Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, April 21
2002 Volume 01 : Number
818
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 Apr 2002 13:35:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: <
stealth202@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vin Number Question
I need to do a background check on my stealth
where do I go to do this.(california)
If somebody knows how to do this on
the web. The Vin# is JB3XE74C6NY039649 e-mail your results of list.
Kris
92 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 19:54:25
-0500
From: "Dave and Rebecca Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shockproof Light
Has anyone run Redline Shockproof Light the
their transfer case? I usaully
run Shockproof Heavy, but since all my
driving is open track with no hard
launching, I'm thinking Shockproof Light
would be sufficient.
Regards,
Dave T/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 20:24:49
-0500
From: "Dave and Rebecca Trent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 7 yrs. and I'm still impressed
A few things that set our cars
apart:
- -Oil drain and filter are easy to get to
- -Oil filter
installs vertically
- -Oil fill is designed to screw in oil bottle
-
-transaxle drain and fill plugs are the same size
- -front wheel hubs can be
removed as a sub-assembly
- -wheel alignment adjustments are easy to get
to
- -big rubber grommet in the fire wall for mods (from the factory no
less)
I'm sure there are many others. For those reluctant to turn a
wrench on
these cars, you're missing out on one of the most thoughtfully
designed cars
I've ever had the pleasure to work on. By comparison, My
wife's Audi A4
seems to have been designed my morons. Our next A4
replacement will
hopefully be an EVO
7.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 18:58:43
-0700 (PDT)
From: Kian Habib <
ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
looking to buy VR4
Hi I live in the Boston area and I am looking to buy
a
94 or above VR-4 preferably red or black with 18
chromes. I'm planning
on buying in the next month or
so. If anyone is selling anything or knows
anyone who
is please e-mail me! Thank you very much.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 21:16:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
came across a 1999 base model.
Dealer asking $21k.
Car has 29,000 miles, and no blemishes to speak of.
Take a look:
http://www.geocities.com/glenn_amy/HisAndHers.jpgOk,
worth $21k? NADA comes in lower, and Kelly
higher.
Another
Question. has SOHC engine. I didn't know
that the 3kgt ever had a
SOHC engine? Anyone know the
specs?
Thanks much,
Glenn
'93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 23:26:48
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
Honestly, pretty pathetic when compared
to most other 3/S... 161 HP...
SOHC's were in 97-99 base model
3000's... (not trying t o put down the
SOHC guys, its just a
fact...)
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of glenn amy
Sent: Saturday,
April 20, 2002 11:16 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
came across a 1999 base model.
Dealer asking $21k.
Car has 29,000 miles, and no blemishes to speak of.
Take a look:
http://www.geocities.com/glenn_amy/HisAndHers.jpgOk,
worth $21k? NADA comes in lower, and Kelly
higher.
Another
Question. has SOHC engine. I didn't know
that the 3kgt ever had a
SOHC engine? Anyone know the
specs?
Thanks much,
Glenn
'93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 23:31:34
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 7 yrs. and I'm still impressed
True, I'm rebuilding my
'91 R/T TT now and I've been impressed with how
straightforward the car
is. I have to say though, the EASIEST (sports) car
I've ever worked on
was my '85 Mazda RX-7.....those engineers KNEW what they
were doing when they
designed those cars...they were designed with
maintenance in mind. The
worst? My girlfriends '98 Chevy Cavalier....I'd
love to get my hands
around the necks of the A-holes that designed that
P.O.S.
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI
#0499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St.
