Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, April 30 2002 Volume 01 : Number 827

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:40:50 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?
> Any chance I can fit the 60mm Greddy EGT in my 52mm gauge pod?
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

Yes! I've seen and even driven an S/3 or two that had done just that.

The first was Chris Dotur when he visited during his Alamo trip and
the latest was Jerry's Hennessey StealthTT. (used to belong to Ben)

They were both using single 52 mm A pillar cups - dremel tool makes it
happen.

Jerry hasn't had the car very long and may not realize he has a 60 MM
Greddy peak and hold boost gauge (the latest model) and a 60 MM
peak and hold EGT. Spoiled me rotten the few times I drove it .....

He's having piston ring problems ........ :(

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:50:40 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Synthetic oil?

I am currently in the process of "Cleansing" my oil by using 5w30 cheap ass
oil and 1 quart of ATF. I plan on changing it again after 500 miles. My
question is has anyone else done this and been SUCCESSFUL? I immediately
notice that the lifter tick is twice as loud and is constant now that I have
the lighter weight oil in it, is that normal?

Note: I was using 10w30 Mobil 1 for about 12,000 and noticed the ticking
slowly increasing with every change.

- -Erik
91 Stealth (base)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <M3000GTSL84@aol.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 4:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Synthetic oil?

> I use Mobil 1 and don't have lifter tick.
> I don't know if there is a direct correlation.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:36:48 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

siezed throw out bearing could do it.. happened to me, but mine was
accompanied by a high pitched metal to metal squeel.. just a thought

Omar
92 r/t

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Gabe Simoes
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 8:29 PM
To: Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

Hello all,

Another problem abounds. Lately my stealth dies whenever the clutch is
engaged. The car normally idles at about 700 RPM in nuetral, but when the
clutch is engaged, it immediately drops to 500, studders, then dies. It
doesn't die while accelerating, just when I depress the clutch and apply the
brakes to stop. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Gabe Simoes

TEAM EXCELR8ED
- -President

'92 Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake & Exhaust @ 16psi

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 19:47:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

I guess me. None of my cars to it.

The plastic grid is below the airstream. Tape it to the hood at the edge
every 2" across the whole hood.

On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:

> Sankar and others,
>
> Removing the weather-stripping at the rear of the engine bay and not
> performing any other mods will make air ENTER at the rear of the hood
> instead of EXIT. Who needs for me to take a video of this?
>
> Step 1:------------snip-------------->
> --Flash!

- ---
Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:57:44 -0400
From: "Pierre Routhier" <pierre.routhier@videotron.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on

Hi Rich,
Mine did the same thing often around 14psi until the rubber finally died.
I found my solution by using a rubber coupling (hose adapters/reducers see
example http://www.importstudio.bigstep.com/generic.html?pid=44) used for
performance air filter kit (about 8$) sold at performance shop. I bought the
thing and cut it to the proper lenght.

Works perfect since. Original rubber gasket comes glued with the Y pipe,
quite pricey when you only need to replace the inner rubber that is a bit
worn/slippery.

Enjoy,
Pierre

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of merritt@cedar-rapids.net
Sent: 29 avril, 2002 15:24
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on

Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He held the pipe on whilst I
tightened the clamp. (It's amazing how our cars fascinate cops. I got
stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see the car.
But I digress.)

Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various
solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to wedging a board twixt
the pipe and the battery.

What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex this
weekend.

Rich/slow old poop
DSBC set to 15 psi max.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:16:39 -0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Team3S: Better front mount oil cooler *

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <tds@brightok.net>
To: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:03 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

> I will be installing a new *SETRAB* oil cooler on
> my StealthTT. It will be bigger, better and *much*
> less expensive than the puny $700 Mazda OEM cooler.
>
> It should take a couple of weeks to gather parts,
> install etc. I will NOT be removing the front
> end to install either.
>
> Expect an update with links to my digital pics.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is an idea of what I am in the process of going with:

[sales pitch and company info]

Setrab, made in Sweden, is the number one supplier of oil coolers and
heat exchangers to the professional racing industry and are OEM
suppliers to manufacturers such as Rolls Royce and Ferrari. They are
simply the best coolers available,very reliable, lightweight, efficient
and offer low pressure drop. All models are suitable for engine oil,
transmission or differential cooling. These are suitable replacements
for the Mocal or Serck lines which are virtually unavailable.

Standard design coolers use shallow tubes, internal turbulators
and external fins. All coolers are 2" thick and are available in a
variety of sizes and fitting configurations.

I am planning on using the 44 row model which can be
found for $250 - $300 depending on vendor. Add high temp hoses
(I'll use blue HKS/Greddyturbo oil drain type), fittings
(not the banjo type), brackets and I should be done for around $400
and have a proper oil cooler for a modded turbo 3S to boot.
There are 4 different inlet/outlet sizes available for this particular
model. [634] It's nearly 50% bigger than the Mazda stock cooler.
They also carry another cooler that is a little larger still for $325
- -$350 depending on vendor.

