Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, May 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number
834
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 May 2002 22:20:40 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
Yup,
certainly can. My Autometer A/F gauge is upside down :)
Matt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Monday, May 06, 2002 8:00 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
John -- I
have not seen a picture yet of this gauge pod (Lotek) and
missed East Coast
because of a track event at Pocono.
What is the problem with the triple
gauge pod. It doesn't come
pre-filled with gauges does it? If not
then couldn't the driver orient
the gauges so that the top 1/3 is the useless
part (usually between 5
o'clock and 7 o'clock on the gauge where the name and
units are listed)?
For example, I have my Autometer Z-Series boost gauge
mounted all out of
whack but I know what the units are and don't need to see
the
manufacturer's name. I have 0 psi at 12 o'clock (top dead center)
and
anything to the right is boost and anything to the left is vacuum.
No
sense orienting it how the words are cuz at a quick glance on the
track
you don't want to have to remember that at the 1 o'clock position is
the
0 psi mark.
Same with water temps, oil temps, pressures, etc. when
mounted anywhere
else. 12 o'clock is always "normal operating
parameter" so anything to
the right on a quick glance tells you that gauge is
high or hot and
anything to the left is low or cold.
Agree that some
gauges do not lend well to this. Maybe an Air/Fuel
gauge that might
want to be more rich than in the middle or dual EGT
gauges that might need
oriented vertically. You see my point though.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: John Monnin
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002
22:34
The Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work, I saw a car
with it
at the East coast gathering and the gauge orientation is screwed
up.
The gauges are so close together vertically that you can not see
the
top 1/3 of the back 2 gages.
Lotek said its a bad windshield
angle so tough luck.
I would avoid the Lotek Single gage pod just install
a Autometer dual
gage pod and a second single gage pod and acutuallty be
able to read
your gages.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 06:53:43
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more
work....
Darren,
They don't come with gauges. I purchased
one with the group buy back in
March but I'm thinking of selling it now
because I can't fit a 60mm Greddy
EGT gauge in it.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.netWhat is the
problem with the triple gauge pod. It doesn't come
pre-filled with
gauges does it? If not then couldn't the driver orient
the gauges so
that the top 1/3 is the useless part (usually between 5
o'clock and 7 o'clock
on the gauge where the name and units are listed)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 08:43:54
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Wanted, set of stock 1st gen front calipers
Flash, I got
those seals yesterday, thanks. They came in a kit with the
caliper piston
seals and were $26 each - OUCH!
Philip
-
------------------------------------------
Can a Stealth wear 3000GT calipers
and vice versa? If so then I know
Philip was waiting for dust seals for
his stock front calipers after the
Gingerman track trick. I don't want
to part these out but if I have to
then let me know.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:11:17
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
A gentleman named
Adam Fortier is offering gauge pods that will hold
60 mm.
He is copied on
this E-mail if you would like to contact him.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, May 07, 2002 5:54 AM
To: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
Darren,
They don't
come with gauges. I purchased one with the group buy back in
March but
I'm thinking of selling it now because I can't fit a 60mm Greddy
EGT gauge in
it.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.netWhat is the
problem with the triple gauge pod. It doesn't come
pre-filled with
gauges does it? If not then couldn't the driver orient
the gauges so
that the top 1/3 is the useless part (usually between 5
o'clock and 7 o'clock
on the gauge where the name and units are listed)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:14:35
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
Are they
double or triple? and full pillar replacement or just bolt
on?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:33:15
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
Full pillar
replacement.
Triple for sure, double you will need to check with
him.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:23:43
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Parts
for sale
Doing some spring cleaning and found some parts that I don't
need. In
compliance with the list rules I ask that you please reply off
the list. My
E-mail is
osk@attbi.com.
Pictures can be seen here:
http://photos.yahoo.com/oep_99-
- 1st gen steering wheel without airbag. Poor condition, but
functional.
Best offer
- - 2nd gen steering wheel without
airbag. Beautiful condition. $50 obo.
- - 3 '99 VR-4 18" six
spoke chrome wheels. Damaged, in need of repair.
Best
offer.
- - Clear corners for 2nd gen Stealth (94-96).
Including orange bulbs. $100
obo.
- - 2 Nitto NT555 245/40/ZR18
93W. Approx 50% remaining tread. $125 obo.
- - OEM 6 disk CD
magazine with clear sleeve. $20 obo.
- - 4 OEM 17x8.5 Stealth TT
rims from a '94. Perfectly round and true.
Average condition.
