Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, April 24
2002 Volume 01 : Number
821
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:20:54 -0400
From: "Chris McFarland" <
cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: HELP:
1994 3000gt SL wants to die at low rpm when hot
Another item that may be
the offending culprit is the Idle Air Control
(IAC ) motor. When mine
went bad, the car would not even idle on it's own.
I had to keep in the gas
just to keep it running. This may not be your
problem as you said that
the car ran fine for quite some distance, but it
could be going bad causing
your symptoms. I forget exactly how to check it,
so grab your service
manual and see if that's it.
Chris McFarland
93 Stealth R/T
TT
RJM wrote:
> Well, I finally got the fuel filter replaced
but it didn't cure the
> symptoms: today the car drove beautifully the 32
miles to work with the
> ac on the last 1/3, approximately 72deg.F.
outside (a coolfront here in
> Houston). But, on the way home
the outside temp was over 90deg.F and I
> was cruising on the highway
about 25mi around 75-90 as traffic
> permitted. I was exiting
and as I got to the light it stopped right
> after putting it in neutral
before a complete stop. Turned ac off (was
> on all the way) and
started it and it died again, I had to give it gas
> with the clutch
partially in to keep it running and gradually let out
> the clutch, must
have some safety mode to keep it from dieing while
> driving (55-70) or
while rpm's are up but at the lights it would die
> when I got to 2nd-1st
gear or stopping. Any ideas? I used to have
> this
problem with my s$%**% Merkur XR4TI but that was a Ford and it
> turned
out to be the distributer, but does this car even have a
>
distributor? This is the SL (non-turbo). No codes, only the 61
right
> front shock/strut code. Thanks for any help guys, guess I'll
have to
> drive the turbo Buick tomorrow.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:00:21
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Guage
How reliable are boost gauges that come incorporated
in a Turbo Timer such
as the Blitz one? Should I just go with a regular
mechanical one? Thanks
- -ROD
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:07:41
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Boost Guage
Rod,
Aren't most turbo timers hidden from view
like in the glove box, middle
console, under the footwell area? For
these it is not good to use as a
boost gauge since you can not see
them. Depends on the situation I
guess for that. I can't comment
on how accurate they are. I imagine
they are just as good
though.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
Sent: Tuesday, April 23,
2002 21:00
How reliable are boost gauges that come incorporated in
a Turbo Timer
such
as the Blitz one? Should I just go with a regular
mechanical one? Thanks
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:48:06
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 17
vs 18 inch rims
I like 18" rims better.
1) They fit the Brembo
14" brakes I got without problems; my stock 94 17"
rims didn't, though some
aftermarket ones may. Do ya feel lucky? :)
2) They look cooler,
and my 18x9" rims are only ~19-20 lbs.
3) I currently have
265-35-18" Kumho Ecsta V700 competition tires, and I
think 285's will
fit. Excellent!
4) I think on roadcourses, if no rules disallow
larger rims, racers tend
toward larger diameter rims due to less tire
compliance and better handling.
As the years have gone by, performance
cars/race cars used to have 14", then
15", 16", 17", now 18" is common and
don't they use ridiculous 19 or 20"
wheels on Touring cars?
Dunno. I just find it curious that 17" is a magic
best.
Maybe it is though. I know F1 etc are strictly limited in what tire
rim
size etc they allow.
6) If they made 19" roadcourse tires in
appropriate sizes and cost, I'd get
them. Because they don't, I limit
myself to 18"...though someday I'd like
some 19" for street driving,
because...They look cooler ;)
They can dent easier, especially when light
weight. There are some
complaint stories about SSR Competitions bending
when hit.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov"
<
gphilip@umich.edu> I have a
question about using 17" rims. I have been looking around for new
> rims
and this is an urgent topic for me now. Why do you guys recommend
> using
17" over the 18"? The arguments that I heard are lower cost, lighter
>
weight, and a lower gearing. I agree with the point about the lower
>
gearing, however at my current driving level I have plenty of horsepower
>
for open tracking. But why should I worry about cost if I can get
Kumho
18"
> for $129 and 18" rims are only 1-2 lbs heavier than the
17".
> One more thing to consider is that my current rims are already 18"
and I
> have a set of Kumho tires on them what has some thread life left.
If I
> stick with 18" and Kumho I could mix and match tires and possibly
even
> wheels. If I had 17" rims and tires I would have stayed with them
too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:57:19
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Duel throttle body question.
This past weekend I saw a 300ZX TT
that had two throttle bodies. One on
each side of the intake manafold
with a throttle cable going to . Each one
was fed by a different
turbo. I asked the owner about them but he could not
tell me if it was
stock or a mod because he bought the car used with it
already
installed.
Is there such a mod for a 3S car and if there is, what would
it do? Such as
better throttle response or higher
flow?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:56:56
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 17 vs 18 inch rims
I stick to the 17's simply because of tire cost
--- I go through a set of R compound
street tires every year and the 18's
cost as much as $50 more per tire. If and when
I get my mods done and my
credit cards cooled off I'll probably go with 18 X 11 and
run 275's or 285's
but this is a money is no object approach.
285's are probably a little
wide for 9" rims --- they're fine for looks of course, but you
probably give
up some traction because of a less than optimum cross
section.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
I like 18" rims better.
> 1) They fit the Brembo 14" brakes I got
without problems; my stock 94 17"
> rims didn't, though some aftermarket
ones may. Do ya feel lucky? :)
> 2) They look cooler, and my
18x9" rims are only ~19-20 lbs.
