Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, April 26
2002 Volume 01 : Number
823
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Apr 2002 21:58:16 -0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Greddy e-manage piggy-back fuel computer
Hey, I was looking
around Greddy's site, and was wondering if anyone has ever used their e-manage
piggy back computer which connects
with the existing ECU and allows you to
modify some of the engine parameters like some of the modified ECU's.
But
the advantage of their system is that it can be modified with a PC.
Has
anyone actually used this ? Would it be a good upgrade for my car, web
page listed below ?
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htmThanks
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:11:08
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks + fuel starvation
I think the chances of an explosion are
minimal --- a flash fire will melt
them to your hands though. Napalm is about
the same in terms of
damage --- there's a reason you're required a nomex
helmet liner and
recommend that you wear cotton. Nomex and cotton don't melt
when
heated.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
As soon as those gloves explode..you have the right to call me wrong.
>
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, fastmax wrote:
> >
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> > > Your gas tank.
> > >
> > > Your
ass.
> >
> > This from a guy who wears nylon racing gloves
!!! talk about hanging your
> > ass out --- or at least your
hands.
> >
> > > Racing costs money..go out with a
full tank is my freebie racing solution.
> >
> > That
of course doesn't address the safety issue ---- as I increase power and
>
> handling I increase the overall speeds so in a perfect world I'd have a
kick
> > ass fuel cell with foam and bladders and in tank pumps and an
on board
> > fire suppression system. In that I've yet to win the
lottery I'll have to settle
> > for some mods to my existing tank ---
baffles and some kind of sump will help
> > prevent fuel starvation,
foam will provide additional safety in case of a tank
> > puncture and
also help with sloshing. In addition I have already acquired and
> >
will install an inertial cutoff for the fuel pump(s) in case of an
accident.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
---
> Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:39:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Ok..im back from the gym
now.
Dude..sorry about the snap. My job just went in to critical
stress zone
today..and its not coming down for 6 months..so ive been in a
foul mood of
extreme levels all day.
You didnt deserve the
lash.
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, fastmax wrote:
> > That of
course doesn't address the safety issue ---- as I increase power and
>
> handling I increase the overall speeds so in a perfect world I'd have a
kick
> > ass fuel cell with foam and bladders and in tank pumps and an
on board
> > fire suppression system. In that I've yet to win the
lottery I'll have to settle
> > for some mods to my existing tank ---
baffles and some kind of sump will help
> > prevent fuel starvation,
foam will provide additional safety in case of a tank
> > puncture and
also help with sloshing. In addition I have already acquired and
> >
will install an inertial cutoff for the fuel pump(s) in case of an
accident.
> > Jim
Berry
- ---
Geoff Mohler
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 23:52:27
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Big red pads
I just ordered a set of R4 pads. Are there any
special break-in procedures
for them that have to be followed? How does not
following those procedures
would destroy rotors (I have new rotors now
too).
Philip
At 16:52 4/25/2002, Yoss wrote:
>I lost both my
stock front rotors (within 1 day of regular driving) to the R4
>pads
because I didn't pay close attention to the seating procedures for
these
>pads. You may want to really brake the hell outta the R4 pads
to the point of
>near-complete fade and get them seated, if you want to
preserve your rotors.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 23:58:38
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pocket Logger help diagnosing stuffs.
I don't know, but I
have the same problem that shows up around 5000-5500 rpm
in 1st. I have
15G's, 550cc, vpc/safc, etc. and I don't know what is wrong
with mine either;
I'm thinking I might replace my knock sensor to see if
that does anything
since it is ~10 years old.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Infernalist
Sent: Thursday,
April 25, 2002 12:37 AM
To: Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Pocket Logger help
diagnosing stuffs.
hey all, I have a prob im hoping someone can help me
with. I have a stumble
that occurs at around 5000 rpm in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd
(havent gone that high
in 4th). I just purchased the pocketlogger to watch
and here is what happens
on 2 seperate runs of light acceleration till around
2krpm then wot till
bog/backfire whatever it is.
