Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, May 2
2002 Volume 01 : Number
829
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 1 May 2002 12:53:24 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SynLube
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: "Damon
Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 01, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SynLube
> My
2 cents. All the reading and research I've personally read says that
>
putting PTFE into your engine can do nothing good. Your best bet is a
>
high-quality full synthetic oil. No Teflon, no additives,
nuthin...
>
> What synthetic doesn't do that dino oil does is
breakdown, coke and
> deteriorate at a rapid rate due to the contaminants
produced by the
internal
> combustion engine. With synthetic oil, you
shouldn't need a turbo timer
> because the synthetic oils will not coke up
inside your turbo feed lines
> when they are at super hot temperatures
after a hard run.
>
> Look at what jet aircraft use for their oil.
That will tell you a lot
about
> what would be similarly beneficial for
our cars. Jet engine rebuild is
> expensive and failure while under use is
not acceptable. Full synthetic
oils
> in all commercial jets, if I'm
not terribly mistaken.
>
> Fram has a oil filter with PTFE
impregnated into it. Why would anybody
even
> think of buying this
thing?
>
> Slick 50, ProLong, all the other snake oils are just
that. Stay away.
>
> However, life expectancy of high quality
synthetic oils is much higher
than
> most people give credit to. Same
with filters. There are test kits
available
> so that you can submit a
sample of your oil and have it tested for it
> efficiency. If it falls
below a certain level of contamination, then you
are
> notified and
should change the oil ASAP. But I have sent in oil that has
> over 10,000
miles on it without showing any reason to change on the
analysis
> that
came back. Others have reported getting back analysis results after
>
50,000 miles showing very little breakdown if any.
>
> I find myself
falling back into the old routines though of starting to
feel
> like I
need to change it between 3-5K miles. And I've been doing some
>
experimenting with viscosities so that has also entailed more frequent
>
changes. 0W30 seems too light, a bit too much ticking for my taste.
10W30
> seems just right. I'm dying to try some 20W50 or 15W50 next for
the
summer,
> even though these aren't recommended viscosities for the
VR-4. I don't see
> how it could hurt for summer. Cold starts in the
winter would be out of
the
> question but it seems to me that with a
hotter running engine that a
higher
> viscosity oil would be a good
thing.
>
> About the only thing I have been scheming to do that I
haven't tried is
> wrapping the oil filter with a magnet to pull any
metallic particles out
> toward the canister hopefully trapping them
there. Anybody tried the
magnet
> on the oil filter trick before that
can pass along antic dotes?
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I
agree with much of this. While I don't change my oil quiet as
often as
Jeff :) - I rarely exceed 3-4K miles and always use
full
synthetic.
Mitsu does list higher viscosities in the owner's
manual!
20W -20 20w-40 for 0 degrees F (32C) and
up
for turbo models.
Same for non turbos except 20W-50 is added as
well
as 10w - 40/50 even for colder temps.
Full synthetic 20w-50 will
flow better than conventional
so I don't have a problem using that in higher
temps.
I've tried the magnet on the filter - ran it for a couple of
years
but never cut open the filter. Read a report about the flow
of
oil through the filter would be too fast for it to even work so
I
question whether it is really effective or not.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 11:58:46
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SynLube
Sorry to hear you are having a bad day.
on 5/1/02
11:43 AM, Geoff Mohler at
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com
scribbled:
>> What synthetic doesn't do that dino oil does is
breakdown, coke and
>> deteriorate at a rapid rate due to the
contaminants produced by the internal
>> combustion engine. With
synthetic oil, you shouldn't need a turbo timer
>> because the
synthetic oils will not coke up inside your turbo feed lines
>> when
they are at super hot temperatures after a hard run.
> ---
> Thats
not exactly true. ATTimer or a small cooldown period is still very
>
important. Not all synthetic oils are created equally..some OTC
synths
> evaporate and ash as bad as good natural oils.
You are
precisely right in that not all synthetic oils are created equal.
Don't get
me started on that one cause I can tell you all about how the
formula for
Mobil 1 was changed since its inception so that Chevy, Porsche
and other auto
manufacturers who supply Mobil 1 from the factory would agree
to do so. Mobil
had to decrease their quality by upping the phosphorus
content so that SOME
wear would occur. Otherwise, the auto manufacturers
would sell you one car
that would end up lasting you for the rest of your
life and your children's
lives. It is shi**y oil that wears out car engines.
You could change your
.99¢/qt dino oil every 500 miles and still end up with
more wear than by
using high quality synthetic for 10,000 miles without a
change. Planned
obsolescence anyone?
The synthetics I am referring to survive extremely
well under the heat
stresses caused by the turbos. I usually sit for a few
seconds (up to 30)
when I pull in to a parking spot mostly just to finish
listening to a song,
turn off all accessories and finish my
blunt.;-)<g>
>
>> Look at what jet aircraft use for
their oil. That will tell you a lot about
>> what would be similarly
beneficial for our cars. Jet engine rebuild is
>> expensive and failure
while under use is not acceptable. Full synthetic oils
>> in all
commercial jets, if I'm not terribly mistaken.
