Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, April 23
2002 Volume 01 : Number
820
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:44:45 -0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
Dr. T:
Welcome to the hot group!
It
seems that 2nd gens run hot, whilst 1st gens do not.
I certainly hope you
solve the problem, cuz none of us can.
What were you doing at an F-Body
event?
Did they let you in, or was this something else?
Rich/slow old
poop/i94 VR4
At 03:41 PM 4/22/02 -0500, xwing wrote:
>My 94 with
FMIC had temps into the red zone, though never actually boiled
>over,
while at Road America this last weekend at 15-20 psi boost.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:50:11
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
Hey Jack, do you have water wetter in your
cooling system? Also are you
running a different mix of water/coolant
than the standard 50/50?
For haha's try running a 60/40 mix (along with
water wetter if not there
already) and report back if possible.
Russ
F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: xwing
[SMTP:xwing@wi.rr.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 4:41 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
>
> My 94 with FMIC had temps
into the red zone, though never actually boiled
> over, while at Road
America this last weekend at 15-20 psi boost. It was
> 33-42 F
(cold!) outside. Ran with heater on full after that, which took
>
it
> down to 1-2 notches below red usually. I plan to work on the
air
> management
> at the front of the car to assure it is routed
through/not around the
> radiator/IC, and probably a bigger/aluminum
radiator too sometime.
> I don't recall seeing it in the red zone with
sidemount IC's but never
> stared at the heat gauge before either
;)
> JT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
How many of "us" run with larger
radiators..or are all of "us" still
stock?
The extra 20Hp could just
be enough heat..to finally edge it over. Esp.
with FMIC.
On Mon,
22 Apr 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>
> Dr. T:
> Welcome to the hot group!
> It
seems that 2nd gens run hot, whilst 1st gens do not.
> I certainly hope
you solve the problem, cuz none of us can.
> What were you doing at an
F-Body event?
> Did they let you in, or was this something else?
>
> Rich/slow old poop/i94 VR4
>
> At 03:41 PM 4/22/02 -0500,
xwing wrote:
> >My 94 with FMIC had temps into the red zone, though
never actually boiled
> >over, while at Road America this last weekend
at 15-20 psi boost.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:24:28
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Silence the door buzzer
Hmmmm ---- sounds like a door buzzer is the least
of your problems !!!
Forged internals or stock ???
The connector for
the door buzzer is behind the radio on the right hand
side just in front of
the ECU --- it's a blue two wire
connector.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, April 22,
2002 12:02 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Silence the door buzzer
> Thanks
Jim, one problem the battery/washer tray etc is not in the car at the
>
moment you don't happen to remember what color the harness was?
Motor
> rocked under accell, pulled the feed hose from the Y pipe at next
light got
> on it again and BOOM. 2 of three front pistons are
damaged, haven't looked
> at the rear bank yet.........
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:49:50
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: Brake clearances
If it's the same noise, mines been doing
that for about 4 years now. It
seems to be more prevalent when it's warmer
outside, and never changes
pitch. It usually occurs between 25 and 45 mph.
However, when I hit the
brakes, it stops. And if I acellerate moderately
hard, it stops. I've
replaced the rotors and pads since the noise started,
and it's still there.
So I'm thinking has has something to do with the wheel
bearing, and seems
to be on the left rear side only. But apparently it's not
hurting anything,
just annoying.
Jeff W
'92 VR4
Belleville,
MI
>Okay - I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my
>car -
if it's the wheel bearing or the caliper.
>This weekend (before I had
to drive to chicago), the
>front driver side wheel start making a high
pitched
>noise, sort of like a belt noise. After the drive
to
>chicago the noise went away. I thought it was a wheel
>bearing,
but it was uncharacteristic of a bearing noise
>because it didn't change
from turning, or from
>different speeds.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:42:16
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: cooling engine
Jack ---- you didn't say what the conditions were when
overheating,
what gear and rpm or was it across the board. This is a concern
of
mine with a 1st gen that has had no problems in the past.
I
wouldn't be surprised to see overheating with a FMIC and 20 psi.