RPM Knock
Timing
1st gear
3000 0 34
4000 0 23
4500 0 20
5000 0 24
5062 6
23
5593 (peaked) 6 24
2nd gear
3437 0 34
4031 0 18
4500 0
21
5031 12 21
5500 (peaked) 11 23
the mods are below, i boosted to
1.05 bar on the avc-r which is approx
15psi. there was NO overboost there,
both avcr and gauge showed max at
15psi. i have a new fuel filter (2k ago)
new plugs (2k ago but w/stock gap
was this bad?) and wires also (2k ago) is
this possibly fuel cut? I dont
really know what im looking for in the
injector pulse width to tell if im
maxing out, or if possibly im not getting
enough fuel in. it seems that my
o2 sensor is maxing at around .94 volts and
the Injectors maxed out at
20.769.
does anyone see anything obvious
here (please say yes) Im looking forward to
learning all about logging/tuning
this summer, but this stumble is really
tickin me off. thanks in
advance!!
Ron
1992 RT/TT
Apexi AVC-R (1.05 Bar)
Gutted Rear
Precat
TurboXS H-RFL BOV
DN Performance Y-Pipe
Stillen DownPipe
RPS
Max Series Clutch
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
8mm Wires
Autometer Boost
Gauge on A-pillar
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was free
;)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 23:59:30
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pocket Logger help diagnosing stuffs.
Could spark blowout
show up as knock?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent:
Thursday, April 25, 2002 7:33 AM
To: Infernalist; Team3s
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pocket Logger help diagnosing stuffs.
ROn it sounds like spark
blowout especially since the way you are describing
the symptom. Sorry
man but you are gonna have to pull all your plugs and
gap htem down to
.034
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 21:12:12
-0700
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front end rattling
I've noticed rattling coming from the front of
the car, particularly the
left side, especially after hitting a bump or
dip. It feels and sounds like
it oscillates a bit, then goes
away. Left front tire has noticeable wear at
the outside edge.
It's a 92 VR4 with ECS, 108,000 miles. I've owned it for
5 mos, 2000
miles. Records that I have don't indicate strut or other
front
suspension work. Sound like a strut? Any
suggestions/warnings
for
diagnosis/repair/upgrade?
Thanks.
Michael
in Portland,
but moving to Atlanta
Charcoal 92 VR4, unmodified
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 00:08:56
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Brake
bias; was Re: Team3S: Big red pads
I know my brakes were screwed up
before I went to Gingerman. My impression
was that my car war rear brake
biased because if I was braking while the
steering wheel was not straight my
rear end wanted to come around. But I
melted the front rotors and brake pads
while at Gingerman and my car became
even more rear brake biased. It is
really hard to approach turns with rear
brake bias and trail braking becomes
almost impossible too.
I thought of actually increasing front brake bias
on my car that day. Just
curious, does anyone know how mechanical brake bias
regulators work and how
they could be adapted to our
cars?
Philip
At 16:52 4/25/2002, Yoss wrote:
>BTW, my rear
stock pads still have a lot of life in them. Are our cars
setup
>with a front brake bias? If so, is it possible to setup a
neutral bias? Are
>there any disadvantages to upsetting the stock
bias?
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 22:19:22
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front end rattling
I have seen the same thing on both of my
cars for two different reasons. On
my Celica it was making a rattling
sound in the front end every time I hit a
bump. Turned out it was the
middle support bearing for the long drive shaft
that had a bolt missing and
was loose rattling. On my Stealth I heard
rattling every time my left
front wheel hit a bump. There was also some
wheel hop. It is a
bad strut. I have a new set of struts on order and I
will be replacing
them myself.
To be sure that it is a strut, you should drive over a few
bumps and pay
particular attention to how your car sounds and feels.
Can you feel one of
your front wheels "hopping" or "bucking" every time you
hit a bump? Can you
isolate it to just one side? Have you crawled
underneath your car and
looked at all the suspension parts? While under
there you should grab your
suspension parts and try to shake them to see if
anything is loose. Be sure
that all of your bushings are in good shape
and not torn up. With your left
tire jacked up off the ground, you
should check the bearing. It should not
bind with the transmission in
neutral and there should definately not be any
play in the
bearing.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 00:34:20
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front end rattling
> I've noticed rattling coming from the
front of the car, particularly the
> left side, especially after hitting a
bump or dip. It feels and sounds
like
> it oscillates a bit, then
goes away.