Excellent as track wheels. Have been measured at a race
only tire shop
for roundness and balance. Fits all 3/S cars. $400 obo.
(These are
currently on hold for another list member until 5/8)
- - Brand new, never
used, still in plastic tan Stealth floor mats. They are
the light tan
color used in 1991-1995. No longer available from dealers.
Expecting a
premium for these. If interested E-mail me your best offer.
- -
Complete light tan leather interior. Everything in perfect
condition.
Out of a '95 TT with 49K miles. NO scuff marks on any of the
side bolsters.
Will sell complete or partial interior. E-mail me your
needs and we can
discuss price for the parts you need.
Buyer pays for
shipping. I accept Pay Pal, money orders and personal
checks. I'm
located in Minnesota.
I can e-mail high resolution copies (large) of
select pictures upon request.
Thanks,
Oskar
3SI
#129
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 12:22:31
-0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: R.E. Lotek 3 gage pod still needs some work
Racers are so damn
practical:)
Sure you could twist the gages so that the useless part of the
gage
was hidden but then you would have to explain to people over and over
that your gauges are twisted on purpose. I am more shallow I want my
gauges to line up nice and pretty, then I might twist them at the
track
so that anything past 12 o'clock is trouble. Fortunately my
boost
gauge is 15 psi straight up and down already.
My point is that you
have more options with the autometer dual pod
and an additional single pod,
than with the Lotek 3-gage pod. If I
find a picture I will post
a link later.
John Monnin
Original message below.
>Date:
Mon, 6 May 2002 22:59:43 -0400
>From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>.......
>What
is the problem with the triple gauge pod. It doesn't
come
>pre-filled with gauges does it? If not then couldn't the
driver
>orient the gauges so that the top 1/3 is the useless part
(usually
> between 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock on the gauge where the name and
> units are listed)?
> For example, I have my Autometer Z-Series
boost gauge mounted all
> out of whack but I know what the units are and
don't need to see
> the manufacturer's name.........
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 16:09:23
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Vitek or Magnecor?
Which set of wires is better, the Magnecor or
Vitek Performance? I had never
heard of Vitek until I came up on a group buy
going on for this. They retail
for $150 at their website and I saw them as
low as $138 on other places.
With 20% discount they're offering, they come
out to about the same price as
the magnecor ones. Anybody try out the vitek
ones?
- -ROD
http://www.vitekperformance.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 15:48:52
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help! No guage lights!!
sorry thought i sent this
in:
turns out that the tail light fuse had a hairline crack in it, replaced
it
and everything lit up nice and pretty, this was after i saw that the
guages
are wired thru that fuse. just thought i would post this so that if
anyone
else has this happen they can fix it!
i think your guage lights
also turn off if you blow a rear tail light from
looking at the wiring
diagrams, could be wrong tho
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Black,
Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
To: "'Donald
Ashby'" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 07, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! No guage
lights!!
> not to state the obvious, but...........
>
>
maybe the dimmer is turned all the way down? the simple things are
>
sometimes overlooked.....I do that myself occasionally.
>
> Dave
95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Donald Ashby
[mailto:dashbyiii@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 12:04
AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Help! No guage
lights!!
>
>
> Eghad! today i installed my new radio into the
car, well everything works
> fine except my guage faces dont light up when
i turn on the lgihts, and i
> cant get them to turn on any other way,
heres what ive tried so far:
>
> 1) checked every fuse in the car,
even the ones in engine compartment
> 2) checked the wiring on the radio,
everything seems to work ok
> 3) checked the wiring on the dimmer switch,
its getting power and routing
it
> thru
> 4) i blew the fuse on
my amp, i dont think that is pertinant, but it might
> be...
> 5)
installed a different bolt on the positive battery terminal,
the
original
> one snapped when i unbolted it!!!
> 6) I had power
cut to the car for nearly 3 hours
>
> with everything there done
(not in that order) for some reason the guage
> faces dont light up,
making it real tough to drive at night.
> a few other things that might
help: all other interior lights are
> functioning, the ring around
cigarette lighter lights up, ring around
> ignition lights up, driver side
buttons light up, radio lights up, various
> lights in the guage cluster
light up, such as brake being on and things
like
> that.
> HELP!
im completly stumped here, could it be that i blew every one of
> the
bulbs in the guages????