> 3) I currently have
265-35-18" Kumho Ecsta V700 competition tires, and I
> think 285's will
fit. Excellent!
> 4) I think on roadcourses, if no rules
disallow larger rims, racers tend
> toward larger diameter rims due to
less tire compliance and better handling.
> As the years have gone by,
performance cars/race cars used to have 14", then
> 15", 16", 17", now 18"
is common and don't they use ridiculous 19 or 20"
> wheels on Touring
cars? Dunno. I just find it curious that 17" is a magic
>
best. Maybe it is though. I know F1 etc are strictly limited
in what tire
> rim size etc they allow.
> 6) If they made 19"
roadcourse tires in appropriate sizes and cost, I'd get
> them.
Because they don't, I limit myself to 18"...though someday I'd like
> some
19" for street driving, because...They look cooler ;)
>
> They can
dent easier, especially when light weight. There are some
>
complaint stories about SSR Competitions bending when hit.
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu> > I have a
question about using 17" rims. I have been looking around for new
> >
rims and this is an urgent topic for me now. Why do you guys recommend
>
> using 17" over the 18"? The arguments that I heard are lower cost,
lighter
> > weight, and a lower gearing. I agree with the point about
the lower
> > gearing, however at my current driving level I have
plenty of horsepower
> > for open tracking. But why should I worry
about cost if I can get Kumho
> 18"
> > for $129 and 18" rims are
only 1-2 lbs heavier than the 17".
> > One more thing to consider is
that my current rims are already 18" and I
> > have a set of Kumho
tires on them what has some thread life left. If I
> > stick with 18"
and Kumho I could mix and match tires and possibly even
> > wheels. If
I had 17" rims and tires I would have stayed with them too.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:21:01
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 17 vs 18 inch rims
Yes, I'd like wider rims too. My 18x9 are
38mm offset, and with 265-35
tires are just a hair away from my Ground
Control lower spring collar at a
pretty low setting. Would have to get
less offset, stick rims out a touch,
in order to fit 10" rims and wider
tires. Had to start somewhere, and Tire
Rack had them in
stock...
but the car sure could use wider tires with more wear surface
area/area to
dissipate heat. This is a big factor on the front of the
car, for me; the
fronts are overworked and could use some more width.
Damn those Vettes with
their steamroller-sized tires ;) !
JT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
> I stick to 17's
because of tire cost --- I go through set of R compound
> street tires
every year and 18's cost ~$50 more per tire. If/when
> I get my mods
done/credit cards cooled off I'll prob. go18 X 11 and
> 275's/285's but
this is money is no object approach.
> 285's are probably a little wide
for 9" rims - fine for looks, but
> probably give up traction because of
less optimum cross section.
> Jim Berry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:27:54
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: pvc and drain pipe
I was told to check my pvc and drain pipe to
see if they where the cause of
smoke in the exhaust. Does anyone know what
drain pipe this could be and
where would it be located?
Mike S 92 rt
tt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:46:35
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Iridium (Denso vs NGK) compared to Splitfire
I have a set of IK20
that are collecting dust in my garage. You can have
them for a s/h fee
of 20 bux. I used them for about 50 miles and found they
do not work
well with high boost, stock ignition, and 357 turbos!
Rich
Fowler
on 4/23/02 12:14 PM, Furman, Russell at
RFurman2@MassMutual.com
wrote:
> The Denso Iridiums are part# 5304, my local shop seems to be
having
> difficulty keeping them in stock long enough for me to stop in
and buy them
> :/ First time their supplier shorted them, second
time they sold them to a
> 300ZXTT, and they just ordered them for a third
time so I can only hope and
> pray.
>
> As for the NGK's I
don't have a part number yet.
>
> Russ F
>
CT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:52:58
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 17 vs 18 inch rims
Another reason to get those camber plates --- at
least the tire you have will
be making maximum contact with the road. I keep
telling myself that if I took
half the money I spend on mods and spent it on
driving schools I'd probably
be a lot
faster.
Jim
berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
> but the car
sure could use wider tires with more wear surface area/area to
> dissipate
heat. This is a big factor on the front of the car, for me; the
>
fronts are overworked and could use some more width. Damn those Vettes
with
> their steamroller-sized tires ;) !
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 04:07:51
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Duel throttle body question.
Wouldn't that send both streams directly at
each other,
creating some bad turbulence? I'm not sure what effect
that
would have...
Alex
> This past weekend I saw a 300ZX TT that had
two throttle bodies. One on
> each side of the intake manafold with
a throttle cable going to . Each one
> was fed by a different
turbo. I asked the owner about them but he could not
> tell me if it
was stock or a mod because he bought the car used with it
> already
installed.
>
> Is there such a mod for a 3S car and if there is,
what would it do? Such as
> better throttle response or higher
flow?
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:09:06
-0500
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: eBay
Seller : dohccivicna1250
This guy is selling K&N filters on ebay
(item #1823585960). And before I
even consider him I figure someone on here
has bought one from him as
his feedback is somewhere in the 1600s. Also, I'm
curious as to how he
can get by selling these for $69.00. I'm sure he's not
including the
cleaning kit, but thats a huge discount. Thanks again for any
response
you all grace me with ;)
- -D
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 00:07:25
-0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire pressure
Hello all,
Can anyone tell me what
the tire pressure should be on a 93 3kgt
vr4. The label on the drivers
door can not be read.
Also, What is the best way to check the
tension on the
alternator and the ps belt. I think I have them in range, but
I am
afraid they might be too tight.