My '94 VR4 did that - I sold the car before I had a chance to
dig in and fix
the problem, but one of the subsequent owners reported that
the upper strut
mounting bolts (?) were loose. Tightening them solved
the problem. Take
the wheel off and make sure all the bolts on the
suspension components are
tight (A-arm, swaybar links, struts). Take a
good look at the rubber
bushings as well and make sure they aren't torn or
worn out. Best to check
both sides of the car while you are at
it.
Also maybe grab the wheel before you remove it and the car is on
jackstands
and push/pull on the lower edge - any wiggle there may indicate a
worn lower
balljoint.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 02:06:19
-0400
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@directvinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks
I had a similar problem when the engine was
running out of gas in a 1/4
mile run. I literally ran out of fuel a few
miles later. I was just
wondering if I could have caused any damage
when the car ran out of fuel
in 2nd gear around 5500 RPM. It felt like
hesitation at first, and
eventually it felt like fuel cut. Obviously I
took it easy beyond that,
getting a 15 second at 82 mph (compared to 12.9 at
111 several months
back). I was just wondering if those few seconds of
fuel starvation
could have caused much damage... the cars runs excellent now
that it has
fuel again :)
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
>>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:14:39 -0500
>>From: "Matt
Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks
>>
>>> Don't believe so, Jim.
Just a big bunch of open-celled foam like
most
>>> tanks have I
imagine.
>>
>>Most tanks don't have foam in them, just racing
fuel cells.
>>
>>> So if there were baffles it would not
act like this. It is just
fuel
>>> sloshing around in
there as you can hear this when it is partially
>>> full and you
take a spirited drive down a curvy road.
>>
>>As usual, Jeff
has the answer on his website...
>>
>>"The fuel tank has the
following features:
>>
>>Baffle plates are placed inside the
fuel tank to prevent abnormal
noise due to fuel
movement.
>>
>>There is a reserve cup inside the fuel tank for
smooth supply of fuel
even when there is little fuel
remaining."
>>
>>http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_14-28.gif
>>
>>There's
a cup there, but it is fairly small. At WOT the pump can flow
quite a
bit of fuel in a short time, and the >>fuel still sloshes inside
the
cup away from the pump pickup, so it isn't enough for racing
purposes where
you could >>be hard in a corner for a significant period
of time.
I've run into the same problem autocrossing, so I race with
>>more than
1/2 a tank of fuel to prevent that problem (running lean at
WOT if the fuel
sloshes away is not a good >>idea).
>>
>>-
-Matt
>>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 00:50:34
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front end rattling
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
> I've
noticed rattling coming from the front of the car, particularly the
left
side, especially after hitting a bump or dip. It feels and sounds
like
it oscillates a bit, then goes away. Left front tire has
noticeable wear at
the outside edge. It's a 92 VR4 with ECS, 108,000
miles. I've owned it for
5 mos, 2000 miles. Records that I have
don't indicate strut or other front
suspension work. Sound like a
strut? Any suggestions/warnings for
diagnosis/repair/upgrade?
>
Thanks.
> Michael
> in Portland, but moving to Atlanta
>
Charcoal 92 VR4, unmodified
-
-------------------------------------------->
I've seen the other
members' suggestions, and they're good ones. But you
can still hope
that it's simply a bent rim or seriously bad alignment. Take
it to an
alignment shop that does high-speed wheel balancing, too, and find
out
*everything* that's wrong with it.
Best,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 06:25:06
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front end rattling
I've had two cars with the same
symptoms(mine and a customers). Make sure
that you check for loose
bolts, but if you find nothing then try the next
cheapest....that is
replacing the stabilizer bushings(sway bar) bushings.
The rubber gets
hard, worn and sloppy with age. I replaced my stabilizer
links at the
same time, but I'm pretty sure that it was the bushings. They
are
located in the chassis mount points for the front stabilizer bar. There
are two of them and only cost $3-$4 bucks each and about an hour to
replace.