One of the
groups suppliers sells a heavy duty dual pass radiator
with a couple of
fans and a shroud --- $750 or
so.
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 22, 2002 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: cooling
engine
>
> Dr. T:
> Welcome to the hot group!
> It
seems that 2nd gens run hot, whilst 1st gens do not.
> I certainly hope
you solve the problem, cuz none of us can.
> What were you doing at an
F-Body event?
> Did they let you in, or was this something else?
>
> Rich/slow old poop/i94 VR4
>
> At 03:41 PM 4/22/02 -0500,
xwing wrote:
> >My 94 with FMIC had temps into the red zone, though
never actually boiled
> >over, while at Road America this last weekend
at 15-20 psi boost.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 14:45:49
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
transmission parts
Jack ---- what broke the log jam on the Getrag parts.
Were you involved
in that ??? I heard Bob Fontanas name bandied about ---
whoever was
involved should be
congratulated.
Jim
berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:47:15
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
Oh yeah I forgot this in my last message
but how about a larger oil cooler?
Try and get a Stetrab 25 row cooler they
come in various dimensions and
fittings..... Airflow will help only
problem is that on some road courses
you are high RPM+Boost but lower
speeds....
Anyhow if you come up with any brainstorms share them with the
group.
Russ F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 5:42
PM
> To: xwing;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
>
> Jack ---- you didn't
say what the conditions were when overheating,
> what gear and rpm or was
it across the board. This is a concern of
> mine with a 1st gen that has
had no problems in the past.
>
> I wouldn't be surprised to see
overheating with a FMIC and 20 psi.
> One of the groups suppliers
sells a heavy duty dual pass radiator
> with a couple of fans and a shroud
--- $750 or so.
>
>
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:54:16
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Re: cooling engine
Rich:
I'm not sure why 2nd gen would run any
hotter. Same radiator, same engine,
a little more boost stock (but we
are all beyond stock boost). Don't know
if front end air management is
better on 1G, frontal opening size seems
similar.
The clubs organize the
events, but are happy to get all types of cars in
there as it spreads out the
cost. There were 116 cars running the event.
We went 2 years ago with
the FBody people too.
Russell:
Yes, since there shouldn't be any more
freezing this year til late, I will
definitely try pure water with Water
Wetter to see if that helps, along with
some better ductwork to seal the
front air inlet up to the front of the FMIC
and radiator so no ways for air
to escape except THROUGH the radiator. I
will eventually get different
radiator too; we'll see how much of this gets
done before the next track
event I can manage to get to. Hope the motor is
still
salvageable-though-crappy.
Jack
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
It seems that 2nd gens run hot, whilst 1st gens do not.
> I certainly hope
you solve the problem, cuz none of us can.
> What were you doing at an
F-Body event?
> Did they let you in, or was this something else?
>
Rich/slow old poop/i94 VR4
> 4/22/02 xwing wrote:
> >My 94
with FMIC had temps into the red zone, though never actually boiled
>
>over, while at Road America this last weekend at 15-20 psi
boost.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:01:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: cooling engine
Thats what im doing on the
Celica.
Upgrading to the European bumper (nearly 2ft^2 more space to get
DIRECT
radiator airflow -vs- a 100% bottomfeeder approach, very large oil
cooler
W/remove oil filter mount (the lines for the mount are also a rail
cooler
for 24" of length..which adds to overall cooling).
In June, im
going to have Griffin make up a replacement upgrade.
I get maybe 2-3 laps
in the 60-70d ambiet temp range..before I puke
coolant.
On Mon, 22 Apr
2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> Oh yeah I forgot this in my last
message but how about a larger oil cooler?
> Try and get a Stetrab 25 row
cooler they come in various dimensions and
> fittings..... Airflow
will help only problem is that on some road courses
> you are high
RPM+Boost but lower speeds....
>
> Anyhow if you come up with any
brainstorms share them with the group.
>
> Russ F
>
CT
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:02:46
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
re: Brake clearances
FWIW --- I haven't used this product so don't shoot
the messenger. According
to my son-in-law, a Ford mechanic [ tech to you AR
types ], they make a product
you can spray on the pads to prevent squeaking
--- he claims it works but I'm not
sure how it holds up to aggressive brake
use.
