Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, April 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
822
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:41:00 -0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP: 1994 3000gt SL wants to die at low rpm when hot
Actually, I
didn't know where to begin so I'll start with the fuel pressure check
(I
haven't checked the pump yet, I will start with the pump) and clean the idle
air
thingy, I just replaced the plugs but heaven knows it could be a head
gasket
although I would think it would run rough with that, maybe it is the
mass air
sensor. Thanks for all of the pointers, i'll keep you
all posted. I really
appreciate the help as I didn't want/have the way
to/bucks to take it to the
dealer.
Bob
Yoss wrote:
> On
Tue, Apr 23, 2002, RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> I only got one response on this, I guess it could be anything fuel
>
> related? Can anyone offer me any suggestions?
>
>
Did you get a chance to run a fuel pressure check?
>
>
*******************************************************************************
>
Q: "Ah, Doctor Crusher, I see Starfleet has shipped you back into
exile."
> --Q, "Deja Q", Stardate 43
>
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:43:13
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: So
they're gonna total my VR-4....
Erik,
one thing to keep in mind,
if you do decide to fix up this car, is the fact
that it will never be worth
anything remotely close to 21K due to the
salvage title. Could be an
issue should you ever want to sell the car.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Gross, Erik
Sent: Wednesday,
April 24, 2002 3:56 PM
To: 'Team 3S list'; Nws3 (E-mail)
Subject: RE:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Thanks for all the
responses, guys - I'm heavily leaning toward keeping the
car.
> Why
did they call it a "total loss" if there is only
> front end damage on the
fenders, hood, and bumper,
> as well as some light rear damage and a bent
wheel?
> That doesn't sound like a total loss to me??
Is
> the frame bent? Is the engine still working?
> There must
be more damage than just the visible
> exterior stuff??
It's a
total loss due to the amount of damage to the car, not because
anything is
irreparably damaged. The car still drives and the engine runs -
it was
still running after the accident. No coolant or engine oil
leaks.
There's a little frame sway on the front rails (couple inches), but
that
shouldn't be a big deal on a unibody car. Estimate is about $400
for the
unibody machine (if I take the bumper off myself) to return the car
to
pre-accident condition structurally. Then there's the upper and
lower
radiator supports that have to be cut out and new ones welded in.
Keep in
mind that parts on these things are EXPENSIVE!
Examples:
Active Aero dam and motor: $1300; Intercooler: $600; Airbags,
Sensors, SRS
Computer: $3200; Wheel: $600; Hood $1100; Fenders $1400; Front
Bumper $1100;
Radiator $600; Windshield $800; etc. etc. etc. Note these
costs
are including tax, labor, and painting - as the repair
estimate
includes.
Unless I can see a huge disadvantage to doing so, I
think I'll keep the car.
So far the only downsides I can see are:
might lose $1000-$2000 if I can't
find anyone who wants the parts (seems like
a low risk); will be a big time
sink if I decide to repair it myself or part
it out, takes up space in my
garage so my friends can't change their
oil.
Upsides include: I will have a parts car; I might be able to
fix it myself
for a lot less; I could make a few bucks on the parts if it
works out right;
I can take ALL my gofast parts off the car if I part it out
(I'd just take
the convenient things off if I ditch it to the insurance co.);
and I have
something that I get to take apart (remember, I'm an engineer
8)
I'll have to talk with the foreman at the body shop about what exactly
is
needed to repair the car before I decide whether it becomes parts for me
and
you or if it gets to be a car again.
I'll keep y'all
posted...
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:30:25
-0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how to silence the door buzzer
Good evening everyone.
This is
a how-to for those who wanted to quiet their door buzzer. Response
from my
first post was very helpful, (thanks to all!!) but I thought I would
say
exactly how it goes since some of the responses were from
recollection.
needed tools: ignition key, phillips screwdriver
1. Pop off
the trim that's aorund the radio. I used the ignition key because
it slipped
in the space and the bumps held the trim so I could pull it out.
Be nice and
let it pop-out because it is only thin plastic.
2. Unscrew the radio head
unit with a phillips driver. Don't drop the
screws! Set them aside.
3.
Pull the head unit out and let it sit to the side. There are wires and
whatnot connected to the back, so be nice.
4. Look for a blue connector
in the upper-right of the space behind the
radio. It will be situatied
vertically. The buzzer itself is a little black
unit with a round, slotted
aperture. If in doubt, put your key in a find the
sound.
5. Pull the
connector apart. It has a tab on the lower half to push on so it
unlatches.
Unlatch it and let it hang.
6. Reinstall the radio and trim.
7. Enjoy
being able to open the door for whatever without the angry noise.
Have
fun!
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:50:00
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
please help, something happened or (nothing happened)
the weridest thing happened today, i had put my car into 3rd and put the
gas
pedal to the floor.
once i did that nothing happened, the rpms didnt go up,
they just stayed at
2000. then i let of the gas and hit it again and it
worked. what the hell
could cause that to happen? That acully
was the second time it happened to
me, the other time was at a light and the
gas pedal went to the floor but the
rpms went really really slow.
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT NA dohc
venom 400
msd 8.5mm
wires
denso irdium plugs
borla cat-back
K&N
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:24:22
-0700
From: "Edgar Francisco" <
francisco_edgar@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: please help, something happened or (nothing happened)
I once
had a similar but not such a major problem as yours. The dealership
replaced
the trottle sensor. At least that was what I was told.
edgar
91 white
VR-4
no mods
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 00:36:50
-0400
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Pocket
Logger help diagnosing stuffs.
hey all, I have a prob im hoping someone
can help me with. I have a stumble
that occurs at around 5000 rpm in 1st,
2nd, and 3rd (havent gone that high
in 4th). I just purchased the
pocketlogger to watch and here is what happens
on 2 seperate runs of light
acceleration till around 2krpm then wot till
bog/backfire whatever it
is.
RPM Knock Timing
1st gear
3000 0 34
4000 0 23
4500 0
20
5000 0 24
5062 6 23
5593 (peaked) 6 24
2nd gear
3437 0
34
4031 0 18
4500 0 21
5031 12 21
5500 (peaked) 11 23
the
mods are below, i boosted to 1.05 bar on the avc-r which is approx
15psi.
there was NO overboost there, both avcr and gauge showed max at
15psi. i have
a new fuel filter (2k ago) new plugs (2k ago but w/stock gap
was this bad?)
and wires also (2k ago) is this possibly fuel cut? I dont
really know what im
looking for in the injector pulse width to tell if im
maxing out, or if
possibly im not getting enough fuel in. it seems that my
o2 sensor is maxing
at around .94 volts and the Injectors maxed out at
20.769.
does anyone
see anything obvious here (please say yes) Im looking forward to
learning all
about logging/tuning this summer, but this stumble is really
tickin me off.
thanks in advance!!
Ron
1992 RT/TT
Apexi AVC-R (1.05
Bar)
Gutted Rear Precat
TurboXS H-RFL BOV
DN Performance
Y-Pipe
Stillen DownPipe
RPS Max Series Clutch
Fidanza Aluminum
Flywheel
8mm Wires
Autometer Boost Gauge on A-pillar
K&N
FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was free ;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:19:41
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: fuel
tanks
are there any baffles in our fuel tanks to stabilize fuel
pickup.
>From looking at the tank externally it doesn't appear there is
any sort of sump to prevent fuel pickup problems --- how about
internally
???
Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 01:25:03
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: fuel tanks
Don't believe so, Jim. Just a big bunch of
open-celled foam like most
tanks have I imagine. I have been bit by
this more than once on a road
course. Everything looks good on the
front stretch as you pass, what
can be compared to highway driving, as the
"last chance gas station."