I'd bet that this fixes your problem, but if not, go on to the
next least
expensive solution.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden"
<
rhoden@easystreet.com>
>To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: Front end rattling
>Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 21:12:12
-0700
>
>I've noticed rattling coming from the front of the car,
particularly the
>left side, especially after hitting a bump or dip.
It feels and sounds
>like
>it oscillates a bit, then goes
away. Left front tire has noticeable wear
>at
>the outside
edge. It's a 92 VR4 with ECS, 108,000 miles. I've owned it
>for
>5 mos, 2000 miles. Records that I have don't indicate
strut or other front
>suspension work. Sound like a strut? Any
suggestions/warnings
for
>diagnosis/repair/upgrade?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Michael
>in
Portland, but moving to Atlanta
>Charcoal 92 VR4,
unmodified
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 07:49:45
EDT
From:
JayBobski@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Bent
Valves
I am putting my engine back together - new crank ,
bearings,oil pump etc.
- - and when I brought my flywheel into the
shop to have it turned I asked the
owner about over revving from a missed
shift. He said there was a distinct
possibility of bent valves caused by the
piston hitting valves that were
"floating" due to spring pressure . He
suggested a compression test before
firing it up ( which I will do ) . What
are the odds that this has happened.
I was not in the car at the time it
happened but I am assuming it hit 9k to
10k rpm .
John Janicek
(depressed in Westmont) 91 VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 05:11:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
Positive it's SOHC.
1) I
looked.
2) CAPS Confirmed JA3AM44H0XY002583
Rims are made by Focal, I
think it had Toyo tires.
Car was being sold by Acura of Seattle if anyone
is
interested.
Glenn
'93 VR-4
- --- tri <
thn@dexray.com> wrote:
> I just looked
at the picture. The '99 has a moonroof
> and chrome rims. Are
> you
sure that has an SOHC engine? It might be an SL
> with a DOHC. Unless
I'm
> mistaken and they made SL's with SOHC's. I'm pretty
> sure the
base models
> didn't have a moonroof and chrome rims.
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:42 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Questions 1999
base model
>
>
> > Exactly. No matter how good the car
looks, the
> base model is still a very
> > under powered car.
The base model carries the same
> amount of weight as the
> > SL.
The VR4 is a bit heavier due to the all wheel
> drive.
>
>
> > Look for a SL or a VR4. You will be much happier
> with
the performance.
> >
> > Regards,
> > --
> >
Matt Costanza
> > Austin, Tx USA
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:09:59
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big red pads
R4 pads have a rather high minimum operating
temperature. That's why they
chunk when you use them on the street -
you don't maintain enough heat in
the pads to keep them in the operating
range. R4S pads have a lower minimum
operating temperature making them
suitable for the street.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, April 25, 2002 4:02 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Big red pads
>
> My R4s on 12.75" custom Porterfield squealed ALL
of the time.
> They even broke off in big chunks : (
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 2:53 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Big red pads
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:18:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front end rattling
Sounds like a similar problem that I had
on my '94 VR4 that three shops
couldn't diagnose. When I hit a bump
with my left tire, I could feel a
brief vibration transmitted to the steering
wheel. A competant body shop
diagnosed the broken strut. I
replaced it and all is cool. I didn't have
the tire wear you're
describing. When was the last time you had a 4 wheel
alignment?
At 108K miles, you should be thinking about replacing the wheel
bearings, at
least in front.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden
[SMTP:rhoden@easystreet.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:12
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Front end rattling
>
> I've noticed rattling coming from the front of the car, particularly
the
> left side, especially after hitting a bump or dip. It feels
and sounds
> like
> it oscillates a bit, then goes away. Left
front tire has noticeable wear
> at
> the outside edge. It's a
92 VR4 with ECS, 108,000 miles. I've owned it
> for
> 5 mos,
2000 miles. Records that I have don't indicate strut or other
>
front
> suspension work. Sound like a strut? Any
suggestions/warnings for
> diagnosis/repair/upgrade?
>
>
Thanks.
>
> Michael
> in Portland, but moving to
Atlanta
> Charcoal 92 VR4, unmodified
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:22:20
-0700
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big red pads
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
> I just ordered
a set of R4 pads. Are there any special break-in procedures
> for them
that have to be followed?