If anybody cares I'll try to get the name from him
tonight.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 22, 2002 1:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: re: Brake
clearances
> If it's the same noise, mines been doing that for about 4
years now. It
> seems to be more prevalent when it's warmer outside, and
never changes
> pitch. It usually occurs between 25 and 45 mph. However,
when I hit the
> brakes, it stops. And if I acellerate moderately hard, it
stops. I've
> replaced the rotors and pads since the noise started, and
it's still there.
> So I'm thinking has has something to do with the wheel
bearing, and seems
> to be on the left rear side only. But apparently it's
not hurting anything,
> just annoying.
>
> Jeff W
> '92
VR4
> Belleville, MI
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:22:04
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
transmission parts
The logjam was broken by Bob Fontana!
He built up
some steam and got to writing letters, calling Mitsu, Getrag etc
and they
were finally of a mind to DO something for a change! I had burnt
out
about a year ago after long and successful (initially) but
unsuccessful
(later/long term) attempts to get parts from Getrag, and have an
aftermarket
company IMPROVE our transaxles. Metric Mechanic does it for
BMW Getrags and
promised they would for us too; so you may recall that with
donations from a
bunch of people we acquired a transaxle for them to tear
apart/experiment
on, and a member volunteered/sent his actual trans to be the
first real
"Super Getrag" for us...but Metric Mechanic dragged their feet,
never did do
a thing for us except ship the trans to one of his buddies who
has sat on it
since. After all that I was pretty disappointed and sort
of gave up the
gauntlet.
Fortunately for us all, Bob Fontana picked it up
and socked them all in the
eye with it until they said "OK" :)
Jack
T.
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: transmission
parts
> Jack ---- what broke the log jam on the Getrag parts. Were you
involved
> in that ??? I heard Bob Fontanas name bandied about --- whoever
was
> involved should be
congratulated.
> Jim
berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:21:38
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: transmission parts
Thanks Bob F, now when we will start
to see the influx of the new blood? an
have we gotten Kormex involved
as far as making improvements based of off
unmolested molds?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: xwing [SMTP:xwing@wi.rr.com]
>
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 6:22 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: transmission parts
>
> The logjam was broken
by Bob Fontana!
> He built up some steam and got to writing letters,
calling Mitsu, Getrag
> etc
> and they were finally of a mind to DO
something for a change! I had burnt
> out about a year ago after
long and successful (initially) but
> unsuccessful
> (later/long
term) attempts to get parts from Getrag, and have an
> aftermarket
>
company IMPROVE our transaxles. Metric Mechanic does it for BMW
Getrags
> and
> promised they would for us too; so you may recall
that with donations from
> a
> bunch of people we acquired a
transaxle for them to tear apart/experiment
> on, and a member
volunteered/sent his actual trans to be the first real
> "Super Getrag"
for us...but Metric Mechanic dragged their feet, never did
> do
> a
thing for us except ship the trans to one of his buddies who has sat on
>
it
> since. After all that I was pretty disappointed and sort of
gave up the
> gauntlet.
> Fortunately for us all, Bob Fontana picked
it up and socked them all in
> the
> eye with it until they said
"OK" :)
> Jack T.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:55:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: Brake clearances
Jeff -- Don't forget to check the dust
shield. Sometimes you will run
over loose rocks and it will chip this
just enough to where it is
touching the rotor. It should create a
constant sound like having a
rock between the dust shield and the rotor
(quite annoying and
embarrassing I might add).
Then again, this would
wear through in a matter of months so I don't
know what your 4-year noise
is. But the above is another reason to
remove the dust shields for
track events or where you might drive
through a gravel trap. No dust
shield does not let any rocks get up in
there and scratch stuff.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSent:
Monday, April 22, 2002 16:50
If it's the same noise, mines been
doing that for about 4 years now. It
seems to be more prevalent when it's
warmer outside, and never changes
pitch. It usually occurs between 25 and 45
mph. However, when I hit the
brakes, it stops. And if I acellerate moderately
hard, it stops. I've
replaced the rotors and pads since the noise started,
and it's still
there.
