Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Monday, April 29 2002    Volume 01 : Number 826




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 07:19:29 -0700
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress up

This must be a sweet topic still....I have made 10 new designs for
the plates....check them out at 3sxperformance.com

bobk.

- ---- Original Message ----
From: WDBO39@erols.com
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress up
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:03:33 -0400

>I know this came up a little over a week ago but since then I had to
>find
>another server for my web page, in case anyone is interested and
>might try
>to look for my old page, here is the link to my new web page address.
>
>http://www.omni-vr4.com/DBest/
>
>I also have six new spark plug plate designs that I hope to have
>pictures
>post, very soon, 3 are for the Spyder, one: VR4, 3000GT VR4 and a
>stealth
>plate.
>
>And thanks Rick for the good words, you can see a picture of Rick
>plenum on
>my web page, it did come out very nice.  I also polish fuel rails
>$25 for
>one $40 for two, or powder coat $20 for one $35 for two, hope to have
>pictures of them up on my site shortly.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave Best

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:50:22 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

Hi all,

I'm looking for a decent EGT.  I have the triple 52mm gauge pod for its home
and would like the EGT gauge to:

1. have a peak hold feature
2. preferably read up to 1200 C

I have seen the Greddy EGT 60mm but I have heard it won't fit in the 52mm
gauge pod.

Anyone have any suggestions?  TIA

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:56:35 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

Dave,

I've never seen a peak hold EGT gauge but the 3SXPerformance.com site
had some custom-made dual EGT gauges (and dual water/oil temp or dual
oil temp/oil pressure, etc.).  This is great as it measures two things
in the space of one and this is crucial for the center gauge pod when
you want to get the most out of the space and not do the install more
than once.

Good prices too as compared to Summit, Pegasus, CarParts.com, etc.

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 09:59:08 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

> I'm looking for a decent EGT.  I have the triple 52mm gauge pod for its
home
> and would like the EGT gauge to:
>
> 1. have a peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read up to 1200 C
>
> I have seen the Greddy EGT 60mm but I have heard it won't fit in the 52mm
> gauge pod.

If you don't mind the price, you can get dual EGT from SPA Technique in
their LCD electronic gauges.

$445 for dual EGT with probes (tap-in style, not clamp-on).  You should be
able to use any regular automotive probe (Westach sells the clamp-on if you
want to use that on the front manifold).

Now you can get amber illumination to match the stock 3/S lighting.
Adjustable brightness, peak hold, warning light, 52mm, etc.

http://www.spatechnique.com

I have the Boost/EGT version but it isn't installed yet (hopefully this
week).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:15:20 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

> and would like the EGT gauge to:
>
> 1. have a peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read up to 1200 C

Why 1200C?  That's almost 2200 degrees F.  K-type thermocouples are best
used between 583C and 1093C (according to Exhaust Gas Technologies).  AFAIK,
the SPA Techniques gauge uses an amplifier that converts 10mv to 1v, 50mv to
5v, etc. and the gauge ranges from 0v to 5v so you could read up to your
1200C (50mv).  If you are interested in this gauge, check with the SPA
Techniques guys about what you want to do to make sure it'll actually work,
or I can dig out my spec sheet (if I can find it).

Hope that helps...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:31:04 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress up

But I only charge $55 for polished and $60 for polished and powder coated
and I have 6 new designs and also offered custom plate designs.  Why pay
more?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To: <WDBO39@erols.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress up

> This must be a sweet topic still....I have made 10 new designs for
> the plates....check them out at 3sxperformance.com
>
> bobk.
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: WDBO39@erols.com
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress up
> Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:03:33 -0400
>
> >I know this came up a little over a week ago but since then I had to
> >find
> >another server for my web page, in case anyone is interested and
> >might try
> >to look for my old page, here is the link to my new web page address.
> >
> >http://www.omni-vr4.com/DBest/
> >
> >I also have six new spark plug plate designs that I hope to have
> >pictures
> >post, very soon, 3 are for the Spyder, one: VR4, 3000GT VR4 and a
> >stealth
> >plate.
> >
> >And thanks Rick for the good words, you can see a picture of Rick
> >plenum on
> >my web page, it did come out very nice.  I also polish fuel rails
> >$25 for
> >one $40 for two, or powder coat $20 for one $35 for two, hope to have
> >pictures of them up on my site shortly.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Dave Best

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:29:32 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Team3S: Warning about Dyna-Batt

I have heard several complaints now of people having problmes with their Dyna-
Batt batteries. For those that don't know, and the seller Performance
Distributors will not tell you, the Dyna-Batt is a Hawker Energy Genesis G16EP
sealed lead acid battery or a Odyssey PC680 also made by Hawker, with factory
labels removed and a Dyna-Batt label added - along with a 100% mark up.
Complete details on these batteries are on my web page below.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

Though I have not had problems with my Dyna-Batt, I recently purchased a PC925
as part of my project to move the battery to the rear compartment. The owner's
manual that came with the PC925 covers the PC680 (Dyna-Batt) and has the
following warning.

"Never attempt to remove the top decal cover of the Genesis or Odyssey battery
because this will cause the battery to fail." It also states "REMOVING THE
LABELED COVER" ... "WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY".

In consideration of this I peeled back a very small amount of the corner of
the Dyna-Batt decal to find that the Hawker Energy decal was removed. The
decal must be part of the vented and sealed design of the battery. Because
there is no way to replenish lost water in the battery, any venting of water
vapor, oxygen, or hydrogen, will reduce battery life. Maybe this is why some
people are having problems.

Performance Distributors also does not provide any information about charging
the Dyna-Batt other than saying "don't overcharge it". I suspect many owners
may be using standard automotive-type battery chargers that exceed 15 volts
(the two I have do) and therefore reducing battery life. With this battery,
charging voltage should not exceed 15 volts unless the battery internal
temperature is below 10ºC (50ºF). See the temperature-compensated charging
chart in my web page above.