Your tank shows between 1/8 and 1/4 full but as
SOON as you hit that
first left-hander ... instant fuel shortage. Your
momentum carries you
through until you straighten up (still wide open
throttle) and WHAM! You
suddenly shoot away like a rocket. Then the lap
takes forever to
complete where you can get to the pits for more go
juice.
So if there were baffles it would not act like this. It is
just fuel
sloshing around in there as you can hear this when it is partially
full
and you take a spirited drive down a curvy road.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 01:20
are there any
baffles in our fuel tanks to stabilize fuel pickup.
>From looking at the
tank externally it doesn't appear there is
any sort of sump to prevent fuel
pickup problems --- how about
internally ???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:24:19
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: fuel
pump resistor
Does anybody know when the dropping resistor is enabled ---
I
assume it's rpm based but I can't find when the relay is activated
and
the resistor is
bypassed.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 00:13:59
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Question
Roger and everyone else have me scared to death
about overboosting, burning pistons, and whatnot. I have been convinced that
exceeding 1 bar or 14 psi is the kiss of death.
However, if our stock
turbos can't hold more than 10-12 psi to redline, what's the fuss? No matter
where I set the DSBC, it only peaks at 15-17 psi for a brief moment, then
settles in at 10-12 psi. The only advantage of the DSBC, then, is that it keeps
the boost above 10 psi longer than the stock boost controller did.
Am I
missing something? Do I have anything to worry about with stock
turbos?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR with DSBC, BOV, Supra fuel pump,
Alamos, Stillen, K&N
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 23:40:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost Question
> However, if our stock turbos
can't hold more than 10-12 psi to redline, what's the fuss? No matter where I
set the DSBC, it only peaks at 15-17 psi for a brief moment, then settles in at
10-12 psi. The only advantage of the DSBC, then, is that it keeps the boost
above 10 psi longer than the stock boost controller did.
- ---
How does a
brief moment of "significant" detonation make you feel?
> Am I missing
something? Do I have anything to worry about with stock turbos?
- ---
You
have lots with this current train of thought to worry about.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 02:41:26
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost Question
Yes, there are things to worry about even with
stock turbos. If you set up
the boost too high you can blow up your engine
if you stay in the mid-PRM
range for a prolonged period of time. I do not
know how long that has to be
but I do not want to find it out on my own car.
It is never good to have
excessive knock, if not for durability reasons,
then at least because you
lose power.
A good boost controller will
keep the waste gates closed and the boost
maximized at all times except when
the boost approaches the set point. Your
DSBC will let you maximize the RPM
range where you can run at 14-15 psi and
it will make sure that your waste
gates are closed when you approach the
redline and your turbos are maxing
out.
Philip
At 01:13 4/25/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>Roger and everyone else have me scared to death about
overboosting,
>burning pistons, and whatnot. I have been convinced that
exceeding 1 bar
>or 14 psi is the kiss of death.
>However, if our
stock turbos can't hold more than 10-12 psi to redline,
>what's the fuss?
No matter where I set the DSBC, it only peaks at 15-17
>psi for a brief
moment, then settles in at 10-12 psi. The only advantage
>of the DSBC,
then, is that it keeps the boost above 10 psi longer than the
>stock
boost controller did.
>
>Am I missing something? Do I have anything
to worry about with stock turbos?
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>94 VR
with DSBC, BOV, Supra fuel pump, Alamos, Stillen, K&N
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 07:33:04
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pocket Logger help diagnosing stuffs.
ROn it sounds like
spark blowout especially since the way you are describing
the symptom.
Sorry man but you are gonna have to pull all your plugs and
gap htem down to
.034
- -----Original Message-----
From: Infernalist
[mailto:baali@wwnet.net]
Sent: Thu 4/25/2002 12:36 AM
To: Team3s
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Pocket Logger help diagnosing stuffs.
hey all, I
have a prob im hoping someone can help me with. I have a stumble
that occurs
at around 5000 rpm in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd (havent gone that high
in 4th). I
just purchased the pocketlogger to watch and here is what happens
on 2
seperate runs of light acceleration till around 2krpm then wot till
bog/backfire whatever it is.
RPM
Knock Timing
1st
gear
3000
0
34
4000
0
23
4500
0
20
5000
0
24
5062
6
23
5593 (peaked)
6
24
2nd gear
3437
0
34
4031
0
18
4500
0
21
5031
12
21
5500 (peaked)
11
23
the mods are below, i boosted to 1.05 bar on the avc-r which is
approx
15psi. there was NO overboost there, both avcr and gauge showed max
at
15psi. i have a new fuel filter (2k ago) new plugs (2k ago but w/stock
gap
was this bad?) and wires also (2k ago) is this possibly fuel cut? I dont
really know what im looking for in the injector pulse width to tell if im
maxing out, or if possibly im not getting enough fuel in. it seems that my
o2 sensor is maxing at around .94 volts and the Injectors maxed out at
20.769.
does anyone see anything obvious here (please say yes) Im
looking forward to
learning all about logging/tuning this summer, but
this stumble is really
tickin me off. thanks in advance!!
Ron
1992 RT/TT
Apexi AVC-R (1.05 Bar)
Gutted Rear Precat
TurboXS
H-RFL BOV
DN Performance Y-Pipe
Stillen DownPipe
RPS Max Series
Clutch
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
8mm Wires
Autometer Boost Gauge on
A-pillar
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was free ;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:31:59
-0400
From: Jay Stump <
jstump@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks
Jim ,
On the turbo models the is apparently baffles,
I found this out when I
bought my 91 and experienced the fuel pump
sucking air on right hand
corners at 1/4 of a tank of fuel or less. After 4
trips to the dealer
and a Maryland lemon law suit being filed the engineer
from mitsu said
that I had a regular tank in a turbo model. They replaced the
tank and
no more problems
fastmax wrote:
> are there any
baffles in our fuel tanks to stabilize fuel pickup.
> >From looking at
the tank externally it doesn't appear there is
> any sort of sump to
prevent fuel pickup problems --- how about
> internally
???
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:07:22
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel pump resistor
I can't say exactly, but it looked to me
to be switched similar to the FPR,
that is, around "0" vacuum. How I
monitored FP voltage is explained on my web
page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpvoltage.htmAn
alternate and easier method to find out what you want to know is to connect
the pos lead of your VOM to the FP check connection near the battery and the
VOM neg lead to a ground inside the car. Drive around and observe the
voltage
changes. This also will give you some indication of actual voltage
supplied to
the pump. I should not even have to mention the need to protect
the positive
leads/wires/connections from grounded out.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: fuel pump
resistor
Does anybody know when the dropping resistor is enabled --- I
assume it's rpm based but I can't find when the relay is activated
and
the resistor is
bypassed.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 07:58:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: tirerack.com question
OK I AM TOO STUPID TO LIVE!
I'm
looking for 17 inch wheels for my 93 vr4. I go to
tirerack.com and
enter the year, make and model. For
tires, it shows me 245/45/17 -
perfect, then I click
wheels, it only shows me 4, and they are
all
18inchers.
So for those smarter than me, how do I get a list
of
17inchers for a 93 vr4 to appear?
thanks
much,
Glenn
'93 vr4 with 17 inch wheels that have 90% of chrome
remaining.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:11:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tirerack.com question
Glenn,
Choose the SL or
Base model and you will see three options for
wheels. You can also try
asking Cody here on the list as he works at
Discount Tire and might have an
idea for wheels.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: glenn amy
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
10:58
I'm looking for 17 inch wheels for my 93 vr4. I go
to
tirerack.com and enter the year, make and model. For
tires, it
shows me 245/45/17 - perfect, then I click
wheels, it only shows me 4, and
they are all
18inchers.