Setrab also sells a "very high dollar" liquid cooler:

Liquid Oil Cooler - Uses side tanks with the traditional
plate heat exchanger principle. Very low pressure drop
and optimal performance. 9" Wide x 9" Long x 3 1/4" Thick.

It's $600 - might be an option for those with FMIC or don't
want a front mount cooler or air cooled ......

I've got the large, latest gen sidemount Alamo/Cartech/Corky Bell
intercoolers and I'm going front mount. I've got good air flow
via large opening in front cover and lower sheild with air diverter
moving the collection directly into the lower condensor/radiator
area. I would advise against using the stock location since the
oil cooler may end up be *heated* due to its location directly
*behind* a side mount [drivers] intercooler.

If I have to I can/will add a Setrab (or other brand)
fan pack (room allowed) but this has not been neccessay
according to the Supra/300ZX turbo owners running Setrab
front mount/air cooled units.

All Setrab coolers are fully brazed with the Nocolok method,
which insures complete brazing of all internal and external
contact services and a brazed seam that withstands vibrations
and pulsations. To increase the resistance to corrosion, (Jack T)
the coolers are epoxy coated.

Parent company and production plant are located in Malmo, Sweden.
Their coolers are used in many applications and industries. (agriculture,
energy supplum transport etc)

I've also got various charts/graphs/data for:

Cooling effect per tube at air velocity 3 m/s
Air pressure drop
Correction factor for cooling effect at different air flows
Oil pressure drop in the connections with different bore diameters
Oil pressure drop in tubes of different lengths

Our list engineers would enjoy those!

I could see several different configurations with the
3S depending location, HP levels, available space etc

There are many different sizes available .....

And all this can be yours for the low low price
of just $699 from Todd's 3S Oil Cooler Corporation!

Yes - I am kidding .....

I'll post some pics and observations once I am
finished.

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:03:01 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60mm Greddy EGT DOES fit in Autometer 52mm pod if you enlarge hole

<html><head><meta Name='keywords' Content='commtouch, pronto, mail, free email, free, branded, web based, free web based email, communications, internet, software, advertising banners, e-mail, free software'></head><body ><div align='left'><blockquote><blockquote><TT>Dave Black 
 
I installed a 60mm Greddy EGT gage in a Autometer dual gage A-pillar 
pod on Saturday, for a Friend.  I just used a dremmel to enlarge hole 
all the way to the outer edge.  The gauge covers up the slightly 
rough edge, it looks great and it works great too.  I was surprised 
how quickly the EGT temps changed.  After watching the warning lights 
go off at 850 deg C and being able to use the peak memory button I 
think this is the best gage avialable.  The peek hold features 
surprised me because the exhasut temperatures changed so fast at 
maximum boost that it actully go higher than I thought because I was 
focusing ont he road. 
 
I installed the EGT gage probe inthe rear manifold with it still on 
the car.  I had to use a 2 ft drill bit extender for the drill and 
tap. It was a tight fit but since it is UNDER (downstream) the turbo, 
the steel shavings didn't go through the turbo (precats were guuted 
so shavings didn't get stuck in it either. I can't understand why so 
many people say this is so dangerous to do with manifold on the car. 
 
P.S. I installed installed a Greddy boost gage in the same dual pod 
assembly.  You have to twist the age to get it into the pod farthest 
from you but it just barely fits! 
 
Very Cool:) 
 
John Monnin 
1991 VR-4 
4-bolt main conversion 

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:10:26 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Better front mount oil cooler *

Has anyone actually measured the oil temps and determined that there's a
real need for a larger oil cooler on the turbo models? $400-700 would be a
good amount of money towards an improved radiator if the oil temps aren't as
severe as assumed.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:31:44 US/Central
From: tds@brightok.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: Better front mount oil cooler *

> Has anyone actually measured the oil temps and determined that there's a
> real need for a larger oil cooler on the turbo models? $400-700 would be a
> good amount of money towards an improved radiator if the oil temps aren't as
> severe as assumed.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
- ------------------------------------------------------------

I would already have an alum radiator if it weren't
for the space constraints with the 368's.(front)
We already had to cut the shrowd for the stock radiator.
If the radiator were any thicker, it would be a no-go.
Actuator is a bear ... got pics ....

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 00:51:56 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: Team3S: hissing near plenum at idle, normal?

I'm trying to find out why my car keeps dying at idle, and whether there is
a leak somewhere. When the car is idling, there is a hissing noise that is
very noticeable, and seems to be coming from somewhere near the right
(driver's) side. It is near the back of the plenum, somewhere around where
it says "twin turbo" on it. Is this normal? I don't remember if it used to
do this or not, so I'd appreciate some additional info on this, as I'm
chasing ghosts trying to find out what is the matter. I've already replaced
the vacuum lines that are near the throttle body. Next thing up is perhaps
the throttle body gasket.

thanks,
Bill

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:53:35 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

True, my Autometer only had readings to 1600 and I have easily gone past
that probably to about 1700 under a hard pull for a while.

