Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 29
2002 Volume 01 : Number
825
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Apr 2002 09:06:25 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cannot remove brake rotors
The easiest way by far - spray some
WD40 in those holes, around the
center hub ring, let it sit for 15 minutes,
then beat the crap out of it
with a rubber mallet... should take about 4 good
hard hits (rotate the
rotor after each hit).
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Sunday, April 28, 2002 2:19 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.com;
mi3si@yahoogroups.com;
stealth@stls.verio.net;
a23Si@yahoogroups.comSubject:
Team3S: Cannot remove brake rotors
I started the brake job that I had to
do after my first open tracking
trip.
I made a little web page
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/.
I
was trying to pull the rotors by screwing bolts into them and hoping
that
they would pop. But the thread in the rotors is strange. I do not
think
it
is standard. But even if it is metric, then it is not the
standard
metric
thread but a little finer. Does anyone know what thread
that is and
where I
could get bolts that would fit that thread?
I
might have to heat the rotors with a torch. But I still have to be
able
to pull them somehow after they heat up. Those bolts would be a
big
help.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 09:57:13
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cannot remove brake rotors
Phillip - the bolts that go in the
rotors are 10mm fine thread. I got mine
at NAPA, but others on the list have
used the bolts that secure the
radiator. The take them out - use them on the
rotors - then put them back
where they came from.
Rest assured you are
not the first to encounter this problem. Whoever
designed the rotors had
their head up their ???.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 12:07:18
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Cannot remove brake rotors
I used the bolt-in-hole technique to loosen my
93 rotors way back. The
metal of the rotor cracked, started coming away
around the bolthole; rotor
stayed put. Took it to dealer before it was
undriveable and let them deal
with the filthy MF. Money well spent at
that point.
I put the next ones on with a bit of nickel antiseize coating
mating
surface; no probs since.
JT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 12:40:02
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cannot remove brake rotors
Hey Philip, this trick works
better than the teeny holes in the rotors
that strip...
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.htmlVinny
Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ -
Service Manuals on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 14:17:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Hi Russ,
I don't think you'll
need 20gallon cell for the track.
I usually average 7mpm so 10gallons
would last 70
miles or 20 or 35 laps depending upon the track.
A 50
minute session on the track is a LOOOOONG time.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
wrote:
> Ok where would I find a 20 gallon fuel cell that
> will fit
in the stock
> location on my car? Since I am in the middle
of
> basically disassembling the
> entire car I may as well take car
of this problem
> also.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 14:29:49
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Yeah but it's an either/or choice and I'd
hate to be stopping every
200 miles when not racing --- I get pissed when I
have to stop
at 400 miles.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 16:31:08
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: HELP: 1994 3000gt SL wants to die at low rpm when hot
Well guys,
finally dug out the manual this weekend and it says I need a
special tool
MD998709 to connect to the high pressure end of the fuel
rail to check the
fuel pressure, then connect my fuel pressure guage to
the other end.
Wonder what this costs if I can even find it, plus I
have to get an
o-ring. I have 2 fuel pressure guages with hoses long
enough to tape to
the windshield but none with this "special tool"
adapter. Does
anyone know where I can get one of these? Or is it
just time to
bite it and head to the dealer? Thanks
guys.
Bob
********************************************************************************
Actually,
I didn't know where to begin so I'll start with the fuel
pressure check
(I
haven't checked the pump yet, I will start with the pump) and clean
the idle
air
thingy, I just replaced the plugs but heaven knows it could be a
head
gasket
although I would think it would run rough with that, maybe it
is the
mass air
sensor. Thanks for all of the pointers, i'll
keep you all posted. I
really
appreciate the help as I didn't
want/have the way to/bucks to take it to
the
dealer.
Bob
Yoss
wrote:
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2002, RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> I only got one response on this, I guess it could be anything fuel
>
> related? Can anyone offer me any suggestions?
>
>
Did you get a chance to run a fuel pressure
check?