The special "bedding in" (I've been using the
term "seating" in my messages)
procedure can be found at:
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com
under the link "PADS"
Scroll near the bottom of the page and look for
this section:
R-4 CARBON KEVLAR BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
> How does not
following those procedures
> would destroy rotors (I have new rotors now
too).
I'm not quite sure why the pads eat away the rotors. I called
Porterfield
and explained the situation, and they didn't act surprised at
all. It was
then that they suggested I switch to R4S
-
-sankar
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:19:33
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Bent Valves
I would not wait til the engine is back in the
car to find out that the
valves are bent. Before you put the engine back
together, check the old
piston tops for dents from the valves. If the pistons
touched the valves
there must be dent marks left.
Screw some old spark
plugs in. Turn the heads upside down and poor some
kerosine in the combustion
chambers. See if the kerosine leaks out through
the valves. If you find any
bent valves buy new ones and relap them. If
the valves are not bent but still
leak, relap them as well. Not a big deal
now that your already took the
engine apart.
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------------
I am
putting my engine back together - new crank , bearings,oil pump
etc.
- -
and when I brought my flywheel into the shop to have it turned I
asked
the
owner about over revving from a missed shift. He said there was
a distinct
possibility of bent valves caused by the piston hitting valves
that were
"floating" due to spring pressure . He suggested a compression test
before
firing it up ( which I will do ) . What are the odds that this
has
happened.
I was not in the car at the time it happened but I am
assuming it hit 9k
to
10k rpm .
John Janicek (depressed in
Westmont) 91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:18:08
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Accel coils- to MSD or not to MSD
There are four Accel coils,
which one are you talking about ?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team
3S'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"'Stealth'"
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Friday, April 26, 2002 1:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: Accel coils- to MSD or not to
MSD
> There was talk a while back that we might be able to run the
Accel
> ignition coils without using a MSD unit.
> What was decided
?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:03:58
-0500
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Real redline for 97 3000GT SL
I just had my 60K mi scheduled tune
up done on my 97 SL (done at 42K
miles). I take my car to a independent shop
that specializes in Japanese
performance cars. They owner is a good friend of
mine and has owned two
VR-4's, a 300ZX TT and now owns a 97 Supra TT.
As they were doing the work, he was asking me how hard i've run
the
engine. His specific question was "how close to the redline have you
run
it". I told him from 2nd through 3rd, I've brought it up to around
6K
RPM's (7K is redline).
He cautioned me to keep it below 5K
RPM's if I would like to get any
life out of the engine. Seems that he has
found that The 3.0L DOHC 222
HP engine really does not redline at 7K. It
really redlines at a more
realistic 6K.
Anyone here agree with this?
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:05:52
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Real redline for 97 3000GT SL
The *real* redline (where valve
float becomes a problem) is closer to 8500 RPM
according to conversations I
have had with GT PRO. Matt at Dynamic Racing
races his car 8000+ RPM.
The heads are basically identical for turbo and non-turbo
versions.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htmRedline
in the ECM is ~7500 RPM. I have taken my engine (built '92 TT) many
times to
7000-7200 RPM without "over-rev" fuel cut or noticeable valve float.
But
it is absolutely true, keep the RPM to 5000 and below and perform all
routine maintenance and the engine should live longer than if it is
routinely
driven to 7000 RPM. Duh! :)
IMHO, take your non-turbo to
7000 RPM and don't give it a second thought. Your
non-turbo DOHC engine
internally is basically the same as in the turbo models,
so it is way
over-engineered for its power output. Enjoy your car!
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
To:
"3000gt" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 26, 2002 11:03 AM
Subject: Team3S: Real redline for 97 3000GT
SL
I just had my 60K mi scheduled tune up done on my 97 SL (done at
42K
miles). I take my car to a independent shop that specializes in
Japanese
performance cars. They owner is a good friend of mine and has owned
two
VR-4's, a 300ZX TT and now owns a 97 Supra TT.