Louis, MO
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave and Rebecca Trent"
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 20, 2002 8:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: 7 yrs. and I'm still
impressed
> A few things that set our cars apart:
>
> -Oil
drain and filter are easy to get to
> -Oil filter installs
vertically
> -Oil fill is designed to screw in oil bottle
>
-transaxle drain and fill plugs are the same size
> -front wheel hubs can
be removed as a sub-assembly
> -wheel alignment adjustments are easy to
get to
> -big rubber grommet in the fire wall for mods (from the factory
no less)
>
> I'm sure there are many others. For those
reluctant to turn a wrench on
> these cars, you're missing out on one of
the most thoughtfully designed
cars
> I've ever had the pleasure to
work on. By comparison, My wife's Audi A4
> seems to have been
designed my morons. Our next A4 replacement will
> hopefully be an
EVO 7.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:00:28
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Car wont start help needed
martin-
keep this in mind:
when
there's a leak in the fuel system, especially near the fuel pump assembly, the
fuel will absorb the nearby bits of iron and aluminum and cause the pump to
short circuit. this will blow the 15A fuse marked "engine" in the fuse box
underneath the driver side console. check this fuse! not checking it made me
easte about $300 in unnecessary parts. there's also a number of other things
that can blow this fuse out. a short just about anywhere in the fuel or ignition
system can cause it. if the fuse blows, the ECU will stop sending voltage to the
MFI relay which stops sending voltage to the fuel pump. if i remember correctly,
it stops spark as well.
to answer your first question:
yes. you
can jump the fuel pump directly at the wiring harness that connects to it. there
is a solid + and - ... now that's the tough part, because if i explain it wrong,
you might screw up the circuit in the pump assembly. usually, the pump doesn't
go bad, but the assembly does. if I can get my hands on a d-camera then I'll see
if i can take some shots.
to answer your second question:
the
multiport fuel injection relay is located in the passenger compartment on the
passenger side. you need to take off the carpet just to the right of the
gearbox.
the fuel pump relay is located underneath the stock air intake
assembly. if you intake is not stock, then it should be bolted down or tied down
nearby, unless you left it hanging. i think it's a five conductor relay with a
rubber protector cover. there is a small slit on one side of this cover, and
this slit is designed to make it fit snugly in a tab underneath the stock air
intake. i'll confirm this tomorrow when i take my baby for a weekend
spin.
until then, best of luck.
riyan
93 stealth rt
tt
stock
stock
unbelievably stock!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: martin [mailto:martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk]
Sent:
Saturday, April 20, 2002 9:30 AM
To: Riyan Mynuddin
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car wont start help needed
Hi Riyan
Thanks for the reply,
I dont
appear to have any leaks, but having looked at the picture on Jeffs
site of
the connector to test the fuel pump, i dont have the same
connector
anywhere.
I have looked all over and cannot see anything even
similar. mine is a Jap
import 3000GTO so may not have it.
Is there another
way to test the pump?
Do you know the location of the fuel pump
relay?
Regards
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:12:06
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: low boost
Other things to look for are clogged pre-cats or main
cat. These will have
a great impact on turbo spooling.
Also, go
to Jeff Lucius' site for info on how to build an intake
pressure
tester. Build one for about $10 of parts from Home Depot, then
have your
mechanic use it to check for leaks.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 19, 2002 9:18 AM
Subject: Team3S: low boost
> Ive
still got problems with the boost. I took the car to the local
>
dealership here in Bakersfield. They have a guy thats pretty
knowledgeable
> with our cars, he worked on it all day yesterday, and were
still not
exactly
> sure whats wrong. We by passed the waste gates and
only got 7lbs of boost.
> With everything hooked up it will only generate
5lbs, but they just will
not
> spool up. weve checked all the vaccum
lines the intercooler pipes, timing
> etc. it all seems fine. So Im
thinking its turbo time. The motor has about
> 80,000 miles but the turbos
have 120,000. They don't smoke, I just don't
> what else it could be. By
the way isn't there a group buy going on for
> turbos right now? And my
next question is which ones. The mods Ive done so
> far is K&N filter,
Stillen down pipe, Borla exhaust, turbo xs BOV, Blitz
> SBCID, Magnecor
100mm wires, Iridium Denso Plugs, Intrax Lowering springs,
> Supra fuel
pump, Strut bar front. Im not ready to take it to the track yet
> (need to
get to the brakes). But I drive the car pretty much everyday, so
I
>
want it to be reliable. I was thinking the 13Gs. Thanks for your
help.
>
> Pete,
> 91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 01:20:39
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
The only attractive thing about this
car is that now it is only 3 years
old. But in two years it will be just
another 5+ year old car with an
underpowered engine. I'd get an earlier year
low mileage V6 for less money.
It will last longer, hold value better, be
easier to sell, and more
pleasurable to drive.