Thanks,
Joseph
93 3kgt
vr4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:17:10
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: eBay Seller : dohccivicna1250
He is probably selling the drop-in
filters and not the filter charger. The
drop-in goes in the factory air
box and the filter charger is a cone
filter.
Paul
92RT/TT
----- Original Message
-----
> From: "David Allison" <
daedel@mac.com>
> To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Sent: Tuesday,
April 23, 2002 9:09 PM
> Subject: Team3S: eBay Seller :
dohccivicna1250
>
>
> > This guy is selling K&N filters
on ebay (item #1823585960). And before I
> > even consider him I figure
someone on here has bought one from him as
> > his feedback is
somewhere in the 1600s. Also, I'm curious as to how he
> > can get by
selling these for $69.00. I'm sure he's not including the
> > cleaning
kit, but thats a huge discount. Thanks again for any response
> > you
all grace me with ;)
> >
> > -D
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:19:08
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Iridium (Denso vs NGK) compared to
Splitfire
I had some Denso Iridiums in my 92 and
I broke the insulator off of the
number 1 plug. I was getting
some knock but nothing too big. Anyway, I
yanked em and went back
to the NGKs. They are the best all around in
my
oppinion.
Paul
92RT/TT
-----
Original Message -----
> From: "Anthony Melillo" <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
>
To: "3000GT List Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>; "Team 3S
List
> Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 12:07 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Iridium (Denso
vs NGK) compared to Splitfire
>
> > It is time to replace my
spark plugs, and I am looking to get the Denso
> Iridium plugs that
everyone keeps raving about.
> > I had previously used Splitfire Triple
Platinum, and they worked great.
> >
> > But when I was
looking for Iridium plugs, I was surprised when I
actually
> found two,
Denso Iridium and NGK Iridium IX.
> >
> > Anyone know what the
difference between the two and which would be
better
> ?
>
>
> > Also, what part number and gap would be best for my car in
it's current
> state of modification ? Check out my car here for
more
> > information:
> >
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm>
>
> > Thanks all
> > Anthony Melillo
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:34:31
-0400
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Idle Air Motor problem
Thanks for the tip I located the test
procedure in the manual however it involves
using a 6 volt source so I'll
have to find my universal DC adapter for that. BTW
the manual mentions
"servo" but it refers to it as IAC (Idle Air Controller).
So my final
question is: Are IACs interchangeable between turbo & non turbo
cars
and 1st and 2nd gens? I'm thinking maybe I can find an NA piece in
the junkyard
maybe.
thanks
-Mark
Frouhar
95 VR4
85 TA 379 DFI T56
http://www.geocities.com/Legoland0"Willis,
Charles E." wrote:
>
> is this the ISC - Idle Servo
Controller? if so, I have tested the one for
> the Eclipse out of
the car - I think it was just connecting it to 12V DC,
> but there should
be a test procedure in the service manual ...
>
> > The part# for
the Air control motor is MD628053 but I'd hate to pay the
> > $248
mitsu direct
> > is asking for it. It's just a little
motor...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:43:17
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: interior pices...need dark grey a/b pillars
WTB...interior pieces
for Stealth R/T with sunroof....looking for the
upper stuff only....a/b
pillars and skinny cross piece as well as
sunroof crank stuff...I will pay
fair market value...please respond
with shipping to 98058 Renton WA
included.
thanks..bobk
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:42:16
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Caps hood part #
Hello all, this morning on the way to work a
large truck decided to back up
over me and I need to look for a replacement
hood. I am hoping to replace it
w/ a carbon fiber one (possibley from
dynamic racing) but I wanted to see
what the factory replacement cost. I
have caps at home but not here at work,
it is a 92 VR4 if someone could send
me a part # I would appreciated it.
Also if anyone has suggestions where to
order factory replacement or
aftermarket cf hood I am all
ears.
Tom
92 VR4 (with damaged hood)
TNT3KGT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:46:47
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caps hood part #
04/90 - 05/93 ALL
MB637513
HOOD 218B 1 $ 597.92 $ 478.34
(price from
mitsupartsdirect.com)
- --Erik
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:52:59
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Caps hood part #
The Mitchell Collision Estimating Guides are
reproduced at my web site on the
Garage Page. They have the part numbers and
list prices for many parts,
including all body panels ($460 list for '91-'93
hood itself).
3000GT:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell.htmStealth:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell-s.htmMy
Garage Page also lists discount Mitsu dealers.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:42 AM
Subject: Team3S: Caps hood part
#
Hello all, this morning on the way to work a large truck decided to
back up
over me and I need to look for a replacement hood. I am hoping to
replace it
w/ a carbon fiber one (possibley from dynamic racing) but I
wanted to see
what the factory replacement cost. I have caps at home but not
here at work,
it is a 92 VR4 if someone could send me a part # I would
appreciated it.
Also if anyone has suggestions where to order factory
replacement or
aftermarket cf hood I am all ears.
Tom
92 VR4 (with
damaged hood)
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:00:48
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Duel throttle body question.
> This past weekend I saw a 300ZX
TT that had two throttle
> bodies. One on each side of the intake
manafold with
> a throttle cable going to . Each one was fed by a
> different turbo. I asked the owner about them but he
>
could not tell me if it was stock or a mod because he
> bought the car
used with it already installed.
>
That's stock on a 300ZX TT -
it's almost like two 1.5L 3-cyl engines that
share a crank.