So for those smarter than me, how do I get a
list of
17inchers for a 93 vr4 to appear?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:14:39
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: fuel tanks
> Don't believe so, Jim. Just a big bunch of
open-celled foam like most
> tanks have I imagine.
Most tanks don't
have foam in them, just racing fuel cells.
> So if there were baffles
it would not act like this. It is just fuel
> sloshing around in
there as you can hear this when it is partially full
> and you take a
spirited drive down a curvy road.
As usual, Jeff has the answer on his
website...
"The fuel tank has the following features:
Baffle
plates are placed inside the fuel tank to prevent abnormal noise due
to fuel
movement.
There is a reserve cup inside the fuel tank for smooth supply
of fuel even
when there is little fuel remaining."
http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_14-28.gifThere's
a cup there, but it is fairly small. At WOT the pump can flow quite
a
bit of fuel in a short time, and the fuel still sloshes inside the cup
away
from the pump pickup, so it isn't enough for racing purposes where you
could
be hard in a corner for a significant period of time. I've run into
the
same problem autocrossing, so I race with more than 1/2 a tank of fuel
to
prevent that problem (running lean at WOT if the fuel sloshes away is not
a
good idea).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:15:54
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tirerack.com question
>I'm looking for 17 inch wheels for
my 93 vr4. I go to
>tirerack.com and enter the year, make and
model. For
>tires, it shows me 245/45/17 - perfect, then I
click
>wheels, it only shows me 4, and they are
all
>18inchers.
I guess that's all they have in stock.
Rich/slow
old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:25:19
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: fuel tanks
Well I've seen pix of a fuel tank so it must not have
been a 3/S one.
It had not foam but just real open foam-looking stuff so that
it was not
just some large tank. Maybe that is what the baffles look
like. Thanks
though.
And as for running with more than 1/2 a
tank ... that is fine for
Autocross when you don't use more than 1/8 a tank
all day in three runs.
On the track when you are running at 6 mpg for 4
sessions of 20 minutes
(about 20 miles each) that is 80 miles a day so 20
gallons at 6 mpg only
lasts 120 miles so you get down to where hard turns and
carousels run
the pump dry. That is assuming you get gas and use less
than 0.5
gallons getting to the track and that you don't want to pay $5.00
for
gas at the track.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
11:15
Most tanks don't have foam in them, just racing fuel
cells.
As usual, Jeff has the answer on his website...
"The fuel
tank has the following features:
Baffle plates are placed inside the fuel
tank to prevent abnormal noise
due
to fuel movement.
There is a
reserve cup inside the fuel tank for smooth supply of fuel
even
when there
is little fuel remaining."
http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_14-28.gifThere's
a cup there, but it is fairly small. At WOT the pump can
flow
quite
a bit of fuel in a short time, and the fuel still sloshes
inside the cup
away from the pump pickup, so it isn't enough for racing
purposes where
you
could be hard in a corner for a significant period of
time. I've run
into
the same problem autocrossing, so I race with
more than 1/2 a tank of
fuel
to prevent that problem (running lean at WOT
if the fuel sloshes away is
not
a good idea).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:26:58
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks
>There's a cup there, but it is fairly
small. At WOT the pump can flow quite
>a bit of fuel in a short
time, and the fuel still sloshes inside the cup
>away from the pump
pickup, so it isn't enough for racing purposes where you
>could be hard in
a corner for a significant period of time. I've run into
>the same
problem autocrossing, so I race with more than 1/2 a tank of fuel
>to
prevent that problem (running lean at WOT if the fuel sloshes away is
not
>a good idea).
>
I've experienced fuel starvation, but only
when the car has been really leaned over on its doorhandles, such as in a RH
180-deg carousel, where it's under constant g forces for a few seconds. When I
come out of it and nail the throttle, THEN I get fuel starvation. Guess all the
fuel is huddled back in a corner of the tank, then stays there under
acceleration.
Rich/slow old poop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:33:35
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Ok so while we are on this
topic, how hard + expensive would it be to
install a baffle set up to prevent
fuel starvation from occurring. Since
our tanks do not appear to be
made of metal, welding in some aluminum does
not seem to be an
option.
Russ F
93 VR-4 She's down but not out
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:27
AM
> To: Matt Jannusch;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel tanks
>
>
> I've experienced fuel
starvation, but only when the car has been really
> leaned over on its
doorhandles, such as in a RH 180-deg carousel, where
> it's under constant
g forces for a few seconds. When I come out of it and
> nail the throttle,
THEN I get fuel starvation. Guess all the fuel is
> huddled back in a
corner of the tank, then stays there under acceleration.
>
>
> Rich/slow old poop.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 08:48:16
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tirerack.com question
Rich - I too have a 93 AWD and raised the
same issue with Tire Rack. They
told me they don't have anything in the 17
size. I found numberous other
sources on the net using Google but I did not
keep them. I think one source
may have been tires.com but I don't remember
anymore.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"glenn amy" <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 25, 2002 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: tirerack.com
question
> >I'm looking for 17 inch wheels for my 93 vr4. I
go to
> >tirerack.com and enter the year, make and model.
For
> >tires, it shows me 245/45/17 - perfect, then I click
>
>wheels, it only shows me 4, and they are all
>
>18inchers.
>
> I guess that's all they have in stock.
>
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:55:07
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
tirerack.com question
try
www.wheeloptions.comthey have a
large selection with all the fitment info.
downside is you have call to
order.
Alex.
> Rich - I too have a 93 AWD and raised the same issue
with Tire Rack. They
> told me they don't have anything in the 17 size. I
found numberous other
> sources on the net using Google but I did not keep
them. I think one source
> may have been tires.com but I don't remember
anymore.
>
> Andy
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: "glenn amy" <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 8:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: tirerack.com
question
>
>
> > >I'm looking for 17 inch wheels for
my 93 vr4. I go to
> > >tirerack.com and enter the year, make
and model. For
> > >tires, it shows me 245/45/17 - perfect,
then I click
> > >wheels, it only shows me 4, and they are
all
> > >18inchers.
> >
> > I guess that's all
they have in stock.
> > Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:59:00
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tirerack.com question
I have a nice set of 17 in. Milli
Miglias, but Tire Rack doesn't carry them any more. I am worried about finding a
replacement if I bend one.
Rich
>Rich - I too have a 93 AWD
and raised the same issue with Tire Rack. They
>told me they don't have
anything in the 17 size.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:10:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
You mean "How much to buy and
install a fuel cell with foam inside it".
Thats the fix.
On Thu,
25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Ok so while we are on this
topic, how hard + expensive would it be to
> install a baffle set up to
prevent fuel starvation from occurring. Since
> our tanks do not
appear to be made of metal, welding in some aluminum does
> not seem to be
an option.
>
> Russ F
> 93 VR-4 She's down but not out
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
11:27 AM
> > To: Matt Jannusch;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel tanks
> >
> >
> > I've
experienced fuel starvation, but only when the car has been really
> >
leaned over on its doorhandles, such as in a RH 180-deg carousel, where
>
> it's under constant g forces for a few seconds. When I come out of it
and
> > nail the throttle, THEN I get fuel starvation. Guess all the
fuel is
> > huddled back in a corner of the tank, then stays there
under acceleration.
> >
> >
> > Rich/slow old
poop.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:09:16
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Ok where would I find a 20
gallon fuel cell that will fit in the stock
location on my car? Since I
am in the middle of basically disassembling the
entire car I may as well take
car of this problem also.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 25,
2002 12:11 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
>
> You mean "How
much to buy and install a fuel cell with foam inside it".