> ---
> Until I see
someone pouring Mobil-1 into thier jet fighter they picked up
> at the
local Kragen, im gonna ignore that last paragraph.
I didn't say anything
about jet fighters but commercial airliners. The
government has pretty good
stuff I'm sure but they aren't going to get sued
into oblivion when a pilot
drives into the ground because they lost oil
pressure. A commercial airliner
has much, much more at risk and I know that
most of the airlines are using
the same synthetic oil in their commercial
planes. So ignore the last
paragraph and the truth if you so desire.
Ignorance is quite
blissful.
>
>> Fram has a oil filter with PTFE impregnated
into it. Why would anybody even
>> think of buying this thing?
>
---
> For the same reason you draw the simple conclusion that -all-
synthetics
> are as good as the synthetics the military uses in
jets. Lack of study
> and/or ignorance.
>
> "It doesnt
stick in my pan..so in my motor...."
>
> Its the same
leap-of-faith.
Seems like a leap to the crack pipe to me. Putting any
kind of solid
particulate material into the engine, either in the oil itself,
as an
additive or through decomposition of the filtration material all
seem
equally "snake oil-like".
Come on back with us Geoff! Nothing was
said about ALL synthetics - I was
simply avoiding the brand name disputes
since most listers seem to like
Mobil 1 and at least 1 out of 5 surveyed
dentists disagree...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 14:29:30
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Propane or LPG bi-fuel alternative
So if one were to run propane
in his/her car and turn up the boost say
17-20psi are larger injectors still
needed? If so what if vpc and gcc are
already present to tune the mixture
rich/lean etc. are larger injecors still
needed (if so
why?)
>From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>To:
team3s@team3s.com>Subject: RE:
Team3S: Propane or LPG bi-fuel alternative
>Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 09:51:25
-0700
>
>My understanding is that the big benefit from the propane
injection is the
>ability to turn up the boost without knock.
Propane accomplishes this in
>two ways. First, it is stored as a
liquid at REALLY high pressures, and
>thanks to Boyle's law, when it
sprays into the intake it will be a gas at
>extremely low temps (-60
claims Matt Monett). This is similar to the
>benefits of water
injection - lower the intake temperature. A lower temp
>air/fuel
charge is a denser air/fuel charge, meaning that at a given boost
>level
there is more air/fuel to combust in the cylinder, and thus
more
>power. Remember, .5L at 15PSI and 100C is MORE air/fuel than
.5L at 15PSI
>and 200C. The higher octane rating of propane
(combined with the lower
>intake temperatures) allow you to turn up the
boost without getting knock.
>This will once again put more air/fuel in
the cylinder.
>
>Admitedly, the propane will displace some of the
air, but the overall
>effect
>should be more power, and antecdotal
evidence shows this to be the case.
>
>- Brian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 14:36:50
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Propane or LPG bi-fuel alternative
Most of the engines run at
MBT timing already (mean best torque), which
means that advancing timing any
further won't increase the horsepower.
Do not forget that gasoline
provides some cooling too when it evaporates.
To get a horsepower comparable
to the 110 octane, you need to supply 10%
more fuel (and air). The boost
pressure will be the same. This means that
the air/fuel charge has to be so
much cooler that it is 10% more dense.
That is assuming that the
stoichometric ratio for propane is the same. I am
not sure about that. For
methanol, for
example, it is around 12 - 13 as opposed to the gasoline's
14.7. This
helps too.
I would like to see some more anecdotal and real
evidence. Real evidence
is preferred.
Philip
>...but the
overall effect
>should be more power, and antecdotal evidence shows this
to be the case.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 13:48:18
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need 60mm single gauge pod
I contacted Dennis at Lo-Tek and he has stated
the the Lo-Tek 3000GT/STealth
triple gauge pod (what I have) will not fit a
60mm gauge modified or not.
I have been looking around for a 60mm single
gauge pod to add to my
currently installed Autometer dual gauge pod. I
have not had any luck
finding one though as Autometer does not make
them.
I'd prefer not to mount the gauge to my dash at all. Anyone
know where I
can find a 60mm (2 5/8") single gauge
pod?
TIA
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 20:55:00
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N Filtercharger for Eclipse out of production
I recently
runned out of stock of the Eclipse Filterchargers (the non-street
legal cheap
filter) and wahted to order a bunch of them. K&N now told me
that it's
not in production anymore and has been replaced by the already
known FIPK ...
on a higher price of course ! Summit sells it for around $112
compared to the
$165.00 for our FIPK.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 15:10:44
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Propane or LPG bi-fuel alternative
To get a horsepower
comparable to the 110 octane, you need to supply 10%
more fuel (and air). The
boost pressure will be the same. This means that
the air/fuel charge has to
be so much cooler that it is 10% more dense.
PV = mRT
To make m go
up by 10%, you need to have T lover by 10%. A good FMIC
supplies air that is
at 10-15 degrees F above the ambient. That means that
if it is +70 F outside,
the after intercooler temperature will be 85F
(302K) and the propane-air
mixture should be at (302 * 0.9 = 272K) or 30F.
