Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, May
6 2002 Volume 01 : Number
833
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 5 May 2002 23:03:54 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Help! No guage lights!!
Eghad! today i installed my new radio
into the car, well everything works
fine except my guage faces dont light up
when i turn on the lgihts, and i
cant get them to turn on any other way,
heres what ive tried so far:
1) checked every fuse in the car, even the
ones in engine compartment
2) checked the wiring on the radio, everything
seems to work ok
3) checked the wiring on the dimmer switch, its getting
power and routing it
thru
4) i blew the fuse on my amp, i dont think that
is pertinant, but it might
be...
5) installed a different bolt on the
positive battery terminal, the original
one snapped when i unbolted
it!!!
6) I had power cut to the car for nearly 3 hours
with everything
there done (not in that order) for some reason the guage
faces dont light up,
making it real tough to drive at night.
a few other things that might help:
all other interior lights are
functioning, the ring around cigarette lighter
lights up, ring around
ignition lights up, driver side buttons light up,
radio lights up, various
lights in the guage cluster light up, such as brake
being on and things like
that.
HELP! im completly stumped here, could it
be that i blew every one of
the bulbs in the guages????
Donald
-
-93 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 08:59:51
+0200
From: "moreton" <
moreton@zim.co.zw>
Subject: Team3S:
Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO - Help!
Hey everyone,
As a new member
sending his first posting, please excuse any mistakes or
breachs of
etiquette.
I've just taken delivery of a Black 1992 Mitsubishi GTO VR4 ex
Japan, and it
won't go. Or rather it will start, but it runs for maybe 5-10
minutes before
the check engine light comes on and the engine dies
immediately. The car
runs fine before the light comes on, plenty of power,
smooth idling, will
restart with no probs etc. But after that light comes on
and the engine
dies, it will not restart until a few hours later.
My
initial thought was that it may be overheating and a temp sensor was
shutting
the engine down. However the temp guage sits squarely at the
halfway mark and
the radiator fan switches on and off in the normal
manner. To
prove/disprove my temp theory, I disconnected the radiator fan
and watched
the temp guage rise way past the halfway mark, but the engine
continued to
run fine, with no Check Engne light coming on, so bang goes
that
theory.
I've also tried replacing my battery with a new one, as I was
told that a
poor battery can give similar symptoms, but the problem has
persisted.
In desperation I've towed the car to the local Mitsu dealer,
but he told me
that his diagnostic equipment is not compatible with my car.
His equipment
apparently only works with the V6 Pajero, and V6 Colt Rodeo
engines.
There are only 2 GTO's in Zimbabwe - the oher belongs to a
friend of mine.
He is agreeable to swapping components to try to establish
which is the
faulty part. Can anyone suggest where to start (bearing in mind
that neither
of us are skilled mechanics, but willing to give it a
try)
I've run out of ideas and am appealing to the guys with the
experience for
any suggestions. Looking forward to hearing from you
all.
Tony in Zimbabwe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 02:09:09
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO - Help!
I'm, by no means, an expert on
these cars yet, but I had a similar problem
with another car. It turned
out the problem was with the ignition module
that the coil pack attaches
to. It would heat up and quit working. I'd let
the car cool off
for several minutes and all would be fine until it heated
back up.
If
that checks out ok, I'd check the ECU.
Good
luck,
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 02:00:04
-0600
From: "norm kami" <
normross@telusplanet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: MY TOY need help big time?
I have a1991 dodge Stealth R/T it
seams to sputter/hesitation when i punch
it off
the line or when drive.I
put in a new fuel filtter did not help at all.
Dose any one know how i can
get my car to go of the line faster.
The only mods i have done are 1 stall is
know around 2700or 2800 rpm
If i try to brack stand my car at will not spain
the tires at all and when
my rpm
are up and i take foot off the
brack the rpm drop . So off the line i stink
big time
PS I
live in Edmonton, Alberta Cananda know out hear knows a thing a but my
car so
any know some one let me know
Thanks Norm Ross
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 03:49:36
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best intake
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodriguez,
Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
>
Has anybody tried out the Altered Atmospere FIPK or have any pictures
of
it?