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:22:28
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: eBay
Seller : dohccivicna1250
I haven't bought the filter from this person,
but it seems to me that the
filter is a universal K&N filter with an
adapter. Universal filters only
cost around $40 at any online shop, the
filter can also be found on ebay for
around $12-$20. My guess is that he's
got a cheap source for the filters and
is making some good profit. try
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/universal_intake_adapters.htmthey
sell the universal 4.5" inlet K&N filter for $39 and they also sell
an
adapter, but I'm not sure if it's for our car or the DSM. It does list
bolt
hole measurements so you can check if it fits your MAF.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "David Allison" <
daedel@mac.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
April 23, 2002 9:09 PM
Subject: Team3S: eBay Seller :
dohccivicna1250
> This guy is selling K&N filters on ebay (item
#1823585960). And before I
> even consider him I figure someone on here
has bought one from him as
> his feedback is somewhere in the 1600s. Also,
I'm curious as to how he
> can get by selling these for $69.00. I'm sure
he's not including the
> cleaning kit, but thats a huge discount. Thanks
again for any response
> you all grace me with ;)
>
>
-D
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:28:52
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Caps
hood part #
There's a Group Buy going on in 3si.org right now for
pitroadm hoods. I
believe the carbon fiber hood is going for $1388. Here's
the price list for
the Group Buy:
M-16 Fighter hoods 1st or 2nd gen
(FRP) $1395.00 retail GB price $1180.00
M-16 Fighter hoods 1st or 2nd gen
(Carbonfiber) $1649.00 GB price $1388.00
M-16 Falcon front bumper 1st or 2nd
gen (FRP) $1295.00 retail GB price
$1080.00
If you don't know what teh
fighter hoods look like, check out the link to
the thread and there are
pictures there.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68502&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 24, 2002 8:42 AM
Subject: Team3S: Caps hood part
#
> Hello all, this morning on the way to work a large truck decided
to back
up
> over me and I need to look for a replacement hood. I am
hoping to replace
it
> w/ a carbon fiber one (possibley from dynamic
racing) but I wanted to see
> what the factory replacement cost. I have
caps at home but not here at
work,
> it is a 92 VR4 if someone could
send me a part # I would appreciated it.
> Also if anyone has suggestions
where to order factory replacement or
> aftermarket cf hood I am all
ears.
>
>
> Tom
> 92 VR4 (with damaged hood)
>
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:26:10
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Caps hood part #
Jeff and Erick thanks for the prompt replies. I
called Ron at Libertyville
Mitsubishi per Dave Blacks advice for the 33%
team 3/S discount... he was
very nice and helpfull but the price he gave me
is 603.90 hood list and
483.12 team 3/s discount. Dosent seem like much of a
discount to me... more
of a high list price!
>From: "Jeff Lucius"
<
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>To:
"" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Caps hood part #
>Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:52:59
-0000
>
>The Mitchell Collision Estimating Guides are reproduced at
my web site on
>the
>Garage Page. They have the part numbers and
list prices for many parts,
>including all body panels ($460 list for
'91-'93 hood
itself).
>
>3000GT:
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell.htm
>
>Stealth:
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell-s.htm
>
>My
Garage Page also lists discount Mitsu dealers.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:44:02
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caps hood part #
> I called Ron at Libertyville
Mitsubishi per Dave Blacks
> advice for the 33% team 3/S discount... he
was very nice
> and helpfull but the price he gave me is 603.90
>
hood list and 483.12 team 3/s discount. Dosent seem like
> much of a
discount to me... more of a high list price!
That's pretty close to the
standard Mitsubishi List price, but he only gave
you a 20% discount!??!
What's up with that?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:57:23
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Caps hood part #
On Wed, Apr 24, 2002, Gross, Erik <
erik.gross@intel.com> wrote:
>
That's pretty close to the standard Mitsubishi List price, but he only
gave
> you a 20% discount!??! What's up with
that?
Libertyville Mitsubishi only offers a 20% (off list price) discount
to the 3Si
club members. I received a quote for the 60K parts and also
spoke with Ron at
the parts department to confirm the 20% discount.
I
like Tall Mits better, with their 25% discount; atleast for the 60K
parts
that I ordered.
- -sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
Beverly:
"If you were any more perfect, Data, I'd have to write you up in a
Starfleet medical textbook."
Data: "I am already listed in several
bio-mechanical texts, Doctor."
Beverly: "Yes, of course."
- --Beverly and
Data, "The Naked Now", Stardate
41
*******************************************************************************
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:02:38
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caps hood part #
if you want a hood...I have a 1st gen that
is green with a very small
ding in the front of it.......100.00 and it is
yours..you need to
arrange shipping or pick it up. Also my opinion on these
carbon fiber
group buys on the 3si board is this...they start out with all
kinds
of steam and as soon as the money starts to flow in for these boys
it
changes on a daily basis...almost like those pyramid scams
awhile
back. the style changes...shipping is undoable...import costs
are
outragous.....nobody can find the guy who started the thread and
then
it just fades away with unfilled orders that have been paid. I
have
not been burned financially on the hoods personally but the only
work
I have seen done and deliverable is by a guy in my state...I have
the
hood he made a mold from for 2nd gen cars....but all he has is
a
mold...no hoods to sell. I was in on the ab flug group buy then it
got
dropped to a pitrod style....dont want pitrod...wanted
abflug...the guy said
to bad it will be pitrod-m for the buy...I
bailed some sent in money and
nobody got hoods......still waiting as
of last October....fair warning! I
live in washington state if your
looking to get it fixed with an oem
hood....much less than 500-600 by
ant means.
hope this
helped......sorry for the length
bobk.
