Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, May 9
2002 Volume 01 : Number
835
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 May 2002 05:22:37 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: what causes knock when punching it at mid rpms
In 3rd gear if I
floor it from 3000 rpm, I'll get around 14 knock counts on
the pocketlogger
that stays there all the way to redline; however if I run
through the gears,
there is no knock in 3rd. Why is this?
I have 15G's, 550, walbro,
vpc/safc, etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 13:38:04
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what causes knock when punching it at mid rpms
Your VPC acts
different and discharge temperature of the turbos is
higher.
Roger
93'3000GT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 10:26:29
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AC Problem #3
John: There can be many causes for the cold
air not working. I currently
have the same problem. The first place to look
is at the magnetic clutch
relay. This is a small black relay in the engine
compartment in the section
of the compartment near the radiator and on the
drivers side. I have a 93
and in the black relay box are two fuses and 4
relays. The purpose of the
mag clutch relay is to get juice to the magnetic
clutch on the compressor.
If it does not pull the points together there will
never be any cold air. I
went to a dodge dealer yesterday but they did not
have the part. It can't be
very expensive. It can be tested by jumping the
relay and the instructions
for doing this are in the manual sold on the
stealth site. Let us know how
it works out. This is an easy swapout that
anyone can do. It is certainly
worth looking at before spending 800-1000
dollars.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "John Sheehan"
<
Johns@KYSO.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 07, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: AC Problem #3
>
I looked at the CD version of the manual and there are a dozen things
that
> need to be checked --- the control unit is located right below the
control
> panel. You need the manual to do the checks, there is too much
info to
> write it up in an email.
>
> The check engine light
can also show problems and stores failure
codes.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ==================================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "John Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 7:38 PM
> Subject: Team3S: AC Problem
#3
>
> > I guess nobody has any idea on what I should do! No
responses!
> > I now have had a second place tell me the same thing
They Think ? Only
> > now it would be $875.00. Can some body look up in
their manual and let
> > me know if this is a part and were it is
located ? Thank you !!!!! John
> >
> > I have a AC problem on
my 93 VR-4. Freon is good, checked all other
> > items as listed but it
still blows standard air. So I took it to an AC
> > shop and they told
me it was the AC control module and would cost
> > $1200.00 to replace.
I don't think so !!!!!! Does this sound true? What
> > else can I check
? Where is the control module located ? Could it be in
> > the climate
control temp sensor ?
> > I am at a loss until I get a manual ( same
problems as others, on order
> > from dealer and now they say they
can't get it anymore !) I will order
> > the CD for now.
>
>
Thank you ! John Sheehan
>
>
93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:51:19
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: bad TOB cause slipping clutch?
thanks for the reply
yes, I
have a '91 R/T tt, with 15G's, fuel, etc.
I had a new Fidanza flywheel
installed at the same time (about 4k miles
ago), and did a full 1k miles of
pure city stop-and-go driving to break it
in. It does not slip in 5th
at 15 psi. The TOB did not start rattling
until right about when the
break-in period ended.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
jacomj@aur.alcatel.com
[mailto:jacomj@aur.alcatel.com]On Behalf Of
Marc Jonathan Jacobs
Sent:
Wednesday, May 08, 2002 9:46 AM
To: Bill vp
Subject: Team3S: bad TOB cause
slipping clutch?
An incorrectly installed TOB can cause slipping
clutch. Based on your
description, it sounds like the TOB is
dis-engaging all the way
correctly, it just rattles/squeeks due to wear,
wrong size, or bad
bearing.
When the RPS was installed, was the
flywheel resurfaced? Did they
resurface it correctly using a 2-step
process where they pull the
alignment pins out, and resurface the bolting
surface the same ammount?
This would be my bet. The clutch could be
worn too. How about 6th gear
- - +12PSI boost. My Centerforce
started slipping there first. I am
assuming you have a turbo 3/S.
If not, the launches would slip first on
a worn clutch. My Centerforce
only lasted 1.5 years, 12K miles.
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 05:02:54
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: bad TOB cause slipping clutch?
Is this possible? I have a
bad throwout bearing apparently (it makes a
horrible racket except for when I
push the clutch in), and my RPS Stage
III
does not seem to grip well at
all on launches. I can't slip it at all
or it
will not grab and keep
pulling in 1st. I can do a quick lift on the
clutch
at certain high
revs and it is fine, but I cannot do a ~3500 rpm
slip-clutch
launch on it
like I could with the factory one (although I have more
mods
now than
then). So anyways, the question remains the same as in
the
subject.
thanks for any replies,
Bill
- --
Marc J.
Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:50:07
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: AC Problem #3
I you look closely, all the relays are the same in
that box.
Try switching the relays around and see if it starts
working.
Rich
- ---- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Woll"
<
awoll1@pacbell.net>
To:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; "John
Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 08, 2002 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: AC Problem
#3
> John: There can be many causes for the cold air not
working. I currently
> have the same problem. The first place to look is
at the magnetic clutch
> relay. This is a small black relay in the engine
compartment in the
section
> of the compartment near the radiator and
on the drivers side. I have a 93
> and in the black relay box are two
fuses and 4 relays. The purpose of the
> mag clutch relay is to get juice
to the magnetic clutch on the compressor.
> If it does not pull the points
together there will never be any cold air.
I
> went to a dodge dealer
yesterday but they did not have the part. It can't
be
> very expensive.
It can be tested by jumping the relay and the instructions
> for doing
this are in the manual sold on the stealth site. Let us know how
> it
works out. This is an easy swapout that anyone can do. It is certainly
>
worth looking at before spending 800-1000 dollars.
>
> Andy
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> To: "John Sheehan"
<
Johns@KYSO.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AC Problem
#3
>
> > I looked at the CD version of the manual and there are a
dozen things
that
> > need to be checked --- the control unit is
located right below the
control
> > panel. You need the manual to do
the checks, there is too much info to
> > write it up in an
email.
> >
> > The check engine light can also show problems
and stores failure codes.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
==================================================
> > ----- Original
Message -----
> > From: "John Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>
> > To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 7:38 PM
> > Subject: Team3S: AC
Problem #3
> >
> > > I guess nobody has any idea on what I
should do! No responses!
> > > I now have had a second place tell me
the same thing They Think ? Only
> > > now it would be $875.00. Can
some body look up in their manual and let
> > > me know if this is a
part and were it is located ? Thank you !!!!!
John
> > >
>
> > I have a AC problem on my 93 VR-4. Freon is good, checked all
other
> > > items as listed but it still blows standard air. So I
took it to an AC
> > > shop and they told me it was the AC control
module and would cost
> > > $1200.00 to replace. I don't think so
!!!!!! Does this sound true?
What
> > > else can I check ? Where
is the control module located ? Could it be
in
> > > the climate
control temp sensor ?
> > > I am at a loss until I get a manual (
same problems as others, on
order
> > > from dealer and now they
say they can't get it anymore !) I will order
> > > the CD for
now.
> >
>
Thank you ! John Sheehan
> >
>
93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 19:37:14
-0400
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSubject:
Team3S: Exhaust
Can someone please explain to me the difference between
the Stillen downpipe
and catback exhaust? Thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 16:59:37
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust
> Can someone please explain to me the difference
between the Stillen
downpipe
> and catback exhaust? Thanks.
Your
exhaust is set up this way: engine, exhaust manifold, turbo, pre-cat,
down
pipe, catalytic converter, piping, mufflers in that order. A
cat-back
exhaust is the piping and muffles after the catalytic
converter. The down
pipe is the part between the pre-cats and the
catalytic converter.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:06:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
I had a lot of oil in my IC
pipes, it turned out to be
the rear turbo which was very bad and the oil
just
flowed into the driver side intercooler and from there
into the
intakes. I required new turbos and also took
off hte front bumper and cleaned
the intercoolers. I
instaled new 13g's for the turbos myself but not
a
easy job, then again not to hard. Saved a bundle! Also
had the air box
fins trashed because I took it to
several quick oil change places and it
looks like they
pry the top off with a screw driver wreacking the
air
fins. I now have a different type air filter, any
dummy can remove it
without wreaking the car.
peter 92 TT Stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:06:26
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Down Pipe Flex Section
I am about to buy a down pipe for my 92
Stealth RT TT. I am not sure if I
should buy one with or without a flex
section. Has anyone had problems with
one or the
other?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 20:16:56
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lifters anyone ?
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=78349***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 22:36:38
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: TMO Datalogger
Not so technical of a question but I ordered
the TMO Datalogger via
PayPal this past Sunday and then sent a follow-up
email to them on
Tuesday asking for the status of my order and if I would
receive it
before this weekend's trip to Watkins Glen.