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 3:24 PM
To: 'Matt Jannusch'
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

Matt,

I had heard that the big downfall with using an Autometer EGT was that
it could only read up to 900C (1650F) which was not enough to tell you
when you were getting close to the danger zone. I remember seeing that
the Greddy EGT that goes to 1200C which seems to be way more than what
we need although that is what all of their EGT's are measured to.

Any chance I can fit the 60mm Greddy EGT in my 52mm gauge pod?

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:15 AM
To: Black, Dave (ICT); Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

> and would like the EGT gauge to:
>
> 1. have a peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read up to 1200 C

Why 1200C? That's almost 2200 degrees F. K-type thermocouples are best
used between 583C and 1093C (according to Exhaust Gas Technologies).
AFAIK, the SPA Techniques gauge uses an amplifier that converts 10mv to
1v, 50mv to 5v, etc. and the gauge ranges from 0v to 5v so you could
read up to your 1200C (50mv). If you are interested in this gauge,
check with the SPA Techniques guys about what you want to do to make
sure it'll actually work, or I can dig out my spec sheet (if I can find
it).

Hope that helps...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:53:35 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

Depends on which pod you are using, I know my lo-tec triple would NOT
hold 60's!

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 00:55:02 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: Team3S: datalogger: knock with iridium plugs?

There was a post on 3si.org a while back in which Roger G. stated that one
of his customers had knock with iridium plugs (presumably discovered with a
datalogger) and some other problems that went away when he switched them out
to some other plugs (either the copper or stock NGK). Does anyone else know
if this is fairly common, or an isolated incident that might have been
caused by something else? I have newly installed Denso iridium plugs and am
getting knock at even low (11 psi) boost levels with my 15Gs, 550s, Walbro,
VPC/SAFC, etc. I'm wondering if perhaps that is the problem.

thanks,
Bill

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:01:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hissing near plenum at idle, normal?

A hissing noise, dies at idle.

Gee..ya think thats normal?

Get a long piece of thick vacum hose.

One end in your ear..probe with the other. You will nail down the exact
leak pretty quick.

On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Bill vp wrote:

> I'm trying to find out why my car keeps dying at idle, and whether there is
> a leak somewhere. When the car is idling, there is a hissing noise that is
> very noticeable, and seems to be coming from somewhere near the right
> (driver's) side. It is near the back of the plenum, somewhere around where
> it says "twin turbo" on it. Is this normal? I don't remember if it used to
> do this or not, so I'd appreciate some additional info on this, as I'm
> chasing ghosts trying to find out what is the matter. I've already replaced
> the vacuum lines that are near the throttle body. Next thing up is perhaps
> the throttle body gasket.
>
> thanks,
> Bill

- ---
Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:00:00 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Does this mean that such parts as the Bozz-Speed aftermarket strut covers
(with holes in the back of them) actually do not let hot air out of the car?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 9:18 PM
To: ''Team3S' '
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

As an aerospace engineering student having taken courses in aerodynamics, I
have to agree with Flash here. We did a lab experiment for flow over an
aircraft wing much like what Flash just described here with the dental
floss. It's true, the flow of air should (will) actually follows a path back
into the engine bay.

- -ROD

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:08:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Dunno..go experiment and see. :^)

On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Bill vp wrote:

> Does this mean that such parts as the Bozz-Speed aftermarket strut covers
> (with holes in the back of them) actually do not let hot air out of the car?

- ---
Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:08:13 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

with 20psi, is that like 5 psi boost pressure?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Yoss
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 6:10 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

I've run intake pressure tests to check for any leaks, and this valve easily
holds the pressure upto 20psi. Well, the only leak that was detected was at
the throttle body; hence the statement that the bpv wasn't leaking. Since
this unit is a bypass valve, if it would leak any boost, it would leak it
back
into the intake. So, will a pressure test detect it?

- -sankar
'97 "LW-FLYN" VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:09:51 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

would it also cause the car to die sometimes when it is just sitting there
idling (with throwout bearing rattling like crazy)?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Omar Malik
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:37 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

siezed throw out bearing could do it.. happened to me, but mine was
accompanied by a high pitched metal to metal squeel.. just a thought

Omar
92 r/t

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:16:27 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: hissing near plenum at idle, normal?

well I know the dying at idle is not normal :P
So your car doesn't make that noise? I can't tell that mine does it unless
I pop the hood.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 1:01 AM
To: Bill vp
Cc: team3/S
Subject: Re: Team3S: hissing near plenum at idle, normal?

A hissing noise, dies at idle.

Gee..ya think thats normal?

Get a long piece of thick vacum hose.

One end in your ear..probe with the other. You will nail down the exact
leak pretty quick.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:29:27 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

I thought that someone was testing the Buick GN coils without any kind
of MSD system to see if just the coils would improve our ignition. If
you're going to get the MSD, why not just go for the Accell coils that
have already been used? Are the Buick GN coils better, easier to
install, or less expensive or something?