- ---- Original Message
----
From:
erik.gross@intel.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Caps hood part #
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:44:02
-0700
>> I called Ron at Libertyville Mitsubishi per Dave
Blacks
>> advice for the 33% team 3/S discount... he was very
nice
>> and helpfull but the price he gave me is 603.90
>>
hood list and 483.12 team 3/s discount. Dosent seem like
>> much of a
discount to me... more of a high list price!
>
>That's pretty close
to the standard Mitsubishi List price, but he
>only gave
>you a 20%
discount!??! What's up with that?
>
>--Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:14:03
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Bad: my was-near-perfect
'95 VR-4 is considered a total loss
Good: I get a check for about
$21,000, which is about what I paid for it
last May.
The decision at
hand:
***********************
The salvage value of the car is
$3900.00 That means that I can buy my car
back from the insurance
company for $3900 (getting a net check for around
$17,000). I have to
decide *today* whether I'm keeping the car or not. I'm
leaning toward
keeping it (either for parts, race car, or fix it myself to
street
condition). Worth it to keep it? Is there a market for parts if
I
part it out? Should I take the money and run? Comments?
If it makes any
difference, I do have a garage I can keep the car in for an
extended period
if I decide to buy it back.
Car
info:
*************************
1995 3000GT VR-4 39,000mi
Front end
damage (fenders, hood, bumper)
Light rear quarter panel damage
Bent rear
wheel
Near-perfect leather interior
2, maybe 3, good wheels
Unscathed
Motor, Turbos
Unscathed Transmission
(previous tiny leak, and mechanically
great)
Pictures:
*************************
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_oops.htmlhttp://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_erik.htmlThanks,
-
--Erik
Beat up '95 VR-4
** Note: please keep all non-technical
responses off the Team3s list per
the list rules - thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:27:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Maybe you could part it out
for more than the cost of buying it back, but
think of the work. Or you
could have it just as a parts car assuming
you're buying another VR4.
That might be worthwhile if you don't consider
the cost of storing a hulk in
your garage to be an 'incremental expense'.
Besides I have a feeling
that in the government's eyes that $17000 you
think you have to knock around
with will be more like $11000 come next
april.
If it were me, and if
I were planning on continuing with these cars, I
would probably buy it back,
strip all useful parts from it, and then have
the hulk hauled away for scrap
metal. That way you get the benefit of a
spare parts collection but
don't take up a whole garage worth of space
indefinitely.
On Wed, 24
Apr 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
> Bad: my was-near-perfect '95 VR-4
is considered a total loss
>
> Good: I get a check for about
$21,000, which is about what I paid for it
> last May.
>
>
The decision at hand:
> ***********************
> The salvage
value of the car is $3900.00 That means that I can buy my car
> back
from the insurance company for $3900 (getting a net check for around
>
$17,000). I have to decide *today* whether I'm keeping the car or
not. I'm
> leaning toward keeping it (either for parts, race car, or
fix it myself to
> street condition). Worth it to keep it? Is
there a market for parts if I
> part it out? Should I take the money
and run? Comments? If it makes any
> difference, I do have a
garage I can keep the car in for an extended period
> if I decide to buy
it back.
>
> Car info:
> *************************
>
1995 3000GT VR-4 39,000mi
> Front end damage (fenders, hood, bumper)
> Light rear quarter panel damage
> Bent rear wheel
>
Near-perfect leather interior
> 2, maybe 3, good wheels
> Unscathed
Motor, Turbos
> Unscathed Transmission
> (previous tiny leak, and
mechanically great)
>
> Pictures:
>
*************************
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_oops.html>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_erik.html>
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik
> Beat up '95 VR-4
>
> ** Note: please keep all non-technical responses off the Team3s
list per
> the list rules - thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:39:53
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: So
they're gonna total my VR-4....
Hmmm --- tempting thought to keep it, but
parting it out is a major PITA.
Getting serious buyers, pulling parts,
packaging, shipping, having
people flame you because you sent the wrong part
etc. etc.
It would be interesting to see what it would cost to fix as a
low cost project !!!
As a race car it would be a lot easier --- you don't
need to replace the
airbags etc. Don't be too sure about no engine damage ---
those sudden
stops have a way of bending a lot of stuff up.
If it
were mine and I had the room for a project of that type I'd strip it down
to
a race car --- all I lack is the car, the space, and the money, the time,
besides
if I showed up at my house with another project I'd have to sleep at
night with
one eye open ---- my wife would be looking to remove some of my
favorite
body parts.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:42:03
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: So
they're gonna total my VR-4....
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"David Margrave" <
davidma@eskimo.com>
> Besides
I have a feeling that in the government's eyes that $17000 you
> think you
have to knock around with will be more like $11000 come next
> april.
The government doesn't consider insurance claims as income [ yet
].
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:50:21
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Hi Erik,
Well, for $4k, I'd
definitely keep the car. The long block alone in
working condition is
worth almost that much. The electronics, like the
ECM, abs controller,
etc are worth another grand or so. The leather in
good condition is
worth atleast $500. Not to mention, the tranny,
transfer, driveshaft,
and diff (6-speed conversion) is worth $3-4k!!!
Christ, you can sell the
exhaust tips for $50!!! So, for $3900, and a
couple of weekends of work,
you've gained atleast $5K!!! Here comes a
96 or 97 VR-4!!!
KEEP
THE CAR IN THE GARAGE AND SELL THE PARTS.