So I'm thinking has has something to do with the
wheel bearing, and
seems
to be on the left rear side only. But apparently
it's not hurting
anything,
just annoying.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:25:40
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL wants to die after warming up
Well, I
finally got the fuel filter replaced but it didn't cure the
symptoms: today
the car drove beautifully the 32 miles to work with the
ac on the last 1/3,
approximately 72deg.F. outside (a coolfront here in
Houston).
But, on the way home the outside temp was over 90deg.F and I
was cruising on
the highway about 25mi around 75-90 as traffic
permitted. I was
exiting and as I got to the light it stopped right
after putting it in
neutral before a complete stop. Turned ac off (was
on all the way) and
started it and it died again, I had to give it gas
with the clutch partially
in to keep it running and gradually let out
the clutch, must have some safety
mode to keep it from dieing while
driving (55-70) or while rpm's are up but
at the lights it would die
when I got to 2nd-1st gear or
stopping. Any ideas? I used to have
this problem with
my s$%**% Merkur XR4TI but that was a Ford and it
turned out to be the
distributer, but does this car even have a
distributor? This is the SL
(non-turbo). No codes, only the 61 right
front shock/strut
code. Thanks for any help guys, guess I'll have to
drive the turbo
Buick tomorrow.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:17:06
-0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:
cooling engine
Now that worries me! I just installed a 5" thick core and
was pretty much
guaranteed that the airflow will be somewhat hampered but not
much. I guess
we will find out.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
xwing [mailto:xwing@wi.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 2:41 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Re: cooling engine
My 94 with FMIC had temps into the red zone,
though never actually boiled
over, while at Road America this last weekend at
15-20 psi boost. It was
33-42 F (cold!) outside. Ran with heater
on full after that, which took it
down to 1-2 notches below red
usually. I plan to work on the air management
at the front of the car
to assure it is routed through/not around the
radiator/IC, and probably a
bigger/aluminum radiator too sometime.
I don't recall seeing it in the red
zone with sidemount IC's but never
stared at the heat gauge before either
;)
JT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:31:54
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
data logger
Hi Ann and everyone else,
Well, unfortunately, and
fortunately, I selected the lucky winner from
the first 3 responses by
pulling from a hat. So, the Logger is no
longer available. If
for some reason, the winner becomes a loser, then
I'm sure you all will be
the first to find out.
Thanks
Damon
Ann Koch wrote:
> I
would love to buy your data logger. I rode with you at Sears Point so
> I want to convince you to sell it to me and not to someone
else.--ann
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:28:59
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: RX7
turbo; was Team3S: advantages
Rare perhaps, but much more attendance than
3S cars.
There are usually 3-5 at every event I go to in SOCAL, and over 20
showed up
at Laguna last year.
For the money, I think they were the
best 'race' car built for the street.
Ever.
Still not sure why I don't
have one for the track.
Maybe it's cause my wife would leave
me?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 7:18
PM
To:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netCc: Kian
Habib;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
Nope.
Best sticking RWD car ive been
in. And its independant rear..no solid
axle.
Torsen LSD is
nice.
Ive not once gotten the rear end out, and ive tried.
16x8s
up front with 245s, and 17x10s in the rear with 275s...the other rx7
paople
get a laugh out of it, until they go for a ride.
The RX7s are very
thin at the events..sadly enough.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:39:07
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: RX7
turbo; was Team3S: advantages
The TT RX-7s came with 10" rear wheels
stock or were yours aftermarket?
Cuz if you could get 10" wheels, an
intake and exhaust for $150, I
want to find out what else they've got off
the back of that truck!!!
Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> Rare perhaps,
but much more attendance than 3SI cars.
> There are usually 3-5 at every
event I go to in SOCAL, and over 20 showed up
> at Laguna last
year.
>
> For the money, I think they were the best 'race' car
built for the street.
> Ever.
> Still not sure why I don't have one
for the track.
