Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 29
2002 Volume 01 : Number
826
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Apr 2002 07:19:29 -0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine dress up
This must be a sweet topic still....I have
made 10 new designs for
the plates....check them out at
3sxperformance.com
bobk.
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
WDBO39@erols.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: engine dress up
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:03:33
-0400
>I know this came up a little over a week ago but since then I
had to
>find
>another server for my web page, in case anyone is
interested and
>might try
>to look for my old page, here is the
link to my new web page
address.
>
>http://www.omni-vr4.com/DBest/
>
>I also
have six new spark plug plate designs that I hope to have
>pictures
>post, very soon, 3 are for the Spyder, one: VR4, 3000GT
VR4 and a
>stealth
>plate.
>
>And thanks Rick for the
good words, you can see a picture of Rick
>plenum on
>my web page,
it did come out very nice. I also polish fuel rails
>$25
for
>one $40 for two, or powder coat $20 for one $35 for two, hope to
have
>pictures of them up on my site
shortly.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Best
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:50:22
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
52mm EGT with peak hold?
Hi all,
I'm looking for a decent
EGT. I have the triple 52mm gauge pod for its home
and would like the
EGT gauge to:
1. have a peak hold feature
2. preferably read up to
1200 C
I have seen the Greddy EGT 60mm but I have heard it won't fit in
the 52mm
gauge pod.
Anyone have any suggestions? TIA
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:56:35
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?
Dave,
I've never seen a peak hold
EGT gauge but the 3SXPerformance.com site
had some custom-made dual EGT
gauges (and dual water/oil temp or dual
oil temp/oil pressure, etc.).
This is great as it measures two things
in the space of one and this is
crucial for the center gauge pod when
you want to get the most out of the
space and not do the install more
than once.
Good prices too as
compared to Summit, Pegasus, CarParts.com, etc.
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:59:08
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?
> I'm looking for a decent EGT.
I have the triple 52mm gauge pod for its
home
> and would like the EGT
gauge to:
>
> 1. have a peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read
up to 1200 C
>
> I have seen the Greddy EGT 60mm but I have heard it
won't fit in the 52mm
> gauge pod.
If you don't mind the price, you
can get dual EGT from SPA Technique in
their LCD electronic
gauges.
$445 for dual EGT with probes (tap-in style, not clamp-on).
You should be
able to use any regular automotive probe (Westach sells the
clamp-on if you
want to use that on the front manifold).
Now you can
get amber illumination to match the stock 3/S lighting.
Adjustable
brightness, peak hold, warning light, 52mm, etc.
http://www.spatechnique.comI have
the Boost/EGT version but it isn't installed yet (hopefully
this
week).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:15:20
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?
> and would like the EGT gauge
to:
>
> 1. have a peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read up to
1200 C
Why 1200C? That's almost 2200 degrees F. K-type
thermocouples are best
used between 583C and 1093C (according to Exhaust Gas
Technologies). AFAIK,
the SPA Techniques gauge uses an amplifier that
converts 10mv to 1v, 50mv to
5v, etc. and the gauge ranges from 0v to 5v so
you could read up to your
1200C (50mv). If you are interested in this
gauge, check with the SPA
Techniques guys about what you want to do to make
sure it'll actually work,
or I can dig out my spec sheet (if I can find
it).
Hope that helps...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:31:04
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
engine dress up
But I only charge $55 for polished and $60 for polished
and powder coated
and I have 6 new designs and also offered custom plate
designs. Why pay
more?
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To:
<
WDBO39@erols.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 29, 2002 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress
up
> This must be a sweet topic still....I have made 10 new designs
for
> the plates....check them out at 3sxperformance.com
>
>
bobk.
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From:
WDBO39@erols.com> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress up
> Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:03:33
-0400
>
> >I know this came up a little over a week ago but
since then I had to
> >find
> >another server for my web
page, in case anyone is interested and
> >might try
> >to
look for my old page, here is the link to my new web page address.
>
>
> >http://www.omni-vr4.com/DBest/
> >
> >I also
have six new spark plug plate designs that I hope to have
>
>pictures
> >post, very soon, 3 are for the Spyder, one: VR4, 3000GT
VR4 and a
> >stealth
> >plate.
> >
> >And
thanks Rick for the good words, you can see a picture of Rick
>
>plenum on
> >my web page, it did come out very nice. I also
polish fuel rails
> >$25 for
> >one $40 for two, or powder
coat $20 for one $35 for two, hope to have
> >pictures of them up on my
site shortly.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Dave
Best
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:29:32
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Warning about Dyna-Batt
I have heard several complaints now of
people having problmes with their Dyna-
Batt batteries. For those that don't
know, and the seller Performance
Distributors will not tell you, the
Dyna-Batt is a Hawker Energy Genesis G16EP
sealed lead acid battery or a
Odyssey PC680 also made by Hawker, with factory
labels removed and a
Dyna-Batt label added - along with a 100% mark up.
Complete details on these
batteries are on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htmThough
I have not had problems with my Dyna-Batt, I recently purchased a PC925
as
part of my project to move the battery to the rear compartment. The owner's
manual that came with the PC925 covers the PC680 (Dyna-Batt) and has the
following warning.
"Never attempt to remove the top decal cover of
the Genesis or Odyssey battery
because this will cause the battery to fail."
It also states "REMOVING THE
LABELED COVER" ... "WILL VOID YOUR
WARRANTY".
In consideration of this I peeled back a very small amount of
the corner of
the Dyna-Batt decal to find that the Hawker Energy decal was
removed. The
decal must be part of the vented and sealed design of the
battery. Because
there is no way to replenish lost water in the battery, any
venting of water
vapor, oxygen, or hydrogen, will reduce battery life. Maybe
this is why some
people are having problems.
Performance Distributors
also does not provide any information about charging
the Dyna-Batt other
than saying "don't overcharge it". I suspect many owners
may be using
standard automotive-type battery chargers that exceed 15 volts
(the two I
have do) and therefore reducing battery life. With this battery,
charging
voltage should not exceed 15 volts unless the battery internal
temperature
is below 10ºC (50ºF). See the temperature-compensated charging
chart in my
web page above.