Trust me, it's worth far more
than what they're offering. The junk yard
that they'd tow it to will
be making a KILLING on that piece of scrap.
Good
luck
Damon
Gross, Erik wrote:
> Bad: my
was-near-perfect '95 VR-4 is considered a total loss
>
> Good: I
get a check for about $21,000, which is about what I paid for it
> last
May.
>
> The decision at hand:
>
***********************
> The salvage value of the car is $3900.00
That means that I can buy my car
> back from the insurance company for
$3900 (getting a net check for around
> $17,000). I have to decide
*today* whether I'm keeping the car or not. I'm
> leaning toward
keeping it (either for parts, race car, or fix it myself to
> street
condition). Worth it to keep it? Is there a market for parts if
I
> part it out? Should I take the money and run?
Comments? If it makes any
> difference, I do have a garage I can
keep the car in for an extended period
> if I decide to buy it
back.
>
> Car info:
> *************************
> 1995
3000GT VR-4 39,000mi
> Front end damage (fenders, hood, bumper)
>
Light rear quarter panel damage
> Bent rear wheel
> Near-perfect
leather interior
> 2, maybe 3, good wheels
> Unscathed Motor,
Turbos
> Unscathed Transmission
> (previous tiny leak, and
mechanically great)
>
> Pictures:
>
*************************
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_oops.html>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/page1_erik.html>
>
> Thanks,
> --Erik
> Beat up '95 VR-4
>
> ** Note: please keep all non-technical responses off the Team3s
list per
> the list rules - thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:54:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
*nods* But you have
to weigh the value of the parts..to the time it would
take to realize any of
that.
I had a hard time _giving away_ parts when I parted mine
out.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:02:34
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
I guess I missed the
explanation of what happened that caused this mishap
for you but I would
recommend keeping the car. You've got one just like mine
and I might be
interested in certain parts myself. Like Geoff pointed out,
there is value
there beyond $4K. It can be a PITA to part out but it can
also be
worthwile.
Keep it and put the remaining $17K or whatever toward your
next ride.
Whether or not it is another VR-4 of any year is just a decision
on your
part.
Email me off list and we can talk of which things I
might want first crack
at. You are in Washington? I might even be interested
in a drive out to see
your poor, crumpled VR-4.
But my advice would be
to keep it.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 15:22:59
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: what fuse for headlight wiring harness upgrade
I just purchased a
set of aftermarket PIAA Headlights and a wiring harness upgrade for my 1997
VR-4. The harness came with the
relays, but I noticed that it does not
have a fuse in it.
It has two wires that attach to the battery, and I
would like to add a fuse to the wires just in case the wire shorts out, since
it
is connected directly to the battery.
What size fuse should I use
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 15:36:57
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Paul -- You remember Erik's
mishap. At an Autocross school into the
concrete barrier? I too
have the same car and am hoping he keeps it to
sell as parts or gut, fix the
body, then sell it to me and save me the
work <g>.
You will get
more than $4k from parts but it will be a dirty job. I
know I would
like to replace a lot of items with stock components and
from a car with such
low miles I would jump at items from Erik's car.
It saves money on the
aftermarket upgrade and I am not always going to
need a different ECU or fuel
pump for this year's mods.
- --Flash!
1995 Black VR-4 ...
uncrumpled
- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
Sent:
Wednesday, April 24, 2002 15:03
I guess I missed the explanation of
what happened that caused this
mishap
for you but I would recommend
keeping the car. You've got one just like
mine
and I might be interested
in certain parts myself. Like Geoff pointed
out,
there is value there
beyond $4K. It can be a PITA to part out but it can
also be
worthwile.
Keep it and put the remaining $17K or whatever toward your
next ride.
Whether or not it is another VR-4 of any year is just a decision
on your
part.
Email me off list and we can talk of which things I
might want first
crack
at. You are in Washington? I might even be
interested in a drive out to
see
your poor, crumpled VR-4.
But my
advice would be to keep it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:52:14
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: what fuse for headlight wiring harness upgrade
Adding a fuse
to a new wiring circuit is an excellent idea. You can calculate
what the amp
draw is from the bulb wattage.
watts = volts times amps.
or
amps =
watts divided by volts.
So, if you have a 50 watt bulb, then the current
draw would be about 4.17 amps
if a nominal 12 volts is supplied. 50 / 12 =
4.16667. If the bulb uses 100
watts, then the current draw would be 8.33
amps. 100 / 12 = 8.3333. You get
the idea. If the fuse is protecting two
bulbs, then double the watts.
In-line ATC fuse holders are cheap and
readily available. Just buy one and use
a 10A or 20A ATC fuse (or whatever
size is needed). ATC fuses are the type
used in the fuse box by the driver's
left foot.
Be sure you use the correct gauge (size) wire to minimize
voltage loss along
the wire. Here is a link with some guidelines.
http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Melillo" <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
To:
"3000GT List Submissions" <
Stealth@starnet.net>; "Team 3S List
Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: what fuse for headlight
wiring harness upgrade
<snip>
What size fuse should I use
?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:38:50
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Caps hood part #
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom
Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
> Jeff and
Erick thanks for the prompt replies. I called Ron at Libertyville
Mitsubishi
per Dave Blacks advice for the 33% team 3/S discount... he was
very nice and
helpfull but the price he gave me is 603.90 hood list and
483.12 team 3/s
discount. Dosent seem like much of a discount to me... more
of a high list
price!