How long does
the TMO Datalogger usually take to ship, how responsive
are they to Customer
Service, if this does not arrive in time can I
borrow or loan a Datalogger
from someone?
Usually after an order there is a phone call or email
confirming it all.
I don't see very much in the way of customer relations but
maybe they
are off racing or on vacation. I haven't heard negative
things about it
so I don't have any reason to worry but does anyone have any
insight
(yes I have messages pending on their side from questions I have
asked)?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and helping a friend's 1992 VR-4
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 20:01:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
When I did my cleaning of the
intercoolers there where
several people that posted pictures of there up
grade
in progress, I didn't keep them, but links should be
in the search
pages. I used the service manual for
some of the pre study on how the bumper
is connected
and didn't find to much trouble removing it, thee are
a lot
of bolts to keep track off and I used baggies
for that. The plastic screws
are a pain and I replaced
many
buying from local body shop supply sources
as the ones
from the factory are pricy. I also replaced the screws
holding
the intercoolers with good quality bolts. You
need to remove everything to
get to them so why not. I
didn't remove the oil cooler just disconnected it
from
the brackets and worked it around the intercooler to
remove the
cooler. The main thing is to keep track of
the difern't type of screws
holding the covers around
the wheel well and use patience and keep at it and
it
shouldn't take more then a hour or two to remove the
bumper depending
on staying organized. I used red tape
around everything from the right just
to keep it
separate only because I had red tape around. The truth
is the
bumper is just a piece of light weight plastic.
One more thing like
everything in the service manual
it shows far more steps then are really
required. Once
the mud covers and air scoops and all the stuff in
the
under front is off, the bumper is only held on by a
very few
screws and bolts to the fender. If questions
come up I'm sure you can get
help here. The only
problem I had is the very front plastic pins
around
the license Plate that needed a very small off set
Phillips to get
them disconnected. In several cases I
used small dikes to just cut some of
the plastic pins
out. Again because of the several different types
of
plastic pins used, keep track of the type you remove
from each area,
maybe some white tape stuck to each
hole with a small note would be helpful.
A small
electric drill with a ten MM end would speed things
right along.
Also two of the four bolts holding the
bumper to the fender are nylon, be
sure not to strip
them. Last there is a weather strip between the
bumper
and fender it is glued to the bumper and should not be
a problem
but make sure it is not pinched or out of
shape puting the bumper back on or
you may wind up
with a slight gap. Good luck and remember if you have
done
it once the second time is a snap. Now for the
plum some members claim they
remove the intercoolers
without removing the bumper, I couldn't figure out
how
myself but maube next time.
peter 92 tt stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 21:51:03
-0700
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT nosemask
I have a nosemask, including headlight and mirror
covers, that was on my 92
VR4 when I bought it. It's in good condition,
a little dirty, I just don't
intend to use it. I have no idea who
manufactured it, but it fit quite well
and appears to be very sturdy with
soft fabric inside.
If anyone is interested, please send an offer
directly to my email address.
I'll sell to the highest offer received by 1pm
pacific time on Saturday
5/11, and I'll include UPS ground shipping to
anywhere in the continental
US.
Thanks.
Michael
92 VR4 that
has traveled from IL to OR, soon to GA and needs new struts
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 00:45:37
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking
Well, gang, I've done it now.
I broke a
stock rotor into three pieces at Blackhawk Farms today.
(Complete race
report follows later)
I was coming into Turn 1 at the end of a straight,
pumped the brakes once to see if I had pedal, and then hit the brakes at about
100 mph. I heard a big CLUNK and then no brakes. Well, severely diminished
capacity, anyway. I went sailing off the end of the straight into the grass, did
a little offroading, and managed to escape without hitting anything.
I
heard later that the start/finish line crew reported seeing "a blazing mass"
come off my front wheel. The corner worker at 1 said he thought I had broken off
some pieces of carbon fiber bodywork, until he saw them almost set the grass on
fire. "Good thing it ain't July, or the grass would be dry, and it woulda caught
fire," he said. "The only thing I have here to put out a grass fire is my cooler
full of beer."
Anyway, I got the pieces. The rotor broke off at the hat,
and then broke into three pieces. I'm missing the third piece of the rotor
puzzle, but I think maybe it's still clamped in the caliper. We put the car on
my buddy's trailer and brought it home. I'll take it to Denny's Mufflers to have
it taken apart by experts. I don't know if there is any damage to the caliper,
or if the caliper is frozen (melted?) to the rotor, or what. I'll let you know,
and I'll take pictures.