If the exorbitant price tag is not enough to dissuade any of you from buying
the Dyna-Batt, the warranty violations and complete lack of instructions for
proper care should convince you not to purchase the Dyna-Batt from Performance
Distributors. Yes I know, I announced the Dyna-Batt to you all about a year
ago. So those that have bought one can cuss me out if you want. Hey I paid
$155 for one of these! Hopefully the information here and on my web page will
keep others from making the mistake I did. And if you have one already, the
information on my web page will help you make it last longer.

The PC680 is available for only $70 and is the exact same battery as the Dyna-
Batt. Other sealed lead acid batteries for our cars are also listed on my web
page.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:24:15 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warning about Dyna-Batt

thanks for the info Jeff

A main point you emphasized seems to be (not!) using a battery charger to
charge them up.  For those of us who drive our cars year round, this is not
an issue because of the alternator's characteristics, correct?

So if we buy the Odyssey PC680, then it will work fine?  Do these other
batteries' terminals fit with the stock clamps?  If not, does anyone know
where to buy adapters?


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 10:33:06 -0700
From: Jack <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

Well, since you bashed me publicly, i feel i must defend myself, otherwise
i wouldn't bother replying to these comments.

At 11:19 PM 4/28/02 -0500, Todd D.Shelton wrote:
>Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),

You never heard of anybody changing they're name before?

>And the fun time to install, I must say that this is ludicrous!

Fun time to install?? My kit comes with everything you need for a bolt on
installation. The only thing you have to remove is the front bumper and
crash bar. The only modification needed is drilling 4 small holes in the
crash bar for the cooler mounts. What is ludicrous about that?

>Doesn't even come with steel braided lines ....

No, but it does come with hose that is tested to 350 degrees, and 500psi.
They also have banjo hose ends crimped on. The crimps are rated at 1000psi.
The problem with pretty braided lines is that by the time you put the
adaptor fittings and 90 degree hose ends on, you don't have enough space
for the crossmember that is directly below the oil filter.

>For Example:  A Mocal 32 Row  (all alluminum - braised into
>a one piece unit with oilways containing turbulators, oilways
>are interspaced with corrugations proving airways between the
>plates and louvered.  Tested by immersion to 170 psi)
>
>Top Model: $260

Well, i'not familiar with all the fancy terms here, but the core I'm using
is also all aluminum, and is a dual pass design. It was designed for the
high demands of rotary engines, and is a factory Mazda part. A quote from a
company that has been racing RX-7's for many years states "all the
aftermarket coolers we have tried have not been able to cool as well as the
factory cooler. We recommend staying with the OEM unit". If you were to buy
this cooler direct from Mazda, you would pay more than i am selling the
whole kit for. As an added bonus, it fits perfectly in the bumper opening

>You gotta be kidding Wayne/Jack ....

No, I'm not

>Maybe I should go buy a few Motels and resale
>them for $700+?!

My profit is not that much, considering the time I've spent making this a
direct bolt-on kit, and also the time spent writing a comprehensive
installation guide.

>- tds
If you have any further comments, please send them to me directly............

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:44:35 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

Jack,

It is unfortunate that people who want to bring products to the 3/S
market are subjected to this bullshit.
Let me apologize to you from those of us that like to hear about
these types of opportunities.
Technical content:
If a by pass valve is whistling, is it set too loose ?

- -----Original Message---------------------------------
From: Jack [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:33 AM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

Well, since you bashed me publicly, i feel i must defend myself, otherwise
i wouldn't bother replying to these comments.

At 11:19 PM 4/28/02 -0500, Todd D.Shelton wrote:
>Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),

You never heard of anybody changing they're name before?

>And the fun time to install, I must say that this is ludicrous!

Fun time to install?? My kit comes with everything you need for a bolt on
installation. The only thing you have to remove is the front bumper and
crash bar. The only modification needed is drilling 4 small holes in the
crash bar for the cooler mounts. What is ludicrous about that?

>Doesn't even come with steel braided lines ....

No, but it does come with hose that is tested to 350 degrees, and 500psi.
They also have banjo hose ends crimped on. The crimps are rated at 1000psi.
The problem with pretty braided lines is that by the time you put the
adaptor fittings and 90 degree hose ends on, you don't have enough space
for the crossmember that is directly below the oil filter.

>For Example:  A Mocal 32 Row  (all alluminum - braised into
>a one piece unit with oilways containing turbulators, oilways
>are interspaced with corrugations proving airways between the
>plates and louvered.  Tested by immersion to 170 psi)
>
>Top Model: $260

Well, i'not familiar with all the fancy terms here, but the core I'm using
is also all aluminum, and is a dual pass design. It was designed for the
high demands of rotary engines, and is a factory Mazda part. A quote from a
company that has been racing RX-7's for many years states "all the
aftermarket coolers we have tried have not been able to cool as well as the
factory cooler. We recommend staying with the OEM unit". If you were to buy
this cooler direct from Mazda, you would pay more than i am selling the
whole kit for. As an added bonus, it fits perfectly in the bumper opening

>You gotta be kidding Wayne/Jack ....

No, I'm not

>Maybe I should go buy a few Motels and resale
>them for $700+?!

My profit is not that much, considering the time I've spent making this a
direct bolt-on kit, and also the time spent writing a comprehensive
installation guide.

>- tds
If you have any further comments, please send them to me
directly............

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:02:04 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

OH PLEASE, not another one of these threads if this turns into another penis
measuring contest and how we are getting screwed take this OFF THE LIST.

Now onto the tech content of my email, I was the one working on making the
ACCELL  Buick GN set up work standalone for our cars. I currently have the
GN Coil pack along with the MSD DIS wiring adapter (makes the coils plugs
right into the DIS-6)  I am now at the point of figuring out the wiring, I
have several connectors on order from MSD to fabricate a harness that will
plug into the MSD adapter and then plug into the factory wiring.  As soon as
these connectors arrive I will be attempting to create something the average
DYI'r can make.