Philip
At 00:26
4/21/2002, cody wrote:
>Honestly, pretty pathetic when compared to most
other 3/S... 161 HP...
>SOHC's were in 97-99 base model
3000's... (not trying t o put down the
>SOHC guys, its just a
fact...)
>
>-Cody
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
>Of glenn amy
>Sent:
Saturday, April 20, 2002 11:16 PM
>To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
>
>came across a 1999 base
model. Dealer asking $21k.
>Car has 29,000 miles, and no blemishes
to speak of.
>Take a
look:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/glenn_amy/HisAndHers.jpg
>
>Ok,
worth $21k? NADA comes in lower, and
Kelly
>higher.
>
>Another Question. has SOHC
engine. I didn't know
>that the 3kgt ever had a SOHC engine?
Anyone know the
>specs?
>
>Thanks much,
>
>Glenn
'93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 01:30:42
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 7 yrs. and I'm still impressed
My Neon friend came recently to
help bleed the brakes and was prepared to
break off rusty bleeders and start
drilling them out and removing them,
etc. He was ABSOLUTELY MAD when he saw
those protective rubber bleeder caps
with tiny skirts that cover the
bleeder's threads. No rust at all and no
need to sweat trying to undo
them!
Philip
At 21:24 4/20/2002, Dave and Rebecca Trent
wrote:
>A few things that set our cars apart:
>
>-Oil drain
and filter are easy to get to
>-Oil filter installs vertically
>-Oil
fill is designed to screw in oil bottle
>-transaxle drain and fill plugs
are the same size
>-front wheel hubs can be removed as a
sub-assembly
>-wheel alignment adjustments are easy to get to
>-big
rubber grommet in the fire wall for mods (from the factory no
less)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 01:55:02
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"glenn amy" <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
> came
across a 1999 base model. Dealer asking $21k. Car has 29,000
miles,
and no blemishes to speak of. Take a look:
http://www.geocities.com/glenn_amy/HisAndHers.jpg>
Ok, worth $21k? NADA comes in lower, and Kelly higher
> Another
Question. has SOHC engine. I didn't know that the 3kgt ever had
a
SOHC engine? Anyone know the specs?
> Thanks much,
> Glenn '93
VR-4
- ---------------------------------------------->
97-99 3KGT
Base Models were SOHC, 161 HP. Specs and Prices are both in the
Team3S
FAQ Pages (Basics Section). Here's our specs Page:
www.Team3S.com/FAQ-Specs1.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:48:11
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Please act : Ignition wire resistance measuring
Today I was
searching for good wires forthe new coils and runned into the
resistance
specification of them. I finally found myself confused about the
specs and
went out with my Ohm-Meter to measure what I already have around.
The results
where interesting :
- - Stock wires (9 years old but in good shape) :
5600 Ohm/feet
- - Magnecore wires (about 3 years old) : 6700 Ohm/feet (specs
: 2200
Ohm/feet)
- - Accel 8.8 silicone graphite (never used) : 3700
Ohm/feet (specs : 500
Ohm/feet)
BTW, the manual says that the
resistance should not be more than 22 kOhms
max (I guess it means overall
lenght of the longest cable)
Interestingly the Magnecore have an even
higher resistance than the stock
ones but this is not a big deal as the
difference in voltage loss per feet
is low (around 2.2% with current flow of
1 A). But of course, the longer the
wire the higher the loss. As the wires to
the rear bank are much longer than
the front one may come to the conclusion
that the ignition in the rear bank
is less good that in the front. Assuming
that the wires are 2 foot this
would mean that we have a loss of 27.8 % of
voltage in the rear. Not good
for sure as instead of the 48'000V there are
only 34'600V at the plug. This
of course doesn't affect spark duration but
may effect the hight of the
spark amplitude (easier said : the spark is not
that strong). Interesting
point : Magnecor wires do not perform better that
stock.
Now a low resistance wire would help but it seems that the
manufacturers
simply lie ! The Magnecores are 3 times worser than advertised
and the Accel
8.8 more than 7 times worser than the specs say. Now I wonder
how good the
promises of Accel Thundersport wires are (spec 150 Ohm/feet) or
the MSD
claiming only 40-50 Ohms/feet or others like Jacobs, NGK and more .