>
> Maybe it's cause my wife would leave me?
>
Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:37:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: RX7 turbo; was Team3S: advantages
They are custom CCW 3pc alum
wheels.
Of course..it'll tear it up almost as easily on the stock
rears..id get
more turning, but a tad more oversteer too.
On Mon, 22
Apr 2002, Damon Rachell wrote:
> The TT RX-7s came with 10" rear
wheels stock or were yours aftermarket?
> Cuz if you could
get 10" wheels, an intake and exhaust for $150, I
> want to find out what
else they've got off the back of that truck!!!
>
> Zobel, Kurt
wrote:
>
> > Rare perhaps, but much more attendance than 3SI
cars.
> > There are usually 3-5 at every event I go to in SOCAL, and
over 20 showed up
> > at Laguna last year.
> >
> >
For the money, I think they were the best 'race' car built for the
street.
> > Ever.
> > Still not sure why I don't have one for
the track.
> >
> > Maybe it's cause my wife would leave
me?
> > Kurt
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 23:05:52
EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: sort of OT: Nation-wide network for salvage yards
Anybody know of
a good nation-wide network for salvage yards? Perhaps a 1-800
number or
internet site? I am in need of a front bumper for my girlfriend's
95 Ford
Escort and there are none here in Wichita, KS. Who knows, I might
need
something for the VR-4 someday.
Thanks,
Paul Klusman
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:22:14
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: sort of OT: Nation-wide network for salvage yards
I don't
know of a nationwide network, but M&S Recycling up in San Francisco
specializes in eclipses and 3000GTs and they ship at a decent price. I've
had real good luck getting turbos from them, and plan on getting a 1st gen rear
end, and maybe a few other parts. But I'd definately recommend
them.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 23:53:13
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: sort of OT: Nation-wide network for salvage yards
Paul,
At
least scan through the Team3S website before asking the whole world.
http://team3s.com/FAQpartsupply.htmPhilip
At
23:05 4/22/2002,
Klusmanp@aol.com
wrote:
>Anybody know of a good nation-wide network for salvage yards?
Perhaps a 1-800
>number or internet site? I am in need of a front bumper
for my girlfriend's
>95 Ford Escort and there are none here in Wichita,
KS. Who knows, I might
>need something for the VR-4
someday.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul Klusman
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 23:10:15
-0500
From: "echeek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: turbo leak
That sounds like what I have. And mine blows a
little smoke when under full
acceleration. Just for reference mine has about
135,000 miles on it. And it
looks like just the rear turbo is leaking right
now. I pulled the IC pipes
off both, the front one looks perfectly clean, but
the rear has a little oil
in it. Guess its time for a new set of turbos ....
sooo which ones. I plan
on getting something close to stock to replace them
with.
Eric C. 92 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Mike & Cathy
Sent:
Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:45 PM
To: team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject: Team3S:
turbo leak
How much of a oil leak in the turbos would it take to cause
smoke out the
exhaust? I don't get any smoke until I put a load on the
turbos. There is a
small residue around the rear rubber seal on the back
turbo and in the IC
tube from the rear turbo. Turbos seem to spool up okay
with power.
Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:13:44
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Car
FAX VIN Report!
Everyone,
Can anyone please do me a favor and run
these two VINs for
me:
JH2KF0106HK200863
JT2AL21E0B2239968
Sorry to bother
everyone. Please respond off-list to
mraicu@wayne.edu .
If it's possible, you
can send me the HTML file.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:58:51
-0400
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Re: Re: Team3S: low boost
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>>
Roman, thanks for the info but that hasn't cured my
>> problem, hot or
cold still only 5lbs. I put it back
>> to the stock boost controller
(5lbs). Blitz
>> controller (5lbs).
>
>Disconnect the line
from your boost controller to the
>wastegates and carefully accelerate
and see if you get
>more than 5 psi of boost. If you do, then your boost
>controller(s) are hooked up wrong or not functioning
>properly.
>
>Also make sure that the signal hose from your
blowoff
>valve is properly hooked up to the manifold pressure
>line on top of the throttle body. If it isn't, it'll
>leak tons
of boost out back into the intake.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
Matt thanks alot for that suggestion.