> -ROD
-
-------------------------------------->
The K&N FIPK is sold by
many performance shops, and what most members have
installed on their cars to
replace the stock airbox; (the Stillen system is
the second most popular
choice). Performance gain is 10-15 HP. An
explanation is on our
FAQ page on Aftermarket Air Filters, with pictures,
at:
www.Team3S.com/FAQkn.htmWe
had a discussion about where they are available (at the best price)
just
Saturday! Check the Archive Page and pull up the Digest for Sat,
05/02/02,
#831.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 07:35:26
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO - Help!
The first thing you need to do is find
out what that check engine light means.
You can read the engine code using a
voltmeter --- the manual tells how and
what to check, and what the codes
mean. Someone may have a write-up on
their web sit about how to do it, if not
I can look it up in my manual and give
you the information. It's just a
matter of grounding a pin on the diagnostic
connector and reading a pulsating
voltage on another pin.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "moreton" <
moreton@zim.co.zw>
To: "Team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 05, 2000 11:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO -
Help!
> Hey everyone,
>
> As a new member sending his
first posting, please excuse any mistakes or
> breachs of
etiquette.
>
> I've just taken delivery of a Black 1992 Mitsubishi
GTO VR4 ex Japan, and it
> won't go. Or rather it will start, but it runs
for maybe 5-10 minutes before
> the check engine light comes on and the
engine dies immediately. The car
> runs fine before the light comes on,
plenty of power, smooth idling, will
> restart with no probs etc. But
after that light comes on and the engine
> dies, it will not restart until
a few hours later.
>
> My initial thought was that it may be
overheating and a temp sensor was
> shutting the engine down. However the
temp guage sits squarely at the
> halfway mark and the radiator fan
switches on and off in the normal
> manner. To prove/disprove
my temp theory, I disconnected the radiator fan
> and watched the temp
guage rise way past the halfway mark, but the engine
> continued to run
fine, with no Check Engne light coming on, so bang goes
> that
theory.
>
> I've also tried replacing my battery with a new one, as
I was told that a
> poor battery can give similar symptoms, but the
problem has persisted.
>
> In desperation I've towed the car to the
local Mitsu dealer, but he told me
> that his diagnostic equipment is not
compatible with my car. His equipment
> apparently only works with the V6
Pajero, and V6 Colt Rodeo engines.
>
> There are only 2 GTO's in
Zimbabwe - the oher belongs to a friend of mine.
> He is agreeable to
swapping components to try to establish which is the
> faulty part. Can
anyone suggest where to start (bearing in mind that neither
> of us are
skilled mechanics, but willing to give it a try)
>
> I've run out
of ideas and am appealing to the guys with the experience for
> any
suggestions. Looking forward to hearing from you all.
>
> Tony in
Zimbabwe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 11:33:02
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR-4 for Sale?
I have a 94 vr-4 maroon
collor. 115,000k on the car, about 2k on an 1200hp rated motor by AAM. The motor
is pretty much broken in now. But I have some leagal problems and can't keep the
car at all. I have a lot of dept to pay and will actualy try to sell it in
couple of weeks. I put over $12,000 into the car at AAM alon I have the receipt.
They ut a different block in it. Here is some info:
I have a Stage 3 capable
of supporting over 1200 HP race preped motor from AAM; crowl Rods, JE Piston,
Ferraro Valves, Stage 3 proting&Polishing to the heads, Boared Block, Gutted
Precats, RPS Max Clutch "Stage 3", AVC-R Boost Controller set to 14-17psi, and
an intake.
I have a pioneer MP3 player, new tires new brakes RS4, Car has 2
minor issues, one it has a crack in the flex section and exhaust come out of
there if you are reving the thing at idle. Not an issue for me since I was going
to change that out with a new exhaust. 2nd issues is because of the Stage 3
cluts the bearings some times will makes a noise for a bout .5 sec when under
load. Not noticible and not harmfull.
Of course I have a boost gauge and
an A/F meter gauge and the interior is partly done up in red.
If you want
pictures I will send them to you.
Asking $23,000 the motor & the work
at AAM and the boost controller is $13,000 alone.
Roman G.
Desert
Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
wrote:
>I have a buyer for a VR-4. Anyone selling please email me off
list to
>provide details so that I can try to help out both him and a list
member at
>the same time...
>
>--
>Paul/.