>
> Thats
the fix.
>
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
> > Ok so while we are on this topic, how hard + expensive would it be
to
> > install a baffle set up to prevent fuel starvation from
occurring.
> Since
> > our tanks do not appear to be made of
metal, welding in some aluminum
> does
> > not seem to be an
option.
> >
> > Russ F
> > 93 VR-4 She's down
but not out
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:26:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
I dunno if you'll find
20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel cells.
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.htmlOn
Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Ok where would I find a 20
gallon fuel cell that will fit in the stock
> location on my car?
Since I am in the middle of basically disassembling the
> entire car I may
as well take car of this problem also.
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
12:11 PM
> > To: Furman, Russell
> > Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
> >
> > You
mean "How much to buy and install a fuel cell with foam inside it".
> >
> > Thats the fix.
> >
> > On Thu, 25 Apr 2002,
Furman, Russell wrote:
> >
> > > Ok so while we are on
this topic, how hard + expensive would it be to
> > > install a
baffle set up to prevent fuel starvation from occurring.
> >
Since
> > > our tanks do not appear to be made of metal, welding in
some aluminum
> > does
> > > not seem to be an
option.
> > >
> > > Russ F
> > > 93
VR-4 She's down but not out
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:52:37
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tirerack.com question
I bought 17" Mille Miglia Spider rims from
Tire Rack for my Pirelli Snow Pro
tires in 235/45R17. They work
great.
My OEM chrome rims are bent and scraped from previous owner's
ineptitude but
I do like the feel of the Kumho 245/40R18 that I also bought
from Tire Rack.
Like Rich said, they might simply be out of stock of 17"
at this time.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 4/25/02 8:58 AM,
glenn amy at
glenn_amy@yahoo.com
scribbled:
> OK I AM TOO STUPID TO LIVE!
>
> I'm looking
for 17 inch wheels for my 93 vr4. I go to
> tirerack.com and enter
the year, make and model. For
> tires, it shows me 245/45/17 -
perfect, then I click
> wheels, it only shows me 4, and they are
all
> 18inchers.
>
> So for those smarter than me, how do I
get a list of
> 17inchers for a 93 vr4 to appear?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:08:22
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation = fuel cell
Could you use 2 ten
gallon ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 10:27
AM
To: Furman, Russell
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
I dunno if you'll find
20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel cells.
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.htmlOn
Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Ok where would I find a 20
gallon fuel cell that will fit in the stock
> location on my car?
Since I am in the middle of basically disassembling
the
> entire car I
may as well take car of this problem also.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:18:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation = fuel cell
Well..I stand
horribly corrected on sizing..just that I hadnt sold a large
one
before. Check the URL I sent.
The sizes/dimentions are available
directly there.
On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Floyd, Jim wrote:
> Could
you use 2 ten gallon ?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April
25, 2002 10:27 AM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
>
>
> I
dunno if you'll find 20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel cells.
>
>
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.html>
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
> > Ok
where would I find a 20 gallon fuel cell that will fit in the stock
> >
location on my car? Since I am in the middle of basically
disassembling
> the
> > entire car I may as well take car of this
problem also.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:16:30
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks + fuel starvation
That's the approach I was just looking at
--- Greggs racing at Sears
Point builds and sells a Fuelsafe cell with some
internal mods to the
pickup and sump using an aeromotive pump in the tank.
They deal
with Mustangs only at this point but the designer seemed
willing
to share some ideas. I'm trying to gather some info on our setup
so
I can talk to him again. The fuelsafe setup is probably more than I
can afford at this time but mods to my tank are may be in order.
I'm
going to look at baffles and perhaps stuffing some foam blocks
into the tank.
That's one of the reasons I'm interested in the internals
of the stock tank,
I need to know the starting point --- I guess I'll have
to open it up and
look.
One of the points brought up by several parties is the fact the
big
horse power pumps [ singles and duals ] tend to move a lot of fuel
around and continually heat and aerate the fuel. Heat is generated by
the
pumps and in the engine compartment --- large volumes of heated
fuel are
pumped back to the tank under low load conditions. Aeromotive
sells an RPM
based controller to drop the voltage to the pump to 8.5V.
I've been think
of designing a dual in-tank setup with dual check valves
where one pump is
controlled by the stock setup and the second pump
is activated by a boost
switch. Or dual pumps controlled by an aeromotive
controller with separate
pickups on different sides of the tank --- or
????
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
I dunno if you'll find 20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel cells.
>
>
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.html>
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
> > Ok
where would I find a 20 gallon fuel cell that will fit in the stock
> >
location on my car? Since I am in the middle of basically disassembling
the
> > entire car I may as well take car of this problem also.
>
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, April
25, 2002 12:11 PM
> > > To: Furman, Russell
> > > Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
> > >
> > > You mean "How much to buy and install a fuel cell with foam
inside it".
> > >
> > > Thats the fix.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:30:28
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Big red pads
Hello,
Does anybody know what year and model
Porsche Brad's brake kit is for?
I need to get new brake pads. The ones that
are on there now have blackened
my wheels with dust in a matter of 100
miles. I'm thinking the factory
Porsche pads will not produce as much
dust.
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:45:07
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Jim,
If you do design it,
please use quiet pumps for people that still
have to use their cars on the
street.
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:17 AM
To: Geoff
Mohler; Furman, Russell
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
That's the approach I was just
looking at --- Greggs racing at Sears
Point builds and sells a Fuelsafe cell
with some internal mods to the
pickup and sump using an aeromotive pump in
the tank. They deal
with Mustangs only at this point but the designer seemed
willing
to share some ideas. I'm trying to gather some info on our setup
so
I can talk to him again. The fuelsafe setup is probably more than I
can afford at this time but mods to my tank are may be in order.
I'm
going to look at baffles and perhaps stuffing some foam blocks
into the tank.
That's one of the reasons I'm interested in the internals
of the stock tank,
I need to know the starting point --- I guess I'll have
to open it up and
look.
One of the points brought up by several parties is the fact the
big
horse power pumps [ singles and duals ] tend to move a lot of fuel
around and continually heat and aerate the fuel. Heat is generated by
the
pumps and in the engine compartment --- large volumes of heated
fuel are
pumped back to the tank under low load conditions. Aeromotive
sells an RPM
based controller to drop the voltage to the pump to 8.5V.
I've been think
of designing a dual in-tank setup with dual check valves
where one pump is
controlled by the stock setup and the second pump
is activated by a boost
switch. Or dual pumps controlled by an aeromotive
controller with separate
pickups on different sides of the tank --- or
????
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
I dunno if you'll find 20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel cells.
>
>
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.html>
> On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
> > Ok
where would I find a 20 gallon fuel cell that will fit in the stock
> >
location on my car? Since I am in the middle of basically
disassembling
the
> > entire car I may as well take car of this
problem also.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > >
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 12:11 PM
> > > To: Furman,
Russell
> > > Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
> > >
> > > You mean "How much to buy and install a fuel cell with foam
inside
it".
> > >
> > > Thats the
fix.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:48:41
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
The are for a '96 Twin Turbo 911 model 993 or
996.
The Porsche internal number for the pads is 901771 or
99335194900.
Chris at Performance Products has them 800-423-3173
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent:
Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:30 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Big red pads
Hello,
Does anybody know what year and model
Porsche Brad's brake kit is for?
I need to get new brake pads. The ones that
are on there now have blackened
my wheels with dust in a matter of 100
miles. I'm thinking the factory
Porsche pads will not produce as much
dust.
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:49:15
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
While we have this idea in the
air, why not use dual walboro 255lph pumps?
