
time
> (I've tried all the other
Whoa! I'd be careful hooking
up a test lamp. A
voltmeter will put a much larger resistance into
the
circuit, where as a test lamp is relatively low
resistance.
Hey
you electronice guys, Am I right?
Glenn
Took electronics in High
School
And that was some time ago.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 17:40:18
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
Thank you for the input on this
subject. I'm glad that I did not see any
major problems ocure such as
mounts breaking and large sections of the
exhaust falling off. I just
ordered a down pipe without a flex section. I
am going having a custom
single pipe cat-back made for my car. If the guys
at the muffler shop
will give me a warranty with their work then I won't
worry about a flex
section. If not, then I will have one installed just
after the
catalytic converter.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 13:03:02
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Black Smoke
[Willis, Charles E.] Start by looking for
simple things - the IC
hose popped off, what else might have popped loose,
like the y-pipe or other
intercooler hoses. How much boost are you
running (trying to run)? do you
have a real boost gauge installed (not
the stock POS)? It is possible that
your ECU has learned a bad fuel map
by driving it home, and by correcting
the original problem (the loose IC
hose) you now need to either clear it and
go back to default settings
(disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10
minutes - but be sure you
have your radio security code), or drive it around
a while until the ECU
learns new settings.
>
> Questions
> 1) Would the
popping off of the IC hose cause the car to stumble or is
> there
>
a coincidental problem?
> 2) Could I have damaged anything by driving it
home the first time it
> happened ? (O2 sensor , catalytic
converter)
> 3) Can the crank angle sensor be intermittant ( without
respect to the
> harness)?
> 4) Could it be power transistor /coil
problem ? ECU?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 20:21:35
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
Well Quality Mitsubishi
called today, they said they looked at the rear
turbo and it was fine. Also
said that before I bought the car the rear turbo
failed and shot about a
quart of oil through the intake, that is why there
was oil in there.
He
said nothing about even looking at the front turbo. Would oil in the
intake
path cause my car to loose about 100hp and not have a blow off valve
that
makes any noise. Can any of you with stock VR-4s hear your bov? My car
makes
no noise when I let off the gas, meanwhile my friend's talon makes
that nifty
whoosh noise :). Waiting to get my boost guage so that I can
actually keep
track of how much boost, or lack of boost I'm running around
with. The car
drives exactly like a SL they let me test drive, can the rest
of you FEEL
boost kick in? In my friend's talon when he hits 3500 rpm it
kicks you back
into you seat...
He also drove the car around and said he couldn't get the
transmission to
"crunch" in third gear. Thats funny because whenever me, my
dad or anyone
else drives it they sure can feel it. I get the car back
tomarrow, they are
trying to figure out why my key won't open the rear
hatch...
Well I have 52 more days of warenty left, I'm sure I'll be able to
find
whats wrong with it by then!
I'll keep you guys posted, thanks for
the help!
Donald
- -1993 3000GT VR-4
(Stock)
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Cc: "tam 3S"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 08, 2002 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil in intake piping,
help please!
> When I did my cleaning of the intercoolers there
where
> several people that posted pictures of there up grade
> in
progress, I didn't keep them, but links should be
> in the search pages. I
used the service manual for
> some of the pre study on how the bumper is
connected
> and didn't find to much trouble removing it, thee are
>
a lot of bolts to keep track off and I used baggies
> for that. The
plastic screws are a pain and I replaced
> many
> buying from local
body shop supply sources as the ones
> from the factory are pricy. I also
replaced the screws
> holding the intercoolers with good quality bolts.
You
> need to remove everything to get to them so why not. I
>
didn't remove the oil cooler just disconnected it from
> the brackets and
worked it around the intercooler to
> remove the cooler. The main thing is
to keep track of
> the difern't type of screws holding the covers
around
> the wheel well and use patience and keep at it and it
>
shouldn't take more then a hour or two to remove the
> bumper depending on
staying organized. I used red tape
> around everything from the right just
to keep it
> separate only because I had red tape around. The
truth
> is the bumper is just a piece of light weight plastic.