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Floyd, Jim
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:08 AM
To: 'Furman, Russell'; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

Russell,

So you are of the opinion that we do need to run MSD with the
Accel coils ?
What destroyed your engine ?

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:30:42 +0800
From: "John Stegall III" <jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject: Team3S: SynLube

About 3 months ago a friend of mine who owns a 300ZX TT was talking to me about this. He said it was an oil you only need to change once maybe every 150,000 miles, even in turbo, heavily modded cars... which his car happens to be. I had forgotten about it after leaving his place, figuring he was talking nonsense. But I saw it tonight on the news and noted that its used by NASA, and several race car drivers. I was just curious if anyone on the list has heard of it or used it, and if so what they thought of it? I've sent them an email asking about it, and plan to call them tomorrow to ask for more information about it. But they offer transaxle fluid, brake fluid, amongst other things and all oils/fluids are 100% synthetic. I just finished talking with my friend again and he said it's still in his car and he uses the tranny & engine oils, but hasn't switched to the break stuff yet. I'd appreciate any info anyone has on the stuff. Just trying to find out if it will work!
in our cars or not. Hell, fully synthetic oil that adds to the life of my car and I never need to change it... :)

John
1994 3000GT VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:33:07 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

It depends on the pressure in that specific area. Test and we will
know. I seem to believe though that without any difference in pressure
that it will behave like Cowl induction and that is why I always have to
laugh at these kids who put vents pointing backwards on their hood
thinking it is getting air out but it is getting air in instead.

Maybe the strut tower covers on top of the first gen hood creates enough
turbulence that directly behind these at the rear of the hood air can
come out. Mine is a second gen so the hood is more or less smooth.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 01:00
To: team3/S
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Does this mean that such parts as the Bozz-Speed aftermarket strut
covers
(with holes in the back of them) actually do not let hot air out of the
car?

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 01:39:21 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: SynLube

John -- Are you dead sure it was 150,000 miles and not 15,000 miles? I
have seen oil after 10,000 miles and can't imagine what it is like after
more than 20,000 miles. It's gotta get as thick as clay after that much
shearing and heating and cooling and coking.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Amsoil synthetic

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Stegall III
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 01:31

About 3 months ago a friend of mine who owns a 300ZX TT was talking to
me about this. He said it was an oil you only need to change once maybe
every 150,000 miles, even in turbo, heavily modded cars... which his car
happens to be.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:48:24 +0800
From: "John Stegall III" <jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: SynLube

Darren -

I'm absolutely sure it is 150,000 miles, no mistake. You can check out the story at www.UPN13.com or you can read it directly from their web site at www.SynLube.com. Believe me, you're not the only one who flipped at reading that. So far I've heard good things about it from another online "acquaintence" (from another list) who uses it in his Turbo Diesel RAM. Claims he's put 24,000 miles on his truck since he started using it 2 years ago and its still running smooth and strong. I'm still waiting to hear from any others about its effects. I'm hoping to hear from someone who's got another turbo car, perhaps someone on the DSM lists. I'll keep the list updated as I hear more.

John

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 23:07:00 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SynLube

150,000 miles on the same oil? That is impossible with a standard street
car engine. You have the oil being contaminated by metal shavings and the
blow by from the piston rings. The oil even cooks on some of the hot spots
on the engine. Even if you changed out just the filter every 5,000 miles or
so, that would still be 30 filter changes and would add up to a significant
amount of oil leaving the engine just in the dirty filter.

I do know of a study that Consumer Reports did with oils and oil changes.
They did a test in 92 with NY City taxi cabs. For 100,000 miles, they
changed the oil in half the cabs every 3,000 miles and the other half every
6,000 miles. They also had synthetic oils in the 3,000 mile and 6,000 mile
group. There was one more group of cabs that were changed every 10,000
miles. They also had all the major brand names. The results from the study
were simple: there were no differences in any of the cars except for the
10,000 mile cars. The 10,000 cars were the only ones that showed
significant wear. Consumer Reports concluded that brand names and synthetic
oils don't make a difference in engine wear(engine performance was not
tested). Also, oil changes can be done at 6,000 miles without hurting the
engine. The filter must be changed at 6,000 miles.

The obvious thing to note is that we own sports cars that are revved higher
and we demand more from our engine than taxi cab drivers. I'll believe
150,000 miles when I read a no BS independent study of it.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 07:28:28 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

I am trying out that theory now, the reasoning behind this was you can
purchase the coil pack for $85 (approx) then just figure out how to wire it
up to the stock transistors. i have a bunch of connectors on order, I am
attempting to make this as simple as possible and with help from Jeff L
hoping to be able to give detailed instructions including wire colors for
all year 3S's. The other issue is the current coil solution has extremely
high level of primary resistance, so you are fixing one problem (weak spark
output by the stock coils) but possibly creating another (premature failure
of the factory transistor).