>
*******************************************
RJM
wrote:
> Well, I finally got the fuel filter replaced but it didn't
cure the
> symptoms: today the car drove beautifully the 32 miles to work
with the
> ac on the last 1/3, approximately 72deg.F. outside (a coolfront
here in
> Houston). But, on the way home the outside temp was
over 90deg.F and I
> was cruising on the highway about 25mi around 75-90
as traffic
> permitted. I was exiting and as I got to the
light it stopped right
> after putting it in neutral before a complete
stop. Turned ac off (was
> on all the way) and started it and it
died again, I had to give it gas
> with the clutch partially in to keep it
running and gradually let out
> the clutch, must have some safety mode to
keep it from dieing while
> driving (55-70) or while rpm's are up but at
the lights it would die
> when I got to 2nd-1st gear or
stopping. Any ideas? I used to have
> this problem
with my s$%**% Merkur XR4TI but that was a Ford and it
> turned out to be
the distributer, but does this car even have a
> distributor? This
is the SL (non-turbo). No codes, only the 61 right
> front
shock/strut code.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 17:21:07
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
HELP: 1994 3000gt SL wants to die at low rpm when hot
Bob-
From
what I remember, the major fuel parts are: fuel pressure regulator,
fuel pump
relay, fuel pump circuit resistor, and MFI relay. This is for a
turbo car, so
yours might not have all of those parts. If you need help
finding 'em, let me
know.
While you're under the hood, clean your throttle body. It's fast
and easy
and may help. If you have the shop manual, the instructions are
there. If
not, I believe...pull out the fat plastic intake hose and spray
some
starting fluid near the neck. Rub around the whole area and start the
puppy.
Also replace the throttle body gasket and check that all your air
intake
piping seals well. I see many notes in the FSM that say a cracked TBG
will
cause idling failure. Mine had a leak and the leak made my idle rpms
take a
dive.
I don't know how "special" this fuel pressure tool is,
but my buddy over at
a british and european auto repair place had the tool to
check my fuel
pressure, so it seems at least somewhat universal. Do you know
anyone that
might lend it to you? Perhaps a place that you routinely take you
car to
tune it up or do repairs/mods? If they value your business, they
should be
glad to do the test for you free of charge or at least lend you the
tool on
a deposit or something. No luck? Then try local retail parts stores
to buy
one. You may also want to give
www.carparts.com or
www.partsamerica.com a
try.
If
you find no luck after all that, let's think about what's going on here.
I've
taken the O-ring assembly off myself to check fuel pressure in my car
(I was
just checking that fuel was getting there when I cranked, I didn't
need a
numeric reading). But basically, this "special tool" should allow the
fuel to
pass through a coupler which measures pressure while the engine is
idling,
because you need to know pressure at idle and racing engine,
etc.
correct? Maybe you could make one too. All you'd need to do is
make a
three-way coupler that has intake, output, and a third slot to stick
the
gauge in to. Maybe easier said than done... :) And by the way,
technically
you should replace the O-ring every time you take the line out,
but I
didn't... you should try to stick to the book if possible, but don't
let
some little round piece of rubber stop you from doing this by
yourself.
Now when you're done playing with the fuel system and if you
haven't gotten
anywhere, I'll talk to you about components of the electrical.
This is a
distributorless ignition, but the coils (though highly unlikely)
can go bad.
I have a spare set of coils sitting around that I may be able to
sell you if
need be.
Good luck.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 17:35:51
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
HELP: 1994 3000gt SL wants to die at low rpm when hot
Another thing, you
may be able to narrow the problem down to your fuel
injectors. I had one of
the original AW11 Toyota MR2s and it would die at
idle and be weak until
2-3000rpm, then lots of power would kick in. I was
pretty sure it had dirty
injectors (ended up selling it as is). But what I
did to confirm this was I
let the gas almost run out, then poured in a
bottle of chevron fuel injector
cleaner. I took it to WOT and drove fast for
a while so that stuff could
really get through the fuel delivery system.
Then filled it up with 92
octane. The car worked great for a few days. And
every time I poured in a
bottle of the stuff when the gas was nearly out (to
make it really
concentrated) it did the same thing. However, I'm not sure
how good it is for
the engine to be pouring such a high concentrate of fuel
injector cleaner on
very little gas. You may want to do some research before
doing that. The only
reason I did it was because I had gotten the car for
pretty cheap anyways (it
was an autocross modified car with altered timing
and crazy intake parts) and
I was just havin a good time w/it.
Riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 21:20:01
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV - Goop!