> One
more thing like everything in the service manual
> it shows far more steps
then are really required. Once
> the mud covers and air scoops and all the
stuff in the
> under front is off, the bumper is only held on by
a
> very few screws and bolts to the fender. If questions
> come up
I'm sure you can get help here. The only
> problem I had is the very front
plastic pins around
> the license Plate that needed a very small off
set
> Phillips to get them disconnected. In several cases I
> used
small dikes to just cut some of the plastic pins
> out. Again because of
the several different types of
> plastic pins used, keep track of the type
you remove
> from each area, maybe some white tape stuck to each
>
hole with a small note would be helpful. A small
> electric drill with a
ten MM end would speed things
> right along. Also two of the four bolts
holding the
> bumper to the fender are nylon, be sure not to strip
>
them. Last there is a weather strip between the bumper
> and fender it is
glued to the bumper and should not be
> a problem but make sure it is not
pinched or out of
> shape puting the bumper back on or you may wind
up
> with a slight gap. Good luck and remember if you have
> done it
once the second time is a snap. Now for the
> plum some members claim they
remove the intercoolers
> without removing the bumper, I couldn't figure
out how
> myself but maube next time.
>
> peter 92 tt
stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:35:52
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Road Racing or Auto Crossing tracks.
Also try
www.autocross,comYou will see under
the big "Autocross.com" a menu tab. Click that and view
"Club
list".
Have fun,
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Roman" <
romachka21@netscape.net>; <
Team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday, May
09, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road Racing or Auto Crossing
tracks.
> The closest tracks to you appear to be in Pennsylvania,
Virginia or WV.
> Go to
www.drivingevents.com.
> You'll
see that there are no events listed in Maryland or Delaware.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 00:04:07
-0400
From: "Samuel Mercedes Jr." <
elrey@techcom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Air Intake Resonator
I was wondering. I just took of my air intake
resonator on my 92' SL. I
really didnt notice much difference, or low end
gain. My question is am i
the only one how didnt notice a change or do you
have to do something else
in addition to that to make it work (i.e air
intake). I was just curious to
know if anyone has hydrolocked there engine
with a cold air intake that runs
straight to the bottom of the
engine.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 21:13:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
Donald, When the rear turbo
fails, then I guess they
replaced it or had it rebuilt. In any case one of
the
steps in that process is cleaning out the IC pipes and
intercoolers,
if they didn't do that, then that was
not good, a question I would put to the
dealer.
peter 92 TT Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:55:38
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO - Help!
Some things to check:
1)
Ignition module under the coil (already mentioned) This went out on
my
'91 VR4 two times! I had the same symptoms that Rich F.
described.
2) Temperature sensor for the ECU (this is seperate from the
sensor for the
temperature gauge)
3) ECU. Check for leaking
capacitors.
4) Camshaft position sensor.
Good
luck,
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 00:45:39
-0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
IndyStealth@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Black Smoke
- ----- Original Message -----
> I
checked the timing belt -it was fine, all marks in the
right
places,tension
> fine. Front plugs all black soot one smelled of
gas. Checked all
electrical
> connections - pulled them off put them
back on.
Jay: You probably just need new plugs.
I also had
this happen recently. Actually, my Y-pipe exploded from
a
backfire. The car continued to run OK while it was warm, enough to
drive
1/2 mile. It stumbled if I pressed on the accelerator pedal, and
belched
black smoke out the tailpipes. I had to "idle" it to a safe
parking place.
I replaced the Y-pipe, but the car wouldn't start at all the
next day.
A knowledgeable mechanic checked everything over - timing belt
was fine,
compression check OK, etc. He pulled the plugs and they were
completely
black -- totally fouled from the engine running in fail-safe mode,
which is
very rich. According to the mechanic, the computer isn't
sensing *any* air
coming past the MAS (because it is coming in downstream
where your
intercooler pipe is open), so it just starts dumping gas into the
engine to
be on the safe side.
The mechanic put new plugs in, and it
runs great.
You said your plugs are black and one smelled of gas, so it
sounds like
you've got the same problem. Change all of the plugs and I
bet it will fire
up just fine.
Roger Roskam
91 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 04:41:25
-0700
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Dodge Stealth ES
Hello
I have a problem that i cant
solve.
The car vill not go properly.
1. Electic is ok. Have made a
computercheck.
2. New sparkplugs.
3. New Sparkwires. (thanks for the no4
Jeff Lucius).
4. All injectors works at 700 rpm.
My problem is that is
car on higher rpm goes on only 4-5 cyl.
Could the injectors be the
problem?
Hans
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#836
***************************************