>95
black 3000GT VR-4
>98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
>formerly
reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 10:52:29
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: MidAmerica Report
I ran an open track event at Midamerica
Motorplex this past weekend.
Here's a report. My instructor was Ted
Schwartz. Ted showed me how to do what Chuck Willis has been talking about. I
drove with Chuck last year at Heartland Park and watched him do this stuff,
without realizing what the technique was. You gotta have somebody in the right
seat yelling at you before you believe that this actually works. I'm sure some
of the other racers, like Chuck, Geoff and John Christian, will understand this,
and may be able to explain it better.
____________________
It all
started cuz I asked Ted to help me with my braking. I have a tendency to stand
on the brakes, boil the fluid, and bounce off the ABS. Ted showed me how to use
the brakes -- get on get off. After the first two sessions, bleeding out the
cooked Motul 600, installing brake ducts, and learning what Ted was teaching me,
no more brake problems.
The problem with get-on-get-off, however, is that it
does not slow thc car very much. So Ted showed me how to carry momentum through
the corners. Instructors have fancy words for all this, but it boils down to:
Fast In, Fast Out.
I had no idea my car could carry so much speed
through corners. Ted is a talker: "Lift, brake on brake off turn in HERE flat on
the gas straight line those corners, now straight line brake turn in stay out
stay out ez through here it tightens turn in look down track find that out
marker now hit it." Whee doggies!
I was turning into corners WAY up
track, nailing the throttle, and the car would track through like it was on
RAILS!! Problem is, this technique is so unnatural and counter to the
classic line (Slow in, fast out), that it's scary. You have to BELIEVE that
nailing the throttle will make the car stick, when everything you ever knew
about driving tells you NO WAY NO WAY! Talk about being
committed!
Sometimes I'd lose confidence in my ability to make it
through, bang on the brakes hard to drop the entry speed, and then I'd get all
crossed up. I went off track four times this weekend, not always because my
brakes faded (two for brakes, two screwups).
Chief instructor Jeff Lacina
threatened to get me a seed cap, and asked if I wouldn't mind putting an
attachment on the car. He figured that if I am going to spend so much time off
track, I should do some plowing or seeding while I am out there.
As I
tried to explain to all the folks who laughed at me so much ("It's very
entertaining following you"), I'd much rather drive straight off track than try
all sorts of heroic save-the-car stuff to try to stay on pavement. Besides,
Midwest Motorplex is not quite finished, and there are some truly dangerous
spots at corner exits where concrete is still being poured.
I have a
long way to go with this new technique. They combined Group 4 and Instructors,
so I had to run with the Big Boys. As you would expect, they all drive like
that. Where is this technique explained in the driving books? I'm not sure it
can be explained. You need Terrible Ted talking you through to believe that it
really works and the car will really stick.
I learned that if I turned
the boost up to 12 psi, I could stay with most of the Big Boys (Group 4 and
instructors were mostly Cobra SVTs, Cobra Rs and Corvette Z06es and C5s, almost
all of them trailer queens, with lots of permanent numbers and sponsor
decals.)
Flying Freddie Fetzer and his Cobra R tended to run me
down consistently, and most of the instructors had me by an easy two seconds a
lap under stock boost. The extra boost got me back the two seconds, so I could
stay with them (although they did run me down eventually, the boost kept them at
bay for a while). I thought about cranking it to 15 psi just to see if I could
run with some of the faster cars (it's frustrating to see a Z06 just walk away
from you down a straight, especially after staying with him for half a lap).
But, since I was 300 miles from home with no trailer, basically uncomfortable
with this new driving technique, and the car started to heat up under increased
boost, I decided that discretion was in order.
One thing about fast in
fast out -- boy does it EAT front tires! The new Yoko 032s were not only
plumb wore down, you could see the tread pattern being eaten away right to left
across the tire at a 45 deg angle (lots of right handers at MidAmerica). For the
first time, I did not wear down the outer shoulders -- instead, the tires were
wearing INSIDE! The corner edges were pristine, while 2/3 of the inner tire were
worn. I may have to reduce the camber from -3 deg back to stock to get the outer
edges back into the ball game.