If heat capacities of air
and propane are similar, and you are injecting
propane that is at -60F
(222K), the resulting mixture will be at only (222
* 1/14.7 + 302 * 13.7/14.7
= 297K) or 74 F. Not cold enough.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 12:19:39
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Propane or LPG bi-fuel alternative
We have people talking two different
topics here --- one is the use of propane
as an alternative fuel and the
other is it's use as a supplement to gasoline, e.g.
injected into the
manifold to delay the onset of knock.
I've done some superficial checking
into it's use as a fuel and find lots of
compelling reasons for switching to
propane --- high octane, relatively cheap,
very clean burning, tax brakes in
some areas. The downside is fuel storage
[ heavy tanks ], fuel availability,
cold weather heating required.
I've also seen very little info on the use
of propane in high output engines. It
seems that it's common in trucks and
small cars but I found very little in the
way of high HP conversions [ Dave
Blacks friend may be an exception ].
As to the use of propane to reduce
knock that seems to be the latest hot button
for boost in excess of 20# on
pump gas. If true sign me up --- much info on the
net but almost all related
to turbo diesel trucks and virtually non on use in turbo
cars --- Matt Monet,
and others, are quickly designing and selling kits for $500
and up. At this
point most of the data is anecdotal [ as usual with tuner stuff ].
Ecool [
Matts Supra owning sidekick ] makes claims for great improvements in
his ¼
mile times. 'BUT' he also claims to have had fuel problems before
the
addition of propane injection. Maybe all he did was resolve a lean
condition with
the addition of another fuel source. On this one, time will
tell --- within a couple
of months there will be dozens of cars out there
with propane injection.
BTW the first shot out of the regulator will not
be at -60º unless you purge the
system as you would nos. There are also
claims of propane being 140 octane,
the numbers most often seen on the net is
104 to 110 --- of course the
proponents use the largest numbers
available.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
> So if
one were to run propane in his/her car and turn up the boost say
>
17-20psi are larger injectors still needed? If so what if vpc and gcc
are
> already present to tune the mixture rich/lean etc. are larger
injecors still
> needed (if so why?)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 13:44:08
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: underhood temps
I've been monitoring underhood temps, not
with a candy thermometer, with an
indoor/outdoor digital thermometer. I put
the outside sensor right on the
bolt that so rudely protrudes from the
endcap. While driving, temperatures
seem to be about 10 degrees or so above
ambient air temperature. Stop at a
light or park for awhile and the
temp soars to 120° or better. So stuff is
cooking in there pretty good. And
this is in the relative cold. Things are
much uglier in Texas or other
southern climates.
I like the idea of some kind of heat shield as was
posted to the list. Might
look into that fabrication this weekend. I'll have
to go out and get another
indoor/outdoor thermometer to have simultaneous
readings.:-(
On a cooler, less technical note, I have searched all over
for the specs on
the factory stereo in the 95 VR-4. Anybody know anything
except size of
speakers and that the dash are 8 amp with doors and rears
being 4 amp? 240
watts total? How is is split or is it? Any wiring diagrams
available? I've
got the CD-ROM manual but I don't seem to see it in
there.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 5/1/02 11:14 AM,
Zobel, Kurt at
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com
scribbled:
> The hood could be bowing due to lift generated towards
the middle and rear,
> but still have positive pressure locally at the
hood / windshield interface.
> That is, the bow is due to less pressure on
top, not more pressure under the
> hood.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 13:00:32
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N Filtercharger for Eclipse out of production
would it
seem smarter for the community of 3s owners if that
dumb@$$casted bracket from the FIPK was made for
say 35$ ? then anybody
wanting a FIPK could get one together for under 80$
right? If there
is enough interest I will make them...I want at least 10
people in
for the buy....those oval filters are only like 45 from any
autoparts
store. So we find a comparable filter and make the adapter to make
it
fit? sounds as easy as pie to me......any thoughts. we really dont
need
to stick to the oval filter either do we? For that mater I could
easily do an
intake tube for the NA as a kit (the kit pictured as an
FIPK) but we all know
does not come with a tube.....I could easily
set this up if there was
interest....
bobk.
93 R/T NA
Grabber green pearl
99 conversion
it
is so close to being done....I can smell the carbon on the ticket
already
:)
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
roger.gerl@bluewin.chTo:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
K&N Filtercharger for Eclipse out of production
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002
20:55:00 +0200
>I recently runned out of stock of the Eclipse
Filterchargers (the
>non-street
>legal cheap filter) and wahted to
order a bunch of them. K&N now
>told me
>that it's not in
production anymore and has been replaced by the
>already
>known
FIPK ... on a higher price of course ! Summit sells it for
>around
$112
>compared to the $165.00 for our
FIPK.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 14:06:25
-0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: hood temp
Okay, so the debate still goes on. I have made the
decision that I am going
to leave my rear hood seal on this summer. NASCAR
does breathe from that
area, so there is positive pressure. I had assuemd
that air would flow out,
but if the string goes into the hood, that settles
it. I don't think we want
air going that way. I will let the work the Mitsu
engineers did with wind
tunnels alone in that department.