I do apologize for taking so long but I really wasn't expecting to grenade
my motor at the beginning of this month  :/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 1:45 PM
> To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
>
> Jack,
>
> It is unfortunate that people who want to bring products to the 3/S
> market are subjected to this bullshit.
> Let me apologize to you from those of us that like to hear about
> these types of opportunities.
> Technical content:
> If a by pass valve is whistling, is it set too loose ?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:07:46 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

Russell,

So you are of the opinion that we do need to run MSD with the Accel
coils ?
What destroyed your engine ?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:19:25 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Not this again + Accell Buick GN coils

Undecided as yet,  Using the MSD DIS will take care of 1/2 of the wiring
issue then you just have to wire up the DIS to the cars stock transistors.
What I am trying to avoid is the cutting of the factory wiring if that goals
appears to be unattainable then I will go hary carey on the factory wires
;)

What destroyed my engine was the shot stock engine mounts the engine rocked
under acceleration and pulled the Solenoid feed hose of the Y pipe.  Next
light I stomped on it again and I felt a  hard buck + heard a loud pop.....
Got to where I needed to be popped the hood and saw the hose dangling.  Two
of three front bank pistons have broken rings/ring lands (only have the
front head off currently)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:49:56 US/Central
From: tds@brightok.net
Subject: Re:Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

> > -----Original Message---------------------------------
> > From: Jack [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
> > Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:33 AM
> > To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> >
> > Well, since you bashed me publicly, i feel i must defend myself, otherwise
> >
> > i wouldn't bother replying to these comments.
> >
> > At 11:19 PM 4/28/02 -0500, Todd D.Shelton wrote:
> > >Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),
> >
> > You never heard of anybody changing they're name before?
> >
> > >And the fun time to install, I must say that this is ludicrous!
> >
> > Fun time to install?? My kit comes with everything you need for a bolt on
> > installation. The only thing you have to remove is the front bumper and
> > crash bar. The only modification needed is drilling 4 small holes in the
> > crash bar for the cooler mounts. What is ludicrous about that?
> >
> > >Doesn't even come with steel braided lines ....
> >
> > No, but it does come with hose that is tested to 350 degrees, and 500psi.
> > They also have banjo hose ends crimped on. The crimps are rated at
> > 1000psi.
> > The problem with pretty braided lines is that by the time you put the
> > adaptor fittings and 90 degree hose ends on, you don't have enough space
> > for the crossmember that is directly below the oil filter.
> >
> > >For Example:  A Mocal 32 Row  (all alluminum - braised into
> > >a one piece unit with oilways containing turbulators, oilways
> > >are interspaced with corrugations proving airways between the
> > >plates and louvered.  Tested by immersion to 170 psi)
> > >
> > >Top Model: $260
> >
> > Well, i'not familiar with all the fancy terms here, but the core I'm using
> >
> > is also all aluminum, and is a dual pass design. It was designed for the
> > high demands of rotary engines, and is a factory Mazda part. A quote from
> > a
> > company that has been racing RX-7's for many years states "all the
> > aftermarket coolers we have tried have not been able to cool as well as
> > the
> > factory cooler. We recommend staying with the OEM unit". If you were to
> > buy
> > this cooler direct from Mazda, you would pay more than i am selling the
> > whole kit for. As an added bonus, it fits perfectly in the bumper opening
> >
> > >You gotta be kidding Wayne/Jack ....
> >
> > No, I'm not
> >
> > My profit is not that much, considering the time I've spent making this a
> > direct bolt-on kit, and also the time spent writing a comprehensive
> > installation guide.
> >
- --------------------------------------------------------------

It's no surprise that the only one apologizing and running
to your defense is the same person that constantly hawks $300 strut
bars that are worth about 1/2 that price and makes up derogatory and
false claims about the competition .....

This appears to be the same type of scam. 

Most of us have been modding the 3S (8.5 years for me)
way too long to buy into this bunk.

Your $750 oil cooler kit isn't ludicrous because the install
is difficult - it's because it costs about twice as much as
the biggest (much bigger), baddest oil coolers on the market designed,
built and manufactured by those that specialize only in oil coolers.

There isn't too much that isn't difficult to install on our cars
when it comes to mods - the fact that your cooler is a PIA to install
just adds insult to injury because of the price.

You haven't come close to answering the questions concerning
specs and I doubt very many of us are willing to believe that
the puny OEM Mazda oil cooler you are marketing for $700 is better
than the monster sized aftermarket coolers available from specialized
aftermarket companies just because you say so and want us to send you
money.

Any owners foolish enough to believe this "Mazda OEM cooler is the
best ever" nonsense, I urge you to price the top coolers on the market
before wasting $500+ dollars.

Take note of the size of the cooler that is recommended for various
HP levels.  Many companies specify certain models for certain
HP levels like 300hp, 450 HP, 600HP, 700HP etc

Summitt Racing, Jegs, Racer Parts Wholesale .....

Once you see what is available from the top oil cooler manufacturers
in the world, go take a look at the pics/limited information provided for
Wayne's/Jack's $700 puny oil cooler.

Then come back and tell me I'm wrong and why.
Provide some kind of tangable proof for a change.

- - tds  Founding Member of the Gouge Patrol
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:58:50 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

Todd,

No one ever said anything bad about anyone else's product except
you.
And I'm not defending his product, just his right to offer it for
sale with out some asshole starting in on him.
If the shoe fits, wear it  : )

Technical content:
The whistle in the by pass valve occurs during acceleration and
deceleration - around 3,500 to 4,500 RPM.
Any ideas on the cause ?  It is the TurboXS H-34 and has two washers
installed.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:13:21 -0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio   x35617d1" <x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject: Team3S: Borla or ATR?

Hello, the newbie here again. I've been trying to decide whether to get the
Borla or ATR cat-back for my '94 VR-4. I'm kinda confused on the tip size of
these 2 systems. Some vendors list the Borla as having 3" tips while others
list it as 4". Ditto for the ATR. I know there's plenty of you out there
with either one of these systems so what are the correct tip sizes and any
recommendations? Thanks.