Amazingly, I still have brakes! I can actually
drive the car, and it stops. Not very well, of course, but it stops.
As
some of you may recall, I have broken rotors before, but they were PowerSlot
piece-of-shit rotors. When those rotors broke at the hat, I had NO BRAKES!
This time, I had enuf brake to keep out of the trees.
Here's the
worrisome part: These were Porterfield cryogenically treated stock rotors. What
we thought was always the SAFEST rotor around, because it was stock. They have
been on the car for a long time, and are near the end of their useful life, so
it's not like they were defective.
Guess it's time to revisit the
ongoing efforts to find us a decent rotor. Where do we stand with current
research?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4 w/Big Red Porsche calipers,
Carbotech Panther Plus pads, Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors, SS lines,
Motul 600, air ducts, water injection.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 23:18:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Adventures in braking
Easy:
Custom 2pc
rotor.
$700-750/set.
Cryos good and all, but wow..this is the
first non 1G RX7 rotor ive seen
bust so bad.
On Thu, 9 May 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> Well, gang, I've done it now.
> I broke a stock rotor into
three pieces at Blackhawk Farms today.
> (Complete race report follows
later)
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 02:02:26
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Race Report: Blackhawk Farms (Long)
The Chicago Region Porsche
Club put on a one-day, midweek event at Blackhawk Farms, a two-mile road course
near Rockford, Ill (
www.blackhawkfarms.com). It was
restricted to experienced drivers only, and those who had run Blackhawk before
(no novices and no instructors).
They stuck me in Group C, the lowest
group, along with guys like Doctor Gotrocks in his brand new 911, lots of other
ROWGs in shiny Porsches, and similar slow people. I was lapping everybody in
group C, some of them twice a session. I asked to be put up into group B2, where
I also passed everybody in the group. I went out again with group B1, which has
race-prepped Porsches and a lot of very badass cars, and didn't pass anybody. On
the other hand, nobody caught me either. Just as I had one in my sights, the
right front brake rotor broke, and that ended my day (see previous
post).
Suffice it to say that I upheld the honor of our magnificent cars.
I waxed everything in my run groups, including a Boxster S, Carreras, TT AWDs,
C4s, Turbos, 944S, 944 turbos, and other assorted Porsche treasures.
I
got a check ride with an instructor, because I hadn't run there in two years,
and he gave me some pointers, which I shall pass on to anyone who might want to
run the track:
A Lap of Blackhawk
First, remember that nearly
every turn at Blackhawk is a late apex. And turning in under full power works
extremely well here. I ran the entire track in 3rd and 4th, so I had no problems
with overheating. I also did not turn up the boost, because I didn't need it.
Click the map on the website for a better look at the
corners.
Down the front straight at about 110 to turn 1, a sweeping
right. Lift, brake, turn in, and hit the throttle before the apex. Sweep out
left, then edge back to the right for 2. Finding the correct braking point is
the trick here.
Full throttle through two (a left), just clipping the
apex (late apex!) and stay on full throttle until reaching the carousel (to the
right) at 3. You are on full throttle from the turn in at 1 until braking for
the Carousel. Most Porsches cannot (or will not) do this, so you can close up on
them easily.
Move to the outside edge of the carousel, stay out there for
two thirds of the way around at about half to 3/4 throttle, then start pinching
back in and increasing to full throttle as you approach 3D.
3D is a quick
little right-left-right-left complex. Clip the inside curb with your right front
and the next inside corner with your left front. Bang on the brakes for a
90 right, turn in and nail the throttle. Clip the apex on the right, clip
the apex on the left, and let it drift out far right as you approach 4.
Now here's the killer. This just eats up Porsches.
As you
approach 4 (a left) under full power, look for the end of the concrete patch on
the right. When you reach the end, stab the brakes to set the front suspension,
turn in HARD, and nail the throttle again. Let it drift out the right edge of
the track again, as you approach 5 under full throttle.
Wait until the
last possible microsecond, when you think you are going into the trees, and then
turn in to 5 (a left). If you do it right, you are under full power from the
turn in at four all the way to the braking point for 6. I was shifting up from
3rd to 4th just after the exit of 5, at about 95 or so.
If you are 100
ft behind a Porsche at the entrance to 3D, you will be on his butt at the exit
of 5.