If the exorbitant price tag is not enough to dissuade
any of you from buying
the Dyna-Batt, the warranty violations and complete
lack of instructions for
proper care should convince you not to purchase the
Dyna-Batt from Performance
Distributors. Yes I know, I announced the
Dyna-Batt to you all about a year
ago. So those that have bought one can
cuss me out if you want. Hey I paid
$155 for one of these! Hopefully the
information here and on my web page will
keep others from making the mistake
I did. And if you have one already, the
information on my web page will help
you make it last longer.
The PC680 is available for only $70 and is the
exact same battery as the Dyna-
Batt. Other sealed lead acid batteries for
our cars are also listed on my web
page.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:24:15
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warning about Dyna-Batt
thanks for the info Jeff
A
main point you emphasized seems to be (not!) using a battery charger
to
charge them up. For those of us who drive our cars year round, this
is not
an issue because of the alternator's characteristics,
correct?
So if we buy the Odyssey PC680, then it will work fine? Do
these other
batteries' terminals fit with the stock clamps? If not,
does anyone know
where to buy adapters?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:33:06
-0700
From: Jack <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
Well, since you bashed me
publicly, i feel i must defend myself, otherwise
i wouldn't bother replying
to these comments.
At 11:19 PM 4/28/02 -0500, Todd D.Shelton
wrote:
>Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),
You never heard of
anybody changing they're name before?
>And the fun time to install, I
must say that this is ludicrous!
Fun time to install?? My kit comes with
everything you need for a bolt on
installation. The only thing you have to
remove is the front bumper and
crash bar. The only modification needed is
drilling 4 small holes in the
crash bar for the cooler mounts. What is
ludicrous about that?
>Doesn't even come with steel braided lines
....
No, but it does come with hose that is tested to 350 degrees, and
500psi.
They also have banjo hose ends crimped on. The crimps are rated at
1000psi.
The problem with pretty braided lines is that by the time you put
the
adaptor fittings and 90 degree hose ends on, you don't have enough space
for the crossmember that is directly below the oil filter.
>For
Example: A Mocal 32 Row (all alluminum - braised into
>a one
piece unit with oilways containing turbulators, oilways
>are interspaced
with corrugations proving airways between the
>plates and louvered.
Tested by immersion to 170 psi)
>
>Top Model: $260
Well,
i'not familiar with all the fancy terms here, but the core I'm using
is also
all aluminum, and is a dual pass design. It was designed for the
high
demands of rotary engines, and is a factory Mazda part. A quote from a
company that has been racing RX-7's for many years states "all the
aftermarket coolers we have tried have not been able to cool as well as the
factory cooler. We recommend staying with the OEM unit". If you were to buy
this cooler direct from Mazda, you would pay more than i am selling the
whole kit for. As an added bonus, it fits perfectly in the bumper
opening
>You gotta be kidding Wayne/Jack ....
No, I'm
not
>Maybe I should go buy a few Motels and resale
>them for
$700+?!
My profit is not that much, considering the time I've spent
making this a
direct bolt-on kit, and also the time spent writing a
comprehensive
installation guide.
>- tds
If you have any
further comments, please send them to me directly............
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:44:35
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
Jack,
It is
unfortunate that people who want to bring products to the 3/S
market are
subjected to this bullshit.
Let me apologize to you from those of us that
like to hear about
these types of opportunities.
Technical content:
If
a by pass valve is whistling, is it set too loose ?
- -----Original
Message---------------------------------
From: Jack
[mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:33 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
Well, since you bashed
me publicly, i feel i must defend myself, otherwise
i wouldn't bother
replying to these comments.
At 11:19 PM 4/28/02 -0500, Todd D.Shelton
wrote:
>Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),
You never heard of
anybody changing they're name before?
>And the fun time to install, I
must say that this is ludicrous!
Fun time to install?? My kit comes with
everything you need for a bolt on
installation. The only thing you have to
remove is the front bumper and
crash bar. The only modification needed is
drilling 4 small holes in the
crash bar for the cooler mounts. What is
ludicrous about that?
>Doesn't even come with steel braided lines
....
No, but it does come with hose that is tested to 350 degrees, and
500psi.
They also have banjo hose ends crimped on. The crimps are rated at
1000psi.
The problem with pretty braided lines is that by the time you put
the
adaptor fittings and 90 degree hose ends on, you don't have enough space
for the crossmember that is directly below the oil filter.
>For
Example: A Mocal 32 Row (all alluminum - braised into
>a one
piece unit with oilways containing turbulators, oilways
>are interspaced
with corrugations proving airways between the
>plates and louvered.
Tested by immersion to 170 psi)
>
>Top Model: $260
Well,
i'not familiar with all the fancy terms here, but the core I'm using
is also
all aluminum, and is a dual pass design. It was designed for the
high
demands of rotary engines, and is a factory Mazda part. A quote from a
company that has been racing RX-7's for many years states "all the
aftermarket coolers we have tried have not been able to cool as well as the
factory cooler. We recommend staying with the OEM unit". If you were to buy
this cooler direct from Mazda, you would pay more than i am selling the
whole kit for. As an added bonus, it fits perfectly in the bumper
opening
>You gotta be kidding Wayne/Jack ....
No, I'm
not
>Maybe I should go buy a few Motels and resale
>them for
$700+?!
My profit is not that much, considering the time I've spent
making this a
direct bolt-on kit, and also the time spent writing a
comprehensive
installation guide.
>- tds
If you have any
further comments, please send them to
me
directly............
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:02:04
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils
OH PLEASE, not another one
of these threads if this turns into another penis
measuring contest and how
we are getting screwed take this OFF THE LIST.
Now onto the tech content
of my email, I was the one working on making the
ACCELL Buick GN set up
work standalone for our cars. I currently have the
GN Coil pack along with
the MSD DIS wiring adapter (makes the coils plugs
right into the DIS-6)
I am now at the point of figuring out the wiring, I
have several connectors
on order from MSD to fabricate a harness that will
plug into the MSD adapter
and then plug into the factory wiring. As soon as
these connectors
arrive I will be attempting to create something the average
DYI'r can
make.