- -ROD

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:19:31 US/Central
From: tds@brightok.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

> Todd,
>
> No one ever said anything bad about anyone else's product except
> you.
> And I'm not defending his product, just his right to offer it for
> sale with out some asshole starting in on him.
> If the shoe fits, wear it  : )

We both know I can pull up archives from the list and 3SI where
you proclaim the overpriced strut bar to outperform all others -
even though you have never tested or even used the others - much
less provided any data proving anything.

If someone offers a product and it is grossly overpriced without cause, reason
or explanation - then we have a right to ask why.

I defend the rights of the customer to ask why without some asshole trying to
shield/coverup possible/probable fraud and/or gouging and then continue to hawk
said product on the owner's list without question endlessly.  If the shoe fits,
wear it  : )

> Technical content:
> The whistle in the by pass valve occurs during acceleration and
> deceleration - around 3,500 to 4,500 RPM.
> Any ideas on the cause ?  It is the TurboXS H-34 and has two washers
> installed.

Maybe it's an inferior product.  The TurboXS only cost 1/2 as much as
the "good" brands.  It probably doesn't perform near as well as any of the
others but of course there's no test data to prove that which you don't require
anyway.  You get what you pay for ....

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:24:14 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on

Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He held the pipe on whilst I tightened the clamp.  (It's amazing how our cars fascinate cops. I got stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see the car. But I digress.)

Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to wedging a board twixt the pipe and the battery.

What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex this weekend.

Rich/slow old poop
DSBC set to 15 psi max.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:40:48 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

So you get what you pay for applies to BPV's but not strut tower
bars ?
Please do pull up any negative thing said about anyone else's
product by anyone except you.
Be careful that shoe doesn't fit up your ass : )

Technical content:
What BPV is suggested other than the TurboXS brand ?
And for what reason.

- -----Original Message-----
From: tds@brightok.net [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 8:20 AM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

> Todd,
>
> No one ever said anything bad about anyone else's product except
> you.
> And I'm not defending his product, just his right to offer it for
> sale with out some asshole starting in on him.
> If the shoe fits, wear it  : )

We both know I can pull up archives from the list and 3SI where
you proclaim the overpriced strut bar to outperform all others -
even though you have never tested or even used the others - much
less provided any data proving anything.

If someone offers a product and it is grossly overpriced without cause,
reason
or explanation - then we have a right to ask why.

I defend the rights of the customer to ask why without some asshole trying
to
shield/coverup possible/probable fraud and/or gouging and then continue to
hawk
said product on the owner's list without question endlessly.  If the shoe
fits,
wear it  : )

> Technical content:
> The whistle in the by pass valve occurs during acceleration and
> deceleration - around 3,500 to 4,500 RPM.
> Any ideas on the cause ?  It is the TurboXS H-34 and has two washers
> installed.

Maybe it's an inferior product.  The TurboXS only cost 1/2 as much as
the "good" brands.  It probably doesn't perform near as well as any of the
others but of course there's no test data to prove that which you don't
require
anyway.  You get what you pay for ....

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 13:43:23 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Keeping the Y-Pipe on

Rich,

I've also heard of a tennis ball fix.
The ball is inserted between the Y-pipe and battery.
You may want to spring for an after market y-pipe or at least
T-clamps.

- -----Original Message--------------------------------------------------
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 1:24 PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He held the pipe on whilst I
tightened the clamp.  (It's amazing how our cars fascinate cops. I got
stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see the car.
But I digress.)

Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various
solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to wedging a board twixt
the pipe and the battery.

What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex this
weekend.

Rich/slow old poop
DSBC set to 15 psi max.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:49:30 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on

Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry, then tighten the clamp with
a socket and rachet, ¼"  drive will do.

Or --- use the tennis ball mod --- jam a tennis ball between the battery
and pipe.

        Jim Berry

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:03:43 US/Central
From: tds@brightok.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

> So you get what you pay for applies to BPV's but not strut tower
> bars ?
> Please do pull up any negative thing said about anyone else's
> product by anyone except you.
> Be careful that shoe doesn't fit up your ass : )
>
> Technical content:
> What BPV is suggested other than the TurboXS brand ?
> And for what reason.
- -------------------------------------------------------------
LOL!  I think I've made my point!  And now we all know
where the shoe is.


While you were trying to "decypher" my post and
conceive new (but unoriginal) insults, I have
been making phone calls and gathering parts.

I will be installing a new *SETRAB* oil cooler on
my StealthTT.  It will be bigger, better and *much*
less expensive than the puny $700 Mazda OEM cooler.

It should take a couple of weeks to gather parts,
install etc.  I will NOT be removing the front
end to install either.

Expect an update with links to my digital pics.

Good luck with your shoe and BPV .....

Maybe you could buy the $700 stock Mazda oil cooler and
install while you're under the hood?!

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:15:43 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2

Todd,

You must be a very unhappy person to have to try to bring others
down to your level all the time.

Technical content:
What BPV's is used most often with a BPU set up ?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:21:39 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Could we get some technical content into this rhubarb?
For example, have any of you oil cooler builders, buyers, or researchers come across data or information on these topics:

1. The oil pressure needs of our engines, and how this might be affected by adding a larger cooler. Can the oil pump handle an extra quart or two of oil circulating around far, far away?

2. The effect on blocking the radiator with a big fat oil cooler. Will water temps go up as oil temps go down?

3. Or vice versa. What is the potential cooling effect on 2nd gen engines, which tend to run hotter at road courses; e.g., will a big oil cooler also keep water temps down?

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:39:41 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:  Keeping the Y-Pipe on

Rich:
T-Bolt clamp is nice idea, though I never got one myself.  Otherwise,
MacGyver can do it this way:
You can encircle the end of the Y-pipe by the throttlebody with 1 or 2
Zip-ties; then through those, at right angles going out toward the
driverside take 2-4 more Zip ties and have each zipped around a hose,
bracket etc and tighten them so they "preload" the Y-pipe--they PULL it
toward the throttlebody.  It doesn't have to be perfectly symmetrical in
pull around the circumference of the Y-pipe; the idea is to get some
preload, to an amount that (along with the clamping power of the stock
setup) boost can't develop enough force to overcome both.
When you need to take Y-pipe off, just snip the 2-3 connector ties...they
are cheap.