Midwest Motorplex is very friendly for our
cars. It's all 3rd and 4th gear stuff, so 2nd gens don't overheat under stock
boost. You need heavy braking only two or three times a lap, so pads last
longer. There are some turns where the AWD really helps, because we can carry
lots of speed under full power, whilst the RWD cars are feathering their way
through.
It was a good weekend. Learned a lot.
And nobody better
say that a 3000GT is full of shit. I'll have you know that I installed 3 in. RV
sewer pipe as brake ducts.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 13:20:56
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Air/Fuel ratio monitor
Hello all, I recently purchased and
installed an Auto Meter air/fuel ratio
monitor to help tune my car. I dont
currently have access to a data logger
so this is all I have to work with.
Anyhow it has four red led's (.050 to
.249v) for lean, ten yellow
(.250-.749) for normal, and six green
(.750-1.000v) for rich. I am trying to
tune it w/ a VPC and GCC from hks and
I can get it to sweep lean to rich
(stoich closed loop PCM) sometimes at
idle and cruising when I let off the
gas. When I try to maintain a constant
speed it is reading lean 2 bars from
completely lean and w/ only 1/16 of
throttle applied it goes to completely
rich! off the charts, please advise!
Thank
you,
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 10:33:01
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: MidAmerica Report
Truly a great message
Rich,
I found out about the same technique with go-karts (racing ones of
course).
It is so strange that I still don't know if I have the strength of
will to
do it with my VR,
Rick
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 06, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: 3S-Racers: MidAmerica
Report
> I ran an open track event at Midamerica Motorplex this past
weekend.
> Here's a report. My instructor was Ted Schwartz. Ted showed me
how to do
what Chuck Willis has been talking about. I drove with Chuck last
year at
Heartland Park and watched him do this stuff, without realizing what
the
technique was. You gotta have somebody in the right seat yelling at
you
before you believe that this actually works. I'm sure some of the
other
racers, like Chuck, Geoff and John Christian, will understand this, and
may
be able to explain it better.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 12:44:41
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MidAmerica Report
Good job, Rich!
Michael couldn't
make the event - he was trying to drive to Miami for his
wedding and broke
down (in the Explorer) at the Missouri line. They said
they drove past
the Motorplex, but didn't see your VR4 on the track. Now I
know why -
it was either a blur or off-track!
I am wearing my Yokos in the central
part of the tire instead of exclusively
on the outside edges. I am
going to drop the cold pressure two psi in the
front to see if it
helps. I think basically we are just going to have to
live with
accellerated tire wear when going fast. I'd be curious to know
the size
and lot number (stamped on the side of your tires). My numbers
indicate
I got a hold of a bad set of Yokos last year, but the latest ones
have been
good. I am running 255R40Z17 (or are they W?).
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:22:47
-0700
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Atlanta
I'll be relocating from Portland, OR to Atlanta this
month, and am wondering
how the 3S scene is there. Are there many
owners int the area? Good parts
and service shops? Any special
events?
Any recommendations or warnings for having my car transported
there? I
really regret that I won't have enough time to drive it
there!
Thanks!
Michael
92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:19:12
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MidAmerica Report
Very interesting :) I have been teached a
long time that the slowest speed
of the car is just before you go into the
curve and then increase speed
through the apex to have the fastest speed on
the outside then. With this
style I was always faster than the RWD cars as
they had to play with the gas
to prevent oversteering while the 3K stayed on
the rails. But what you're
saying sounds like the slowest speed is at the
apex or just before that,
right ? I hope to go back to Monza or Le Castelet
but there are not many
closed events for clubs.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>;
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 06, 2002 7:44 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: MidAmerica
Report
> Good job, Rich!
>
> Michael couldn't make the
event - he was trying to drive to Miami for his
> wedding and broke down
(in the Explorer) at the Missouri line. They said
> they drove past
the Motorplex, but didn't see your VR4 on the track. Now
I
> know
why - it was either a blur or off-track!
>
> I am wearing my Yokos
in the central part of the tire instead of
exclusively
> on the outside
edges. I am going to drop the cold pressure two psi in the
> front
to see if it helps. I think basically we are just going to have to
>
live with accellerated tire wear when going fast. I'd be curious to
know
> the size and lot number (stamped on the side of your tires).
My numbers
> indicate I got a hold of a bad set of Yokos last year, but
the latest ones
> have been good. I am running 255R40Z17 (or are
they W?).