I do apologize for taking so long but I really wasn't expecting to
grenade
my motor at the beginning of this month :/
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 1:45 PM
>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
>
>
Jack,
>
> It is unfortunate that people who want to bring products
to the 3/S
> market are subjected to this bullshit.
> Let me
apologize to you from those of us that like to hear about
> these types of
opportunities.
> Technical content:
> If a by pass valve is
whistling, is it set too loose ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:07:46
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils
Russell,
So you are
of the opinion that we do need to run MSD with the Accel
coils ?
What
destroyed your engine ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:19:25
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils
Undecided as
yet, Using the MSD DIS will take care of 1/2 of the wiring
issue then
you just have to wire up the DIS to the cars stock transistors.
What I am
trying to avoid is the cutting of the factory wiring if that goals
appears to
be unattainable then I will go hary carey on the factory wires
;)
What
destroyed my engine was the shot stock engine mounts the engine rocked
under
acceleration and pulled the Solenoid feed hose of the Y pipe.
Next
light I stomped on it again and I felt a hard buck + heard a loud
pop.....
Got to where I needed to be popped the hood and saw the hose
dangling. Two
of three front bank pistons have broken rings/ring lands
(only have the
front head off currently)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:49:56
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re:Team3S: Front
mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> > -----Original
Message---------------------------------
> > From: Jack
[mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
> > Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:33
AM
> > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> >
>
> Well, since you bashed me publicly, i feel i must defend myself,
otherwise
> >
> > i wouldn't bother replying to these
comments.
> >
> > At 11:19 PM 4/28/02 -0500, Todd D.Shelton
wrote:
> > >Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),
> >
>
> You never heard of anybody changing they're name before?
> >
> > >And the fun time to install, I must say that this is
ludicrous!
> >
> > Fun time to install?? My kit comes with
everything you need for a bolt on
> > installation. The only thing you
have to remove is the front bumper and
> > crash bar. The only
modification needed is drilling 4 small holes in the
> > crash bar for
the cooler mounts. What is ludicrous about that?
> >
> >
>Doesn't even come with steel braided lines ....
> >
> >
No, but it does come with hose that is tested to 350 degrees, and 500psi.
> > They also have banjo hose ends crimped on. The crimps are rated
at
> > 1000psi.
> > The problem with pretty braided lines is
that by the time you put the
> > adaptor fittings and 90 degree hose
ends on, you don't have enough space
> > for the crossmember that is
directly below the oil filter.
> >
> > >For Example:
A Mocal 32 Row (all alluminum - braised into
> > >a one piece
unit with oilways containing turbulators, oilways
> > >are
interspaced with corrugations proving airways between the
> >
>plates and louvered. Tested by immersion to 170 psi)
> >
>
> > >Top Model: $260
> >
> > Well, i'not
familiar with all the fancy terms here, but the core I'm using
> >
> > is also all aluminum, and is a dual pass design. It was designed
for the
> > high demands of rotary engines, and is a factory Mazda
part. A quote from
> > a
> > company that has been racing
RX-7's for many years states "all the
> > aftermarket coolers we have
tried have not been able to cool as well as
> > the
> >
factory cooler. We recommend staying with the OEM unit". If you were to
>
> buy
> > this cooler direct from Mazda, you would pay more than i
am selling the
> > whole kit for. As an added bonus, it fits perfectly
in the bumper opening
> >
> > >You gotta be kidding
Wayne/Jack ....
> >
> > No, I'm not
> >
>
> My profit is not that much, considering the time I've spent making this a
> > direct bolt-on kit, and also the time spent writing a
comprehensive
> > installation guide.
> >
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
It's no
surprise that the only one apologizing and running
to your defense is the
same person that constantly hawks $300 strut
bars that are worth about 1/2
that price and makes up derogatory and
false claims about the competition
.....
This appears to be the same type of scam.
Most of us
have been modding the 3S (8.5 years for me)
way too long to buy into this
bunk.
Your $750 oil cooler kit isn't ludicrous because the install
is
difficult - it's because it costs about twice as much as
the biggest (much
bigger), baddest oil coolers on the market designed,
built and manufactured
by those that specialize only in oil coolers.
There isn't too much that
isn't difficult to install on our cars
when it comes to mods - the fact that
your cooler is a PIA to install
just adds insult to injury because of the
price.
You haven't come close to answering the questions
concerning
specs and I doubt very many of us are willing to believe
that
the puny OEM Mazda oil cooler you are marketing for $700 is
better
than the monster sized aftermarket coolers available from
specialized
aftermarket companies just because you say so and want us to send
you
money.
Any owners foolish enough to believe this "Mazda OEM cooler
is the
best ever" nonsense, I urge you to price the top coolers on the
market
before wasting $500+ dollars.
Take note of the size of the
cooler that is recommended for various
HP levels. Many companies
specify certain models for certain
HP levels like 300hp, 450 HP, 600HP, 700HP
etc
Summitt Racing, Jegs, Racer Parts Wholesale .....
Once you see
what is available from the top oil cooler manufacturers
in the world, go take
a look at the pics/limited information provided for
Wayne's/Jack's $700 puny
oil cooler.
Then come back and tell me I'm wrong and why.
Provide some
kind of tangable proof for a change.
- - tds Founding Member of the
Gouge Patrol
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using
BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:58:50
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
Todd,
No one ever
said anything bad about anyone else's product except
you.
And I'm not
defending his product, just his right to offer it for
sale with out some
asshole starting in on him.
If the shoe fits, wear it :
)
Technical content:
The whistle in the by pass valve occurs during
acceleration and
deceleration - around 3,500 to 4,500 RPM.
Any ideas on
the cause ? It is the TurboXS H-34 and has two
washers
installed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:13:21
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Borla or ATR?
Hello, the newbie here again. I've been trying to
decide whether to get the
Borla or ATR cat-back for my '94 VR-4. I'm kinda
confused on the tip size of
these 2 systems. Some vendors list the Borla as
having 3" tips while others
list it as 4". Ditto for the ATR. I know there's
plenty of you out there
with either one of these systems so what are the
correct tip sizes and any
recommendations? Thanks.