But how about
removing those splash guards behind the intercoolers? I had
said a lot of
heat was spilling out of there, but that wasn't my original
intent on doing
that. I imagined the benefit of hardware cloth as being a
way to get air
through the intercoolers and on its way instead of milling
around waiting to
get out through those six slits in the splash guard. The
bad side effects of
this mod is that on the right side the ABS computer is
exposed to water and
dirt. On the left there isn't anything critical that
couldn't get dirty. I
am going to fashion a cover for the ABS computer this
summer when I remove
the splash guards again.
Are there any other thoughts on this
mod?
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 21:04:45
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: underhood temps
Yes, 5-20ºF above outside ambient temp is
typical at the air filter when you
are moving (at least in my experience
when I still had the stock MAS and used
my TMO datalogger to monitor the IAT
sensor). And yes, things heat up when you
are still.
But
soooo?????
No engine power is necessary when you are not moving, so who
cares about the
temps? Well except maybe if you are concerned that the
expensive SLA battery
you installed is overheating and corroding.
And while cooler IATs (intake air temp) are always better, those darn
old
turbos just insist on heating the air to like 200º-350ºF - or even
higher for
the gonzos out there. :)
My turbo and IC exit temp
calculator:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htmIf
you had perfect intercoolers after the turbos, you would return that air
temp to external ambient value, *regardless* of what the initial IAT
was!
Quick example (atm=14 psi, 75ºF; boost=15psi; compres eff=70%; IC
eff=80%).
IAT = 75ºF
temp after IC=110ºF
IAT = 85ºF
temp
after IC=113ºF
IAT = 120º
temp after IC=122ºF
This is why I
have no concern at all for going to lengths to lower the IAT or
even caring
what the turbo efficiency is. Time, money, and energy are much
better spent,
IMHO, improving the intercooling.
For the above three cases, if IC
efficiency was improved to 90% the air temp
at the plenum would respectively
be: 93º, 94º, and 99ºF. Note, the last case
is *cooler* than the IAT by
23º!
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: "Zobel,
Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 01, 2002 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: underhood
temps
<snip>
While driving, temperatures seem to be about 10
degrees or so above ambient
air temperature. Stop at a light or park
for awhile and the temp soars to
120° or better. So stuff is cooking
in there pretty good.
<snip>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 16:14:47
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS system removal
Yeah, it is a street car, but it hasn't
had ABS for about 2 years now ;) I was going to pull the fuse, but it
broke first, so I didn't have to :) So the ABS system is installed, but it
isn't working, so there's no advantage to keeping it there. As for having
an accident... I don't mind fighting the case if I'd ever have to.
I know
there is other, heavier stuff in the car, but I actually use the passenger seat,
and I take the spare tire out to race (although I might use it), but keeping the
ABS is kinda like carrying around a small load of bricks. I'll definitely
never use that.
Chris sent me a link that talks about replacing the
system. He didn't go as far as Cody to look for replacement lines and
stuff, but he mentioned using some valves to keep the system biased
correctly. Anyone else have thoughts about that one? I never really
thought about whether the ABS system changes the way things work... even if it
doesn't :-D
Do non-ABS systems use valves and so forth to put 70% braking
power up front, or is it just handled by rotor size, etc. Any
ideas?
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 8:16
PM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS system removal
>
> The ABS pump is heavy,
though, it does only weigh about 35
> -40 pounds...
>
> I
came up with a way to remove it, but, I had troubles finding all the
>
necessary brake fittings required in metric sizes...
>
>
-Cody
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 15:28:30
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SynLube
I find ignorance to be quite blissful too, but in my
ignorance I want to be
a little smarter so that I can have more time to be
ignorant.... Ergo - can
someone fill me in on what synthetic I might want to
switch to. The
discussion on airplanes, assuming they use synthetics, seems
to be pretty
strong evidence that synthetics might be
justified.
Andy
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 00:35:44
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SynLube (Admin message)
Dear Members,
Please stop the
chatting style and keep in mind that we want to have good
discussions with
facts and ideas and no blabla.
Thanks for your understanding
Roger
for the Admins
>
> > Sorry to hear you are having a bad
day.
> >
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 15:50:53
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SynLube
Redline fan here.
On Wed, 1 May 2002, Andrew
Woll wrote:
> I find ignorance to be quite blissful too, but in my
ignorance I want to be
> a little smarter so that I can have more time to
be ignorant.... Ergo - can
> someone fill me in on what synthetic I might
want to switch to. The
> discussion on airplanes, assuming they use
synthetics, seems to be pretty
> strong evidence that synthetics might be
justified.