As they were doing
the work, he was asking me how hard i've run the
engine. His specific
question was "how close to the redline have you run
it". I told him from 2nd
through 3rd, I've brought it up to around 6K
RPM's (7K is redline).
He cautioned me to keep it below 5K RPM's if I would like to get
any
life out of the engine. Seems that he has found that The 3.0L DOHC
222
HP engine really does not redline at 7K. It really redlines at a
more
realistic 6K.
Anyone here agree with this?
Regards,
-
--
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 15:57:03
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Real redline for 97 3000GT SL
I have 60K on my 96 DOHC.
It take it to 7000rpm in 2nd whenever the mood hits.
In third, it
goes to 6800rpm, but the power falls off so fast there it
usually doesn't
make sense to go further.
At the track I go to 6500-6800.. All the Time.
Drags and Road course.
Car runs better than ever, in fact I'm afraid to
do the 60K, know something
will not come back right.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Costanza
[mailto:mcostanza@austin.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 10:04 AM
To:
3000gt
Subject: Team3S: Real redline for 97 3000GT SL
I just had my
60K mi scheduled tune up done on my 97 SL (done at 42K
miles). I take my car
to a independent shop that specializes in Japanese
performance cars. They
owner is a good friend of mine and has owned two
VR-4's, a 300ZX TT and now
owns a 97 Supra TT.
As they were doing the work, he was asking me how
hard i've run the
engine. His specific question was "how close to the redline
have you run
it". I told him from 2nd through 3rd, I've brought it up to
around 6K
RPM's (7K is redline).
He cautioned me to keep it
below 5K RPM's if I would like to get any
life out of the engine. Seems that
he has found that The 3.0L DOHC 222
HP engine really does not redline at 7K.
It really redlines at a more
realistic 6K.
Anyone here agree with
this?
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx
USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 13:01:49
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@mvplabels.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Real redline for 97 3000GT SL
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
-
-------------snip----------->
> He cautioned me to keep it below 5K
RPM's if I would like to get any life
out of the engine. Seems that he has
found that The 3.0L DOHC 222 HP engine
really does not redline at 7K. It
really redlines at a more realistic 6K.
> Anyone here agree with
this?
> Regards,
> Matt Costanza
> Austin, Tx USA
-
----------------------------->
Redline for the SOHC is 6000, with a
real max of 6200-6300 (rev limiter).
Redline for the non-turbo DOHC is the
same as for the turbo, 7000, with the
rev limiter at ~7200. Running
below 5k is considered serious "babying". At
6000RPM, you reach 222HP;
at 5000, it's only around 185HP. Our cars are
perfectly capable of
redlining repeatedly, and IMO, it's actually good for
the car to do so.
My (SOHC) car never runs better than after a weekend of
running at 6k at the
track-- 8- 20-minute sessions for each of two days. At
6k the whole
time, except a couple of times a day when I bump the limiter.
The rev limiter
is there to make sure you stay in a range that is safe for
your engine.
High performance engines are bench tested at redline for
100,000 miles or
more *continuously* before that engine design is deemed
acceptable for
sale. (Nissan runs theirs to ~250k miles, so they claim).
The 3S DOHC
(turbo or NT) car class is "GTO", or "Gran Turismo Omologato",
which means,
"homologated for racing". Your engine is *made* to redline
comfortably,
so stop worrying about doing 6k on a tach that redlines at
7k... My car
feels best when it's running at its rated horsepower, reached
at 5500.
Yours should feel best running at 222HP, at 6000RPM, and be safe
right up to
red line.
Buying an high-performance car and never running it over
5k? That's like
buying a diamond and keeping it in a safe. Why
bother?
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 22:16:15
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big red pads
Ferodos are stock pads available from
Porsche.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> The are for a '96 Twin
Turbo 911 model 993 or 996.
> The Porsche internal number for the pads is
901771 or 99335194900.
> Chris at Performance Products has them
800-423-3173
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 22:15:20
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ferodo
Nothing available from them. They don't even know what
a 3000GT is.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Ferodo clutches are not
available in the US to my knowldge, so does
anybody
> in Europe have
access to Ferodo clutches for VR-4's?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 13:33:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine pull question
I'm pulling my engine next week to work on
the valves.