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:19:31
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S:
Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> Todd,
>
> No one
ever said anything bad about anyone else's product except
> you.
>
And I'm not defending his product, just his right to offer it for
> sale
with out some asshole starting in on him.
> If the shoe fits, wear
it : )
We both know I can pull up archives from the list and 3SI
where
you proclaim the overpriced strut bar to outperform all others
-
even though you have never tested or even used the others - much
less
provided any data proving anything.
If someone offers a product and it is
grossly overpriced without cause, reason
or explanation - then we have a
right to ask why.
I defend the rights of the customer to ask why without
some asshole trying to
shield/coverup possible/probable fraud and/or gouging
and then continue to hawk
said product on the owner's list without question
endlessly. If the shoe fits,
wear it : )
> Technical
content:
> The whistle in the by pass valve occurs during acceleration
and
> deceleration - around 3,500 to 4,500 RPM.
> Any ideas on the
cause ? It is the TurboXS H-34 and has two washers
>
installed.
Maybe it's an inferior product. The TurboXS only cost
1/2 as much as
the "good" brands. It probably doesn't perform near as
well as any of the
others but of course there's no test data to prove that
which you don't require
anyway. You get what you pay for ....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:24:14
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my daily
dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He held the
pipe on whilst I tightened the clamp. (It's amazing how our cars fascinate
cops. I got stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see
the car. But I digress.)
Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe
on? I've read various solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to
wedging a board twixt the pipe and the battery.
What works? Gotta fix it
quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex this weekend.
Rich/slow
old poop
DSBC set to 15 psi max.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:40:48
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
So you get what you pay for
applies to BPV's but not strut tower
bars ?
Please do pull up any negative
thing said about anyone else's
product by anyone except you.
Be careful
that shoe doesn't fit up your ass : )
Technical content:
What BPV is
suggested other than the TurboXS brand ?
And for what reason.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
tds@brightok.net
[mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 8:20 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> Todd,
>
> No one ever said anything bad about anyone else's product
except
> you.
> And I'm not defending his product, just his right to
offer it for
> sale with out some asshole starting in on him.
> If
the shoe fits, wear it : )
We both know I can pull up archives from
the list and 3SI where
you proclaim the overpriced strut bar to outperform
all others -
even though you have never tested or even used the others -
much
less provided any data proving anything.
If someone offers a
product and it is grossly overpriced without cause,
reason
or explanation
- then we have a right to ask why.
I defend the rights of the customer to
ask why without some asshole trying
to
shield/coverup possible/probable
fraud and/or gouging and then continue to
hawk
said product on the
owner's list without question endlessly. If the shoe
fits,
wear
it : )
> Technical content:
> The whistle in the by pass
valve occurs during acceleration and
> deceleration - around 3,500 to
4,500 RPM.
> Any ideas on the cause ? It is the TurboXS H-34 and has
two washers
> installed.
Maybe it's an inferior product. The
TurboXS only cost 1/2 as much as
the "good" brands. It probably
doesn't perform near as well as any of the
others but of course there's no
test data to prove that which you don't
require
anyway. You get
what you pay for ....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:43:23
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
Rich,
I've also heard
of a tennis ball fix.
The ball is inserted between the Y-pipe and
battery.
You may want to spring for an after market y-pipe or at
least
T-clamps.
- -----Original
Message--------------------------------------------------
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 1:24
PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
Blew the Y-pipe off today,
during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
highway patrolman stopped by to
assist. He held the pipe on whilst I
tightened the clamp. (It's amazing
how our cars fascinate cops. I got
stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once,
because he just wanted to see the car.
But I digress.)
Anybody got a
good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various
solutions in the
archives, ranging from using glue to wedging a board twixt
the pipe and the
battery.
What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica
Motorplex this
weekend.
Rich/slow old poop
DSBC set to 15 psi
max.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:49:30
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Keeping the Y-Pipe on
Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry, then
tighten the clamp with
a socket and rachet, ¼" drive will do.
Or
--- use the tennis ball mod --- jam a tennis ball between the battery
and
pipe.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:03:43
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S:
Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> So you get what you pay for
applies to BPV's but not strut tower
> bars ?
> Please do pull up
any negative thing said about anyone else's
> product by anyone except
you.
> Be careful that shoe doesn't fit up your ass : )
>
>
Technical content:
> What BPV is suggested other than the TurboXS brand
?
> And for what reason.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
LOL! I
think I've made my point! And now we all know
where the shoe
is.
While you were trying to "decypher" my post and
conceive new
(but unoriginal) insults, I have
been making phone calls and gathering
parts.
I will be installing a new *SETRAB* oil cooler on
my
StealthTT. It will be bigger, better and *much*
less expensive than the
puny $700 Mazda OEM cooler.
It should take a couple of weeks to gather
parts,
install etc. I will NOT be removing the front
end to install
either.
Expect an update with links to my digital pics.
Good luck
with your shoe and BPV .....
Maybe you could buy the $700 stock Mazda oil
cooler and
install while you're under the hood?!
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:15:43
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
Todd,
You must be a
very unhappy person to have to try to bring others
down to your level all the
time.
Technical content:
What BPV's is used most often with a BPU set
up ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:21:39
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
Could we get some technical content
into this rhubarb?
For example, have any of you oil cooler builders, buyers,
or researchers come across data or information on these topics:
1. The
oil pressure needs of our engines, and how this might be affected by adding a
larger cooler. Can the oil pump handle an extra quart or two of oil circulating
around far, far away?
2. The effect on blocking the radiator with a big
fat oil cooler. Will water temps go up as oil temps go down?
3. Or vice
versa. What is the potential cooling effect on 2nd gen engines, which tend to
run hotter at road courses; e.g., will a big oil cooler also keep water temps
down?
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:39:41
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
Rich:
T-Bolt clamp is nice idea,
though I never got one myself. Otherwise,
MacGyver can do it this
way:
You can encircle the end of the Y-pipe by the throttlebody with 1 or
2
Zip-ties; then through those, at right angles going out toward
the
driverside take 2-4 more Zip ties and have each zipped around a
hose,
bracket etc and tighten them so they "preload" the Y-pipe--they PULL
it
toward the throttlebody. It doesn't have to be perfectly symmetrical
in
pull around the circumference of the Y-pipe; the idea is to get
some
preload, to an amount that (along with the clamping power of the
stock
setup) boost can't develop enough force to overcome both.