>
> Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 13:39:13
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: MidAmerica Report
>I found out about the
same technique with go-karts (racing ones of course).
>It is so strange
that I still don't know if I have the strength of will to
>do it with my
VR,
>Rick
It is very scary. With anything up to this point, you
almost always have a way out. Last minute braking or lifting in the corner
usually works. Here, you are totally committed.
Rich.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 14:14:06
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: MidAmerica Report
>I am wearing my Yokos in
the central part of the tire instead of exclusively
>on the outside
edges. I am going to drop the cold pressure two psi in the
>front to
see if it helps. I think basically we are just going to have
to
>live with accellerated tire wear when going fast.
Veddy
interesting that we would have the same wear problem, and you are running stock
camber (I am -3). So maybe it's NOT the camber. I had thought about
dropping tire pressure too. I was running 40/38 psi cold. Back tires wore
perfectly.
Whaddaya think causes it? Are we sliding the fronts now? Not
understeering off (which rolls the tires under), but actually SLIDING those
suckers under power? Could it be wheelspin? Sorta like a reverse power
oversteer?
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:29:10
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MVIC?
The idea is to match the runner length to the intake
demand,
long is good for low end and perhaps gas mileage. It appears to be
related to keeping the
intake airflow moving, tuned to how often and how
much each valve opening gulps.
Kind of like exhaust tuning but on the
intake.
The HP increase may not be much but it likely
enhances a good part of the entire curve.
At maximize power, I would
tend to think it mostly gets in the way, but very little.
Some tests with
the butterflies removed would verify whether it helps only emission and low end,
or the higher power band too. It activates at about 3000rpm and I think is
fully open by 4000 or 4500 rpm. The turbo's have more differential into the
intake ports so don't need the help.
If I recall, BMW now has a 3 way
variable intake control, so they're putting a lot of effort in if it's just
smoke and mirrors.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, May
03, 2002 6:48 PM
To:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com; 'Stealth
List'
Subject: RE: Team3S: MVIC?
That's it... in the n/a
3000gt's which also have it, it simply switches
from a longer runner to a
shorter runner... That's it... There are 6
butterflies, or small
throttle body type plates and they all move at the
same time to create this
effect by opening or closing the shortened
path...
I can send ya pics
of the assembly in pieces if you would like...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Friday, May
03, 2002 7:50 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: MVIC?
Hey guys quick question
What does MVIC do exactly? i
know long and short intake runners. . but
its a
technology that i dont
hear bout often. on the 2003 Eclipse GTS it adds
only
5 HP. can any1
explain in greater detail what it does exactly? thanx
Mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:48:02
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: First Trip to the Drag Strip
You can spin the turbo's faster to
compensate for lower desity, but you can't open the valves more to compensate,
so I think the turbo's do have the advantage. Plus, since they usually have more
exhaust restriction (for the ammount of exhaust) the lower pressure there
probably helps them more than an NA too.
My 2
cents,
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd
D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 10:46
PM
To: 'Team 3s '
Subject: Re: Team3S: First Trip to the Drag
Strip
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
To:
"'Team 3s '" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 04, 2002 12:30 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: First Trip to the Drag
Strip
> If you're wiling to so listen to an
engineer....
>
> At higher elevations, air is less dense, i.e less
air molecules per a
given
> volume, specifically oxygen. Engine
power is a function of how much fuel
> can be combusted in the cylinder.
Of course, that depends on the amount of
> air molecules available to
combust it. So, the less air molecules you get
> into the cylinder, the
less fuel that is combusted, and less power. Boost
> pressure doesn't
matter, as all that means is that the turbos are
"pumping"
> high
pressure, lower-oxygen air into the cylinder. Naturally, a NA
engine
> will get even less air because it doesn't have the turbo to
"pump" in all
> that extra air a Turbo engine gets. Makes sense? Gave it
my best stab, at
> least from a theory standpoint.
>
>
-ROD
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
But
isn't that always the case to some extent regardless of
elevation? Even
at sea level, air can be varied in density simply
due to ambient
temps.
The question that has been debated is whether NAs suffer
more
(as a percentage of their sea level HP for instance)
versus turbo
charged.
Should the same correction factor be applied
evenly?