I disconected
the stock wastegate controller located on the firewall. I Pulled out the bottom
vacume line that goes to the H connector and the car stared to boost like crazy.
I ofcourse did not let it go pass 15-17psi with my heavy foot. But when I hooked
up the line back it had the same issue it would not boost pass 5-7psi. Then when
I let the car sit for 1 hour (Cooled it down) it started to boost fine to
10-11psi.
Conclusion: Is it my stock boost controller "Wastegate
solenoid Valve" that is bad? If it is I have Apexi AVC-R comming in this
week, hopefully that would solve everything. I just do not want the AVC-R to
have the same issue that the stock boost controller did it would boost 4-5psi
higher (OVERBOOST 18-20psi) when the car is cool/warm and back to
normal when it is hot? Will that be the issue also?
Roman G. 94
VR-4
Gutted Precats/ Engine rebuild @ AAM rated over 1000HP.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 11:12:05
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Re: Re: Team3S: low boost
Roman, are you on stock injectors? If
so set up the AVC-R for .95KG
due to the fact the car will slightly over
boost with the Apexi unit. Also
if you need any suggestions for
settings let me know.
> Matt thanks alot for that suggestion.
>
> I disconected the stock wastegate controller located on the firewall.
I
> Pulled out the bottom vacume line that goes to the H connector and the
car
> stared to boost like crazy. I ofcourse did not let it go pass
15-17psi
> with my heavy foot. But when I hooked up the line back it had
the same
> issue it would not boost pass 5-7psi. Then when I let the car
sit for 1
> hour (Cooled it down) it started to boost fine to 10-11psi.
>
> Conclusion: Is it my stock boost controller "Wastegate
solenoid Valve"
> that is bad? If it is I have Apexi AVC-R comming
in this week, hopefully
> that would solve everything. I just do not want
the AVC-R to have the same
> issue that the stock boost controller did it
would boost 4-5psi higher
> (OVERBOOST 18-20psi) when the car
is cool/warm and back to normal when
> it is hot? Will that be the
issue also?
>
> Roman G. 94 VR-4
> Gutted Precats/ Engine
rebuild @ AAM rated over 1000HP.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:45:08
-0400
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Idle Air Motor problem
We had a couple of real hot days here in the NE
and my idle air control motor
was getting quite a workout with the AC going
and it finally quit apparently.
The car wouldn't idle any more.
I took
the idle motor out, opened up the casing and spun the stepper mechanism
until
it was fully backed out(fast idle) I then reassembled the motor and
replaced
it. When I started the car again everything was working
beautifully. It started
with a fast idle and as the car warmed up it
worked itself down to normal idle
speeds. Then I went for a drive and
it was working just fine until I hit the
throttle a little. After that
it was back to not idling again.
So looks to me one of two things is
happening here. Either the nipple(hehe) is
getting stuck in the
manifold air passage and the idle motor can't pull it out(hehehe)
or the
motor has seized working in one direction, the opening direction for
increasing
throttle speed. So effectively the mechanism will close all
the way but it won't open.
It's probably impossible to test whether the
nipple is getting stuck, but does anybody
know how to test the motor's
operation once it's removed from the car?
Has anybody else experienced
this?
The part# for the Air control motor is MD628053 but I'd hate
to pay the $248 mitsu direct
is asking for it. It's just a little
motor...
thanks in
advance
-Mark Frouhar
95 VR4
85 TA 379 DFI
T56
http://www.geocities.com/Legoland0***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:11:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle Air Motor problem
is this the ISC - Idle Servo
Controller? if so, I have tested the one for
the Eclipse out of the car
- I think it was just connecting it to 12V DC,
but there should be a test
procedure in the service manual ...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Mark Frouhar [SMTP:mfrouhar@bear.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, April 23, 2002 12:45 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Idle Air Motor problem
>
> The part# for the Air
control motor is MD628053 but I'd hate to pay the
> $248 mitsu
direct
> is asking for it. It's just a little
motor...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:07:39
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Iridium (Denso vs NGK) compared to Splitfire
It is time to
replace my spark plugs, and I am looking to get the Denso Iridium plugs that
everyone keeps raving about.