>
> Donald
> -93 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:39:16
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage attachment
Anyone know
where to get the attachment/special tool part number
MD998709 to connect to
the high pressure end of the fuel rail to check
the fuel pressure (then
connect my fuel pressure guage to the other end)
for my 1994 3000gt
SL?. I've looked around a it. I have 2 fuel
pressure
guages with hoses long enough to tape to the windshield but
none with this
"special tool" adapter. Thanks guys.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 18:23:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage attachment
If you
have the PN, cant the dealer get it?
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 20:23:06
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Where to get the high pressure fuel guage attachment
The dealer
doesn't have that part nor a cross reference and told me it was not
available
any longer. I figured the fuel rail can't be that much
different
for all of the 3000gt dual overhead cam engines, can it? Do
you all take your
cars to the dealer to check the fuel pressure?
Is there a name for this type
of special connector?
Thanks.
Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:38:41
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vitek or Magnecor?
I have a set of Crane Cam Firewire yellow
wires. Anybody running these?
Everything I've read says that there is no
noticeable difference in stock
wires vs. any others. Anybody care to comment
to the contrary?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F,
TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 5/7/02 2:09
PM, Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1 at
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil
scribbled:
> Which set of wires is better, the Magnecor or Vitek
Performance? I had never
> heard of Vitek until I came up on a group buy
going on for this. They retail
> for $150 at their website and I saw them
as low as $138 on other places.
> With 20% discount they're offering, they
come out to about the same price as
> the magnecor ones. Anybody try out
the vitek ones?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:07:23
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
I decided to take a look into
the intake path of my 93 VR-4 today, this was
after racing my friend's 95
Eagle Talon TSi. His Tallon has fairly bad
compression in 3 cylinders
(110,105,95,95), and the only mod on his car is
an Injen intake. He was able
to beat me twice out of the five times we
raced. The other 3 times he was so
close to beating me that I would have
lost if I had launched any worse. So
after racing him I figured that
something might be wrong with the car because
it SHOULD be pulling much
harder than it is. After taking out the stock
airbox I noticed that my air
filter was completly black and had a few things
stuck in it, the second
thing I noticed was my honeycomb has a couple dings
in it, blocking airflow
through a couple of the honeycombs. Finally after
getting some of the
intercooler to intake piping off I noticed a lot of oil
sitting inside the
pipes. Oil in the intake pipes is not good. There is also
a little bit of
oil right after the MAS, in the piping leading to the turbos,
not nearly as
much as was sitting in the IC pipes.
First question,
what could be causing the oil in the piping? I'm guessing
here with my only
background knowledge being from working on DSMs but could
an oil gasket be
leaking, or could the turbo be going bad?
Second question, how bad is it
to have a few dings in the lateral
honeycombs? Note the bends are not in the
main honeycomb but only on the
left smaller honeycomb.
Third question,
this has nothing to do with my main message, my third gear
grinds everytime I
go into it, either if I have the clutch to the floor, or
just out enough to
not be grabbing, also grinds downshifting or upshifting
at any rpm.
A
little background info: 88k on entire car, bought car from dealership
last
week, don't know if the 60k mile check up was performed will ask
dealership
tomarrow.
Thanks in advance
Donald
93 3000GT
VR-4
(many mods in the mail)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:16:10
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
Donald - Welcome to the list
and you've come to the right place.
First and foremost, take the car back
to the dealer and insist that they
replace the 3rd gear synchro and any other
synchro that grinds when you
shift into it. One week after purchase
easily counts within the Lemon
Law I believe so tell them that is not normal
and they get to put in a
remfg tranny for free (which is close to $5,000 with
parts and labor).
I hope you have a warranty on it if not a 30-day dealer
warranty.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Donald Ashby
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002
22:07
First question, what could be causing the oil in the piping?
I'm
guessing
here with my only background knowledge being from working on
DSMs but
could
an oil gasket be leaking, or could the turbo be going
bad?
Second question, how bad is it to have a few dings in the
lateral
honeycombs? Note the bends are not in the main honeycomb but only on
the
left smaller honeycomb.
Third question, this has nothing to do
with my main message, my third
gear
grinds everytime I go into it, either
if I have the clutch to the floor,
or
just out enough to not be grabbing,
also grinds downshifting or
upshifting
at any rpm.
A little
background info: 88k on entire car, bought car from dealership
last
week,
don't know if the 60k mile check up was performed will
ask
dealership
tomarrow.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 19:28:44
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Vitek or Magnecor?
Plug wires will result in improvement only if your
stock wires are defective !!!
The pretty silicon aftermarket wires look nicer
though !!!!
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
>
I have a set of Crane Cam Firewire yellow wires. Anybody running these?
>
> Everything I've read says that there is no noticeable difference in
stock
> wires vs. any others. Anybody care to comment to the
contrary?