Additional thoughts?
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 15:51:46
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MidAmerica Report
A>But what you're
>saying sounds
like the slowest speed is at the apex or just before that,
>right ?
The slowest speed is when you lift off the brake (we're talking high
speed corners, not tight twisty bits or slaloms or hairpins or decreasing radius
turns).
After lifting off the brake, turn in and immediately nail the
gas. On some turns, this might be 30-40 yards BEFORE the apex, so you really
scream through the apex at full bore, foot to the floor, turbos pulling, and the
AWD clawing for traction. It is truly amazing how the car sticks. It is also
very scary. You need an instructor to show you how to do it right.
Also,
if you lose faith in the middle of a turn, there is no escape. Let off the gas,
and you go off track immediately. You must have faith that the AWD will pull you
through. Keep the hammer down!
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 14:22:38
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: MidAmerica Report
I dunno. I am wearing
the tires this way over several events. The primary
wear is of course
on the fronts, and most on the right front (outside) tire
on our left turning
track. I was running 40/38 cold for many events. Do you
hear noise from
the tires in the turns? I am trying to avoid tire squeal,
because I
consider this evidence that the tires are sliding instead
of
rolling.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 2:14
PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: MidAmerica Report
>
> Veddy
interesting that we would have the same wear problem, and you are
>
running stock camber (I am -3). So maybe it's NOT the camber. I
had
> thought about dropping tire pressure too. I was running 40/38 psi
cold.
> Back tires wore perfectly.
>
> Whaddaya think causes
it? Are we sliding the fronts now? Not understeering
> off (which rolls
the tires under), but actually SLIDING those suckers
> under power? Could
it be wheelspin? Sorta like a reverse power oversteer?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 17:35:23
-0400
From: "Tony Greene" <
TonithGren22@msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: parts
i need a good site where i can find racing parts for my 91
3000GT VR-4!
PLEAse HElp!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:12:47
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wanted: stock front calipers
I need a pair of stock 1st gen front
calipers. If any of you with upgraded
brakes would like to sell me your
old ones then please email me off the
list. Thanks.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:52:21
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: hood temp
The hardware cloth lets more air into the wheel
wells which helps cool the
brakes, IMHO. I have it on three
cars.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Zach Sauerman [SMTP:axemaddock@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01,
2002 3:06 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: hood temp
>
> Okay, so the debate still goes on. I
have made the decision that I am
> going
> to leave my rear hood
seal on this summer. NASCAR does breathe from that
> area, so there is
positive pressure. I had assuemd that air would flow
> out,
> but
if the string goes into the hood, that settles it. I don't think we
> want
> air going that way. I will let the work the Mitsu engineers did with
wind
> tunnels alone in that department.
> But how about removing
those splash guards behind the intercoolers? I had
> said a lot of heat
was spilling out of there, but that wasn't my original
> intent on doing
that. I imagined the benefit of hardware cloth as being a
> way to get
air through the intercoolers and on its way instead of milling
> around
waiting to get out through those six slits in the splash guard. The
>
> bad side effects of this mod is that on the right side the ABS computer
is
>
> exposed to water and dirt. On the left there isn't anything
critical that
> couldn't get dirty. I am going to fashion a cover for the
ABS computer
> this
> summer when I remove the splash guards
again.
> Are there any other thoughts on this mod?
>
> Zach
Sauerman
> '94 Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:39:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SynLube
Let's not forget pH. Oil becomes corrosive over
time from the oxidation of
hydrocarbons into carboxylic acids. For this
process to be absent, SynLube
would have to be based on some other chemical,
not hydrocarbons. What's the
chemical composition, or is that a
secret?
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 8:59
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SynLube
>
> The big problem with oil is
contamination from carbon, unburned fuel,
> water, metal
> etc.etc.
--- you can't stop an internal combustion engine from being
> dirty.
Propane
> engines are much cleaner but I still don't see it being kept
clean for
> 50,000 miles.
> What did they have to say about filter
changes ???
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:21:11
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Window seal ripped
The passenger side rubber window seal, on the inside
of the door, seems to
have "ripped" off a little bit, so whenever i roll up
the window, the seal
gets caught and is dragged up by the window. Its
not damaging in any way,
but i like to drive with the windows down, and
after a year of it i cant take
it anymore! My local mitsu dealer wants 150$
to fix the problem. . .no thanx.