When you
need to take Y-pipe off, just snip the 2-3 connector ties...they
are
cheap.
Works as well as my old Bungee Cord Preload setup (patent pending)
but looks
a bit nicer especially with "stealth" black zip-ties ;)
Jack
T.
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
3S-Racers: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
> Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my
daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He
held the pipe on whilst I
tightened the clamp. (It's amazing how our
cars fascinate cops. I got
stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he
just wanted to see the car.
But I digress.)
> Anybody got a good cure
for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various
solutions in the archives,
ranging from using glue to wedging a board twixt
the pipe and the
battery.
> What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica
Motorplex
this weekend.
> Rich/slow old poop
> DSBC set to 15 psi
max.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:38:25
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
I will take a crack at these
questions rich
1) If done correctly an upgraded cooler should not
affect oil pump life,
i.e. remove those GODDAM banjo bolts that was mitsu's
answer to true
connector fittings. I hate banjo fittings thus far I
have found two on the
fuel system, two on the oil cooler (haven't gotten
around to the oil filter
side of things YET)
2) I believe it should
help more than it hurts due to the fact oil doesn't
as readily shed its heat
(not sure of the term for this) So more surface
area to cool will increase
heat transfer.
3) I want to say yes it will help water temps slightly but
in all honesty
you are better off improving the cooling system first in this
order
a) run a 60% water to 40% coolant mix with one bottle of
water
wetter thrown in.
b) improve airflow across the radiator and
decrease under hood temps
(hood venting of some sort)
c) figure out how to
make the factory fans stay on all the time on
the track (maybe a piggy back
switch or unplug something that will
cause the fan to stay running?)
d) A
improved radiator like the PPE unit or have something custom
fabbed
e)
Larger oil cooler
Again all of this is in IMHO and most of these ideas
came from the MKIV road
racers I spoke with and who were kind enough to take
detailed pics. A good
link to allot of my suggestions can be found at
boostaholic.com, site
belongs to Andi Baritchi (one of the TX MKIV guys and
an avid road racer)
give those a whirl and report back.
Oh Yeah Jack T
have you gone to a course since making the changes we
were
discussing?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:47:00
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)
> Technical
content:
> What BPV's is used most often with a BPU set up ?
At
this point the most bang for the buck seems to be the 1G DSM bypass
valve
with the adaptor flange for the 2G DSM to use the 1G valve. Works
fine, but
on '94 and later 3/S cars might require some creative wire-tying to
prevent
it from hitting the shifter linkages (or more precisely the huge-ass
weights
that Getrag threw on there).
Holds boost good, vents back into
the intake, relatively inexpensive, no
fabrication necessary.
$129
from Extreme Motorsports
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/icpipe.htm$140
from Buschur Racing
http://www.buschurracing.com$125
from Diamond Star Specialties (and you get a strip of Zots candy, too!)
http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/secgenprice.htmlI'm
sure there are others who supply them, those are just the guys who I
like to
give my money to.
On a side-note, Extreme Motorsports now has a CNC
machined aluminum true
harmonic damper that also fits the 6G72. It is
$349. Their description
reads:
"Lightweight CNC Billet Racing
Damper... this harmonic damper also works as
a underdrive pulley thats helps
increase usable horsepower while protecting
your engine. They are
hard-anodized for durability and are a direct bolt-on.
The 4G63 is an inline
four that is susceptible to harmonic resonation,
especially at high RPMs and
in race applications."
I don't have any firsthand experience with the
part, so please don't flame
me. :-) I'd assume this is similar in
design to the one that Buschur
Racing offers.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:57:38
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Front mount oil coolers avail. soon
I think a bigger oil cooler is a
great idea. My 94 with FMIC was in the red
zone roadracing in a 38
degree day, and still uses the stock oil cooler.
Anything that gets heat out
of the engine is a help, and if it uses the side
air intakes (not the front,
where the AC condenser, radiator, and for some
the FMIC is ALREADY), that is
best.
Maybe one could find the biggest excellent quality lower cost
aftermarket
oil cooler that will fit in the driverside area where the stock
oil cooler
is, and figure out the install etc. and if somebody makes a kit
with
fittings, instructions etc, more power to them.
I had to weld AN
fittings onto my stock 93 cooler because winter salt/rust
ate through the
stockpipes near the oil cooler and it developed a leak.
This is a worthy
idea, and if we find a "cheaper but best" way that would be
great. I
tend to doubt Mazda has a "lock" on oil cooler technology.
IMO
the more frontal area the better (as long as the internal design uses
an
efficient method of heat exchange).
Jack T.
From: Jack aka
Wayne [snips]
> Next week i'm moving back to Minnesota; will be
>
operating Shop (Mitsubishi Specialties). One of first things
> is front
mount oil cooler kit for both Turbo, N/A 3000GT/Stealths.
> The prototype
is working on my car; i need to finish installation manual.
> The kit is
pricey, most of cost is cooler @ $465.
> I have not measured oil
temp. As time permits, i will install oil temp
guage, post
results.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:01:13
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Front mount oil coolers
On Mon, Apr 29, 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
>
3. What is the potential cooling effect on 2nd gen engines, which tend
to
> run hotter at road courses; e.g., will a big oil cooler also keep
water
> temps down?
Once upon a time, some adventurous ppl were
considering a hood mod. This
requires the hood lock to disengaged but
the hook to be in place, which leads
to a small opening to let air into the
hood. The hood is fastened with two
additional hooks (the mod part of
this mod) to supplement the center hook.
This would prevent the hood from
getting
airborne...
*******************************************************************************
It's
hard to believe that something which is neither seen nor
felt can do
so much harm.
That's true. But an idea can't be seen or felt. And
that's
what kept the Troglytes in the mines all these centuries.
A
mistaken idea.
-- Vanna and Kirk, "The Cloud
Minders," stardate
5819.0
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:08:52
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
Air under the front of the
hood..is a very bad thing.