As a pair they should be good for
1000 crank HP, also maybe set them up
similar to stock with a resistor so
they run only like 9-10 volts at idle
but at positive manifold pressure jump
to like 12-14. That will keep the
street guys/gals happy and give us
folks who don't care the power out put we
are looking for.
Russ
F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 1:45
PM
> To: 'fastmax'; Geoff Mohler; Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
>
> Jim,
>
> If you do design it, please use quiet pumps for people that
still
> have to use their cars on the street.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 11:17 AM
>
To: Geoff Mohler; Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
>
> That's the
approach I was just looking at --- Greggs racing at Sears
> Point builds
and sells a Fuelsafe cell with some internal mods to the
> pickup and sump
using an aeromotive pump in the tank. They deal
> with Mustangs only at
this point but the designer seemed willing
> to share some ideas. I'm
trying to gather some info on our setup so
> I can talk to him again. The
fuelsafe setup is probably more than I
> can afford at this time but mods
to my tank are may be in order.
>
> I'm going to look at baffles
and perhaps stuffing some foam blocks
> into the tank. That's one of the
reasons I'm interested in the internals
> of the stock tank, I need to
know the starting point --- I guess I'll have
> to open it up and
look.
>
> One of the points brought up by several parties is the
fact the big
> horse power pumps [ singles and duals ] tend to move a lot
of fuel
> around and continually heat and aerate the fuel. Heat is
generated by
> the pumps and in the engine compartment --- large volumes
of heated
> fuel are pumped back to the tank under low load conditions.
Aeromotive
> sells an RPM based controller to drop the voltage to the pump
to 8.5V.
>
> I've been think of designing a dual in-tank setup with
dual check valves
> where one pump is controlled by the stock setup and
the second pump
> is activated by a boost switch. Or dual pumps controlled
by an aeromotive
> controller with separate pickups on different sides of
the tank --- or
> ????
>
> Jim Berry
>
================================================
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> > I dunno if you'll find 20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel
cells.
> >
> >
http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.html>
>
> > On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> >
> > > Ok where would I find a 20 gallon fuel cell that will fit in
the stock
> > > location on my car? Since I am in the middle
of basically
> disassembling
> the
> > > entire car I
may as well take car of this problem also.
> > >
> > >
> -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April
25, 2002 12:11 PM
> > > > To: Furman, Russell
> > >
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
> > >
>
> > > > You mean "How much to buy and install a fuel cell
with foam inside
> it".
> > > >
> > > >
Thats the fix.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:25:34
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Some words of advice: Use extreme
caution about what type of foam you
use. Polystyrene and gasoline =
NAPALM!!!
The foam must be completely stable in gasoline which is an
agressive
solvent. Therefore, do some reasearch as to which type to
use and make
sure that the manufacturer is of high quality.
Though I
do "Love the smell of napalm in the morning," when it's burning
my racing
suit, the smell kinda isn't the same...
fastmax wrote:
> That's
the approach I was just looking at --- Greggs racing at Sears
> Point
builds and sells a Fuelsafe cell with some internal mods to the
> pickup
and sump using an aeromotive pump in the tank. They deal
> with Mustangs
only at this point but the designer seemed willing
> to share some ideas.
I'm trying to gather some info on our setup so
> I can talk to him again.
The fuelsafe setup is probably more than I
> can afford at this time but
mods to my tank are may be in order.
>
> I'm going to look at
baffles and perhaps stuffing some foam blocks
> into the tank. That's one
of the reasons I'm interested in the internals
> of the stock tank, I need
to know the starting point --- I guess I'll have
> to open it up and
look.
>
> One of the points brought up by several parties is the
fact the big
> horse power pumps [ singles and duals ] tend to move a lot
of fuel
> around and continually heat and aerate the fuel. Heat is
generated by
> the pumps and in the engine compartment --- large volumes
of heated
> fuel are pumped back to the tank under low load conditions.
Aeromotive
> sells an RPM based controller to drop the voltage to the pump
to 8.5V.
>
> I've been think of designing a dual in-tank setup with
dual check valves
> where one pump is controlled by the stock setup and
the second pump
> is activated by a boost switch. Or dual pumps controlled
by an aeromotive
> controller with separate pickups on different sides of
the tank --- or ????
>
> Jim Berry
>
================================================
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
>>I dunno if you'll find 20gallons, but I sell Fuel Safe fuel
cells.
>>
>>http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.html
>>
>>On
Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell
wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Ok where would I find a 20 gallon
fuel cell that will fit in the stock
>>>location on my car?
Since I am in the middle of basically disassembling the
>>>entire
car I may as well take car of this problem
also.
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original
Message-----
>>>>From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
>>>>Sent: Thursday, April 25,
2002 12:11 PM
>>>>To: Furman, Russell
>>>>Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>>>Subject:
RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel
starvation
>>>>
>>>>You mean "How much to buy and
install a fuel cell with foam inside
it".
>>>>
>>>>Thats the
fix.
>>>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 11:28:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
I promise not to say it
again..but dont reengineer what you can buy today.
Fuel cells are already
there, already have the approvals you'll need to
get ON a race track..and its
your butt if welding your tank together isnt
as good as it was before you cut
it opn in a wreck.
Just one of those things..
On Thu, 25 Apr 2002,
Damon Rachell wrote:
> Some words of advice: Use extreme caution
about what type of foam you
> use. Polystyrene and gasoline =
NAPALM!!!
>
> The foam must be completely stable in gasoline which
is an agressive
> solvent. Therefore, do some reasearch as to which
type to use and make
> sure that the manufacturer is of high
quality.
>
> Though I do "Love the smell of napalm in the morning,"
when it's burning
> my racing suit, the smell kinda isn't the
same...
>
>
> fastmax wrote:
>
> > That's
the approach I was just looking at --- Greggs racing at Sears
> > Point
builds and sells a Fuelsafe cell with some internal mods to the
> >
pickup and sump using an aeromotive pump in the tank. They deal
> >
with Mustangs only at this point but the designer seemed willing
> > to
share some ideas. I'm trying to gather some info on our setup so
> > I
can talk to him again. The fuelsafe setup is probably more than I
> >
can afford at this time but mods to my tank are may be in order.
> >
> > I'm going to look at baffles and perhaps stuffing some foam
blocks
> > into the tank. That's one of the reasons I'm interested in
the internals
> > of the stock tank, I need to know the starting point
--- I guess I'll have
> > to open it up and look.
> >
>
> One of the points brought up by several parties is the fact the big
>
> horse power pumps [ singles and duals ] tend to move a lot of fuel
>
> around and continually heat and aerate the fuel. Heat is generated
by
> > the pumps and in the engine compartment --- large volumes of
heated
> > fuel are pumped back to the tank under low load conditions.
Aeromotive
> > sells an RPM based controller to drop the voltage to the
pump to 8.5V.
> >
> > I've been think of designing a dual
in-tank setup with dual check valves
> > where one pump is controlled
by the stock setup and the second pump
> > is activated by a boost
switch. Or dual pumps controlled by an aeromotive
> > controller with
separate pickups on different sides of the tank --- or ????
> >
> > Jim Berry
>
> ================================================
> >
> >
----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> >
> >>I dunno if you'll find 20gallons, but I sell
Fuel Safe fuel cells.
> >>
>
>>http://secure.fuelsafe.net/cgi-bin/fuelsafe/catalog.html
>
>>
> >>On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
>>
> >>
> >>>Ok where would I find a 20 gallon
fuel cell that will fit in the stock
> >>>location on my
car? Since I am in the middle of basically disassembling the
>
>>>entire car I may as well take car of this problem also.