- --------------------------------->
Libertyville may have
given Dave Black 33% off on a part or two (maybe he's
a regular customer?),
but before we listed them on our Team3S "Good Guys"
vendors page, we verified
first. They only give 20%, according to Ron, and
they don't yet give a
walk-in discount on parts/service like some other
dealers do, either.
(But he said he's working on it with their Service
Department). It's a
good discount, but 25% is better. ;-) I'm hoping that
when they
see other vendors' discounts, they might consider going with 25%.
Check with
the other 25% vendors on the Good Guys Page for the best price.
We don't take
money for listing vendors, so the best price gets the most
business from
us. Power of the internet,
folks...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:55:58
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Thanks for all the responses,
guys - I'm heavily leaning toward keeping the
car.
> Why did
they call it a "total loss" if there is only
> front end damage on the
fenders, hood, and bumper,
> as well as some light rear damage and a bent
wheel?
> That doesn't sound like a total loss to me??
Is
> the frame bent? Is the engine still working?
> There
must be more damage than just the visible
> exterior stuff??
It's a
total loss due to the amount of damage to the car, not because
anything is
irreparably damaged. The car still drives and the engine runs -
it was
still running after the accident. No coolant or engine oil
leaks.
There's a little frame sway on the front rails (couple inches), but
that
shouldn't be a big deal on a unibody car. Estimate is about $400
for the
unibody machine (if I take the bumper off myself) to return the car
to
pre-accident condition structurally. Then there's the upper and
lower
radiator supports that have to be cut out and new ones welded in.
Keep in
mind that parts on these things are EXPENSIVE!
Examples: Active Aero dam and motor: $1300; Intercooler: $600;
Airbags,
Sensors, SRS Computer: $3200; Wheel: $600; Hood $1100; Fenders
$1400; Front
Bumper $1100; Radiator $600; Windshield $800; etc. etc.
etc. Note these
costs are including tax, labor, and painting - as
the repair estimate
includes.
Unless I can see a huge
disadvantage to doing so, I think I'll keep the car.
So far the only
downsides I can see are: might lose $1000-$2000 if I can't
find anyone
who wants the parts (seems like a low risk); will be a big time
sink if I
decide to repair it myself or part it out, takes up space in my
garage so my
friends can't change their oil.
Upsides include: I will have
a parts car; I might be able to fix it myself
for a lot less; I could make a
few bucks on the parts if it works out right;
I can take ALL my gofast parts
off the car if I part it out (I'd just take
the convenient things off if I
ditch it to the insurance co.); and I have
something that I get to take apart
(remember, I'm an engineer 8)
I'll have to talk with the foreman at the
body shop about what exactly is
needed to repair the car before I decide
whether it becomes parts for me and
you or if it gets to be a car
again.
I'll keep y'all posted...
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:59:08
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
EK2MFG@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
Erik,
you saw what I
worked with....about 4000.00 total in return.
I want your black upper
interior...
bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 15:59:59
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
> Keep
in
>mind that parts on these things are EXPENSIVE!
>
>Examples: Active Aero dam and motor: $1300; Intercooler:
$600; Airbags,
>Sensors, SRS Computer: $3200; Wheel: $600; Hood $1100;
Fenders $1400; Front
>Bumper $1100; Radiator $600; Windshield $800; etc.
etc. etc. Note these
>costs are including tax, labor, and
painting - as the repair estimate
>includes.
>
Let me
add: The plastic side piece -- that runs from the front fender, across the door,
and into the rear fender -- is about $1.98 worth of plastic, but it costs $1600.
I just took off my $1300 active aero dam and motor to get rid of the
weight. $1300? Wow!
Rich/slow old poop/been there.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 23:52:16
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost Guage
> Aren't most turbo timers hidden from view
like in the glove box, middle
> console, under the footwell
area?
No, no, especially the blitz Dual Turbo Timers have peak hold and
real time
boost gauge as this one determines the count down by how much boost
or
vaccum the car was driven. Especially the DC-DTT has now a remote
display
with about three keys and the main box is mounted somewhere
else.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:55:06
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
$1,100 for a hood? Can't
you order them already matched to the stock
black color? Someone just
sent a price from a Mitsu dealer for about
$550 or $480 with discount.
Right? Get the $1,100 from the insurance
then turn around and buy one
for $500. Am I missing something here? No
labor, painting,
repairing necessary when you order the hood and install
it yourself,
right?
I don't know about the others. Wheel is about right,
intercooler, etc.
Just that the price of the stock hood went around today so
that one
jumped out at me.
- --Flash!
1995 Black VR-4 and a
potential user of Erik's parts =)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gross, Erik
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002
16:56
Examples: Active Aero dam and motor: $1300;
Intercooler: $600; Airbags,
Sensors, SRS Computer: $3200; Wheel: $600; Hood
$1100; Fenders $1400;
Front
Bumper $1100; Radiator $600; Windshield $800;
etc. etc. etc. Note
these
costs are including tax, labor, and
painting - as the repair estimate
includes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:57:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Boost Guage
Thanks, Roger. He explained to me privately
that this one is the
two-piece design with a remote display. I didn't
see this detail in the
original email so I was thinking of the small little
single piece design
(1/4 DIN or something) that is commonly put in those
places I mentioned.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002
17:52
> Aren't most turbo timers hidden from view like in the
glove box,
middle
> console, under the footwell area?