It reduces radiator flow.
A larger gap
at the rear of the hood..would be a good thing...or anything
else that pulls
air out from under the hood/behind the radiator.
Cool air under the hood
WILL help intake temps, but theres easier ways to
solve that. Cool air
under the hood will NOT cool the motor more...the
motor will only be as cool
as the oil and water in it..both of which are
unaffected (if not harmed) by
adding air behind the radiator.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:07:56
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Front mount oil coolers
1) Oil pressure would not be
significantly affected, and if it was it might
be a touch higher, as larger
oil cooler area should have less "backpressure"
resisting flow.
I seem to
recall the stock TURBO cars have a bypassing oil cooler system, it
doesn't
send full flow through the cooler but only part of it. If it were
full
flow, then AGAIN the larger the cooler, the MORE flow would be.
2) If
this goes in front of the radiator, I won't get one. That area
is
already overtaxed with the AC condenser (blocks airflow volume even if AC
no
on), the radiator, and FMIC for some people.
3) I am not
convinced 2G really run hotter. The mechanicals are the same.
The
thermostat would be WIDE open at high temps so cooler thermostat would
do
nothing, unless the annulus was bigger on earlier cars allowing more
flow
through the thermostat. I doubt they have different sized
thermostat
"holes". The frontal area of the radiator air inlet is very
similar.
Radiator is same, AC condenser...don't know if switch to R134 led to
a more
restrictive/bigger condenser, but could be factor if so. Still,
we're
marginal on cooling at higher hp levels, so largest oil cooler
practically
possible can only help overheat probs.
Russell: No,
that event was April 20-21 and did not go to another event
this last weekend
:(
JT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:29:34
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Front mount oil coolers
On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> A larger gap at the rear of the hood..would be a good thing...or
anything
> else that pulls air out from under the hood/behind the
radiator.
There were yet another set of adventurous folks who came up
with the creative
weather-strip mod, which involves ripping out the rubber
strip at the rear
underside of the hood. I'm not sure what the
quantitative gains are, but
since this was a simple mod, I've already done
this in my car.
> Cool air under the hood WILL help intake temps, but
theres easier ways to
> solve that. Cool air under the hood will NOT
cool the motor more...the
> motor will only be as cool as the oil and
water in it..both of which are
> unaffected (if not harmed) by adding air
behind the radiator.
This makes sense.
-
-sankar
*******************************************************************************
It's
hard to believe that something which is neither seen nor
felt can do
so much harm.
That's true. But an idea can't be seen or felt. And
that's
what kept the Troglytes in the mines all these centuries.
A
mistaken idea.
-- Vanna and Kirk, "The Cloud
Minders," stardate
5819.0
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:39:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
> weather-strip mod, which
involves ripping out the rubber strip at the rear
> underside of the
hood. I'm not sure what the quantitative gains are, but
> since this
was a simple mod, I've already done this in my car.
- ---
Its not a
new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
and raise the
hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:36:06
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
I was actually thinking about
something like this also (since the hood is
sitting on top of a towel on the
roof of my car) My thinking was more along
the lines of what the TRD hood for
MKIV is, this would improve under hood
temps and hopefully create a slight
vacuum effect helping to pull more air
through the radiator. Another Option
is to do a hood scoop like found
standard on the Euro MKIV's and more and
more modded US cars are putting
this on also. A link to a bunch of pics
of this is below
http://www.boostaholic.com/supra/pics.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:43:38
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Front mount oil coolers
I've done this mod, and it definitely helped
my water temps. I
overheated and blew a water pump last summer at
Willow Springs (105
degrees during the day!!!) and even after 35 minutes
running through the
canyon roads at full throttle, temps are even less than
what they
normally were before I removed the stripping.
Plus, as a
little safe guard against rain water, i ran a small bead of
silicone along
the upper surface of the deck under the hood by the
windshield, to help
divert any water that might flow down from the
windshield. It helps
protect the elctronics, solenoids, etc, on the
firewall.
Damon
Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>>weather-strip mod, which involves ripping out the rubber
strip at the rear
>>underside of the hood. I'm not sure what the
quantitative gains are, but
>>since this was a simple mod, I've already
done this in my car.
>>
>
> Its not a new idea, to go
farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
> and raise the hood
another 1-1/5" in back as well.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:45:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
Looks good dont
it.
Unfortunately little of what TRD does or sells, increases performanec
in
any way at all.
TRD brake pads: OTShelf Performance Friction
street pads
TRD boost guage: POS Autometer 'ring' lit guage
..the list
goes on.
It does add air, to what useful purpose..dunno. Doubt
it.
On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> I was
actually thinking about something like this also (since the hood is
>
sitting on top of a towel on the roof of my car) My thinking was more
along
> the lines of what the TRD hood for MKIV is, this would improve
under hood
> temps and hopefully create a slight vacuum effect helping to
pull more air
> through the radiator. Another Option is to do a hood scoop
like found
> standard on the Euro MKIV's and more and more modded US cars
are putting
> this on also. A link to a bunch of pics of this is
below
>
>
http://www.boostaholic.com/supra/pics.html-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:51:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Damon's hood mod.
Damon: A road track is nothing like
canyon runs.
Youre not high-load/low speed a LOT out there, like you are
on a track.
Example: The celica never overheats on the road, it WILL
overheat in about
3 laps on a road track tho.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:58:34
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Front mount oil coolers
On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> > weather-strip mod,
[snip]
>
> Its not a new
idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
> and raise
the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.
So, now that we have created a
pathway for air to leave from under the hood,
what are the other issues with
revisiting the open-hood mod? Just
brain-storming and piquing the
brains of the experts...
- -sankar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:08:26
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Raising the Rear of the Hood WAS: Front mount oil
coolers
> > Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers
to
> the hood hinge, and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as
well.
>
> So, now that we have created a pathway for air to leave
from
> under the hood,
> what are the other issues with revisiting
the open-hood mod? Just
> brain-storming and piquing the brains of
the experts...