>
>>>
> >>>
> >>>>-----Original
Message-----
> >>>>From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> >>>>Sent: Thursday, April
25, 2002 12:11 PM
> >>>>To: Furman, Russell
>
>>>>Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>>>>Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
>
>>>>
> >>>>You mean "How much to buy and install a
fuel cell with foam inside it".
> >>>>
>
>>>>Thats the fix.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:02:53
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
My street Porsche pads still dust. You might
want to also consider
Porterfield R4 pads that are very good for street
driving and I hear
dust little. I have not personally tried them but
after a few hundred
miles of highway use I usually get enough dust where
swiping the rim
with your finger cleans that spot.
I also, in my free
time, apply Mother's chrome polish which helps the
brake dust wash away or
wipe away much easier. This is great at the
track. Apply them
before mounting. Run all weekend. Remove them from
the car and
one quick wipe takes off all the dust.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big
Reds
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne
Sent: Thursday, April
25, 2002 13:30
Does anybody know what year and model Porsche Brad's
brake kit is for?
I need to get new brake pads. The ones that are on there
now have
blackened
my wheels with dust in a matter of 100 miles. I'm
thinking the factory
Porsche pads will not produce as much
dust.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:11:33
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big red pads
You don't mean R4 you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race
bread pad which
dusts like crazy while the R4S dusts significantly
less. Less initial
bite on the R4 as well which equates to easier
daily driving.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> My street Porsche pads
still dust. You might want to also consider
> Porterfield R4 pads
that are very good for street driving and I hear
> dust little. I
have not personally tried them but after a few hundred
> miles of highway
use I usually get enough dust where swiping the rim
> with your finger
cleans that spot.
>
> I also, in my free time, apply Mother's
chrome polish which helps the
> brake dust wash away or wipe away much
easier. This is great at the
> track. Apply them before
mounting. Run all weekend. Remove them from
> the car and one
quick wipe takes off all the dust.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
with Big Reds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Wayne
> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 13:30
>
> Does
anybody know what year and model Porsche Brad's brake kit is for?
> I need
to get new brake pads. The ones that are on there now have
> blackened
> my wheels with dust in a matter of 100 miles. I'm thinking the factory
> Porsche pads will not produce as much dust.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:12:14
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big red pads
At 12:11 PM 4/25/02 -0700, Damon Rachell
wrote:
>You don't mean R4 you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race bread
pad which
>dusts like crazy while the R4S dusts significantly less.
Less initial
>bite on the R4 as well which equates to easier daily
driving.
>
The R4 and R4S pads also squeal like a stuck pig when cold.
Kinda embarassing on the street.
Stock Porsche pads is probably your best
choice for the street.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:16:12
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
Yes, R4S. My bad. Amazing what one
letter changes the meaning of
sometimes. Sorry.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
15:12
You don't mean R4 you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race
bread pad which
dusts like crazy while the R4S dusts significantly
less. Less initial
bite on the R4 as well which equates to easier
daily driving.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> My street Porsche pads
still dust. You might want to also consider
> Porterfield R4 pads
that are very good for street driving and I hear
> dust
little.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:20:49
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
Thanks everyone.
I think i'm going to try the
Ferodo pads sold by "performance products"
If that doesn't work i'll try the
porterfields or the stock porsche.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:23:53
-0700
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Battery
Hey There:
I need to replace the battery in my 97
(it's the original one), and I'm
just looking for opinions on what to
get. Currently I'm leaning towards
the Optima Redtop. So can
y'all reply with which battery I should go
with, sizes and such? Thank
ya.
Brad
97 VR-4
K&N FPIK, DNP Intercooler Pipes, Blitz
Supersound BOV, 19" Axis wheels
(soon to be sold and replaced), Nitto 555's,
KV85 wires, NGK double
platinum plugs, and (waiting for time to install)
Apex'i AVC-R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:25:03
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Ferodo
I guess i'll try the ferodo brake pads, but that brings my
to another
matter.....Clutch discs.
When i lived in Japan, i tried
several clutches in my Skyline, and the only
one that lasted more than a
couple months was a Ferodo.
Ferodo clutches are not available in the US
to my knowldge, so does anybody
in Europe have access to Ferodo clutches for
VR-4's?
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:54:30
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big red pads
also available in Panther Plus compound from
Jamn Moptorsports or Carbotech!
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 25,
2002 12:49 PM
> To: 'Wayne';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big red pads
>
>
> The are for a '96
Twin Turbo 911 model 993 or 996.
> The Porsche internal number for the
pads is 901771 or 99335194900.
> Chris at Performance Products has them
800-423-3173
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:03:54
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Battery
Optima Red Top. Optima Red Top.
I of course
go to the track so I like the idea of a sealed battery. My
local Pep
Boys just got these in a few months back. They had a stupid
look on
their face a month earlier when I asked who carried them.
Anyway, they have
the slightly smaller version than standard but it
still works fine (runs the
radio for 6 hours while I'm cleaning the car
and the old one would have a
hard time starting the car after a stunt
like that).
It was about $120
or so depending on core charge. No delivery price so
the $95 online
price plus $15 comes out to be about the same price.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 and a red top (continuing my red on black color theme)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
Sent: Thursday, April 25,
2002 15:24
I need to replace the battery in my 97 (it's the
original one), and I'm
just looking for opinions on what to get.
Currently I'm leaning towards
the Optima Redtop. So can y'all reply
with which battery I should go
with, sizes and such? Thank
ya.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:15:52
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: please help, something happened or (nothing happened)
Check the
ECU codes, could be crank angle sensor. Check for shorted or
loose
wiring too.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Edgar
Francisco [mailto:francisco_edgar@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24,
2002 8:24 PM
To:
DonBrando36@aol.com;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: please help, something happened or (nothing
happened)
I
once had a similar but not such a major problem as yours. The
dealership
replaced the trottle sensor. At least that was what I was
told.
edgar
91 white VR-4
no mods
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
DonBrando36@aol.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 24, 2002 7:50 PM
Subject: Team3S: please help, something
happened or (nothing happened)
> the weridest
thing happened today, i had put my car into 3rd and put
the
> gas pedal
to the floor.
> once i did that nothing happened, the rpms didnt go up,
they just stayed
at
> 2000. then i let of the gas and hit it again and
it worked. what the hell
> could cause that to happen? That
acully was the second time it happened
to
> me, the other time was at a
light and the gas pedal went to the floor but
the
> rpms went really
really slow. thanks
>
> brandon
> 93 3000GT NA dohc
>
venom 400
> msd 8.5mm wires
> denso irdium plugs
> borla
cat-back
> K&N
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:21:44
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
> The R4 and R4S pads also squeal like a stuck
pig when cold.
> Kinda embarassing on the street.
My R4S pads
didn't squeak on the street, but then again, I had stock
calipers, and brand
new rotors too.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 KIA (not Kia :P ) ... buying it
back
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:52:58
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big red pads
On Thu, Apr 25, 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
>
At 12:11 PM 4/25/02 -0700, Damon Rachell wrote:
> >You don't mean R4
you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race bread pad which dusts
> >like
crazy while the R4S dusts significantly less. Less initial bite on
>
>the R4 as well which equates to easier daily driving.
> >
>
The R4 and R4S pads also squeal like a stuck pig when cold. Kinda
>
embarassing on the street.
I've been using a set of R4S pads on
Porterfield "OEM" rotors since 1998, and
I haven't heard any squeals/squeaks
from them yet. I'm not sure how cold it
needs to get for what Rich
mentions to happen, but out here in PNW it rarely
ever gets colder than
freezing.
The R4S pads definitely generate a _lot_ more brake dust
compared to the stock
pads (which generate virtually no dust.) However,
they are not quite so
bad as R4 pads.