Roger presented 2 options to the list a few weeks back and I jumped at the
first one he mentioned and volunteered to test it. Especially since it
takes for ever for the delivery goats to drop stuff off in the Alps ;) Of
course 2 days after the parts arrived I lunched my motor (check you engine
mounts and replace if broken/worn)

- -----Original Message-----
From: BlackLight [mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent: Tue 4/30/2002 1:29 AM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; Furman, Russell; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

I thought that someone was testing the Buick GN coils without any kind
of MSD system to see if just the coils would improve our ignition. If
you're going to get the MSD, why not just go for the Accell coils that
have already been used? Are the Buick GN coils better, easier to
install, or less expensive or something?

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 08:23:04 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

maybe they let cold air going over the top of the hood flow back into the
engine bay ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill vp [SMTP:billvp@highstream.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 12:00 AM
> To: team3/S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
>
> Does this mean that such parts as the Bozz-Speed aftermarket strut covers
> (with holes in the back of them) actually do not let hot air out of the
> car?

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 08:39:33 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cannot remove brake rotors

I have seen this problem with an Eclipse as well as four 3000GT's. The
corrosion problem is caused by a "battery" that is formed between the
dissimilar metals in the chrome coating of the hub and the steel rotor hat
by moisture in between. I had a hub replaced under warranty and by the time
I got the rotor off (2 months) corrosion had already started. Add salt from
the ocean or from treating snow-covered roads and it's worse. That's why I
coat the hubs with anti-seize compound - to prevent corrosion. I imagine
chassis grease would fullfill the same function, but I think anti-seize has
better tolerance of the high temperatures under the rotor hat.

Chuck Willis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew D. Woll [SMTP:awoll1@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2002 11:57 AM
> To: Philip V. Glazatov; team3s@team3s.com; mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
> stealth@stls.verio.net; a23Si@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Cannot remove brake rotors
>
> Rest assured you are not the first to encounter this problem. Whoever
> designed the rotors had their head up their ???.
>
> Andy

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 08:37:56 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Adjusting swahy bars

I have adjustable sway bars (from the group buy last winter) and am going to test them for the first time on track this weekend.

Anybody got any guidelines for adjusting them?

It appears that they are only adjustable up front.

If we determine that the car is understeering or oversteering, how should I adjust the bar? Tighten or loosen?
Which way would that be on the adjusters?
A diagram would help, if anybody knows where to find one.

Thanks for your help.

Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4 with sway bars, Ground Control lowered to the max, and Eibachs.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 06:59:51 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@mvplabels.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Adjusting swahy bars

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> I have adjustable sway bars (from the group buy last winter) and am going
to test them for the first time on track this weekend. Anybody got any
guidelines for adjusting them?
It appears that they are only adjustable up front.
> If we determine that the car is understeering or oversteering, how should
I adjust the bar? Tighten or loosen?
- ---------snip-----------
> Rich/slow old poop
- ------------------------------------->

We don't have adjustment sugggestions, but the handling chart on our website
will indicate what effect stiffness/softness will have on your car. You can
try this for starters:
www.Team3S.com/FAQhandling-guide.htm

Best,

Forrest

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:01:40 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

I have Mobil One 10W30 and also have lifter tick in my '93VR4. I have
Mobile One 10W30 in my '94VR4 and NO lifter tick. Go figure.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 7:20 PM
> To: Yoss; Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
>
> Few people report lifter tick being cured by switching to Mobil 1.
>
> There have been threads concerning various head cleaning solvents
> and auto trans fluid mixed with the tail of a newt and some dried bat
> wings. I find the bat wings overkill plus they're hard to find.
>
> I've cured my lifter tick by a weekend at on open track event --- I
> assume the time spent at or near redline helps clear the lifter
> oil passages --- it seems to return after 6 months or so.
>
> Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 14:20:28 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves

Here is another thought.

The BOV has two large openings. One connects to the Y-pipe, which is often
pressurized to 2 atmospheres, using an ~1 foot long 1" diameter hose. One
connects to the intake hose just after the MAS, which is always at a pressure
less than one atmosphere. Except perhaps at idle, the BOV will never see the
same pressure at the two large openings. The third opening on the BOV is a
small one that connects to the plenum by a long ~1/4" hose. There is a valve
or diaphragm that seals the two large openings from each other. The pressure
from the third small opening presses against the valve in opposition to the
pressure from the Y-pipe. If pressure decreases on the third small opening
compared to the opening from the Y-pipe the valve/diaphragm will open (like
when the throttle plate is closed rapidly).

Below is an idealized diagram of the concept.

http://www.daihard.org/tuning/bov.htm

Unfortunately, our BOV is designed a bit differently than shown above. It
looks to me that the pressure from the Y-pipe impinges directly on the base of
the valve/diaphragm in our BOV, rather than on the side. It would be easy to
imagine that even with equal pressure in the plenum and Y-pipe, a larger
amount of pressure would be transmitted through the short large hose that goes
from the Y-pipe to the BOV, than through the long small hose that goes from
the plenum to the BOV. This pressure difference could be significant at higher
boost pressures.