Another thought... isn't the base of the windshield a
*high* pressure area
and thus, wouldn't lifting the rear of the hood result
in air going *into*
the engine bay, down along the firewall, and under the
car? If so, wouldn't
this add to underhood pressure and decrease
radiator flow?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:09:35
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)
On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Matt
Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
wrote:
> > Technical content:
> > What BPV's is used most
often with a BPU set up ?
>
> At this point the most bang for the
buck seems to be the 1G DSM bypass valve
> with the adaptor flange for the
2G DSM to use the 1G valve. Works fine, but
> on '94 and later 3/S
cars might require some creative wire-tying to prevent
> it from hitting
the shifter linkages (or more precisely the huge-ass weights
> that Getrag
threw on there).
I have the 1G bpv installed in my 2nd gen car, and there
are no interference
issues with the shifter linkage.
> Holds boost
good, vents back into the intake, relatively inexpensive, no
> fabrication
necessary.
I've run intake pressure tests to check for any leaks, and
this valve easily
holds the pressure upto 20psi. Well, the only leak
that was detected was at
the throttle body; hence the statement that the bpv
wasn't leaking. Since
this unit is a bypass valve, if it would leak any
boost, it would leak it back
into the intake. So, will a pressure test
detect it?
- -sankar
'97 "LW-FLYN" VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:20:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Raising the Rear of the Hood WAS: Front mount oil
coolers
The hood itself is..but not the cowl area.
On Mon, 29 Apr
2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
> > > Its not a new idea, to go
farther, you can add washers to
> > the hood hinge, and raise the hood
another 1-1/5" in back as well.
> >
> > So, now that we have
created a pathway for air to leave from
> > under the hood,
>
> what are the other issues with revisiting the open-hood mod?
Just
> > brain-storming and piquing the brains of the
experts...
>
> Another thought... isn't the base of the windshield
a *high* pressure area
> and thus, wouldn't lifting the rear of the hood
result in air going *into*
> the engine bay, down along the firewall, and
under the car? If so, wouldn't
> this add to underhood pressure and
decrease radiator flow?
>
> --Erik
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:23:58
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?
Matt,
I had heard that the big
downfall with using an Autometer EGT was that it
could only read up to 900C
(1650F) which was not enough to tell you when you
were getting close to the
danger zone. I remember seeing that the Greddy
EGT that goes to 1200C
which seems to be way more than what we need although
that is what all of
their EGT's are measured to.
Any chance I can fit the 60mm Greddy EGT in
my 52mm gauge pod?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:15 AM
To:
Black, Dave (ICT); Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak
hold?
> and would like the EGT gauge to:
>
> 1. have a
peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read up to 1200 C
Why
1200C? That's almost 2200 degrees F. K-type thermocouples are
best
used between 583C and 1093C (according to Exhaust Gas
Technologies). AFAIK,
the SPA Techniques gauge uses an amplifier that
converts 10mv to 1v, 50mv to
5v, etc. and the gauge ranges from 0v to 5v so
you could read up to your
1200C (50mv). If you are interested in this
gauge, check with the SPA
Techniques guys about what you want to do to make
sure it'll actually work,
or I can dig out my spec sheet (if I can find
it).
Hope that helps...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:24:04
-0400
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Team3S: PISTON RINGS NEEDED!!
I was wondering if anybody out there that
have had these motors apart and
have ordered parts for them might know where
I can get a set of piston
rings. I only need rings for ONE (1) piston. I bent
a rod on my 93 stealth
rt/tt and am replacing the rod and piston. It seems
that you can only buy
them in the whole set for the 6 but I only need rings
for one. If anybody
out there maybe knows a place where I can order them for
only the one piston
or might have some themselfs that they are willing to
part with please reply
to this message. I am willing to pay for the rings if
you have a set that
you personally have. I just don't see paying 200 dollars
for a set. Thanks..
Jerry 92 Stealth E/S 93 Stealth
RT/TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:33:41
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Synthetic oil?
Im going to do an oil change tomarrow, and decided to give
synthetic mobil
one oil a try, anyone use it before and like the way it
performs. Will it get
rid of lifter tick?
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:03:09
-0500
From: Shane Thoms <
turbos2go@thomsclan.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
While adding my BOV and K&N FIPK, I
took some time with the
Y-pipe. Overall I thought it was a very good
design with a few problems.
#1 The "Y" inlet on mine had one of the ends
'necked' down inside. A
little dremel work, and both inlets are of
equal/smooth diameter.
#2 The Outlet issue. After hearing so many
pop-off complaints, I examined
mine. Seal looked good, but where the
notches are cut back to allow the
hose clamp to work were too thin.
Some gaps were even completely closed
when I took the clamp off. I
widened them all ~%10 and reinstalled. Never
had a problem before, but
I hope to be at 1bar soon. :-)
Shane
>Blew the Y-pipe off
today, during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
>highway patrolman
stopped by to assist. He held the pipe on whilst I
>tightened the
clamp. (It's amazing how our cars fascinate cops. I got
>stopped by
a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see the car.
>But I
digress.)
>
>Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've
read various
>solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to
wedging a board
>twixt the pipe and the battery.
>
>What
works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex
>this
weekend.
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>DSBC set to 15 psi
max.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:04:54
-0500
From: Shane Thoms <
turbos2go@thomsclan.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)
I like the
TurboXS. Very clean aluminum/brass design and fits perfectly
where the
OEM one sits.
Tested mine to ~20psi and it held. Without shimming the
spring.
Shane
> > Technical content:
> > What BPV's
is used most often with a BPU set up ?
>
>At this point the most
bang for the buck seems to be the 1G DSM bypass valve
>with the adaptor
flange for the 2G DSM to use the 1G valve. Works fine, but
>on '94
and later 3/S cars might require some creative wire-tying to prevent
>it
from hitting the shifter linkages (or more precisely the huge-ass
weights
>that Getrag threw on there).
>
>Holds boost good,
vents back into the intake, relatively inexpensive, no
>fabrication
necessary.
>
>$129 from Extreme
Motorsports
>http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/icpipe.htm
>
>$140
from Buschur Racing
>http://www.buschurracing.com
>
>$125 from
Diamond Star Specialties (and you get a strip of Zots candy,
too!)
>http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/secgenprice.html
>
>I'm
sure there are others who supply them, those are just the guys who I
>like
to give my money to.