(Caution: it takes a lot of cojones to go flat through 5. I was
too scared to try it when I was alone on track but always did it when I had a
Porsche in my crosshairs. It's the Red Mist or something. Point is, you CAN go
flat through 5.)
At 6 -- a long, double-jointed right -- straight line
brake, turn in to the right, full throttle, let it drift out left, and STAY OUT
THERE. Stay out there until you think you are going off into the grass, and then
turn in to the right again, still under full throttle. It gets a little dicey
through there, but the car STICKS! Again, Porsches can't do this, so the
ones you didn't get at 5 you'll get at 6.
At 7, straight line brake,
late apex, power through, and down the front straight.
It's all a
wonderful, syncopated rythym. Once you find all the turn ins and braking points,
and discover that the car really does hold the line under full power, you just
get faster and faster. It gets very busy from the Carousel to turn 6, but you
can FLY through there.
I was overhauling those lowly Porsches so fast,
the corner workers were flashing blue passing flags at cars ahead of me before I
even got there! I have never had that happen before. There were about
three different corner stations where they flashed the blue flags for me nearly
every lap. I hardly ever had to lollygag around, waiting for slow Porsches to
figure out I was back there.
At Blackhawk, our cars are magnificent. If
you are anywhere near Blackhawk Farms, give it a try.
Rich/slow old
poop
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 09:10:58
+0200
From: "moreton" <
moreton@zim.co.zw>
Subject: Team3S:
Newbie - Struggling with Diagnostic Codes
Hey Guys,
I've been
trying to get the diag codes out of my 92 VR4 to establish what is
causing
the CE light to come on, which then kills the engine. I've been
using a test
lamp, and grounding one end on PIN 12 whilst touching the other
end to one of
the other PINS at the same time (I've tried all the other PINS
1-11 one at a
time), but I'm not getting any flashes on the testing lamp.
I've
confirmed the obvious things ie. Ignition on, 12V tester working,
battery
charged. Any ideas on why I'm not getting anything out of the
diag
connector?
Tony in Zim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 03:38:25
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: what causes knock when punching it at mid rpms
Here's another
thing that I've noticed recently, which I'm not sure if I
could do when I was
stock (probably could). If I brake-boost, I can get
full boost without
accelerating. I have only tried this up to 14.5 psi, but
in 3rd gear at
4000 rpm, if I hold the brake with one foot and floor it with
the other, I
can get up to 14.5 psi (which is where my boost controller is
set at), and
when I let go of the brake, there is instant acceleration --
instead of any
lag at all, the boost stays.
Now for the part having to do with this
post. If I floor it at 4000 rpm in
3rd, then I get pretty heavy knock,
which stays until redline. Like I said
before, if I run it through the
gears, I get little to no knock in this rpm
range in 3rd. If however, I
brake-boost as described above at 4000 rpm --
and then let off the brake
while flooring it, there is NO KNOCK. Why would
this be?
According to the pocketlogger, the airflow is miniscule (barely
above
zero.
again, I have 15G's, vpc/safc, BOV, fuel, etc.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday,
May 08, 2002 7:38 AM
To: team3/S
Subject: Re: Team3S: what causes knock
when punching it at mid rpms
Your VPC acts different and discharge
temperature of the turbos is higher.
Roger
93'3000GT
www.rtec.chAt 05:22 08.05.2002 -0400, Bill
vp wrote:
>In 3rd gear if I floor it from 3000 rpm, I'll get around 14
knock counts on
>the pocketlogger that stays there all the way to redline;
however if I run
>through the gears, there is no knock in 3rd. Why
is this?
>
>I have 15G's, 550, walbro, vpc/safc,
etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 11:13:50
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT: TMO Datalogger
> How long does the TMO Datalogger
usually take to ship,
Depends where you ordered it. TMO is only one
guy.
> how responsive are they to Customer Service,
Customer
Service ?
> if this does not arrive in time can I
> borrow or
loan a Datalogger from someone?
I can't answer
> Usually after
an order there is a phone call or email confirming it all.
> I don't see
very much in the way of customer relations but maybe they
> are off racing
or on vacation. I haven't heard negative things about it
> so I
don't have any reason to worry but does anyone have any insight
> (yes I
have messages pending on their side from questions I have asked)?
Answers
may take soem time (or maybe you will never ever get a response).
You'll
probably get it sometimes and then live with it as it is.
Good
luck
Roger
93'30000GT TT
ww.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#835
***************************************