What kind of problems?
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of dakken
Sent: Saturday, April
27, 2002 3:15 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: BOV - Goop!
Did you recently clean and re-oil your air filter
or just install a K&N? I
have read other posts of people who had
some BOV problems with a new or
re-oiled air filter.
Doug
92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 20:52:42
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine pull question
Cody said:
> What.... the
heads on our cars are simple to take off without pulling
> the engine...
talk about trying to waste your money on their labor....
> You would
have to remove a ton of crap to get the engine out... You
> only
have to remove the intake plenum and manifold really to get the
> heads
out (which incidentally have to be removed whether the engine is
> in the
car or not....) There is no way I'd let them pull my engine for
>
head work... hell, our cars engines could even be rebuilt still in the
>
car... pistons, crank, rods, everything...
I think whether you remove the
heads in the car or pull the motor to do it
the time either way is probably
the same. If you are sure you only need to
do head work, then I'd
probably do it with the motor in the car. If you
need to do anything
with the block (pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc.)
then things are a hell
of a lot easier with the motor pulled and bolted to
an engine
stand.
It really isn't that much stuff to remove the pull the motor out
of the car.
You can even get it out and back in with the tranny attached to
save time
and effort.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:03:33
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
engine dress up
I know this came up a little over a week ago but since
then I had to find
another server for my web page, in case anyone is
interested and might try
to look for my old page, here is the link to my new
web page address.
http://www.omni-vr4.com/DBest/I
also have six new spark plug plate designs that I hope to have pictures
post,
very soon, 3 are for the Spyder, one: VR4, 3000GT VR4 and a
stealth
plate.
And thanks Rick for the good words, you can see a
picture of Rick plenum on
my web page, it did come out very nice. I
also polish fuel rails $25 for
one $40 for two, or powder coat $20 for one
$35 for two, hope to have
pictures of them up on my site
shortly.
Thanks,
Dave Best
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Rick Pierce" <
piercera@pacbell.net>
To: <
msweet@neb.rr.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 19, 2002 12:15 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine dress
up
> There's a great guy on 3Si who does both powdercoating and
polishing of
the
> Valve Cover, Plenum and other related parts - name
is Dave Best (IIRC Dave
> is on this board at times as well). I was
the first one to have him do
the
> powdercoating option - I chose
"bright red" to match the Caracas Red of my
> VR - came out perfect ( I
get compliments on it all the time). He's quite
> reasonable for
both if you don't have the time, tools or artistic talent
(I
> only
have the tools).
>
> Here's his link:
http://web.tmos.org/~afortier/DBest/>
>
Michael - e-mail me off-line if you want a picture, but I think
Dave's
site
> has all you should need
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 22:41:12
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks + fuel starvation
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> Yeah but it's
an either/or choice and I'd hate to be stopping every
> 200 miles when not
racing --- I get pissed when I have to stop
> at 400
miles.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =========================================
I've thought
about a smaller tank more than once.
I really don't need or use a 20
gallon tank. The questions
that alway arise are: What about the
fuel gauge /fuel
level sender unit etc? I hate running out of gas
because
my gas gauge doesn't work. Then: What about the
fill
point. I don't want to open my trunk to fill the tank.
Would
I be able to use the existing stock fill tube / gas flap etc
..?
I'm already using steel braided lines, two fuel pump etc
so it
wouldn't be difficult to make the change except for
the fuel level sensor /
fuel gauge etc.
Anyone ever address or even think about these
issues?
- tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:01:52
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front mount oil coolers avail. soon
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 27, 2002 10:59 AM
Subject: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers
avail. soon
> Hello everyone,
> As some of you know, i changed
my name to Jack a while back. I kept going
> by Wayne on this list because
everyone knew me as such.
>
> Next week i will be moving back to my
homeland in Minnesota, and will be
> operating a Shop (Mitsubishi
Specialties). One of the first things i will
> be selling is a front mount
oil cooler kit for both Turbo and N/A 3000GT's
> and Stealths. I posted a
thread on 3si relating to this system, the link
is
>
below.
>
> The prototype is mounted and working on my car, the only
thing i need to
do
> is finish the installation manual. (wow, an
aftermarket product with
> instructions, the world is
changing)
>
> The kit is a little pricey, but most of that cost is
the cooler, which is
$465.