It seems
that their measurnment way is done under the best of the best
conditions to
get those results and are not compatible with the real
world.
For more interesting findings, I'd like to compile a chart
together that
includes as much as possible informations from the different
manufactures
and maybe also the age of the wires. If possible please pull the
longest
wire in the front or measure a spare that you have around. Measure
the
lenght from the middle of the coil boot to the top of the plug boot in
feet.
Now measure the resistance from boot-connector to connector and devide
the
resistance by the measureed lenght to get the Ohm/feet. Please send me
your
measurnments privately or post them here for discussion. I wonder what
the
results will be :))
Thanks in advance
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:43:37
+0100
From: "martin" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car wont start help needed
Yippee my car is running
again.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my plea.
Especially Jeff Lucius
and Riyan who pointed me in the right direction.
It turned out to be the fuel
pump relay under the air box.
I took it apart and it was completley rusted
inside.
When i get a replacment i will be making sure it is watertight
before
closing the hood.
Once again thanks for all the advice from
everyone.
Cheers
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 09:17:29
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: low boost
Absolutely right about clogged cats. Not only may it
affect boost, but it
can cause engine overheating as well. I just replaced
the cat on my BMW and
it fixed a two year old problem of constant overheating
in traffic. Great
advice.
Andy----- Original Message -----
From:
"Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
To: "Pete"
<
pbozanich@hotmail.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 20, 2002 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: low boost
>
Other things to look for are clogged pre-cats or main cat. These
will
have
> a great impact on turbo spooling.
>
> Also, go
to Jeff Lucius' site for info on how to build an intake pressure
>
tester. Build one for about $10 of parts from Home Depot, then have
your
> mechanic use it to check for leaks.
>
> Good
luck,
> Ken
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 9:18 AM
> Subject: Team3S: low
boost
>
> > Ive still got problems with the boost. I took the car
to the local
> > dealership here in Bakersfield. They have a guy thats
pretty
knowledgeable
> > with our cars, he worked on it all day
yesterday, and were still not
> exactly
> > sure whats wrong. We
by passed the waste gates and only got 7lbs of
boost.
> > With
everything hooked up it will only generate 5lbs, but they just will
>
not
> > spool up. weve checked all the vaccum lines the intercooler
pipes,
timing
> > etc. it all seems fine. So Im thinking its turbo
time. The motor has
about
> > 80,000 miles but the turbos have
120,000. They don't smoke, I just don't
> > what else it could be. By
the way isn't there a group buy going on for
> > turbos right now? And
my next question is which ones. The mods Ive done
so
> > far is
K&N filter, Stillen down pipe, Borla exhaust, turbo xs BOV, Blitz
>
> SBCID, Magnecor 100mm wires, Iridium Denso Plugs, Intrax
Lowering
springs,
> > Supra fuel pump, Strut bar front. Im not ready
to take it to the track
yet
> > (need to get to the brakes). But I
drive the car pretty much everyday,
so
> I
> > want it to be
reliable. I was thinking the 13Gs. Thanks for your help.
> >
>
> Pete,
> > 91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:42:00
-0500
From: "Matt Costanza" <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
Exactly. No matter how good the car
looks, the base model is still a very
under powered car. The base model
carries the same amount of weight as the
SL. The VR4 is a bit heavier due to
the all wheel drive.
Look for a SL or a VR4. You will be much happier
with the performance.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx
USA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Philip V. Glazatov <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday, April
21, 2002 12:20 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
>
The only attractive thing about this car is that now it is only 3 years
>
old. But in two years it will be just another 5+ year old car with an
>
underpowered engine. I'd get an earlier year low mileage V6 for
less
money.
> It will last longer, hold value better, be easier to
sell, and more
> pleasurable to drive.
>
>
Philip
>
> At 00:26 4/21/2002, cody wrote:
> >Honestly,
pretty pathetic when compared to most other 3/S... 161 HP...
>
>SOHC's were in 97-99 base model 3000's... (not trying t o put down
the
> >SOHC guys, its just a fact...)
> >
>
>-Cody
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> >Of glenn amy
>
>Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 11:16 PM
> >To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Team3S: Questions 1999 base model
> >
> >came
across a 1999 base model. Dealer asking $21k.