The question is this is a good time to change engine
mounts
and clutch, does someone have a clutch that is
beter then stock that I should
use and also what would
be the best engine type mounts to install. I won't
be
using the car at the track so the clutch dosn't need
to be a track
clutch only a very good street racing
one.
peter 92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 13:49:40
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bent Valves
Those are kind of my thoughts also --- if you have the engine
out go
ahead and pull the heads, it's a lot easier now. The engine can
take
8K but when you get to 10 or more you're probably looking at
problems.
If this it the engines first rebuild I'd freshen the
heads.
Jim Berry
========================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
>
I would not wait til the engine is back in the car to find out that the
>
valves are bent. Before you put the engine back together, check the old
>
piston tops for dents from the valves. If the pistons touched the valves
>
there must be dent marks left.
>
> Screw some old spark plugs in.
Turn the heads upside down and poor some
> kerosine in the combustion
chambers. See if the kerosine leaks out through
> the valves. If you find
any bent valves buy new ones and relap them. If
> the valves are not bent
but still leak, relap them as well. Not a big deal
> now that your already
took the engine apart.
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 22:50:49
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine pull question
The engine must not be pulled at all for
a valve nor a clutch job.
Go with a RPS Stage 1 clutch for the
street.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "tam 3S"
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 26, 2002 10:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Engine pull
question
> I'm pulling my engine next week to work on the
valves.
> The question is this is a good time to change engine
>
mounts and clutch, does someone have a clutch that is
> beter then stock
that I should use and also what would
> be the best engine type mounts to
install. I won't be
> using the car at the track so the clutch dosn't
need
> to be a track clutch only a very good street racing
>
one.
>
> peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 13:57:50
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ferodo
In Japan they had one for a skyline, so maybe they know
what a GTO is??
At 10:15 PM 4/26/02 +0200, Roger Gerl
wrote:
>Nothing available from them. They don't even know what a 3000GT
is.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:07:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine pull question
Roger, where would I get that clutch "RPS
Stage 1
clutch", from? Also while the engine need not be
pulled to get at
the valves the shop that will be
doing the work has pulled a lot of the
engines and
they said it was easy for them to do that, they did
have three
other vr4's in at the time all with the
engines out. They said it was easy
for them to do it
that way. I'm also looking for new front break
pads,
that are not quite a dusty as stock but fit right in.
peter 92
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 17:15:01
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV question
My '94 VR-4 is my first turbo car so I'm not quite
up to speed on all there
is to know about turbos so help me out
here.
What does and aftermarket BOV do/help? Also, I've read on some
vendor pages
that some BOV vent the extra pressure into the atmosphere which
might cause
idling problems and might cause the engine to stall. Soem
recommend a BOV
that vents the extra pressure right back into the intake. is
a fuel manager
needed if i want to install a BOV? Below is a list of the
planned mods I'm
gonna make on my car this summer. I've already purchased
some of these and
will be buying the rest in the next few weeks. WOuld I
benefit/need a BOV?
K&N FIPK-have already
Denso Iridium plugs-have
already
Magnecor 8.5mm wires-have already
ATR downpipe (assuming I go with
the ATR Cat-back)
ATR or Borla Cat-Back with high-flow cat (which one is
best?)
Turbo XS dual stage boost controller-ordered
Blitz turbo
timer
boost gauge
ACT or RPS street clutch with fidanza aluminum flywheel
(got the flywheel
from a buddy for real cheaps, $150)
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:24:51
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Engine pull question
You can get one from dynamic racing.
I put an
rps stage 2 in - works great. grabby, but not
enough to be a pain in
traffic.
Alex
'95 vr4
> Roger, where would I get that clutch
"RPS Stage 1
> clutch", from? Also while the engine need not be
>
pulled to get at the valves the shop that will be
> doing the work has
pulled a lot of the engines and
> they said it was easy for them to do
that, they did
> have three other vr4's in at the time all with
the
> engines out. They said it was easy for them to do it
> that
way. I'm also looking for new front break pads,
> that are not quite a
dusty as stock but fit right in.
> peter 92 TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 22:06:30
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV - Goop!