Works as well as my old Bungee Cord Preload setup (patent pending) but looks
a bit nicer especially with "stealth" black zip-ties ;)
Jack T.

From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: 3S-Racers: Keeping the Y-Pipe on
> Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He held the pipe on whilst I
tightened the clamp.  (It's amazing how our cars fascinate cops. I got
stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see the car.
But I digress.)
> Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various
solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to wedging a board twixt
the pipe and the battery.
> What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex
this weekend.
> Rich/slow old poop
> DSBC set to 15 psi max.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:38:25 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

I will take a crack at these questions rich

1)  If done correctly an upgraded cooler should not affect oil pump life,
i.e. remove those GODDAM banjo bolts that was mitsu's answer to true
connector fittings.  I hate banjo fittings thus far I have found two on the
fuel system, two on the oil cooler (haven't gotten around to the oil filter
side of things YET)

2) I believe it should help more than it hurts due to the fact oil doesn't
as readily shed its heat (not sure of the term for this) So more surface
area to cool will increase heat transfer.

3) I want to say yes it will help water temps slightly but in all honesty
you are better off improving the cooling system first in this order

a) run a 60% water to 40% coolant mix with one bottle of water
wetter thrown in.
b) improve airflow across the radiator and decrease under hood temps
(hood venting of some sort)
c) figure out how to make the factory fans stay on all the time on
the track (maybe a piggy back switch or unplug something that will
cause the fan to stay running?)
d) A improved radiator like the PPE unit or have something custom
fabbed
e) Larger oil cooler

Again all of this is in IMHO and most of these ideas came from the MKIV road
racers I spoke with and who were kind enough to take detailed pics.  A good
link to allot of my suggestions can be found at boostaholic.com, site
belongs to Andi Baritchi (one of the TX MKIV guys and an avid road racer)
give those a whirl and report back.

Oh Yeah Jack T have you gone to a course since making the changes we were
discussing?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:47:00 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

> Technical content:
> What BPV's is used most often with a BPU set up ?

At this point the most bang for the buck seems to be the 1G DSM bypass valve
with the adaptor flange for the 2G DSM to use the 1G valve.  Works fine, but
on '94 and later 3/S cars might require some creative wire-tying to prevent
it from hitting the shifter linkages (or more precisely the huge-ass weights
that Getrag threw on there).

Holds boost good, vents back into the intake, relatively inexpensive, no
fabrication necessary.

$129 from Extreme Motorsports
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/icpipe.htm

$140 from Buschur Racing
http://www.buschurracing.com

$125 from Diamond Star Specialties (and you get a strip of Zots candy, too!)
http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/secgenprice.html

I'm sure there are others who supply them, those are just the guys who I
like to give my money to.

On a side-note, Extreme Motorsports now has a CNC machined aluminum true
harmonic damper that also fits the 6G72.  It is $349.  Their description
reads:

"Lightweight CNC Billet Racing Damper... this harmonic damper also works as
a underdrive pulley thats helps increase usable horsepower while protecting
your engine. They are hard-anodized for durability and are a direct bolt-on.
The 4G63 is an inline four that is susceptible to harmonic resonation,
especially at high RPMs and in race applications."

I don't have any firsthand experience with the part, so please don't flame
me.  :-)  I'd assume this is similar in design to the one that Buschur
Racing offers.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:57:38 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon

I think a bigger oil cooler is a great idea.  My 94 with FMIC was in the red
zone roadracing in a 38 degree day, and still uses the stock oil cooler.
Anything that gets heat out of the engine is a help, and if it uses the side
air intakes (not the front, where the AC condenser, radiator, and for some
the FMIC is ALREADY), that is best.
Maybe one could find the biggest excellent quality lower cost aftermarket
oil cooler that will fit in the driverside area where the stock oil cooler
is, and figure out the install etc. and if somebody makes a kit with
fittings, instructions etc, more power to them.
I had to weld AN fittings onto my stock 93 cooler because winter salt/rust
ate through the stockpipes near the oil cooler and it developed a leak.
This is a worthy idea, and if we find a "cheaper but best" way that would be
great.  I tend to doubt Mazda has a "lock" on oil cooler technology.   IMO
the more frontal area the better (as long as the internal design uses an
efficient method of heat exchange).
Jack T.

From:  Jack aka Wayne [snips]
> Next week i'm moving back to Minnesota; will be
> operating Shop (Mitsubishi Specialties). One of first things
> is front mount oil cooler kit for both Turbo, N/A 3000GT/Stealths.
> The prototype is working on my car; i need to finish installation manual.
> The kit is pricey, most of cost is cooler @ $465.
> I have not measured oil temp.  As time permits, i will install oil temp
guage, post results.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:01:13 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, merritt@cedar-rapids.net <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> 3. What is the potential cooling effect on 2nd gen engines, which tend to
> run hotter at road courses; e.g., will a big oil cooler also keep water
> temps down?

Once upon a time, some adventurous ppl were considering a hood mod.  This
requires the hood lock to disengaged but the hook to be in place, which leads
to a small opening to let air into the hood.  The hood is fastened with two
additional hooks (the mod part of this mod) to supplement the center hook.
This would prevent the hood from getting airborne...

*******************************************************************************
It's hard to believe that something which is neither seen nor
  felt can do so much harm.
That's true.  But an idea can't be seen or felt.  And that's
  what kept the Troglytes in the mines all these centuries.  A
  mistaken idea.
    -- Vanna and Kirk, "The Cloud Minders," stardate 5819.0
*******************************************************************************

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:08:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Air under the front of the hood..is a very bad thing.

It reduces radiator flow.

A larger gap at the rear of the hood..would be a good thing...or anything
else that pulls air out from under the hood/behind the radiator.