>
> Andy
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 18:57:45
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: ABS system removal
Guys, maybe its me, but honestly, removing the
ABS makes no sense. First, its
proven to reduce stopping distance-its a
technology taken from 747s and
military jets that stop from a much higher
speed then us. Second, 40 pounds?
the VR-4 weighs 3800, 4000 with a driver
on board. Will 40 pounds make that
much of a difference? Plus insurance will
be higher.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 19:11:38
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
At 01:18 5/1/2002, Matt
Jannusch wrote:
>But, since we can run more boost and get lower intake
temps (lowering it
>even AFTER the intercoolers have done what they can,
even lowering the
>compressed air temp to potentially below ambient) there
will be more air
>molecules shoved into the combustion chamber so we can
extract more power
>from the mixture. We are still running regular
fuel along with the propane.
>Say for sake of argument you inject 30% as
much propane as you do gasoline
>(feasible since the propane is gaseous
and the gasoline is liquid). Now you
>are down to only needing to
make 3% more power to be equal to where you were
>before. You can
easily make up that 3% (and then some!) with more boost.
Sorry for
beating this topic to death, but in my previous post I wrote
about a more
extreme case of propane injection - a 100% propane injection.
There was no
benefit unless I made some wrong assumptions.
A 30% propane injection
will work better than a 100% injection, but not as
good as no propane
injection at all.
A question to those who want to use propane injection
to go faster: if
propane is so much better than the 110 octane gasoline, why
not use 100% of
it?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 16:41:45
-0700
From: "Team3S-Admin" <
Team3S@bobforrest.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SynLube (Admin message #2)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> Dear
Members,
> Please stop the chatting style and keep in mind that we want to
have good
discussions with facts and ideas and no blabla.
> Thanks for
your understanding
> Roger, for the Admins
-
-------------------------------------->
As a second Admin
note...:
We don't need chat, I agree. But there is another issue
that's been getting
out of hand lately as much as chat for just a few of
you. It's even more
irritating since most members DO take the time to
post correctly...
If you're too busy to take the time to edit out all the
unnecessary 'stuff'
from previous posts that's below your answer, we'd prefer
that you not post
UNTIL you have time to send a proper ***trimmed***
note! Most of us take
the time, but a few of you really abuse the
system...
Sending a 1-line answer and leaving 50 previous lines below it
WITHOUT
snipping it out, is just plain selfish and rude!!! We have over
280 Digest
members who have to read all the days' posts in a single LONG
email. After
reading your 1-line answer, they have to read past 20, 50,
100 lines of all
that previous stuff to get to the next message.
THINK! Keep only the part
of the message you're replying to (for
reference), and edit out EVERYTHING
else.
We make all of our rules for
a good reason-- to make participation here
enjoyable for everyone!
Please..., have some respect for the Digest
members, (and the rest of us who
browse through your full note, looking for
a second part of your
reply). TRIM your posts!
Maybe from now on we'll switch main list
"abusers" of the "Trim your Posts"
rule to the Digest for a few days, and
give them a taste of their own
medicine(?)... ;-)
Thanks for
caring about the other members...
Forrest, for the
Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 19:47:41
-0400
From: "Chris McFarland" <
cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS
system removal
I couldn't agree more...personally, I like ABS. It's
saved my butt a few
times. I do not, however, agree with the price for
a new ABS pump, ~$2000.
That is just insane. I would attempt to remove
the ABS from my car as a
last resort option only.
Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
Guys, maybe its me, but honestly, removing the ABS
makes no sense. First,
its
proven to reduce stopping distance-its a
technology taken from 747s and
military jets that stop from a much higher
speed then us. Second, 40 pounds?
the VR-4 weighs 3800, 4000 with a driver on
board. Will 40 pounds make that
much of a difference? Plus insurance will be
higher.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 17:40:31
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Info
There is a big discussion on engine oils and how they
work. I found a nice
web page that gives good information on this
topic. It should be good
background info for anyone that is
interested.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.htmlDoug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 21:43:21
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: pillar-pod
Jeff,
What does that pod arrangement do to your
sightlines? Does it add/increase
blindspots enough to cause much
trouble?
Dennis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 22:34:18
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ABS system removal
Perhaps keeping ABS is preferred by most
but by no means is it wanted by
all. Some 3S owners pay close to a
thousand dollars (or more) to drop 30
pounds in the form of a light weight
hood or Volk rims (when other heavier
rims that look as good or better can be
had for much less $$). Just because
we are heavy stock doesn't mean we
should stay that way.
I would like to get rid of my perfectly functioning
ABS for the weight
savings. I could probably almost finance it by
selling my 50,000 mile used
ABS pump/actuator. Besides I datalog when I
race at the track and just
about any time I push my engine. So when I'd
potentially need it most it
doesn't work anyway because I have the TMO cable
plugged into the OBD port.
I'm looking around the local salvage yards for
a good non turbo 3S that came
without ABS and will investigate swapping
everything over while the engine
is out. Not saying it will happen for
sure, but I'm looking into it. One
downfall is I'm sure the stock prop.
valve isn't optimal for my Brembo
fronts and stock rears. I may need to
find another way to adjust the front
to rear bias.
I've gotten my
total weight savings over 200 lbs tastefully (in my opinion),
30 lbs here 25
there adds up quick.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 & '96 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 22:20:20
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
> A question to
those who want to use propane injection to go faster: if
> propane is so
much better than the 110 octane gasoline, why not use 100%
of
>
it?