Hey Guys,
Installed my HKS BOV about 4-5
months ago, and after installing my boost
controller today, i noticed a
patch of goop on the bottom of my hood, where
the BOV points to. Since i
removed the rotting tinfoil thingy on the inside
of the hood about 4-5
months ago too, I am sure it is coming out of the
valve.
It is not
slippery oil, more like tree sap, but not as sticky (dried oil
maybe?) Also
noticed it is making a different noise now, but dont know if
its because of
the boost cont. Instead of the old PSSHHHHhhhhh, it now goes
PSSHHHPSHHpshhpshh...Sounds like insteaed of just opening and releasing, its
opening and closing repeatedly, as it blows off.
I think it might be
gummed up with all that gunk! What the heck could be
causing that?
My
baby is sick! Any comment/suggestions/HELP?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:56:17
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Real redline for 97 3000GT SL
Matt-
I also own a 97 SL
with bout 48K miles on it. Its an automatic, so regualting
the tach is no
where near as easy as in a manual. i have a few poblems with
your
friends theory. First, perhaps he got it confused with an SOHC, which
redlines at 6K. Second, ive heard from many owners with 91 and 92 SL's
with
over 150K miles on them, and they run fine. Finally, it just deosnt
make
sense for mitsu to put a "false" redline at 7 grand. If the engine isnt
designed to run at that speed, then it would surely break down before you
hit
50K. The power peak is at 6 grand in our cars, but theres
still a bit more
pull in that last 1000 RPM.
Its a sports car, designed
to be driven like one, so dont hold back. Simply
keep up on tune ups and
your baby will run fine for many years.
- -mike
97 Red
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:39:08
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Best price
on Volk Wheels
I am planning to get a set of Volk TE-37s in 17x9 for my
R/T TT. So far I
have been able to get a price of just over $2000
shipped to my door
(including center caps). Does anyone know of any
shops selling for less
than this? Or better yet - anyone selling a used
set?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
3Si #129
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 19:01:25
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine pull question
What.... the heads on our cars are
simple to take off without pulling
the engine... talk about trying to waste
your money on their labor....
You would have to remove a ton of crap to
get the engine out... You
only have to remove the intake plenum and
manifold really to get the
heads out (which incidentally have to be removed
whether the engine is
in the car or not....) There is no way I'd let
them pull my engine for
head work... hell, our cars engines could even be
rebuilt still in the
car... pistons, crank, rods, everything...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of menalteed
Sent: Friday,
April 26, 2002 4:08 PM
To: Roger Gerl
Cc: tam 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine pull question
Roger, where would I get that clutch "RPS Stage
1
clutch", from? Also while the engine need not be
pulled to get at the
valves the shop that will be
doing the work has pulled a lot of the engines
and
they said it was easy for them to do that, they did
have three other
vr4's in at the time all with the
engines out. They said it was easy for them
to do it
that way. I'm also looking for new front break pads,
that are not
quite a dusty as stock but fit right in.
peter 92 TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 00:10:37
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Best price on Volk Wheels
i don't know how much over 2k you are, but i
was
shopping for those around christmas time and
www.wheeloptions.com had them for ~450
each for 18's.
I'm assuming the 17s would be cheaper
Alex.
'95
VR4
> I am planning to get a set of Volk TE-37s in 17x9 for
my R/T
TT. So far I
> have been able to get a price of just over $2000
shipped to my door
> (including center caps). Does anyone know
of any
shops selling for less
> than this? Or better yet -
anyone selling a used set?
>
> Thanks,
> Oskar
> '95
R/T TT
> 3Si #129
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:52:18
-0400
From: "Pierre Routhier" <
pierre.routhier@videotron.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS light coming ON when Driving
Anyone experienced this problem
which I assume would not be specific to me.
All self tests seems OK when
starting car but ABS warning lights up when I
start driving.
Car is about
115K and I first noticed this just before storing it last
November. Initially
I was able to reset the thing by stopping the engine and
starting it again
but it now remains ON.
I assume this is can be a common problem after
115K so I guess someone who
may have experienced this could point me in the
right direction.
Pierre
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#823
***************************************