> >Car has 29,000
miles, and no blemishes to speak of.
> >Take a look:
>
>
> >http://www.geocities.com/glenn_amy/HisAndHers.jpg
>
>
> >Ok, worth $21k? NADA comes in lower, and Kelly
>
>higher.
> >
> >Another Question. has SOHC
engine. I didn't know
> >that the 3kgt ever had a SOHC
engine? Anyone know the
> >specs?
> >
> >Thanks
much,
> >
> >Glenn '93 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:43:50
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please act : Ignition wire resistance measuring
Magnacor
presents quite a different conclusion regarding high-voltage
conduction in
spark plug wires.
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Please act :
Ignition wire resistance measuring
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:48:11
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
<snip>
BTW,
the manual says that the resistance should not be more than 22 kOhms
max (I
guess it means overall lenght of the longest
cable)
<snip>
Interesting point : Magnecor wires do not perform
better that stock.
<snip>
Now a low resistance wire would help
but it seems that the manufacturers
simply lie ! The Magnecores are 3 times
worser than advertised and the Accel
8.8 more than 7 times worser than the
specs say.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:17:27
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please act : Ignition wire resistance measuring
Yes, I
already know their position like all other (damn I read a looong
time). Just
read Nologys article about the capacitors in their wire and
others. The skin
effect is true on all wires but it of course depends on how
it is built. But
even then the resistance is not what they say and this is
what I want to find
out.
IMHO, the wires should be checked by measuring the energy sent by
the plug
but this is close to impossible to do. An Ameter would help to
measure the
current indicated in the wire while driving but this also
isn't very
practical as the caliper must be placed close to the
plug.
A low resistance wire supports the lenght of the pulse but of
course another
maker also tells a different story. Fact is that on low
resistance wires,
surpressing the noise is more difficult and a lot must be
done to minimize
it. Therefore I wonder if the companies tellign to have
40-50 ohms are
indeed produce their wires with higher resistance to get rid
of the noise.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 21, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Please act : Ignition
wire resistance measuring
> Magnacor presents quite a different
conclusion regarding high-voltage
> conduction in spark plug
wires.
>
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 12:46:05
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Please act : Ignition wire resistance measuring
The skin effect applies
to all electrical transmission and is determined
by the frequency of the
transmission --- even AC distribution lines
are affected by it's 60 Hz [ 50
in Europe ] frequency. It can be shown
by the use of Maxwell's field
equations that all electrical power is carried
in the magnetic fields
surrounding the wires.
I have no idea how this affects our sparkplug
wires nor do I know how the
DC component of it's electrical resistance affect
our ignition.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>The
skin effect is true on all wires but it of course depends on how
> it is
built. But even then the resistance is not what they say and this is
>
what I want to find out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:51:38
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Please act : Ignition wire resistance measuring
This is
facinating reading folks. (No kidding)
A search for "skin effect" on
google produces a slew of listings. Look at:
http://www.its.bldrdoc.gov/fs-1037/dir-033/_4923.htmhttp://sprott.physics.wisc.edu/pubs/paper149.htmhttp://www.eedesign.com/isd/features/OEG20011205S0076
(specifically on cars)
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm
(specifically on spark plug
wires)
Keep us posted. I am wondering just
how many sparks are generated at, for
instance, 90 miles per hour. The number
would be the frequency for
consideration at that speed. For a fail safe
ignition we would need to
compute at probably about 200 mph so that we would
have a 25% safety margin
over our cars 150 top speed.
Andy
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 21, 2002 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Please act : Ignition
wire resistance measuring
> The skin effect applies to all
electrical transmission and is determined
> by the frequency of the
transmission --- even AC distribution lines
> are affected by it's 60 Hz [
50 in Europe ] frequency. It can be shown
> by the use of Maxwell's field
equations that all electrical power is
carried
> in the magnetic fields
surrounding the wires.
>
> I have no idea how this affects our
sparkplug wires nor do I know how the
> DC component of it's electrical
resistance affect our
ignition.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ==================================================
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
>
>
>The skin effect is true on all wires but it of course depends on how
>
> it is built. But even then the resistance is not what they say and
this
is
> > what I want to find out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#818
***************************************