I lost both my stock front
rotors (within 1 day of regular driving) to the R4
pads because I didn't pay
close attention to the seating procedures for these
pads. You may want
to really brake the hell outta the R4 pads to the point of
near-complete fade
and get them seated, if you want to preserve your rotors.
This procedure is
not necessary for the R4S pads.
> Stock Porsche pads is probably your
best choice for the street.
I would recommend the R4S, if you can stand
the brake dust.
> Rich/slow old poop
BTW, my rear stock pads
still have a lot of life in them. Are our cars setup
with a front brake
bias? If so, is it possible to setup a neutral bias? Are
there
any disadvantages to upsetting the stock bias?
-
-sankar
*******************************************************************************
Data:
"Would you choose one life over a thousand?"
Picard: "I refuse to let
arithmetic decide questions like that."
- --Data and Picard, "Justice",
Stardate
41
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:02:14
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
My R4s on 12.75" custom Porterfield squealed ALL of
the time.
They even broke off in big chunks : (
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, April
25, 2002 2:53 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big red pads
On
Thu, Apr 25, 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
>
At 12:11 PM 4/25/02 -0700, Damon Rachell wrote:
> >You don't mean R4
you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race bread pad which
dusts
>
>like crazy while the R4S dusts significantly less. Less initial bite
on
> >the R4 as well which equates to easier daily driving.
>
>
> The R4 and R4S pads also squeal like a stuck pig when cold.
Kinda
> embarassing on the street.
I've been using a set of R4S
pads on Porterfield "OEM" rotors since 1998,
and
I haven't heard any
squeals/squeaks from them yet. I'm not sure how cold it
needs to get
for what Rich mentions to happen, but out here in PNW it rarely
ever gets
colder than freezing.
The R4S pads definitely generate a _lot_
more brake dust compared to the
stock
pads (which generate virtually no
dust.) However, they are not quite so
bad as R4 pads.
I lost
both my stock front rotors (within 1 day of regular driving) to
the
R4
pads because I didn't pay close attention to the seating procedures
for
these
pads. You may want to really brake the hell outta the R4
pads to the point
of
near-complete fade and get them seated, if you want
to preserve your rotors.
This procedure is not necessary for the R4S
pads.
> Stock Porsche pads is probably your best choice for the
street.
I would recommend the R4S, if you can stand the brake
dust.
> Rich/slow old poop
BTW, my rear stock pads still have a
lot of life in them. Are our cars
setup
with a front brake
bias? If so, is it possible to setup a neutral bias?
Are
there any
disadvantages to upsetting the stock bias?
-
-sankar
****************************************************************************
Data:
"Would you choose one life over a thousand?"
Picard: "I refuse to let
arithmetic decide questions like that."
- --Data and Picard, "Justice",
Stardate
41
****************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:06:49
-0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <
Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Battery
Brad...
I've had poor luck with two Odyssey
dry cell batteries up front so I've
recently converted to a trunk mounted
Optima Red Top. Twice the size and
weight of a dry cell, but half the
price. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G
turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split
Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller, Apex EGT & boost
gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers, trunk mounted
Optima Red Top, Magnecore 8.5mm
wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at
.032", ACT 2800 lb pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce
throwout bearing, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen
cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1"
drop
progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots on factory 18"
chromed
wheels)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
[mailto:bradfordjgay@charter.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 12:24
PM
To: Team3S; 3SRacers
Subject: Team3S: Battery
Hey
There:
I need to replace the battery in my 97 (it's the original one),
and I'm
just looking for opinions on what to get. Currently I'm leaning
towards
the Optima Redtop. So can y'all reply with which battery I
should go
with, sizes and such? Thank ya.
Brad
97
VR-4
K&N FPIK, DNP Intercooler Pipes, Blitz Supersound BOV, 19" Axis
wheels
(soon to be sold and replaced), Nitto 555's, KV85 wires, NGK
double
platinum plugs, and (waiting for time to install) Apex'i
AVC-R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 14:12:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big red pads
Jim:
Why didnt you say anything? We
would have gotten in touch with PF to
discover why.
On Thu, 25 Apr
2002, Floyd, Jim wrote:
> My R4s on 12.75" custom Porterfield squealed
ALL of the time.
> They even broke off in big chunks : (
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 2:53 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Big red pads
>
> On Thu, Apr 25, 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
wrote:
> > At 12:11 PM 4/25/02 -0700, Damon Rachell wrote:
> >
>You don't mean R4 you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race bread pad
which
> dusts
> > >like crazy while the R4S dusts
significantly less. Less initial bite on
> > >the R4 as well
which equates to easier daily driving.
> > >
> > The R4 and
R4S pads also squeal like a stuck pig when cold. Kinda
> > embarassing
on the street.
>
> I've been using a set of R4S pads on Porterfield
"OEM" rotors since 1998,
> and
> I haven't heard any squeals/squeaks
from them yet. I'm not sure how cold it
> needs to get for what Rich
mentions to happen, but out here in PNW it rarely
> ever gets colder than
freezing.
>
> The R4S pads definitely generate a _lot_ more
brake dust compared to the
> stock
> pads (which generate virtually
no dust.) However, they are not quite so
> bad as R4 pads.
>
> I lost both my stock front rotors (within 1 day of regular driving) to
the
> R4
> pads because I didn't pay close attention to the seating
procedures for
> these
> pads. You may want to really brake
the hell outta the R4 pads to the point
> of
> near-complete fade
and get them seated, if you want to preserve your rotors.
> This procedure
is not necessary for the R4S pads.
>
> > Stock Porsche pads is
probably your best choice for the street.
>
> I would recommend the
R4S, if you can stand the brake dust.
>
> > Rich/slow old
poop
>
> BTW, my rear stock pads still have a lot of life in
them. Are our cars
> setup
> with a front brake bias? If
so, is it possible to setup a neutral bias?
> Are
> there any
disadvantages to upsetting the stock bias?
>
> -sankar
>
****************************************************************************
>
Data: "Would you choose one life over a thousand?"
> Picard: "I refuse to
let arithmetic decide questions like that."
> --Data and Picard,
"Justice", Stardate 41
>
****************************************************************************
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:16:13
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
Sankar,
It is not advisable to upset the
stock brake bias. It is hard to get to
(it is along the firewall behind
everything) and would probably do more
harm than good.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Yoss
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 16:53
BTW, my rear stock
pads still have a lot of life in them. Are our cars
setup with a front
brake bias? If so, is it possible to setup a neutral
bias? Are
there any disadvantages to upsetting the stock bias?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 21:18:53
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Battery
I have a web page devoted to sealed lead acid (SLA)
batteries such as the
Optima. It explains the advantages and limitations of
SLA batteries.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htmIt
has details for the Hawker Energy batteries, but generally applicable to
all
SLA batteries. I also list the alternatives to the Optima plus the
cheapest
places I found on the web to purchase SLA batteries. The Exide SLA is
much
cheaper yet is comparable to or exceeds the Optima in both design and
performance. The stock battery specs such as capacities and BCI Group Number
are also listed.
Whatever battery you select, be sure to shop
around. I found a very large
difference in retail prices; as much $100 for
some models!
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>;
"3SRacers" <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Thursday, April 25, 2002 1:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Battery
Hey
There:
I need to replace the battery in my 97 (it's the original one), and
I'm
just looking for opinions on what to get. Currently I'm leaning
towards
the Optima Redtop. So can y'all reply with which battery I
should go
with, sizes and such? Thank ya.