...because most of us use our cars as daily drivers as well.
Its a little
tougher to find a gas station that will fill up a pure-propane
vehicle.
Most stations aren't set up to do it, they do cylinder exchange (if
at all -
at least around my area). The trucks that use propane for fuel
are usually
fleet vehicles which have their own filling
terminals.
Running 110 octane gasoline also gets expensive in a hurry,
and as I
mentioned before most 110 octane gasoline is leaded which kills O2
sensors.
At least in my area the highest octane unleaded obtainable is 100
octane and
is $4.00 a gallon.
Each way has benefits and drawbacks - it
is up to the individual to decide
which method is appropriate for their
needs.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 23:44:38
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Cleaning
The person I bought my car from must have driven
it alot on dirt roads or
something cuz the engine is dusty as hell. Also,
careless oil changers
spilled oil around the oil cap area. Bottom line is
that the engine looks
pretty nasty. I was wondering if any of you ever
"washed" your engine before
and what cleaner product you used. I've seen
cheap engine degreasers and
that sort of stuff at auto parts stores but that
requires washing it off
with water. Will this screw up my engine?
Recommendations besides taking out
the engine and hand wiping it down?
- -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 22:33:33
-0700
From: John Sheehan <
Johns@KYSO.com>
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
Systems
Has anyone tried Altered Atmosphere's products ? How are their
exhaust
system's ?
Thank you, John
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 02:28:29
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust Systems
John -- From what I saw first-hand on their cars
(the purple one with 99
conversion is quite a dream to behold). This
was at East Coast
Gathering last year when they demonstrated their AWD
dyno. Another
thing of beauty.
There are some pics on the links
from East Coast.
But the exhaust tips in my mind were to low (not enough
ground
clearance) and were too nice to beat up driving around on the
street.
I'm sure this is because the cars had been lowered. It did
sound nice
and was about a 3" pipe coming back. Someone has pictures of
a car on
the lift and the Altered Atmosphere exhaust in place. The
thing has
huge pipes.
That's all I can comment other than the Team3S
website is down right now
so I can't send the links to pix I had..
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 07:23:41
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: RE: Team3S: Exhaust Systems
I have been at the
shop about a dozen times, when they were building my car. The exhausts that they
make are custom built to a car. The one that I liked is a 3.5 inch main pipe "NO
CAT" to 2x3.0 inch with Apex N1 mufflers. Those things will look mean and sound
that way. I am not sure of the price, but I bet its pricy.
Can we have an
arrangment with them "Mike is the owner" so that we get a team
discount?
Roman G.
94 VR-4 just installed AVC-R and the 1200 HP preped
motor feels good.
I am going to the Ocean City Gathering that AAM is hosting
and on Friday may get some dyno time. Will let you know what # I get with the
new motor gutted precats, intake and the AVC-R.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 08:58:30
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS system removal
Actually, it's been an assumption by us
american folk I suppose, that ABS stops quicker. ABS is not designed to
stop your car quicker; it is designed to stop your car quicker if your reaction
is to lock your brakes, rather than stopping correctly. The average
american driver not only doesn't know how to drive, but usually doesn't care to
learn (no - this whole list needn't get offended - you're probably one of the
ones who cares :). I have never seen an independent test where ABS stopped
quicker.
Car and Driver did a test a year or so ago. Locking the
brakes from 100mph stopped the car 8 feet shorter than ABS! A professional
driver in the same car with ABS disabled stopped the car like 30 or so feet
shorter. From smaller speeds, ABS was sometimes faster than locking the
brakes, but usually only by a few feet - the professional driver was ALWAYS
stopping sooner.
As for the weight, no 40 lbs. isn't a lot, but when you
strip 20 here, then 40 there, then 50 somewhere else, pretty soon you've lost
300 lbs. That will make a significant difference in the 1/4 mi. If
you don't believe me... try running it just once with your 98 lb.
girlfriend. It's usually good for a full .1 seconds
;)
geis
PS - please read this as informative, not flaming. I
definitely don't aim this at an individual, and have no intention of upsetting
anyone ;)
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 6:58
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS system removal
>
> Guys, maybe its me, but
honestly, removing the ABS makes no
> sense. First, its
> proven
to reduce stopping distance-its a technology taken
> from 747s and
> military jets that stop from a much higher speed then us.
>
Second, 40 pounds?
> the VR-4 weighs 3800, 4000 with a driver on board.
Will 40
> pounds make that
> much of a difference? Plus insurance
will be higher.
>
> -mike
> 97 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 11:23:18
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Driveshaft
Fellas, this is a message my brother sent
me:
"There is still a slight vibration/noise coming from underneath the
car when
driving. Replaced the wheel bearings and that significantly reduced
the
rattling noise it was making but a slighter one is now heard/felt.
I got
under the car and looked at the half-shaft connector. I moved the
shaft
around and there was some 'play' to it. It moved up and
down."
What do you guys think? Probably not normal, right? Isn't there
some sort of
bearings in there that might be screwed up? Thanks.