>
> --
> Paul/.
> on 5/7/02 2:09 PM,
Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1 at
>
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil
scribbled:
>
> > Which set of wires is better, the Magnecor or
Vitek Performance? I had never
> > heard of Vitek until I came up on a
group buy going on for this. They retail
> > for $150 at their website
and I saw them as low as $138 on other places.
> > With 20% discount
they're offering, they come out to about the same price as
> > the
magnecor ones. Anybody try out the vitek ones?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 19:38:36
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Team3S: AC
Problem #3
I guess nobody has any idea on what I should do! No responses!
I now have had a second place tell me the same thing They Think ?
Only
now it would be $875.00. Can some body look up in their manual and
let
me know if this is a part and were it is located ? Thank you !!!!!
John
I have a AC problem on my 93 VR-4. Freon is good, checked all
other
items as listed but it still blows standard air. So I took it to an
AC
shop and they told me it was the AC control module and would
cost
$1200.00 to replace. I don't think so !!!!!! Does this sound true?
What
else can I check ? Where is the control module located ? Could it be
in
the climate control temp sensor ?
I am at a loss until I get a manual (
same problems as others, on order
from dealer and now they say they can't get
it anymore !) I will order
the CD for
now.
Thank you ! John
Sheehan
93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:47:22
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Window seal ripped
The passenger side rubber window seal, on the inside
of the door, seems to
have "ripped" off a little bit, so whenever i roll up
the window, the seal
gets caught and is dragged up by the window. Its
not damaging in any way,
but i like to drive with the windows down, and
after a year of it i cant take
it anymore! My local mitsu dealer wants 150$
to fix the problem. . .no thanx.
I thought perhaps i can do it by just
ordering the part i need, then do it
myself. SO my question is, if i remove
the inner door panel so that i can get
to the seal, then what must i do to
put the new seal on? Does it just pop
right in or should i really give the
job to Mitsu?
Any1 else have this problem?
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 21:03:08
-0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil in intake piping, help please!
Alright, is there anything
along the intake besides the turbo that can be
putting oil into the piping?
There is a post in the archive about someone
having oil in their piping but
it says he had a lot of oil pre rear turbo.
The car has a 60 day warenty from
dealership, still in affect hopefully
since I got the car on tuesday last
week.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 20:03:43
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AC
Problem #3
I looked at the CD version of the manual and there are a dozen
things that
need to be checked --- the control unit is located right below
the control
panel. You need the manual to do the checks, there is too much
info to
write it up in an email.
The check engine light can also show
problems and stores failure
codes.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "John Sheehan" <
Johns@KYSO.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 07, 2002 7:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: AC Problem #3
> I
guess nobody has any idea on what I should do! No responses!
> I now have
had a second place tell me the same thing They Think ? Only
> now it would
be $875.00. Can some body look up in their manual and let
> me know if
this is a part and were it is located ? Thank you !!!!! John
>
> I
have a AC problem on my 93 VR-4. Freon is good, checked all other
> items
as listed but it still blows standard air. So I took it to an AC
> shop
and they told me it was the AC control module and would cost
> $1200.00 to
replace. I don't think so !!!!!! Does this sound true? What
> else can I
check ? Where is the control module located ? Could it be in
> the climate
control temp sensor ?
> I am at a loss until I get a manual ( same
problems as others, on order
> from dealer and now they say they can't get
it anymore !) I will order
> the CD for
now.
>
Thank you ! John
Sheehan
>
93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 22:44:00
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Window seal ripped
> SO my question is, if i remove the inner
door panel so that i can get
> to the seal, then what must i do to put the
new seal on? Does it just pop
> right in or should i really give the job
to Mitsu?
> Any1 else have this problem?
I replaced that seal on my
car too. It is easy once you get the inner door
trim off. It
basically just pulls out and then you insert the new seal into
the little
protrusions in the door and reassemble. Piece of cake...
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 05:02:54
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: bad TOB cause slipping clutch?
Is this possible? I have a
bad throwout bearing apparently (it makes a
horrible racket except for when I
push the clutch in), and my RPS Stage III
does not seem to grip well at all
on launches. I can't slip it at all or it
will not grab and keep
pulling in 1st. I can do a quick lift on the clutch
at certain high
revs and it is fine, but I cannot do a ~3500 rpm slip-clutch
launch on it
like I could with the factory one (although I have more mods
now than
then). So anyways, the question remains the same as in
the
subject.
thanks for any replies,
Bill
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Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#834
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