I had previously used Splitfire Triple Platinum,
and they worked great.
But when I was looking for Iridium plugs, I was
surprised when I actually found two, Denso Iridium and NGK Iridium
IX.
Anyone know what the difference between the two and which would be
better ?
Also, what part number and gap would be best for my car in it's
current state of modification ? Check out my car here for
more
information:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htmThanks
all
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 15:14:13
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Iridium (Denso vs NGK) compared to Splitfire
The Denso
Iridiums are part# 5304, my local shop seems to be having
difficulty keeping
them in stock long enough for me to stop in and buy them
:/ First time
their supplier shorted them, second time they sold them to a
300ZXTT, and
they just ordered them for a third time so I can only hope
and
pray.
As for the NGK's I don't have a part number yet.
Russ
F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Anthony Melillo
[SMTP:anthonymelillo3@comcast.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 3:08
PM
> To: 3000GT List Submissions; Team 3S List Submissions
>
Subject: Team3S: Iridium (Denso vs NGK) compared to Splitfire
>
>
It is time to replace my spark plugs, and I am looking to get the Denso
>
Iridium plugs that everyone keeps raving about.
> I had previously used
Splitfire Triple Platinum, and they worked great.
>
> But when I
was looking for Iridium plugs, I was surprised when I actually
> found
two, Denso Iridium and NGK Iridium IX.
>
> Anyone know what the
difference between the two and which would be better
> ?
>
>
Also, what part number and gap would be best for my car in it's current
>
state of modification ? Check out my car here for more
>
information:
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm>
> Thanks all
> Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 12:16:34
-0700
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Iridium (Denso vs NGK) compared to Splitfire
On Tue, Apr 23, 2002,
Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
wrote:
>
> Also, what part number and gap would be best for my car
in it's current
> state of modification ? Check out my car here for
more information:
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htmI
ordered the Denso Iridium Plugs from the online store at
http://www.densoiridium.com
webpage. They are about $11.95 each + shipping.
The part number for the
stock heat range is IK20 (0.044"). You may want to go
one range cooler
at IK22 (0.032")
> Thanks all Anthony
Melillo
*******************************************************************************
It
appears Lt. Commander Worf is quite adamant about his
solitude.
-- Data, "The Icarus Factor", stardate
42686.4
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:49:57
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: HELP: 1994 3000gt SL wants to die at low rpm when hot
I only got
one response on this, I guess it could be anything fuel
related?
Can anyone offer me any suggestions? The fuel filter looked fine
(after
100,000 miles). One bad fuel injector wouldn't have this symptom
as
it runs fine most of the time, right now I am hearing to check the
fuel
pump. I guess I will start there but it would be nice to
have more to go
on. Thanks ahead of time,
Bob
RJM
wrote:
> Well, I finally got the fuel filter replaced but it didn't
cure the
> symptoms: today the car drove beautifully the 32 miles to work
with the
> ac on the last 1/3, approximately 72deg.F. outside (a coolfront
here in
> Houston). But, on the way home the outside temp was
over 90deg.F and I
> was cruising on the highway about 25mi around 75-90
as traffic
> permitted. I was exiting and as I got to the
light it stopped right
> after putting it in neutral before a complete
stop. Turned ac off (was
> on all the way) and started it and it
died again, I had to give it gas
> with the clutch partially in to keep it
running and gradually let out
> the clutch, must have some safety mode to
keep it from dieing while
> driving (55-70) or while rpm's are up but at
the lights it would die
> when I got to 2nd-1st gear or
stopping. Any ideas? I used to have
> this problem
with my s$%**% Merkur XR4TI but that was a Ford and it
> turned out to be
the distributer, but does this car even have a
> distributor? This
is the SL (non-turbo). No codes, only the 61 right
> front
shock/strut code. Thanks for any help guys, guess I'll have to
>
drive the turbo Buick tomorrow.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#820
***************************************