No, no,
especially the blitz Dual Turbo Timers have peak hold and real
time
boost
gauge as this one determines the count down by how much boost or
vaccum the
car was driven. Especially the DC-DTT has now a remote
display
with about
three keys and the main box is mounted somewhere else.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 15:04:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
There's a point of diminishing
return here. Obviously when it gets to the
point that the plastic
wingdings for an 11 year-old car become a large
percentage of the blue book
value (say $1700 for the plastic wingdings on
a 6 or 7k blue book '91
stealth), then you have to get into serious
cost/benefit analysis. Is
it worth trying to maintain in a pristine
condition with all OEM parts?
Are alternative sources of parts
available?
I'm curious about how
other car enthusiast groups deal with parts issues.
For example you are not
going to be able to find stock anything for an
old Studebaker or Edsal.
In some instances we may be forced to fabricate
our own parts. For
example, I had the power antenna shred a plastic worm
gear and quit
working. $300 for a new antenna? No way! So I made a
gear
with a dremel tool that lasted about a year and then quit. One of
these
days I'm going to make another gear, and this time do a proper job on
my
milling machine with a rotary table. Just the very idea of shelling
out
$300 because a 5 cent part got toasted brings out my stubborn side.
I'll
spend the $300 on tooling just to make the 5 cent part, that's just how
I
am!
I think Erik's idea of just using it as a track car has
merit. No need to
worry about shelling out for plastic wingdings for a
track car. Tear out
the AC, etc and all nonessential stuff, etc.
If it runs, don't worry
about it.
On Wed, 24 Apr 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> > Keep in
> >mind that parts on these
things are EXPENSIVE!
> >
> >Examples: Active
Aero dam and motor: $1300; Intercooler: $600; Airbags,
> >Sensors, SRS
Computer: $3200; Wheel: $600; Hood $1100; Fenders $1400; Front
>
>Bumper $1100; Radiator $600; Windshield $800; etc. etc. etc.
Note these
> >costs are including tax, labor, and painting - as the
repair estimate
> >includes.
> >
>
> Let me
add: The plastic side piece -- that runs from the front fender, across the door,
and into the rear fender -- is about $1.98 worth of plastic, but it costs $1600.
>
> I just took off my $1300 active aero dam and motor to get rid
of the weight. $1300? Wow!
>
> Rich/slow old poop/been
there.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:15:49
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
At 03:04 PM 4/24/02 -0700,
David Margrave wrote:
>
>Obviously when it gets to the
>point
that the plastic wingdings for an 11 year-old car become a
large
>percentage of the blue book value (say $1700 for the plastic
wingdings on
>a 6 or 7k blue book '91 stealth), then you have to get into
serious
>cost/benefit analysis. Is it worth trying to maintain in a
pristine
>condition with all OEM parts? Are alternative sources of
parts
>available?
My local tuner just bought a wrecked VR4 off EBay
for $3500. The front end is toast, but it's driveable. He plans to spend a
thousand dollars or so on an aftermarket body kit and get the car back on the
road right away. He expects to make a 12-sec car out of it.
I don't know
where he gets his deals, but he buys aftermarket stuff from Japan a lot,
including engines. He has a 91 Stealth (base) customer car in the shop right now
that's getting a used engine being shipped in from Japan.
Going to a body
kit seems like a reasonable way to restore a wrecked 3000GT that is mechanically
sound.
Rich/slow old poop/in need of a new body (me, not the
car)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 15:31:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: So they're gonna total my VR-4....
I dunno..if the front is
so bad..its totalled, Id be concerned about
subframe integrity. Cant
hide that with a body kit.
On Wed, 24 Apr 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> At 03:04 PM 4/24/02 -0700, David Margrave wrote:
>
>
> >Obviously when it gets to the
> >point that the
plastic wingdings for an 11 year-old car become a large
> >percentage
of the blue book value (say $1700 for the plastic wingdings on
> >a 6
or 7k blue book '91 stealth), then you have to get into serious
>
>cost/benefit analysis. Is it worth trying to maintain in a
pristine
> >condition with all OEM parts? Are alternative sources
of parts
> >available?
>
> My local tuner just bought a
wrecked VR4 off EBay for $3500. The front end is toast, but it's driveable. He
plans to spend a thousand dollars or so on an aftermarket body kit and get the
car back on the road right away. He expects to make a 12-sec car out of
it.
>
> I don't know where he gets his deals, but he buys
aftermarket stuff from Japan a lot, including engines. He has a 91 Stealth
(base) customer car in the shop right now that's getting a used engine being
shipped in from Japan.
>
> Going to a body kit seems like a
reasonable way to restore a wrecked 3000GT that is mechanically sound.
>
> Rich/slow old poop/in need of a new body (me, not the car)
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:06:26
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost Guage
>DC-DTT has now a remote display with about
three keys and the main box >is
mounted somewhere else.
>boost
gauge as this one determines the count down by how much boost or
>vaccum
the car was driven.
First of all, apology for not describing exactly
what turbo timer i was
talking about. thanks for clearing it up roger. now
the question i haven't
really gotten an answer to. Is the boost gauge on this
TT good enough to
monitor boost if I'm gonna be using a boost controller or
is it just a
gimmick and I'd be better off just buying a separate boost
gauge? Thanks.
- -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:17:32
-0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: -6 SX
FPR For Sale
Hey Guys,
I have a new, unused SX fuel pressure
regulator for -6 line for sale. I
would be willing to take off about 15% if
anyone is interested. Asking
$125 since I cannot return it without a
restocking fee which I would
rather give to you then them. I would be willing
to ship anywhere in US.
Regards,
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#821
***************************************