>
> I have not measured oil temp
because i had to get my car running ASAP so i
> could drive it to Mn
rather than pay to have it shipped. As soon as time
> permits, i will
install an oil temp guage and post the results.
>
> Jack (aka
Wayne)
> 3si thread
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=c2bccc3ca9bd877ce20b3d02fee013a2&thr>
eadid=76689
Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),
I've been
interested in a better oil cooler for some time now.
I relocated my stock
oil cooler to the front (in front of the condenser
on the driver's side) long
ago [1994] but the more mods I add, the
longer it takes for the car to cool
down. Hotter engine temps
cause more detonation and it gets/stays very
warm for many
months where I live.
Space contraints are a problem -
how big is your cooler?
[dimensions/rows etc would be helpful]
Exactly
where are you mounting? [I know it's in the front -
be specfic
please]
Why so expensive? Have you noticed what is currently on
the
market? There are some very nice oil coolers for half (or
less)
the cost you are quoting. What about the lines (steel
braided?),
are they included - AN fittings? Optional fan?
More
info/explanation (especially on the price) please.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 00:10:42
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Rotors removed; was Re: Cannot remove brake rotors
The rotors are off the
car. Thanks to everyone who sent advice and
comments. Your ideas gave me
some food for thought and I came up with my
own solution.
Removing
the rotors did not take much effort. Just some good thinking. I
ended up
using a modified version of the idea that Vineet sent to me
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html.
In
that case, the author, Tom Stangl, uses a bolt inserted into the caliper
mounting bracket with a nut on it. The nut pushes against the bracket,
while the bolt pushes the rotor. Do not be afraid to apply some force to
those brackets. They are strong enough to hold the brake calipers that stop
the car.
I have not used this bolt and nut technique but it would
work on the rear
3S rotors. The front 3S rotors are a little different.
There is only about
3 mm there between the caliper mounting brackets and the
rotors - not
enough room to insert a nut.
So, because there is only 3
mm between the bracket and the rotor, I wedged
a chisel in there. Yanked on
it couple times and viola - the rotor has
moved! I turned the rotor 180
degrees and did the same thing on the other
side. The rotor came
off.
I used the same technique on the rear rotors. There is more room
between
the caliper mounting brackets and the rotors on rear brakes, so I
put a big
wrench underneath the chisel. It worked just as well.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SOAKING
THE RUSTY ROTORS IN THREAD PENETRANT:
Of course I sprayed everything with
a thread penetrant. I used Liquid
Wrench. I do not trust WD-40 because of a
too-multifunction nature of that
product. I sprayed Liquid Wrench into the
two threaded holes on the flange
of the rotors, into the clearance between
the wheel studs and the rotor,
and on the back of the front rotors because
from there you can reach the
hub on which the rotors are seated. Do not
spray behind the rear rotors.
You won't be able to reach the hub but you
will wet the brake shoes of the
parking drum brake.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SUMMARY:
Removing
brake rotors has been a long-time recurring problem for car
enthusiasts.
Those rotors seat there as it they are glued to the wheel hub.
There were
many techniques that have been invented over the years so I
would like to
summarize those that I heard of for everyone's future reference.
0)
Spraying everything but the parking brake shoes with thread penetrant.
This
could and should be done before any method is tried. It just won't
hurt
anything.
1) Wedging a chisel between the caliper mounting bracket and
the rotor.
This method was invented by me, therefore it is my favorite!
:-)
2) Screwing the bolts into the two special threaded holes on the
flange of
the rotors.
Works only on newer cars before the rotors rust to
the hub or the threaded
holes rust beyond recognition. The thread is not M10
or M8, it is a much
finer thread. I have new front rotors and M10 won't go
in those holes just
as M8 won't go into the rear rotors.
4) A huge
mallet method.
Reported to work very well if you do not want to keep the
rotors. I decided
to turn my rotors, reuse the rear ones and keep the front
ones as spares.
5) A rubber mallet method.
Not as effective as a heavy
steel mallet but does not damage the rotor.
6) The bolt and nut technique
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html.
Requires
little effort but not nearly as much fun as hammering on something
and see
it move.