Cool air under the hood WILL help intake temps, but theres easier ways to
solve that.  Cool air under the hood will NOT cool the motor more...the
motor will only be as cool as the oil and water in it..both of which are
unaffected (if not harmed) by adding air behind the radiator.
- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:07:56 -0500
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:  Front mount oil coolers

1) Oil pressure would not be significantly affected, and if it was it might
be a touch higher, as larger oil cooler area should have less "backpressure"
resisting flow.
I seem to recall the stock TURBO cars have a bypassing oil cooler system, it
doesn't send full flow through the cooler but only part of it.  If it were
full flow, then AGAIN the larger the cooler, the MORE flow would be.
2)  If this goes in front of the radiator, I won't get one.  That area is
already overtaxed with the AC condenser (blocks airflow volume even if AC no
on), the radiator, and FMIC for some people.
3)  I am not convinced 2G really run hotter.  The mechanicals are the same.
The thermostat would be WIDE open at high temps so cooler thermostat would
do nothing, unless the annulus was bigger on earlier cars allowing more flow
through the thermostat.  I doubt they have different sized thermostat
"holes".  The frontal area of the radiator air inlet is very similar.
Radiator is same, AC condenser...don't know if switch to R134 led to a more
restrictive/bigger condenser, but could be factor if so.  Still, we're
marginal on cooling at higher hp levels, so largest oil cooler practically
possible can only help overheat probs.

Russell:  No, that event was April 20-21 and did not go to another event
this last weekend :(
JT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:29:34 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> wrote:
> A larger gap at the rear of the hood..would be a good thing...or anything
> else that pulls air out from under the hood/behind the radiator.

There were yet another set of adventurous folks who came up with the creative
weather-strip mod, which involves ripping out the rubber strip at the rear
underside of the hood.  I'm not sure what the quantitative gains are, but
since this was a simple mod, I've already done this in my car.

> Cool air under the hood WILL help intake temps, but theres easier ways to
> solve that.  Cool air under the hood will NOT cool the motor more...the
> motor will only be as cool as the oil and water in it..both of which are
> unaffected (if not harmed) by adding air behind the radiator.

This makes sense.

- -sankar
*******************************************************************************
It's hard to believe that something which is neither seen nor
  felt can do so much harm.
That's true.  But an idea can't be seen or felt.  And that's
  what kept the Troglytes in the mines all these centuries.  A
  mistaken idea.
    -- Vanna and Kirk, "The Cloud Minders," stardate 5819.0
*******************************************************************************

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:39:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

> weather-strip mod, which involves ripping out the rubber strip at the rear
> underside of the hood.  I'm not sure what the quantitative gains are, but
> since this was a simple mod, I've already done this in my car.
- ---

Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:36:06 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

I was actually thinking about something like this also (since the hood is
sitting on top of a towel on the roof of my car) My thinking was more along
the lines of what the TRD hood for MKIV is, this would improve under hood
temps and hopefully create a slight vacuum effect helping to pull more air
through the radiator. Another Option is to do a hood scoop like found
standard on the Euro MKIV's and more and more modded US cars are putting
this on also.  A link to a bunch of pics of this is below

http://www.boostaholic.com/supra/pics.html

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:43:38 -0700
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

I've done this mod, and it definitely helped my water temps.  I
overheated and blew a water pump last summer at Willow Springs (105
degrees during the day!!!) and even after 35 minutes running through the
canyon roads at full throttle, temps are even less than what they
normally were before I removed the stripping.

Plus, as a little safe guard against rain water, i ran a small bead of
silicone along the upper surface of the deck under the hood by the
windshield, to help divert any water that might flow down from the
windshield.  It helps protect the elctronics, solenoids, etc, on the
firewall.

Damon

Geoff Mohler wrote:

>>weather-strip mod, which involves ripping out the rubber strip at the rear
>>underside of the hood.  I'm not sure what the quantitative gains are, but
>>since this was a simple mod, I've already done this in my car.
>>
>
> Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
> and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:45:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Looks good dont it.

Unfortunately little of what TRD does or sells, increases performanec in
any way at all.

TRD brake pads:  OTShelf Performance Friction street pads
TRD boost guage: POS Autometer 'ring' lit guage
..the list goes on.

It does add air, to what useful purpose..dunno.  Doubt it.

On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:

> I was actually thinking about something like this also (since the hood is
> sitting on top of a towel on the roof of my car) My thinking was more along
> the lines of what the TRD hood for MKIV is, this would improve under hood
> temps and hopefully create a slight vacuum effect helping to pull more air
> through the radiator. Another Option is to do a hood scoop like found
> standard on the Euro MKIV's and more and more modded US cars are putting
> this on also.  A link to a bunch of pics of this is below
>
> http://www.boostaholic.com/supra/pics.html
- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:51:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Damon's hood mod.

Damon:  A road track is nothing like canyon runs.

Youre not high-load/low speed a LOT out there, like you are on a track.

Example: The celica never overheats on the road, it WILL overheat in about
3 laps on a road track tho.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 14:58:34 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> wrote:
> > weather-strip mod,
[snip]
>
> Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
> and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.

So, now that we have created a pathway for air to leave from under the hood,
what are the other issues with revisiting the open-hood mod?  Just
brain-storming and piquing the brains of the experts...

- -sankar

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:08:26 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Raising the Rear of the Hood  WAS: Front mount oil coolers

> > Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to
> the hood hinge, and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.
>
> So, now that we have created a pathway for air to leave from
> under the hood,
> what are the other issues with revisiting the open-hood mod?  Just
> brain-storming and piquing the brains of the experts...

Another thought... isn't the base of the windshield a *high* pressure area
and thus, wouldn't lifting the rear of the hood result in air going *into*
the engine bay, down along the firewall, and under the car?  If so, wouldn't
this add to underhood pressure and decrease radiator flow?

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:09:35 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Matt Jannusch <mjannusch@attbi.com> wrote:
> > Technical content:
> > What BPV's is used most often with a BPU set up ?
>
> At this point the most bang for the buck seems to be the 1G DSM bypass valve
> with the adaptor flange for the 2G DSM to use the 1G valve.  Works fine, but
> on '94 and later 3/S cars might require some creative wire-tying to prevent
> it from hitting the shifter linkages (or more precisely the huge-ass weights
> that Getrag threw on there).