I thought perhaps i can do it by just
ordering the part i need, then do it
myself. SO my question is, if i remove
the inner door panel so that i can get
to the seal, then what must i do to
put the new seal on? Does it just pop
right in or should i really give the
job to Mitsu?
Any1 else have this problem?
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:08:07
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Any interest in stock 17' Chrome wheels
Considering they didn't
spend a penny for my college tuition since I got a
full scholarship, my folks
are trying to make amends by giving me a senior
"gift". I asked them for a
new set of wheel and tires for my '94 VR-4. It
would be pretty much pointless
to keep the stock wheels around. I just
wanted to know if any you 1G or N/A
people are interested in these. THey are
in decent shape for being 8 yrs
old. 1 had a really small portion of the
chrome peel off. The tires
have about 25-30% tread left. I'm not asking a
fortune for these, just a
decent amount to offset the price of the new ones
so that I can use the extra
cash for other mods. Email me an offer off the
list if interested.
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 21:23:30
-0600
From: "Stephen H. Simonds" <
simonds@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Any interest in stock 17' Chrome wheels
Rod,I would be interested in the
wheels if they will fit a '94 Dodge
Stealth Twin Turbo AWD. I am
looking for a set of '94 or newer wheels
to use as a second set for racing
tires (Autocross). Are they 17x8.5?
And what would you be asking for
them. All I ask is that they are
streight and not cracked. dings
and blemishes don't matter.
I have a set of '93 17x8.5 rims that will not
fit on my '94. Anyone
need these? I'll let them go for $75 each
plus shipping.
"Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" wrote:
>
>
Considering they didn't spend a penny for my college tuition since I got
a
> full scholarship, my folks are trying to make amends by giving me a
senior
> "gift". I asked them for a new set of wheel and tires for my '94
VR-4. It
> would be pretty much pointless to keep the stock wheels around.
I just
> wanted to know if any you 1G or N/A people are interested in
these. THey are
> in decent shape for being 8 yrs old. 1 had a
really small portion of the
> chrome peel off. The tires have about 25-30%
tread left. I'm not asking a
> fortune for these, just a decent amount to
offset the price of the new ones
> so that I can use the extra cash for
other mods. Email me an offer off the
> list if interested.
>
> -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:34:01
-0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
The Lotek triple
gage pod, needs some more work, I saw a car with it
at the East coast
gathering and the gauge orientation is screwed up.
The gauges are so
close together vertically that you can not see the
top 1/3 of the back 2
gages.
Lotek said its a bad windshield angle so tough luck.
I
would avoid the Lotek Single gage pod just install a Autometer dual
gage pod
and a second single gage pod and acutuallty be able to read
your
gages.
John Monnin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:36:42
-0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO - Help!
Can a bad O2 sensor cause
this? Just a thought.
Have you checked the cable on the MAS? It
might have fallen off.
Good Luck
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
moreton@zim.co.zw>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 06, 2002 8:35 AM
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Newbie with a Dead 92 GTO -
Help!
> The first thing you need to do is find out what that check
engine light
means.
> You can read the engine code using a voltmeter
--- the manual tells how
and
> what to check, and what the codes mean.
Someone may have a write-up on
> their web sit about how to do it, if not
I can look it up in my manual and
give
> you the information. It's just
a matter of grounding a pin on the
diagnostic
> connector and reading a
pulsating voltage on another
pin.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ==================================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "moreton" <
moreton@zim.co.zw>
> To: "Team3s"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 11:59 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Newbie with a Dead
92 GTO - Help!
>
> > Hey everyone,
> >
> > As a
new member sending his first posting, please excuse any mistakes or
> >
breachs of etiquette.
> >
> > I've just taken delivery of a
Black 1992 Mitsubishi GTO VR4 ex Japan,
and it
> > won't go. Or
rather it will start, but it runs for maybe 5-10 minutes
before
> >
the check engine light comes on and the engine dies immediately. The car
>
> runs fine before the light comes on, plenty of power, smooth
idling,
will
> > restart with no probs etc. But after that light
comes on and the engine
> > dies, it will not restart until a few hours
later.