7) Utilizing power steering.
This technique involves placing
a block of wood behind the rotor, propping
it somewhere against the
suspension or car's body where it won't hurt
anything, and using the power
steering to force it off. While reported to
be successful in some cases, I
tried it, and I did not like the way my
suspension was flexing when I was
applying pressure to the steering wheel.
This technique could be hard on the
suspension and the steering linkages.
8) Torch and
hammer.
Theoretically, you can heat the rotor til it's red but be careful not
to
burn the wheel bearing lube.
9) Take it to the
dealer.
Outsource all the hard and low-tech work.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SIDE
NOTES:
The four rotors weigh 66 lbs! WOW! Has anyone heard of carbon
fiber rotors
for our cars?
Thanks a lot to everyone who sent advice
and comments. Special thanks to
Vineet. Buy his Manual CD if you have not
done so already
http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd.
Philip
'95
Red R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 23:19:21
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
> Jack/Wayne (what's up with
that?),
>
> I've been interested in a better oil cooler for some
time now.
>
> I relocated my stock oil cooler to the front (in
front of the condenser
> on the driver's side) long ago [1994] but the
more mods I add, the
> longer it takes for the car to cool down.
Hotter engine temps
> cause more detonation and it gets/stays very warm
for many
> months where I live.
>
> Space contraints are a
problem - how big is your cooler?
> [dimensions/rows etc would be
helpful]
>
> Exactly where are you mounting? [I know it's in the
front -
> be specfic please]
>
> Why so expensive? Have
you noticed what is currently on the
> market? There are some very
nice oil coolers for half (or less)
> the cost you are quoting. What
about the lines (steel braided?),
> are they included - AN fittings?
Optional fan?
>
> More info/explanation (especially on the price)
please.
>
> - tds
>
http://www.brightok.net/~tdsWell
- after looking at the pics and seeing the prices
for the kits:
Twin
Turbo = $699
N/A = $759
And the fun time to install, I must say that
this is ludicrous!
Doesn't even come with steel braided lines ....
And
for those that wonder why - browse the oil cooler setups
at Summitt
Racing, Jegs, Racer Parts Wholesale, Pegasus etc etc
For Example: A
Mocal 32 Row (all alluminum - braised into
a one piece unit with
oilways containing turbulators, oilways
are interspaced with corrugations
proving airways between the
plates and louvered. Tested by immersion to
170 psi)
Top Model: $260
That's one of the more expensive coolers
on the market.
You gotta be kidding Wayne/Jack ....
Maybe I should
go buy a few Motels and resale
them for $700+?!
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 01:23:04
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: S-AFC, S-ITC
Who has these available for a good price??? Is
the S-ITC even available
anymore??? I can't find it on Apexi's
website... If it is available,
does anyone have one installed on a
3/S??? Also, does it look like the
new S-AFC with the VF Display, or
the older, knob style???
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 06:43:55
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: S-AFC, S-ITC
I have both installed. I haven't played with the
S-ITC yet but I will play
with it soon. It looks like the older-style S-AFC
with five knobs. Apexi
does not make them anymore. They explained to me that
they could not make
them work with NGC (new generation controllers) for some
reason. I bought
mine last year, so I cannot help you with availability. But
if you get them
I can help you with
installation.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 06:50:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: S-AFC, S-ITC
you can find ITCs in the $250 range I
think. I did.
A photo is here:
http://www.alltrac.net/manuals/-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 16:01:51
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front mount oil coolers avail. soon 2
I still can't see any
improvement over our stock oil coolers. The oil temp
has never been a
problem so far and it will also not help to cool down when
the car stands
still. In fact, Luis from Spain saw the oil temp rising when
in traffic and
it came down very fast after driving a little bit (sensor in
drain
plug)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 23:19 28.04.2002 -0500, Todd
D.Shelton wrote:
> > Jack/Wayne (what's up with that?),
>
>
> > I've been interested in a better oil cooler for some time
now.
> >
> > I relocated my stock oil cooler to the front (in
front of the condenser
> > on the driver's side) long ago [1994] but
the more mods I add, the
> > longer it takes for the car to cool
down. Hotter engine temps
> > cause more detonation and it
gets/stays very warm for many
> > months where I live.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#825
***************************************