I have the 1G bpv installed in my 2nd gen car, and there are no interference
issues with the shifter linkage.

> Holds boost good, vents back into the intake, relatively inexpensive, no
> fabrication necessary.

I've run intake pressure tests to check for any leaks, and this valve easily
holds the pressure upto 20psi.  Well, the only leak that was detected was at
the throttle body; hence the statement that the bpv wasn't leaking.  Since
this unit is a bypass valve, if it would leak any boost, it would leak it back
into the intake.  So, will a pressure test detect it?

- -sankar
'97 "LW-FLYN" VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 15:20:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Raising the Rear of the Hood  WAS: Front mount oil coolers

The hood itself is..but not the cowl area.

On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:

> > > Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to
> > the hood hinge, and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.
> >
> > So, now that we have created a pathway for air to leave from
> > under the hood,
> > what are the other issues with revisiting the open-hood mod?  Just
> > brain-storming and piquing the brains of the experts...
>
> Another thought... isn't the base of the windshield a *high* pressure area
> and thus, wouldn't lifting the rear of the hood result in air going *into*
> the engine bay, down along the firewall, and under the car?  If so, wouldn't
> this add to underhood pressure and decrease radiator flow?
>
> --Erik

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:23:58 -0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

Matt,

I had heard that the big downfall with using an Autometer EGT was that it
could only read up to 900C (1650F) which was not enough to tell you when you
were getting close to the danger zone.  I remember seeing that the Greddy
EGT that goes to 1200C which seems to be way more than what we need although
that is what all of their EGT's are measured to.

Any chance I can fit the 60mm Greddy EGT in my 52mm gauge pod?

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 10:15 AM
To: Black, Dave (ICT); Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

> and would like the EGT gauge to:
>
> 1. have a peak hold feature
> 2. preferably read up to 1200 C

Why 1200C?  That's almost 2200 degrees F.  K-type thermocouples are best
used between 583C and 1093C (according to Exhaust Gas Technologies).  AFAIK,
the SPA Techniques gauge uses an amplifier that converts 10mv to 1v, 50mv to
5v, etc. and the gauge ranges from 0v to 5v so you could read up to your
1200C (50mv).  If you are interested in this gauge, check with the SPA
Techniques guys about what you want to do to make sure it'll actually work,
or I can dig out my spec sheet (if I can find it).

Hope that helps...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:24:04 -0400
From: "Jerry B." <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Team3S: PISTON RINGS NEEDED!!

I was wondering if anybody out there that have had these motors apart and
have ordered parts for them might know where I can get a set of piston
rings. I only need rings for ONE (1) piston. I bent a rod on my 93 stealth
rt/tt and am replacing the rod and piston. It seems that you can only buy
them in the whole set for the 6 but I only need rings for one. If anybody
out there maybe knows a place where I can order them for only the one piston
or might have some themselfs that they are willing to part with please reply
to this message. I am willing to pay for the rings if you have a set that
you personally have. I just don't see paying 200 dollars for a set. Thanks..

Jerry 92 Stealth E/S  93 Stealth RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:33:41 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Synthetic oil?

Im going to do an oil change tomarrow, and decided to give synthetic mobil
one oil a try, anyone use it before and like the way it performs. Will it get
rid of lifter tick?

- -mike
97 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:03:09 -0500
From: Shane Thoms <turbos2go@thomsclan.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Keeping the Y-Pipe on

While adding my BOV and K&N FIPK, I took some time with the
Y-pipe.  Overall I thought it was a very good design with a few problems.

#1 The "Y" inlet on mine had one of the ends 'necked' down inside.  A
little dremel work, and both inlets are of equal/smooth diameter.

#2 The Outlet issue.  After hearing so many pop-off complaints, I examined
mine.  Seal looked good, but where the notches are cut back to allow the
hose clamp to work were too thin.  Some gaps were even completely closed
when I took the clamp off.  I widened them all ~%10 and reinstalled.  Never
had a problem before, but I hope to be at 1bar soon.  :-)

Shane

>Blew the Y-pipe off today, during my daily dash to 100 mph. A nice Iowa
>highway patrolman stopped by to assist. He held the pipe on whilst I
>tightened the clamp.  (It's amazing how our cars fascinate cops. I got
>stopped by a Cedar Rapids cop once, because he just wanted to see the car.
>But I digress.)
>
>Anybody got a good cure for keeping the Y-pipe on? I've read various
>solutions in the archives, ranging from using glue to wedging a board
>twixt the pipe and the battery.
>
>What works? Gotta fix it quick, cuz I'm running at MidAmerica Motorplex
>this weekend.
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>DSBC set to 15 psi max.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 18:04:54 -0500
From: Shane Thoms <turbos2go@thomsclan.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

I like the TurboXS.  Very clean aluminum/brass design and fits perfectly
where the OEM one sits.
Tested mine to ~20psi and it held.  Without shimming the spring.

Shane

> > Technical content:
> > What BPV's is used most often with a BPU set up ?
>
>At this point the most bang for the buck seems to be the 1G DSM bypass valve
>with the adaptor flange for the 2G DSM to use the 1G valve.  Works fine, but
>on '94 and later 3/S cars might require some creative wire-tying to prevent
>it from hitting the shifter linkages (or more precisely the huge-ass weights
>that Getrag threw on there).
>
>Holds boost good, vents back into the intake, relatively inexpensive, no
>fabrication necessary.
>
>$129 from Extreme Motorsports
>http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/icpipe.htm
>
>$140 from Buschur Racing
>http://www.buschurracing.com
>
>$125 from Diamond Star Specialties (and you get a strip of Zots candy, too!)
>http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/secgenprice.html
>
>I'm sure there are others who supply them, those are just the guys who I
>like to give my money to.
>
>
>On a side-note, Extreme Motorsports now has a CNC machined aluminum true
>harmonic damper that also fits the 6G72.  It is $349.  Their description
>reads:
>
>"Lightweight CNC Billet Racing Damper... this harmonic damper also works as
>a underdrive pulley thats helps increase usable horsepower while protecting
>your engine. They are hard-anodized for durability and are a direct bolt-on.
>The 4G63 is an inline four that is susceptible to harmonic resonation,
>especially at high RPMs and in race applications."
>
>I don't have any firsthand experience with the part, so please don't flame
>me.  :-)  I'd assume this is similar in design to the one that Buschur
>Racing offers.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:10:27 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bypass Valves (was: oil cooler flame war)

The BOV only needs to hold minimal pressure --- one side of the valve
has pressure direct from the turbos and the other side has manifold
pressure, which will be the same as the turbos are providing. At this point
both sides af the valve have the same, or very near the same pressure.
The only time it sees pressure differential is when the throttle closes and
the manifold pressure drops to a vacuum --- at this point one side has
vacuum and the other has turbo output and the valve opens to release
pressure.