I think the analogy would be the difference in electrical resistance along a
short length of 0 gauge wire compared to a long length of 16 gauge wire. More
voltage (electrical pressure) will get through the 0-ga wire than through the
16-ga wire.

At some point, perhaps around 15+ psi boost?, the pressure loss in the small
hose allows the stock BOV to open. So I wonder why aftermarket BOVs would work
any better than the stock one? Different design of some sort? Their
adjustability?

Our BOV and the GReddy:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-bov1.htm

Also, the intake pressure test cannot test for BOV leaks between Y-pipe and
intake hose because both large openings of the BOV have the same pressure on
them.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Yoss" <yoss@aracnet.com>; "Team3S" <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

The BOV only needs to hold minimal pressure --- one side of the valve
has pressure direct from the turbos and the other side has manifold
pressure, which will be the same as the turbos are providing. At this point
both sides af the valve have the same, or very near the same pressure.
The only time it sees pressure differential is when the throttle closes and
the manifold pressure drops to a vacuum --- at this point one side has
vacuum and the other has turbo output and the valve opens to release
pressure.

I'm going to have to dig out my old BOV --- as I recall it had a small hole
between the two sides ?!?!?!?!

 Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 14:33:53 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60mm Greddy EGT DOES fit in Autometer 52mm pod if you enlarge hole

John,

The physical sequence is
1. exhaust manifold
2. turbo
3. exhaust fitting (O2 housing)

The only useful place for an EGT is in (1) above. Where did you install the
EGT pyrometer again? Your info below conflicts. The manifold is
before/upstream of the turbo.

Exhaust manifold pictures (head on one end, turbo on the other). :)
http://www.stealth316.com/2-exhmans.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Monnin
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Cc: dblai@allstate.com
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: 60mm Greddy EGT DOES fit in Autometer 52mm pod if you enlarge
hole

<snip>
I installed the EGT gage probe inthe rear manifold with it still on
the car. I had to use a 2 ft drill bit extender for the drill and
tap. It was a tight fit but since it is UNDER (downstream) the turbo,
the steel shavings didn't go through the turbo (precats were guuted
so shavings didn't get stuck in it either. I can't understand why so
many people say this is so dangerous to do with manifold on the car.
<snip>

John Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 07:39:51 -0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: pillar-pod

Has anyone found a single pillar-pod to fit Stealths-3000gts?
Mike S 92 rt tt

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:47:56 US/Central
From: tds@brightok.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: pillar-pod

> Has anyone found a single pillar-pod to fit Stealths-3000gts?
> Mike S 92 rt tt

- ---------------------------------------------------
Until recently that is all that has ever been available.
While I had to use DSM pods heated and formed fit in 94,
(that works pretty well) they have been available
specifically for the 3S for some time now. The dual
pods are on the market now too.

Alamo, Summitt Racing (Autometer), Extreme ......

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:48:17 -0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: pillar-pod

>Has anyone found a single pillar-pod to fit Stealths-3000gts?

Extreme Motorsports has one. Check it out. I'm sure I've seen other ones
cheaper but I can't remember where.

http://www.extrememotorsports.com/gscat/gaugecup.htm

- -ROD

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 07:48:37 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Air flow...in or out???

Folks...

I appreciate the technical accuracy and we shouldn't say removing the weather-stripping (or adding rear facing hood scoops) is pushing air out of the engine bay if it's actually pulling air into the engine bay (no, I haven't tried Darren's experiment, which was suggested by others three years ago), but I believe we're missing the intent behind Sankar's original post.

The question, I believe, is how do we introduce colder ambient air (unless, perhaps, you're driving through Phoenix in August or the Mojave desert) into the intake? The average ambient air temperature here in Oregon rarely exceeds 70 degrees F. My underhood temps (not measured) must be well over 100 degrees F. Sooooo, what can we do to introduce the colder ambient air into the intake? Whether this includes removing weather-stripping, adding hood scoops, washers under the hinges, or removing the battery tray (which I recently did and allows a clear view of the pavement beneath the car) the objective seems to me to be the same unless someone is advocating that it's to our advantage that we have a sealed engine compartment and use only engine heated air for the intake. Is this the case?

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1 [mailto:x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 6:18 PM
To: ''Team3S' '
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

As an aerospace engineering student having taken courses in aerodynamics, I
have to agree with Flash here. We did a lab experiment for flow over an
aircraft wing much like what Flash just described here with the dental
floss. It's true, the flow of air should (will) actually follows a path back
into the engine bay.

- -ROD

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:50:57 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

my throwout bearing never rattled in neutral with the clutch out. ONLY when
i put the clutch in did it make a light scraping/squeeling/screeching noise.
i knew it was on the way out. took it to sears one day to get two new
tires.. get the car back and whadya know.. siezed TOB. I guess they thought
when they let the clutch out and it was vibrating they should rev higher!
barely made it home. i'll tell you that TOB was UGLY when i pulled it out.

gabe, does it just die if you're sitting stopped and put the clutch in, or
only when you're slowing down from a roll?

if you're having a problem with the car suddenly dying while slowing down to
a stop with the engine at idle or just sitting idling in neutral, clutch in
or not, i'd check the idle air control motor underneath the throttle
opening.