> >
> > My initial thought was that it may be
overheating and a temp sensor was
> > shutting the engine down. However
the temp guage sits squarely at the
> > halfway mark and the radiator
fan switches on and off in the normal
> > manner. To
prove/disprove my temp theory, I disconnected the radiator
fan
> >
and watched the temp guage rise way past the halfway mark, but
the
engine
> > continued to run fine, with no Check Engne light
coming on, so bang goes
> > that theory.
> >
> > I've
also tried replacing my battery with a new one, as I was told that
a
>
> poor battery can give similar symptoms, but the problem has
persisted.
> >
> > In desperation I've towed the car to the
local Mitsu dealer, but he told
me
> > that his diagnostic equipment
is not compatible with my car. His
equipment
> > apparently only
works with the V6 Pajero, and V6 Colt Rodeo engines.
> >
> >
There are only 2 GTO's in Zimbabwe - the oher belongs to a friend
of
mine.
> > He is agreeable to swapping components to try to
establish which is the
> > faulty part. Can anyone suggest where to
start (bearing in mind that
neither
> > of us are skilled mechanics,
but willing to give it a try)
> >
> > I've run out of ideas
and am appealing to the guys with the experience
for
> > any
suggestions. Looking forward to hearing from you all.
> >
> >
Tony in Zimbabwe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 22:59:43
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work....
John -- I have
not seen a picture yet of this gauge pod (Lotek) and
missed East Coast
because of a track event at Pocono.
What is the problem with the triple
gauge pod. It doesn't come
pre-filled with gauges does it? If not
then couldn't the driver orient
the gauges so that the top 1/3 is the useless
part (usually between 5
o'clock and 7 o'clock on the gauge where the name and
units are listed)?
For example, I have my Autometer Z-Series boost gauge
mounted all out of
whack but I know what the units are and don't need to see
the
manufacturer's name. I have 0 psi at 12 o'clock (top dead center)
and
anything to the right is boost and anything to the left is vacuum.
No
sense orienting it how the words are cuz at a quick glance on the
track
you don't want to have to remember that at the 1 o'clock position is
the
0 psi mark.
Same with water temps, oil temps, pressures, etc. when
mounted anywhere
else. 12 o'clock is always "normal operating
parameter" so anything to
the right on a quick glance tells you that gauge is
high or hot and
anything to the left is low or cold.
Agree that some
gauges do not lend well to this. Maybe an Air/Fuel
gauge that might
want to be more rich than in the middle or dual EGT
gauges that might need
oriented vertically. You see my point though.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: John Monnin
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002
22:34
The Lotek triple gage pod, needs some more work, I saw a car
with it
at the East coast gathering and the gauge orientation is screwed
up.
The gauges are so close together vertically that you can not see
the
top 1/3 of the back 2 gages.
Lotek said its a bad windshield
angle so tough luck.
I would avoid the Lotek Single gage pod just install
a Autometer dual
gage pod and a second single gage pod and acutuallty be
able to read
your gages.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 21:14:26
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wanted, set of stock 1st gen front calipers
I need a pair of
stock 1st gen front calipers. I can buy them from M&S for
$90 each
but I would rather buy it from another list member. If any of you
with
upgraded brakes would like to sell me your old ones then please email
me off
the list. I live in Sacramento CA. If you are in Northern CA,
that
is a plus but I will pay for shipping if need be.
Thanks.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 01:18:48
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wanted, set of stock 1st gen front calipers
Would you be
interested in upgrading from first gen to second gen
calipers? If not
then maybe someone else on the list can use them. But
that set of
second gen wheels running around here and upgrade to second
gen calipers
too. =)
Although $90 is a heck of a bargain it seems for the first
gen set.
Can a Stealth wear 3000GT calipers and vice versa? If so
then I know
Philip was waiting for dust seals for his stock front calipers
after the
Gingerman track trick. I don't want to part these out but if
I have to
then let me know.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: dakken
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 00:14
I
need a pair of stock 1st gen front calipers. I can buy them from
M&S
for
$90 each but I would rather buy it from another list
member. If any of
you
with upgraded brakes would like to sell me
your old ones then please
email
me off the list. I live in
Sacramento CA. If you are in Northern CA,
that
is a plus but I will
pay for shipping if need be. Thanks.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#833
***************************************