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 08:35:25
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ABS system removal
You are right Brian. ABS does not necessarily
stop a car in less distance.
However, the short sacrafice in distance is made
up for by the main purpose
of ABS and that is the ability to maintain control
of your steering while in
a panic stop. Without ABS you will lose control no
matter how good a driver
you are. With ABS you will continue to have control.
It is that simple. A
human being simply cannot pulse the brakes as fast as an
ABS computer nor
can a human make the pulse right on the point where lockup
occurs.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 08:37:25
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ABS system removal
On Thu, May 02, 2002, Geisel, Brian <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
wrote:
> Actually, it's been an assumption by us american folk I suppose,
that ABS
> stops quicker. ABS is not designed to stop your car
quicker; it is designed
> to stop your car quicker if your reaction is to
lock your brakes, rather
> than stopping correctly.
There is
yet another important function that ABS performs: Ability to steer
while
braking - this is when most of the lockup occurs that needs to
be
restrained.
> The average american driver not only doesn't know
how to drive, but usually
> doesn't care to learn (no - this whole list
needn't get offended - you're
> probably one of the ones who cares
:).
This may be true, but even the world's best and professional
drivers lock up
their wheels - watch F1 if you don't believe me.
>
Car and Driver did a test a year or so ago. Locking the brakes from
100mph
> stopped the car 8 feet shorter than ABS!
Did they
also perform steering tests while braking? If not, I don't see much
use
for the above demonstration.
> PS - please read this as informative,
not flaming. I definitely don't aim
> this at an individual, and
have no intention of upsetting anyone ;)
I'm not flaming, but just
pointing out that you only provided proof for one of
the uses of ABS, but not
the more important one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 09:43:19
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft
Try replacing the driveshaft carrier
bearings.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Rodriguez, Elpidio
x35617d1
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:23 AM
To:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
'
Subject: Team3S: Driveshaft
Fellas, this is a message my brother
sent me:
"There is still a slight vibration/noise coming from underneath
the car
when driving. Replaced the wheel bearings and that significantly
reduced
the rattling noise it was making but a slighter one is now
heard/felt.
I got under the car and looked at the half-shaft connector. I
moved the
shaft around and there was some 'play' to it. It moved up and
down."
What do you guys think? Probably not normal, right? Isn't there
some
sort of bearings in there that might be screwed up? Thanks.
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 11:54:54
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
The government will
provide some sort of tax rebate upwards of several
thousand dollars if you
perform a full propane conversion. I don't really
know the details of
this though.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net> A
question to those who want to use propane injection to go faster: if
>
propane is so much better than the 110 octane gasoline, why not use
100%
of
> it?
...because most of us use our cars as daily
drivers as well. Its a little
tougher to find a gas station that will
fill up a pure-propane vehicle.
Most stations aren't set up to do it, they do
cylinder exchange (if at all -
at least around my area). The trucks
that use propane for fuel are usually
fleet vehicles which have their own
filling terminals.
Running 110 octane gasoline also gets expensive in a
hurry, and as I
mentioned before most 110 octane gasoline is leaded which
kills O2 sensors.
At least in my area the highest octane unleaded obtainable
is 100 octane and
is $4.00 a gallon.
Each way has benefits and
drawbacks - it is up to the individual to decide
which method is appropriate
for their needs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 09:58:12
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Propane Injection (was alternative fuels)
On Thu, May 02, 2002, Black,
Dave (ICT) <
dblai@allstate.com>
wrote:
> Most stations aren't set up to do it, they do cylinder exchange
(if at all -
> at least around my area). The trucks that use propane
for fuel are usually
> fleet vehicles which have their own filling
terminals.
This is mostly true; however, another big consumer of
pump-type fillable
propane is the Recreational Vehicle. You may have to
drive your car to a
campsite to utilize this feature :-)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 10:09:24
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
K&N Filtercharger for Eclipse out of production
That would be really
cool if you could make an intake tube. However, your
idea of making an
adapter and just fitting a universal K&N FIPK has been
done by numerous
people.
www.lightningmotorsports.com
sells an adapter for
$30 and the FIPK for $39. This is for the 4.5" inlet
that the Universal K&N
FIPK has. I'm not sure if the filter adapter is
for the eclipse or for the
3s, but from what I've seen and read, it shouldn't
really matter. The bolt
hole dimensions on that filter adapter is 2 3/8" and
4 1/4" center to
center. If anyone knows or wants to measure their MAS to
make sure, that'd
be great.Also,
www.extrememotorsports.com has an
adapter that is made for
the 3s, but it's $60. As for me, I bought my adapter
for $26 shipped off
ebay. There's someone in southern CA who sells them at a
starting price of
$12.99. I then purchased my S&B 7" powerstack filter
from
www.intenseperfomance.com
. It cost me $55 and I'm very happy with the
results. I think that the 8"
powerstack filter would work as well, but I
wanted to try doing a "ram air"
effect sometime in the future and the 8"
would have been too large for my
idea.