Omar
92 r/t

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 1:10 AM
To: Omar Malik
Cc: team3/S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

would it also cause the car to die sometimes when it is just sitting there
idling (with throwout bearing rattling like crazy)?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Omar Malik
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:37 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car to die when clutch engaged?

siezed throw out bearing could do it.. happened to me, but mine was
accompanied by a high pitched metal to metal squeel.. just a thought

Omar
92 r/t

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 07:55:10 -0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

With all the email on removing the weatherstriping/raising the back end of
the hood, I thought I send this old message by NassiriC.

edgar

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 10:19 AM
Subject: Team3S: Raise You Hood - Cool Cooling Mod

> Hood Raising Details
>
> On my last post about "low speed knock" I mentioned raising the rear of my
> hood for better cooling, I got a lot of requests for more details, so I
> figured it was worth the bandwidth to send it to the entire group.
>
> I read an article in Car Craft (July 2001, "Mustang Cold-Air Induction" p.
> 66). In the article they put a "cowl" hood on a Mustang set up for drag
> racing. They got good reductions in under hood temps (almost to ambient),
> which lead to reduced 1/4 mile times - dropped from 13.02/104 to
12.67/108.
> I figured our under hood temps where much higher then the Mustang, so a
> similar modification would help us even more, plus I was tired of opening
the
> hood and getting my eyebrows singed off.
>
> To duplicate a "cowl" hood, I moved the rear of my stock hood up about
2.25
> inches and removed the rubber gasket between the body of the car
(firewall)
> and the hood. This gave me a total gap of about 2.5 inches between the
hood
> and where it used to seal with the body of the car.
>
> This mod is VERY simple, totally reversible, basically free, and probably
> worth a few extra HP for both the drag racer and the road racer. Once you
> get the basic setup, you can switch between the stock and modified
position
> in about 15 minutes total. For those of you trying to fit a strut brace
> under the hood, this mod will provide the extra clearance you need,
however,
> switching back to the stock position would require removal of the strut
bar.
>
> Simply unbolt the 4 bolts (two each side) that bolt the hood to the
hinges,
> place a shim between the hood and hinges and then replace the stock bolts
> with slightly longer (about 1 inch longer) bolts. Note: If you only want
to
> raise the hood an inch or so, you can stick with the stock bolts. The
hardest
> part to the whole thing is finding bolts with the correct thread pattern
to
> match the stock bolts. They are not a normal thread, they have wider
> "valleys" (probably not the correct term, but I'm not a bolt expert)
between
> the threads. I got lucky and found 4 bolts that were perfect in my "nuts
and
> bolts" can in the garage. If you don't have them lying around, I'm sure
you
> can find them at the hardware store.
>
> Before you unbolt anything, scribe or mark the original hinge location on
the
> hood, this will make it easier to get the hood back into position. To
make
> it easy on yourself, don't unbolt all the bolts at once, remove one bolt
at a
> time, then replace it with the longer bolt and temporarily shim it. This
way
> you can do the whole thing by yourself without ever removing the hood.
When
> all the long bolts are in place and slightly loose, you can see the way
the
> hood moves in relation to the hinges, and it will be obvious how you
should
> shim it to get the desired increase in hood height. In my case I machined
(a
> hack-saw and belt sander) 4 aluminum shims with a slight angle in them,
> however, you can used just about piece of metal that will give you the
> correct amount of shim. Just don't used flimsy material that will
compress
> over time or become loose; even at low speeds there is a lot of force
applied
> to the hood, if it's not attached correctly it will fly off!
>
> Even with the large amount of lift I achieved, everything still clears
under
> the hood, and the front hood latch still locks in place firmly, leaving no
> gap between the front bumper cover and the leading edge of the hood. I've
> been driving around like this for about two weeks with no apparent
problem.
> The only side-effects that I've noticed are increased noise from under the
> hood, and it seems that the A/C is about 20 degrees colder, this might
just
> be in my mind, but even my fiancé commented that the A/C was freezing
cold,
> so cold that I have to turn the vents so they don't blow directly on your
> skin. Also it should be noted that this configuration will allow rain
water
> to run freely into the engine bay - 'technically' everything in the engine
> bay should be water resistant, however, I don't recommend this in very wet
> areas. I'm going to change back to stock when it starts to rain again
here
> in Sunny California.
>
> I did take the time to test this setup, I tried to duplicate the
experiment I
> read about in the magazine as closely as possible. Here are my results:
>
> I used a "instant-on" temperature sensor with a long lead and I measured
the
> air temps in several places under the hood, here are my admittedly
> non-scientific results:
>
> Conditions: The car was pre-heated before each test by driving .8 miles
in
> stop-and-go conditions, then a run from 0 - 80 mph (WOT) was made, then
> another full throttle run from 0 - 80 mph was made, it was during this
second
> run that I noted the air temps. I took two readings, one at the start of
the
> run (0 mph) and one at ~75 mph. As I mentioned above, this is not very
> scientific, but I tried to duplicate the test in the magazine as closely
as
> possible and I think the results are interesting:
>
>
> Hood in stock position - temp prob next to the air intake.
> Test 1 - average of 2 runs
> 0 mph - 101 F
> 75 mph - 112 F
>
> Hood in stock position - temp prob attached to firewall below the FPR
> solenoid (directly above the 'left' or rear turbo)
> Test 2 - one run
> 0 mph - 138 F
> 75 mph - 151 F
>
> Hood moved up ~ 2.5" - temp prob next to air intake.
> Test 3 - average of 3 runs
> 0 mph - 96 F
> 75 mph - 82 F
>
> Hood moved up ~ 2.5" - temp prob attached to firewall below the FPR
solenoid
> (directly above the 'left' or rear turbo)
> Test 4 - average of 2 runs
> 0 mph - 121 F
> 75 mph - 95 F
>
> To more accurately duplicate the effects of a cowl hood, I conducted
another
> test where I duct-taped the sides of the hood shut so that only the rear
of
> the hood was open, just as it would be on a true cowl hood. If you were
> driving around the SF Bay Area a couple of weeks ago and you saw a white
VR-4
> with its hood duct-taped in place with liberal amounts of silver tape, you
> now know why. When my fiancé came home and saw the hood 'taped' to the
car,
> the only thing she said was; "It's things like this that make the
neighbors
> think you're insane". Aesthetics aside, the results of testing the taped
> hood were very similar to test #3 and #4, indicating that the modified
hood
> position was indeed pulling air in through the opening in the rear. I
guess
> those V-8 drag racers with the huge cowl hoods knew what they were talking
> about after all.
>
> So what does this all mean? Well I think I can say that a cowl hood will
> reduce the under hood temps, leading to more HP (based on reduction of air
> inlet temps, a theoretical 12.6 hp gain should be achieved for a slightly
> modified VR-4 motor - I would estimate 20 - 25 hp is closer to the real
life
> figure) and a cooler/healthier/less detonation prone engine over all. The
> turbos and related pipes and hoses should all stay a bit cooler which
should
> extend their lives and add a little to the over-all power output.
>
> In general, this mod won't give you a huge gain in HP above and beyond
what
> you already have, however, it probably will give you a few extra ponies,
and
> help you keep the HP you already have after a lot of heavy driving when
> things get hot. The car doesn't look that bad either, it really is not
that
> noticeable (without the duct-tape), the car actually has a very aggressive
> look, raising the hood line makes it look like it has a lot more muscle.
I
> think a 'proper' cowl hood with the sides closed would look very good.
When
> it comes time to upgrade to a CF hood, I'm going to look into having a
cowl
> hood design made, rather than some of the other designs I've seen.
>
> Ok - fire away
>
> Cyrus
> SF Bay Area
> '97 VR-4
> Gutted Pre-cats
> Ported/Polished Heads
> Blitz DSBC
> HKS SMF Filter