Brad
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:34:31
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big red pads
why is it not advisable? If it's properly tuned then
there are only
beneficial outcomes to improved brake bias. and yes,
our cars do favor
increased front bias. Especially with larger pads
and calipers.
If I remember correctly, though, the ABS needs modifying as
well, so a
brake bias adjustment install is not straight
forward.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Sankar,
>
> It
is not advisable to upset the stock brake bias. It is hard to get
to
> (it is along the firewall behind everything) and would probably do
more
> harm than good.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with
Big Reds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Yoss
>
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 16:53
>
> BTW, my rear stock
pads still have a lot of life in them. Are our cars
> setup with a
front brake bias? If so, is it possible to setup a neutral
>
bias? Are there any disadvantages to upsetting the stock
bias?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:01:41
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Accel coils- to MSD or not to MSD
There was talk a while back
that we might be able to run the Accel
ignition coils without using a MSD
unit.
What was decided ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 18:10:26
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Big red pads
> why is it not advisable? If it's properly
tuned then there are only
> beneficial outcomes to improved brake
bias. and yes, our cars do favor
> increased front bias.
Especially with larger pads and calipers.
Yeah, if you upgrade the brakes
it'll be pretty heavily front-biased. I'd
imagine it gets pretty severe
if you upgrade the front brakes significantly
from stock, but I don't have
firsthand experience.
> If I remember correctly, though, the ABS needs
modifying as well, so a
> brake bias adjustment install is not straight
forward.
If you are making a true track car and are really concerned
about brakes
maybe consider getting rid of the ABS completely and using an
adjustable
proportioning valve. Maybe even one of the racing brake
pedal/cylinder
setups like a Tilton setup with the cable-connected adjustable
bias.
The stock proportioning valve is in probably the most difficult
location to
get to (at least with the motor still in the car). Just
plain nasty. I'd
hate to try to just drop in some form of aftermarket
proportioning valve
there. If you have your motor out though, go
nuts!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:56:50
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel tanks + fuel starvation
If you can get me a 22 gal Fuelsafe cell for
$29.99 I'll take you up on it --- last I
looked the cells were in the $1000
range. If money were no object I'd go to
Gregg racing and tell em to design
me one. As it is I'm looking at $1000 to get
fuel to the injectors without
messing with the tank.
If I use foam I'll get the same stuff they stuff
in fuel cells. I'm not sure how I'll
approach the baffles --- I don't like to
weld in the tank either --- maybe some
type of epoxy
?!?!?
Jim Berry
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
I promise not to say it again..but dont reengineer what you can buy
today.
>
> Fuel cells are already there, already have the approvals
you'll need to
> get ON a race track..and its your butt if welding your
tank together isnt
> as good as it was before you cut it opn in a
wreck.
>
> Just one of those things..
>
> On Thu, 25
Apr 2002, Damon Rachell wrote:
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:08:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: fuel tanks + fuel starvation
Your gas tank.
Your
ass.
Racing costs money..go out with a full tank is my freebie racing
solution.
On Thu, 25 Apr 2002, fastmax wrote:
> If you can get
me a 22 gal Fuelsafe cell for $29.99 I'll take you up on it --- last I
>
looked the cells were in the $1000 range. If money were no object I'd go
to
> Gregg racing and tell em to design me one. As it is I'm looking at
$1000 to get
> fuel to the injectors without messing with the
tank.
>
> If I use foam I'll get the same stuff they stuff in fuel
cells. I'm not sure how I'll
> approach the baffles --- I don't like to
weld in the tank either --- maybe some
> type of epoxy ?!?!?
>
> Jim Berry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> > I promise not to say it again..but dont reengineer what you can
buy today.
> >
> > Fuel cells are already there, already have
the approvals you'll need to
> > get ON a race track..and its your butt
if welding your tank together isnt
> > as good as it was before you cut
it opn in a wreck.
> >
> > Just one of those
things..
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 17:13:09
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big red pads
The stock proportioning valve is not adjustable --- hell
it's not even visible,
unless you use mirrors. When I have my engine out I'm
going to replace
the stock valve with adjustable ones in a more accessable
location. I still
have my rear brake redesign on the back burner --- lack of
funds prevent
completion. My desire to go fast is exceeds my desire to stop
fast.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Sankar,
>
> It is not advisable to upset the stock brake
bias. It is hard to get to
> (it is along the firewall behind
everything) and would probably do more
> harm than good.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Yoss
> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
16:53
>
> BTW, my rear stock pads still have a lot of life in
them. Are our cars
> setup with a front brake bias? If so, is
it possible to setup a neutral
> bias? Are there any disadvantages
to upsetting the stock bias?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:20:17
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tirerack.com question
I will look through the computer tomorrow
at work for wheels fitting a
VR4 in the 17" Size... I know there aren't
many, but I believe the
Enkei RP01 is one of them, and pretty sure I saw it
in the computer
today, possibly in stock also... Tires.com /
Discounttiredirect.com
(same thing) do not show anything available, but I've
heard that's most
likely due to fitment problems, and never being tooo
terribly sure...
(the vr4 is a pain to fit wheels to as many people know
already...)
Wheels that look like they fit don't even come close, and others
barely
miss the caliper by a few mm (which is enough
coincidentally...)
18's aren't a whole lot more than 17's... I would
personally go that
route...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Desert Fox
Sent: Thursday,
April 25, 2002 10:53 AM
To: glenn amy; Team 3S list
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tirerack.com question
I bought 17" Mille Miglia Spider rims from Tire
Rack for my Pirelli Snow
Pro
tires in 235/45R17. They work
great.
My OEM chrome rims are bent and scraped from previous owner's
ineptitude
but
I do like the feel of the Kumho 245/40R18 that I also
bought from Tire
Rack.
Like Rich said, they might simply be out of
stock of 17" at this time.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on
4/25/02 8:58 AM, glenn amy at
glenn_amy@yahoo.com scribbled:
>
OK I AM TOO STUPID TO LIVE!
>
> I'm looking for 17 inch wheels for
my 93 vr4. I go to
> tirerack.com and enter the year, make and
model. For
> tires, it shows me 245/45/17 - perfect, then I
click
> wheels, it only shows me 4, and they are all
>
18inchers.
>
> So for those smarter than me, how do I get a list
of
> 17inchers for a 93 vr4 to appear?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 19:22:32
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
My R4S have never made one bad sound... I have
slotted rotors though,
and I'm told that helps out tremendously... BTW
- once broken in
properly, my R4S have not dusted even close to as bad as
stock brakes...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Thursday, April 25, 2002 2:12 PM
To: Damon Rachell;
dschilberg@pobox.comCc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Big red pads
At 12:11 PM 4/25/02 -0700, Damon Rachell
wrote:
>You don't mean R4 you mean R4S. The R4 pad is a race bread
pad which
>dusts like crazy while the R4S dusts significantly less.
Less initial
>bite on the R4 as well which equates to easier daily
driving.
>
The R4 and R4S pads also squeal like a stuck pig when cold.
Kinda
embarassing on the street.
Stock Porsche pads is probably your
best choice for the street.
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:47:57
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big red pads
Damon,
Just because I am not
spouting math calculations does not mean it is
not a technical
post.
Of course now that I have cooled off from writing that
and it is an
hour or two later I see there are a few other emails from list
members
also noting that changing the brake bias via the stock
proportioning
valve is difficult and probably not worth it unless it is a
true track
car or something with some adjustability.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002
18:35
why is it not advisable? If it's properly tuned then
there are only
beneficial outcomes to improved brake bias. and yes,
our cars do favor
increased front bias. Especially with larger pads
and calipers.
If I remember correctly, though, the ABS needs modifying as
well, so a
brake bias adjustment install is not straight forward.