I'm going to have to dig out my old BOV --- as I recall it had a small hole
between the two sides ?!?!?!?!

        Jim Berry
================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Yoss" <yoss@aracnet.com>

> I've run intake pressure tests to check for any leaks, and this valve easily
> holds the pressure upto 20psi.  Well, the only leak that was detected was at
> the throttle body; hence the statement that the bpv wasn't leaking.  Since
> this unit is a bypass valve, if it would leak any boost, it would leak it back
> into the intake.  So, will a pressure test detect it?
>
> -sankar
> '97 "LW-FLYN" VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:13:28 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Synthetic oil?

I use Mobil 1 and don't have lifter tick.
I don't know if there is a direct correlation.

- -----Original Message-----
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com [mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 4:34 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Synthetic oil?

Im going to do an oil change tomarrow, and decided to give synthetic mobil
one oil a try, anyone use it before and like the way it performs. Will it
get
rid of lifter tick?

- -mike
97 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:20:47 -0700
From: "Jeff & Debby Kelley" <spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject: Team3S: Mobil synthetic oil

Me too! 15-50  have had no tick!
Jeff
93 SOHC Stealth W/ 93,000 miles

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 22:04:11 +0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: engine repair shop in Seattle

Hello:

can anyone recommend a decent shop in Seattle, WA that does engine repairs
on our cars (92 Stealth r/t)?

Please reply privately.

Thank you.

Andrei Kryjevski.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:20:12 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Few people report lifter tick being cured by switching to Mobil 1.

There have been threads concerning various head cleaning solvents
and auto trans fluid mixed with the tail of a newt and some dried bat
wings. I find the bat wings overkill plus they're hard to find.

I've cured my lifter tick by a weekend at on open track event --- I
assume the time spent at or near redline helps clear the lifter
oil passages --- it seems to return after 6 months or so.

        Jim Berry
============================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Yoss" <yoss@aracnet.com>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

> On Mon, Apr 29, 2002, Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> wrote:
> > > weather-strip mod,
> [snip]
> >
> > Its not a new idea, to go farther, you can add washers to the hood hinge,
> > and raise the hood another 1-1/5" in back as well.
>
> So, now that we have created a pathway for air to leave from under the hood,
> what are the other issues with revisiting the open-hood mod?  Just
> brain-storming and piquing the brains of the experts...
>
> -sankar

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 20:22:23 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

Sankar and others,

Removing the weather-stripping at the rear of the engine bay and not
performing any other mods will make air ENTER at the rear of the hood
instead of EXIT.  Who needs for me to take a video of this?

Step 1:
   - Simple test.  Take a 6", 10", and 16" piece of dental
      floss and tie them to the plastic "grid" that is at the
      base of the windshield or tie them on the arm of the
      windshield wiper (preferred).
   - This puts the dental floss up in the airstream so you
      prove to yourself if the mod works or does not work.
   - Drive around and have a passenger watch the dental floss. 
      Drive at 10 mph for a few hundred feet.  Then drive at 20
      mph, then 30 mph, then 40 mph, then 50 mph, then 60 mph. 
      You get the point.  What should happen is that the dental
      floss will sit there at the speeds up to a few mph and as
      you get faster the air will go over the hood and blow the
      dental floss up along the windshield.

Step 2:
   - Remove the weather-stripping (the weather-stripping has
      an elliptical hole where it mounts to the plastic "T" shaped
      clips in the firewall so just stretch the weather-stripping
      until you can remove it from the plastic clips).
   - Repeat the same steps above of having the passenger watch
      the dental floss as you drive at a few speeds again.

Now everyone raise your hand who saw the dental floss get sucked down
under the hood (I'm not sure what length does it but the 6" might be too
short).  Everyone see it?  With all this air rushing in the rear of the
hood and sucking in the dental floss do you think there is any air
coming OUT of the rear of the hood at 60 mph to undo the air that is
coming IN at 60 mph?

I'll look forward to anyone who can remove the weather-stripping and
still allow air to exit the rear of the hood.  Note: you might need to
wipe the windshield wipers once you are at speed to get them to behave.
Obviously, if you start and get up to speed too fast then air will not
have a chance to act on the dental floss.

Still skeptical?  Wash some water on your rear window and keep the
automatic sunroof closed.  The water goes down the back window to the
bumper.  Now, open the sunroof and slide it all the way back.  What
happens to the water?  Correct.  It start to travel UP the rear window
from the base to the top even while you are traveling at 60 mph forward.
Amazed?  No, simple wind dynamics and pressure differences, etc.

Again - still interested to see who can make the water do something
different than what was described above.

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 17:34:36 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 52mm EGT with peak hold?

I found a peak hold 52mm EGT on this site:  http://www.pptracing.com/

There are also a few combo gauges with boost and even a EGT/AF/Turbo timer
combo.  I havn't bought one from them yet but I am planning on it.  The
prices seem to be very good at $180 for the triple combo.  The 52mm
EGT/Boost gauge is $330.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 21:17:47 -0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio   x35617d1" <x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Front mount oil coolers

As an aerospace engineering student having taken courses in aerodynamics, I
have to agree with Flash here. We did a lab experiment for flow over an
aircraft wing much like what Flash just described here with the dental
floss. It's true, the flow of air should (will) actually follows a path back
into the engine bay.

- -ROD

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #826
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