>
>
>On a side-note, Extreme Motorsports
now has a CNC machined aluminum true
>harmonic damper that also fits the
6G72. It is $349. Their
description
>reads:
>
>"Lightweight CNC Billet Racing
Damper... this harmonic damper also works as
>a underdrive pulley thats
helps increase usable horsepower while protecting
>your engine. They are
hard-anodized for durability and are a direct bolt-on.
>The 4G63 is an
inline four that is susceptible to harmonic resonation,
>especially at
high RPMs and in race applications."
>
>I don't have any firsthand
experience with the part, so please don't flame
>me. :-) I'd
assume this is similar in design to the one that Buschur
>Racing
offers.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:10:27
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)
The BOV only needs to hold
minimal pressure --- one side of the valve
has pressure direct from the
turbos and the other side has manifold
pressure, which will be the same as
the turbos are providing. At this point
both sides af the valve have the
same, or very near the same pressure.
The only time it sees pressure
differential is when the throttle closes and
the manifold pressure drops to
a vacuum --- at this point one side has
vacuum and the other has turbo
output and the valve opens to release
pressure.
I'm going to have to
dig out my old BOV --- as I recall it had a small hole
between the two sides
?!?!?!?!
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Yoss" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
> I've run
intake pressure tests to check for any leaks, and this valve easily
>
holds the pressure upto 20psi. Well, the only leak that was detected was
at
> the throttle body; hence the statement that the bpv wasn't
leaking. Since
> this unit is a bypass valve, if it would leak any
boost, it would leak it back
> into the intake. So, will a pressure
test detect it?
>
> -sankar
> '97 "LW-FLYN"
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:13:28
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Synthetic oil?
I use Mobil 1 and don't have lifter tick.
I
don't know if there is a direct correlation.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 4:34 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Synthetic oil?
Im going to do an oil change tomarrow, and decided
to give synthetic mobil
one oil a try, anyone use it before and like the way
it performs. Will it
get
rid of lifter tick?
- -mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:20:47
-0700
From: "Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mobil synthetic oil
Me too! 15-50 have had no tick!
Jeff
93 SOHC Stealth W/ 93,000 miles
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:04:11
+0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <
abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
engine repair shop in Seattle
Hello:
can anyone recommend a decent
shop in Seattle, WA that does engine repairs
on our cars (92 Stealth
r/t)?
Please reply privately.
Thank you.
Andrei
Kryjevski.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:20:12
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Front mount oil coolers
Few people report lifter tick being cured by
switching to Mobil 1.
There have been threads concerning various head
cleaning solvents
and auto trans fluid mixed with the tail of a newt and some
dried bat
wings. I find the bat wings overkill plus they're hard to
find.
I've cured my lifter tick by a weekend at on open track event --- I
assume the time spent at or near redline helps clear the lifter
oil
passages --- it seems to return after 6 months or
so.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Yoss" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
To: "Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, April
29, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
>
On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> > > weather-strip mod,
> [snip]
> >
> > Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood
hinge,
> > and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.
>
> So, now that we have created a pathway for air to leave from under the
hood,
> what are the other issues with revisiting the open-hood mod?
Just
> brain-storming and piquing the brains of the experts...
>
> -sankar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:22:23
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
Sankar and others,
Removing
the weather-stripping at the rear of the engine bay and not
performing any
other mods will make air ENTER at the rear of the hood
instead of EXIT.
Who needs for me to take a video of this?
Step 1:
-
Simple test. Take a 6", 10", and 16" piece of dental
floss and tie them to the plastic "grid" that
is at the
base of the windshield or tie them
on the arm of the
windshield wiper
(preferred).
- This puts the dental floss up in the airstream so
you
prove to yourself if the mod works or
does not work.
- Drive around and have a passenger watch the
dental floss.
Drive at 10 mph for a few
hundred feet. Then drive at 20
mph,
then 30 mph, then 40 mph, then 50 mph, then 60 mph.
You get the point. What should happen
is that the dental
floss will sit there at
the speeds up to a few mph and as
you get
faster the air will go over the hood and blow the
dental floss up along the
windshield.
Step 2:
- Remove the weather-stripping (the
weather-stripping has
an elliptical hole
where it mounts to the plastic "T" shaped
clips in the firewall so just stretch the weather-stripping
until you can remove it from the plastic
clips).
- Repeat the same steps above of having the passenger
watch
the dental floss as you drive at a few
speeds again.
Now everyone raise your hand who saw the dental floss get
sucked down
under the hood (I'm not sure what length does it but the 6" might
be too
short). Everyone see it? With all this air rushing in the
rear of the
hood and sucking in the dental floss do you think there is any
air
coming OUT of the rear of the hood at 60 mph to undo the air that
is
coming IN at 60 mph?
I'll look forward to anyone who can remove the
weather-stripping and
still allow air to exit the rear of the hood.
Note: you might need to
wipe the windshield wipers once you are at speed to
get them to behave.
Obviously, if you start and get up to speed too fast then
air will not
have a chance to act on the dental floss.
Still
skeptical? Wash some water on your rear window and keep the
automatic
sunroof closed. The water goes down the back window to
the
bumper. Now, open the sunroof and slide it all the way back.
What
happens to the water? Correct. It start to travel UP the
rear window
from the base to the top even while you are traveling at 60 mph
forward.
Amazed? No, simple wind dynamics and pressure differences,
etc.
Again - still interested to see who can make the water do
something
different than what was described above.
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:34:36
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?
I found a peak hold 52mm EGT on this
site:
http://www.pptracing.com/There are
also a few combo gauges with boost and even a EGT/AF/Turbo timer
combo.
I havn't bought one from them yet but I am planning on it. The
prices
seem to be very good at $180 for the triple combo. The 52mm
EGT/Boost
gauge is $330.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:17:47
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers
As an aerospace engineering
student having taken courses in aerodynamics, I
have to agree with Flash
here. We did a lab experiment for flow over an
aircraft wing much like what
Flash just described here with the dental
floss. It's true, the flow of air
should (will) actually follows a path back
into the engine bay.
-
-ROD
*** Info:
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#826
***************************************