I'd be very interested in the intake tube for an n/a if you could
make a
polished on at a reasonable price.
Tri
99 SOHC
Front
& Rear strut bars, 7" Powerstack filter
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
May 01, 2002 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N Filtercharger for Eclipse
out of production
> would it seem smarter for the community of 3s
owners if that
dumb@$$> casted bracket from
the FIPK was made for say 35$ ? then anybody
> wanting a FIPK could get
one together for under 80$ right? If there
> is enough interest I will
make them...I want at least 10 people in
> for the buy....those oval
filters are only like 45 from any autoparts
> store. So we find a
comparable filter and make the adapter to make it
> fit? sounds as easy as
pie to me......any thoughts. we really dont
> need to stick to the oval
filter either do we? For that mater I could
> easily do an intake tube for
the NA as a kit (the kit pictured as an
> FIPK) but we all know does not
come with a tube.....I could easily
> set this up if there was
interest....
> bobk.
> 93 R/T NA
> Grabber green pearl
>
99 conversion
> it is so close to being done....I can smell the carbon on
the ticket
> already :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:16:47
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS system removal
Yoss, didn't take it as a flame bud,
you've got a good point :)
The tests did not take steering into
account. So you're definitely right on that account, in adverse weather
conditions, or hard braking, ABS does a good job of allowing the car to maintain
steering ability. ABS definitely has that advantage.
I might argue
then that ABS has advantages and disadvantages both. For me, faster
straight stopping and possibly lighter weight (if I actually remove the system)
is worth the penalty of less controlled steering during hard braking and the
necessity to correctly brake in stops. The day-to-day driving I do tends
to make that better for me.
geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 10:22:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: Thomas Labonte <
tnl7455@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Paint/clear coat
I've got a green 92 VR-4 whose paint needs
some
serious help. It would seem that the previous owner
was fond of
washing it with a scotch-brite pad. One
thing I can't seem to figure
out is if it has a clear
coat or not. Any idea how I can find this
out? And
if it does have a clear coat, does anyone have
any
suggestions as to how I should go about restoring it?
I've seen Jeff
Lucius' "Amateur's Guide to Paint
Restoration", but it states that the
procedure will
destory a clear coat (if you have
one).
Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 10:46:01
-0700
From: "Dean Benz" <
dbenz@VCHillClimb.org>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Cleaning
While I haven't done it on my 3S yet except
on my leaky trans, I have done this on a number of different cars.
First,
pick up 2-4 times as much engine degreaser/cleaner as you think you need and
good high power hose nozzle. (You can always return anything yo udon't use) I
have used Gunk, and a Citrus based product I can't remember the name of.
Follow their instructions!
That said, here are some things I have found
that help. (Standard Disclaimers apply. Use these at your own risk)
Setup
a set of ramps or get out the jack and jack stands so you can get the nose up in
the air. Take off any plastic or other covers top and bottom. Put on some ratty
clothes cause you are gonna get wet and messy.
Figure out what all you
are going to need to keep from getting wet, and actually find the right
combination of plastic bags, rags rubber bands, clamps etc. it will take to do
it, and test fit everything. (Air intake, distributor, coil, and dipsticks are
the usual targets. Make sure your brake fluid and other filler caps are tight as
well.)
Drive around until the engine and everything else in the engine
compartment is warm. 5-10 minutes? You don't want it HOT, so stay out of the
turbos etc. The heat will help loosen up the grease, and help dry the water when
you are done.
Put the car in the air, and seal everything up you figured
out earlier. Hopefully nothing is so hot it will melt the plastic, but be
careful.
Get under there and coat everything you can see/reach bottom to
top, back to front. I know it runs down, but the only way to make sure you get
everything on the bottom is to start there. Back to front is so you aren't
dripping on yourself (as much). I would spray everything from frame rails to the
firewall, making sure I hit any inside corners with a good dose as stuff just
piles up in there. Now get up on top and hit anything you couldn't reach from
below. Again, bottom to top, back to front.
Let it work for a couple of
minutes and get out the hose and blast the junk off in the same order. Being
conscious of where your plastic bags are etc. so you don't blast them
off.
After the dripping stops, get back under there and see what you
missed and do those areas again. Sometimes a big flat blade screwdriver, a putty
knife, or a steel wire brush for the tough spots helps.
Let everything
dry, take off your bags, and let everything dry some more. The longer you let it
dry the better, especially hood open facing the sun.
Check to make sure
you didn't knock any connectors loose on any sensors etc.. Double check you got
every plastic bag off, especially on the air intake and start it up. If you did
it all right, it should start and run as well as before. If it is a little
rough, let it run, you probably got some water somewhere, and letting it idle up
to temp should clear it up. If it runs real bad, shut it down, and let it dry
some more, and triple check you got all the bags, rags etc. and that all the
wires go where they are supposed to.
What most people forget to do is to
run it up on ramps a week or so later and see where/if they have leaks. They are
much easier to find on a clean engine/trans/whatever. Fix them, clean those
areas back up and repeat until you have a leak free engine
compartment!
Good luck
- -Dean
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#829
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