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 15:01:18 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: pillar-pod

Autometer has made single and dual A-pillar pods specifically for our cars for
many years. I bought mine at Summit Racing in 1998.

Pic of single + dual => triple.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-apillar.htm

Isn't this like ancient news?
What we need is a web site devoted to 3S cars! :)

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To: "team3s stealth-3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: pillar-pod

Has anyone found a single pillar-pod to fit Stealths-3000gts?
Mike S 92 rt tt

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:03:32 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: R.E. EGT probe installed with manifold on car

<html><head><meta Name='keywords' Content='commtouch, pronto, mail, free email, free, branded, web based, free web based email, communications, internet, software, advertising banners, e-mail, free software'></head><body ><div align='left'><blockquote><blockquote><TT>Somebody was polite enough to privatly email me that I screwed up my 
last post.   I stated that I was able to install the EGT probe on the 
rear manifold downstream of the Turbo, that was incorrect.  With the 
rear manifold on the car I was able to install the EGT probe in the 
center exhaust runner, Due to space constraints I was not able to get 
it back into the area were the 3 runners meet.  This is UPSTREAM of 
the turbo and any loose steel shavings could go throught the turbo.   
Since I drilled from the bottom I was able to get any shavings out.   
But this is still a riskier way to do this.  The best way is still 
with the manifolds off the car. 
 
Anyone know effect of EGT prob being in center exhaust runner and not 
back were three meet?  The problem I see is that I really am only 
monitoring EGT of center cylinder.   
 
P.S.  EGT temperatures hit 850 deg C when boosting to 15 psi on hard 
runs.  The car was a 97 VR-4 with stock turbos and stock fuel system, 
gutted precats, full ATR downpipe and exhaust, Fidneza  flywheel. 
 
John Monnin 
1991 VR-4